Alps Appreciation Thread

[macclack]

A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).

Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to disassemble a vintage Alps keyboard. It feels a bit wrong.

[abrahamstechnology]

A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).

Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to disassemble a vintage Alps keyboard. It feels a bit wrong.

Thank you!

[pixelpusher]

A lot of us are lurkers or just use old Alps boards with no modifications, etc (I fall into both categories).

Glad to hear someone here isn't hacking up or (unsustainably) harvesting vintage keyboards.

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to disassemble a vintage Alps keyboard. It feels a bit wrong.

Thank you!

I cut a new old stock Ortek board down to make a 60% build from it.  Didn’t feel bad because it was pretty **** for quality. But yeah, nice solid boards should be respected for their purposeful beauty

https://imgur.com/gallery/8sS6M

[fohat.digs]

nice solid boards should be respected for their purposeful beauty

I am not averse to scavenging or altering common boards like Apples and Dells.

[Gati]

Sorry that this is off topic to the post, but where do most of y’all source your alps board?

[abrahamstechnology]

nice solid boards should be respected for their purposeful beauty

I am not averse to scavenging or altering common boards like Apples and Dells.

I have never seen any AEK or Dell AT101W in active service in my life. (Except of course, the refurbished ones I've sold/given away to people)

[fohat.digs]

I have never seen any AEK or Dell AT101W in active service in my life. (Except of course, the refurbished ones I've sold/given away to people)

True, I have not seen a strange one in use in at least a decade, but they used to appear in salvage and thrift stores from time to time. Nor I have not seen any there for a few years.

[pixelpusher]

Got a big one, boys.  First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers.  Glad some people still know how to make deals.

Sweet, smooth greens.  I think it's a looker:




Will update when it gets here.

[sncbraxsc2]

Got a big one, boys.  First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers.  Glad some people still know how to make deals.

Sweet, smooth greens.  I think it's a looker:

(Attachment Link)


Will update when it gets here.

OOh that is a good one! You got a switch pic from the seller? I've seen these with vintage blacks (AT) and SKCM Blue too. If the board is in as good condition as the box, those switches should be awesome:D

[pixelpusher]

Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps.  They are pretty clean.  Several of them are buttery smooth.  Some are about an 8/10.  But here's the problem... I can't get it to work.  It has an AT-XT switch on the back.  In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens.  The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens.  I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything. 

If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.

Any ideas?  Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work? 

It's a really fun board in good condition.  Just hate that I can't get it to work.

[MandrewDavis]

Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps.  They are pretty clean.  Several of them are buttery smooth.  Some are about an 8/10.  But here's the problem... I can't get it to work.  It has an AT-XT switch on the back.  In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens.  The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens.  I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything. 

If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.

Any ideas?  Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work? 

It's a really fun board in good condition.  Just hate that I can't get it to work.

Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.

It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.

[pixelpusher]

Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps.  They are pretty clean.  Several of them are buttery smooth.  Some are about an 8/10.  But here's the problem... I can't get it to work.  It has an AT-XT switch on the back.  In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens.  The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens.  I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything. 

If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.

Any ideas?  Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work? 

It's a really fun board in good condition.  Just hate that I can't get it to work.

Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.

It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.

I have a soarer's on the way.  I bet you're right.

[chyros]

Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps.  They are pretty clean.  Several of them are buttery smooth.  Some are about an 8/10.  But here's the problem... I can't get it to work.  It has an AT-XT switch on the back.  In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens.  The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens.  I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything. 

If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.

Any ideas?  Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work? 

It's a really fun board in good condition.  Just hate that I can't get it to work.

Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.

It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.

my white-label Z-150 didn't work with a Soarer's either, but it did work directly over PS/2 - however, he's already tried that Oo .

[pixelpusher]

Okay, so the KB-5152 has green alps.  They are pretty clean.  Several of them are buttery smooth.  Some are about an 8/10.  But here's the problem... I can't get it to work.  It has an AT-XT switch on the back.  In AT mode over PS2 (DIN-mini DIN adapter that I know works) nothing happens.  The Cursor Pad light comes on at startup of the computer, but nothing else happens.  I can't toggle numlock or caps or anything. 

If I put it in XT mode over the same adapter on startup, I can toggle numlock and capslock, but of course it doesn't work, b/c it's in XT mode.

Any ideas?  Do you think running it in XT mode with soarer's converter would work? 

It's a really fun board in good condition.  Just hate that I can't get it to work.

Not sure if this helps but the main reason I sold my White Label Z-150 was because even though it was an AT type protocol, it would only work with a cheap Monoprice mouse-keyboard combo PS/2 converter. It wouldn't work with my Soarer's or Hasu's TMK PS/2 converter, even with the pullup resistors and remapping keys is a necessity for me.

It might be possible there is something like that going on. At least you have the switch on there so it can work in AT/XT mode with Soarer's converter (more options), though I prefer flashing TMK.

my white-label Z-150 didn't work with a Soarer's either, but it did work directly over PS/2 - however, he's already tried that Oo .

Soarer's converter worked like a charm!  Biggest board I've owned to date, but I have an omnikey ultra in the mail... so bigger things ahead!

The green alps in this board are damn near mint.  /drool

P.S.  Does anyone know what the key in the middle of the arrow cluster (cross style) is supposed to be for?  It doesn't seem to have a purpose that I can find.

[mattlach]

I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.

What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?

[pixelpusher]

I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.

What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?

Your cheapest option is going to be a Dell AT101W (probably black alps) or an AEKII (probably dampened cream alps).

I'm not a fan of the dampened cream, personally.  The important thing is to get a keyboard that looks very clean and unused since dirty Alps switches tend to feel pretty bad.  I bought a new in box AT101W as my first Alps board.

There are also a lot of boards out there for just $10 to $20 more than the ones I listed above that have white alps switches, which are really nice as well.

[nevin]

I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.

What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?

alps come in many varieties, what's your current favorite type of switch? clicky, tactile, heavy, light, noisy, quiet? and we can probably point you in a good direction.

[mattlach]

Your cheapest option is going to be a Dell AT101W (probably black alps) or an AEKII (probably dampened cream alps).

I'm not a fan of the dampened cream, personally.  The important thing is to get a keyboard that looks very clean and unused since dirty Alps switches tend to feel pretty bad.  I bought a new in box AT101W as my first Alps board.

There are also a lot of boards out there for just $10 to $20 more than the ones I listed above that have white alps switches, which are really nice as well.

Cool, thank you.   I've exhausted by keyboard budget for a while, but this may be the next one I try!

[mattlach]

alps come in many varieties, what's your current favorite type of switch? clicky, tactile, heavy, light, noisy, quiet? and we can probably point you in a good direction.

Thank you.   My favorite switch by far of the ones I have tried are Model M style buckling springs, so very heavy, very tactile and and very clacky.

I've played around with some Cherry MX switches (Red, Brown, Blue) but by comparison they all feel the same to me.  I did recently order a board with MX Greens and one with MX Clears to see if I liked them better, but I haven't received them yet.

The holy grail for me is to find a full 104 key board with a modern sleek design, simple backlit doubleshot keys for nighttime ease of use  (none of that RGB bull****, it's not a Christmas tree) natrive USB and full NKRO with a key feel as close to buckling spring as possible.

This sounds unlikely though, from all the reading I've done.

[nevin]

thomas (chyros) would probably be a good one to ask about a comprison... even though it's comparing pineapple's to grapefruit.
also check out his youtube, has tons of reviews of alps boards, he did a whole trilogy on the alps switch series

possibly, blue or amber?

alps switch reference: https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series

typically the complicated versions are a little nicer & older.

[fohat.digs]

If you can find an AT101 in good condition and are comfortable with some manual tinkering, you can do a light modification to the switches and get a very clicky result.

[abrahamstechnology]

What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?

I could throw together an Alps64 or Dell AT101W for you. You can get SKBM White/Grey, SKBM Black, SKCL Yellow, used SKCM Black, and any Matias or Tai-Hao in-production switch.

I also know of a few NOS SKCM Green switches, but those would be super-expensive.

[mattlach]

Got a big one, boys.  First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers.  Glad some people still know how to make deals.

Sweet, smooth greens.  I think it's a looker:

(Attachment Link)


Will update when it gets here.

Nice!   "Keyboard" by "Professional Manufacturer of Keyboard"   Lol!

Almost sounds like some sort of scam

[pixelpusher]

Got a big one, boys.  First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers.  Glad some people still know how to make deals.

Sweet, smooth greens.  I think it's a looker:

(Attachment Link)


Will update when it gets here.

Nice!   "Keyboard" by "Professional Manufacturer of Keyboard"   Lol!

Almost sounds like some sort of scam

Yeah that’s one of my favorite parts is the box.  Random sine wave graphic, bad slogans. 

[chyros]

I have tons of Buckling Spring and some Cherry MX experience, but I have never felt an Alps switch.

What would you guys say is the best and cheapest way to give them a try?

Like Pixel said, get an AT101 or AEKII. They're cheap and plentiful.

Tactile Alps have the cool advantage that you can mod the switch to linear OR clicky. You can undamp AEKII's too.

Just get a clean one. If it's dirty or well-used, it'll likely feel pretty bad, or at least not as good. Be picky and/or opportunistic.

[NovemberDusk]

Got a big one, boys.  First time I've had a seller actually work with me with some good counter-offers.  Glad some people still know how to make deals.

Sweet, smooth greens.  I think it's a looker:

(Attachment Link)


Will update when it gets here.

Wow, both the keyboard and the box is a looker! How much did you get it for I wonder

[pixelpusher]

Got my Northgate board today!  First one.  It's the OmniMac Ultra, the "Mac" version of the normal OmniKey Ultra.  It's hard to find much about this keyboard



More photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/8VtN3VU

The GREAT news is that I found how to get it to work with my PC.  I stumbled across a 1992 forum post from verycomputer.com where someone mentioned that the DIP switches need to have 1 and 3 down, and 2 up.  On the normal OmniKey this would be ATT 6300 configuration, but it seems to magically work with my Hasu ADB to USB converter.  The one and only thing that doesn't work in this config is the NumLock indicator.  Not that you would ever use a NumLock on a fullsize+ keyboard.

It's in very clean condition (came in the original box and styrofoam).  Archetypal white Alps in pretty much mint condition.  The keycaps are thin, doubleshot ABS and are evenly yellowed.  Very impressed with the build and heft of the Northgate. 

The only thing I don't like about it is the space bar.  Typical rattle and short travel from the foam padding underneath.  I might work on it sometime.

Also, the DIP configuration and converter didn't seem to work on my Macbook Pro.  I've had issues with other keyboards on it as well, it's finicky.  No biggie for me, b/c I hardly ever use my macbook, but certainly something to mention in case someone was looking to use this on a mac.

[nevin]

pixelpusher, you might be missing the pullup resistor in the converter. this will cause various finicky issues from time to time depending on keyboard, cable, etc... congrats on getting it to work.

question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[Altis]

Got my Northgate board today!  First one.  It's the OmniMac Ultra, the "Mac" version of the normal OmniKey Ultra.  It's hard to find much about this keyboard

(Attachment Link)

More photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/8VtN3VU

The GREAT news is that I found how to get it to work with my PC.  I stumbled across a 1992 forum post from verycomputer.com where someone mentioned that the DIP switches need to have 1 and 3 down, and 2 up.  On the normal OmniKey this would be ATT 6300 configuration, but it seems to magically work with my Hasu ADB to USB converter.  The one and only thing that doesn't work in this config is the NumLock indicator.  Not that you would ever use a NumLock on a fullsize+ keyboard.

It's in very clean condition (came in the original box and styrofoam).  Archetypal white Alps in pretty much mint condition.  The keycaps are thin, doubleshot ABS and are evenly yellowed.  Very impressed with the build and heft of the Northgate. 

The only thing I don't like about it is the space bar.  Typical rattle and short travel from the foam padding underneath.  I might work on it sometime.

Also, the DIP configuration and converter didn't seem to work on my Macbook Pro.  I've had issues with other keyboards on it as well, it's finicky.  No biggie for me, b/c I hardly ever use my macbook, but certainly something to mention in case someone was looking to use this on a mac.

Looks really nice!

A forum post from 1992...  Could have been typed up on that board!

[ThoughtArtist]

Got my Northgate board today!  First one.  It's the OmniMac Ultra, the "Mac" version of the normal OmniKey Ultra.  It's hard to find much about this keyboard

(Attachment Link)

More photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/8VtN3VU

The GREAT news is that I found how to get it to work with my PC.  I stumbled across a 1992 forum post from verycomputer.com where someone mentioned that the DIP switches need to have 1 and 3 down, and 2 up.  On the normal OmniKey this would be ATT 6300 configuration, but it seems to magically work with my Hasu ADB to USB converter.  The one and only thing that doesn't work in this config is the NumLock indicator.  Not that you would ever use a NumLock on a fullsize+ keyboard.

It's in very clean condition (came in the original box and styrofoam).  Archetypal white Alps in pretty much mint condition.  The keycaps are thin, doubleshot ABS and are evenly yellowed.  Very impressed with the build and heft of the Northgate. 

The only thing I don't like about it is the space bar.  Typical rattle and short travel from the foam padding underneath.  I might work on it sometime.

Also, the DIP configuration and converter didn't seem to work on my Macbook Pro.  I've had issues with other keyboards on it as well, it's finicky.  No biggie for me, b/c I hardly ever use my macbook, but certainly something to mention in case someone was looking to use this on a mac.

Double down arrows just in case, eh?

[kakan]

question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Can't say about cream/whites, but I've tried 40g sprit springs in SKCM brown switches with black switchplate and they worked fine.

[MandrewDavis]

Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.

[retrochick]

Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.

Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.

[MandrewDavis]

Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.

Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.

I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.

[chyros]

Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.

Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.

I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.

Did you get the Epson or the Packard Bell?

[MandrewDavis]

Just paid an exorbitant amount of money, but I now have an SKCL Brown keyboard on the way. Hopefully the switches are in decent shape, at least with SKCL switches you don't have to worry about altering the tactile leaf when cleaning.

Congrats. I got to try out a board with brown alps and I must say they are my favorite alps switches and the closest of any switch to the feel of topre. I currently have a v80 with linear modded cream dampened alps that a friend built for me. It's awesome.

I am very familiar with SKCM (Tactile) Brown Alps, the board I bought actually contains SKCL (Linear) Brown Alps! Much rarer. I have lots of custom Alps projects to come in the next few months.

Did you get the Epson or the Packard Bell?

The Epson, as it was a bit less yellowed. I will most likely be desoldering the switches and doing a big cleaning job. I still have four more PCBs left I designed for my NOS Blue Alps Copam keyboard that should fit the layout. If any switches go back in the chassis, it will be with one of those PCBs (yay USB and NKRO).

 Too bad I hate any layout with a BAE key - so much so I had to rehaul that Copam keyboard of mine. News on that coming soon.

[nevin]

question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Can't say about cream/whites, but I've tried 40g sprit springs in SKCM brown switches with black switchplate and they worked fine.

thanks kakan.

[MandrewDavis]

question for all.... has anyone put lighter springs in alps dampened cream/white or tactile switches? what's the breaking point that spring is too light to make switch work correctly? i've read about this on the MX side, very light springs in a more tactile switch (like say clear or green MX) the switch would not work correctly (tactile too stiff for spring). any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Can't say about cream/whites, but I've tried 40g sprit springs in SKCM brown switches with black switchplate and they worked fine.

Doesn't changing spring (to a lighter one) actually effect the actuation force? I was was under the impression that most of the force needed to depress the switch was from the tactile dummy plate. I've never opened up my SKCM Browns.

[nevin]

Yes. Changing springs in a switch will change the bottom out & actuation force, depending on what spring you put in them. Just like in the MX world... MX black & MX red are identical except for the weight of the spring.

[YooGenius]

Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.

The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?

[chyros]

Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.

The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?

Congrats, a nice find!

I'd be careful tbh. The Alps stem isn't too strong - it's just a little bar, after all. I'd recommend getting a ring puller ($1 shipped from China), and pulling it off from the middle of the switch.

Wire pullers are better for single keys IMO, but they don't fit around big keys, so it pays to have one of each.

[YooGenius]

Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.

The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?

Congrats, a nice find!

I'd be careful tbh. The Alps stem isn't too strong - it's just a little bar, after all. I'd recommend getting a ring puller ($1 shipped from China), and pulling it off from the middle of the switch.

Wire pullers are better for single keys IMO, but they don't fit around big keys, so it pays to have one of each.

Luckily I have a ring puller! So a ring puller, in the middle of the spacebar and pull straight up?

Btw, I love your Youtube Channel. Big Fan  )

[chyros]

Picked up my first Alps board and I am blown away by the feel and sound of it! White Alps in a Focus FK-2001.

The spacebar is sticky though. I've read that I get two screw drivers, place it under each end of the spacebar and pull straight up?

Congrats, a nice find!

I'd be careful tbh. The Alps stem isn't too strong - it's just a little bar, after all. I'd recommend getting a ring puller ($1 shipped from China), and pulling it off from the middle of the switch.

Wire pullers are better for single keys IMO, but they don't fit around big keys, so it pays to have one of each.

Luckily I have a ring puller! So a ring puller, in the middle of the spacebar and pull straight up?

Btw, I love your Youtube Channel. Big Fan  )

Cheers mate .

Put the ring right where the switch is and pull up. You'll need to use a bit of force, but don't go mad on it. Still, this is by far the most likely method to not damage it.

[NovemberDusk]

So, my Monterey K104 finally arrived and I am LOVING it. Fitted with SKCM Whites of the Pine variety, these feels so good and it secured my love for Alps switches

The rest of the keyboard is pretty good too, doubleshot ABS keycaps with a decent solid build quality. Does flex a little when I attempted to twist it but who really does that to their keeb on a daily basis? Cable is also thicc and the connector looks pristine!



One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance.

One solution I thought of is to desolder the switch on the Pause/Break key then use that as a replacement. Because who uses that key like at all?! I sure haven't. Other suggestions would be welcome too! I just want to get this board working with all the critical keys working.

All in all, this was a hella good buy. As my first Alps board, I'm pleasantly surprised and I suppose Alps, to me at least, has lived up to the hype.

[abrahamstechnology]

One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance.

I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.

[NovemberDusk]

One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance.

I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.

That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?

[nevin]

i'm looking for some apple/alps parts, see my WTB post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=99212.0

[abrahamstechnology]

One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance.

I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.

That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?

It shouldn't matter, I think they are interchangeable.
Although since you live in Singapore it may be cheaper to buy some NOS SKCL Yellows from TaoBao and use the switchplates from them instead.

[NovemberDusk]

One small niggle though... one of the switches has their contact pins rusted to oblivion as seen in the picture above. And I was able to pull the entire switch out without resistance.

I have a bunch of extra switchplates if you need any.

That would be sweet! Which do I need? The long or short switchplate?

It shouldn't matter, I think they are interchangeable.
Although since you live in Singapore it may be cheaper to buy some NOS SKCL Yellows from TaoBao and use the switchplates from them instead.

Likely interchangeable but I would like to get the most authentic feel and the difference in switchplates contribute to that 

I wouldn't mind shipping switchplates from you though, it won't cost much.

[Aran.E99]

On the topic of Montereys and white alps, I got this Monterey K102 almost 2 weeks ago and have been using it ever since.

The switches feel great but, even after 2 days of cleaning, still feel a tiny bit scratchy. They feel MUCH better than clicky modded black alps, though.

The plate had almost no rust/gunk on it yet the switches were in quite poor shape. The B key doesn't even function properly despite desoldering and cleaning it. I also have to unplug and plug the board post-bios as it doesn't function when I boot though I suspect the computer is to blame.

All issues aside its proven to be a pretty great board & daily driver.