Yeah, I think laser is the way to go. IIRC, litster had the Phantom plates laser cut from 1/16" 6061, then found a place that would sand them a bit thinner before the anodizing process.
Well, the obvious answer is just do it SMD w/ integrated controller and have the fab take care of it :)
I might be able to use this:I like it!
{image here}
It's a surface sander, it's like a thickness planer for wood but it can take a few thousandths off at a time using sand paper (pretty accurate)
What software is people using to generate those layout schematics?
What software is people using to generate those layout schematics?
If you mean the plate design, it was originally done with CAD software. That plate image is a screenshot, I think, of the PHANSI plate that I grabbed from another thread, then modified in Paint.
For the key layout, I used Hazeluff's Dox template image, again grabbed from another thread, and modified it to my needs using Paint. I don't know how Hazel made the original.
ISO, anyone, ISO? There are already several 60% ANSI boards out there
Dare to be unique!
Go against the stream!
Make yourself known!
Be pioneers!
Vote ISO!
ISO, anyone, ISO? There are already several 60% ANSI boards out there
Dare to be unique!
Go against the stream!
Make yourself known!
Be pioneers!
Vote ISO!
Why on earth would anyone want ISO?!
ISO, anyone, ISO? There are already several 60% ANSI boards out there
Dare to be unique!
Go against the stream!
Make yourself known!
Be pioneers!
Vote ISO!
ISO, anyone, ISO? There are already several 60% ANSI boards out there
Dare to be unique!
Go against the stream!
Make yourself known!
Be pioneers!
Vote ISO!
Why on earth would anyone want ISO?!
Superior layouts bro ! :p
I wish it to just be a pcb drop in replacement for Poker. It would be best if it fits in the existing Poker cases. Only thing I care about would be able to program the 2nd layer myself since it is the only thing I don't like about the Poker. It is ok with me if it's winkeyless also of course, I have plenty of 1.5 Cherry modifier.
I wish it to just be a pcb drop in replacement for Poker. It would be best if it fits in the existing Poker cases. Only thing I care about would be able to program the 2nd layer myself since it is the only thing I don't like about the Poker. It is ok with me if it's winkeyless also of course, I have plenty of 1.5 Cherry modifier.
This is what I was aiming for. Programmable Poker replacement with 1.5 mods, that would fit into a Poker case.
I'm okay with having ISO options on the PCB, and another plate option for it. We could also have the options, just like the Phantom does, for 1.25 or 1.5 mods. At that point, this is basically a Phantom 60%, instead of a TKL (80%). I'm cool if people want that, I just had something a little different in mind. My thinking was that if we had one standard layout, like the Korean customs do, instead of the 4 options, it would be cheaper per unit.
Hazeluff, if you want the large keys split up like that, just build a Dox. :)
If everyone wants the ANSI/ISO option, as well as the 1.5/1.25 option, maybe we should incorporate this design (Phantom 60% with onboard programmable SMD controller and Poker/Pure case mounts) into the next round of the Phantom, as an additional PCB design. That is, if bpiphany, litster, et al. are amenable to that.
There is no need not to make the pcb compatible with several layouts. The ones that want a different layout than the main chosen one could go pcb-mount so that only one plate is made.
1800 shift is perfect for this layout, the pure did it right there. Perfect location for the fn key which allows the 1x mods to be windowsI like this idea, as I like the Pure layout. However, if it is fully programmable, there's always the option of remapping. I do like having that extra key, tho.
So, I think most people want something like this:
[img width=640 height=206]http://i.imgur.com/7Zb65.png[img]
[img width=640 height=228]http://i.imgur.com/nEYo6.png[img]
I think we can use the Phantom PCB, just redesigned to be cut down to 60% size. Phantom Mini. The bottom row could have options for winkey or winkeyless. Also, ISO layout could be included, just like on the original Phantom. You just buy the universal Phantom Mini PCB, and whichever plate matches your chosen layout (PHMANSI, PHMANSIWIN, PHMISO, PHMISOWIN).
There's a thread for that...It's called the KS Mini. :P
Why on fullsize if used for taking notes, like in a class or something... you want it small so it is less annoying to lug around all day.
I don't think bpiphany will mind at all if you want to help with the redesign. He will probably send you the KiCAD file of the Phantom PCB. I have a copy saved somewhere, if it's needed.
This would be my ideal layout:Show Image(http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp349/lysol8086/4cbbb5f6.png)
This would be my ideal layout:Show Image(http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp349/lysol8086/4cbbb5f6.png)
I see the merits of your design, but we would have to redesign much more of the PCB, instead of simply making a few modifications to an existing design. And several people have expresses desire to have a standard, modern bottom row with 1.25 mods and 6.25 space. So I think we need to keep that option available.
komar007, you might take a look at the Dox PCB layout files here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19227.0
I think the Dox has the Teensy located under the spacebar
Any chance this is going to support a 7x spacebar?
Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/WASDKeyboards-CustomKeyboard-Final-1.png)
only reason i dont have anything special on that layout is i made it for WASD as a possible layout and since program-ability and layering wasnt wanted. thats about as small of a board that you can make with all functions available and sill have a semi normal layout.Show Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/WASDKeyboards-CustomKeyboard-Final-1.png)
Lol, great minds think alike. Does it look familiar or what:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3goQY.gif)
komar007, you might take a look at the Dox PCB layout files here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19227.0
I think the Dox has the Teensy located under the spacebar
yes its under the spacebar and yes smd would be better but wasnt an option on the revised doxkomar007, you might take a look at the Dox PCB layout files here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19227.0
I think the Dox has the Teensy located under the spacebar
For a board that's compact, It's probably best to SMD a MCU onto the PCB. Tho obviously some people are terrified of soldering already in the first place.
komar007, you might take a look at the Dox PCB layout files here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19227.0
I think the Dox has the Teensy located under the spacebar
For a board that's compact, It's probably best to SMD a MCU onto the PCB. Tho obviously some people are terrified of soldering already in the first place.
all i have to say is screw the 7bit spacebar ive used 4 separate spacebars for a week now and they MUST gokomar007, you might take a look at the Dox PCB layout files here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19227.0
I think the Dox has the Teensy located under the spacebar
For a board that's compact, It's probably best to SMD a MCU onto the PCB. Tho obviously some people are terrified of soldering already in the first place.
The MCU will surely be smd and soldered under the space bar, because there's no space anywhere else;)
The only thing is, we may not be able to support 7bit multi-part spacebar because of that.
Anyone needs any other space bar than 6.25 and 7 units?
Ok, so before I get to do the board, here's my proposed image, which shows all possible layouts. It seems this can be achieved, but we'll see how the pads for switches will fit.
Please correct any mistakes now, before I lay out the board;)
(Attachment Link)
Legend:
The basic ISO with 1.25 mods and 6.25 spacebar is drawn gray.
I marked some alternative options with green, they are 1/16 unit (unit = 19mm) smaller on all sides, not to interfere with gray lines.
In some places it was necessary to use blue, where I overlaid them on top of both gray and green. In such case the caps are 1/16 unit smaller on top and bottom, and as large as the green overlay horizontally.
The supported alternatives to gray layout are (can be mixed together):
* ISO layout (vertical enter and complementary "#" (marked green), and shorter left shift with additional key to the left from "z" (also green))
* extra fn/mod/whatever either to the left or right from right shift, making it 1.75u instead of 2.75u (marked green and blue)
* model-m-like 1.5-1-1.5 modifier on the left and right side of the spacebar (7u) (marked green)
* lysol's layout with two 1.5 mods on the left and 1.5-1-1-1.5 combo on the right (spacebar 7u) (marked blue)
Well, I do! :)
But I'll never look at anything else anymore once the ergodox is finished. ;)
The right hand shift area is a bit cramped if you do both 1-1.75 and 1.75-1EDIT: quoted badly;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/niu1k.png)
Looks great. Some of those switches in the bottom row will need to be upside down though, because i ma fairly certain that they will interfere with each other.
Looks great. Some of those switches in the bottom row will need to be upside down though, because i ma fairly certain that they will interfere with each other.
I mentioned the solution there. Just have some of the switches upside down, like I believe some of the switches in the Phantom are. This resolves the issue of them being to close to each other and interfering.
Spacebars are crazy as for stem placement, so the question is: which are we going to support?
How far apart are the stems on 7u spacebars and where is the center stem?
6.25 units (118mm wide, 3 mounts, no center mount)
3 mounts, two mounts 50mm apart from center, one mount 12.5mm to the right.
Assuming we're using the teensy controller here, is it possible to solder the components directly onto the pcb? Just saw this in the dox kb thread and thought it would make it look much cleaner. Although this would require some pros to do it i guess thus adding up to the cost. :rolleyes:
Looks great. Some of those switches in the bottom row will need to be upside down though, because i ma fairly certain that they will interfere with each other.
I mentioned the solution there. Just have some of the switches upside down, like I believe some of the switches in the Phantom are. This resolves the issue of them being to close to each other and interfering.
How much would it cost to add holes for leds on each switch? No traces, just holes so that one could, if they wanted to, wire them up manually.why not traces also? I like leds even though theyll just make the caps glow.
How much would it cost to add holes for leds on each switch? No traces, just holes so that one could, if they wanted to, wire them up manually.
why not traces also? I like leds even though theyll just make the caps glow.
Is it possible to just have led in switch for both caps positions?
Does the teensy allow for fn locks like what the poker has (or other such toggles like on the pure)?
http://deskthority.net/resources/image/1900Is it possible to just have led in switch for both caps positions?
For caps backlighting, the switches have to be in regular position (LED at the bottom, to shine through the window). If I put them like this, one of the solder pads overlaps with the mounting hole of the second switch.
(Attachment Link)
Even if I rotate the switches, like I did in modifier section, and allow the LED to be in a weird position, something will always overlap...
@dirge: With the Phantom, you can solder the switches of the keys affected either in the center or off center. I suppose if the design is copied this will be the same.
Sorry I should be clearer mate :) I wasn't saying the design would be the same but the main aim of the project. The phantom main goal was to use a set of cherry caps on the board without the need to get keys from sig plastics.
How hard would it be to add a USB port onto this (to plug in a number pad)?
How hard would it be to add a USB port onto this (to plug in a number pad)?
Very easy because all you need is to wire another port to the incoming port to make a primitive USB hub.
Though possible from protocol's perspective, it won't work at least because plug/unplug detection can't work (pull ups/pull downs will be messed up).Ok, didn't know that. I knew that the protocol supported it because I have done so in the past, but I guess I was lucky then and that these are more complicated circumstances.
I prefer type B too, but it won't fit to the slot in the poker case...wait your using the poker case now? I thought this was going to have a custom case. Also arnt pokers hard to get or has that been cleared up? Additionally the DOX revsion that ive been helping on requires a poker case as well and there are already a few PCB designs and firmware and even a plate though my exact layoutis being worked out at this time.
I think that we should stick to a USB Mini B connector. Since that's what is used for the Poker, Pure, HHKB, Rosewill, QFR, Leopold, etc.MicroB is much more durable than minib
Well, I chose smd so that we can get the cheapest assembly, but have no experience in that matter...
In the worst case we can find a few people (me included) to actually solder the whole thing before shipping if assembly is too expensive.
It would be good if someone who's had experience working with fabhouses shared some of it with us.
I've also checked the prices of a local pcb manufacturer and it seems we can get down to $20@60pcbs. Not sure I calculated this correctly, and I don't know if they have gold-plating.
I know why the USB connector is centered between the switches in the Poker and not in my design. Because the Poker has all the switches moved a bit. They're not exactly centered with respect to the pcb. I think I'll leave mine centered.
The drills are 1mm, I'll drill such holes and check if that's enough. If it is, maybe I'll leave it like that. Or maybe larger will be better. That's for hand soldering...
What is the pcb looking like atm? Is the position of the controller final? Will it fit imsto's new aluminium cases?The position is not final. I have to make sure the controller won't get in the way with the poker case, because it has some strengthening horizontal bars.
I'd like to throw in a request for an alps version, I wanted to try and take it on myself but just haven't got the ability if I'm honest.Please find some trustworthy datasheets with footprints for the alps switches and I'll see if it's possible to integrate them to the current design. If not, we can do an alps-only version next time.
Are we 100% just going with 1.5 1 1.5 7 1.5 1 1.5 bottom row the reason I ask is that that really limits what can be put on that keyboard for keycaps. Also do you think that I could get a blank layout of the GH60 do that I can start messing around with what my layout could potentially be?
Wooo, just seeing this thread for the first time.Cool, that means you're in, right?:P
1) Awesome
2) i vote that with a typical "ansi" layout, the outside edge of both shift keys should become a single "1x" modifier.Currently doable only on the right side. Left side should be possible to, I'll see.
3) I wish i had something more to contribute. :PWhen we have at least prototypes, we'll need to finish the controller code and write a layout gui.
im were going to need to do the controller smd then might as well make the diodes that as well.Diodes don't protect from ghosting, or at least that is not the most important point of them. Diodes actually protect from burning the outputs of an IC when a row is selected by setting it low, while all the other rows are high. When two keys from the same column are pressed at the same time, this makes a short, and who knows what happens.I am wrong;)
Our keyboard will leave all the other rows in Hi-Z, so I don't see a reason for diodes. Correct me if I'm wrong.
EDIT: Okay, I've drawn the schematic an analyzed it. I think I see where my problem is. Sorry for misinformation.
EDIT2: Where do we want the diodes? Next to switches like in Phantom, or inside switches? Or maybe all smd, so that it comes with diodes presoldered.
im were going to need to do the controller smd then might as well make the diodes that as well.
We have 3 different options for the bottom row, see the current drawing (https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx6f5gr57m5gxc2/kb.png (https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx6f5gr57m5gxc2/kb.png)).I see three options for the left side and three options for the right side. All options that the Phantom had plus the option of two 1.5 keys together on the left side like on winkeyless Cherry G80-1800 and G80-11800. :D
EDIT2: Where do we want the diodes? Next to switches like in Phantom, or inside switches? Or maybe all smd, so that it comes with diodes presoldered.If they are inside switches, then that would add more holes per switch, additional constraints on how switches can be placed and fewer options for layout.
I don't get the 1.5 mod craz.
I like my 1.25 mods.
Just because korean make it the 1.5 way doesn't need we need to copy them.
Interested, especially in winkeyless layout with 1.5-1-1.5 mods and full 2.75 right shift, like this 356mini:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IS1YE.jpg)
(source: http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/4191734)
Interested, especially in winkeyless layout with 1.5-1-1.5 mods and full 2.75 right shift, like this 356mini:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IS1YE.jpg)
(source: http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/4191734)
Yea it should be a clone of the phantom so should all the layouts be possible.minus that stupid 7bit spacebar I couldnt get used a non standard spacebar for the life of me even got custom plates to remedy the issue.
It definitely needs a 7bit or japanese bottom-row option, I don't want to waste all that space on just space, especially not on a 60%!
the room under the space is needed for the controller because you cant put it between the num and function row.It definitely needs a 7bit or japanese bottom-row option, I don't want to waste all that space on just space, especially not on a 60%!
May get very busy with the controller being there.
How much would I have to do myself as a part of this? Would I just get the PCB?
I made a post in the Phantom thread that could benefit this project too. A couple of extra points to solder the LEDs under caps lock and the other would allow for MX Lock to be used.
You solder the switches, put the keycaps on and you're good to go. You can also add a Poker/imsto case it you want to;)Okay, doesn't sound too hard :P
There are like 15 officially interested now, it looks promising.you could pm ishtob he should have pricing on dox pcb i think he may have better pricing.
This doesn't change the fact that we need like 35 more to get decent assembly prices...
I got back to kicad today after I ended my semester project, so I can hopefully bring this to an end soon.
Just saying, so that you know I didn't drop it.
I'd love for it to be plate mount, if someone can whip up a dwg of the plate I'm sure I can have it cut for pretty cheap (if enough people order plates that is)agreed it should be platemounted.
Looks great. I wonder if we shouldn't sneak plates in with beasts GB, it will lower the cost of his plates too.
Btw, you put one too many soldering points of the LED. The rightmost won't be reached, even with off center LED in a switch mounted to the right.
It looks like the interest is now much higher, or at least much more pronounced. That's cool. We can easily go for production with that many people.
The PCB is nearly done, I had a delay because of my university project.
Currently I only need to make decisions connected with mounting hole placement so that I'm sure it fits the poker case.
There is no metal plate designed though, which on the other hand can be produced later. Not everybody wants it with the plate, hopefully.
EDIT: Here's the current state of the PCB: https://www.dropbox.com/s/iizh3llzqu1jcyo/kb2.png
Add me to the officially interested list please.
Go on. Add me on the list.
I've set aside a few weeks student loans :D
Added list of interested parties to first post. Thanks, neeb!
If it were to have an extra column to the right, I would get 3 instead of 1 and I would also have a Phantom and a kidney for sale.
put me down for 1
put me down for 1
think you're on the list twice now lol
Been following this thread every since jdcarpe started it, and finally decided for sure that I want this now. Add me to the list also :).
The PCB looks pretty crammed. What does it take to add LEDs in all the switchtes for a backlit effect? Does it need separate traces for all the LEDs or can they share the same electrical trace as the switches? How would the controller handle the LEDs? I know that's a lot of question, but the PURE is in this form factor and has LEDs. So it's doable, now I'm just wondering how hard it would be to implement it in this case.
And also, what is required to add USB hubs similar to HHKB? It's been mentioned earlier in this thread but I think it needs a separate chip for this because the ATmega34u does not have anymore spare pins?
Been following this thread every since jdcarpe started it, and finally decided for sure that I want this now. Add me to the list also :) .
The PCB looks pretty crammed. What does it take to add LEDs in all the switchtes for a backlit effect? Does it need separate traces for all the LEDs or can they share the same electrical trace as the switches? How would the controller handle the LEDs? I know that's a lot of question, but the PURE is in this form factor and has LEDs. So it's doable, now I'm just wondering how hard it would be to implement it in this case.
And also, what is required to add USB hubs similar to HHKB? It's been mentioned earlier in this thread but I think it needs a separate chip for this because the ATmega34u does not have anymore spare pins?
From what I can tell, this keyboard has gotten progressively more complicated since the idea was first brought up so that it would be able to accommodate a bunch of different layouts and stuff. I would think that at this point (komar said the PCB is just about finished) it may not be very easy to add anything else.
I also have absolutely no involvement in the production/design of this though, lol, so maybe it can be done I'm really not sure. I would love to hear an update from komar, this thing is coming along nicely and I'm getting excited :D !!
I think this keyboard doesn't have backlight mainly because it doesn't have backlight;)
It was just designed as a poker replacement pcb with full programmability and a few available layouts. Not KBT Pure.
Technically speaking, it's possible. In practice, to have enough pins we'd need to redesign the matrix to be 8x8, not 5x14, increase the traces count by a half and add a darlington array to control rows or columns, and that means one more SO20 chip. Doable, but I've tried already and it gets pretty dense. We could also go with only all leds on/all leds off instead of individual control, but this still requires some more traces.
A different problem is there are some switches which are rotated to eliminate pad overlapping. In order to support leds, I'd have to put all of them in the same orientation. This would make support pins overlap with the main switch holes, making it more unstable in plate-less version.
As for updates, sorry none yet. Nearly all the design work is done, now I'm choosing elements. I need to find things which I can both easily buy in small quantities for prototype and on reels, so that the assembly company can pick and place them easily.
So it's mainly decisions time. I'm going to contact the pcb prototyping company on Monday and hopefully send the prototype design by the end of the week.
The company's lead time is 2 weeks as far as I remember, so if I order by the end of the week, I should have a working prototype in 3 weeks from now.
Later everything depends on whether there are errors in the design;)
Ok, so before I get to do the board, here's my proposed image, which shows all possible layouts. It seems this can be achieved, but we'll see how the pads for switches will fit.
Please correct any mistakes now, before I lay out the board;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png)
Legend:
The basic ISO with 1.25 mods and 6.25 spacebar is drawn gray.
I marked some alternative options with green, they are 1/16 unit (unit = 19mm) smaller on all sides, not to interfere with gray lines.
In some places it was necessary to use blue, where I overlaid them on top of both gray and green. In such case the caps are 1/16 unit smaller on top and bottom, and as large as the green overlay horizontally.
The supported alternatives to gray layout are (can be mixed together):
* ISO layout (vertical enter and complementary "#" (marked green), and shorter left shift with additional key to the left from "z" (also green))
* extra fn/mod/whatever either to the left or right from right shift, making it 1.75u instead of 2.75u (marked green and blue)
* model-m-like 1.5-1-1.5 modifier on the left and right side of the spacebar (7u) (marked green)
* lysol's layout with two 1.5 mods on the left and 1.5-1-1-1.5 combo on the right (spacebar 7u) (marked blue)
Will is support a 1.5 0 1.5 spacebar 1.5 0 1.5 but without the short right shift/FN key?
Basically the pic you have above but with a standard sized shift button
Ok, so before I get to do the board, here's my proposed image, which shows all possible layouts. It seems this can be achieved, but we'll see how the pads for switches will fit.
Please correct any mistakes now, before I lay out the board;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png)
Legend:
The basic ISO with 1.25 mods and 6.25 spacebar is drawn gray.
I marked some alternative options with green, they are 1/16 unit (unit = 19mm) smaller on all sides, not to interfere with gray lines.
In some places it was necessary to use blue, where I overlaid them on top of both gray and green. In such case the caps are 1/16 unit smaller on top and bottom, and as large as the green overlay horizontally.
The supported alternatives to gray layout are (can be mixed together):
* ISO layout (vertical enter and complementary "#" (marked green), and shorter left shift with additional key to the left from "z" (also green))
* extra fn/mod/whatever either to the left or right from right shift, making it 1.75u instead of 2.75u (marked green and blue)
* model-m-like 1.5-1-1.5 modifier on the left and right side of the spacebar (7u) (marked green)
* lysol's layout with two 1.5 mods on the left and 1.5-1-1-1.5 combo on the right (spacebar 7u) (marked blue)
Since he spec'd the grey layout as his baseline, looks like standard right shift is in.
The fun part is going to be all the plate variations that people want :)
Since he spec'd the grey layout as his baseline, looks like standard right shift is in.
The fun part is going to be all the plate variations that people want :)
That should be fun for the person running that GB
:'(
Since he spec'd the grey layout as his baseline, looks like standard right shift is in.
The fun part is going to be all the plate variations that people want :)
That should be fun for the person running that GB
:'(
I can't imagine there would have to be a plate design for every possible layout...that would be madness! I'd say take a vote for the most popular 2-3 layouts. If alot of people are doing this to have an ISO 60%, then that may be a popular choice, but you've gotta put your foot down somewhere! lol
Ah, well...people will likely still pay the premium for personal layouts. That's cool of you to offer many options, though. I'm pretty excited to get my Poker plate, I'm currently making a custom case for it out of wood, so the plate will add some extra weight. ^-^
Will is support a 1.5 0 1.5 spacebar 1.5 0 1.5 but without the short right shift/FN key?Basically, yes. In practice if you put nothing between alt and ctrl, you'll have exposed holes in the pcb. The shift layout is independent from bottom row - see next quotes.
I'll run any plate design if a .dwg is provided to me. However ordering just one or two is going to be ~$25 per plate even on a small plate.
What layouts does it support? Is it like the 365 mini because that's the one I liked the most.The best answer to this is this post:
I think it will support any standard alpha-num layout available, those of which are interchangeable among each other (as in, you can combine any R1 combo with any R2 combo, and with ANSI or ISO Enter cluster layout, etc.). There is an option for the Right Shift/Fn cluster to have it [ 2.75 ] - [ 1 | 1.75 ] -or- [ 1.75 | 1 ] as on the Left Shift you can either have ANSI [ 2.25 ] or ISO [ 1.25 ]. At least that's how I've understood it so far.Let's make this official: three clusters, configurable independently by soldering switches to right places:
Komar, if i'll already have plate for Poker will i be able to use it with standard ANSI GH60? I do remember reading in this thread about that Poker switchers are shifted a little bit or something like that. Did you take that into account with latest revisions?So far the distances between switches are 19mm spot on. This is different than standard 19.05 and slightly different than poker, I think. Most probably I'll change it to be the same as in poker, but I can't promise anything.
I can't imagine there would have to be a plate design for every possible layout...that would be madness! I'd say take a vote for the most popular 2-3 layouts. If alot of people are doing this to have an ISO 60%, then that may be a popular choice, but you've gotta put your foot down somewhere! lolDesigning plates for all options is not a problem, there are only 18 of them, so it's a matter of designing a base drawing, then a total of 8 small parts for the 3 clusters and then someone has to sit down and copy and paste these clusters in 18 different variants.
Let's make this official: three clusters, configurable independently by soldering switches to right places:
* left shift (2 options): ANSI 2.25, ISO 1.25 + 1u key
* right shift (3 options): ANSI/ISO 2.75, short 1.75 + 1u key to the right, short 1.75 + 1u key to the left
* bottom row (3 options): standard poker (3x1.25,6.25,4x1.25), model m (1.5,1,1.5,7,1.5,1,1.5), lysol (1.5,1.5,7,1.5,2x1,1.5).
For those of you who don't want to solder switches yourself I may provide a soldering service if I get enough orders to buy switches from cherry at sensible prices, or from 7bit.
There is a fourth cluster, you forgot the actual ISO or ANSI enter.
With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Great! Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get a case for that . . . .With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Great! Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get a case for that . . . .With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Great! Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get a case for that . . . .With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Well the standard pastic poker case should work. There is also, treb, oneproducts and imsto's poker cases that would all be great with this board
Great! Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get a case for that . . . .With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Well the standard pastic poker case should work. There is also, treb, oneproducts and imsto's poker cases that would all be great with this board
Although we can't be sure that any of those fit for sure, right? Just because this is made to fit the case of the Poker, and those other cases fit the Poker PCB does not directly imply that the GH60 will fit in those other cases. I really hoe they will though.
I was more wanting the meta key covered and I'd prefer an aluminum case which would be pretty much just me. I'm not sure if I could keep it as one piece and just slide the pcb in, would have to work on a design for it.Great! Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get a case for that . . . .With all those options there would be nothing wrong if I used the model m bottom row and just didn't put in meta keys right?Correct.
Well the standard pastic poker case should work. There is also, treb, oneproducts and imsto's poker cases that would all be great with this board
I would personally like it to be a 65-70% with the function row or an extra column, but that may just be me.
There's a thread for that...It's called the KS Mini. :P
And where might said thread be?http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35108.0
Sounds interesting...
I'd love to put my name down for one, only thing holding me back is the proposed smaller right shift and it not being the normal 2.75 width..The smaller right shift is just an option. The other option is normal 2.75 shift. It's you to decide by soldering the switch in the right place.
I'd love to put my name down for one, only thing holding me back is the proposed smaller right shift and it not being the normal 2.75 width..The smaller right shift is just an option. The other option is normal 2.75 shift. It's you to decide by soldering the switch in the right place.
Thanks for all the interest. I hope I'll be able to deliver this project to you at a sensible price which won't make people jump off the list;)
I think I've finally figured out the mounting hole placement and other dimensions, so there's not that much left to do.
It's a shame that so much depends on the assembler and pcb fab, but the good news is there's one full-service company like 20 minutes walk from my house, so if they can do a sensible job with pcb and soldering, working with them should be easier and faster than doing it all over mail.
Do you also have the center threaded insert in your poker cases?
I noticed it's missing from some cases, and there's no hole for it in the pcb. Anyway, I made that hole in GH60, it may be useful for better support.
Looking forward to some pricing estimate. Need to know if I can afford more than 1 or not. :)
But what about keys that need stabilizers?
Mouser's are all 2x plate mount.use the 2x parts and have someone make a new wire like was done for the phantoms
OnlineComponents (http://www.onlinecomponents.com/cherry-electrical_g990742.html?p=11075025) carries the 2x PCB mount.
Then you need to figure out what to do about the space bar.
It needs to be moved into the groupbuy subforum too. Get this party started. I don't want to see it take months and months, I want a better 60% like nao!
Okay, neeb, I updated the first post. :D
I think we will get at least 100 orders, if not more.
My body is ready. Let's do this.(http://i.imgur.com/fc5TW.jpg)
I'll take one as well.
Will it be possible to use a normal right shift instead of the shorter one? I want it as normal as possible so I can use it with normal key caps.
I'm still in for one either way.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II using Tapatalk.
I'd love to put my name down for one, only thing holding me back is the proposed smaller right shift and it not being the normal 2.75 width..The smaller right shift is just an option. The other option is normal 2.75 shift. It's you to decide by soldering the switch in the right place.
Anyone have pictures of nice ISO 60% boards, if they exist? Considering getting this in my first ISO layout...
Anyone have pictures of nice ISO 60% boards, if they exist? Considering getting this in my first ISO layout...
Anyone have pictures of nice ISO 60% boards, if they exist? Considering getting this in my first ISO layout...
There's a thread for that...It's called the KS Mini. :P
Doesn't exist in ISO. There is no small ISO board at all unfortunately, so these things are our only hope.
Ok, well as long as it is small and ISO, it will still be the first ever to be made.
I am in for one if that wasn't obvious by now.
... Like you said, it will be the very first (that I know of, anyway) 60% board with ISO layout.
There are none. That is why this one is so great.(http://i.imgur.com/hKXEH.gif)
I'll take one as well.
Will it be possible to use a normal right shift instead of the shorter one? I want it as normal as possible so I can use it with normal key caps.
I'm still in for one either way.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II using Tapatalk.
Yeah, you can use a normal right shift :D That may not be clear in the first post but it was asked and answered toward the end of this thread:I'd love to put my name down for one, only thing holding me back is the proposed smaller right shift and it not being the normal 2.75 width..The smaller right shift is just an option. The other option is normal 2.75 shift. It's you to decide by soldering the switch in the right place.
Hmmm. Could make a board with green switches/led, use CCnG caps, get a green cable and paint a case green/buy a green aluminum one?
In here, too.
Interested for a long time now, might as well state it here.Thanks for reminding me to get in 7bit's switch buy!
I just hope I will have money when the GB is coming up.
Also, if it saves shipping, I would propose a distributor in Europe for all the folks over there.
(now going to advertise this project in Germany :D )
Hmmm. Could make a board with green switches/led, use CCnG caps, get a green cable and paint a case green/buy a green aluminum one?
In here, too.
Hmm sounds like my poker with ghetto greens, CCnG, green cable and green aluminum case. Only difference is no LEDs!
Also, if it saves shipping, I would propose a distributor in Europe for all the folks over there.
(now going to advertise this project in Germany )
I guess i am interested, too :D
I was dreaming of an ISO Poker just this morning...
Also, if it saves shipping, I would propose a distributor in Europe for all the folks over there.
(now going to advertise this project in Germany )
It looks like I will take care of the distribution, so Europe is not a problem.
America either, shipping is rather cheap, if you don't want tracking.
Sorry for the delays again, I had some stuff to do.
I don't want to promise another term of making the prototype. I'll try as soon as I can.
I am sure it wouldn't take much to modify a poker PCB to and ISO. I guess you would need to be able to program the ROM, or add a teensy controller, though. Actually yeah, it would be a lot of work :pInstalling a new controller and reprogramming it is the easiest part.
I could do US distributing since I'll be handling the plates (as far as I know).
quick question, and im sorry in advance if this has been asked and answered before, but i would really like to save myself an hour of reading.
Will the PCB come with the teensy installed? and as far as i am aware, the plate mount we are going to use DOES allow for switch swapping WITHOUT desoldering, right?
Correct. I tried to explain as much in the updated OP, but maybe I wasn't clear enough. The PCB will be produced with the electronics, to include the ATmega32u4 controller chip and any diodes, already installed by the fabrication house. The only soldering required will be when you mount your own switches in the board.
Any plate design we choose will incorporate the cutouts on the sides for removal of the switch housing cover without desoldering from the PCB.
I think we will be selling PCB and plate as separate units, so you could purchase only one or the other, or different combinations of them.
We won't be selling switches, cases, stabilizers, LEDs, keycaps, or anything else. You will have to source those yourself, if you don't already have them.
I'm not sure if this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34959.msg653479#msg653479) diagram is sitll relevant (or the one further down that page) but they both show PCB mounting pins for the switches so I want to double check; this is going to take both PCB and plate mounted switches/stabs, right?Yes
Correct. I tried to explain as much in the updated OP, but maybe I wasn't clear enough. The PCB will be produced with the electronics, to include the ATmega32u4 controller chip and any diodes, already installed by the fabrication house. The only soldering required will be when you mount your own switches in the board.Actually, maybe switches and stabilizers wouldn't be a bad idea. There maybe some who don't want to solder, and I can handle it. That will depend on how many people are interested in getting it presoldered with switches.
Any plate design we choose will incorporate the cutouts on the sides for removal of the switch housing cover without desoldering from the PCB.
I think we will be selling PCB and plate as separate units, so you could purchase only one or the other, or different combinations of them.
We won't be selling switches, cases, stabilizers, LEDs, keycaps, or anything else. You will have to source those yourself, if you don't already have them.
Quick question: when the right shift is 1.75u instead of 2.75u, it doesn't need a stabilizer, right?correct
Bardzo ładne.Dziękuję;)
FYI, if your name didn't make it into the interest list in the OP, don't feel bad. I have a lot going on right now, and wading through this thread to update the interest list is not high on the priority list.
It doesn't really matter, anyway, since we definitely have enough interest to proceed with the group buy. We will open a thread in the Group Buy subforum once we have a prototype tested and ready to go with the full orders. This thread was just to get things moving, so that we could gauge what everyone wanted, and make this happen.
I would like to thank everyone for their interest and support. Hopefully, this will be a huge success, and people will get the keyboard they have been hoping for, e.g. first ever ISO-layout 60% keyboard.
We will open a thread in the Group Buy subforum once we have a prototype tested and ready to go with the full orders.I hope this takes at least a month or I am forced to sell stuff to get money for this :/
I hope this takes at least a month or I am forced to sell stuff to get money for this :/
I'm interested. Just want something programmable so I can have my Colemak layout on the go without any fuss. :)
Will there be a run of cases to go with these boards?
Beast, isnt your plate for this going to be compatible for the pure aswell?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nEYo6.png)Show Image(http://piclair.com/data/eg76d.jpg)
Will there be a run of cases to go with these boards?
Just get a OEM poker case, oneproduct, treble or imsto case. They should all work with this
Beast, isnt your plate for this going to be compatible for the pure aswell?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nEYo6.png)Show Image(http://piclair.com/data/eg76d.jpg)
FYI the first pic wouldn't work with a pure since the pure has 4 1.25 mods on the left. That pic as only 3 mods on the left
Nope, the one I'm running currently is just for the poker. You could modify it to fit the pure, but it's not designed for the pure
Show ImageWill there be a run of cases to go with these boards?
Just get a OEM poker case, oneproduct, treble or imsto case. They should all work with this
Easier said that done. imsto only runs the GB at certain times and in rounds. The last round is over, and we're not even sure if he'll do additional rounds in the future. treble is still MIA, not sure when his CNC machines will be up running again. And lastly, to use an OEM poker/pure case, we're expected to spend $100+ for the whole keyboard just for the case?
Maybe I can design one for CNC out of aluminum, thick and with brass plates to add even more weight to it. Something like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/pokercase1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/pokercase1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/pokercase2.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/pokercase2.jpg)
From treble's thread, he's saying that they hope to be back going by November. I doubt this will be completed by then so why add another thing to the process right now?
Beast, isnt your plate for this going to be compatible for the pure aswell?
snip
FYI the first pic wouldn't work with a pure since the pure has 4 1.25 mods on the left. That pic as only 3 mods on the left
Nope, the one I'm running currently is just for the poker. You could modify it to fit the pure, but it's not designed for the pure
NOt sure you understood me.
You are going to make a plate for this GH60 board, yes?
The GH60 schematic is the one in my post.
Beneath it is a KBT Pure.
THey are the same?
SO this plate of yours will fit not only GH60, but also Pure?
As far as the plates go, that is really up to The_Beast how many options he wants to include. But I think we should try to keep it to about four options, like the Phantom GB was, in order to lessen confusion and to make things easier for everyone. I was thinking ANSI winkey (Poker replica), ANSI winkeyless, ISO winkey, and ISO winkeyless. Anyone wanting another layout, such as the 1.75 right shift, or the lysol bottom row, could either just do it with PCB mount switches, or they could order a specific plate on a case-by-case basis after the GB is completed.
As long as:
1. dwg is provided to me
2. You understand that one phantom plate won't net you any discounts vs 70 poker plates
I'll run any plate. BTW I'll be pm'ing lister soon about running phantom plates. I should be able to run this GB after my poker GB wraps up and pick up the plates sometime during my Christmas break (after Dec. 23rd and almost all of January). If I runs later than that, it shouldn't be a huge issue, but that's when it's most convenient to me.
As long as:
1. dwg is provided to me
2. You understand that one phantom plate won't net you any discounts vs 70 poker plates
I'll run any plate. BTW I'll be pm'ing lister soon about running phantom plates. I should be able to run this GB after my poker GB wraps up and pick up the plates sometime during my Christmas break (after Dec. 23rd and almost all of January). If I runs later than that, it shouldn't be a huge issue, but that's when it's most convenient to me.
I only mentioned Phantom as comparison for having four plate options available. Otherwise someone (not me) is going to have to design plates for every conceivable option that exists on the PCB for mounting. Sorry for the confusion. :P
How much for that switch top remover? I need one!
The problem with adding some things like 2 1x keys in the backspace spot, or 2.25-1.75-2.25 for spacebar, is that you then run into problems with holes for the switch mounts and stabilizers.
The layout that komar007 has done (thanks so much, by the way!) is practically complete and ready to send to the fabrication house for prototyping, and will satisfy 98% of what everyone wants, I believe. Remember, you can please all of the people some of the time, and some of the people all of the time, but you can't please all of the people all of the time. :P
HHKB Pro 2 • Black lab. iNcoming.
When is this interest check going to be reality? :DIf this ends up being anything like the original Phantom GB, then I suggest grabbing a 2013 calendar, spreading all of the pages on ground, blindfolding yourself, turning around three times, and then going and finding some other project to follow.
komar is about to send the PCB files to the fab to have a prototype made for testing. I think The_Beast can help us out with a prototype plate.
If its stainless steel im in!komar is about to send the PCB files to the fab to have a prototype made for testing. I think The_Beast can help us out with a prototype plate.
Once I get done with the poker GB, I'd be more than willing to run the plates or even cases if someone designs one (I'm working on one kind of)
I was going to order the prototypes today, but only 2 of 3 people who wanted them have written back to me.
So I'm going to order tommorrow, I'll take 4 anyway.
If anyone else wants a no-guarantee prototype, let me know asap.
It's a bit over $30 + $5 for usb connector, diodes and crystal, because they may be hard to get. The rest of components are easily available.
I was going to order the prototypes today, but only 2 of 3 people who wanted them have written back to me.PM sent!
So I'm going to order tommorrow, I'll take 4 anyway.
If anyone else wants a no-guarantee prototype, let me know asap.
It's a bit over $30 + $5 for usb connector, diodes and crystal, because they may be hard to get. The rest of components are easily available.
We need a good testing pool to make sure any issues are spotted with different layouts and configuration. Looks like we hopefully have that. I plan to do my proposed layout. Can't wait.Great. That was the point of this prototype.
Won't hurt my feelings if it doesn't work. I love being a beta-tester.No, there's no way anyone will run a production of 7 devices;)
Since you mentioned that all the SMD stuff will be soldered on at the factory, does this also apply for these prototypes? I'm assuming by "including usb connector, diodes and crystal", we don't need to source the ATmega32u4 controller chip?
Hmn... sh!t. No way I can solder smd myself. I am not that good at the tiny stuff, will surely ruin it.We'll see what can be done;)
We need a good testing pool to make sure any issues are spotted with different layouts and configuration. Looks like we hopefully have that. I plan to do my proposed layout. Can't wait.I have a proposed layout as well anyone willing to code it up for me? or do you think the firmware for my phantom could just be edited?
Thanks komar. Let me know extra cost if you will be doing parts and partial assembly.
I'll make sure the beta testers will have firmware to test their layouts.We need a good testing pool to make sure any issues are spotted with different layouts and configuration. Looks like we hopefully have that. I plan to do my proposed layout. Can't wait.I have a proposed layout as well anyone willing to code it up for me? or do you think the firmware for my phantom could just be edited?
Yeah no problem, I was just wondering if they were going to do it at factory. I don't have a problem with doing SMD soldering though. I have a hot air rework station and solder paste for that ;) . It'll be more convenient to include all the SMD stuff though since you'll have to build your own anways, might as well order extra for all the prototypes too.Won't hurt my feelings if it doesn't work. I love being a beta-tester.No, there's no way anyone will run a production of 7 devices;)
Since you mentioned that all the SMD stuff will be soldered on at the factory, does this also apply for these prototypes? I'm assuming by "including usb connector, diodes and crystal", we don't need to source the ATmega32u4 controller chip?
But I can send you all the parts instead of some if you want to.
Are the PCBs going to be screen printed. I was looking at the phantom boards and they have key locations and all the people who helped on the project. I think that would be an awesome idea for this PCB too if it doesn't cost too much. (komar gets lead spot for being boss)I want to leave the top side completely empty, so that it looks nice.
Yeah no problem, I was just wondering if they were going to do it at factory. I don't have a problem with doing SMD soldering though. I have a hot air rework station and solder paste for that ;) . It'll be more convenient to include all the SMD stuff though since you'll have to build your own anways, might as well order extra for all the prototypes too.Good, that's less soldering for me;)
I think you should ship all the prototypes to one person since it looks like we're all from the US. Less hassle and cheaper for you. Then it can be distributed. If no one volunteers, then I'm willing to do US distributing, and maybe solder some of them too while I'm at it.We can do it. Though it depends on shipping rates within US. I can send them for $6 each.
All project files are on github: https://github.com/komar007/ghkbI think I was looking for something closer to this that I found in the main post
I am getting excited for the final release :DI am actually wondering if there will be a plate fore the prototype, I am guessing not so far. If the prototype works correctly though I would like to get one cut either where I got my custom Phantom plates or through The_Beast would you be up for designing one Komar?
Is there a minimum amount of people required before a certain plate will be made?
I think I was looking for something closer to this that I found in the main post
(http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png) (http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png)
would you happen to be able to make one with a short right shift and short enter and a bottom row that allows for both a win and a menu key (i think thats the blue lines). Also does theis keyboard only support a 7x spacebar?
Having not done SMD before really (besides big SMD diodes) I dont know if im up for soldering this prototype my self as I dont have a hot air station only a Hakko 888.If WhiteFireDragon agrees, maybe I'll solder lysol's board, and he can do yours.
I am actually wondering if there will be a plate fore the prototype, I am guessing not so far. If the prototype works correctly though I would like to get one cut either where I got my custom Phantom plates or through The_Beast would you be up for designing one Komar?
O my bad i though you made an option to have somrthing like this enter on my phantomI think I was looking for something closer to this that I found in the main post
(http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png) (http://i.imgur.com/H6fvq.png)
would you happen to be able to make one with a short right shift and short enter and a bottom row that allows for both a win and a menu key (i think thats the blue lines). Also does theis keyboard only support a 7x spacebar?
What's a short enter? vertical iso?
There's 6.25 spacebar support for standard 3x1.25, space, 4x1.25 mod and 7 for model m and lysol layout.Having not done SMD before really (besides big SMD diodes) I dont know if im up for soldering this prototype my self as I dont have a hot air station only a Hakko 888.If WhiteFireDragon agrees, maybe I'll solder lysol's board, and he can do yours.I am actually wondering if there will be a plate fore the prototype, I am guessing not so far. If the prototype works correctly though I would like to get one cut either where I got my custom Phantom plates or through The_Beast would you be up for designing one Komar?
Please contact The_Beast then. He does custom plates, as far as I remember.
If there are no errors, the production plates should also fit the prototype.
I'll help whoever gets to design the plates after I have the prototypes and confirm that they're ok.
TheProfosist, no your 1.25 enter scheme is not support on this pcb.may i ask how its not supported the reason i ask is there is already a switch there for ansi and next to is for ISO what is causing it not to work?
The switch for ISO is between rows 2 and 3. I'll see if one more switch will fit.TheProfosist, no your 1.25 enter scheme is not support on this pcb.may i ask how its not supported the reason i ask is there is already a switch there for ansi and next to is for ISO what is causing it not to work?
If it can o wells ill just have to come up with a new layout that doesnt rely on that.The switch for ISO is between rows 2 and 3. I'll see if one more switch will fit.TheProfosist, no your 1.25 enter scheme is not support on this pcb.may i ask how its not supported the reason i ask is there is already a switch there for ansi and next to is for ISO what is causing it not to work?
EDIT: it will
TheProfosist, this PCB supports all the layout options that you prefer as shown, with the one exception of the 1.25 enter.:( yea must have been something special about the Phantom PCB and the DOX im working on was built to my specs so thats why it has it so no biggie ill just have to come up with a new layout which is something that I enjoy doing I thought i would just try to get my keyboards to be as close as possible layout wise to each other.
I don't really want to draw the plates, komar should be able to make them relatively easy since he has the the dimensionsAlright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Well, I see no problem adding that switch for 1.25 enter.well is up to you if you want to add it I have already thought up and idea for arrows for the current layout that utilizes the short right shift and RWin, Menu, and RCtrl, which might be nice to try out.
Will having such as switch holes where the pcb mount stabilizer should go on ansi enter make a problem?i thihnk that would be a problem if you ask me but i didnt design the PCB
***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
ok just thought i would ask I <3 SS anyways ;)***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Aluminum 2712
Brass - casting 8400 - 8700
Stainless Steel 7480 - 8000
SS is about as dense as brass. I don't think that guy does brass or if brass even comes in sheets like he would need
ok just thought i would ask I <3 SS anyways ;)***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Aluminum 2712
Brass - casting 8400 - 8700
Stainless Steel 7480 - 8000
SS is about as dense as brass. I don't think that guy does brass or if brass even comes in sheets like he would need
your the best beast!ok just thought i would ask I <3 SS anyways ;)***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Aluminum 2712
Brass - casting 8400 - 8700
Stainless Steel 7480 - 8000
SS is about as dense as brass. I don't think that guy does brass or if brass even comes in sheets like he would need
I was designing a case with weights like sherries. Then when I went to change materials I saw they hay nearly the same density. BTW the poker case I made was 5.25 lbs and I still had one more layer of stainless to add ^___^
your the best beast!ok just thought i would ask I <3 SS anyways ;)***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Aluminum 2712
Brass - casting 8400 - 8700
Stainless Steel 7480 - 8000
SS is about as dense as brass. I don't think that guy does brass or if brass even comes in sheets like he would need
I was designing a case with weights like sherries. Then when I went to change materials I saw they hay nearly the same density. BTW the poker case I made was 5.25 lbs and I still had one more layer of stainless to add ^___^
awesome would love to have a all SS case for the final of this board.your the best beast!ok just thought i would ask I <3 SS anyways ;)***snip all dat***
Alright sounds good. If this prototype turns out to work great ill ask Komar about a plate file. That reminds me can you make plates out of anything heavier than stainless?
Aluminum 2712
Brass - casting 8400 - 8700
Stainless Steel 7480 - 8000
SS is about as dense as brass. I don't think that guy does brass or if brass even comes in sheets like he would need
I was designing a case with weights like sherries. Then when I went to change materials I saw they hay nearly the same density. BTW the poker case I made was 5.25 lbs and I still had one more layer of stainless to add ^___^
If my guy can do 1/4" stainless...... (I'll be asking next email ;D)
Okay,
unfortunately some people jumped off, so we have six now:
Great!
I only need your money! :D
To the people who are in for prototype pcbs: I'll pay first, and then collect money.
That's why I trust that you won't jump off the list anymore. I'll tell you when I'm paying so you know when not to jump off anymore.
EDIT:
current list:
komar007
jdcarpe
kmiller8
TheProfosist
WhiteFireDragon
lysol
__red__
I'm sorry to inform that the price of PCB went up by $3:(
I've calculated the price of the parts and it's $10.
So the current official price of the DIY prototype (PCB + smd parts) is $43.
Shipping is $8 for the whole package to one of you in the US, who will later distribute the sets.
I'm currently doing minor enhancements in the crystal layout, then I'll add the 1.25 enter support and hopefully I can order within a day or two.
or ask someone really nicely to solder yours.Great!
I only need your money! :D
To the people who are in for prototype pcbs: I'll pay first, and then collect money.
That's why I trust that you won't jump off the list anymore. I'll tell you when I'm paying so you know when not to jump off anymore.
EDIT:
current list:
komar007
jdcarpe
kmiller8
TheProfosist
WhiteFireDragon
lysol
__red__
I'm sorry to inform that the price of PCB went up by $3:(
I've calculated the price of the parts and it's $10.
So the current official price of the DIY prototype (PCB + smd parts) is $43.
Shipping is $8 for the whole package to one of you in the US, who will later distribute the sets.
I'm currently doing minor enhancements in the crystal layout, then I'll add the 1.25 enter support and hopefully I can order within a day or two.
So to be in on the prototype we'd have to be pretty good at soldering on a very small scale?
Add me to the prototype list, but for an ISO layout, can you cover off an ISO plate?Cover off? Also I dont think plates are being made for teh prototype ill only be getting one if the thing works perfectly I think my case for the prototype will still end up being cardboard ;)
Fine with the cardboard case, but making sure everything fits well with the plate is worth doing. Fine with the soldering side, just being from the other side of the water, having a compact ISO board is something we're really lacking.well the_beast will make any dxf you throw at him so id ask komar if he can make a plate that fits your layout i would have a pic for hime kinda like i made above
Fine with the cardboard case, but making sure everything fits well with the plate is worth doing. Fine with the soldering side, just being from the other side of the water, having a compact ISO board is something we're really lacking.well the_beast will make any dxf you throw at him so id ask komar if he can make a plate that fits your layout i would have a pic for hime kinda like i made above
o my bad the last place i went wanted dxf i believeFine with the cardboard case, but making sure everything fits well with the plate is worth doing. Fine with the soldering side, just being from the other side of the water, having a compact ISO board is something we're really lacking.well the_beast will make any dxf you throw at him so id ask komar if he can make a plate that fits your layout i would have a pic for hime kinda like i made above
dwg is preferred since I don't have to convert the dxf to dwg when I get it (ie I have to walk to the student center to convert)
Hehe I am reverse from you guys. I am more concerned with does it work without the plate since I have no interest in having one if I don't have to.
Your right, sorry thought someone would have done an ISO version. Anyone have the phantom ISO plate file?contact biphiany if you want Phantom Plate files
Wouldn't be too different to yours, just the Jret and short left shift.Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/1/19/PHISO125.jpg/600px-PHISO125.jpg)
dirge, these are definitely going to have a plate available (several layouts, actually) when we get to the group buy phase. These prototype boards are just so a few of us can test them and make sure everything works. I will be using some pcb mount brown switches I have for my prototype, so I can try some different layouts.are the pcb mount holes in the pcb?
dirge, these are definitely going to have a plate available (several layouts, actually) when we get to the group buy phase. These prototype boards are just so a few of us can test them and make sure everything works. I will be using some pcb mount brown switches I have for my prototype, so I can try some different layouts.are the pcb mount holes in the pcb?
yes i completely understand but if it does if i would like to outfit it as completely as possible Ill probably contact WASD for some basic caps for testinghopefully I can get them on the cheap.dirge, these are definitely going to have a plate available (several layouts, actually) when we get to the group buy phase. These prototype boards are just so a few of us can test them and make sure everything works. I will be using some pcb mount brown switches I have for my prototype, so I can try some different layouts.are the pcb mount holes in the pcb?
Most definitely. Thanks to komar's beautiful design!
On a related note, anyone buying one of these proto boards should please be aware that these are not guaranteed to even function. We may get them and find that half the keys don't work or something. I don't expect that to happen, but it's the risk we testers are taking to get these made and tested. Everyone else should wait for the group buy for a finished product.
Purple PCB, white text
get that naow
Purple PCB, white text
get that naow
Would lurv a purple pcb...
So we have 8 people now:
komar007
jdcarpe
kmiller8
TheProfosist
WhiteFireDragon
lysol
__red__
dirge
As for plates, I'll think about them after sending the prototype PCB for production.
I think I'll order with matte black soldermask. Should look nice.
Great work! I missed great progress of this project these days.I'll order as many as necessary
Number of this prototype PCB will be 10? If so, I guess extra still is available.
I'll take a set out of its extra if my purchase mitigates your expense of prototyping.
* The set comes with no warranty. Although the probability that it won't work at all is rather low, the reason for prototyping is to fix errors, including the bad ones. If you're concerned about the correctness of the prototype, you can download the project and take a look, maybe you'll spot bugs before production (https://github.com/komar007/ghkb).
* Shipping to Japan should be about $11.
...
* Shipping to the US is $8-$10, to be split among US buyers. US distribution is up to you.
...
WhiteFireDragon has already voluneered, since he will also solder some of the kits.
But thanks for the proposition anyway;)
LOL....well, thats just too obvious. I check the various sources and none seem to have browns or reds...MX1A-G1xx7bit still has some leftovers from the last group buy: http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760-360.html (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760-360.html)
Looks like blacks or blues, maybe clears.
You can always get a refurb CM Storm QuickFire Rapid for $50 and harvest the 87 blue switches from it. Or look on eBay for other used MX switch boards, such as the Compaq MX 11800, etc. and harvest switches from them.
Is it too late to gen in on a prototype PCB? If not I'll just wait for the final product.I was going to order yesterday, but I didn't, so I'll add you.
I can only assume the inquires about my browns mostly spawned from my post in this thread, so I will just update the quantity here. I currently have 213 available loose and ready to ship, with up to 240 more when I get around to desoldering them.
Those that have dibs on whatever they need first
komar007
whitefiredragon
engicoder
then anyone else on prototype list, then any others.
It would be nice to make some gold plated geekhack logo as well as GH60 logo to put on the board.I plan to get WASD to put it on my spacebar just like I did for my Phantoms
Do you think I can uses images from here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=16022.0?
How many of these boards will be made? how many Prototypes will be made? Is there a price difference between them?I'm hoping to make about 50 final boards. The final boards will be more expensive, because of smd assembly.
As many as the number of people who want them +1.
I'll send information about payments very soon.How many of these boards will be made? how many Prototypes will be made? Is there a price difference between them?I'm hoping to make about 50 final boards. The final boards will be more expensive, because of smd assembly.
Sorry, no idea. I don't want to give estimates, so that I don't have to change them later.
Okay, I was aiming at $50 tag at the beginning, but I know it may be hard, mainly because of high assembly costs. We'll see.
Well, keycaps, naturally. But who doesn't have more sets of keycaps than keyboards to put them on? If not, you haven't been a member of Geekhack for very long. :P
I was thinking along the lines of the Korean custom group buys, which always come with a PCB, plate, and case.
"Invoices" sent.Man I got so busy I forgot about this. What is the prototype layout?
If you wanted a prototype and didn't get a PM, write to me.
The layout is whatever you make it.Thanks, PM sending; sorry for being late. Just going to do a somewhat Poker replica but with far better firmware.
jdcarpe, can you link the PCB layout file in the OP? (a png with a color per layer is fine) i'd like to check it over for a) sanity and to b) bucket list what i'll need to do to help test the proto
jdcarpe, can you link the PCB layout file in the OP? (a png with a color per layer is fine) i'd like to check it over for a) sanity and to b) bucket list what i'll need to do to help test the proto
You have a Filco Zero Ski? WTF? When did this happen?Yhea, I made a WTB in the Classifieds, and someone put me in touch with Diatec to purchase one of their last display units. I paid through the nose - and a week later one showed up for sale on DT for 30 euro :( I love it though, it's a wonderful board.
Sorry for the derailment.
That's quite selfless of you.I know there was a small demographic interested in the ISO option. It was actually the selling point for me. I love my Poker but it's awkward to type on.
Well, keycaps, naturally. But who doesn't have more sets of keycaps than keyboards to put them on? If not, you haven't been a member of Geekhack for very long. :PI've been here for a year and have yet to get a full cap set... :(
I was thinking along the lines of the Korean custom group buys, which always come with a PCB, plate, and case.
Well, keycaps, naturally. But who doesn't have more sets of keycaps than keyboards to put them on? If not, you haven't been a member of Geekhack for very long. :PI've been here for a year and have yet to get a full cap set... :(
I was thinking along the lines of the Korean custom group buys, which always come with a PCB, plate, and case.
Wanna sell me a set? :P
I'm using bleeding edge from the repo, cloned a few days ago.jdcarpe, can you link the PCB layout file in the OP? (a png with a color per layer is fine) i'd like to check it over for a) sanity and to b) bucket list what i'll need to do to help test the proto
Better yet, link the github with all the PCB files up to date https://github.com/komar007/ghkb
EDIT: KiCad keeps telling me I'm using an old version of pcbnew, what version are you using :s
I want Beasts stainless case hands down!
well come on do it ;)I want Beasts stainless case hands down!
I still need to ask my laser guy if he can cut 1/4" stainless or aluminum. If not, I'll talk to my waterjet guy, he should be able to cut stuff up to 1/2" no matter the material with a super nice edge quality
What about a 3d printed case?
Actually you can print metal, the Swedish guy was going to print Ti spacebars n stuffWhat about a 3d printed case?
I haven't seen any good 3d printed cases :'(
Here are the current pcb files.
I am not a professional electronics designer, so if you have any knowledge or know someone who has, please comment or show it to someone to help fix errors before prototype production.
I'm attaching a zip with gerbers, schematic and renders of both sides.
Top side:
(Attachment Link)
Bottom side:
(Attachment Link)
jdcarpe, could you update the OP with this package and replace the current render?
the plate is integrated with the case to hold up the PCB instead of having standoffs that's pushing the PCB up.
What happened to all the other guys that know how to work CAD programs?Well, it seems as more CAD guys aren't necessary at this point since several have volunteered already, which is why I didn't.
I dont think you can print metalYes you can. I have examples of key caps I printed in my thread.
When this board is completed can we get the Gerber's for the community?
I meant once it is completely done, the final designs etc.When this board is completed can we get the Gerber's for the community?
The gerbers are in the rev A zip file.
I meant once it is completely done, the final designs etc.When this board is completed can we get the Gerber's for the community?
The gerbers are in the rev A zip file.
Sweet badge Red!Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/28/bu2abajy.jpg)Thanjs...
Btw, if anyone is interested in the badge re-work we did at the con, please follow.
ditto. cool beans!Sweet badge Red!Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/28/bu2abajy.jpg)Thanjs...
Btw, if anyone is interested in the badge re-work we did at the con, please follow.
So, I was looking at the PCB...Does this have the ability to use regular ANSI Right Shifts, or must you use an Fn key?you should be using that Fn key! Custom Layouts Only!
I'll make my 1unit keys a Fn key. I love the aesthetics of a 1.5-1 type deal:)So, I was looking at the PCB...Does this have the ability to use regular ANSI Right Shifts, or must you use an Fn key?you should be using that Fn key! Custom Layouts Only!
I just noticed something about the holes for the Cherry mounted stabilizers. Are there two different PCB-mounted parts we can buy? because all the holes for the smaller size stabilizers (shifts, backspace, and enter) has the larger hole on the bottom, while the larger hole for the spacebar stabilizers are on the top.The spacebar has the stabilizer upside down, like in the poker.
the light is a ways out; the driver ICs we are thinking of sourcing have a 1k MOQ at 5$/ea shipped from germany, and that's just the beginning of the set of issues that project faces.Oof. There has to be a better way to drive the LEDs.
Any chance that we make a full-board LEDs supported PCB? ^.^also working on DOX v2 will have that finalizing the plate now didnt want to say too much in this thead about it beacause the boards are very close to each other.
It's a bug, or actually a feature of kicad. It requires actual tracks between everything and doesn't care for planes.
I've changed the layout a bit in the current version, so P6 is actually wired to ground.
The_Beast, you can use the ANSI150 plate drawing from the Phantom designs to get the 1.5-1-1.5 layout. Then just block the 1x between the 1.5's.
The real problem I forsee using standard ANSI with 1.5-1-1.5 mod row on the plate, with covers over the 1x keys on the case top, is what to do about a function key? I guess you could use a 1.75 right shift with a Fn key beside it, but that defeats the purpose of the standard ANSI compatibility. I will probably use that 1x key between the 1.5 mods as a Fn key.
Even if you first put a ground plane, then connect some GND point with a trace to that plane, then save, restart pcbnew and refill the zone?
DEMIKBEAR!
I'm not sure so I'll ask:Yes
if the bottom row is 1.5 1 1.5 spacebar 1.5 1 1.5, then the spacebar will be 7 unit right?
Well it shouldnt be much different as the model m version just minus the flaps to cover the unused spots
DEMIKDEMIKBEAR!
WAT!?!?!?!?
DEMIKDEMIKBEAR!
WAT!?!?!?!?
BEAR
!!?!>!!?>
Does anyone know where I could pick up a 7 unit spacebar for testing once the prototype comes in? I have the caps/switches for everything else, but finding one of those is more difficult and I'm really not feeling like buying a whole keyboard for a single spacebar.http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/doubleshot-replacements-round-4-t1376-2910.html#p80676 (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/doubleshot-replacements-round-4-t1376-2910.html#p80676)
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/doubleshot-replacements-round-4-t1376-2910.html#p80676 (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/doubleshot-replacements-round-4-t1376-2910.html#p80676)
Here.
TL;DR
Can the standard ansi right shift be used instead of the 1800+fn key?
I also want a prototype :(
TL;DR
Can the standard ansi right shift be used instead of the 1800+fn key?
I also want a prototype :(
Yup, it can handle pretty much any alpha/num area layout imaginable in terms of modifiers.
TL;DRSorry, the prototype list is closed.
Can the standard ansi right shift be used instead of the 1800+fn key?
I also want a prototype :(
There will be a GUI to set the layout in runtime. Any help will be appreciated;)
As for firmware I have a custom base for it and I'll implement a layout model with layers and much more, hopefully.
There will be a GUI to set the layout in runtime. Any help will be appreciated;)
As for firmware I have a custom base for it and I'll implement a layout model with layers and much more, hopefully.
I do hope that this will be multi platform as I use Linux and FreeBSD.
There will be a GUI to set the layout in runtime. Any help will be appreciated;)
As for firmware I have a custom base for it and I'll implement a layout model with layers and much more, hopefully.
java runtimes are unfortunately a mess right now. i'd say python is the way to go, with either the pygtk or pyqt bindings. imo pygtk is cleanest right now but i don't deal with this stuff day in day out so if there are any experts out there pipe upThe micro can be flashed using stock DFU bootloader.
komar, how do you get flash access to the micro with your board layout? the micro needs to be user flashable regardless of whether the layout can be written via a HID driver
The GIMP uses GTK+ if I remember right, even on Windows.java runtimes are unfortunately a mess right now. i'd say python is the way to go, with either the pygtk or pyqt bindings. imo pygtk is cleanest right now but i don't deal with this stuff day in day out so if there are any experts out there pipe upThe micro can be flashed using stock DFU bootloader.
komar, how do you get flash access to the micro with your board layout? the micro needs to be user flashable regardless of whether the layout can be written via a HID driver
And yes, gtk is an option too. I actually prefer it, but I don't know how well it integrates with windows.
I don't really know much about gtk+, but it looks like it just needs to be compiled into an exe via mingw. Since Sun dosen't seem to do anything about java being a broken mess of security threat, it not even on my machines anymore. I think I would prefer it being not java too.ORACLE, SIR
Right, I keep forgetting. Either way...Either way, I'm in to help depending on when the work is done. Java/C++/Python, I don't care, code is code.
Each time I want to send this PCB project I find something else I can do better...we can wait komar, if you need some rerouting time. just submit for a netlist review before you send to press
I think it's time to stop.
__red__, can you and your script take a quick look?
I have no idea what anyone has been talking about in this whole page. I'll I want it to do is have multiple layers, hardware programmable buttons, works with Windows and a nice GUI if at all possible.
LoL. "Something passable"I have no idea what anyone has been talking about in this whole page. I'll I want it to do is have multiple layers, hardware programmable buttons, works with Windows and a nice GUI if at all possible.
If it's done in python I'm sure something passable can be thought up. I'll just have to wait and see what comes out in terms of firmware. Regardless, I'm sure the features you want will be available.
Cheers,
I have no idea what anyone has been talking about in this whole page. I'll I want it to do is have multiple layers, hardware programmable buttons, works with Windows and a nice GUI if at all possible.
If it's done in python I'm sure something passable can be thought up. I'll just have to wait and see what comes out in terms of firmware. Regardless, I'm sure the features you want will be available.
Cheers,
That's what I'm thinking. If I do this I have no idea where to start because I've never even seen what is expected out of a GUI for this so I fully intend to hack it to hell and back. If anyone has some idea of what they want it might be best to post ITT w/ pictures or sketches.LoL. "Something passable"I have no idea what anyone has been talking about in this whole page. I'll I want it to do is have multiple layers, hardware programmable buttons, works with Windows and a nice GUI if at all possible.Cheers,
That's what I'm thinking. If I do this I have no idea where to start because I've never even seen what is expected out of a GUI for this so I fully intend to hack it to hell and back. If anyone has some idea of what they want it might be best to post ITT w/ pictures or sketches.LoL. "Something passable"I have no idea what anyone has been talking about in this whole page. I'll I want it to do is have multiple layers, hardware programmable buttons, works with Windows and a nice GUI if at all possible.Cheers,
If it's done in python I'm sure something passable can be thought up. I'll just have to wait and see what comes out in terms of firmware. Regardless, I'm sure the features you want will be available.
I'm interested as long as the ISO 1.25 Winkey PCB + Plate goes through.I know on the prototypes that you have to solder the ATMega onto the board. With the final revision, I would assume that they fabricator will be soldering them on for us, though, I'd prefer to do it all myself. :P
BTW: what bootloader are you putting on those Atmels, or do we still need to program them and solder it to the PCB upon arrival?
to my knowledge the final will be all done by the factoryI'm interested as long as the ISO 1.25 Winkey PCB + Plate goes through.I know on the prototypes that you have to solder the ATMega onto the board. With the final revision, I would assume that they fabricator will be soldering them on for us, though, I'd prefer to do it all myself. :P
BTW: what bootloader are you putting on those Atmels, or do we still need to program them and solder it to the PCB upon arrival?
to my knowledge the final will be all done by the factoryor by me, if it appears too expensive;)
For programming, in my mind it would just be easiest with 2 keyboards hooked up. Press a key on the keyboard to program and it would bring up a question mark, then press a key on working keyboard that you want that to be. Move onto the next key and repeat until done. Save, then it would write. It's sort of like how the Access IS programming utility works, might look at that? It's kind of clunky but it works and is pretty dummy proof.True, and while everyone should have a second keyboard to do this with, it is far too limiting. FN layer comes to mind, how do you emulate a vol+ keypress if you don't have one? Short answer is you don't very easily.
I know that a fab would be easy to do this, but being able to do it all myself gives me some sort of sense of accomplishment. Plus, tis not like I don't have the gear with my dad's job of an EE. I have all the flux, solder and iron at home ready for my hackery, that I use quite often, thought be had.nice for prototyping, but as your dad well knows, when we kit it up, we'll want as few assembly steps as possible, and it's not a lot of added cost to get pick-n-place done at board fab time
Roger Kawa. I await the group buy. *twiddles thumbs*I know that a fab would be easy to do this, but being able to do it all myself gives me some sort of sense of accomplishment. Plus, tis not like I don't have the gear with my dad's job of an EE. I have all the flux, solder and iron at home ready for my hackery, that I use quite often, thought be had.nice for prototyping, but as your dad well knows, when we kit it up, we'll want as few assembly steps as possible, and it's not a lot of added cost to get pick-n-place done at board fab time
The Access IS utility also has a menu where you can select scancode. I am not a programmer, so it was only a suggestion. I don't really know how easy these things are, especially since it needs to be interacted with at a hardware level. I think Windows stuff may be a lot harder since all the driver signing type stuff, especially on x64 and from my experience with programmable boards, x86 only doesn't work on x64 for these things.
Keyboards do NOT send ASCII. They send keycodes. Those keycodes get interpreted differently depending on the settings of your OS.
Sent.sounds good hopefully there are not many corrections
Now I have to wait until Monday when they check it out and tell me what is wrong. Then I'll correct it, send again, then correct, etc. ;)
I'm only concerned about those switch holes which overlap. They may not like it and I'll have to change them into slots, like in Phantom.Sent.sounds good hopefully there are not many corrections
Now I have to wait until Monday when they check it out and tell me what is wrong. Then I'll correct it, send again, then correct, etc. ;)
very likely. if we have to slot though we have to slot :PI'm only concerned about those switch holes which overlap. They may not like it and I'll have to change them into slots, like in Phantom.Sent.sounds good hopefully there are not many corrections
Now I have to wait until Monday when they check it out and tell me what is wrong. Then I'll correct it, send again, then correct, etc. ;)
The rest shouldn't be a problem.
That's an American construction method. In Europe, we make our houses out of brick.
That's an American construction method. In Europe, we make our houses out of brick.You aren't in Europe? LoL!
Which board-house are you using?pcbcart
Which board-house are you using?pcbcart
Building?????????Which board-house are you using?pcbcart
Damn they're expensive for boards... it makes sense to use them tho if they're more cost effective for pick and place.
(Need to finish building my pick and place machine)
It's not that bad, and I heard they're good quality.
Damn they're expensive for boards... it makes sense to use them tho if they're more cost effective for pick and place.
(Need to finish building my pick and place machine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230874735122 clearly.
Am I too late to be added to the list? :)For prototyping, yea. The GB hasn't started yet though, so you're in luck!
Building?????????Which board-house are you using?pcbcart
Damn they're expensive for boards... it makes sense to use them tho if they're more cost effective for pick and place.
(Need to finish building my pick and place machine)
Just a couple of questions:I would assume that it will work on Linux, not sure about programming it, but it will function.
1) How is it with linux and BSD support?
2) what is the assumed price?
I would assume that it will work on Linux, not sure about programming it, but it will function.It will work on Linux, that's for sure. Support for other systems will depend on whether other people who use them will help with development;D.
I believe the price for the PCB and plate was supposed to be around $60 IIRC.Seems legit, but we'll see.
It will work on Linux, that's for sure. Support for other systems will depend on whether other people who use them will help with development;D.
That's as for programming. As for typing it has to work on everything out of the box, of course.
When/How do we provide shipping info?For US-based testers, please settle the costs and all shipping info with WhiteFireDragon. For sure he'll inform you about everything once he gets the PCBs.
Also, I've was wondering if it's possible to add in the options of having 2 keys where the backspace is (like in the HHKB).I'll have to check if it's easily doable. It may require some matrix changes.
I have a question. Is it going to be a fully programmable keyboard? I want a keyboard to remember my layout. I'm sick of installing my layout every time I type on other computer.
Great!! I will definitely buy one or two.I have a question. Is it going to be a fully programmable keyboard? I want a keyboard to remember my layout. I'm sick of installing my layout every time I type on other computer.
Yes.
Cheers,
Great!! I will definitely buy one or two.I have a question. Is it going to be a fully programmable keyboard? I want a keyboard to remember my layout. I'm sick of installing my layout every time I type on other computer.
Yes.
Cheers,
^ I'm no big fan of painted keycaps but I must admit that the more I see this green and purple, the more I like it.
pretty neat, nice job here
Also, I've was wondering if it's possible to add in the options of having 2 keys where the backspace is (like in the HHKB).
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/hypermicro-and-hypermini-keyboard-t4185.htmlThats been posted on GH before but I believe to be completely different than what were trying to accomplish.
For instance, we plan on getting it done.:thumbs:
Thats been posted on GH before but I believe to be completely different than what were trying to accomplish.Oh, I forgot the Hyper thingies are plans for a full 104 keyboard with some sort of Alps. My bad!
Thats not what im referring to I refering to that the GH60 is a community built project and that is and idea 7bit came up with to get rid of his extras...Thats been posted on GH before but I believe to be completely different than what were trying to accomplish.Oh, I forgot the Hyper thingies are plans for a full 104 keyboard with some sort of Alps. My bad!
So yeah, those two projects are so not alike!
Stupid me...
4 days $$ :-DThe bad news is the switches for going into DFU will come in 2 weeks.
I'd wait until we have tested all layouts at least. And we still don't have plates.Forgot about that. Gotcha, so ISO and ANSI and what else? The HHKB layout etc?
4 days $$ :-DThe bad news is the switches for going into DFU will come in 2 weeks.
If you really can't wait, I can substitute them with some others which match the footprint, but they won't be as nice;)
4 days $$ :-DThe bad news is the switches for going into DFU will come in 2 weeks.
If you really can't wait, I can substitute them with some others which match the footprint, but they won't be as nice;)
One of the advantage I have - I'm 45 mins from newark.com (Premier / Farnell / Element 14), one of the largest electronics suppliers in the world ;-)
I am now jealous. Not fair.
Although i do have sparkfun about that far from me. So life here has it's advantages.
Do we want people who are doing the prototypes to sign up for different board styles to make sure we get one of each at least?
Also, I got some PBT keycaps for the prototype, put them on my work keyboard temporarily to test them out and now I'm going to have to buy a new set because i like these so much. :(
Which one is the "standard"?
I want the one with the 1.5 mods and the 1 Super keys. That would be sweet!
Do we want people who are doing the prototypes to sign up for different board styles to make sure we get one of each at least?
I was just going to cut down the phantom iso plate to size. It's finding the time at the moment to do anything but post :)idk if spaceing is the same i know there was some talk about that in the beginning of the thread.
If someone who knows all the styles of layouts for the board could post them that would be really awesome. I've read through the entire thread and I'm still a little confused on which ones of the suggested layouts it supports.The third image in the first post tells everything you need.
If someone who knows all the styles of layouts for the board could post them that would be really awesome. I've read through the entire thread and I'm still a little confused on which ones of the suggested layouts it supports.The third image in the first post tells everything you need.
The plate shouldn't be too bad. The Phantom plates could be cut down (digitally) and they would work.
I want the one with the 1.5 mods and the 1 Super keys. That would be sweet!
The boards have come.
More info later:D
EDIT: a bit crap quality pics.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
The boards have come.
More info later:D
EDIT: a bit crap quality pics.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Is that matte black or is it just the photography?It is matte finish. I decided for it because I thought it looks cool. After I saw it I still think it does, but it catches fingerprints very easily and every scratch is very visible, so I think we may go with glossy for production. Maybe all the testers will just vote.
- 2 of 1x keys instead of the normal backspace to give backspace and deleteMaybe in the final version. Not in the prototype.
- Short left shift + a fn key as well as a short right shift + a fn keyYes.
We need to find a vendor to produce high quality cases, and start an IC/GB.
We need to find a vendor to produce high quality cases, and start an IC/GB.
I'm working on one.
Do we even have a time frame for when the GB will start?
We need to find a vendor to produce high quality cases, and start an IC/GB.
I'm working on one.
Do we even have a time frame for when the GB will start?
You too. ;)
Do you wanna join up on making it?
Is treb back in action? Thought they were still putting things back together.
I've got my case, switches, stabilizers and keycaps ready and waiting...
Beast, based on a quick skim of THIS (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37412.0) thread, you're designing the case to have multiple pieces and not CNC'ed from one solid block of aluminum?
Buy a cheap wyse PCB and I'll come solder with ya Ski. I want to try out this *****!
Buy a cheap wyse PCB and I'll come solder with ya Ski. I want to try out this *****!If you're serious I'm hitting eBay for a wyse board...
Awesome!!!!!Congrats!:D
2000 posts by the way:)
The reset microswitches are supposed to come between the 26th of November and the 2nd of December.
Then I can send the boards and they should take up to 2 weeks to ship.
Regards,
komar007
And thank you for your interest iMav. It's reassuring to have the official "seal of approval," as it were. :DI don't always have the time to keep up on everything...but, believe me, you definitely have my support.
Any 2x or larger key needs a Cherry PCB mount stab... since there is no plate design yet, that's the only option. onlinecomponents.com sells what you need in regard to 2x stabs, no one we've found sells space bar size stabs.
1/16" wire and a proper wire bender and you can make your own.
Digikey/Mouser/Onlinecomponents.com
Mouser's are all 2x plate mount.use the 2x parts and have someone make a new wire like was done for the phantoms
OnlineComponents carries the 2x PCB mount.
Then you need to figure out what to do about the space bar.
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/hypermicro-and-hypermini-keyboard-t4185.htmlThats been posted on GH before but I believe to be completely different than what were trying to accomplish.
Oh, I forgot the Hyper thingies are plans for a full 104 keyboard with some sort of Alps. My bad!Nope, I did think of that, but currently no plans are made for that.
So yeah, those two projects are so not alike!
Stupid me...
Thats not what im referring to I refering to that the GH60 is a community built project and that is and idea 7bit came up with to get rid of his extras...Can't see where the Hyper is not a community keyboard-family. I added a lot of input from others already including microswitches and pointing stick.
Long time voyer, first time poster - very keen!! Will be following this thread for details :)Same. This thing is very promising!
I apologize in advance, as I am sure the definitive answer to this question is somewhere in the 32 pages above.
If I am interpreting the current version of the OP drawings correctly, the bottom row can be configured as 1.25 x3, 6.25, 1.25 x4 as on a normal ANSI layout.
I know there was controversy about this issue, but it appears to remain true on the OP.
Can I use the normal ANSI row with seven 1.25 mods and a normal spacebar?
Thanks in advance!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Also as 1.50 mods: 1.5-1-1.5-7-1.5-1-1.5.
And as "lysol": 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1-1-1.5.That's an intriguing layout...
Yes, bottom row can be configured as standard ANSI. That would be 1.25-1.25-1.25-6.25-1.25-1.25-1.25-1.25.
Also as 1.50 mods: 1.5-1-1.5-7-1.5-1-1.5.
And as "lysol": 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1-1-1.5.
^^ GH60 2016? LolI'll be a sophomore in college by then... DEAR GOD NO!
Make a KMAC type plate-case combo!
Early 2013 may be enough time to get treble involved to CNC cases for us. Designs are finished for those and it can be out of one of many types of material.
Early 2013 may be enough time to get treble involved to CNC cases for us. Designs are finished for those and it can be out of one of many types of material.Then we can have it powder coated too! The colors shall be ENDLESS!
Early 2013 may be enough time to get treble involved to CNC cases for us. Designs are finished for those and it can be out of one of many types of material.
True. Hopefully his shop is up and running smoothly. But it's possible they'll be pretty back logged for awhile.
Early 2013 may be enough time to get treble involved to CNC cases for us. Designs are finished for those and it can be out of one of many types of material.Then we can have it powder coated too! The colors shall be ENDLESS!
Early 2013 may be enough time to get treble involved to CNC cases for us. Designs are finished for those and it can be out of one of many types of material.Then we can have it powder coated too! The colors shall be ENDLESS!
Looking for cheap machine shops atm. I have so many things I need to try and get produced. I have sheet-based designs and milled designs for both GH60 and Phantom. The ones for the Phantom is just because I use the area above the arrow cluster and neither Vortex's nor MKC's allowed for it.Like this for a stick out?
On a side note, please make the plate stick out a bit from the PCB á la korean customs. It enables far cheaper mounting solutions.
Edit: The GH60 case differs from the Poker ones based on a request that certain layouts will want to cover up parts, winkeyless etc., and thus require a top cover.
Looking for cheap machine shops atm. I have so many things I need to try and get produced. I have sheet-based designs and milled designs for both GH60 and Phantom. The ones for the Phantom is just because I use the area above the arrow cluster and neither Vortex's nor MKC's allowed for it.Like this for a stick out?
On a side note, please make the plate stick out a bit from the PCB á la korean customs. It enables far cheaper mounting solutions.
Edit: The GH60 case differs from the Poker ones based on a request that certain layouts will want to cover up parts, winkeyless etc., and thus require a top cover.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/neBt1.jpg)
Lead? lol, no seriously. I like metal stuff.Make a KMAC type plate-case combo!
That would be pretty ballin. Lets make the case out of the most dense metal possible.
Wasnt best working on a stainless case? Id be interested in that.
thought u were laser cutting or waterjettingWasnt best working on a stainless case? Id be interested in that.
Yes and no. It's hard to find a place that will mill steel
Do you think we'll be able to use IMSTO Poker case along with Beast plate?
Very very interested! Sign me up!
I still want the files, which I'm sure Komar will release. Nonetheless, that is a HUGE driving point for me for this project. :)Which files do you want?
Very very interested! Sign me up!
No need to collect names of interested people any longer. We have more than enough interest to proceed. Keep an eye on this thread to find out the status of this project and when to expect a group buy.
And Welcome to Geekhack!
Do we have some final dimensions on the plates?
wfd, can you please start getting shipping logistics ready so we can get these prototypes on the grill quickly?
That gives the approximate dimensions of the plate, not accounting for shinanigans along the edges or the amount of clearance there will be around the edges.
But if you are designing a case, you design it with an integrated plate.
wfd, can you please start getting shipping logistics ready so we can get these prototypes on the grill quickly?
But if you are designing a case, you design it with an integrated plate.
Well I see 2 options to design the plates. One option is to make it like Beast's current poker plate, in which case the PCB does all the support from the standoffs at the bottom, which the plate only prevents flexing (and makes it feel more solid). A plate like this allows you to use stock poker/pure plastic cases, oneproduct's, imsto's, and trebs' existing cases. The 2nd option is to design the plate similar to KMAC, where there are tabs on the plate that does all the support in holding up the plate and PCB. If you make a plate like this, then everyone will be forced to also get a custom case to go along with it because it won't be compatible with stock and current aluminum cases.
What do you want me to really do? komar hasn't even gotten all the parts yet to ship all prototype stuff to me. I guess I can start looking at shipping supplies, but hard to estimate and ask for shipping money until I get the stuff.overestimate. you know the approximate dimensions so 1.5x and go. it's cool if our reshipping costs are a little suboptimal. THE POWER OF GRAYSKULL IS IN YOUR HANDS WFD
But if you are designing a case, you design it with an integrated plate.
Well I see 2 options to design the plates. One option is to make it like Beast's current poker plate, in which case the PCB does all the support from the standoffs at the bottom, which the plate only prevents flexing (and makes it feel more solid). A plate like this allows you to use stock poker/pure plastic cases, oneproduct's, imsto's, and trebs' existing cases. The 2nd option is to design the plate similar to KMAC, where there are tabs on the plate that does all the support in holding up the plate and PCB. If you make a plate like this, then everyone will be forced to also get a custom case to go along with it because it won't be compatible with stock and current aluminum cases.
Do both
This is a list of everyone getting a prototype board. Did I miss anyone?There's also nebo.
- komar007
- jdcarpe
- kmiller8
- TheProfosist
- WhiteFireDragon
- lysol
- __red__
- dirge
- Index
- hasu
- kravlin
- engicoder
- modulor
- tipo33
- TheQsanity
- mkawa_
I'd like to get a hint as to how many people are interested in Cherry stabilizers for this (or other) project.
I'd like to get a hint as to how many people are interested in Cherry stabilizers for this (or other) project.
Well, I definitely need some more. Esp 7x bent wires.^ plus others here.
Well, I definitely need some more. Esp 7x bent wires.
I need to get EVERYTHING still. Stabilizers, PCB mount switches, plate, caps...
I refresh this thread as well as the GB every day ;D
Say what? The group buy is up already? Where?No were are talking about the proto boards you still need everything for them as you would a full board.
I refresh this thread as well as the GB every day ;D
there shouldnt be a GB thread yet... and a quick search in the GB section revealed nothing...I refresh this thread as well as the GB every day ;D
Is what I was refering to :).
Y I NO ON #4?
Y I NO ON #4?
I'll be doing a proto acrylic case if I can get some confirmation on whether the phantom switch spacing is correct on this project. I "think" it is, just need to know for sure before I get anything made.
Y I NO ON #4?
Sorry, my memory fails sometimes. I'll edit.
Edit: But I did say, "As are others," to cover my bases there. :D
So just to recap;That's cool, switches and keycaps are abundant.
Komar is printing PCBs
Beast is making plates
Alajarcls is making stabilizers
Sam is making acrylic cases, and other cases already exist (where to find?)
All that's left is switches and keys, right?
Mybe add iysols design in op?
We should make a wiki page for the group buy. I can make that, or Ron can make a wiki account for you JDCarpe. Either way, my wiki skills are as below in my signature... Some of it is Moose's, but I can do all of what he has done to make a nice GB page.
I want stainless Steel Case!!!
BTW, for those of you who are not familiar with soldering I will provide a switch soldering service.can i provide for final version as well?
I'll also order the switches, so you can have a working keyboard (as in 'with switches') shipped if you want.
How about make a GUI for windows first, then other OS later ;)
Very interested in this project, Make the GUI in Java, then it works on all the OSs. Kinda past the stuff I could help with. If any CAD/PCB or coding still needs doing I offer my services, being what they are.
is there going to have to be another round of prototyping and testing? or is this nearing the ordering stage?
So the GH60 GB will be starting in __________?????
WFD is doing the prototype SMD work?
WFD - you can just forward mine on :-) I find SMD soldering meditative.
So the GH60 GB will be starting in __________? ??? ?
So the GH60 GB will be starting in __________? ??? ?Probably ~2 weeks for me to get all the prototype boards, a couple days for me to solder and repackage, and a couple more days for you guys to get it. A week or two to test and give feedback, and/or design cases and different layout plates. Assuming there are no other delays, my guess is mid January is when the real GB can start.
So the GH60 GB will be starting in __________? ??? ?Probably ~2 weeks...
From happy to sad in under 2 sec
If the PCB shop can do pick and place for a reasonable cost, I think we are planning to do that. For a small run of prototypes, it didn't make sense cost-wise.
What is the cost estimate like on peoples case designs? I priced out a quick protoype 3d printed one and it is between 100-200 dollars depending on the fab. Will there be a group buy together with the pcbs for some aluminum poker/pure cases? Any chance at some pbt lasered or dyesubbed for the kits, though its probably easier for most of us to source our own keycaps.
And why the security concerns on a keyboard controller with Java?
How is the firmware setup, I didn't catch that on the OP. It is the same chip as the teensy, you just get the ISP and flash the thing with the firmware for teensy, that is supper easy to program layouts in teensyduino.
Not squishing a dip switch in the poker spot on that thing? Well i guess you don't really need it if it is programmable.
Good luck to all the prototypers. I think I am going to need a few of these boards to play with all the layouts =P
What is the cost estimate like on peoples case designs? I priced out a quick protoype 3d printed one and it is between 100-200 dollars depending on the fab. Will there be a group buy together with the pcbs for some aluminum poker/pure cases? Any chance at some pbt lasered or dyesubbed for the kits, though its probably easier for most of us to source our own keycaps.
And why the security concerns on a keyboard controller with Java?
How is the firmware setup, I didn't catch that on the OP. It is the same chip as the teensy, you just get the ISP and flash the thing with the firmware for teensy, that is supper easy to program layouts in teensyduino.
Not squishing a dip switch in the poker spot on that thing? Well i guess you don't really need it if it is programmable.
Good luck to all the prototypers. I think I am going to need a few of these boards to play with all the layouts =P
WFD is doing the prototype SMD work?
WFD - you can just forward mine on :-) I find SMD soldering meditative.
Most people that wanted the proto boards don't have SMD equipment. I'll have to see if using hot air rework station or hand soldering is faster. Probably hot air for the controller and capacitors, and hand soldering for the diode since they're so spaced out. I'll send yours out untouched.
You guys are on your own for switch soldering unless you send them to me.
this looks like an efficient layout,
way better than the poker one
No super/win key, whatsoever? I don't know how wise of a choice that is.
I would lose the caps lock to something like Fn+Shift and use the Caps as a 2nd Fn. Then you can use Fn2 and your arrow keys for win/menu mods if you need and of course plenty of space seeing as it'll be a 3rd layer.
I like this conceptually, but I need to ponder it more. Moving lock is fine, although I'd probably want to make it Fn-Right_Shift so it isn't a double-finger stroke.
I use caps lock for a 2nd layer at work all the time for autocad commands. Like caps + M = match properties, caps + t = trim, caps + l = lock layer......
It's super handy and saves me soooo much time. I also have another script that turns caps lock on when autocad is the main window and turns it off when it's not the main window. Super nice so I don't have to remember to not scream at people in emails
I use caps lock for a 2nd layer at work all the time for autocad commands. Like caps + M = match properties, caps + t = trim, caps + l = lock layer......
It's super handy and saves me soooo much time. I also have another script that turns caps lock on when autocad is the main window and turns it off when it's not the main window. Super nice so I don't have to remember to not scream at people in emails
How is this as an ANSI layout for a 60% keyboard?
this looks like an efficient layout,
way better than the poker one
How is this as an ANSI layout for a 60% keyboard?beige/green
Make the order of the arrows Vim (http://www.catonmat.net/blog/why-vim-uses-hjkl-as-arrow-keys/)style! :)
I'll assemble it if you'd like. :)
Hey I'm interested in this kit! Putting together a keyboard is very appealing to me. My other hobby is building Guitar tube amplifiers, so It'd be nice to break out my soldering iron for this.
Hey I'm interested in this kit! Putting together a keyboard is very appealing to me. My other hobby is building Guitar tube amplifiers, so It'd be nice to break out my soldering iron for this.
less chance of electrifying yourself with 5v too! ;)
It probably won't be another week or two until I get all the prototype boards, but in the meantime I'm looking at packaging stuff right now. Do you guys want to play it safe and have shipped inside ESD bags? The bare PCB itself don't need it, but there will be controllers and other things on there that might benefit from antistatic wrappings. And for the actual shipping, do you prefer $5.50 by USPS flat rate envelopes or $11 medium priority box? It will fit in envelopes fine, but do not have much bend or padding protection. Box cost more but won't bend and has buffer space inside for rough handling.For those who want to solder themselves, the components are already in ESD-safe bags. So you may want to put only the soldered boards into bigger ones, but I'm not sure this is necessary.
PCB + Case + Switches + Keycaps = ???
How much will be the estimated budget for this? I would love to have one of those DIY keyboards.
PCB + Case + Switches + Keycaps = ???
How much will be the estimated budget for this? I would love to have one of those DIY keyboards.
I am in about $30 + pcb cost (I traded some switches for the pcb so it is like free to me) for my prototype. $20 plastic stock Pure case, $10 for a G80-11900HRMUS (was NIB too) I'm stealing the switches and caps from. Shop smart, and with some luck it dosen't have to cost very much at all.
I'm very interested in the case if it's $150 or less, Beast.
Budget build with PCB mounting of switches, with no plate, used stock plastic Poker/Pure case, salvaged switches and keycaps, you could probably build one for around $100-150.
no leds.Budget build with PCB mounting of switches, with no plate, used stock plastic Poker/Pure case, salvaged switches and keycaps, you could probably build one for around $100-150.
Reasonable cost.
Will the PCB support leds?
Only caps lock led;)no leds.Budget build with PCB mounting of switches, with no plate, used stock plastic Poker/Pure case, salvaged switches and keycaps, you could probably build one for around $100-150.
Reasonable cost.
Will the PCB support leds?
Will anything extra need to be done to use certain color led there on the caps lock? Like orange for example use less voltage usually, unless you buy specifically high bright.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Aai81.jpg)
Source: http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=4&document_srl=5441326
Prototype board doesn't support 2 keys where the Backspace key goes, that's coming in the final revision, but I now know what layout my production GH60 will have:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Aai81.jpg)
Source: http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=photo&page=4&document_srl=5441326
Cool. So backspace will support two 1x keys and Shift_R will support 1.75-1. Will Shift_R also support 1-1.75?
Thanks!
- Ron | samwisekoi
I kinda dig it as it's something different than the norm and as such makes me more willing to get yet another 60% board.
Will prototypes support split space bar, left and right shift?
migt be a good idea to make some basic separated options...Will prototypes support split space bar, left and right shift?
Won't support split space bar unless you put them in some strange positions. Please, everyone, see the OP for all the layout options. They are all in the third image, outlined in different colors.
I kinda dig it as it's something different than the norm and as such makes me more willing to get yet another 60% board.
Prof, Komar is doing the split backspace AFAIK in the next (final) revision. Per your suggestion.Sweet! Looks at the DOX v2 project thats been sitting for months and kicks it, it rolls over on its back. It looks dead... I guess I get more GH60's now!
I would like to add a split backspace if possible, if not o wells.
Yeah, I really hate to be that guy, and I understand it can be hard to read through an entire thread if you come into it late. But surely we might expect you to at least read the original post before asking a question?
jdcarpe do yo uthink that you could add some basic layout to the OP so that people would get the idea of the possibilities of this PCB? I was thinking standard ANSI, standard ISO, ANSI Winkeyless, HHKB, and just for kicks my layout which doesnt have a name (maybe someone should give it one?) and is pictured below from the DOXv2 project.
Thanks they look great I think people will have a better understanding about what the GH60 can do now if you know what I mean.jdcarpe do yo uthink that you could add some basic layout to the OP so that people would get the idea of the possibilities of this PCB? I was thinking standard ANSI, standard ISO, ANSI Winkeyless, HHKB, and just for kicks my layout which doesnt have a name (maybe someone should give it one?) and is pictured below from the DOXv2 project.No problem. I will work on them today, and get them added to the bottom of the OP.
EDIT: Done.
No problem. I will work on them today, and get them added to the bottom of the OP.
EDIT: Done.
There will be some final revisions for sure, maybe 2 backspace keys too, if they fit.
That shipping is making me angry. I was told 6 days, that means it should be there today...
Project update:
1. I added soldering instructions to the prototyping thread for those who are soldering on their own: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37570.msg717519#msg717519 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37570.msg717519#msg717519)
2. I'm working on switch positions guide, hoping to make the layout options clearer...
3. I have a basic programming model:
Layers use inheritance. Every layer can be either a base layer (no parent), or can inherit from one other layer (its parent). Every key on a layer is either inherited (does the same as on the parent layer) or defined (does something else).
A key's definition consists of scancode and action. Scancode defines which key is sent to the PC (can be null, so that a key doesn't send anything).
Action can be one of three options:
a) layer change on key-down event (relative - adds or subtracts a constant from current layer number)
b) layer change on key-up event (the same, but when releasing the key)
c) [not strictly necessary, but simplifies some cases] layer change by n on key-down and -n on key-up, where n is a a defined integer.
The first two actions make pretty much possible including simple fn key (layer +1 on key-down on base layer and -1 on key-up on second layer); conditional scancodes (for example shift changes layer to one which inherits all the keys but escape, which becomes tilde/tick), so when you press ESC together with shift it becomes tilde; binary layer selection (3 keys with MX Lock which act as bits), though this one requires you to define all three keys on all 8 layers to work properly, so action (c) comes useful (define all 3 on base layer as +-1, +-2, +-4, where +- means action (c), which adds on key-down and subtracts on key-up, and inherit them on all other layers).
You can also easily change layers "permanently" by key-click (in cycles). Just define key-down on one layer, which goes to another, then again key-down on another, and so on and then come back to base layer.
Changing layers with a combo should be doable too: fn goes to special layer (and comes back when released), where say, space goes to the desired layer, but on that layer space doesn't do anything, so that layer stays set unless someone presses fn (which on that layer goes to other special layer, where in turn, space goes back to base layer).
Inheritance will make defining things simple, because you won't have to change keys on all layers each time you want to change something if you design inheritance properly. It also makes it possible to compress the layout to fit many layers which support various conditions, combos and stuff.
Tell me what you think.
Speaking of them, anyone have a place to get a MX Lock or 6? That would give my mini dream keyboard that certain "I don't know what". :)possibly 7bit I think i saw that he had them on DT also I believe online components used to carry them.
That shipping is making me angry. I was told 6 days, that means it should be there today...
A key's definition consists of scancode and action. Scancode defines which key is sent to the PC (can be null, so that a key doesn't send anything).
Action can be one of three options:
a) layer change on key-down event (relative - adds or subtracts a constant from current layer number)
b) layer change on key-up event (the same, but when releasing the key)
c) [not strictly necessary, but simplifies some cases] layer change by n on key-down and -n on key-up, where n is a a defined integer.
samwisekoi has offered to help with designing an acrylic case.
Whoa...60% Model M?
Has that been done before?
Whoa...60% Model M?
Has that been done before?
ClickClack has the only one, AFAIK...
Whoa...60% Model M?
Has that been done before?
ClickClack has the only one, AFAIK...
Not for long bro
Not to side track...but can you simply just cut down a PCB, or does a custom one need to be made?
Id assume you then need a custom controller, and obviously case.
I may be a total weirdo, but I think a white POM case would be the bomb.
Why u no want porn case?Does it come with a free mouse?
Why u no want porn case?
Why u no want porn case?
Actually, my case will have a clear layer over a solid layer, so you could insert photos of your choice and genre!
@komar007Hi
hi there, I am just wondering when you guys write the keyboard firmware, is it necessary to do sampling to cater for resonance/damping/whatever-that-thing-called? Or you did something hardware-wise to reduce those problems.
is it necessary to do sampling to cater for resonance/damping/whatever-that-thing-called?
No offense, but could we take down the picture of the mouse? It's kinda massively NSFW.Haha, I thought I was the only one who thought that. I was too scared of the potential flame for pointing it out though.
I don't really mind it, but I was browsing this while i had a break at work :(No offense, but could we take down the picture of the mouse? It's kinda massively NSFW.Haha, I thought I was the only one who thought that. I was too scared of the potential flame for pointing it out though.
Cool, I can't wait to see this beast...@komar007Hi
hi there, I am just wondering when you guys write the keyboard firmware, is it necessary to do sampling to cater for resonance/damping/whatever-that-thing-called? Or you did something hardware-wise to reduce those problems.
I'll release and open-source the firmware soon.
I'm currently working on the layout programming interface which will be used by the GUI to send layout to the kb. I've just figured out how to use Atmel DFU bootloader's ABI (incompatible calling convention stalled me for a while...)
As for matrix scanning, I'm currently scanning it like 30 or 50 times per second and it's enough not to cause lagging and eliminates contact chatter. I don't know why 1000Hz scanning is all the rage, but I can make mine faster if necessary and do additional chatter suppression. We'll see.
Yes, thats ta word, thxis it necessary to do sampling to cater for resonance/damping/whatever-that-thing-called?
The word you're looking for is de-bounce
I will distribute the keyboard in Europe, of course, or maybe I'll find one more person to help.I forgot that you were in the EU Komar. Whoops.
It's funny that people in the US assume others are in the same country. I normally assume others are not in my country.
Need to try and change that, internet/no boarders.
It annoys me when I see conus only in sales, I mean without people contributing overseas you wouldn't have this board. You wouldn't have the phantom. And the Korean stuff that filters through.
It's funny that people in the US assume others are in the same country. I normally assume others are not in my country.
Need to try and change that, internet/no boarders.
It annoys me when I see conus only in sales, I mean without people contributing overseas you wouldn't have this board. You wouldn't have the phantom. And the Korean stuff that filters through.
oh...no...Much less than the keyboard;)
how much do you guys think shipping to Australia would cost?
By the way, is there any limit of the controler regarding the amount of switches? I'd like to do something like this: 1.5-1.5-Spacebar-1.5-1-1-1.5, and split up both shift keys:PossibleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/1XiPR.png)
It's funny that people in the US assume others are in the same country. I normally assume others are not in my country.
Need to try and change that, internet/no boarders.
It annoys me when I see conus only in sales, I mean without people contributing overseas you wouldn't have this board. You wouldn't have the phantom. And the Korean stuff that filters through.
Fair enough. For me to ship a box of keycaps from California to anywhere in the US via USPS Priority mail: $40 USD The same shipment to Newcastle Upon Tyne, UK is $75 USD.
http://postcalc.usps.com/Default.aspx
I agree that Mr. dirge should be able to choose to spend the extra $35USD (£20 BPS) to buy a box of keycaps from me. And just as I might not buy a single keycap from QWERKeys because of the shipping cost, buying a Filco MJ2 from Keyboardco makes the shipping cost relatively reasonable.
The US Customs form to ship via USPS is 1/4-sheet of paper, and asks very few questions. So charge shipping and let the buyer decide, I say!
Happy Christmas and Boxing Day!
- Ron | samwisekoi
I agree. I don't know that we need another design between 60% and 75% boards. And with the PCB we have, you get the option to use existing Poker/Pure cases.
That looks cool, but maybe you should go for a F-row and make it the GH75 keyboard. :)
I like it, but this isn't the thread for it. Maybe make another one in this same subforum called [IC] GH75 keyboard...
I agree. I don't know that we need another design between 60% and 75% boards. And with the PCB we have, you get the option to use existing Poker/Pure cases.
That looks cool, but maybe you should go for a F-row and make it the GH75 keyboard. :)
I agree. Does anyone else? Anyone with plate and PCB skills?
GH75 anyone?
- Ron | samwisekoi
I like it, but this isn't the thread for it. Maybe make another one in this same subforum called [IC] GH75 keyboard...
I like it, but this isn't the thread for it. Maybe make another one in this same subforum called [IC] GH75 keyboard...
A GH75 would essentially be a KS Mini.
I like it, but this isn't the thread for it. Maybe make another one in this same subforum called [IC] GH75 keyboard...
A GH75 would essentially be a KS Mini.
So would a Choco Mini with betters stabs and some programmability.
Re the KS Mini, I've already asked them to take my money for that one! But will it have all of the variants that a GH would? Anyhow, we will see when and if that comes to life!
For now I'm going to focus on the GH60, perhaps with an augmented case design. A case that will have room for a folded membrane should be able to hold five more keys on the RH edge when fitted with a Poker or a GH60.
- Ron | samwisekoi
KS Mini, Choc Mini and LZ MX Mini all have the perfect layout in my opinion. None of them come in ISO though. I would much prefer a 75% ISO than a 60% ISO, but seen as neither exist, this upcomming 60% will have to do.I like it, but this isn't the thread for it. Maybe make another one in this same subforum called [IC] GH75 keyboard...
A GH75 would essentially be a KS Mini.
Wait what? Where did you order a Phantom from? I thought that GB was closed?I think he just made the deadline.
Wait what? Where did you order a Phantom from? I thought that GB was closed?I think he just made the deadline.
Just a useless update: I have NOT received all the prototype boards yet.They're very close now:)
I agree. I don't know that we need another design between 60% and 75% boards. And with the PCB we have, you get the option to use existing Poker/Pure cases.
That looks cool, but maybe you should go for a F-row and make it the GH75 keyboard. :)
I agree. I don't know that we need another design between 60% and 75% boards. And with the PCB we have, you get the option to use existing Poker/Pure cases.
That looks cool, but maybe you should go for a F-row and make it the GH75 keyboard. :)
Need? What's any of this got to do with need? ;D
Personally I love this GH60++ design. I think I'd prefer it to be a GH65/70 than a 75 though as I would want the arrow keys (for easier text selection when programming) but can easily live without dedicated function keys. The casing is still an issue I realize and thus makes the most sense as its own project. Just wanted to say I dug the design.
wow...it nice, I would like to help to make the perfect case for it. just need the size and the position of the holes.hope it will have the same as pure. and i am in for one too.Great!
Maybe in 2017 there will be group buy 5I LOL'd.
GH60 specific set:
1. Base kit
2. Modifiers
3. 13-key (tsangan) kit
4. ISO kit
Then just throw out all unneeded keycaps. :D
Once the GH60 is in place, the final layer will be a Raspberry Pi. ;D
#1 What is the purpose of the six through-holes under the space bar?That is SPI which you can use to program the bootloader if there ever is a need. I'm considering dropping it in favor of JTAG.
#2 I assume there are unused rows and columns on the controller. In a future round, can those pins be brought out to solder pads (perhaps under the space bar) for expansion possibilities?There is room for 6 another keys, but I'm not going to add pads for them unless there is a real need.
#1 What is the purpose of the six through-holes under the space bar?That is SPI which you can use to program the bootloader if there ever is a need. I'm considering dropping it in favor of JTAG.
The other possibility is to leave it there and use the JTAG pins for something else (though this will require programming fuse-bits through SPI) - for example break them out for expansion.#2 I assume there are unused rows and columns on the controller. In a future round, can those pins be brought out to solder pads (perhaps under the space bar) for expansion possibilities?There is room for 6 another keys, but I'm not going to add pads for them unless there is a real need.
That is SPI which you can use to program the bootloader if there ever is a need. I'm considering dropping it in favor of JTAG.
The other possibility is to leave it there and use the JTAG pins for something else (though this will require programming fuse-bits through SPI) - for example break them out for expansion.
Thanks!
I am surprised that there is not more capacity on the controller. Is this a smaller chip than (e.g.) the Liberator uses?
This is the base design...That's awesome! I want one. :D
(Attachment Link)
Once the GH60 is in place, the final layer will be a Raspberry Pi. ;D
Once the GH60 is in place, the final layer will be a Raspberry Pi. ;D
NICE! Hopefully it's a breeze and moves quickly from here.
Look forward to seeing the first prototypes assembled.
Also, I've learned today that I have been given full access to a shop full of metal working tools (sadly minus CNC), and given the free reign to attempt to make my own case. I think I'm going to attempt to fabricate a Stainless Steel "oneproduct" style case in HHKB form for my GH60, and then get it powdercoated.
Depending on how that goes, and time/cost as well as finished result, I may consider custom orders if any one's possibly interested...
So I want to solder my own Phantoms and GH60 eventually, will I be good with a hakko FX-888 or will I need something else I'm probably not aware of? I have seen mention of blowers, is that just a regular heat gun, or a special one specific to soldering? Also what tips should I have in my soldering toolkit that will have me prepared for anything keyboard soldering could throw my way? I had a lot of fun doing a simple switch swap to my old FC700R but that only required a desoldering iron, and a regular cheap soldering iron I had.
NICE! Hopefully it's a breeze and moves quickly from here.
Look forward to seeing the first prototypes assembled.
Also, I've learned today that I have been given full access to a shop full of metal working tools (sadly minus CNC), and given the free reign to attempt to make my own case. I think I'm going to attempt to fabricate a Stainless Steel "oneproduct" style case in HHKB form for my GH60, and then get it powdercoated.
Depending on how that goes, and time/cost as well as finished result, I may consider custom orders if any one's possibly interested...
If you gonna powdercoat it anyway why not using regular steel (ie. construction steel)?
Its not just cheaper but also much easier to work with (milling, grinding, welding...)
WhiteFireDragon - How much do I owe you for shipping? I'm kinda chomping at the bit to get my hands on it and if an extra $5 or $10 will get it in the mail today to compensate you for the drive to the Post Office I'll be happy to add it ;-)
No need to solder mine. I have solder stencils, paste and the hot-plate ready :-)
Stencil? Oh you so fancy 8) . You made a stencil to solder 1 PCB? It would have been faster if you just manually applied the solder paste.
I would bet he has a set of component stencils. On the other hand, he has access to a laser.
So the only soldering required for the actual GH60 and Phantom PCBs to get functional will be the teensy, switches, and LEDs?
Changing out the connector... herm. Kinda annoying for those who got sleeved USB cables and what not, but I agree that we should go for more in and out cycles.Yes, that's the main problem I see - cables.
I know we've talked about it already, but maybe we should consider changing USB mini to USB micro?
It's rated for more insertion cycles, and it is the kind of keyboard which you often plug and unplug...
alaricljs is correct. OHP (OverHead Projector) plastic + paste layer + laser = cheap, quick and easy stencils :-)
WhiteFireDragon, you are highly inspiring, and I will be pulling out my soldering equipment to finally get to work on my Poker and Filco mods. I hope to see more videos of you doing keyboard stuff on your channel :) .
Micro USB sounds good to me. I have no attachment to Mini USB. I'll just have to order more Micro cables from MiMiC. He's doing one for me right now. :)whoo more cables i need a ned one as well cause i was going to use one of my aramis armor cable but its got mini
I'm not saying we're doing it, but I think the betatesters could vote for example.I knew I should've been a beta tester. ;)
Thanks. I'll eventually upload a bunch of other videos for modding. I have them in raw unedited files but just been too lazy to edit and upload. I'll probably do it closer to time when the phantom PCBs are done when people actually start to build their own.
We could support both, but have one of them presoldered. If someone dislikes it, they'll unsolder it and replace it with the other one.
Well, yes. I was assuming that's for those who have hot-air stations. But since these can be cheaper than soldering irons sometimes, I do think it's a must-have.We could support both, but have one of them presoldered. If someone dislikes it, they'll unsolder it and replace it with the other one.
haha you say it like it'll be easy for everyone. There are 4 large pads and 4 small pins that has to be desoldered simultaneously. This is not possible with 1 iron, and that's assuming everyone will have 1 soldering iron. I think it needs to be left for the person to solder, or presoldered with the specified connector
Bag-O-Blues just arrived yesterday...Really excited for this. Keep us updated! :)
Paper-based case prototype was built yesterday...
Currently deciding whether the Pi should be under the KB (making it a touch higher), to the side (a touch wider) or behind (a touch deeper).
Leaning deeper and considering also adding a breadboard + MCU interface ;-D
Bag-O-Blues just arrived yesterday...
Paper-based case prototype was built yesterday...
Currently deciding whether the Pi should be under the KB (making it a touch higher), to the side (a touch wider) or behind (a touch deeper).
Leaning deeper and considering also adding a breadboard + MCU interface ;-D
whoo go GH60-PROF125 plate FTW!!!
o well you can use an iso set for most of it i think you could see if you could get blanks from SP I just went with WASD because I wanted my layout on the capswhoo go GH60-PROF125 plate FTW!!!
i'd do your layout but keycaps though for the layout.....no wasd plz
It will fit in any Poker/Pure case, so you could use oneproducts, imstos, the Duck Poker case, etc..
Just wanted to add my layout. Still don't know if it should be with a split backspace.If you split the backspace, I think this is my preferred layout, most keys would be swappable with an ISO 1800. Just 3-4 bottom row keys to change.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7fmFH.png)
When we have to choose a plate I could easily be persuaded into the split backspace version. I just like not having an overly large spacebar on a very small keyboard as it always seemed like a waste, even though it looks great.Really?
Wut? with a 10 unit spacebar you would actually have room for a 1.5, 1, 10, 1, 1.5. It would be useable on a daily basis and look like a real boss :cool:
something like ctrl, alt, space, fn, winShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z98nSOU.png)
Yes, WFD has told me he's doing it, so I'm sure he'll take that into account.make sure to remind him alot lately it seems hes been super busy
In case you don't follow the beta testing thread for these, here is the switch hole design I came up with for the new plates I'm working on. This design allows for 3 important things:
- any rotation orientation of the switch
- opening of the top switch housing without desoldering
- clamp the switch in place, and for the top/bottom plastic clips spring to lock.
Will the PCB support cherry and filco caps lock position or just one?
Will the PCB support cherry and filco caps lock position or just one?
Looking at the images of the PCB it seems to support both as there are two holes to put the switch in at the caps lock position.
Is it still possible to get in on this?
Is it still possible to get in on this?
It hasn't even started, it's an IC that has done a prototype. Just wait for the GB, it should be here soonish
Is it still possible to get in on this?
It hasn't even started, it's an IC that has done a prototype. Just wait for the GB, it should be here soonish
Awesome! Will have to sell my poker to be able to fund this bad boy, oh well 60% for 60%!
A question about the plates...
When this converts into a GB and we're at the ordering stage for plates, I'm curious if the plates being designed would work on a KBT Pure. If so, I can see ordering an extra plate.
Maybe too soon to ask, but figured I'd ask anyway.
Every day I refresh this thread at least 5 times, and then when there's nothing new I end up perusing the interwebs trying to decide what colour keycaps I'm going to get. No other keyboard will satisfy me after watching this project!!Your questions are kinda off topic so it might be a good idea to make a new thread if you're looking for detailed answers.
Question.. what size o-ring is recommended for blue switches? Would any of the available o-rings conflict with the auditory feedback of the blues?
Also, blues probably wouldn't be best for the spacebar. Maybe some reds for the modifiers?
Sorry for not posting for some time. I was on holidays.
I'd like to start the group buy soon.
I've fixed the C3 problem, and we could start in days. But I still don't know if the rotated switches are ok with the most of you.
I still need to look into the split backspace thing, since it seems many people want it.
Sorry for not posting for some time. I was on holidays.
I'd like to start the group buy soon.
I've fixed the C3 problem, and we could start in days. But I still don't know if the rotated switches are ok with the most of you.
I still need to look into the split backspace thing, since it seems many people want it.
I don't mind the rotated switches. I would like the split backspace option, if possible.
Thanks for the update, komar! :)
Which layouts require a rotated switch?
A bit more care might be needed on pcb mount when remove keycap as pulling too hard can pull out the stem with it.I see people pulling out the switches along with the traces.
I think the switch rotation issue is mostly speculation at this point. From what I;m hearing there are plenty of examples of rotated switches in the wild.
Did any of the early testers have issue? Has anyone actually experienced negative repercussions of 90 degree rotated switches? Or all issues, at this point, hypothetical?
WFD, have you shipped all the GH60s yet?
Vintage caps are going to be more likely to crack, depending how brittle the plastic has become.Show Image(http://www.knizefamily.net/images/pool/keyboard-wyse-crack.jpg)
Sorry about the wysecrack.
Sorry about the wysecrack.
Sorry about the wysecrack.So sad... Goodbye little soldier. At least your demise served to teach us all a valuable lesson about the dangers of stem rotation and vintage plastics.
For the aluminum housing ballast weights. has anyone suggested nickles or pennies?nice one, you can just get them out of a wishing well.
Yes, MX switch is about as basic as it gets. Nice big through hole parts, it is easy. All of the difficult SMD part will come assembled.
well, if you are still skeptical, take a look here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38363.0
Things offered will be resistors, leds, switches, stabilzers, cases, plates, and cables, this all depends on interest.
The other thing is the soldering pads, which overlap with the switch holes. You can see how this looks in the current rev. A board (caps-lock). This makes the connection much more fragile and some PCB fabs will refuse to drill holes which overlap, which shouldn't be a problem for me, since there were no problems making rev. A with one such case.
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I want this.
I am only now realizing the money pit I am getting myself into.
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I want this.
I am only now realizing the money pit I am getting myself into.
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I want this.
I am only now realizing the money pit I am getting myself into.
You wouldn't happen to be the progamer strelok would you?
:-) I'm waAaaaaatching youI'm new to mechanical keyboards and I want this.
I am only now realizing the money pit I am getting myself into.
You wouldn't happen to be the progamer strelok would you?
Nah, I got the name from the game STALKER.
From what I can tell this is postponed to an undetermined date, possible indefinitely.
From what I can tell this is postponed to an undetermined date, possible indefinitely.
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I want this.
I am only now realizing the money pit I am getting myself into.
You wouldn't happen to be the progamer strelok would you?
From what I can tell this is postponed to an undetermined date, possible indefinitely.
ISO-based with 1.25x size modifiers, and a pure-style 1x key on the right shift.
Ok I have all the layouts designed and there are 9 so far. I double checked all PCB holes several weeks ago to make sure all the layouts were possible before making the plates. Split backspace is not possible, so there won't be a true HHKB layout. Here's an example of a plate. The capslock hole is a bit of an eyesore since it doesn't look uniform with the rest.Nice work! But perhaps we can have two plates, one with regular backspace and one with split backspace?
ISO-based with 1.25x size modifiers, and a pure-style 1x key on the right shift.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/plates/example.png) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/plates/example.png)
Nice work! But perhaps we can have two plates, one with regular backspace and one with split backspace?
Not yet anyhow. I think Komar was going to put the split backspace in for the final revision, IIRC.That's what I thought as well :)
Seems like almost all of the "beta testers" were really in it as a shortcut to getting GH60 first.
Does anyone know if the atmega will have any gpio pins leftover? I assume this will be somewhat easy to program for if there are pins, but if anyone has any knowledge on this it would be great to hear. ThanksCurrently, there are 4 pins free, all of which are used by JTAG by default. In order to make them usable, one has to connect an SPI programmer to those 6 pins I broke out under the GH60 logo and change the fuse bits settings.
Are there spare PCB's available? Really interested in hacking at the firmware; so many mods that I have for OSX using KeyRemap4MacBook that'd be awesome in hardware.Sorry, I don't have any left to sell. The GB is starting really soon now.
Does anyone know if the atmega will have any gpio pins leftover? I assume this will be somewhat easy to program for if there are pins, but if anyone has any knowledge on this it would be great to hear. ThanksCurrently, there are 4 pins free, all of which are used by JTAG by default. In order to make them usable, one has to connect an SPI programmer to those 6 pins I broke out under the GH60 logo and change the fuse bits settings.
We can either consider this an option for hackers and have them change the fuse bits themselves or the distributors reprogram them before sending to people.
There have been ideas of putting GH60 and GHPad into a single case, so maybe these pins could be used to connect the two boards instead of having 2 USB cables or a USB hub inside.
What other useful functions can you think of for the 4 pins?
The GB is starting really soon now.
Led backlight control with digital dimming with either additional switches or better yet, based on ambient lighting
Led backlight control with digital dimming with either additional switches or better yet, based on ambient lighting
PCB has no traces, solder pads, or even holes drilled for in-switch LEDs, except for at the Caps Lock position.
You don't necessarily need to unprogram JTAGEN fuse bit with ISP programmer.
You can disable JTAG function with asserting JTD bit of MCUCR by firmware.
I use this JTD bit trick to use PF4-7 as GPIO in Teensy. I think this trick also works well on GH60.
You don't necessarily need to unprogram JTAGEN fuse bit with ISP programmer.sweet! thanks for the tip hasu :D
You can disable JTAG function with asserting JTD bit of MCUCR by firmware.
I use this JTD bit trick to use PF4-7 as GPIO in Teensy. I think this trick also works well on GH60.
komar: there are what look like a bunch of test pads wired into the switch matrix on the bottom center of the board. maybe you could route those to the extra gpios on the avr for hardware hacker types? (and a couple of marked pads for V+ and usb gnd?)
komar: there are what look like a bunch of test pads wired into the switch matrix on the bottom center of the board. maybe you could route those to the extra gpios on the avr for hardware hacker types? (and a couple of marked pads for V+ and usb gnd?)
Those pads are SPI, VCC and GND. Marking at least VCC and GND in the silkscreen is a good idea though.
I'll add another set of pads for the 4 unused pins somewhere.
Will the number pad support a split + key?yes
Like this but without the split 0:
http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard_images/topre_realforce_23ub_small.jpg
Are there spare PCB's available? Really interested in hacking at the firmware; so many mods that I have for OSX using KeyRemap4MacBook that'd be awesome in hardware.Sorry, I don't have any left to sell. The GB is starting really soon now.
I have still yet to assemble mine, because there was delay from miscommunication with what needed to be assembled smd wise for me. But I should have it soon and my plans are to test my ideal layout with it of course:Show Image(http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp349/lysol8086/4cbbb5f6_zps9388e96f.png)
sorry for the awful mock up, I made it with mspaint while I was at work one day.
Black is default layer, red is layer 2 and blue is layer 3 embedded numpad activated by fn+n on layer 2 hopefully I can manage to figure it out to work that way.
We can either consider this an option for hackers and have them change the fuse bits themselves or the distributors reprogram them before sending to people.
There have been ideas of putting GH60 and GHPad into a single case, so maybe these pins could be used to connect the two boards instead of having 2 USB cables or a USB hub inside.
What other useful functions can you think of for the 4 pins?
lol you guys want so many changes, after all the prototypes have been made. With all these new ideas, if they're all implemented then that might warrant another round of prototype, which will delay the GB even more :/
Let's clarify a few things.
Yes, there is enough space to put all the switches without rotations.
However, this breaks two things. One is PCB pins. Not rotating switches 90 degrees causes the reduction from 2 pins to 1, since the other one falls into the hole of the switch nearby. This is probably a minor problem, and I have a good workaround - a wire keeping the switch in place instead of the regular switch diode, so those who use no plate can make sure the switches sit firmly.
The other thing is the soldering pads, which overlap with the switch holes. You can see how this looks in the current rev. A board (caps-lock). This makes the connection much more fragile and some PCB fabs will refuse to drill holes which overlap, which shouldn't be a problem for me, since there were no problems making rev. A with one such case.
So, to sum up, we have a problem with mounting pins, which is a minor one, and with overlapping pads, which is a major one. The first has a workaround, so it's not actually a problem, the second one just requires a compromise.
I'm rotating the switches now, and I'll probably make as many not rotated 90 degrees as possible.
I've just come back from holidays.haha hope you had a good time.
I'll try to do it quickly.
haha hope you had a good time.
i am jsut worried about my keycaps....
so is the hhkb layout out the window?
so is the hhkb layout out the window?
Currently, there are 4 pins free, all of which are used by JTAG by default. In order to make them usable, one has to connect an SPI programmer to those 6 pins I broke out under the GH60 logo and change the fuse bits settings.
I have finished building mine and am typing this post with it. It's good to go, for the most part. Now to just wrap my head around getting it programmed how I want it...What specs Ivan? :)
Will it be possible to put custom actions on this (like macros), so like Fn + I opens ITunes, or am I talking rubbish? :D
Will it be possible to put custom actions on this (like macros), so like Fn + I opens ITunes, or am I talking rubbish? :D
Just FYI on those "universal" switch holes for the plates: they are less than perfect in practice, and I will avoid using them in the future.Just a couple of questions for reference. Were the switches plate mount only? Were they soldered onto a pcb as well or just free in the plate for testing the fit. Thanks for being the guinea pig :D
Just FYI on those "universal" switch holes for the plates: they are less than perfect in practice, and I will avoid using them in the future.Just a couple of questions for reference. Were the switches plate mount only? Were they soldered onto a pcb as well or just free in the plate for testing the fit. Thanks for being the guinea pig :D
Just FYI on those "universal" switch holes for the plates: they are less than perfect in practice, and I will avoid using them in the future.Just a couple of questions for reference. Were the switches plate mount only? Were they soldered onto a pcb as well or just free in the plate for testing the fit. Thanks for being the guinea pig :D
These were plate mount switches, and the plate was designed for a 10-key pad, which I don't have a PCB for, yet (GHpad). I was just testing the fit, because I have some plate designs which I will be using as a prototyping testbed, without a PCB to solder the switches to. See this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40567.0) thread, for more info on what I'm talking about. I wanted to know if that hole design would support the switch well enough without a PCB, and now I know that it really won't. If the switches in those "universal" holes were mounted to a PCB, they probably wouldn't move much, if at all. And the point becomes moot if you are using PCB mount switches, obviously. The hole design is sound, but for me, it's just not PERFECT.
Just FYI on those "universal" switch holes for the plates: they are less than perfect in practice, and I will avoid using them in the future.Just a couple of questions for reference. Were the switches plate mount only? Were they soldered onto a pcb as well or just free in the plate for testing the fit. Thanks for being the guinea pig :D
These were plate mount switches, and the plate was designed for a 10-key pad, which I don't have a PCB for, yet (GHpad). I was just testing the fit, because I have some plate designs which I will be using as a prototyping testbed, without a PCB to solder the switches to. See this (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40567.0) thread, for more info on what I'm talking about. I wanted to know if that hole design would support the switch well enough without a PCB, and now I know that it really won't. If the switches in those "universal" holes were mounted to a PCB, they probably wouldn't move much, if at all. And the point becomes moot if you are using PCB mount switches, obviously. The hole design is sound, but for me, it's just not PERFECT.
Was it exactly from my design or did you or Beast make your version of it? I sent Beast a file for it, so not sure if that's the one he used for you or if you guys made your own version of it. If you guys made one based off the phantom hole that was rotated and overlayed, then it'll be different than the one I sent to Beast. Mine had slightly different dimensions.
If it's straight from my file modified into your layout, then that's a real bummer :( . I guess I'll have to go back and check dimensions again. Dimensions were derived from my universal TKL plate. Btw, since you bought a universal TKL plate from my GB, how does the hole from the TKL compare to this rotated version? And is it loose at the corners or the sides? A macro shot of it would be great if you can.
Short answer: no, not on Caps Lock.
Long answer:
This keeps coming up, so it's not just you. I think people (myself included) want to have a MX Lock switch on their board for the :cool: factor. But Caps Lock doesn't quite work that way. When you press the Caps Lock key, the switch closes (KEY_DOWN) and then opens when you release it (KEY_UP). But the lock stays activated in firmware/OS until the next KEY_DOWN event. So if you had a MX Lock switch there, it stays down until you press it again. You'd have to do this: Press once, activate. Release: Nothing, switch is locked down (KEY_DOWN). Press 2nd time, unlocks the switch (KEY_UP), but the lock is still activated in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, lock still activated in FW/OS. Press 3rd time: Switch locks down, but now the Caps Lock deactivates in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, still deactivated. Press 4th time: Switch lock releases. Release: Still deactivated.
What you want to do with an MX Lock switch is something like Shift or Fn, that only functions while the key is pressed. Giving you Shift Lock or Fn Lock.
Send me an MX lock, or 12
kthnx
Short answer: no, not on Caps Lock.
Long answer:
This keeps coming up, so it's not just you. I think people (myself included) want to have a MX Lock switch on their board for the :cool: factor. But Caps Lock doesn't quite work that way. When you press the Caps Lock key, the switch closes (KEY_DOWN) and then opens when you release it (KEY_UP). But the lock stays activated in firmware/OS until the next KEY_DOWN event. So if you had a MX Lock switch there, it stays down until you press it again. You'd have to do this: Press once, activate. Release: Nothing, switch is locked down (KEY_DOWN). Press 2nd time, unlocks the switch (KEY_UP), but the lock is still activated in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, lock still activated in FW/OS. Press 3rd time: Switch locks down, but now the Caps Lock deactivates in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, still deactivated. Press 4th time: Switch lock releases. Release: Still deactivated.
What you want to do with an MX Lock switch is something like Shift or Fn, that only functions while the key is pressed. Giving you Shift Lock or Fn Lock.
I don't see why not, although you have to map the key as Shift, and essentially you'll have Shift Lock (ie apart from letters being capitalized, the num row will give you symbols)
Short answer: no, not on Caps Lock.
Long answer:
This keeps coming up, so it's not just you. I think people (myself included) want to have a MX Lock switch on their board for the :cool: factor. But Caps Lock doesn't quite work that way. When you press the Caps Lock key, the switch closes (KEY_DOWN) and then opens when you release it (KEY_UP). But the lock stays activated in firmware/OS until the next KEY_DOWN event. So if you had a MX Lock switch there, it stays down until you press it again. You'd have to do this: Press once, activate. Release: Nothing, switch is locked down (KEY_DOWN). Press 2nd time, unlocks the switch (KEY_UP), but the lock is still activated in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, lock still activated in FW/OS. Press 3rd time: Switch locks down, but now the Caps Lock deactivates in FW/OS. Release: Nothing, still deactivated. Press 4th time: Switch lock releases. Release: Still deactivated.
What you want to do with an MX Lock switch is something like Shift or Fn, that only functions while the key is pressed. Giving you Shift Lock or Fn Lock.
This guy from London has some MXLOCK-PCB on hand that he's selling (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ped-s-sale-switches-phantom-pcb-plates-caps-keyboards-t5182.html)
Thanks for that, I might order them and some other switches off him for the GH60 :) If i remember correctly from one of WhiteFireDragon's videos, you can simply remove the legs from PCB-mounted switches for Plate-mounting amiryt?
Shift lock is the easy short-cut. Because the matrix is fully NKRO, you could have the firmware send both make and break for both positions of the lock switch. You still have the issue of getting out of sync due to another keyboard activating capslock or plugging in the keyboard with the switch in the wrong state, but it is possible to keep things reasonably sane. The firmware is also aware of the real state of the software caps lock because of the LED state. So one could tweak the firmware to be smart about it and not blindly resend the sequence if the lock switch and LED state do not match. There would still be corner cases, like when the LED state is wrong, too.
Doesn't seem worth it to me, but some folks really seem to want to relive the 80s.
hmmm..Shift lock is the easy short-cut. Because the matrix is fully NKRO, you could have the firmware send both make and break for both positions of the lock switch. You still have the issue of getting out of sync due to another keyboard activating capslock or plugging in the keyboard with the switch in the wrong state, but it is possible to keep things reasonably sane. The firmware is also aware of the real state of the software caps lock because of the LED state. So one could tweak the firmware to be smart about it and not blindly resend the sequence if the lock switch and LED state do not match. There would still be corner cases, like when the LED state is wrong, too.
Doesn't seem worth it to me, but some folks really seem to want to relive the 80s.
I just wanted to say exactly that;). Though I don't know why, but I can certainly lead to a situation where the caps-lock led is on on one keyboard and off on another, which rather makes it harder. I don't know if this is correct behaviour. Or rather it certainly isn't.
Again, probably not worth it:/
BTW, I have posted my programming GUI in the prototyping thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37570.0). Please help make it better by testing.
In fact making better is too much said. Please tell me if it runs for you at all;)
1: It's hard. More accurately, it's hard to provide as much customizability as users have come to expect from a GH produced board. (see layouts) Several people have been working on blacklight solutions... just not there yet.
2: It's to avoid drill hole overlap for either the leads or pins of the switch.
Also, with LED's you can no longer open up switches (to lube sliders or change springs) without some desoldering.
Hey there, hi there!
Does anyone have a rough gauge on how much a PCB+Plate+Plastic/Acrylic Case will cost? :D
Hey there, hi there!
Does anyone have a rough gauge on how much a PCB+Plate+Plastic/Acrylic Case will cost? :D
Not really. We still don't really know how much this will all cost, but we should know something soon. komar007 is getting the info from the PCB fab.
Get a Poker. You'll have a cheaper case for GH60:)
Matteo do you mean that you can do 3d render on a remote server and display them in real time?
I'm finally able to integrate everything I know to get this. The keycaps are cherry profile, inside the case that I designed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U0vQ433.png)
I'll render all the different layouts like this. I think this is easier for newbs to see possible layouts than it is just looking at plates I posted. Although, each render like this burns a couple hours of my time just preping it for the final render.
Is there any chance we can get the HHKB plate with full modifiers?
People who want the actual HHKB layout can just not use them.
Is there any chance we can get the HHKB plate with full modifiers?
People who want the actual HHKB layout can just not use them.
You mean the 1.5-unit modifiers on the ends? The plate design will have holes for them. If you get WFD's HHKB-style case, the top cover just covers those holes. You can always get the fully open top cover, instead.
For the person who is designing the case, is there a chance we could get one like the 365 mini which has an extra weight built in? The 365 mini uses Brass but we could use anything.
Cheers,
Now the question is: where to put the breakout pads?
Sorry dudes I don't follow this thread. Will there be a layout with arrow keys?
Okay, I've decided to rotate all the switches back to 0 or 180 degrees.
Unfortunately, there's one which cannot be rotated like this no matter what, so the ISO enter will be rotated 90 degrees and it'll be the only one.
Except for the 6 pins with SPI, I'll break out the 4 unused pins and all 5 row signals. This will make it possible to extend the board with extra keys or connect extension modules.
The GHPad can be connected either using 2 of the extra pins, or directly to the matrix using all four pins as columns, in which case it won't require a separate controller.
Now the question is: where to put the breakout pads?
Sorry dudes I don't follow this thread. Will there be a layout with arrow keys?
So a layout with an ANSI enter would have no rotated switches then? Also, would a combined groupbuy with the gh60 and ghpad be a possibility?
ISO enter should be rotated 90° as any 2X high cap (not applicable here). They are made that way, and Costar stabilizers won't work if they aren't. Just so you know =)Does that mean an ISO enter has the "+" rotated 90 degrees?
Wait, you said ISO enter is the only rotated switch. That looks like an ANSI left-shift. And that looks like it's mounted on the old poker plate.Yes, I meant on the poker plate and the old GH60 PCB I had a costar mounted like this on shift and it worked rather ok.
Okay. Do your plates allow both possible positions of the stabilizers? And lastly, what's the purpose of all the cutouts in stabilizer holes, instead of just two rectangles? Are there some other stabilizers that can be used?
Okay. Do your plates allow both possible positions of the stabilizers? And lastly, what's the purpose of all the cutouts in stabilizer holes, instead of just two rectangles? Are there some other stabilizers that can be used?
@ gnubag - why did you delete that post? It was a perfectly good picture for a simple explanation.I meant put the wire on the other side of the switch.Okay. Do your plates allow both possible positions of the stabilizers? And lastly, what's the purpose of all the cutouts in stabilizer holes, instead of just two rectangles? Are there some other stabilizers that can be used?
What do you mean by both position of stabilizer? Unfortunately, stabilizers can only be mounted in one direction. You can't rotate it 180 degrees because the mounting is not symmetrical in that sense (there is a slight offset). 3 different stabilizers can be used: Costar, plate-mounted cherry, and PCB-mounted cherry. That's all we really have to choose from anyways.
wasd, but all diodes together? Either all on or all off?
I can do this.
wasd, but all diodes together? Either all on or all off?
I can do this.
+1 to this. One resistor for the 4 WASD LED is fine. If you make WASD lights possible, I foresee someone requesting the whole keyboard backlit as well.
Locking switch work fine currently for anything but caps lock, num lock.I thought so, too.
i am super interested in this. anyone know when they will become available?
i am super interested in this. anyone know when they will become available?
i heard a rumor once that komar said they would be hitting door steps in november.
I'm using locking switch on mine currently on my right shift, I asigned some different codes to the key position to see if there were any other issues. For any normal keys or Fn it is fine. Though I wouldn't advise to use it for some, like tab for example, even though it works technically.
I keep thinking it would be funny to put them on W and F, apply infinite ammo cheat and let the keyboard play game for you :))
I'm using locking switch on mine currently on my right shift, I asigned some different codes to the key position to see if there were any other issues. For any normal keys or Fn it is fine. Though I wouldn't advise to use it for some, like tab for example, even though it works technically.
I keep thinking it would be funny to put them on W and F, apply infinite ammo cheat and let the keyboard play game for you :))
I'm using locking switch on mine currently on my right shift, I asigned some different codes to the key position to see if there were any other issues. For any normal keys or Fn it is fine. Though I wouldn't advise to use it for some, like tab for example, even though it works technically.
I keep thinking it would be funny to put them on W and F, apply infinite ammo cheat and let the keyboard play game for you :))
Sounds perfect for most pyros in TF2
Could it be possible to make ALPS version of GH60?It could. It even has been proposed somewhere. I don't mind if someone does that;)
Also what does Komar mean in Polish? It means mosquito in Slovenian ;)
Well I was thinking if you could do a small run of ALPS version GH60 :D I would love to have Matias switch GH60 (or monterey)Could it be possible to make ALPS version of GH60?It could. It even has been proposed somewhere. I don't mind if someone does that;)
Also what does Komar mean in Polish? It means mosquito in Slovenian ;)
It means the same, of course;)
I think keycaps would be bigger problem... We really need some ALPS keyset group buys.
I think keycaps would be bigger problem... We really need some ALPS keyset group buys.They still sell it???
Stabilizers might be an even bigger problem
We can start a GH60-Alps thread maybe+1
Interested for 2-3 "HHKB style" boards.
komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.Revision B already have these holes, look at the right side of the board - there are 5 holes there without any connection, these are the expansion pins.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
If you are referring to the rev. B PCB posted in the GB, then no, there is no holes for any LEDs, except on Caps Lock.Sorry, I were talking about the keypad, not about leds.
If you are referring to the rev. B PCB posted in the GB, then no, there is no holes for any LEDs, except on Caps Lock.Sorry, I were talking about the keypad, not about leds.
You are right.
Haha, you made me press my nose against my monitor at work trying to find holes on WASD on revB :pLOL, I'm so sorry for you monitor man!
wow...it nice, I would like to help to make the perfect case for it. just need the size and the position of the holes.hope it will have the same as pure. and i am in for one too.
komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
Yes, unfortunately some of the leds will be above instead of under the switch, because some of the switches have to be rotated 180 degrees and there's no way to do it differently.komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
Excellent news! GFlad to hear that will be added :)
Yes, unfortunately some of the leds will be above instead of under the switch, because some of the switches have to be rotated 180 degrees and there's no way to do it differently.komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
Excellent news! GFlad to hear that will be added :)
This is also a bit crazier than I thought, I'm basically redesigning the whole board. I've done like a half of those pads so far;)
Yes, unfortunately some of the leds will be above instead of under the switch, because some of the switches have to be rotated 180 degrees and there's no way to do it differently.komar said he's making that change to the final revision PCB, I believe.
There will be holes with pads for LEDs in those positions (and Esc I think).
Excellent news! GFlad to hear that will be added :)
This is also a bit crazier than I thought, I'm basically redesigning the whole board. I've done like a half of those pads so far;)
Is that LED pads on most all switches I see? :eek:
Yes, the LEDs are totally a DIY thing. Power can be taken from either the ISP connector or the expansion connector, so this should not be a problem.even for locks? (at least caps lock)
Yes, the LEDs are totally a DIY thing. Power can be taken from either the ISP connector or the expansion connector, so this should not be a problem.
I'll also try to wire the WASD block and add some footprints for the resistors for them, but the rest will have only bare pads.
As for the number of holes, there are 3 options <300, [300, 600] and >600, we were at the second for the prototype, now we'll move to the third, but I don't think it changes the cost significantly.
offtopic... can someone please link me some great soldering/desoldering/solder sucker/etc equipment available on amazon? If not in this thread then maybe in a PM please? this forum needs +thanks like xda dev forums. you guys are great!
offtopic... can someone please link me some great soldering/desoldering/solder sucker/etc equipment available on amazon? If not in this thread then maybe in a PM please? this forum needs +thanks like xda dev forums. you guys are great!
I'm just going to copy/paste directly from here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36572.msg688508#msg688508).
budget setup:
Weller WLC-100 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000AS28UC&linkCode=as2&tag=02-20-02-20)
desoldering iron (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00068IJSG&linkCode=as2&tag=02-20-02-20)
decent setup:
Hakko FX-888 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M3U0VU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004M3U0VU&linkCode=as2&tag=02-20-02-20)
Edsyn Soldapullt (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PDOOM2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000PDOOM2&linkCode=as2&tag=02-20-02-20)
Rosin-core solder (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KXTJSY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007KXTJSY&linkCode=as2&tag=02-20-02-20)
It's a bug which appears in windows, introduced by a fix of another bug in linux;)
EDIT: fixed
(Attachment Link)
komar, are you going to spin another small run of proto boards? It seems like you are making quite a lot of changes and it would be a shame if the GB ended up with errors.
It's a bug which appears in windows, introduced by a fix of another bug in linux;)
EDIT: fixed
(Attachment Link)
Yes.It's a bug which appears in windows, introduced by a fix of another bug in linux;)
EDIT: fixed
(Attachment Link)
How is that a windows bug? Are you not sending the scancode for BACKSPACE_AND_PIPE ?
EDIT: Oh wait, you mean it only shows up in windows, not that it's a bug with Windows itself.
Is there a discussion thread somewhere regarding developing a website like the ergodox has to create the firmware from a gui?No, but there's a nearly working program for this and there will be a new, better one as well.
I am a c# developer. Please let me know if I can be of any help, if needed, for a windows GUI.Any help will be useful. The GUI will be most probably in C++/Qt it that's ok for you.
And the third is to connect it to the rcontrol, rgui, ralt, rshift block, to replicate the Poker arrows, so that they can glow when activated.
Please tell me what you think. I don't think there's time for another poll, so just write here.
I read in own of these threads that you were thinking about adding pads for leds on every switch hole but not adding traces to them all?
if this is the case then could the 4th lead be used to power the rest of the led's?
The problem with powering all the leds is... power;)
Powering leds is not as easy a task as it may seem. Connect them in series and you need a big step-up converter, connect in parallel and you need a resistor for each one of them.
I have an idea to run traces through the leds in form of a matrix. This should be the easiest way to power using an expansion module, because it'll require only 14 resistors (for the columns) and if someone really wants to, it's possible to control every diode separately this way. Even every diode's brightness separately if it's really necessary.
Though I don't promise anything;). Just saying it would be cool.
The problem with powering all the leds is... power;)
Powering leds is not as easy a task as it may seem. Connect them in series and you need a big step-up converter, connect in parallel and you need a resistor for each one of them.
I have an idea to run traces through the leds in form of a matrix. This should be the easiest way to power using an expansion module, because it'll require only 14 resistors (for the columns) and if someone really wants to, it's possible to control every diode separately this way. Even every diode's brightness separately if it's really necessary.
Though I don't promise anything;). Just saying it would be cool.
I am a c# developer. Please let me know if I can be of any help, if needed, for a windows GUI.Any help will be useful. The GUI will be most probably in C++/Qt it that's ok for you.
Now other things. Since we have the expansion connector with 4 free signals there, I've decided to use these 4 pins so that they're not wasted for those who don't need expansion. I've connected one of them to the WASD block leds, second to the escape led and the third to the Fn (to the right of right shift) led.
If someone is using the expansion connector, they just don't solder the resistors and there's no problem.
Now 1 signal is unused and I'm wondering where to connect it.
One option is backspace (you could do some visual indication in the upper right-hand corner of the keyboard with it).
The second option is the ISO backslash next to left shift (if someone wants to use it as Fn).
And the third is to connect it to the rcontrol, rgui, ralt, rshift block, to replicate the Poker arrows, so that they can glow when activated.
Please tell me what you think. I don't think there's time for another poll, so just write here.
I am a c# developer. Please let me know if I can be of any help, if needed, for a windows GUI.Any help will be useful. The GUI will be most probably in C++/Qt it that's ok for you.
Now other things. Since we have the expansion connector with 4 free signals there, I've decided to use these 4 pins so that they're not wasted for those who don't need expansion. I've connected one of them to the WASD block leds, second to the escape led and the third to the Fn (to the right of right shift) led.
If someone is using the expansion connector, they just don't solder the resistors and there's no problem.
Now 1 signal is unused and I'm wondering where to connect it.
One option is backspace (you could do some visual indication in the upper right-hand corner of the keyboard with it).
The second option is the ISO backslash next to left shift (if someone wants to use it as Fn).
And the third is to connect it to the rcontrol, rgui, ralt, rshift block, to replicate the Poker arrows, so that they can glow when activated.
Please tell me what you think. I don't think there's time for another poll, so just write here.
It's great to see that you are making a huge progress, Komar. Very good work! and really nice to see that you have adding a matrix for the LEDs :DSorry, no.
I have a quick question since I had some trouble getting an answer by just looking at the PCB. but will there be support for a 1.5-1-1.5- 6 -1.5-1-1-1.5 bottom row? I know that the left holes for the stabs is okay, but I am not entirely sure about the right side.
yea! no i can have LEDs on my number row and on my home row! :D great work komar!
Well, I just have to remind that this module will cost extra and I think I'll sell it separately later. I can't predict now how much it will be.
Well, I just have to remind that this module will cost extra and I think I'll sell it separately later. I can't predict now how much it will be.
Very excited about this. Possible to do reactive lighting and such?
All possible configurations for the bottom row are:
a) 1¼-1¼-1¼-6¼-1¼-1¼-1¼-1¼
b) 1½-1-1½-7-1½-1-1½
c) 1½-1½-7-1½-1-1-1½
d) crossovers of a) and c), because the space in these two ends in the same place. So you can have:
d1) 1¼-1¼-1¼-6¼-1½-1-1-1½
d2) 1½-1½-7-1¼-1¼-1¼-1¼
You could also do some other crossovers, but then you'd have spaces between keys.
For #1: which LEDs are still connected to the controller besides caps lock? Do we still have Poker-style Fn lock indicators?
Well, I just have to remind that this module will cost extra and I think I'll sell it separately later. I can't predict now how much it will be.Haha, you make it sound like a LED scam.
New pics of the PCB: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41464.msg828904#msg828904
All possible configurations for the bottom row are:
a) 1¼-1¼-1¼-6¼-1¼-1¼-1¼-1¼
b) 1½-1-1½-7-1½-1-1½
c) 1½-1½-7-1½-1-1-1½
d) crossovers of a) and c), because the space in these two ends in the same place. So you can have:
d1) 1¼-1¼-1¼-6¼-1½-1-1-1½
d2) 1½-1½-7-1¼-1¼-1¼-1¼
You could also do some other crossovers, but then you'd have spaces between keys.
Aww, bummer!
But the 6x spacebar won't have the switch. I'd have to add a switch footprint between two others which are already close to each other...:/
EDIT: oh wait, it can be done, indeed:P
EDIT2: or can it?
@Komar
The through hole resistors for the ASD LEDs look like it will interfere with the PCB support ribs on the Pure aluminum cases.
But the 6x spacebar won't have the switch. I'd have to add a switch footprint between two others which are already close to each other...:/
EDIT: oh wait, it can be done, indeed:P
EDIT2: or can it?
I am sorry I am not much help but is the reset switch position available from the hole on the bottom of the case where the poker dipswitches normally are?Yes, it replaces the poker dipswitches.
What a great tribute Komar, awesome.
This will be my new signature picture.Mind if I wear that too?
thank you so much komar.
This will be my new signature picture.Mind if I wear that too?
thank you so much komar.
i love it, komar. thank you so much for the work you've put into this project. the board is amazing and with a little elbow grease and some project management, happily help hundreds if not thousands of people type about their days for years to come.
Ladies and gentlemen, it seems the board is ready.Gosh man, awesome work!
I'm sending it for final prototype production within a day.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
All the CAD files are, as always, here: https://github.com/komar007/ghkb (https://github.com/komar007/ghkb)
Here are the gerber files: (Attachment Link)
And hi-res renders: (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
It's heavily modified, but based on the previous one.Awesome!
Yes, you're counted in.
isn't the GHpad also dependent on this as well?True, sorry - I mentioned only the ones that I have some pending work.
This will be my new signature picture.
thank you so much komar.
Is it possible to put a micro USB socket on the same pad footprint as the mini USB?
This is no longer in production? Did I dream that the title had production in it?The GB thread does.
:))
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
Since none of us that did make it into the group buy have received them yet, it's impossible to say. Once they start shipping, you're bound to find a few people selling theirs. Your only other option is to try and take over someone's order, but I've only seen one, or two people do that thus far.
Regardless, you'll still be waiting like the rest of us. ;D
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
Since none of us that did make it into the group buy have received them yet, it's impossible to say. Once they start shipping, you're bound to find a few people selling theirs. Your only other option is to try and take over someone's order, but I've only seen one, or two people do that thus far.
Regardless, you'll still be waiting like the rest of us. ;D
Damn it, I'm looking into buying my first mech and this seems like it would be the perfect keyboard for me. Now I need to decide whether to wait, or just buy a poker II.
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
Since none of us that did make it into the group buy have received them yet, it's impossible to say. Once they start shipping, you're bound to find a few people selling theirs. Your only other option is to try and take over someone's order, but I've only seen one, or two people do that thus far.
Regardless, you'll still be waiting like the rest of us. ;D
Damn it, I'm looking into buying my first mech and this seems like it would be the perfect keyboard for me. Now I need to decide whether to wait, or just buy a poker II.
Buy the poker so that you have a case. I hope it'll fit;)
I only want to buy one keyboard.
I only want to buy one keyboard.
I only want to buy one keyboard.
Then I would definitely go for a Poker II. The GH60 is more minded at people already deep in this hobby/hording disease.
The Poker is already a great product where the layout is well thought through, FN layer is great and it's readily available.
I only want to buy one keyboard.
Then I would definitely go for a Poker II. The GH60 is more minded at people already deep in this hobby/hording disease.
The Poker is already a great product where the layout is well thought through, FN layer is great and it's readily available.
+1 a lot of the people that bought the gh60 will be using a standard poker layout anyways.
Oh, then you misunderstand it a bit. If you go with a GH60 you would have to also buy a case, switches, stabilizers, cable along with a soldering iron, solder and possibly a solder sucker/soldapullt/desoldering iron. So the amount of money you would save is not much if any at all (I actually think it will be more expensive). And isn't the Poker II also programmable to some degree? The caps on the poker is by no means the most expensive thing on the keyboard, so the money wasted on that front is minor.
I have a soldering iron etc, I worked it out and I think it's cheaper than buying the poker for $100 and a set of thick PBT keycaps for $75.
I have a soldering iron etc, I worked it out and I think it's cheaper than buying the poker for $100 and a set of thick PBT keycaps for $75.
Not really. I forget the exact prices, but you have like $35 in the PCB/SMD parts + say 60 x $0.6 for the switches. Plus about $10 for the stabilizers, $5 for a cable. Oh and $15 for a plate. You're at about $100 right there, and you don't have a case (just look around at the prices of those... you'll see that just the case alone can easily exceed $100). Plus you haven't paid to ship anything anywhere.
Don't get me wrong, I love making stuff and the DIY stuff is fun. But don't do it because it looks cheaper to do it yourself.
Been away from GH for a couple of months and haven't followed all the revisions of the PCB.
Will a 7Bit layout be possible as it is on the Phantom boards?
Like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WWYypL5.jpg)
Imaging taking out a board like that in class with blank caps and soft touching like a boss with some nice clicky blues.
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
Since none of us that did make it into the group buy have received them yet, it's impossible to say. Once they start shipping, you're bound to find a few people selling theirs. Your only other option is to try and take over someone's order, but I've only seen one, or two people do that thus far.
Regardless, you'll still be waiting like the rest of us. ;D
So I missed the GB by about 4 months, Will I still be able to get a GH60 at some point, and if so when?
Since none of us that did make it into the group buy have received them yet, it's impossible to say. Once they start shipping, you're bound to find a few people selling theirs. Your only other option is to try and take over someone's order, but I've only seen one, or two people do that thus far.
Regardless, you'll still be waiting like the rest of us. ;D
i am one of those people and have been regretting it every day =*(
I'm one of the one or two that gave up his order like a fool. and so I regret being a fool.
fingers crossed <3
It's finished but untested. I'll take a final look during Christmas and send the files for production after New Year.Nice! :) I hope that some manufacturer would sell mkbs like these in the future :cool:
Yes, after the GB ships, mechanicalkeyboards.com should have them for sale.
It's finished but untested. I'll take a final look during Christmas and send the files for production after New Year.
What does it mean? Is it going to sell a DIY product or a fully assembled product?Yes, after the GB ships, mechanicalkeyboards.com should have them for sale.
What does it mean? Is it going to sell a DIY product or a fully assembled product?Yes, after the GB ships, mechanicalkeyboards.com should have them for sale.
It's finished but untested. I'll take a final look during Christmas and send the files for production after New Year.
Yes, after the GB ships, mechanicalkeyboards.com should have them for sale.
about the LED module, can it be retro fitted to an already built keyboard with LEDs already installed?
about the LED module, can it be retro fitted to an already built keyboard with LEDs already installed?
Good question! I am interested in this as well.
does that mean installing wire traces directly from the module to the LED's?
Sorry was talking about GH60. I have never built a keyboard before so its hard to understand how something can be added on for extra features and if i'll have to wait to build my keyboard until the module is released.
hmm, not sure the cases ive bought will support the extra space required by the add on module; one assumes that it doesn't have the have the black pin separator and i can wedge some non conductive material between the two pcb's to minimise the profile.
Hello everyone.
i build from scratch my gh60 keyboard.
yesterday i soldered switched, load firmware by flip application.
windows 7 found HID-compatible keyboard, but no activity from keyboard.
how to check or debug keyboard????
Sent PMs to update my shipping address. Moving again, for the third time.
Sent PMs to update my shipping address. Moving again, for the third time.
I think the thread you are looking for is here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41464.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41464.0)
Sent PMs to update my shipping address. Moving again, for the third time.
I think the thread you are looking for is here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41464.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41464.0)
Hi,
if you used this firmware: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50685.msg1109357#msg1109357
then you still need to program the layout with the GUI provided there.
Instructions here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37570.0
Hi,
if you used this firmware: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50685.msg1109357#msg1109357
then you still need to program the layout with the GUI provided there.
Instructions here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37570.0
Hello.
i read instruction you gave to me.
reloaded firmware, then updated new layer, but keyboard didnt work.
after i found tmk firmware, loaded it, and keyboard worked.
now i use tmk default / poker layout.
can you help with stabilizers. my space key inserted into 1 switch. it is not good.
i could not find where to buy fake switches that work as stabilizer.
i dont use plate, only pcb mount switches.
NECROTHREAD ARISE!I think you could also just use this
I keep getting asked this so Im going to go ahead and put this here (mostly because this is where the techkeys.us info link leads for the GH60 rev.c)
GH60 rev.c quick and dirty "worked for me" WINDOWS firmware instructions
Download:
FLIP : http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx3
winavr: https://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/
QMK firmware: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/archive/master.zip
1: Install FLIP and winavr and unzip QMK to an directory on your hard drive
2: Plug in GH60 after you have assembled it windows will say "Unrecongnized usb device" (it has no firmware yet)
3: Open windows device manager (could help to unplug other keyboards now)
3: Press button on back of PCB, it will disconnect and re-connect with another "Unrecognized usb device" warning. But now the chip is in bootloader mode. If you watch the device manager when then this is happening it will be easier to find the device, as it will appear either a unrecognized device or "HID keyboard device"
4: Find unrecognized device in device manager, right click > update driver software. The diver for the atmega chip is in the FLIP directory. Tell windows to look in the flip program directory for the driver. After it is done installing the driver it will take a few minuets but the keyboard (still in bootloader mode) will be detected and shown as an "atmega32u4" -- Congrats! you can now flash your firmware with FLIP.
5: Open windows command prompt, navagate to <your-QMK-unzip-location>\qmk_firmware-master\keyboard\gh60
6: type "make", winavr will now compile the firmware in that directory producing a .hex file in the same directory
7: Open FLIP, click on the microchip icon in the upper left "Set target device" "atmega32u4"
8: click the "Select a communication medium" (looks like a usb cord next to microchip icon), click USB > Open. If you successfully installed the drivers for the atmega32u4 you should now be able to File > Load HEX file (the one you just compiled) then click "Run" in the lower left of the FLIP screen.
9: Un-plug and re-plug in your GH60 rev.c
10: Done
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
EasyAVR does rgb controls now?
Since when does the GH60 have RGB?? I'm confused.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
EasyAVR does rgb controls now?
NECROTHREAD ARISE!
GH60 rev.c quick and dirty "worked for me" WINDOWS firmware instructions
Download:
FLIP : http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx3
winavr: https://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/
QMK firmware: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/archive/master.zip
6: type "make", winavr will now compile the firmware in that directory producing a .hex file in the same directory
7: Open FLIP, click on the microchip icon in the upper left "Set target device" "atmega32u4"
8: click the "Select a communication medium" (looks like a usb cord next to microchip icon), click USB > Open. If you successfully installed the drivers for the atmega32u4 you should now be able to File > Load HEX file (the one you just compiled) then click "Run" in the lower left of the FLIP screen.
10: Done
NECROTHREAD ARISE!
GH60 rev.c quick and dirty "worked for me" WINDOWS firmware instructions
Download:
FLIP : http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx3
winavr: https://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/
QMK firmware: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/archive/master.zip
6: type "make", winavr will now compile the firmware in that directory producing a .hex file in the same directory
7: Open FLIP, click on the microchip icon in the upper left "Set target device" "atmega32u4"
8: click the "Select a communication medium" (looks like a usb cord next to microchip icon), click USB > Open. If you successfully installed the drivers for the atmega32u4 you should now be able to File > Load HEX file (the one you just compiled) then click "Run" in the lower left of the FLIP screen.
10: Done
Just built my GH60 but I am unable to get it to work despite following the isntructions that were necroposted up above. I feel like the issue is that my board comes up as ATm32u4DFU and not ATm32u4. I've created a hex file using Easy AVR and the standard POk3r layout. However, when I try to flash the hex file using FLIP I can't find my device name in the "Select Target Device" pop up menu. Upon connecting my board for the first time, it was never seen as an unidentified device and never gave any warning. So, I believe it already has the firmware but just no keymap hex file. Any ideas on how I can continue?
I just bought this GH60 Rev. C from Techkeys a few days ago.
Thanks!
Brian
Coming very soon on gh60.infoAwesome!
I'm happy to announce that the production files for GH60 rev. C are now available at http://gh60.info.Thank you so much!
Please also check out my quick blog post about it: http://blog.komar.be/gh60-rev-c-plain-edition-is-out/
I'm happy to announce that the production files for GH60 rev. C are now available at http://gh60.info.
Please also check out my quick blog post about it: http://blog.komar.be/gh60-rev-c-plain-edition-is-out/
I'm happy to announce that the production files for GH60 rev. C are now available at http://gh60.info.
Please also check out my quick blog post about it: http://blog.komar.be/gh60-rev-c-plain-edition-is-out/
Thanks for all your work Komar.
Is there any plans to complete the expansion board to get full in-switch LED functionality?
Just finished soldering Gateron Green's to my GH60 from Techkeys and I have one row not working. The 8, i, k, m row. All on the same board tracer downward. Diodes all test at ~.6 (.3 -.7 are known good) Board tracer continuity between the switches is good. Is there anything else I can look at to be at fault? I haven't been able to locate a schematic of the GH60. Guess I could break out the scope and dive in but it's been many years since I've turn that thing on.
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about on the GH60 board.More(http://i.imgur.com/sxY3yMV.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/sxY3yMV.jpg)
Guess I should add the is the GH60 Rev. C and I used dfu to upload the firmware. Can't get ukbdc to connect unless I use dfu erase, flash, and start first.
Here's the strange thing, at least to me. Once I start ukbdc I have to run 'sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 start' first before I can load a layout and program through ukbdc. If that makes sense to you. I'm using the layout gh60.lay I forget where I got that layout from. I can find out if need be.
I'm currently going to try the firmware from the link in your reply.
Hhaha! Thanks. That worked. He is what I did.
From this link you gave me https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50685.msg1109357#msg1109357 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50685.msg1109357#msg1109357) I downloaded ukbdc_gh60_revB-0.3-dev.hex
Then ran:
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase
sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash ukbdc_gh60_revB-0.3-dev.hex
sudo dfu-programmer start
I then opened ukbdc, loaded gh60b.lay, and clicked program. Worked great.
Thanks again. I figured it wasn't that difficult. Leave it to me being new to this and reading to many different forums posts.
I posted on the keyboard section as well, but I figure this will be a better place to ask
I have a gh60 rev b PCB with switches installed, and in-switch LED's. Is there anyway to get these to work with the gh60 rev b PCB? I have tried in Easy AVR, but have had no luck. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.If you upload a picture of the PCB then it could probably be figured out. I'm sure someone with more knowledge on the PCB actually knows.
I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.
Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.
I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.
Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.
I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.
I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.
Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.
I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.
I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.
I think you're right now that I look at it again. I'll chance it.
edit: I'm putting in sip sockets so I suppose it shouldn't be problematic if it is not correct.
Ahh well, no problem. I actually tried it out and it worked. But the led I bought was not bright enough. Ill put in another one tomorow. But it works so I'm happy. My kb is almost done now.Hi, I hope this is the right topic to ask.
I have a rev C and I've successfully added a Caps Lock led and an ESC led. But there's also the possibility to add an FN led. I can see where I have to solder the resistor (it says so on the PCB) but which key do I solder the led to? I can't figure it out. Not even with Google searches.
I'm nearly positive that it's a split RShift fn.
I think you're right now that I look at it again. I'll chance it.
edit: I'm putting in sip sockets so I suppose it shouldn't be problematic if it is not correct.
Tired me was looking around Caps Lock for a FN key :))
Hey guys, I feel kinda stupid, but I can not find any information on how I can provide program this PCB. Could you be so kind and point me into the right direction?
Hey guys, I feel kinda stupid, but I can not find any information on how I can provide program this PCB. Could you be so kind and point me into the right direction?
I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.
I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.
The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.
I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.
The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.
Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.
Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?
I saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.
The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.
Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.
Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?
Yes, you'd set it up with a 7U space bar bottom row and just not add the bottom corner switches. I don't know where you'd find a case with a top plate to cover those empty areas, though.
The bottom row would look like this minus the corner switches...
(Attachment Link)
MoreI saw the GH60 Rev. C up on Techkeys. Do I have to solder anything aside from switches if I use no LEDs (not even on caps)? It looks like the controller is already good to go.
The only soldering required is switches, LEDs, and, if you do use LEDs, you must also add the resistors for them. No LEDs means only the switches need be soldered.
Thanks for the info. Went ahead and bought one. $35 is a good price for a PCB compared to what the Satan goes for in the UK and what I bought my B.face for, and $9 is mind-bogglingly cheap for international shipping.
Anyone know if I can do a HHKB layout on this? AFAIK should be possible since it's just WKL minus two Ctrls, yes?
Yes, you'd set it up with a 7U space bar bottom row and just not add the bottom corner switches. I don't know where you'd find a case with a top plate to cover those empty areas, though.
The bottom row would look like this minus the corner switches...
(Attachment Link)
Using a Leandren HHKB plate. It does not have cutouts for Ctrl in the lower left and right corners. With a Tex case, the plate becomes flush with the case.
You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60
It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0).
There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead :)
You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60
It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0).
There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead :)
Is it possible to create an ISO Layout with AVR? I can only see the ANSI Layout keys.
Also, how can I add keys like "Ö", "Ä" etc.?
You can also use QMK, which is what I've been using. I've uploaded my keymapping so feel free to use that or the default as a starting point: https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gh60
It's not well advertised as there are options, the easiest is probably EasyAVR (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0).
There are a couple of minor issues with the included config (right split shift and FN are swapped and a couple of missing LEDs) - if this bothers you put the attached file in c:\users\[YOUR USERNAME]\.EasyAVR\Boards then use GH60F instead :)
Is it possible to create an ISO Layout with AVR? I can only see the ANSI Layout keys.
Also, how can I add keys like "Ö", "Ä" etc.?
The Enter key as set is the right place for ISO, just ignore the US |\ above as you won't have a switch there. The ISO key next to enter is visible and set as the standard keycode, as is the split left shift key so if you tell your OS you use a German layout it will type as you expect - don't be tempted to move Z to the top row as it will have the opposite effect!
If you want to do a non-standard keymap you can select a key in the editor then press a working keyboard to assign that code which is easier when dealing with different labels, all firmwares use the US labels so we ISOers have to work a bit harder :)
Not sure whether I did understand you. Let me sum this up please: When I open AVR, I should be able to just load the default GH60 Layout and use this. The "Ö","Ä" and "Ü" Keys should work just fine, right? I would like to have my Capslock as Fn Key for Layer switching. Not sure which key I should assign in order to achieve this. Or do I just select the proper Mode in the select box while the capslock key is highlighted to achieve it?
Hey guys. Got my rev. C up and running. I used FLIP to install the driver, and EasyAVR to program. Worked like a charm.
Layout is stepped caps, WKL bottom row (1.5-1-1.5-7).
That is, except for two issues:
1. EasyAVR doesn't have a layout under GH60a/b/c that matches mine. It is either ISO with standard bottom row and split backspace and split right shift, or completely standard Poker.
2. I can't reprogram my keyboard. I got the basic functions up and running but
- right Windows is a Fn key (want), but my right Alt is a Fn key too (don't want)
- backspace works as backspace, but cannot get Delete to work as Fn + Backspace. In EasyAVR it displays as split backspace, but I have a normal backspace. Both are set as Delete in Fn layer but it doesn't work (rest of my Fn layer is ok).
- don't have F1-F12 yet
The board simply doesn't take any firmware that I give it anymore. It all successfully flashes in FLIP but nothing changes after unplugging and replugging. I've created new layouts from scratch with both the standard GH60 and Gh60 Poker layouts in EasyAVR, and out comes a good .dat and .hex file which I use to flash, but nothing changes on my board.
Every time I flash I put it into bootloader mode, either by the pink button or using "Boot mode" that I've programmed as Fn + Space (Fn 2) + 7. Using the pink button makes the "disconnecting" sound in Windows, while using the Boot mode function gives a "disconnecting" and "reconnecting" sound.
Any ideas? Any way I can perhaps make a custom layout in EasyAVR to match my WKL setup? Will it even help or is my board just borked?
You might get some answers here but you'll have a better chance in this thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
Hi Guys,
I was looking for a bit of clarity surrounding the caps lock LED. I don't plan to add any LEDs to the board, except for a single LED for caps lock. Would I need to solder in a resistor for this?
Thanks
Hi Guys,
I was looking for a bit of clarity surrounding the caps lock LED. I don't plan to add any LEDs to the board, except for a single LED for caps lock. Would I need to solder in a resistor for this?
Thanks
It is a GH60 rev. C from techkeys. It looks like there are SMDs soldered onto the board. However, I do see the location marked clearly for a resistor for the caps key, so I assume that I will need to solder in a resistor at that location.
(Attachment Link)
Thank you for the responses.
It is a GH60 rev. C from techkeys. It looks like there are SMDs soldered onto the board. However, I do see the location marked clearly for a resistor for the caps key, so I assume that I will need to solder in a resistor at that location.
(Attachment Link)
Thank you for the responses.
Those smd devices are diodes. There are no resistors installed for the LED positions.
Working!
Just need to build a case.
My first keyboard build. Only took three years to get it...
Working!
Just need to build a case.
My first keyboard build. Only took three years to get it...
Oh dear, 3 years ? Why is it taking so long ?Likely because the parts were stuck in shipping limbo for ages. I only just received my parts after waiting for something like 3 years and 10 months.