NOW OPEN SOURCE!!! swill's plate building tool [builder.swillkb.com]

[swill]

The svg one will probably be helpful with troubleshooting, so thumbs up for that feature!

Is the live preview not good enough for you?  What's the advantage of svg for troubleshooting?

Lets say a person has a question about his rendered plate, he/she could then just supply the link to the svg, which in most (if not all) modern browsers are rendered, without the need to share a picture or actual cad files.
Like so: http://swillkb.s3.amazonaws.com/ad6b6ad9c9fd4f92af48ce29fb72b72b177b7d36/ad6b6ad9c9fd4f92af48ce29fb72b72b177b7d36.svg


Come to think of it, I have a feature suggestion, although it's probably not necessary at all;
When the server is done rendering and the client receives the data, what about changing the path to the actual finished page and linking back to it would display the finished page?
This would allow for sharing a link to a finished plate in the format "builder.swillkb.com/<sha>", and possibly allowing for small modifications for re-rendering, even by other people.
So the link to the plate that I linked the svg for above would look like this: http://builder.swillkb.com/ad6b6ad9c9fd4f92af48ce29fb72b72b177b7d36.
And it would link to this page: http://i.imgur.com/T0c9Pjp.png, with all the parameters in the configure section there as well.

This depends however on how you cache and what data you actually keep on your end, like the parameters.

Ahh. Ya I understand what you meant now.

As for the builder link. Yes, I am planning to do this (maybe even in the next set of changes). It is a little trucker than expected because I want the edit section to be populated as well so someone can look at a linked layout and then do some minor tweaks and re-render.

To do this I have to save all of the source data that built the layout as well as the resulting data. On page load I have to populate all of the edit details with the source data as well as the rendered display.

It is not super hard, but it does take some time and I have not taken the time to implement it yet.

This and adding support for the other layers in the sandwich case are probably going to be the main features of the next release. I think being able to link to your builder layout in the forum is really important for community feedback and development of ideas.

[StinkyTheDonut]

Major Update Released!!!

• Costar Only Stabilizer Support - This has been requested a few times.  This option will help reduce machining costs for people who really only care about Costar stabilizers.

This is great. I was asking around for measurements and planning to take a stab at it myself.
You just saved me from having any amount of brain pain and hair pulling. 
Time to play around with it on your site. Teeheehee 

[swill]

Now you just need to add Cherry-only stabilizer support.

I guess I should have mentioned that earlier, huh? The main reason for eliminating the costar cutout on the top is for when you want to use Cherry plate mount stabs. They don't clip into the plate as well if they have those cutouts. Most people want both combined, so they can choose what type of stabilizers to use after the fact.

Done!  Now you have the following stabilizer options (Note: you can mix and match by changing the '_s' param in the raw data, check layout help for details)

• Cherry + Costar
• Cherry Only
• Costar Only

Also, I fixed a bug where values of items that are turned off were still being used.  Thinks like padding, kerf, rounded corners, etc...

[ManOnTheMetalIsland]

Swill, amazing tool, and even greater with the .dxf support. I just want to let you know one little problem I run into.

When I input this data:


It spits out this:


It acts right if I put the top left key back in line with the middle two top keys.

Thanks,
Will

[Dihedral]

Swill, amazing tool, and even greater with the .dxf support. I just want to let you know one little problem I run into.

When I input this data:
(Attachment Link)

It spits out this:
(Attachment Link)

It acts right if I put the top left key back in line with the middle two top keys.

Thanks,
Will

I don't think its programmed for non-standard layouts. Talk nicely to jdcarpe and he might do it for you though.

[ManOnTheMetalIsland]

I don't think its programmed for non-standard layouts. Talk nicely to jdcarpe and he might do it for you though.

I'm sure I could easily put it together in draftsight, I'm just bored at work killing time making different layouts and putting through swill's tool.

[swill]

Swill, amazing tool, and even greater with the .dxf support. I just want to let you know one little problem I run into.

When I input this data:
(Attachment Link)

It spits out this:
(Attachment Link)

It acts right if I put the top left key back in line with the middle two top keys.

Thanks,
Will

I know about this one. I am working on it. Technically I don't yet support non standard layouts, but I am working on adding this support since other people have brought this up too.

[phishy]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

[swill]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

I guess BBS defaults to inches as their UOM.  I don't think I can do anything about that from my size.

[jdcarpe]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

I guess BBS defaults to inches as their UOM.  I don't think I can do anything about that from my size.

You could have an option for making the drawing in inches or mm? Still have the software run all the calculations in metric, but at the end scale everything if inch is selected?

[swill]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

I guess BBS defaults to inches as their UOM.  I don't think I can do anything about that from my size.

You could have an option for making the drawing in inches or mm? Still have the software run all the calculations in metric, but at the end scale everything if inch is selected?

Ya. That is something melvang asked for as well. I would have to change the ui and how the data is collected as well. I am considering it, just have not gotten my head around it just yet. I will look into it.

[swill]

Swill, amazing tool, and even greater with the .dxf support. I just want to let you know one little problem I run into.

When I input this data:
(Attachment Link)

It spits out this:
(Attachment Link)

It acts right if I put the top left key back in line with the middle two top keys.

Thanks,
Will

I fixed this before work today.  I now fully support ergodox style alpha keys (with staggered rows).  I still do not support the ergodox thumb section, but I will slowly get there...



Cheers...

[BigBlueSaw]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

I guess BBS defaults to inches as their UOM.  I don't think I can do anything about that from my size.

R12 DXF files have no units associated with them, so the online quoting system just assumes that they're inches.

Later DXF versions (R2000 and above I think) have a way to set a default unit for the file, so these will come out correctly.

A workaround is to open the file in Librecad and scale everything by a factor of 0.03937, then save the file. Or save as a R2000 DXF with mm units.

[joey]

Have you thought about kerf for wood/MDF?
I think that's cheaper (I may be wrong) to prototype with. So would be a nice option if you want to try layouts without breaking the bank.

[swill]

Have you thought about kerf for wood/MDF?
I think that's cheaper (I may be wrong) to prototype with. So would be a nice option if you want to try layouts without breaking the bank.

Get the kerf value from the shop you plan to get the plate cut with and enter the kerf value in the tool.  By entering a kerf value in the tool it will automatically adjust the cad to account for the kerf.

[swill]

When downloading DFX from the tool, and then directly importing it into BBS to get a quote, it's picking up the plate size in inches instead of MM.  So BBS's site thinks the plate is 326 inches by 107 inches.

I guess BBS defaults to inches as their UOM.  I don't think I can do anything about that from my size.

R12 DXF files have no units associated with them, so the online quoting system just assumes that they're inches.

Later DXF versions (R2000 and above I think) have a way to set a default unit for the file, so these will come out correctly.

A workaround is to open the file in Librecad and scale everything by a factor of 0.03937, then save the file. Or save as a R2000 DXF with mm units.

Ya, I think it defaults to R12...

Do any of these formats support exporting with dimensions?  Do you know?  I will need to figure out how to export in a specific format.

Code: [Select]

DXF AutoCAD-Release format codes:
AC1021  2008, 2007
AC1018  2006, 2005, 2004
AC1015  2002, 2000i, 2000
AC1014  R14, 14.01
AC1012  R13   
AC1009  R12, 11
AC1006  R10   
AC1004  R9   
AC1002  R2.6 
AC1.50  R2.05

The code defaults to this:

Code: [Select]

self.acadver='  9\n$ACADVER\n  1\nAC1009\n'


[phishy]

Alright well my order is placed.  Hopefully we'll be able to confirm that the tool works properly and we can get more folks designing their own plates.  Thanks again swill.

[BigBlueSaw]

I believe unit support starts at R2000.

The file needs to have the header variable $INSUNITS. The group code should be "70"  and value should be "4" for mm.

See this page:
http://www.autodesk.com/techpubs/autocad/acad2000/dxf/header_section_group_codes_dxf_02.htm

[abjr]

I took the DXF from the plate builder and opened it in DraftSight and it was listed as Unitless. I saved it in mm as "R2013 ASCII Drawing (*.dxf)" and it opened fine in BBS.

Code: [Select]

$ACADVER
  1
AC1027
  9


Code: [Select]

$INSUNITS
 70
     4
  9

Great work on this, swill!

[swill]

I took the DXF from the plate builder and opened it in DraftSight and it was listed as Unitless. I saved it in mm as "R2013 ASCII Drawing (*.dxf)" and it opened fine in BBS.

Code: [Select]

$ACADVER
  1
AC1027
  9


Code: [Select]

$INSUNITS
 70
     4
  9

Great work on this, swill!

Thanks for testing that for us. 

[possumgumbo]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

[Dihedral]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

That's strange. I doubt it's related to the actual switch colours, just the different batches of switch housings.

[possumgumbo]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

That's strange. I doubt it's related to the actual switch colours, just the different batches of switch housings.

Grab  a blue and squeeze the sides HARD. The post will be reluctant to pop back up. We tried this with some pliers, and realized that the extra hardware around the post of the blue makes them sensitive to sharp side pressure.

[swill]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

So this is for the sides of the switch opening right?  Do you have a caliper?  Is the resulting opening exactly 14mm as described in the cad?  Maybe when it is 3d printed the tolerances are not perfect?

[swill]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

Do the switches open correctly while clipped into the plate with that cutout?  Any problems there?  Curious because if the switch clipping into the plate is really tight, it may also be a problem for the side wings.

[possumgumbo]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

Do the switches open correctly while clipped into the plate with that cutout?  Any problems there?  Curious because if the switch clipping into the plate is really tight, it may also be a problem for the side wings.

Once I de-burred the edges of the areas that press on the center of the clips, the blues opened fine. This is really an issue with some 3D printers, as they often deposit just a LITTLE too much material as they make a tight corner.

[swill]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

Do the switches open correctly while clipped into the plate with that cutout?  Any problems there?  Curious because if the switch clipping into the plate is really tight, it may also be a problem for the side wings.

Once I de-burred the edges of the areas that press on the center of the clips, the blues opened fine. This is really an issue with some 3D printers, as they often deposit just a LITTLE too much material as they make a tight corner.

Fair enough.  You could potentially specify a negative kerf value and you may be able to counteract that.  Maybe something to try.  I "think" that should work, but I have not tested that concept at all.

[possumgumbo]

Just letting you know that the type 2 cutouts worked perfectly on my 3D printer for MX browns, but they pressed a little too hard on the sides for blues. I had to shave down the little protrusions, as blues are more sensitive to side pressure. Everything turned out beautiful. I'll post a pic when I have access to Imgur.

Do the switches open correctly while clipped into the plate with that cutout?  Any problems there?  Curious because if the switch clipping into the plate is really tight, it may also be a problem for the side wings.

Once I de-burred the edges of the areas that press on the center of the clips, the blues opened fine. This is really an issue with some 3D printers, as they often deposit just a LITTLE too much material as they make a tight corner.

Fair enough.  You could potentially specify a negative kerf value and you may be able to counteract that.  Maybe something to try.  I "think" that should work, but I have not tested that concept at all.

It really wasn't a problem. Just wanted printers to know that you may need to slice the edges of the insets a bit with a pocketknife, or grind them with a small rotary tool to get blues to work optimally. The fit is excellently snug, and with the right supports, you definitely don't need a steel plate.

[sethk_]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

[swill]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

[sethk_]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

Ok, thanks! And yeah, that's what I mean. Should I just open it up on autocad or something and re-export it like you said?

[swill]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

Ok, thanks! And yeah, that's what I mean. Should I just open it up on autocad or something and re-export it like you said?

abjr did it with draftsite. BBS suggested Librecad.  AutoCAD should work fine if you have it. 

[sethk_]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

Ok, thanks! And yeah, that's what I mean. Should I just open it up on autocad or something and re-export it like you said?

abjr did it with draftsite. BBS suggested Librecad.  AutoCAD should work fine if you have it.

I have the student edition, so it should work. Thanks!

[swill]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

Ok, thanks! And yeah, that's what I mean. Should I just open it up on autocad or something and re-export it like you said?

abjr did it with draftsite. BBS suggested Librecad.  AutoCAD should work fine if you have it.

I have the student edition, so it should work. Thanks!

Let us know how it goes.

[sethk_]

Does anyone know where I can get quotes for something in MM? bbs doesn't support MM

By MM, you mean millimeters?  BBS does support mm, but you have to re-export the dxf file with a R2000 or later version of the DXF format in order to include units of measure.  There have been some posts recently about this.

Ok, thanks! And yeah, that's what I mean. Should I just open it up on autocad or something and re-export it like you said?

abjr did it with draftsite. BBS suggested Librecad.  AutoCAD should work fine if you have it.

I have the student edition, so it should work. Thanks!

Let us know how it goes.

It did not fix it, still says length is 107.950 inches.

[sethk_]

I used librecad to fix it, all I had to do was open and resave as a 2010file

[p3lim]

Received a 6u spacebar from a CMStorm QuickFire Ultimate today, they are using completely different stabilizer mounts on it.
Center-to-center is 98mm with the switch mount perfectly in the middle (~43.5mm between the stab mounts and the switch mount, http://i.imgur.com/McryYdA.jpg).

The "normal" (Cherry G80-1800) is either 95.25mm or 96.5mm (I don't know that for sure yet, got conflicting sources), while Signature Plastics might have different mounts.

Anyways, thought this would come in handy.

Edit: Wikified http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions#6_units_.28114mm_wide.2C_3_keymounts.2C_43.5mm_apart.29

[swill]

Received a 6u spacebar from a CMStorm QuickFire Ultimate today, they are using completely different stabilizer mounts on it.
Center-to-center is 98mm with the switch mount perfectly in the middle (~43.5mm between the stab mounts and the switch mount, http://i.imgur.com/McryYdA.jpg).

The "normal" (Cherry G80-1800) is either 95.25mm or 96.5mm (I don't know that for sure yet, got conflicting sources), while Signature Plastics might have different mounts.

Anyways, thought this would come in handy.

Edit: Wikified http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions#6_units_.28114mm_wide.2C_3_keymounts.2C_43.5mm_apart.29

Looking at the image, your measurement is incorrect. What you should document is the center to center distance between the center outside stabilizer. You documented the distance from edge to edge of the posts. It should be from center of MX cutout to center of MX cutout. Make sense?

I hope more of those on the wiki are not wrong because that is the source I used for my stabilizer sizing. :\

[p3lim]

Received a 6u spacebar from a CMStorm QuickFire Ultimate today, they are using completely different stabilizer mounts on it.
Center-to-center is 98mm with the switch mount perfectly in the middle (~43.5mm between the stab mounts and the switch mount, http://i.imgur.com/McryYdA.jpg).

The "normal" (Cherry G80-1800) is either 95.25mm or 96.5mm (I don't know that for sure yet, got conflicting sources), while Signature Plastics might have different mounts.

Anyways, thought this would come in handy.

Edit: Wikified http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions#6_units_.28114mm_wide.2C_3_keymounts.2C_43.5mm_apart.29

Looking at the image, your measurement is incorrect. What you should document is the center to center distance between the center outside stabilizer. You documented the distance from edge to edge of the posts. It should be from center of MX cutout to center of MX cutout. Make sense?

I hope more of those on the wiki are not wrong because that is the source I used for my stabilizer sizing. :\

Updated the wiki to include that too, as well as the total center-to-center between the stabilizer mounts (98mm).

[swill]

Received a 6u spacebar from a CMStorm QuickFire Ultimate today, they are using completely different stabilizer mounts on it.
Center-to-center is 98mm with the switch mount perfectly in the middle (~43.5mm between the stab mounts and the switch mount, http://i.imgur.com/McryYdA.jpg).

The "normal" (Cherry G80-1800) is either 95.25mm or 96.5mm (I don't know that for sure yet, got conflicting sources), while Signature Plastics might have different mounts.

Anyways, thought this would come in handy.

Edit: Wikified http://deskthority.net/wiki/Space_bar_dimensions#6_units_.28114mm_wide.2C_3_keymounts.2C_43.5mm_apart.29

Looking at the image, your measurement is incorrect. What you should document is the center to center distance between the center outside stabilizer. You documented the distance from edge to edge of the posts. It should be from center of MX cutout to center of MX cutout. Make sense?

I hope more of those on the wiki are not wrong because that is the source I used for my stabilizer sizing. :\

Updated the wiki to include that too, as well as the total center-to-center between the stabilizer mounts (98mm).

Cool. . Thx.

[p3lim]

Also a thing to note, Cherry stabilizers don't work work at all with the keycap I got, the stems are smaller (0.1-0.2mm) than the spec, they fit fine in the center mount tho (the switch).
The keycap came with Costar-like mounts on it, and the reason I say Costar-like is because they are not cross (+) shaped, rather a straight bar (|).

[swill]

Also a thing to note, Cherry stabilizers don't work work at all with the keycap I got, the stems are smaller (0.1-0.2mm) than the spec, they fit fine in the center mount tho (the switch).
The keycap came with Costar-like mounts on it, and the reason I say Costar-like is because they are not cross (+) shaped, rather a straight bar (|).

Can you give me a little more detail on what is going on here?  Are you saying that the stabilizer cutouts are wrong for regular keycaps or just a specific set of caps you have?  Do you have pictures maybe?  It is really important that I know about any issues so I can fix them going forward.  I need this to work for the majority of people without them having to think. 

[p3lim]

Also a thing to note, Cherry stabilizers don't work work at all with the keycap I got, the stems are smaller (0.1-0.2mm) than the spec, they fit fine in the center mount tho (the switch).
The keycap came with Costar-like mounts on it, and the reason I say Costar-like is because they are not cross (+) shaped, rather a straight bar (|).

Can you give me a little more detail on what is going on here?  Are you saying that the stabilizer cutouts are wrong for regular keycaps or just a specific set of caps you have?  Do you have pictures maybe?  It is really important that I know about any issues so I can fix them going forward.  I need this to work for the majority of people without them having to think. 

It's nothing for you to worry about, has nothing to do with the plate anyways, it's the stabilizer holes on the keycap, they're too small to fit Cherry stabs.
Just me ranting

[jdcarpe]

Also a thing to note, Cherry stabilizers don't work work at all with the keycap I got, the stems are smaller (0.1-0.2mm) than the spec, they fit fine in the center mount tho (the switch).
The keycap came with Costar-like mounts on it, and the reason I say Costar-like is because they are not cross (+) shaped, rather a straight bar (|).

Can you give me a little more detail on what is going on here?  Are you saying that the stabilizer cutouts are wrong for regular keycaps or just a specific set of caps you have?  Do you have pictures maybe?  It is really important that I know about any issues so I can fix them going forward.  I need this to work for the majority of people without them having to think. 

It's nothing for you to worry about, has nothing to do with the plate anyways, it's the stabilizer holes on the keycap, they're too small to fit Cherry stabs.
Just me ranting

This is why we don't design keyboards with 6u spacebars. Now you know. For future reference.

[phishy]

Alright so the plate is cut and he sent me a video earlier.  The cutouts fit perfect top and bottom, but are loose side to side.  I dont think this could be a kerf issue due to the fact that it's a pretty large gap so I'm curious if it has to do with the actual size of the cutout just being off?  Aside from that the plate looks good, he shipped it out to me today.  Even though there is room on either side of the switch, it fits snug and it takes quite a but of force for him to push it from side to side.  Ignore the fact that the stab bar is upside down, I doubt he's had a mech spacebar off before so A+ for effort.

[p3lim]

Alright so the plate is cut and he sent me a video earlier.  The cutouts fit perfect top and bottom, but are loose side to side.  I dont think this could be a kerf issue due to the fact that it's a pretty large gap so I'm curious if it has to do with the actual size of the cutout just being off?  Aside from that the plate looks good, he shipped it out to me today.  Even though there is room on either side of the switch, it fits snug and it takes quite a but of force for him to push it from side to side.  Ignore the fact that the stab bar is upside down, I doubt he's had a mech spacebar off before so A+ for effort.

The long part of the stabilizer wire goes in the nooks, the small parts is for the keycap. Thanks for the laugh tho 
http://deskthority.net/wiki/File:Filco_Majestouch_1_--_Costar_stabiliser.jpg

As for the wiggle room, is it the same on all the other holes too?

[phishy]

Alright so the plate is cut and he sent me a video earlier.  The cutouts fit perfect top and bottom, but are loose side to side.  I dont think this could be a kerf issue due to the fact that it's a pretty large gap so I'm curious if it has to do with the actual size of the cutout just being off?  Aside from that the plate looks good, he shipped it out to me today.  Even though there is room on either side of the switch, it fits snug and it takes quite a but of force for him to push it from side to side.  Ignore the fact that the stab bar is upside down, I doubt he's had a mech spacebar off before so A+ for effort.

The long part of the stabilizer wire goes in the nooks, the small parts is for the keycap. Thanks for the laugh tho 
http://deskthority.net/wiki/File:Filco_Majestouch_1_--_Costar_stabiliser.jpg

As for the wiggle room, is it the same on all the other holes too?

Haha I know about the stab wire that video was from BBS.  The plate wont be here til Monday they shipped it out today.  I believe all of the holes have this wiggle room.  And judging by the amount of wiggle room and the fact that the top is tight, I dont think kerf can be to blame here.

[jdcarpe]

Looks like you used the default holes when you created your plate? If so, those gaps on the sides are for switch opening.

[phishy]

Looks like you used the default holes when you created your plate? If so, those gaps on the sides are for switch opening.

Yeah I used the default cutout (second from the left on the tool), so the wiggle room on each side is normal?  If so then it looks like the plate came out perfect.

[jdcarpe]

Yes. I watched the video, and it looks perfect to me.