------- -------
| | |
| + | + | 1u
| | | |
------- -------
| | |
| +| | 1.25u
| || |
`---------'
| || |
| +|| | 1.5u
| ||| |
`-----------'
.-----------, 1.5u
| ||| |
| ||| |
` +++ |
| |
| |
`---------' 1.25u
and lines like below in log file such as /var/log/kern.log(ubuntu).
$ lsusb
...
Bus 001 Device 050: ID feed:6464
...
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305237.996043] usb 1-1.3.1: new full-speed USB device number 52 using ehci-pci
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090594] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device found, idVendor=feed, idProduct=6464
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090607] usb 1-1.3.1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090613] usb 1-1.3.1: Product: Alps64
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.090619] usb 1-1.3.1: Manufacturer: TMK
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.093405] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.0/0003:FEED:6464.008F/input/input121
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.148208] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.008F: input,hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input0
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.150044] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.1/0003:FEED:6464.0090/input/input122
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.204289] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0090: input,hidraw1: USB HID v1.11 Mouse [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input1
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.206226] input: TMK Alps64 as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.1/usb1/1-1/1-1.3/1-1.3.1/1-1.3.1:1.2/0003:FEED:6464.0091/input/input123
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.260781] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0091: input,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input2
Jan 4 23:05:28 desk kernel: [305238.263008] hid-generic 0003:FEED:6464.0092: hiddev0,hidraw3: USBHID v1.11 Device [TMK Alps64] on usb-0000:00:02.1-1.3.1/input3
In for 2 AEK completely assembled
In for 2 AEK completely assembled
Just to make sure you understand the mini-buy since you're requesting AEK fully assembled, the PCB supports several layouts. The assembled is the PCB with SMD work done. You will still need to provide the plate, switches, and caps and solder the diodes.
In for 2 AEK completely assembled
Just to make sure you understand the mini-buy since you're requesting AEK fully assembled, the PCB supports several layouts. The assembled is the PCB with SMD work done. You will still need to provide the plate, switches, and caps and solder the diodes.
Yup, that's exactly what I want lol
I'm in with all components soldered.This
Next project should be a TKL ALPS PCB board compatible with Filco/WASD cases.
Anyone want to step up and run a plate GB for these?
Anyone want to step up and run a plate GB for these?
If it can be made at BigBlueSaw and swill's plate configurator works right, I'd be willing to run it. Otherwise it would probably be too expensive locally since I'm in California.
Anyone want to step up and run a plate GB for these?
If it can be made at BigBlueSaw and swill's plate configurator works right, I'd be willing to run it. Otherwise it would probably be too expensive locally since I'm in California.
His tool doesn't have Alps stabilizer holes. But that's not a problem. I can design the plates.
So, I was thinking. For salvaged keycaps, you can always just cut the plate from the old keyboard, as suggested in the OP. Should we make a plate with Alps holes and Costar stabilizers, to be used with keycaps from SP? Would there be enough demand to run a GB for a custom Alps keyset to go with these?Anyone want to step up and run a plate GB for these?
If it can be made at BigBlueSaw and swill's plate configurator works right, I'd be willing to run it. Otherwise it would probably be too expensive locally since I'm in California.
His tool doesn't have Alps stabilizer holes. But that's not a problem. I can design the plates.
Alright, you design the plates and I can run the GB and get them cut through BBS. I'll probably look into local powder coaters and see what kind of pricing we can get there unless people would prefer aluminum. I could probably do it even cheaper locally if people wanted wood or acrylic plates.
If you can help me figure out the specs for the alps stab holes I can add support for them. I wanted to add them, but I didn't know the spec to draw them.Anyone want to step up and run a plate GB for these?
If it can be made at BigBlueSaw and swill's plate configurator works right, I'd be willing to run it. Otherwise it would probably be too expensive locally since I'm in California.
His tool doesn't have Alps stabilizer holes. But that's not a problem. I can design the plates.
Thanks for photos. I'll add support to stepped caps lock.
I didn't know ALPS keyboard has stepped key. Good to know.
Got reply from PCB guy and they requires extra $16 for my design(two cut outs for screw on side edge), this means price of PCB will be increased by around $2.
And I found a serious problem on space bar switch position, if I overlooked this mistake 104key layout like Dell 101W and V60MTS would lose support. I'll take more time to check my design again before order.
As for stepped Capslock I added 1.50/0.25 stepped key(Dell/SGI 101/101W) in addition to Non-stepped(AEK, Omnikey, V60, Infinity). I didn't find Alps 1.25/0.5 stepped key yet so far, as far as I skimmed through this SKCM keybaord list randomly. I won't add its support unless existense of the key is confirmed.
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Category:Keyboards_with_Alps_SKCL/SKCM_switches
Yeee I'm excited. Thanks again for including me hasu!
What micro controller is used? At90usb162?It's the ATMega32U2 (if not changed since this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0), don't have the software to check)
Placed order! Once they accept my design I'll PM invoices.
Is it still possible to get in on this? I'd love a raw PCB with components if so!
Whether second run of the GB happens depens on how difficult soldering process is to me. If it is too difficult or time consuming I'll not do this again.
Thanks for your interest, all. I'm not sure about second run but I'll skim this thread to make a list if it happens.
Applet, thank you. I'll let you know if I need.
I got a mail from manufacturer today and this pic was attached. They will be delivered to me in a few days.
Still keep your fingers crossed!
(Attachment Link)
I'd most likely get another if there's a second run. How can I be satisfied with only one??
@nandop: I'll be posting an interest check soon for 60% Alps plates.
nadop,
I don't give my design a license yet intentionally, at least during I'm running GB. That being said, feel free to make PCBs for your own usage but will have to postpone distributing to others untill I clearly decide the license. I'm thinking about using CC-BY-SA like Sparkfun.com does or GPL.
I probably would have messed up the PCBs anyways lol
Probably I'll revise design and make more boards, but I don't know whether it would be GB or artisan service.Well FWIW if it happens I wouldn't mind getting one or two unassembled, to hone my SMD soldering skills.
Before that I have to see how well assmebly and shipping go and also need to find new good PCB fab to work with.
DanielT, confirming Dell layout would be nice! :D
Can't wait for a 60% Alps board! :D
Can't wait for a 60% Alps board! :D
Cpt, the v60 mini might scratch the itch in the meantime; I love mine so far.
I think cardboard is too flimsy and not so useful for that purpose. You mean, somehting like thin MDF board? Anyway, I don't have proper materials and cutting tools at hand.
No but if second run occurs I'll make contact with you and others who displayed their interest here.I wish the second run will happen. V60 with TMK firmware plus the PBT caps Matias is working on, will so so awesome! That would be really close to my dream keyboard!
Confirm its fitness for V60MTS case and plate will be nice.
No but if second run occurs I'll make contact with you and others who displayed their interest here.Displaying interest here :D. I'd love to get in on a second run if it happens.
Use greens, send or sell me some more browns :DYou're welcome.
Paid. Thanks again Hasu for all your hard work!
@CPTBadAss -- what switches should I put in this thing? All I have are some Matias switches and I don't know ALPS very well.
Paid. Thanks again Hasu for all your hard work!
@CPTBadAss -- what switches should I put in this thing? All I have are some Matias switches and I don't know ALPS very well.
Clicky - blue Alps
Linear - green Alps
Brown - brown and orange Alps are pretty good iirc
Edit: Just to mention it, I totally would be in for a PCB or two in a second run.
So just swap in the Matias click leaf into orange alps nubs?I inquired nubbs about this earlier and it's actually fairly simple.
Click modded leafYou just fold the little tabs on the side of the leaf.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0uuINyu.jpg)
Unmodded leaf:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JtKMtKh.jpg)
It creates a softer, less shrill click similar to how MX whites are softer.
Click modded Orange >>> Blue Alps.
Brown, Orange, and Green are all nice tactile Alps. And, like you said, Green is the only way to go for linear Alps.
Click modded Orange >>> Blue Alps.
Brown, Orange, and Green are all nice tactile Alps. And, like you said, Green is the only way to go for linear Alps.
In what regard do they feel different? Smoother, heavier? Cause you can get custom Alps springs if the only weight is the difference.
It's a nicer tactile bump (IMO) and it's a softer, less harsh click. Whites and Blues tend to be a little on the sharp and harsh side in sound. Click modded Orange is a softer, deeper, and richer sounding click, IMO. It's not really quieter, but not as grating. It's kind of like good White MX versus MX Greens.
It's a nicer tactile bump (IMO) and it's a softer, less harsh click. Whites and Blues tend to be a little on the sharp and harsh side in sound. Click modded Orange is a softer, deeper, and richer sounding click, IMO. It's not really quieter, but not as grating. It's kind of like good White MX versus MX Greens.
Sounds nice, although I don't mind a "harsh" click (my current fav is the K110 with Monterey Blues and they are just crunchy, I guess that wouldn't be your taste).
PS: Requesting typing video :)
Please do a video comparing blue ALPS to click molded orange.
I don't care if you wont have a full board but I do want to see what it's like.
No but if second run occurs I'll make contact with you and others who displayed their interest here.
I'd get 2 plates at $30 nubbs
Cheaper, more precise. That's probably it.I'd get 2 plates at $30 nubbs
I noticed you wanted laser cut, I'm probably not well versed enough, but could you explain for those like me why you would take one over the other? I'm game for other, but would love to hear the pros and cons of each from someone better versed in it than me.
If we had a commitment on a round 2 I would totally get in on the plate buy. Ugh.
Anyone have problem on Rev.A PCB?USB position a bit to the left? ;) Seems Not a problem. Thanks!
....
Problem I found so far is:
- USB connector is misaligned a blt.
Thanks,
Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)
Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)
I've heard other people say this specifically about Matias. I will try to experiment with this tonight and let you know
This tactile inconsistency is much less perceptible on keys with stabilizers. It's not very obvious if you don't pay attention to find it. Actually I never realize it until I read this thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54392.0. But when I pay attention to it, it's indeed there, especially easy to feel it on top rows like number row. When pressed near bottom, it's like a soft tactile, whereas near top edge, it almost like a click.Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)
I've heard other people say this specifically about Matias. I will try to experiment with this tonight and let you know
I don't feel tactile weirdness of backspace and other keys on AEK layout of orange Alps switches but I'm not so picky and have no sensitive fingers. But I can hear different sound(of tacile spring?) from every switches when pressing upper and bottom edge. I think it comes from structure of Alps switch.
Tried Simpliefied black switches, ah yes, I could feel a bit difference of tactility but it won't be big problem to me. I don't have Matias at hand now but I think structure of Matias is similar to rather Simplified one than Complicated.
Yeah, not big problem but it will be fixed in next revision.
With my Poker X case it looks like this. I'd like to know how it looks in other cases.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TD36qvih.jpg)
I don't have a board soldered up yet.
I will eventually so I will post pictures then.
Although if you want a picture of the usb positioning I guess I could provide that without assembly.
KBP V60 case also have a pretty small tolerance on USB port.Wow no kidding. Like zero.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for posting pic! Nice legends :DI'm also really happy they work :D.
ISO keys, HHKB Rshift and split Backspace seem to work somehow, good to know.
Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on :PThat's one bad ass board the symbol of a prototype board :D Love seeing boards being built and I think this was the whole point of this project. I started working on mine, tomorrow I'm working from home just to finish this beauty :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/37Ynebb.jpg)
Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. ;D
Thanks for posting pic! Nice legends :DDid you not expect this configuration to work? :)
ISO keys, HHKB Rshift and split Backspace seem to work somehow, good to know.
That's one bad ass board the symbol of a prototype board :D Love seeing boards being built and I think this was the whole point of this project. I started working on mine, tomorrow I'm working from home just to finish this beauty :cool:Glad you like it, I hope you all post pics of your boards when they are done, I'm looking forward to seeing them :D
Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on :pGood Job! :o :o I guess You can get caps from Apple Extended anytime :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/37Ynebb.jpg)
Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. ;D
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!
Speak to 7bit and get some Matias switches in there ;).
Now a stupid question about the firmware, what loader should I use for this controller ? It works like for Teensy or should be something else ?1: Insert keyboard to PC. 2: Press button (no need to hold). 3: Flash firmware. :) I think it works exactly as a Teensy (never used one)
And how do I put it in programming mode, I saw the push button on the back, is there a sequence ? Like push 5s insert usb and stuff like that ?
For the keymap I'm all good, code is something I understand :p
Cool :) and which loader did you use ?Lile hasu I use the dfu-programmmer :)
Here is a photo with the plate. The center mount hole is unusable, the Alps switches are too wide and I don't have enough clearance to insert the screw, but it doesn't matter, it's very stable and the Dell plate adds some healthy weight to the keyboard.Actually I love the feels of steel plates, hard but soft ::)
(Attachment Link)
Ugh you're such a tease DanielT. I'm waiting on nubbinator's plate buy to build mineLucky you. I'll be waiting on PCB round 2 once I get Nub's plate.
Ugh I keep forgetting to do great fits on my pure stock case and pure cnc case.
Thanks, CPTBadAss!
No critical defect has been found so far and connector alignment seems to be also not big problem.
Second run will be done with exactly same design as the first run, I can use same stencil and this reduces cost a little.
Any sugestion on second run?
Nice PCB! :thumb: People are waiting for the 2nd run ! ;)
Matias Alps switches will be available $15- $18/100pcs for the possible coming GB.Wow that is cheap!
Thanks Matias for Your Favour ! ;)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71357.msg1744588#msg1744588 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71357.msg1744588#msg1744588)
Might be time to start a new topic sprit ;)Might start When Hasu is ready for 2nd run of Alps PCB? ;)
And if there's no one else who can handle shipping, I could do so, though I won't be as fast as the Gateron buy.
On the plate note, soon. They missed my e-mail and I got in touch with them yesterday to check on it. Dropped of switches and stabs today so they can test fitment before making the full lot.
Seems Chinese Alps switches may look similar to Matias, but internal parts differ, esp the sliders, contact leaf.
I'd prefer proven Matias than Chinese clones. believe Matias got better QC.
The Clones' prices are even not better at all. ::)
Oh, Yes! :thumb: My point is :Seems Chinese Alps switches may look similar to Matias, but internal parts differ, esp the sliders, contact leaf.
I'd prefer proven Matias than Chinese clones. believe Matias got better QC.
The Clones' prices are even not better at all. ::)
I thought Gaote was Matias manufacturer?
What is the absolute lowest profile case you can build these with? Custom acrylic?
Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/37Ynebb.jpg)
Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. ;D
Thanks, it basically is out of my engineering lab at my university :D. I might draw my own legends for the function-keys on the new set of keycaps as well. I'm planning white PBT's from Matias combined with these (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0) modifiers. I like the thought of blanks with only the legends for the function-layers :)Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/37Ynebb.jpg)
Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. ;D
I don't know why, but those hand drawn legends looks awesome to me.
It reminds me something out of my engineering lab in college.
I'm definitely doing that to one of mine.
Thanks so much for this idea!! :thumb:
Thanks, it basically is out of my engineering lab at my university :D. I might draw my own legends for the function-keys on the new set of keycaps as well. I'm planning white PBT's from Matias combined with these (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0) modifiers. I like the thought of blanks with only the legends for the function-layers :)Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/37Ynebb.jpg)
Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. ;D
I don't know why, but those hand drawn legends looks awesome to me.
It reminds me something out of my engineering lab in college.
I'm definitely doing that to one of mine.
Thanks so much for this idea!! :thumb:
Rev.A users,A friend has a Poker 2 case, I'll try the PCB in it but I'm not sure when I will have the time to try it , will post results when done. I only have the Poker X case myself.
did anyone try other case? Currently PokerX and Pure CNC case were confirmed.
Aren't there anyone with Poker 2 and Poker 3 case to try the PCB?
jevvix,Thank you. Sent you a PM regarding my potential order.
I just didn't want to cut, mark and sort out small SMT components.
OK. I can sell them for $10 if you have to get components from me. And Raw PCB costs $12.
Applet, could you post pic of bottom of Matias keycap? I'd see its mount position.Sure, here is a pic of the cap:
Rev.A users,I have on mine a Poker II case amd it works just fine, the USB connector has no clearance problems. Also the alu Hammer case works fine :)
did anyone try other case? Currently PokerX and Pure CNC case were confirmed.
Aren't there anyone with Poker 2 and Poker 3 case to try the PCB?
In particular Poker 3 has no tolerance on its connector hole, so I'd like to know if it can fit into the case.
From first post:
- Confirm case fitness
-Poker X original plastic caseOK (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1706097#msg1706097) OK (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1737553#msg1737553)
-Pure CNC metalOK (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1743554#msg1743554)
- Poker 2
- Poker 3
- V60
- Other custom cases
Price
Assembled PCB: $35
includes unsoldered diodes(through hole device). You have to solder the diodes(and switches, of course) yourself.
All SMT components except for the diodes are soldered on PCB by me.
UnAssembled PCB: $22
This includes blank/empty PCB and compoenents including diodes. You have to solder all components yourself.
Raw PCB: $12
Just blank/empty PCB only.
Shipping:$10$8.5 + $1.5 * (# of PCB)
Registered air mail with insurance. It takes 7-10 days to most of countries
If you order two PCBs add $2.Add $1.5 per PCB to base cost $8.5.
Note that shipping cost for a PCB is $10, not $8.5.
For example,
One Assembled PCB: 35+10=45
Two Assembled PCB:35*2+10+2=8235*2 + 8.5 + 1.5*2 = 81.5
Caveat
-PCB design is not changed, quite same as first run(Rev.A).Changed to fix ISO enter problem (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1760955#msg1760955) and PCB is Rev.B now.
- Assembled PCB are soldered all electric components except for diodes and swtiches.
- You'll get unsoldered diodes(around 70) if you order 'Assembled PCB'. Diodes are for Through Hole, not for Surface Mount.
- Raw PCB($12) is availablebut components are not. Please buy them from digikey, mouser or etc.and you can take components for $10.
- Confirmed the PCB fits into Poker X, Poker II, Hammer Alu and Pure CNC case, but unclear about other cases including Pok3r and V60 at this time. See TODO section below.
- Most of layouts are confirmed but 'Infinity bottom row' and 'bigass enter' are not tried yet. See TODO section below.
- Order will be prioritized depending on the list.
BOM for Alps64 keyboard
=======================
Ref Value Footprint Component
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
C1 4.7u C_3216 any
C2 1u C_1608 10%
C3 22p C_1608
C4 22p C_1608
C5 0.1u C_1608
C6 0.1u C_1608
J1 USB_mini_B USB_miniB_hirose_new UX60SC-MB-5S8 Hirose
R1 22 R_1608
R2 22 R_1608
R3 10K R_1608
SW100 SW_PUSH SW_ALPS_SKRP ALPS tactile switch
U1 ATMEGA32U2 QFP32 ATMega32u2 Atmel
X1 CRYSTAL FA-238 16MHz
D*64 DIODE SOD-123 or Axial 1N4148
Thanks for your quick payments, all.
Updated the list in the first post, let me know if I missed your payment.
Payment and PM sent.Me too!
I'm excited!
For those on the second run, does anyone want to organize a plate GB? I'm not located in the US, so it wouldn't be optimal for me to do it, but perhaps we could get help from the hosts of the first plate GB!Where would you get the plate mounted stabilizers from?
For those on the second run, does anyone want to organize a plate GB? I'm not located in the US, so it wouldn't be optimal for me to do it, but perhaps we could get help from the hosts of the first plate GB!Where would you get the plate mounted stabilizers from?
I saw some mention of interest in a dell layout in the AEK II plate IC thread. What are the differences between the two?
I would also love an AEK 2 plate simply because the AEK 2 key caps are really nice.
I love the caps on the AEKII I use at work.
I'm planning on getting one as a donor for this build either from the AEK2 group buy, or on ebay.
Speaking of caps, does a AEK2 sized PBT spacebar exist anywhere? I'd love to replace the ABS one on my work board, as well as the one for this build.
I love the caps on the AEKII I use at work.
I'm planning on getting one as a donor for this build either from the AEK2 group buy, or on ebay.
Speaking of caps, does a AEK2 sized PBT spacebar exist anywhere? I'd love to replace the ABS one on my work board, as well as the one for this build.
Is there a GB for AEK2? I would love to get one too for this 60% build. Link please!
I love the caps on the AEKII I use at work.
I'm planning on getting one as a donor for this build either from the AEK2 group buy, or on ebay.
Speaking of caps, does a AEK2 sized PBT spacebar exist anywhere? I'd love to replace the ABS one on my work board, as well as the one for this build.
Is there a GB for AEK2? I would love to get one too for this 60% build. Link please!
Closed, though. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71416.0
I love the caps on the AEKII I use at work.
I'm planning on getting one as a donor for this build either from the AEK2 group buy, or on ebay.
Speaking of caps, does a AEK2 sized PBT spacebar exist anywhere? I'd love to replace the ABS one on my work board, as well as the one for this build.
Is there a GB for AEK2? I would love to get one too for this 60% build. Link please!
Closed, though. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71416.0
Mainly because I'm doing it out of pocket right now and they are obscenely slow and bad about communication.
I love the caps on the AEKII I use at work.
I'm planning on getting one as a donor for this build either from the AEK2 group buy, or on ebay.
Speaking of caps, does a AEK2 sized PBT spacebar exist anywhere? I'd love to replace the ABS one on my work board, as well as the one for this build.
Is there a GB for AEK2? I would love to get one too for this 60% build. Link please!
Closed, though. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71416.0
Mainly because I'm doing it out of pocket right now and they are obscenely slow and bad about communication.
Hopefully we can figure out a better way to proceed the second time around, and I'd not want you to do it out of pocket either.
Also do you guys think this case would be a good fit for this project?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/tex-metal-case?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Transactional%3A%20Drop%20Request%20Launched&mode=guest_open
That's also a nice case, but a little different from the one I linked! I prefer the Massdrop one with the uniform edge thickness (the MK one is thicker at the front) :)The black version on MK has the uniform wall thickness. I personally really like the thicker front edge. But Tex confuses me...why change the design and have both floating around for sale without somehow differintiating one from the other?
Because a lot of these small companies don't understand product marketing. They never consider how confusing their own product offerings may seem to the uninitiated potential customer.That's also a nice case, but a little different from the one I linked! I prefer the Massdrop one with the uniform edge thickness (the MK one is thicker at the front) :)The black version on MK has the uniform wall thickness. I personally really like the thicker front edge. But Tex confuses me...why change the design and have both floating around for sale without somehow differintiating one from the other?
The black case they're selling on MK is actually not the same case as the one offered on Massdrop:
The case on MD is made by TEX, CNC'd, and anodizing is performed by the factory that does anodizing for Lian-Li computer cases.Show Image(https://massdrop-cf2.imgix.net/resizer/1500x1000/r/MD-2888_20140813222515_b668a99278fb1782.jpg?fm=jpg&q=70)
The case on MK is made by VORTEX, is not CNC'd but cast aluminum instead, not sure where the anodizing is done.Show Image(https://massdrop-cf2.imgix.net/resizer/1500x1000/r/MD-3324_20140813100513_744bc770550f0245.jpg?fm=jpg&q=70)
Profile is also a little different! Both have low bezels (floaty), but the TEX is flat and uses aluminum feet while VORTEX has the incline built into the case itself.
Not to be a stickler for details, but just hoping to educate and clarify the differences :) Cheers
Any ideas about a plate gb yet, whether it be another round of AEK ll, or something else?
Great news! Thank you, hasu. I'm crossing my fingers for a round 2 of the plate group buy.
Great news! Thank you, hasu. I'm crossing my fingers for a round 2 of the plate group buy.
Me too, since you got Frostytoast's spot. ;D
Hey guys, was just wondering if the SG keyboards would make for nice keycap donors?
Also, does it come with a plate and what is the material of the keycaps? Not sure if these are priced well, but they're new.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Silicon-Graphics-RT6856T-062-0002-001-Grey-Keyboard-Granite-PS-2-SGI-/261912496815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfb338aaf
Today, some of the orders were shipped, some of you may receive an email with tracking number from Japan Post.I was very excited to get that email today! Thanks Hasu!! :)
Other orders will be posted in a week.
may i ask what switches ppl are going to use?
may i ask what switches ppl are going to use?
Discovered I've got 58 Brown Alps and nubbinator's plate takes 60 switches. Going to use 58 Brown Alps and two Matias Quiets unless I can find two extra Browns.
It's still up in the air for me...I've got a M0116 with salmons which are awesome switches but I don't really want to kill the board for them so I think I'm either going black alps (maybe modded to linear, I'm not sure yet) or dampened creams (I haven't used them enough to decide if I like them yet :D).
It's still up in the air for me...I've got a M0116 with salmons which are awesome switches but I don't really want to kill the board for them so I think I'm either going black alps (maybe modded to linear, I'm not sure yet) or dampened creams (I haven't used them enough to decide if I like them yet :D).
i have a m0116 too. which is handwired. Will not kill that :)
It's still up in the air for me...I've got a M0116 with salmons which are awesome switches but I don't really want to kill the board for them so I think I'm either going black alps (maybe modded to linear, I'm not sure yet) or dampened creams (I haven't used them enough to decide if I like them yet :D).
i have a m0116 too. which is handwired. Will not kill that :)
Nice, pics? I'm planning to do the same at some point, I've got a bit of time off at the end of the year so I'll probably crack it out then.
I have a bunch of matias clicks that'll be here tomorrow if you need.
Clicks
CPT, I don't suppose you have two more Matias Quiets you'd be willing to part with? I broke two while building my Infinity a few weeks ago and I've been using two oranges in their place.
Hey guys, was just wondering if the SG keyboards would make for nice keycap donors?
Also, does it come with a plate and what is the material of the keycaps? Not sure if these are priced well, but they're new.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Silicon-Graphics-RT6856T-062-0002-001-Grey-Keyboard-Granite-PS-2-SGI-/261912496815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfb338aaf
All orders were shipped today!Thank you hasu! I am so excited and can't wait to see it in my mailbox!
Tracking number will be mailed to your PayPal email address in several
hours or a day. PM me unless you don't receive it.
All orders were shipped today!
Tracking number will be mailed to your PayPal email address in several
hours or a day. PM me unless you don't receive it.
Thanks hasu.Hack up an old AT101w? That's my plan :D.
Now to figure out what I'm going to do about a plate.
Thanks hasu.Hack up an old AT101w? That's my plan :D.
Now to figure out what I'm going to do about a plate.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73138.0
Well, I'll be willing to do another plate buy next month for the AT101 layout since I think JD said he'd make the plate file. I'll just have a GB MOQ of 25, the price will be a little higher than before, and all plates must be paid for before I order since the last set was out of pocket.
Thanks all for your support for this project!
Attached firmware binary file in the first post. It is same as a firmware uploaded to 'Assembled PCB' when shipped. Use this file if you have any trouble with compiling firmware yourself.
To define your keymap you have to edit and compile it from source code, anyway.
Enjoy!
Those cases appear to have thicker PCB support fins than plastic Poker case does. I'm not sure this PCB has enough clearance for the thick fins, current clearance is around 2.3mm in design but it may depends on how you solder diodes too.
I also received mine yesterday! I had all my orange alps switches harvested and ready to go, and having recently received my AEKII plate from Nubbinator, I jumped right in on the assembly.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/289/19358044225_cee86ba86b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vuB38c)
Orange Alps Custom Keyboard (https://flic.kr/p/vuB38c) by Nick Bair (https://www.flickr.com/photos/njbair/), on Flickr
Everything's working fine so far as I've tested it. My keycaps have been cleaned and are drying. I'm still not sure on my plans for a case but I'll probably try something unique for this already very unique project.
Those cases appear to have thicker PCB support fins than plastic Poker case does. I'm not sure this PCB has enough clearance for the thick fins, current clearance is around 2.3mm in design but it may depends on how you solder diodes too.
I plan on using a TEX aluminum case. Besides ease of access to the diodes, would there be any issue with mounting the diode on the other side of the PCB if one of those support fins is causing an obstruction?
Still waiting on mine. Tracking hasn't changed since 6/25 when the package arrived at "office of inward exchange" (customs) here in the US. :(
$ cat /etc/udev/rules.d/50-atmel-dfu.rules
# Atmel ATMega32U4
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ff4", MODE:="0666"
# Atmel USBKEY AT90USB1287
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ffb", MODE:="0666"
# Atmel ATMega32U2
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ff0", MODE:="0666"
I have a problem uploading the firmware to keyboard. I pressed the white button to start bootloader mode and when I do lsusb in terminal, I can see a device described as "Atmel Corp." (it's not there before pressing the white button). However, when I run "make dfu", it shows the following:
avr-objcopy -O ihex -R .eeprom -R .fuse -R .lock -R .signature alps64.elf alps64.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase
dfu-programmer: no device present.
make: *** [dfu] Error 1
I am not very sure about what's wrong here. Any advice is appreciated!
Probably you don't have proper permission for the USB device.Oh I forgot to use sudo. It now works perfect. Thank you!
Use sudo or do udev setting. This is my udev rule file.Code: [Select]$ cat /etc/udev/rules.d/50-atmel-dfu.rules
# Atmel ATMega32U4
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ff4", MODE:="0666"
# Atmel USBKEY AT90USB1287
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ffb", MODE:="0666"
# Atmel ATMega32U2
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="03eb", ATTRS{idProduct}=="2ff0", MODE:="0666"I have a problem uploading the firmware to keyboard. I pressed the white button to start bootloader mode and when I do lsusb in terminal, I can see a device described as "Atmel Corp." (it's not there before pressing the white button). However, when I run "make dfu", it shows the following:
avr-objcopy -O ihex -R .eeprom -R .fuse -R .lock -R .signature alps64.elf alps64.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase
dfu-programmer: no device present.
make: *** [dfu] Error 1
I am not very sure about what's wrong here. Any advice is appreciated!
This is my board. Case, plate, switches (Matias quiet) are all from KBP V60. It looks identical to regular V60 but it's powered by TMK PCB and firmware! It's so much better than KBP stock firmware.
Best build log ever badboybry Holy ****. Interesting how you put solder on both sides of the diodes. I only solder the bottom side where the legs stick out.
Amazing trick with tweezers and the keyswitch tester.
Best build log ever badboybry Holy ****. Interesting how you put solder on both sides of the diodes. I only solder the bottom side where the legs stick out.
Amazing trick with tweezers and the keyswitch tester.
Thanks so much cptbaddass! I wish I had recorded my other builds the same way.
I put solder on both sides of only certain diodes. That aluminum case I used has extra wide pcb supports compared to the stock poker II case which would have obstructed some diodes. So I had to mount certain diodes on the other side between the pcb and plate. The leads also had to be cut perfectly flush with the pcb. So I soldered on one side just to hold the diodes in place so I could get a flush cut when I flipped the pcb over.
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
:O So cool! Thanks for posting that!
What plate are you using on that build?
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
:O So cool! Thanks for posting that!
What plate are you using on that build?
The one from my group buy.
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
I love it! Can't wait to build mine....I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
:O So cool! Thanks for posting that!
What plate are you using on that build?
The one from my group buy.
I put solder on both sides of only certain diodes. That aluminum case I used has extra wide pcb supports compared to the stock poker II case which would have obstructed some diodes. So I had to mount certain diodes on the other side between the pcb and plate. The leads also had to be cut perfectly flush with the pcb. So I soldered on one side just to hold the diodes in place so I could get a flush cut when I flipped the pcb over.
I love it! Can't wait to build mine....
Could you explain the one black switch where Ctrl/Caps goes?
Any ideas about a plate gb yet, whether it be another round of AEK ll, or something else?
I think it would make sense to run the next one as a standard ANSI plate, for those with caps from the Dell AT101 or what have you. People could trade with others to get the AEK II ones, if some people ordered more than what they needed.
We will just have to wait until nubbinator is finished with the current plate buy, and see how he feels about running another one.
Really nicely done and thanks for the video!
What is your alu case actually? And how thick is pcb support of the case?
I hope there is a round 3 for this group buy because I would be so ready ;D
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
I don't have a unique photo to show off, but I did record a time-lapse of the entire build. Lame music is from YouTube's free music library.
https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA (https://youtu.be/iPFpRDYz2cA)
(Attachment Link)
I saw that.
It looks as though there are a few of us that are interested in another round for this GB :)
Thanks all for your support.
Seems like most of second run orders has arrived, except for two. I'll continue to deal with those two until final delivery.
Post problem or findind during your build so that I can revise PCB design from your feedback.
Rround 3 can be organized if we take orders of twenty more PCBs. But before start it I'd like to wait enough for feedbacks from Rev.A and Rev.B PCB users. After some period I'll be able to part with left over from second run, around five boards before Round 3.
I've always wanted an ALPS 60% board, I kinda suck at soldering though...If you get in round 3, I'll be happy to solder it for you.
If anyone in the UK needs a plastic 60% case I've got them on my webstore? (shameless plug)
Nice job SJHL. that plate looks like it was custom CNC'd!
Thank you!I also like how you put a white on the capslock I'm definitely going to copy that :P
Lovely job, is the TEX acrylic case available anywhere other than MD?
Took some pictures of my completed board:This looks great! I really hope there is a 3rd round.
http://imgur.com/a/DZXiZ
Thanks Hasu for the PCB and Nubb for the plate!
That's probably a locking cream alps. At least I hope it is haha. I have one on the function layer key on my Minitouch.
I'm curious about how to implement this as well. I'm planning on using a locking switch for my build.
Hasu has documentation for capslock, numlock, and scroll lock, with a locking switch but I haven't seen documentation for fn lock with a locking switch. Perhaps I missed or misread something.
Has anyone looked into replacement PBT spacebars that would match an AEKII set?Matias is working on ALPS PBT caps and there are multiple sizes of spacebar. There might be one that fits AEKII.
Does anyone know the size of the AEKII spacebar? I might look around and see if we can find a PBT alternative.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unduVa.jpg)
and done!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unduVa.jpg)
and done!
Has anyone looked into replacement PBT spacebars that would match an AEKII set?Matias is working on ALPS PBT caps and there are multiple sizes of spacebar. There might be one that fits AEKII.
Does anyone know the size of the AEKII spacebar? I might look around and see if we can find a PBT alternative.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unduVa.jpg)
and done!
Nice dye job! Is it Dylon? What colors did you use?
Believe some of the datadesk adb keyboards?, also had a rounded f row that was a different color
Believe some of the datadesk adb keyboards?, also had a rounded f row that was a different color
Yep I was just about to say that. I had one when I was a kid. Had it for my Macintosh.
Here are pics of the DATADESK Lil'Big Board ADB keyboard that I'm guessing he used.Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0001.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0003.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0017.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0007.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0008.jpg)
Oh and don't get the LittleFingers. It is not Alps and the keycaps are too small anyway.
There is a review of it by xDezor Here
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39350.0
Believe some of the datadesk adb keyboards?, also had a rounded f row that was a different color
Yep I was just about to say that. I had one when I was a kid. Had it for my Macintosh.
Here are pics of the DATADESK Lil'Big Board ADB keyboard that I'm guessing he used.Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0001.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0003.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0017.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0007.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0008.jpg)
Oh and don't get the LittleFingers. It is not Alps and the keycaps are too small anyway.
There is a review of it by xDezor Here
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39350.0
Well great find! I have been looking for one of these for years... With the colored modifiers or not, but all I can find is the littlefingers one.Believe some of the datadesk adb keyboards?, also had a rounded f row that was a different color
Yep I was just about to say that. I had one when I was a kid. Had it for my Macintosh.
Here are pics of the DATADESK Lil'Big Board ADB keyboard that I'm guessing he used.Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0001.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0003.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0017.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0007.jpg)Show Image(https://www.vshopu.com/souldout/DD_LilBigBoard/DSCF0008.jpg)
Oh and don't get the LittleFingers. It is not Alps and the keycaps are too small anyway.
There is a review of it by xDezor Here
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39350.0
ye it was a lil big Datadesk
it had fake alps in it and one black on enter. i bought it just because i wanted the colored modifiers.
oh man Hasu, you are killing my freetime with this tmk firmware. now i have to create a million layers
This tapping function keys didn't work that great for me. I guess I tap too slow.
I'll part with leftover from round 2 before starting round 3 :D
Several preassembled PCBs are available, which have cosmetic flaws like scars, blur silk prints or etc but they work functionally without problem. PM me if you are interested in getting one.
It costs 35(PCB)+10(Shipping)=$45USD in total and see the first post for the detail.
As I said before all PCBs had more or less defects unfortunately because of sloppy production by cheap mediocre PCB house. The leftovers are a bit worse than others.
http://i.imgur.com/T4OilAr.jpg
Ugly silk prints and exposure of copper.
Now I have to wait until the 11th of next month to buy a leftover PCB, already exploded my budget for keyboards. :'(
I just hope that they are still available by that date...
My life's biggest regret is not getting in on this group buy. Rats.
Is there any place on this PCB that I might hook up a LED to? I really wish to have a LED as a layer indicator.
Thanks!Is there any place on this PCB that I might hook up a LED to? I really wish to have a LED as a layer indicator.
According to the schematics pins C4, C6, and C7 are unused.
They are not broken out anywhere so you will have to solder a wire directly to the chip.
I notice a small problem with V60 case. It's not a perfectly exact fit of the case and causes a slight deform. This makes the four rubber feet under the case not even, and also makes the spacebar get stuck with the case in rare occasions. From my observation, the bottom edge of the plate is now closer to the case, compared to the stock PCB. Can this be a problem of my assembly? Any idea how to fix this?
Which pins are you referring to?
Which pins are you referring to?
There are two plastic pins sticking up in the center of the V60 case that fit into holes in the bottom of the PCB.
Between T,Y and U,I.
I was thinking about 60% alps boards today, and this happened to show up on spy. I would love to get in for at least 2 if another round comes up.
Hasu, how much interest do you need before starting another group buy?
At this moment I don't know when next round starts but I made Google form for interest check. (This is mainly for purpose to learn how form works.)
Fill in the form if you are interested in next round of this PCB and check this thread periodically. I'll let you know via PM when it starts.
http://goo.gl/forms/8f8RcZICuk
You don't necessarily have to fill the form to get PCB, use it only if you need notice from me.
Thanks
I just expanded the two holes a little larger but it does not seem to work. The problem is probably not here. It might be from the USB connector. I compared the TMK PCB to the stock V60 PCB and the USB part is the only difference I can spot. (It will probably be easier to determine the problem if I don't have switches and plates over the PCB, but I really don't want to desolder all the switches and then solder them back). As shown in the following pictures, the USB part of the stock PCB is completely flat while the TMK one sticks out a little. Maybe this is the problem? Will anything bad happen if I flatten the sticking out part with a fine file?Which pins are you referring to?
There are two plastic pins sticking up in the center of the V60 case that fit into holes in the bottom of the PCB.
Between T,Y and U,I.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Mj51unC.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WiYtefc.jpg)
Those holes on my PCB should have been bigger for safer tolerance. I'll change them on next revision. I don't have V60 so let me know how the holes are off to the pins, it would be useful to fix.
Filing that part of PCB is probably alright.It looks to me that the two parts in red circle will be filed away if I file it. Is that really OK? That shiny part looks like soldering.
Filing that part of PCB is probably alright.It looks to me that the two parts in red circle will be filed away if I file it. Is that really OK? That shiny part looks like soldering.
(Attachment Link)
Filing that part of PCB is probably alright.It looks to me that the two parts in red circle will be filed away if I file it. Is that really OK? That shiny part looks like soldering.
(Attachment Link)
Thank you very much! I thought twice and concluded putting the PCB at risk is too much risk for me. If the PCB fails I will lose my precious programmable keyboard. I will file the case instead.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2apt2Cr.jpg)
Yes, the case is pressing against the little extended tab. I would file down the case though, instead of the PCB. You just need to remove enough so the tab will fit into the case a bit.
The two pins actually look ok as they are.
Thank you very much! I thought twice and concluded putting the PCB at risk is too much risk for me. If the PCB fails I will lose my precious programmable keyboard. I will file the case instead.
Thank you very much! I thought twice and concluded putting the PCB at risk is too much risk for me. If the PCB fails I will lose my precious programmable keyboard. I will file the case instead.
Decided to give it another try. Used a dremel with a small grinder wheel. Took off about half the thickness of the wall. You can't see it at all from the outside.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G0NbPb2.jpg)
Now the board stays flat when screwed down. The USB port sicks out a tiny bit from the back.
I always say, you can't have a custom keyboard without a rotary tool.The creator of the rotary tool should be made a saint by the Church, that's how important I see them. (I was into casemodding long before my interest on mechanical keyboards.)
Actually I've never said that before. But it's true probably?
hmm, will this case issue be a problem with a stock Poker II case?
damn! i have 108 alps creams that are from an apple extended ii that i want to make in to a custom board! then someone points me to this thread and i cant even buy this board! Very interested in a run 3 of this bad boy right here. i like how it looks with your apple key caps. i am planing on using the caps from the AEii as well on mine, the caps are rather clean and a nice grey color. i also like the unique legends on them. nice looking pcb at a very reasonable price! And from what i have read it fits nicely in a poker case?
IC for a relevant project will be up soonish. Keep your eyes peeled.
damn! i have 108 alps creams that are from an apple extended ii that i want to make in to a custom board! then someone points me to this thread and i cant even buy this board! Very interested in a run 3 of this bad boy right here. i like how it looks with your apple key caps. i am planing on using the caps from the AEii as well on mine, the caps are rather clean and a nice grey color. i also like the unique legends on them. nice looking pcb at a very reasonable price! And from what i have read it fits nicely in a poker case?
IC for a relevant project will be up soonish. Keep your eyes peeled.
IC for a relevant project will be up soonish. Keep your eyes peeled.
Oh really?
damn! i have 108 alps creams that are from an apple extended ii that i want to make in to a custom board! then someone points me to this thread and i cant even buy this board! Very interested in a run 3 of this bad boy right here. i like how it looks with your apple key caps. i am planing on using the caps from the AEii as well on mine, the caps are rather clean and a nice grey color. i also like the unique legends on them. nice looking pcb at a very reasonable price! And from what i have read it fits nicely in a poker case?
IC for a relevant project will be up soonish. Keep your eyes peeled.
Please post about it here for us lazy folks!
/usr/bin/sh: dfu-programmer: command not found
/usr/bin/sh: dfu-programmer: command not found
-------- begin --------
avr-gcc (WinAVR 20100110) 4.3.3
Copyright (C) 2008 Free Software Foundation, Inc.
This is free software; see the source for copying conditions. There is NO
warranty; not even for MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
mkdir -p obj_alps64
Compiling C: keymap_plain.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u2 -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -DINTERRUPT_CONTROL_ENDPOINT -DBOOTLOADER_SIZE=4096 -DF_USB=16000000UL -DARCH=ARCH_AVR8 -DUSB_DEVICE_ONLY -DUSE_FLASH_DESCRIPTORS -DUSE_STATIC_OPTIONS="(USB_DEVICE_OPT_FULLSPEED | USB_OPT_REG_ENABLED | USB_OPT_AUTO_PLL)" -DFIXED_CONTROL_ENDPOINT_SIZE=8 -DFIXED_NUM_CONFIGURATIONS=1 -DPROTOCOL_LUFA -DEXTRAKEY_ENABLE -DCONSOLE_ENABLE -DCOMMAND_ENABLE -DVERSION=unknown -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-inline-small-functions -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -fno-strict-aliasing -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=obj_alps64/keymap_plain.lst -I. -I../../tmk_core -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/LUFA-git -I../../tmk_core/common -std=gnu99 -include config.h -MMD -MP -MF .dep/obj_alps64_keymap_plain.o.d keymap_plain.c -o obj_alps64/keymap_plain.o
mkdir -p obj_alps64
Compiling C: keymap_common.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u2 -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -DINTERRUPT_CONTROL_ENDPOINT -DBOOTLOADER_SIZE=4096 -DF_USB=16000000UL -DARCH=ARCH_AVR8 -DUSB_DEVICE_ONLY -DUSE_FLASH_DESCRIPTORS -DUSE_STATIC_OPTIONS="(USB_DEVICE_OPT_FULLSPEED | USB_OPT_REG_ENABLED | USB_OPT_AUTO_PLL)" -DFIXED_CONTROL_ENDPOINT_SIZE=8 -DFIXED_NUM_CONFIGURATIONS=1 -DPROTOCOL_LUFA -DEXTRAKEY_ENABLE -DCONSOLE_ENABLE -DCOMMAND_ENABLE -DVERSION=unknown -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-inline-small-functions -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -fno-strict-aliasing -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=obj_alps64/keymap_common.lst -I. -I../../tmk_core -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/LUFA-git -I../../tmk_core/common -std=gnu99 -include config.h -MMD -MP -MF .dep/obj_alps64_keymap_common.o.d keymap_common.c -o obj_alps64/keymap_common.o
mkdir -p obj_alps64
Compiling C: matrix.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u2 -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -DINTERRUPT_CONTROL_ENDPOINT -DBOOTLOADER_SIZE=4096 -DF_USB=16000000UL -DARCH=ARCH_AVR8 -DUSB_DEVICE_ONLY -DUSE_FLASH_DESCRIPTORS -DUSE_STATIC_OPTIONS="(USB_DEVICE_OPT_FULLSPEED | USB_OPT_REG_ENABLED | USB_OPT_AUTO_PLL)" -DFIXED_CONTROL_ENDPOINT_SIZE=8 -DFIXED_NUM_CONFIGURATIONS=1 -DPROTOCOL_LUFA -DEXTRAKEY_ENABLE -DCONSOLE_ENABLE -DCOMMAND_ENABLE -DVERSION=unknown -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-inline-small-functions -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -fno-strict-aliasing -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=obj_alps64/matrix.lst -I. -I../../tmk_core -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/LUFA-git -I../../tmk_core/common -std=gnu99 -include config.h -MMD -MP -MF .dep/obj_alps64_matrix.o.d matrix.c -o obj_alps64/matrix.o
mkdir -p obj_alps64
Compiling C: led.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u2 -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -DINTERRUPT_CONTROL_ENDPOINT -DBOOTLOADER_SIZE=4096 -DF_USB=16000000UL -DARCH=ARCH_AVR8 -DUSB_DEVICE_ONLY -DUSE_FLASH_DESCRIPTORS -DUSE_STATIC_OPTIONS="(USB_DEVICE_OPT_FULLSPEED | USB_OPT_REG_ENABLED | USB_OPT_AUTO_PLL)" -DFIXED_CONTROL_ENDPOINT_SIZE=8 -DFIXED_NUM_CONFIGURATIONS=1 -DPROTOCOL_LUFA -DEXTRAKEY_ENABLE -DCONSOLE_ENABLE -DCOMMAND_ENABLE -DVERSION=unknown -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-inline-small-functions -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -fno-strict-aliasing -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=obj_alps64/led.lst -I. -I../../tmk_core -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/LUFA-git -I../../tmk_core/common -std=gnu99 -include config.h -MMD -MP -MF .dep/obj_alps64_led.o.d led.c -o obj_alps64/led.o
mkdir -p obj_alps64/protocol/lufa
Compiling C: ../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c
avr-gcc -c -mmcu=atmega32u2 -gdwarf-2 -DF_CPU=16000000UL -DINTERRUPT_CONTROL_ENDPOINT -DBOOTLOADER_SIZE=4096 -DF_USB=16000000UL -DARCH=ARCH_AVR8 -DUSB_DEVICE_ONLY -DUSE_FLASH_DESCRIPTORS -DUSE_STATIC_OPTIONS="(USB_DEVICE_OPT_FULLSPEED | USB_OPT_REG_ENABLED | USB_OPT_AUTO_PLL)" -DFIXED_CONTROL_ENDPOINT_SIZE=8 -DFIXED_NUM_CONFIGURATIONS=1 -DPROTOCOL_LUFA -DEXTRAKEY_ENABLE -DCONSOLE_ENABLE -DCOMMAND_ENABLE -DVERSION=unknown -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-inline-small-functions -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -fno-strict-aliasing -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=obj_alps64/protocol/lufa/lufa.lst -I. -I../../tmk_core -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa -I../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/LUFA-git -I../../tmk_core/common -std=gnu99 -include config.h -MMD -MP -MF .dep/obj_alps64_protocol_lufa_lufa.o.d ../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c -o obj_alps64/protocol/lufa/lufa.o
../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c: In function 'setup_mcu':
../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c:575: warning: implicit declaration of function 'clock_prescale_set'
../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c:575: error: 'clock_div_1' undeclared (first use in this function)
../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c:575: error: (Each undeclared identifier is reported only once
../../tmk_core/protocol/lufa/lufa.c:575: error: for each function it appears in.)
make: *** [obj_alps64/protocol/lufa/lufa.o] Error 1
Probably your toolchanin is too old to support ATMega32u2. Atmel AVR toolchain should work.
http://www.atmel.com/ja/jp/tools/ATMELAVRTOOLCHAINFORWINDOWS.aspx
I've always felt like writing how to install toolchain on windows but my laziness always wins.
I got updated my note to Win10 the otherday and have a plan to do it for the OS but ...
What are the odds it damaged the Atmega32u2? USB has power protection so it should be alright? I imagine the disconnecting of my mouse was USB cutting power to save itself.Yes, the newer PCs cut off USB when it starts drawing too much power.
By the way, if those were supposed to be 0.1uF caps, then it is possible (even likely) that the board will work without them at all, although probably quite unreliably. They're 'just' for filtering the IC noise. I have some atxmega chips which run quite fine without these filtering caps. Not really recommended, but you might try it just to test before the caps arrive.
Finally got around to soldering my boards. When I plugged it in to flash the firmware it wouldn't recognize over USB and oddly disconnected my mouse. Took out my multi meter to poke around and found there was a short. After resoldering all the caps and the usb connector a few times the short was still there. I realized my soldering skills aren't that bad so I had a closer look at the '0.1uf caps'. I say '0.1uf caps' because they weren't caps at all. Based on the almost flat and black package with 000 etched on the top it looks like Digikey fudged my order and gave me 0 ohm resistors instead. What are the odds it damaged the Atmega32u2? USB has power protection so it should be alright? I imagine the disconnecting of my mouse was USB cutting power to save itself.
Anyways, they gave me unnecessary overnight shipping on $0.19 of smd caps :))
i hope another round of these can be done! i was silly not to order one when I had the chance :(
I won't do that.Alright, thanks.
But feel free to use my KiCad file to design your own PCB and run GB if you need.
BTW, how are you going to get key caps for that layout?
i hope another round of these can be done! i was silly not to order one when I had the chance :(
i hope another round of these can be done! i was silly not to order one when I had the chance :(
Same here, hopefully there will be a second round with a possible v2.0 of the board.
Anyone have firmware to match KBP V60's layout? If so, it would save me a lot of time :))
On the KBP, you're able to press Alt+Enter to enable arrow keys on the Shift, ctrl, win, func keys. Are you able to make the TMK firmware do the same thing?It's possible but there is no LED on the TMK PCB so you can't tell if the the arrow key layer is activated. One solution is to use dual role keys like this https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41685.0. I now like dual role more than the KBP design.
Anyone have firmware to match KBP V60's layout? If so, it would save me a lot of time :))
Just wanted to post this here to say thanks to hasu for this awesome PCB and a super fun project.European Portuguese layout (slightly modified), nice. :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/GvNDY16.jpg)
TMK keymap editor for Alps64 is available now.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html
My Alps64 keymap URL, for example.Morehttp://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html#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
TMK keymap editor for Alps64 is available now.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html
My Alps64 keymap URL, for example.Morehttp://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html#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
TMK keymap editor for Alps64 is available now.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html
My Alps64 keymap URL, for example.Morehttp://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html#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
I took my keyboard apart today and find something on the edge of the PCB. It seems like some coating is peeling off a little. Should I worry about this?Solder mask is originally a liquid that is applied to the PCB and then let to cure. It looks like droplets formed at the bottom of the PCB, nothing to be worried about.
(Attachment Link)
I took my keyboard apart today and find something on the edge of the PCB. It seems like some coating is peeling off a little. Should I worry about this?
(Attachment Link)
I also don't think it is critical damage but not sure what happens.Do you mean this could be a damage caused by the case? I don't see exactly how the case can cause this damage but I also don't remember seeing this the last time I took apart my keyboard.
Screwed down too tight? or I think your case is KBP V60, so the PCB does not perfectly fit inside?
Program Controller
To enter program mode hook up to USB port and push button on bottom of PCB.
Hmm, is there one for 60% ANSI? This is ISO:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1927747#msg1927747 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1927747#msg1927747)
How do you upload the keymap firmware to the controller?
Hmm, is there one for 60% ANSI? This is ISO:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1927747#msg1927747 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg1927747#msg1927747)
How do you upload the keymap firmware to the controller?
Ignore the keys your board does not have.
Download DFU Flip programmer from ATMEL.
Program Controller
To enter program mode hook up to USB port and push button on bottom of PCB.
That user would be me! I was able to put the keyboard into programming mode, but FLIP is giving me the error "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found." I have selected the ATmega32U2 device (originally we thought maybe it was ATmega32U4, but I get the same error there as well.)
I plugged the keyboard in, then installed FLIP, then after the program was installed I put the keyboard into programming mode.
Device manager shows the device but shows the error "The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28) There are no compatible drivers for this device."
I plugged the keyboard in, then installed FLIP, then after the program was installed I put the keyboard into programming mode.
Device manager shows the device but shows the error "The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28) There are no compatible drivers for this device."
I plugged the keyboard in, then installed FLIP, then after the program was installed I put the keyboard into programming mode.
Device manager shows the device but shows the error "The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28) There are no compatible drivers for this device."
This might help: http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy (http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy)
Please someone confirms me does this pcb fits the FMJ case? Thank you
Yeah it fit fine, not sure if you mean diodes or something on pcb would be in the way. I never screwed it down cause I do not have screws yet though. I will get some in and let you know. Here is a pic, not screwed in though.Please someone confirms me does this pcb fits the FMJ case? Thank you
It's standard Poker. I believe nickheller had his in a FMJ case and it fit.
However, a similar test shorting K(a)(b) and D(a)(b) on the failing keys is still NOT registering anything.
Yeah, I was just thinkg about reodering PCB. I'll order them in small scale and sell here or artisan thread. Anyway, I'll post updates here if something happens.
Yeah, I was just thinkg about reodering PCB. I'll order them in small scale and sell here or artisan thread. Anyway, I'll post updates here if something happens.
This is great news. Maybe another plate from someone? I would totally love an ALPS plate that has support for Cherry plate stabilizers (if that would even work)!
Yeah, I was just thinkg about reodering PCB. I'll order them in small scale and sell here or artisan thread. Anyway, I'll post updates here if something happens.
Hey guys, Thanks for your interest
OK. I'll start 4th run and taking order. Please use email to make my invoicing process easy. my email is hasu@tmk-kbd.com.
Just let me know quantitiy you want(and your paypal account is not same as your email) I'll send paypal invoice and message.
Sorry, I can't offer any plate you can get only PCB from me, and price and shipping cost was revised from past runs.
Pirce: $37USD per PCB
Shipping and Paypal fee: $10(add $2.5 per extra PCB)
For example, one PCB costs 47 while two PCBs costs 86.5 in total.
It takes probably two or three weeks utill shipping starts.
No MOQ but max quantity in this batch is 25.
If you have any question post it here. Feel free to ask me with PM/email if it includes sensitive info.
Thanks,
There are also a couple of plates floating around Taobao that support Alps, but you might run into trouble with stabilizers.If it isn't a lot of trouble, do you have links?
Got emails and 21 pcbs were claimed.
I'll send invoice in a few days.
Thanks,
Hi all,
Paypal invoices were sent for all orders.
I assembled a few and tested them, no problem. It'll take two weeks to production and then shipping will start after that.
Thanks
Hi all,
Paypal invoices were sent for all orders.
I assembled a few and tested them, no problem. It'll take two weeks to production and then shipping will start after that.
Thanks
Was this a new rev of the PCB?
* 51d2223 Update README for Rev.D
* f446230 Fix X'tal foot print and ground connection
* f0fdba5 Change vaules of C and R and add logo.
Nice. Any plans to add led support for those who have sk cl greens with LED cut out?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I have no plan practically but am still interested in thinking how to implement.
- Can we source the rectangular LEDs that fits in the hole of SKCL?
- Can Matias switches be glowed with LEDs? How?
- What are people going to use the LEDs for? Just status indicatior, backlight or fancy disco illumination with full control of each and every leds?Nice. Any plans to add led support for those who have sk cl greens with LED cut out?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
could you clarify which part of AEK ISO isn't compatible with alps64?
[GB UPDATE]Damn that's quick :eek: excited !
Production of PCBs was almost done.
Today shipped some PCBs, rest of orders will be fulfiled in a week.
[GB UPDATE]Damn that's quick :eek: excited !
Production of PCBs was almost done.
Today shipped some PCBs, rest of orders will be fulfiled in a week.
[GB UPDATE]Damn that's quick :eek: excited !
Production of PCBs was almost done.
Today shipped some PCBs, rest of orders will be fulfiled in a week.
I think he said he wanted everything out in three weeks.
hasu doesn't disappoint. I don't think he actually knows how to disappoint... Haha
Sent from my iPhone
Can't wait for mine! Will be using it with a custom plate :)
I'm using this (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/GH60-compact-keyboard-base-seat-POKERII-60-mechanical-keyboard-poker2-plastic-frame-case-gaming-keyboard-FACEU/32448283161.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.19.gAAk6a&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201602_5_10017_10034_10021_507_10022_10032_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_9&btsid=97f8d5a0-8096-42c1-b243-83a12ebcb081). For a little extra (~twice the money :o) you can get some fancy colors (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Compact-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-gh-60-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32506927327.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.10.QnMAXc&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201602_5_10017_10034_10021_507_10022_10032_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_9&btsid=97f8d5a0-8096-42c1-b243-83a12ebcb081). These are basically stock Poker 2 cases. Very good for the money.hasu doesn't disappoint. I don't think he actually knows how to disappoint... Haha
Sent from my iPhone
Can't wait for mine! Will be using it with a custom plate :)
same :) just need to find a 60% case on the cheap.
Got mine yesterday! Like the new logo :thumb:
Got mine yesterday! Like the new logo :thumb:
Ooh, pics?
Hi all,
All of orders from 4th run were shipped now. You will recevie tracking number with email from Japan Post within a day. If not let me know via email.
Thank you
Mine just came as well, in just three business days too! :eek:
PCBs seem to work just fine based on the initial test. Thanks Hasu! ;D
Mine just came as well, in just three business days too! :eek:Are you in the US?
PCBs seem to work just fine based on the initial test. Thanks Hasu! ;D
Hasu, I am using the alps64 hex generator website:
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html
I cannot get left or right alt keys to work on any layers or keys. I have tested the all the switches for various other commands, and they seem to work fine. I even mapped L7 to a key and alt to that same key, but that didn't work. Need my alt + tab T_T
Are there any plans for a 75% or TKL variant? I would definitely buy that.https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.0;topicseen
19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
When you say all components, does that include stabilizers/plates? I'm having a tough time finding a source for stabs, and there's an IC for the plates going on right now.
19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
When you say all components, does that include stabilizers/plates? I'm having a tough time finding a source for stabs, and there's an IC for the plates going on right now.
19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
When you say all components, does that include stabilizers/plates? I'm having a tough time finding a source for stabs, and there's an IC for the plates going on right now.
Wow! I am almost tempted to buy another PCB but I already got two Alps64s in the pipeline. :p19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
When you say all components, does that include stabilizers/plates? I'm having a tough time finding a source for stabs, and there's an IC for the plates going on right now.
Hm, I think Matias stabilizers are more or less identical to old Alps ones so those ought to work just fine.
Wow! I am almost tempted to buy another PCB but I already got two Alps64s in the pipeline. :p19 PCBs are available from this run. PCBs and all components are already stocked and assembly will start in a few days.
When you say all components, does that include stabilizers/plates? I'm having a tough time finding a source for stabs, and there's an IC for the plates going on right now.
Hm, I think Matias stabilizers are more or less identical to old Alps ones so those ought to work just fine.
The Matias stabs are pretty close to the old ones. They use the same type of clips and such. However, do note that some users (including myself) have reported that the Matias wires are odd lengths, so you may need to re-bend some of them. After doing that, they work great.
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I sent an email asking to order a pcb but didn't get a paypal invoice afterwards. Was I too late?
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Awesome, thanks!I sent an email asking to order a pcb but didn't get a paypal invoice afterwards. Was I too late?
No, not too late at all :D 10+ PCBs are still available.
I've been away from home these days and cannot check order emails now. I'll be back home and reply them in a few days.
Thanks
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Thanks, I will try this when I next add something to my keyboard. :thumb:
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Thanks, I will try this when I next add something to my keyboard. :thumb:
This is precompiled firmware with wakeup fix. Try it.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks
I think it might just be the fact that I am running Windows 10 on x58.
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Thanks, I will try this when I next add something to my keyboard. :thumb:
This is precompiled firmware with wakeup fix. Try it.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks
I flashed this to my keyboard and tested it, it did not wake it from sleep.
I think it might just be the fact that I am running Windows 10 on x58.
I can cope with it though, I can just use my mouse or my numpad.
Thanks though and sorry for being a bother.
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Thanks, I will try this when I next add something to my keyboard. :thumb:
This is precompiled firmware with wakeup fix. Try it.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks
I flashed this to my keyboard and tested it, it did not wake it from sleep.
I think it might just be the fact that I am running Windows 10 on x58.
I can cope with it though, I can just use my mouse or my numpad.
Thanks though and sorry for being a bother.
Thanks for your test.
hm, it can have problem with USB3 or some system.
I confirmed it can wake up Windows10 on my Thinkpad X201s but I don't have system with USB3 or x58 to test now. I'll leave this issue open on github and test it on newer system if I get a chance.
Do we have any PCB left for this 5th run?
Dell ISO?
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Thanks for the response! Do you know of any custom plates that would suit my needs, or would I have to make/adapt my own?Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Alps switches are generally plate mount only.
If you want a 60% AEKII ISO, your only option currently is to use a custom plate PLUS hand wiring. No PCB exists which accommodates the bizarre layout changes in the AEKII ISO.
Best of luck! Look through Yoe's posts if you need some inspiration. That dude is a pro at the handwired ISO.
MoreThanks for the response! Do you know of any custom plates that would suit my needs, or would I have to make/adapt my own?Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Alps switches are generally plate mount only.
If you want a 60% AEKII ISO, your only option currently is to use a custom plate PLUS hand wiring. No PCB exists which accommodates the bizarre layout changes in the AEKII ISO.
Best of luck! Look through Yoe's posts if you need some inspiration. That dude is a pro at the handwired ISO.
That group buy doesn't support ISO though, does it?MoreThanks for the response! Do you know of any custom plates that would suit my needs, or would I have to make/adapt my own?Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Alps switches are generally plate mount only.
If you want a 60% AEKII ISO, your only option currently is to use a custom plate PLUS hand wiring. No PCB exists which accommodates the bizarre layout changes in the AEKII ISO.
Best of luck! Look through Yoe's posts if you need some inspiration. That dude is a pro at the handwired ISO.
You can make one yourself via Swill's + BigBlueSaw (kinda expensive and requires some knowledge) or you can wait for the 60% plate group buy (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81740.50) to launch (they have had delays, and are working things out still).
That group buy doesn't support ISO though, does it?MoreThanks for the response! Do you know of any custom plates that would suit my needs, or would I have to make/adapt my own?Dell ISO?I'll have to look into it, I would much rather a custom made plate though. However, I could always PCB mount. Thanks for the suggestion of the TKL, but I'm only really interested in a 60% atm.
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Alps switches are generally plate mount only.
If you want a 60% AEKII ISO, your only option currently is to use a custom plate PLUS hand wiring. No PCB exists which accommodates the bizarre layout changes in the AEKII ISO.
Best of luck! Look through Yoe's posts if you need some inspiration. That dude is a pro at the handwired ISO.
You can make one yourself via Swill's + BigBlueSaw (kinda expensive and requires some knowledge) or you can wait for the 60% plate group buy (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81740.50) to launch (they have had delays, and are working things out still).
Dell ISO?
FWIW, BlueNalgene's TKL will support AEK ISO.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81608.msg2176902#msg2176902
Are you interested in using the design I made for future board revisions? I have no intention to produce a 60% and usurp your throne. I'd be happy to share with you the KiCAD files and the Monterey compatible pads.
This would probably be after my GB, so I can get feedback from users.
Some information I would like to share. The alps64 pcb does not work on the Lambo case. It will short circuit the bottom of the pcb if pressed hard.
It starts out in layer 1 instead of 0! If I have FN keys available in layer1, they work fine, so I can access layer 2 and so on, and probably even layer 0, though I haven't tried making a new keymap just to test that.
Tried clearing bootmagic settings with backspace and space, but that didn't work. The problem description is really similar, though.
Yeah, that's what I tried. Plain.c.
eeconfig:
default_layer: 0
debug_config.raw: 00
.enable: 0
.matrix: 0
.keyboard: 0
.mouse: 0
keymap_config.raw: 00
.swap_control_capslock: 0
.capslock_to_control: 0
.swap_lalt_lgui: 0
.swap_ralt_rgui: 0
.no_gui: 0
.swap_grave_esc: 0
.swap_backslash_backspace: 0
.nkro: 0
Yeah, that's what I tried. Plain.c.
what's Plain.c? You are using firware buit with your own keymap file Plain.c?
You better download firmware from keymap editor and follow my instruction above. Download firmware from here without any edit.
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/alps64/index.html
And post what you get in 'hid_listen' when pressing LShift+RShift+e? You will get output like this.Code: [Select]eeconfig:
default_layer: 0
debug_config.raw: 00
.enable: 0
.matrix: 0
.keyboard: 0
.mouse: 0
keymap_config.raw: 00
.swap_control_capslock: 0
.capslock_to_control: 0
.swap_lalt_lgui: 0
.swap_ralt_rgui: 0
.no_gui: 0
.swap_grave_esc: 0
.swap_backslash_backspace: 0
.nkro: 0
Great product, bought one about a month ago and "completed" it last week using a SGI 101 dremel cut(don't do this is you can avoid it) plate and keys. It's currently my favorite board.
http://i.imgur.com/42TTCYJ.jpg
edit: since I'm posting here anyway, maybe someone competent with TMK can tell me an easy way to change right shift, right alt, right windows and right control to arrow keys and capslock to function.
Great product, bought one about a month ago and "completed" it last week using a SGI 101 dremel cut(don't do this is you can avoid it) plate and keys. It's currently my favorite board.
http://i.imgur.com/42TTCYJ.jpg
Thanks for posting the pic!
Yeah, DIY cutting pate is very time consumig and makes an old keyboard victim. You were really lucky with dremel I did that ridiculously with hand saw :D
Just FYI for all:
Now you can get DXF data of 60% Alps plate fortunately due to effort of emdude, Wingpad and the community.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0
I think you can order a steel plate from cheap laser cut service like http://lasergist.com/ for less than $50.
Great product, bought one about a month ago and "completed" it last week using a SGI 101 dremel cut(don't do this is you can avoid it) plate and keys. It's currently my favorite board.
http://i.imgur.com/42TTCYJ.jpg
Thanks for posting the pic!
Yeah, DIY cutting pate is very time consumig and makes an old keyboard victim. You were really lucky with dremel I did that ridiculously with hand saw :D
Just FYI for all:
Now you can get DXF data of 60% Alps plate fortunately due to effort of emdude, Wingpad and the community.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0
I think you can order a steel plate from cheap laser cut service like http://lasergist.com/ for less than $50.
I was planning on cutting up my AEK plate with a jigsaw, hoping it would easier than using a dremel. Although, with a DXF I may look into a Chinese laser-cutter before hacking up a perfectly good keyboard.
Anyway, how thick is the FR-4 plate because Lasergist cuts in 1mm and 1.5mm thicknesses, but I hear the switches won't click into place at 1.5mm?
PCB itself is great, Keep up the good work Hasu!
Great. Bootmagic is not the cause of your problem. Your keymap or hardware seems to me be the culprit.
I hope you can solve it.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
sprit, thanks for sharing your experience on plates.
My 1.2mm FR-4 plate worked well without problem in assembly process and on typing so far. Glad :D
Comparing to steel plate with orange switches I can't feel significant difference except for switch property, but it may be because I have no good sensitivity on finger tips.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hzpisqp.jpg)
My space bar needs retrobrite too!
Yeah, DIY cutting pate is very time consumig and makes an old keyboard victim. You were really lucky with dremel I did that ridiculously with hand saw :D
sprit, thanks for sharing your experience on plates.
My 1.2mm FR-4 plate worked well without problem in assembly process and on typing so far. Glad :D > I'd love to type on it FR-4 Plate !
Comparing to steel plate with orange switches I can't feel significant difference except for switch property, but it may be because I have no good sensitivity on finger tips.
> Dear Hasu, Would You try another thin Caps? The Apple Dyesub caps are too Perfect, covering all the small defects, IMO.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Hzpisqp.jpg)
My space bar needs retrobrite too! > Still Beautiful I See !
Show Image(http://puu.sh/qreGn/6b1c28ac6e.jpg)
So I have been using my alps64 religiously since I received it from Bluenalgene's GB, but it will not wake my pc from sleep. My mouse and numpad will, but my alps64 will not and it is frustrating :(
Does anybody know what might be causing this? I have it allowed to wake the pc in windows 10 settings.
As an added note, how do I enable N-Key rollover?
I think I found solution. Try this and report your result.
See github issue for the detail. https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/issues/361
In short,
Add this line in Makefile and build firmware.
OPT_DEFS += -DNO_LIMITED_CONTROLLER_CONNECT
Thanks, I will try this when I next add something to my keyboard. :thumb:
This is precompiled firmware with wakeup fix. Try it.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks
I flashed this to my keyboard and tested it, it did not wake it from sleep.
I think it might just be the fact that I am running Windows 10 on x58.
I can cope with it though, I can just use my mouse or my numpad.
Thanks though and sorry for being a bother.
Thanks for your test.
hm, it can have problem with USB3 or some system.
I confirmed it can wake up Windows10 on my Thinkpad X201s but I don't have system with USB3 or x58 to test now. I'll leave this issue open on github and test it on newer system if I get a chance.
I can test it on usb2 when I get a chance, I hadn't thought of the add-on usb3 being an issue.
Hi Hasu, may you'll find this helpful. Hydrogen peroxide is a bit fiddly, but there are certain hair products with basically the same active ingredients as retrobrite that you can try and find. I used this one here: http://www.superdrug.com/B-Blonde/Jerome-Russell-B-Blonde-Cream-Peroxide-40-Vol-12%25-Lightner/p/42293Nice! I will try that! :)
But obviously I don't know if this brand is specific to the UK or not, I imagine there must be similar products in Japan.
It comes in a convenient gel form, saves the effort of trying to mix it yourself, give it a go!
Hello Dear Hasu!
Would you please be a Tester for the Alps Springs GB?
We will be happy to have You!
Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
1.5mm is the standard plate thickness. Switches clip into 1.5mm.
Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
Thanks for the info. I have not ordered the plate, i will change it 1.0mm probably be cheaper.Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
Thanks for the info. I have not ordered the plate, i will change it 1.0mm probably be cheaper.Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
I recommend emailing lasergist for a 1.2mm plate, I think someone posted in the 60% plate thread recently saying they've had success getting 1.2mm plates from lasergist by emailing them and asking for it specifically.
Just got a quote from Lasergist for AEK plate
Width: 285mm
Height: 95mm
Path length: 4422mm
AISI 316 Brushed 1.5mm think stainless steel plate US$ 49.27
I do not recommend that thickness, the switches will not be able to properly clip into the plate.
1.0mm is a better choice.
1.5mm is the standard plate thickness. Switches clip into 1.5mm.
For Cherry switches. Alps specs specify 1.0-1.2mm for their switches.
Is there anywhere I can buy an Infinity plate? Been looking everywhere :(
Just got the Alps64 pcb, I hooked it up to the mac, but when I connect contacts with paperclip, the contacts do not register. Do I need to solder the diodes before they will work? Or do I need a different OS?
Just got the Alps64 pcb, I hooked it up to the mac, but when I connect contacts with paperclip, the contacts do not register. Do I need to solder the diodes before they will work? Or do I need a different OS?
I believe you have to solder in the diodes first. That's what I did at least.
Just got the Alps64 pcb, I hooked it up to the mac, but when I connect contacts with paperclip, the contacts do not register. Do I need to solder the diodes before they will work? Or do I need a different OS?
Just got the Alps64 pcb, I hooked it up to the mac, but when I connect contacts with paperclip, the contacts do not register. Do I need to solder the diodes before they will work? Or do I need a different OS?
I believe you have to solder in the diodes first. That's what I did at least.
Thanks!
Since i couldn't find anybody ever REALLY confirming that the PCB fits a Pok3r case: yes, yes it does. Most satisfying fit i've ver seen. The USB connector is perfectly centered and the diodes basically "hug" the fins of the case (the older Pok3r case has supporting fins in the case). In a good way ;)
Here is a little of my 60% AEK with more pictures.
It uses an acrylic plate and custom stabilisers.
I made the drawings public on github (https://github.com/dennistimmermann/aek64)
Since i couldn't find anybody ever REALLY confirming that the PCB fits a Pok3r case: yes, yes it does. Most satisfying fit i've ver seen. The USB connector is perfectly centered and the diodes basically "hug" the fins of the case (the older Pok3r case has supporting fins in the case). In a good way ;)
Lately I've been getting lots of double keypresses, and I'm not sure what's causing it. I just had the soldering touched up a couple of weeks ago and hadn't had issue with it until this week. Any ideas what might be going on?
Lately I've been getting lots of double keypresses, and I'm not sure what's causing it. I just had the soldering touched up a couple of weeks ago and hadn't had issue with it until this week. Any ideas what might be going on?
Greeeeeeeen!
Greeeeeeeen!
That's quite nice Hasu :thumb:
Will you consider doing different colours in future runs or will this be the new permanent colour?
Does anyone have problem on USB suspend(sleep)/resume(wakeup) and BIOS/EFI with Alps64?Yes
I am debuging and updating USB code in repository and wan to get infos on this from users, like detailed problem description, OS, computer hardware and etc.
Can you sleep computer with keeping keyboard connected?
Can you wakeup computer with keyboard? Pressing any key on keyboard should wake your computer.
Can you use keyboard normally after wakeup(resume)?
Can you use keyboard normally after reboot?
Can you use keyboard normally on BIOS/UEFI?
Can you use keyboard normally on BIOS/UEFI after reboot?
Thanks.
Nice.
Thanks, Deductivemonkee.
Is round 7 still going? If not I'm in for rount 8 ;D
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Im interested in one for sure. If any batch 2 are still available.
@Hasu: Batch 2 is for the PCB only? Do you also supply plates? If you do not supply plates, do you have suggestions for suppliers or suggestions of where to download templates to have plates made? Thank you!
@Hasu: Batch 2 is for the PCB only? Do you also supply plates? If you do not supply plates, do you have suggestions for suppliers or suggestions of where to download templates to have plates made? Thank you!
PCB and Diodes only. Use the Open Source Alps 60% plate. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0)
Seems you can have the plate made for about $55-60, or use the AEKII plate and just cut it down to size.
Do you have pictures of green PCBs made in the latest run? Any changes?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My pcb got here and it came by DHL. Now those pieces of #@#$ want almost another 50$ in taxes and customs charges. Pissed does not describe how I'm feeling at the moment.
I'm having trouble understanding how the hell my package ended up in DHL's hands when Hasu sent it by Japan Mail.
Sorry for venting here but I didn't know where else to go.
Do I *need* a plate, or is it recommended?
I ask out of ignorance.
Thanks!
Do I *need* a plate, or is it recommended?
I ask out of ignorance.
Thanks!
You need a plate
I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here (https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/alps64-build-with-alps-skcm-brown-t14810.html)
Paid my invoice for two. Thanks, Hasu! Can't wait to put all these SKCM Browns to use. :thumb:
I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here (https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/alps64-build-with-alps-skcm-brown-t14810.html)
Is there a good reason to go with 1.2mm rather than 1.0mm? I built my first AEK64 with a 1.0mm plate, and it seems to have turned out fine (it has become my default keyboard at work). Building another one once Batch 2, ships, and need to order a plate.
I had mine cut by Lasergist.com using the AEK file from that thread (and asking for 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm as the thread suggests). I paid $49.50 shipped for it, and you can see the result here (https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/alps64-build-with-alps-skcm-brown-t14810.html)
Is there a good reason to go with 1.2mm rather than 1.0mm? I built my first AEK64 with a 1.0mm plate, and it seems to have turned out fine (it has become my default keyboard at work). Building another one once Batch 2, ships, and need to order a plate.
I think there are no actual difference but hey... apparently some people prefer thick and heavy around here :D
One datasheet says "THE MOUNTING PANEL TO BE 1.0mm TO 1.2mm IN THICKNESS" and another just specifies "t1.2", btw.
https://deskthority.net/w/images/6/68/Forward_Electronics_--_spec_--_SKBMFA.pdf
https://deskthority.net/w/images/3/32/Alps_Electric_--_spec_--_5454_31.pdf
Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy
I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.
Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy
I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.
Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.
Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy
I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.
Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.
You will find under 'Libusb-Win32 Devices' if driver is installed and working somehow.
Did you try Zadig? I hope it works for you.
Reinstalling driver doesn't help?
http://imgur.com/a/bnwzy
I for one never used zadig yet but I think it works.
Couldn't find atm32u2 under 'other device' in Device Manager.
You will find under 'Libusb-Win32 Devices' if driver is installed and working somehow.
Did you try Zadig? I hope it works for you.
Tried Zadig, now the original firmware has gone. atmel device appear on device manager but still cannot write to usb in Flip.
I modify what I said a little earlier. As a board I think it does feel better but only by a little bit.Great insight XMIT, thanks for sharing, I have been planning to do something similar for a while (I WAS thinking damped sliders in orange housings). I think I'll go all in and translplant the orange switch plates as well into the cream housings. I'm also considering taking the rubber dampers from a Matias Quiet Click keyboard I have, do you think it is worth it? I'm a bit worried that the dampers from the creams will dry up.
Here is my latest hybrid, the "MatiaBlue" switch:
(Attachment Link)
This is a KBP V60MTS-C (V60 with Matias Click switches) with sliders, return springs, and click leaves transplanted from SKCM blue Alps switches.
These sound and feel more like blue Alps than Matias. The hybrid switches are lighter and quieter than Matias Click switches.
For the spacebar, I used a slider from a Matias Quiet switch. This dramatically quietens the spacebar.
Anyone have an extra or one they want to part with, hit me up!
Anyone have an extra or one they want to part with, hit me up!
I thought Hasu still has some from the latest run?
Anyone have an extra or one they want to part with, hit me up!
I thought Hasu still has some from the latest run?
It says as of the 17th he is sold out, unless I read it wrong.
Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Apple italic keycaps are my favorites, yours look a bit filthy though.
Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Apple italic keycaps are my favorites, yours look a bit filthy though.
Should have my build finished this weekend, I have some dirty caps but I want to leave them that way for the style xDShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/2bd22399a24ba3c0326560f7c0bd473d.jpg)
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Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Apple italic keycaps are my favorites, yours look a bit filthy though.
Should have my build finished this weekend, I have some dirty caps but I want to leave them that way for the style xDShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/2bd22399a24ba3c0326560f7c0bd473d.jpg)
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Oh dear...you do know AEK iso is not supported right?
Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Apple italic keycaps are my favorites, yours look a bit filthy though.
Should have my build finished this weekend, I have some dirty caps but I want to leave them that way for the style xDShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/2bd22399a24ba3c0326560f7c0bd473d.jpg)
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Oh dear...you do know AEK iso is not supported right?
Do you mean that the pcb doesn't support AEK ISO or ISO in general?
Op has ISO support but I'm assuming you know that and that it's to do with the AEK ISO layout. I can confirm that you're right, original AEK II ISO isn't a perfect fit. I'm using the backplate/modifiers of an m0116 for the main keys and the keys/backplate of an AEK II for the bottom row, right shift, enter and back space. Seems to work to create the layout Hasu specced:Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/c86332e021d6cb2792d010fdacf5dea0.png)
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Finally got around to finishing mine today!Nice dude
Couldn't be happier with the results!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSUkCcB.jpg)
Apple italic keycaps are my favorites, yours look a bit filthy though.
Should have my build finished this weekend, I have some dirty caps but I want to leave them that way for the style xDShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/2bd22399a24ba3c0326560f7c0bd473d.jpg)
Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
Oh dear...you do know AEK iso is not supported right?
Do you mean that the pcb doesn't support AEK ISO or ISO in general?
Op has ISO support but I'm assuming you know that and that it's to do with the AEK ISO layout. I can confirm that you're right, original AEK II ISO isn't a perfect fit. I'm using the backplate/modifiers of an m0118 for the main keys and the keys/backplate of an AEK II for the bottom row, right shift, enter and back space. Seems to work to create the layout Hasu specced:Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/c86332e021d6cb2792d010fdacf5dea0.png)
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I see, it's impressive that you managed to find a 1.25u Left Shift, that arrangement 'should' work but you will end up with a bit of a weird gap around the enter key due to its small size. Assuming you were able to source every other keys in standard ANSI layout (pretty much all of the modifiers), you're probably got all your bases covered.
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Looks to be this case from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clear-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32559075729.html). I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Looks to be this case from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clear-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32559075729.html). I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.
Copied XMIT with the case choice and position of the rainbow badge :eek:. Bottom row, RShift, Enter and Backspace are all AEKII backplate. The other keys are positioned with the backplate from an M0116. Modifiers are ALPS White switches, the rest are ALPS Salmon, Enter is a Matias Quiet Click (because why not).
can someone link me to a guide on flashing tmk? I have no idea what to do, I can customise the layout fine but I don't know how to flash my own layout to accommodate for the locking caps switch :eek:.
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Looks to be this case from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clear-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32559075729.html). I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.
Copied XMIT with the case choice and position of the rainbow badge :eek:. Bottom row, RShift, Enter and Backspace are all AEKII backplate. The other keys are positioned with the backplate from an M0116. Modifiers are ALPS White switches, the rest are ALPS Salmon, Enter is a Matias Quiet Click (because why not).
can someone link me to a guide on flashing tmk? I have no idea what to do, I can customise the layout fine but I don't know how to flash my own layout to accommodate for the locking caps switch :eek:.
I saw this in the TMK documentation, maybe you should try this? I don't currently have a locking switch in my Alps64 so I can't really test:
Mechanical Locking support
This feature makes it possible for you to use mechanical locking switch for CapsLock, NumLock or ScrollLock. To enable this feature define these macros in config.h and use KC_LCAP, KC_LNUM or KC_LSCR in keymap for locking key instead of normal KC_CAPS, KC_NLCK or KC_SLCK. Resync option tries to keep switch state consistent with keyboard LED state.
#define LOCKING_SUPPORT_ENABLE
#define LOCKING_RESYNC_ENABLE
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Looks to be this case from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clear-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32559075729.html). I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.
Copied XMIT with the case choice and position of the rainbow badge :eek:. Bottom row, RShift, Enter and Backspace are all AEKII backplate. The other keys are positioned with the backplate from an M0116. Modifiers are ALPS White switches, the rest are ALPS Salmon, Enter is a Matias Quiet Click (because why not).
can someone link me to a guide on flashing tmk? I have no idea what to do, I can customise the layout fine but I don't know how to flash my own layout to accommodate for the locking caps switch :eek:.
I saw this in the TMK documentation, maybe you should try this? I don't currently have a locking switch in my Alps64 so I can't really test:
Mechanical Locking support
This feature makes it possible for you to use mechanical locking switch for CapsLock, NumLock or ScrollLock. To enable this feature define these macros in config.h and use KC_LCAP, KC_LNUM or KC_LSCR in keymap for locking key instead of normal KC_CAPS, KC_NLCK or KC_SLCK. Resync option tries to keep switch state consistent with keyboard LED state.
#define LOCKING_SUPPORT_ENABLE
#define LOCKING_RESYNC_ENABLE
Thanks for digging that up. I need something much more primitive, so I'm going to go away and read as this is TMK firmware documentation it must be heavily documented instead of acting as if I'm the first one to try to flash some TMK firmware like it's never been done before :))
I'm referring to the parts where you get the PCB into flashing mode so that you can push the modded firmware to it - just as I was able to do this weekend with the Atreus for the first time but that was well outlined even for people like me who are not so used to doing this stuff.
Also I just realized one of the switches doesn't register unless I press it from the front of the keycap. Looks like I will have to swap that one out for another :mad:
Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)Thanks hasu! I finally completed my build, looks and works great! I chopped an AEK II for this one and used its caps and key switches.
(Attachment Link)
What case is that?
Looks to be this case from AliExpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Clear-Mini-Keyboard-GH60-plastic-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32559075729.html). I have one and it looks nice with the blue PCB of the older revisions.
Copied XMIT with the case choice and position of the rainbow badge :eek:. Bottom row, RShift, Enter and Backspace are all AEKII backplate. The other keys are positioned with the backplate from an M0116. Modifiers are ALPS White switches, the rest are ALPS Salmon, Enter is a Matias Quiet Click (because why not).
can someone link me to a guide on flashing tmk? I have no idea what to do, I can customise the layout fine but I don't know how to flash my own layout to accommodate for the locking caps switch :eek:.
I saw this in the TMK documentation, maybe you should try this? I don't currently have a locking switch in my Alps64 so I can't really test:
Mechanical Locking support
This feature makes it possible for you to use mechanical locking switch for CapsLock, NumLock or ScrollLock. To enable this feature define these macros in config.h and use KC_LCAP, KC_LNUM or KC_LSCR in keymap for locking key instead of normal KC_CAPS, KC_NLCK or KC_SLCK. Resync option tries to keep switch state consistent with keyboard LED state.
#define LOCKING_SUPPORT_ENABLE
#define LOCKING_RESYNC_ENABLE
Thanks for digging that up. I need something much more primitive, so I'm going to go away and read as this is TMK firmware documentation it must be heavily documented instead of acting as if I'm the first one to try to flash some TMK firmware like it's never been done before :))
I'm referring to the parts where you get the PCB into flashing mode so that you can push the modded firmware to it - just as I was able to do this weekend with the Atreus for the first time but that was well outlined even for people like me who are not so used to doing this stuff.
Also I just realized one of the switches doesn't register unless I press it from the front of the keycap. Looks like I will have to swap that one out for another :mad:
I don't know what OS you use, but I'm on Windows (Using Ubuntu Linux Subsystems for Windows), so I built the firmware using the make command in Bash and flashed the board using Atmel Flip. There should be a little button on the underside of the PCB which you can use to trigger the bootloader mode (I think, that's what I used)
I consider getting an AEK II to cut down into a 60%, sad to hear this thing just sold out :DThere's a dude in Germany who has one for sale right now https://www.ebay.de/itm/291961519521
Can you use any plate with these, for example the carbon fiber one from LeandreN? Also, the only parts required to build one are
1) Switches
2)PCB
3)Plate
4)Case
5)Keycaps
Is there something I am missing? I am kinda new at mech keys, so I am sorry for asking so many questions.
Can you use any plate with these, for example the carbon fiber one from LeandreN? Also, the only parts required to build one are
1) Switches
2)PCB
3)Plate
4)Case
5)Keycaps
Is there something I am missing? I am kinda new at mech keys, so I am sorry for asking so many questions.
Leandre plate will work with Alps switches, but you WILL NOT be able to use Alps stabs. Are you sure you are after and Alps board and not MX? As far as I'm aware, Leandre plates are most commonly used for MX builds.
Can you use any plate with these, for example the carbon fiber one from LeandreN? Also, the only parts required to build one are
1) Switches
2)PCB
3)Plate
4)Case
5)Keycaps
Is there something I am missing? I am kinda new at mech keys, so I am sorry for asking so many questions.
Leandre plate will work with Alps switches, but you WILL NOT be able to use Alps stabs. Are you sure you are after and Alps board and not MX? As far as I'm aware, Leandre plates are most commonly used for MX builds.
Yup, I am after Alps board. Are there any other plates which I can buy directly in market?
Yup, I am after Alps board. Are there any other plates which I can buy directly in market?
Anyone have an extra or one they want to part with, hit me up!
Confirmed bottom row and right shift part of Infinity layout.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/twwaQCYh.jpg)
I think I broke my PCB :( While attempting to desolder and replace the switch under ESC (top left corner), I lifted the trace of the right hole. Now ESC still works, but 2, 4, 6, 8, 0, [ do not work. Is there a way to save my PCB? Thanks a ton!
Update: I panicked when I thought I might have killed my beloved Alps64. After calming down, I realized a trace is effectively a wire, so I soldered a piece of wire between the hole with broken hole and another hole on the same trace. Now it works. So glad my Alps64 comes back to life. :)
Hey,Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8gxGykC.png)
(1.5 + 1.0 + 1.5) + space + (1.5 + 1 + 1 + 1.5) = 15.0
space = 15.0 - 4.0 - 5.0 = 6.0
EDIT: It seems to be called as "Hacker" layout, to be exact. Inifinity 60% supports two layouts and another is "Standard" which has 6.25 space bar.
https://input.club/devices/infinity-keyboard/
Right botom K20 is assigned to L1(layer change) in default keymap, it doesn't register anything by itself.
You can see how default keymap is defined here. hmm, this may be confusing for testing purpose, probably I should change default keymap so that every key register something?
http://www.tmk-kbd.com/tmk_keyboard/editor/unimap/?alps64
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/alps64/unimap_plain.c
yes, L1 + 1 spits out F1.
If you don't have desolderng braid nor pump, puffing breath or banging PCB on desk during heating with iron may help, I don't recommend though. I hope you can work out it.
I'll update assembly instruction or default firmware, thanks for the feedback!
I was able to largely eliminate the ping by cutting up some old mouse pads and putting them between the PCB and case. Mostly eliminated the ping.
I'm assuming this will work with KBP 60% plates yes?
Has anyone reached out to KBP to try and buy plates?
@Hasu: Why do you plan to remove support for KBP plates (and cases?)?
Hi Hasu,could you make this happen pretty please, hasu.
Perhaps I'm dream-talking, here is an idea to make the Alps64 greater even to different degree among all the PCBs that support Alps switches:
Many users have many switches they want to try out, but may not want to own too many keyboards.
E3E mentioned the hotswappable Holtites size that fits the Alps pin in his build log (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77497.msg2068785#msg2068785) acquisition section. By making the PCB pin hole sizes compatible with the correct receptacles, and providing also the Holtites receptacles for the switches in the kit, the Alps64 kit can become a hotswappable PCB kit for Alps switches.
"Hotswappable Alps64 kit" is just an extra idea on top of this constantly refined PCB for Alps.
Had this PCB for a while, but I just built it up today. Workes perfectly, just need to flash a HHKB layout onto it!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jj9VhU7.jpg)
Had this PCB for a while, but I just built it up today. Workes perfectly, just need to flash a HHKB layout onto it!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jj9VhU7.jpg)
That's awesome, what plate and case?
So excited to finally get my hands on one of these. I have too many ALPS switches and keysets going to waste.
Where did you get the blue caps?
...
Hi Hasu,
Perhaps I'm dream-talking, here is an idea to make the Alps64 greater even to different degree among all the PCBs that support Alps switches:
Many users have many switches they want to try out, but may not want to own too many keyboards.
E3E mentioned the hotswappable Holtites size that fits the Alps pin in his build log (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77497.msg2068785#msg2068785) acquisition section. By making the PCB pin hole sizes compatible with the correct receptacles, and providing also the Holtites receptacles for the switches in the kit, the Alps64 kit can become a hotswappable PCB kit for Alps switches.
"Hotswappable Alps64 kit" is just an extra idea on top of this constantly refined PCB for Alps.
I sent an email in for an invoice 2 days ago and I haven't gotten an invoice for paypal. Is this group buy still going on?
anyone know if hasu's PCB would work with sentraq's universal plate on an AEK 2 style layout?
https://sentraq.com/collections/parts-1/products/60-aluminum-plate-1
thanks~!
anyone know if hasu's PCB would work with sentraq's universal plate on an AEK 2 style layout?
https://sentraq.com/collections/parts-1/products/60-aluminum-plate-1
thanks~!
I guess the stabilizers might be a problem: Since hasu's PCB does not support PCB-mount Cherry stabilizers, you can only use plate mount stabilizers. This will be a problem, especially for the enter stabilizers, since the second stabilizer on the right of the enter switch won't be able to clip into the plate on the top because of the cutout for ISO compatibility.
This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.
But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.
Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!
This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.
But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.
Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!
Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switchesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYGpQoz.png)
edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0
This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.
But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.
Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!
Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switchesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYGpQoz.png)
edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0
Thanks for the reply. My old Salmon Alps board is indeed an M0116, so I'm all set there. Now just need to sort out a plate. Happy to go in on a little mini-buy with others here. Not sure if it helps pricing any with Lasergist, but I'm out of my element with designing plates, so I'd appreciate the chance to piggyback with anyone else who may be interested in an HHKB Alps. :thumb:
That Revo HHKB case looks gorgeous. I'm waiting on the Dr. D TKL board from Revo right now- would love to go in on the HHKB as well, we'll see about those buggery finances.
Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.
Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.
Honestly I don't think that will be worth anyone's while. Lasergist offers free worldwide shipping from Greece and their volume discount they me offered for 10+ plates was only about 10%. Once the GB runner reships everything it may be more expensive than everyone ordering individually. If anyone is interested in ordering from Lasergist, for the same price as 1.5mm they have a 1.2mm option which is closer to Alps spec than 1.0mm.
Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.
Honestly I don't think that will be worth anyone's while. Lasergist offers free worldwide shipping from Greece and their volume discount they me offered for 10+ plates was only about 10%. Once the GB runner reships everything it may be more expensive than everyone ordering individually. If anyone is interested in ordering from Lasergist, for the same price as 1.5mm they have a 1.2mm option which is closer to Alps spec than 1.0mm.
Oh yeah, I don't disagree if Lasergist is the option, and it's probably what makes the most sense anyway. From looking at old runs it seems like some members have access/connections with equipment that could produce the plates cheaper if there's some volume.
Probably makes most sense to just do Laser though, sounds like it'd be a lot of effort/time to maybe save $10-20.
I have a 60% board with the Alps64 PCB. A few of the Alps switches are exhibiting intermittent chatter, which has not been consistently helped by cleaning, canned air, or contact cleaner. Might it help to change the debounce setting? If so, exactly how is this done?
BTW, I used Atmel FLIP 3.4.7 in Windows 8.1 to install the hex file for my layout, and I used Hasu's online configurator to produce the hex file, so I did not need to use a make file to build anything. However, if changing the debounce setting involves using the command line, I have a Linux machine, and I would prefer doing it in Linux rather than dealing with CygWin, etc. in Windows.
Thanks.
I have a 60% board with the Alps64 PCB. A few of the Alps switches are exhibiting intermittent chatter, which has not been consistently helped by cleaning, canned air, or contact cleaner. Might it help to change the debounce setting? If so, exactly how is this done?You can configure denounce value in config.h and have to compile firmware with tool chain.
BTW, I used Atmel FLIP 3.4.7 in Windows 8.1 to install the hex file for my layout, and I used Hasu's online configurator to produce the hex file, so I did not need to use a make file to build anything. However, if changing the debounce setting involves using the command line, I have a Linux machine, and I would prefer doing it in Linux rather than dealing with CygWin, etc. in Windows.
Thanks.
This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.
But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.
Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!
Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switchesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TYGpQoz.png)
edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0
It does. It was an option during ALPS Party.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi All- silly question, but I may have goofed.
I got so excited about the HHKB plate and the PCBs shipping that I ordered the Lasergist plate last night... only to notice in the OP this morning that HHKB isn't indicated as a supported layout by the PCB. Can anyone confirm whether the TMK Alps 64 PCB will or will not support the HHKB layout? :-[
Thanks!
I was able to largely eliminate the ping by cutting up some old mouse pads and putting them between the PCB and case. Mostly eliminated the ping.
Oddly enough I was looking around for a nice nonconductice squishy material to do just that. It seems like it should help but I'm not sure why. I'll try old mousepads and see.
Iirc, earlier revision PCB were shipped with very plain keymap without FN key.
The latest revisions are shipped with keymap with FN on App aka menu key on right bottom.
Sent from my Nexus 5X
EDIT: ah, RGUI, not App key . It is next to right most on bottom row.
Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks
Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks
Yeah, the LED should blink at pluging in, something goes wrong. I'd know which it is PCB hardware fault or firmware problem.
I guess I removed firmware accidentally during testing process and shipped your PCB without firmware. This can be happen in good chance.
What if you press button on the PCB while pluging in? Pressing the button starts bootloader and the PCB goes into programming mode to flash firmware.
Open "Device Manager" and see if something will happen, it usually makes ding sound and redraws its device tree view to update info when new device is detected.
You will see bootloader device "ATmega32U2 DFU" when you don't have driver installed or "ATmega32U2" when you have proper driver. See pics in link below. And install driver to flash firmware if needed, see instruction in the link.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/Driver-install-on-Windows#device-name
Can you find the deivce on Device Manager?
Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks
Yeah, the LED should blink at pluging in, something goes wrong. I'd know which it is PCB hardware fault or firmware problem.
I guess I removed firmware accidentally during testing process and shipped your PCB without firmware. This can be happen in good chance.
What if you press button on the PCB while pluging in? Pressing the button starts bootloader and the PCB goes into programming mode to flash firmware.
Open "Device Manager" and see if something will happen, it usually makes ding sound and redraws its device tree view to update info when new device is detected.
You will see bootloader device "ATmega32U2 DFU" when you don't have driver installed or "ATmega32U2" when you have proper driver. See pics in link below. And install driver to flash firmware if needed, see instruction in the link.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/Driver-install-on-Windows#device-name
Can you find the deivce on Device Manager?
Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately nothing happens in device manager when I plug it in with or without the button pressed. No sound or anything appearing in the device tree.
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
You can get the length with QCAD or LibreCAD.
1) Select all of the paths with Menu: Select > Select All
2) Go to Menu: Info > Total length of ...
http://www.qcad.org/doc/qcad/3.15.4/reference/en/scripts/Pro/Information/InfoTotalLength/doc/InfoTotalLength_en.html
Measured alps64_aek_plate.dxf with LibreCAD:QuoteTotal Length of selected entities: 4422.0681
Just bought a M0115 on ebay, trying to decide whether I wanna go the 60% route, or just get an iMate and call it a day.
Is it really do-able to cut the plate to size? Seems like it would take a while, and I'd have to get a good saw just for the purpose. Also, wouldn't you need to a drill to make screw holes? I'd have to get one of those too.
If so, getting a plate cut by lasergist is probably the cheaper option (plus it leave the opportunity to put some Matias switches into the apple board should I so choose). But when I grab the files hasu listed for lasergist's form, it requires the height, width, and path length (all in mm). How would I go about getting those numbers? Someone online mentioned solidworks, but that software is pretty expensive.
Plus, lasergist wants a .pdf, .ai, or .dwg file so the .dxf I'm getting from hasu isn't gonna cut it. I don't have the CAD knowledge to really know the difference.
EDIT:
Didn't think to check the other thread, which answered my question about the path length. In case someone googles the issue, here is the solution:Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
You can get the length with QCAD or LibreCAD.
1) Select all of the paths with Menu: Select > Select All
2) Go to Menu: Info > Total length of ...
http://www.qcad.org/doc/qcad/3.15.4/reference/en/scripts/Pro/Information/InfoTotalLength/doc/InfoTotalLength_en.html
Measured alps64_aek_plate.dxf with LibreCAD:QuoteTotal Length of selected entities: 4422.0681
Still curious about thoughts on cutting the plate and the relevant tools
apprentice57,
I don't recommend to cut plate with hand saw unless you have plenty time to kill :D But it is certainly do-able if you are very patient and don't care appearance of choped plate. And yea you have to make holes and cutouts of sides to access screws. Chopped plate works well for me at least. See my mod log and imgur album in first post of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0
If M0115 still keeps good shape and you don't dislike its size iMate is reasonable option. TMK ADB converter is viable optiton too, of course!
apprentice57,
I don't recommend to cut plate with hand saw unless you have plenty time to kill :D But it is certainly do-able if you are very patient and don't care appearance of choped plate. And yea you have to make holes and cutouts of sides to access screws. Chopped plate works well for me at least. See my mod log and imgur album in first post of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0
If M0115 still keeps good shape and you don't dislike its size iMate is reasonable option. TMK ADB converter is viable optiton too, of course!
Yeah, good point. I think I'm trashing the hand saw idea. If I go that route I'd probably get a dremel. Could I just make do with a dremel and powered hand drill you think?
iMate is looking more ideal now, I didn't realize the prices had gone down to ~$30 on ebay. They used to be higher.
I actually discovered an Apple II GS keyboard (Salmon ALPS) in my Grandma's cellar. She said she missed typing on it, so I took it home and gave it a clean, retrobright treatment and then bought an iMate. It was like $70 back then though :/. It's her daily driver now I'm happy to report.
Just build mine up. Is there any way to add a caps lock or any type of indicator led? I ask because I see support for it in tmk just don't see anywhere on the PCB where you can add one.
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
Are you guys sure this is possible? Is datasheet or dimension of those keycaps available somewhere?
I don't know how Alps keycaps with cherry mount work much and I'm really curious.
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
Are you guys sure this is possible? Is datasheet or dimension of those keycaps available somewhere?
I don't know how Alps keycaps with cherry mount work much and I'm really curious.
PMing re: leftovers
Just build mine up. Is there any way to add a caps lock or any type of indicator led? I ask because I see support for it in tmk just don't see anywhere on the PCB where you can add one.
No LED support. You have to hack PCB if you want to use any LED.
LED on bottom side(PC5) is used for capslock indicator by default, you can replace it with your favorite LED. Or PC4, 6 and 7 pins are not used and you can use them for your idicators. BTW, what kind of switch and keycap are you going to use for indicator?
Using mechanical lock switch for capslock key is easy way if you don't have to use LED necessarily. you can use keycode 'Locking Caps Lock'(LCAP) for it.
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
Are you guys sure this is possible? Is datasheet or dimension of those keycaps available somewhere?
I don't know how Alps keycaps with cherry mount work much and I'm really curious.
I was not able to find a datasheet, but here is an example http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-2-space-pack-of-10/
From what I've heard these use standard Cherry-spec stabilizer spacing.
According to this thread, Alpine Winter is compatible with Cherry Stabs: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75515.msg1875926#msg1875926
My understanding is that Signature Plastics just switches the middle stem for Alps sets. Everything else is identical. I'm just about sure this is the case for Light Cycle Alps too as it's being made for MX stems also.
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
Are you guys sure this is possible? Is datasheet or dimension of those keycaps available somewhere?
I don't know how Alps keycaps with cherry mount work much and I'm really curious.
Just build mine up. Is there any way to add a caps lock or any type of indicator led? I ask because I see support for it in tmk just don't see anywhere on the PCB where you can add one.
No LED support. You have to hack PCB if you want to use any LED.
LED on bottom side(PC5) is used for capslock indicator by default, you can replace it with your favorite LED. Or PC4, 6 and 7 pins are not used and you can use them for your idicators. BTW, what kind of switch and keycap are you going to use for indicator?
Using mechanical lock switch for capslock key is easy way if you don't have to use LED necessarily. you can use keycode 'Locking Caps Lock'(LCAP) for it.
Oh, ok thanks for the info. I used a salmon alps switch I would love a locking alps switch but have never came across one.
Some pcbs from leftover are available now, see first post.
Thank you
According to this thread, Alpine Winter is compatible with Cherry Stabs: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75515.msg1875926#msg1875926
My understanding is that Signature Plastics just switches the middle stem for Alps sets. Everything else is identical. I'm just about sure this is the case for Light Cycle Alps too as it's being made for MX stems also.
Yes, it is still avaiable :D Check first post to place order.
Thanks
I can't wait for my Alps64 to arrive!
With newly made Alps keysets (Alpine Winter and the forthcoming Light Cycle GB), I wonder if it might be possible to add compatibility for Cherry PCB-mount stabilizers on an upcoming round?
I was thankfully able to source Alps stabilizers and an Alps-compatible stabilizer plate, but the stabilizer issue is one that may prevent me from diving into Alps projects after this one is done. Without the support of the giving and thoughtful Seattle keyboard community, I would have been sunk!
I'd love to see this too. It would be a lot easier to optionally use PCB mount Cherry stabs instead of trying to source correct Alps/Matias stabs.
The only issue I'd see is with the available plates out there. Most I've seen are set up for Alps/Matias plate mount stabs.
Are you guys sure this is possible? Is datasheet or dimension of those keycaps available somewhere?
I don't know how Alps keycaps with cherry mount work much and I'm really curious.
I was not able to find a datasheet, but here is an example http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-2-space-pack-of-10/
From what I've heard these use standard Cherry-spec stabilizer spacing.According to this thread, Alpine Winter is compatible with Cherry Stabs: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75515.msg1875926#msg1875926
My understanding is that Signature Plastics just switches the middle stem for Alps sets. Everything else is identical. I'm just about sure this is the case for Light Cycle Alps too as it's being made for MX stems also.
Thanks for the info. I'll look into pcbs with Cherry stab support.
Anyone know where I can buy Alps keycaps with MX stab mount?
any suggestion?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3cDJawN.png)
Thanks!
Shipping costs much :( I'll look into others further.
Thanks!
Shipping costs much :( I'll look into others further.
Hello Hasu, I have a lot of MX-stabilised Alps caps from Signature Plastic (they are various mistake or rejected caps from their Alpine Winter sets that were sold in their occasional grab bags). I am more than happy to send you a few of different sizes for testing if you like (I don't have any spacebars though)
Let me know if you would like some of these caps, you can have them for the price of shipping
Thanks!
Shipping costs much :( I'll look into others further.
Hello Hasu, I have a lot of MX-stabilised Alps caps from Signature Plastic (they are various mistake or rejected caps from their Alpine Winter sets that were sold in their occasional grab bags). I am more than happy to send you a few of different sizes for testing if you like (I don't have any spacebars though)
Let me know if you would like some of these caps, you can have them for the price of shipping
I found adding Cherry stab support breaks existent support for ISO Enter of Dell102 and decide to stop designing the pcb.
anyway, thank you for the offer!
Hasu, how do I enable AEK layout bottom row under the TMK Keymap Editor? I can't figure out how I arrange AEK bottom row, I've tried different positions on the bottom row, but I cant get it working
On my Alps64 board, not sure which revision, when I press "i","n", then "d" really fast, a "t" is registered after the "d". Has anyone else had this issue, and is is fixable? I use a QWERTY layout with TMK firmware built by Hasu's firmware editor and flashed with FLIP. The PCB is new, I just started using it yesterday, has a white solder mask.
On my Alps64 board, not sure which revision, when I press "i","n", then "d" really fast, a "t" is registered after the "d". Has anyone else had this issue, and is is fixable? I use a QWERTY layout with TMK firmware built by Hasu's firmware editor and flashed with FLIP. The PCB is new, I just started using it yesterday, has a white solder mask.
Those four keys, located in K75, K72, K52, K55, form rectagle on key matrix and meet conditions for ghost key. If you have diodes decently the ghost should not happen. http://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/
Some of diodes deosn't seem to work correctly, check direction and soldering of all your diodes, especially D7* and D*2.
Hey Hasu,
For the PCB design, have you considered moving row2 and row3 from` PD2,PD3 (pad 8,9) to PC6,PC7 (pad 23,22)?
I think that could potentially free up PD2 and PD3 to be broken out and used as serial RX and TX for a UART bluetooth adapter like the bluefruit. https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-the-adafruit-bluefruit-le-uart-friend/introduction
Hey Hasu,
For the PCB design, have you considered moving row2 and row3 from PD2,PD3 (pad 8,9) to PC6,PC7 (pad 23,22)?
I think that could potentially free up PD2 and PD3 to be broken out and used as serial RX and TX for a UART bluetooth adapter like the bluefruit. https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-the-adafruit-bluefruit-le-uart-friend/introduction
Hey Hasu,
For the PCB design, have you considered moving row2 and row3 from` PD2,PD3 (pad 8,9) to PC6,PC7 (pad 23,22)?
I think that could potentially free up PD2 and PD3 to be broken out and used as serial RX and TX for a UART bluetooth adapter like the bluefruit. https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-the-adafruit-bluefruit-le-uart-friend/introduction
No. I didn't have plan for mod like that from the begining. Also I won't change pins for this pcb for future because it harms firmware support for existent users.
I would design new pcb when I want bluetooth.
EDIT:
I'll use this module with open source firmware.
https://www.seeedstudio.com/MDBT40P%C2%A0-%C2%A0nRF51822%C2%A0based%C2%A0BLE%C2%A0module-p-2503.html
Bluefruit seems to be easy to use but its firmware is not open unfortunately.
https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_BluefruitLE_Firmware/issues/14
On my Alps64 board, not sure which revision, when I press "i","n", then "d" really fast, a "t" is registered after the "d". Has anyone else had this issue, and is is fixable? I use a QWERTY layout with TMK firmware built by Hasu's firmware editor and flashed with FLIP. The PCB is new, I just started using it yesterday, has a white solder mask.
Those four keys, located in K75, K72, K52, K55, form rectagle on key matrix and meet conditions for ghost key. If you have diodes decently the ghost should not happen. http://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/
Some of diodes deosn't seem to work correctly, check direction and soldering of all your diodes, especially D7* and D*2.
finally had some time to put the keyboard together. works and looks great with the dolch taihao caps from massdrop.I’d love to see this. I’d be game for an RGB underglow compatible Alps64. It’s possible to solder directly to the pin on the controller, but that’s always tricky.
just a suggestion, it looks like there are some pins that are not exposed , 22 ,23 ,26 ? not sure if these pins are actually usable as I just had a quick look at the kicad files but can these be exposed to pads for diyers that want to add lighting functionality; caps locks , layers, general lighting etc.?
[GB] UpdateHi Hasu, Is the "Alps64 Leftover" sold out already? So I have to wait for next round right?
OK, PCB will have breakouts for the three unused pins from current GB like pic below. PCB color is black in the GB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dXCT2Db.png)
Also FR-4(PCB substrate material) plate for AEKII(and AEK) layout is available. Its thickness is 1.2mm as spec and color is black too.
It costs 12USD when buying with Alps64 PCB or 16USD when getting only plate without Alps64.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u9Rf2D7.png)
Black Alps64PCB/AEK Plate looks like this actually, not matte black.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vDepcqb.jpg)
Thank you
Hi Hasu, Is the "Alps64 Leftover" sold out already? So I have to wait for next round right?
Hasu, will this GB round be finished and shipped before the UK Ltd Ed PCBs are done and collected (is that around September?)
Yes, some of pcbs were already ordered and will be ready before end of month unless I get any problem.
PCBs of UK GB is almost ready and wait, they will be handed over to UK GB organaizer in Tokyo at begining of September, so shippping will be mid or end of the month?
Hasu, do you also have plate for BigAss?
Hi Hasu, Is the "Alps64 Leftover" sold out already? So I have to wait for next round right?
Right, join next round.
If you are in a hurry and don't mind cosmetic issues you can get inferior one from my personal stock.
Hi Hasu, Is the "Alps64 Leftover" sold out already? So I have to wait for next round right?
Right, join next round.
If you are in a hurry and don't mind cosmetic issues you can get inferior one from my personal stock.
Hi, I'm considering that inferior one from your personal stock because I don't want to wait. ;D
Can you explain me about the cosmetic issue or maybe a photo about it? It is 100% works well right?
How much it is for the inferior one? Thanks
Hi Hasu, Is the "Alps64 Leftover" sold out already? So I have to wait for next round right?
Right, join next round.
If you are in a hurry and don't mind cosmetic issues you can get inferior one from my personal stock.
Hi, I'm considering that inferior one from your personal stock because I don't want to wait. ;D
Can you explain me about the cosmetic issue or maybe a photo about it? It is 100% works well right?
How much it is for the inferior one? Thanks
OK, it is still available a few, email me.
Hey Guys, pretty new to the DIY.
Can someone tell me if this would fit into the 60% Sentraq sandwich case?
https://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-acrylic-sandwich-case
thx
I’m working on my AEK 60 build and I’m a little stuck. I’ve got a board from a previous batch, a plate using the open source layout from a previous group buy, and Matias quiet clicks all mounted and soldered. My issue is stabilizers - I don’t want to steal from my AEK 2 since it’s in good shape, but I’m finding that the 2.75U stabilizer in the Matias kit is too narrow (won’t span the gap between the stabilizer clips in the plate). Anybody had any luck with stabs from elsewhere?
Also I’m planning to use SP’s Alps mount granite set; they use an Alps mount in the center, but cherry mounts for stabilizer hooks. I’m getting the feeling that typical Alps stabilizers may be too tall to allow full range of motion with the cherry stab hook/positioning. Any chance somebody here has beat me to a solution here?
so the safest choice is to hunt for a vintage AEK keyboard? I bought this just because I wanted to own a custom alps keyboard. found an ebay seller for the keycaps, thought I'll just buy the stabs from matias but just read about the problem with 2.75U stabs. suggestion?I’m working on my AEK 60 build and I’m a little stuck. I’ve got a board from a previous batch, a plate using the open source layout from a previous group buy, and Matias quiet clicks all mounted and soldered. My issue is stabilizers - I don’t want to steal from my AEK 2 since it’s in good shape, but I’m finding that the 2.75U stabilizer in the Matias kit is too narrow (won’t span the gap between the stabilizer clips in the plate). Anybody had any luck with stabs from elsewhere?
Also I’m planning to use SP’s Alps mount granite set; they use an Alps mount in the center, but cherry mounts for stabilizer hooks. I’m getting the feeling that typical Alps stabilizers may be too tall to allow full range of motion with the cherry stab hook/positioning. Any chance somebody here has beat me to a solution here?
If you got the Matias Stabilizer and Hook Kit it should also include costar style stabilizers that will work with the SP keycaps. Those are what I used with my Alps64 with Alpine Winter. I've found that it's best for the 2.75u keys to cannibalize from existing Alps boards. So all my Alps64s have used a mix of Matias + vintage stabs and hooks. The other option is to try bending the hook yourself with piano wire + a wire bending kit. I attempted this, but my results weren't great. I think njbair has experience with wire bending...
I can confirm that works well.what did? can I just purchase the stabs from matias shop?
Regarding Alps stabilizer clips with Cherry cruciform mounts on SP caps, it is totally doable with the purchase of the proper tools.
I bought a Du-Bro wire bender (http://a.co/fM2AiOm) and some music wire from a local hobby shop. I don't remember the wire gauge, but just bring an Alps stab wire with you and compare. Then you just bend a wire that's as wide as an Alps stab wire, and as tall as a Cherry stab wire, and you're in business.
I can confirm that works well.what did? can I just purchase the stabs from matias shop?
Donor AEK is the safe bet. I used the Matias clips in my plate, but the wires from my AEK. If I can do the above, I’ll post the results.please do, meanwhile I'll try and hunt for an old AEK keyboard then
Is there any place to get a plate with a more standard layout i.e. 1.25,1.25,1.25,6.25,1.25,1.25,1.25,1.25 bottom row? Tried Lasergist but he's been completely unresponsive to my inquiries about making a 1.2mm thick plate. I'd like to make a board to put DSA Light Cycle on.
Just now getting around to flashing the board; can't seem to get the AEK layout. I've tried all of the makefiles, and I've tried passing various arguments as "LAYOUT" and it's still CTRL GUI ALT on the bottom row. What am I missing?
Edit: I ended up working around it; I made a layout using the online editor and manually flashed with dfu-programmer rather than using the makefile. Would love to learn to do the make file, because I'm pretty sure that's the only way to get the ~ behavior that I want (my Clueboard has it; defaults to Esc, but with Shift it's ~, so ` requires the fn key).
Do you think this will be your last run? Or do you plan on doing more?
Beetwaaf,
Leftover sale will start soon after GB is fulfilled, in a few weeks probably.
stand.geek,
Keymap Editor doesn't support defining macros at thiis time at least.
If you build firmware from source code with macro definitions you can edit keymap including the macros in Keymap Editor theoretically. But you won't need Keymap Editor in fact when you can write and compile source code :D
Alps64 default firmware doesn't include any macro definitions you can't use macro(ACTION_MACRO) in keymap.
Beetwaaf,
Leftover sale will start soon after GB is fulfilled, in a few weeks probably.
stand.geek,
Keymap Editor doesn't support defining macros at thiis time at least.
If you build firmware from source code with macro definitions you can edit keymap including the macros in Keymap Editor theoretically. But you won't need Keymap Editor in fact when you can write and compile source code :D
Alps64 default firmware doesn't include any macro definitions you can't use macro(ACTION_MACRO) in keymap.
Ah too bad :(
So I think this is the right time to start learning about firmware ;D
Any simple tutorial / documentation as a starting point?
Beetwaaf,
Leftover sale will start soon after GB is fulfilled, in a few weeks probably.
stand.geek,
Keymap Editor doesn't support defining macros at thiis time at least.
If you build firmware from source code with macro definitions you can edit keymap including the macros in Keymap Editor theoretically. But you won't need Keymap Editor in fact when you can write and compile source code :D
Alps64 default firmware doesn't include any macro definitions you can't use macro(ACTION_MACRO) in keymap.
Ah too bad :(
So I think this is the right time to start learning about firmware ;D
Any simple tutorial / documentation as a starting point?
You can refer to this keymap doc and my keymap as an example. No further documentation for MACRO you may have to look into tmk_core source code.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keymap.md
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/hhkb/keymap_hasu.c#L219-L239
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/common/action_macro.h
I bought the FR-4 plate to try out with my blue alps build, but I've never typed on a board with a plate like this. What's it going to feel like? very flexible?
I bought the FR-4 plate to try out with my blue alps build, but I've never typed on a board with a plate like this. What's it going to feel like? very flexible?no noticeable flex difference here also. fr-4+blues in plastic case VS SS+salmon in alum pok3r case.
Thanks, Hasu.
Actually, it wasn't a driver issue, but incorrect instructions in the forum message (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.msg1993990#msg1993990):QuoteMake the layout you want and export the hex file with the button at the bottom. Open up the copy of FLiP you downloaded and plug in your keyboard. Press the chip button on the left, and select your chip. This PCB uses the ATmega32u2. Then click the next button to the right and connect via USB, opening the connection. While doing this, press the button on the back of your PCB. It may take a few tries to connect correctly. When you get it, load your hex file and Start Application.
The part Run operations is ommited here, but in your link it is there and I was able to flash the board.
The flash was successful and I'm typing this on my new board with SKCM whites and DSA LC.
@Hasuit seems to me it is poker compatible, I think so.
Do you think this new case from KBDFans will work with your current plate and PCB?
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case
@Hasuit seems to me it is poker compatible, I think so.
Do you think this new case from KBDFans will work with your current plate and PCB?
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case
@Hasu
Do you think this new case from KBDFans will work with your current plate and PCB?
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case
Received my plate from Lasergist today, fit perfectly. Soldered some SKCM Orange switches on and topped it with DSA Light Cycle. Works fantastic! This PCB has been an excellent base, I will probably buy another in the near future. Now just to wait on a cyan case from KBDfans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwbTnDe.jpg)
Received my plate from Lasergist today, fit perfectly. Soldered some SKCM Orange switches on and topped it with DSA Light Cycle. Works fantastic! This PCB has been an excellent base, I will probably buy another in the near future. Now just to wait on a cyan case from KBDfans.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/zwbTnDe.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/gy7fUlz.jpg)
Has anyone built a 'proper' HHKB layout with an Alps64 and if so, what keycaps are you using? I have a KBDFans Tina on the way which has the HHKB layout allowing the 6u space, but I'm unsure what keycaps (new or old) would be compatible with this..
These still available? Sent you an email!
Where to get an alps 60 pcb now :thinking:
Where to get an alps 60 pcb now :thinking:
Where to get an alps 60 pcb now :thinking:
Wait for him to run them again, or /r/mm. I don't believe there are other options.
Where to get an alps 60 pcb now :thinking:
Wait for him to run them again, or /r/mm. I don't believe there are other options.
Hey Hasu, if this is the wrong place to ask this, sorry. Any chance for the split space support before this year ends?
Hey Hasu, if this is the wrong place to ask this, sorry. Any chance for the split space support before this year ends?
No plan at this time.
But like to hear about preferable layout of bottom row and source of keycaps from you guys for future refrence.
Hey Hasu, if this is the wrong place to ask this, sorry. Any chance for the split space support before this year ends?
No plan at this time.
But like to hear about preferable layout of bottom row and source of keycaps from you guys for future refrence.
[PreOrder]
Leftover pcbs from last round have all gone and out of stock now.
Next batch of the pcb will be available within a month. Anyway I will order componetns enough to assembly some tens of pcb soon.
If you don't mind paying earlier and waiting for several weeks you can place order now. Check first post please.
Thank you
Hi I'm quite new to this so please don't crucify me if it is a dumb question. So my question is if this pcb supports the "infinity" layout with a split right shift and 4 keys right from the spacebar, because it is not listed with the supported layouts but looking at the pcb it looks to me like it would work and also there is a xdf file with a plate for that layout.
Any chance of getting classic ALPS logo on next round for US?
There are so many leftovers parts from building alps64 board. Any plans on alps20/alps24 aka numpad pcb? ;D
currently no plan but I'm still kind of interested in numpad pcb.
Is there any standard case design for diy numpad like Poker for 60%? I don't have skill and fund for new case production, unless numpad case is available it won't happen.
Hi everyone,
I recently did an Alps64 build, but I'm having some problems. I used the QMK port (just the default to test it) and qmk toolbox to flash it, and it works fine...but only on one computer. It works on the computer I flashed it on, but it doesn't even show up in my device manager or in qmk toolbox on the other. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Update: I tried it at work, and it seems that it'll work if I press my thumb down on the connector. I'm not sure why it works without a hitch on my laptop, but maybe there is a bad solder joint?
Hey Hasu, I just got the PCB and it seems there is a part that got ripped off during shipping. I did not solder it or anything else, it it safe to do so? PCB is from another member but it's completely unused and diodes are not soldered yet.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171123/d4935adf779773fba883ca9bc9c7df43.jpg)
Snip[/img]
Whew, that's good to know, thanks. I should be able to solder it if you could give me some directions on how to do it. And between the 4 contacts, which ones do I short circuit, a single left and right one or lower and higher?
Whew, that's good to know, thanks. I should be able to solder it if you could give me some directions on how to do it. And between the 4 contacts, which ones do I short circuit, a single left and right one or lower and higher?
You can make short circuit between either nearer pair to turn controller into flash mode, this is what the button does.
I would solder like below.
1. apply flux on pads and remove solder with wick.
2. clean and wipe pcb with IPA if available.
3. apply flux on pads again
4. apply little bit of flux on contacts of button switch with care.
5. clean iron tip and put solder on it
6. put the switch on proper position with tweezer
7. solder just one of contacts. retry if its placement is not good.
8. solder other three contacts. don't solder them until the switch is placed at right position.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/znQSkf4.jpg)
Hope this helps.
Just wanted to share my build here.
It's been a year till all components reached me.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/GMiRIlR.jpg)
tristinDLC, I'm going to open GB several months at least and followed by leftover sale.
FearsomeCubedWarrior, looks nice. what is that keycaps?
The stepped capslock seems to be 1.5u(highland part) and I never seen it for Alps switch as far as I researched.
Are there any extras? I need 4 PCBs
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
Hasu,
I'm sorry if you've been asked this a million times before but are there any plans for a 65% version of this PCB?
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
Hasu,
I'm sorry if you've been asked this a million times before but are there any plans for a 65% version of this PCB?
And which "standard" case would you use with the PCB and plate? That has always been the problem with anything outside of 60%. There is just no standard for case options like there is with the "standard" set by the Poker cases. Almost every 60% case uses those same mounting hole locations.
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
Hasu,
I'm sorry if you've been asked this a million times before but are there any plans for a 65% version of this PCB?
I have no plan on 65% keyboard at this time.
[13 th GB Open]
Just updated the first post for next round, check it and email me if you re interested.
Current estimated shipping date is end of Feb.
Thank you!
Are 103 plates going to be available?
Hey! I’m a bit confused with the wording with shipping. Will this round ship all at once at the end of February? Or individually as orders come in?
Tina, Alps64, custom copper plate, linear-modded un-damped Creams w/ 70cn springs.
Will be putting DCS Alpine Witner on this in 7u HHKB layout, just need to sort out the stabilizers really.
I had originally click-modded the damped Creams after refurbing them but IO just wasn't happy with the consistency, so removed the leafs to make them linear. Not the perfect switch, granted, but they' re smooth and have a nice clack on the bottom-out.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/sRgjS1c.jpg?1)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/oI1DucY.jpg?1)
Quick question everyone, is my best bet to just buy an Apple Extended II off of ebay and salvage the switches and keycaps?
Is there any place I can buy alps stabilizer parts? Will the Matias ones work?Yes, I used Matias stabilizer kit. The part on the plate fits perfect the part on the keycaps needs a little modification and it works!
I need the bottom portion, the one that goes in the plate. I could swear that I harvested them from the AEK but now I can't find them anywhere.
Is there any place I can buy alps stabilizer parts? Will the Matias ones work?Yes, I used Matias stabilizer kit. The part on the plate fits perfect the part on the keycaps needs a little modification and it works!
I need the bottom portion, the one that goes in the plate. I could swear that I harvested them from the AEK but now I can't find them anywhere.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi, based on these supported layouts, does this mean that I cannot build an Alp64 boards using an Apple M0116? Because I'm getting one delivered soon, and that would mean extra work (plus $) to get all the correct keycaps 🙂Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dviqQYb.jpg)Show Image(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9f/Apple_%28Standard%29_Keyboard_M0116.jpg)
Any idea when the next group buy will be? I got my hands on 3 Apple IIc's with Amber Alps. I'm itching to make a Alps64 build out of them :)
[GB update][Leftover sale now]
All preorders of Lefover sale(invoice number: 1747 or less) will be shipped tomorrow.
Leftover sale just starts now. Estimated lead time is two weeks to ship.
All components are in stock enough to meet demand for months and PCB are assembled and shipped on regular basis when I have time.Any idea when the next group buy will be? I got my hands on 3 Apple IIc's with Amber Alps. I'm itching to make a Alps64 build out of them :)
You can get it from Leftover!
Placed an order for 1 PCB in anticipation for the Modern M0110. Thanks Hasu! Also do you sell your HHKB Controller in batches as well or will I have to get it from somewhere like 1upkeyboards?
Hi All,
How do I add support to this for an alps locking switch on the caps lock?
Thanks,
Hi All,
How do I add support to this for an alps locking switch on the caps lock?
Thanks,
See this. Alps64 firmware is built with enabling those options by default. Just use 'KC_LCAP' instead of 'KC_CAPS'.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/#mechanical-locking-support
Is any 60% plate compatible with the Alps64 PCB?Interesting.
I am looking for a universal plate that can fit Alps SKCC switches. Someone on Reddit said they fit rather well in MX switch plates, which I found to be true.
The pins for the SKCC switches look the same as the SKCM switches so I don't think I have anything to worry about there but they don't fit the fr4 plate from this GB.
I'm looking for a 60% plate that can be used with the Alps64 PCB and supports mx switches in the HHKB layout.
If I'm not mistaken, Alps64 supports hhkb layout right? The infinity layout has split backspace and 7u spacebar. I would just need two 1.5u blockers.
I was looking at the sentraq plate. https://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-plate-1
Does anyone think this will work?
I am sorry if this has been asked a million times but would this pcb support this layout?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UxGDCaL.jpg)
I see it has support for split backspace and but what about smaller right shift and 1u, 1.5u, 7u, 1.5u, 1u bottom row?
I am sorry if this has been asked a million times but would this pcb support this layout?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UxGDCaL.jpg)
I see it has support for split backspace and but what about smaller right shift and 1u, 1.5u, 7u, 1.5u, 1u bottom row?
It can support the bottom row (look at the infinity layout) and hasu confirmed to me that it can do split right shift a couple posts above.
Hasu, any chance of USB C version of this board?
Just finished a build that I've been waiting to do for a few months.
Cyan 5 Degree Alps64 with ultrasonic cleaned Orange Alps, harvested from an AEK, and lubed with RO59 (probably incorrectly since it's my first time lubing) and with Japanese AEK (II?) keycaps. (maybe I'll change it to Alps DSA Lightcycle, not sure)
I'll post pictures once I'm able to take good ones but I did have a question regarding firmware.
When I am holding down Left Shift and I quickly press M and then O, the letter Q is also typed in. So I try to do MO but get MOQ. Coincidentally, I am trying to write MOQ but I never pressed Q.
When I am holding down Right Shift and I quickly press M and then O, the } symbol is also typed in. So I do MO but get MO}.
I have no idea what is causing this. It's not the biggest issue in the world and I don't notice it for any other combination of letters but it's a little weird.
Any ideas?
Just finished a build that I've been waiting to do for a few months.
Cyan 5 Degree Alps64 with ultrasonic cleaned Orange Alps, harvested from an AEK, and lubed with RO59 (probably incorrectly since it's my first time lubing) and with Japanese AEK (II?) keycaps. (maybe I'll change it to Alps DSA Lightcycle, not sure)
I'll post pictures once I'm able to take good ones but I did have a question regarding firmware.
When I am holding down Left Shift and I quickly press M and then O, the letter Q is also typed in. So I try to do MO but get MOQ. Coincidentally, I am trying to write MOQ but I never pressed Q.
When I am holding down Right Shift and I quickly press M and then O, the } symbol is also typed in. So I do MO but get MO}.
I have no idea what is causing this. It's not the biggest issue in the world and I don't notice it for any other combination of letters but it's a little weird.
Any ideas?
Try putting tape on the screw posts of the case before you screw in the pcb? May be shorting to the case somewhere. I had a different board do that in my 5degree case. Insulate the sections that touched the bottom of the pcb and all is good. Just a thought.
@tanvir175, those fixes are not right way or unreasonable at least. This may cause your 'ghost key' problem somewhat. You have to remove the wires first anyway.
Then check whether diodes on the keys(K56 and K01) is ok if your DMM has diode check mode. It will show around 0.6V for forward voltage drop. And make sure diode directions of course.
Next, check continuity with DMM at points show in pic below. And wire them if they has no continuity.
(Attachment Link)
I received the PCB ok. Put this thing together and thought, all it needs is grease. I got too much somewhere because now the backslash key doesnt work. I took the switches off again and cleaned the PCB. Now the Hardware Id comes up with "keyboard VID_FEED&PID_6060" instead of 6464. If I plug it into my mac it doesnt detect at all.
I was hoping I got rid of the short in time, seeing if the forum has some advice.
Thanks!
What case can I use ? Any 60% case would work with that PCB ?
Will there be more runs of this pcb and plate? I just salvaged some alps whites and trying to find them a home! ;D
For those who have a Alps64 and have been having trouble programming it. I got the Alps64 into QMK Configurator, a new GUI tool, so it should be easier. You don't have to write a single line of code!
https://config.qmk.fm/#/alps64/LAYOUT_infinity
For those who have a Alps64 and have been having trouble programming it. I got the Alps64 into QMK Configurator, a new GUI tool, so it should be easier. You don't have to write a single line of code!
https://config.qmk.fm/#/alps64/LAYOUT_infinity
This is amazing news. Thanks for helping us non code normies out.
Are there any PCB leftovers? If not when will the next GB be at?
I just finally built this keyboard but am having trouble mounting the spacebar (see linked image). The attachments on the spacebar seem too short so the stabilizer wire keeps falling off.
https://imgur.com/a/qjAQfUp
I just finally built this keyboard but am having trouble mounting the spacebar (see linked image). The attachments on the spacebar seem too short so the stabilizer wire keeps falling off.
https://imgur.com/a/qjAQfUp
I had some trouble with that, as well.
The wire is flipped 180 compared to the AEK so, if you haven't already, take out the left and right brown inserts and flip them.
This may not be something you want to do but I spent near an hour trying to make it work and couldn't. Take out the insert for the extra support. The gray circle one. I literally couldn't get it to keep the wire in the clips and have it high enough to insert into the circle.
After those two, it should be pretty simple.
I just finally built this keyboard but am having trouble mounting the spacebar (see linked image). The attachments on the spacebar seem too short so the stabilizer wire keeps falling off.
https://imgur.com/a/qjAQfUp
I had some trouble with that, as well.
The wire is flipped 180 compared to the AEK so, if you haven't already, take out the left and right brown inserts and flip them.
This may not be something you want to do but I spent near an hour trying to make it work and couldn't. Take out the insert for the extra support. The gray circle one. I literally couldn't get it to keep the wire in the clips and have it high enough to insert into the circle.
After those two, it should be pretty simple.
Thanks for the reply. I did reverse the brown inserts as otherwise it's impossible to mount the spacebar. However the inserts then become too short to hold the wire so the wire just falls out. I tried extending the inserts with some tape and some other means but the spacebar becomes very rigid. I don't have a problem with the gray circle, but after reading your post I removed it as well as the round insert it goes into and tried mouting the spacebar reversed: https://imgur.com/rWp2I2X
This seems to work as the brown inserts are oriented correctly and I only lose some stability from the missing grey cylinder piece. The spacebar feels nice and light.
whats the difference between the normal pcb and this one https://caps-unlocked.com/alps64-special-edition-pcb/
...
I didn't know there are variation of stab wire like that, what model number of keyboard did you get the space bar and stabilizer from? AEK US layout?
And if you still have the keyboard could you post pic of its stab cutouts around space bar? It would be helpful to know the cutouts dimension.
This is my space bars from AEKs(M3501 and M0115J). Stab wires and inserts are apparently different.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bjEVbAS.jpg)
The other day I found AEK64 case has extra cutouts on upper side and wasn't sure its reason. But the extra cutouts work with your spacebars probably?
https://i.imgur.com/xs91dSt.jpg
Ok thank youwhats the difference between the normal pcb and this one https://caps-unlocked.com/alps64-special-edition-pcb/
The pcbs are just a bit old revision with different logo.
...
I didn't know there are variation of stab wire like that, what model number of keyboard did you get the space bar and stabilizer from? AEK US layout?
And if you still have the keyboard could you post pic of its stab cutouts around space bar? It would be helpful to know the cutouts dimension.
This is my space bars from AEKs(M3501 and M0115J). Stab wires and inserts are apparently different.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bjEVbAS.jpg)
The other day I found AEK64 case has extra cutouts on upper side and wasn't sure its reason. But the extra cutouts work with your spacebars probably?
https://i.imgur.com/xs91dSt.jpg
Here's the imgur album of the keyboard from the user I bought the caps: https://imgur.com/a/gYJqo
You can see the stabilizer wire is reversed on it. It's an AEK 1 M0115 (Dutch version). The AEK case indeed seems to have the cutouts for reverse mounting. It's good to know but since I already assembled my keyboard with your plate I'm fine with using the spacebar reversed.
...
I didn't know there are variation of stab wire like that, what model number of keyboard did you get the space bar and stabilizer from? AEK US layout?
And if you still have the keyboard could you post pic of its stab cutouts around space bar? It would be helpful to know the cutouts dimension.
This is my space bars from AEKs(M3501 and M0115J). Stab wires and inserts are apparently different.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bjEVbAS.jpg)
The other day I found AEK64 case has extra cutouts on upper side and wasn't sure its reason. But the extra cutouts work with your spacebars probably?
https://i.imgur.com/xs91dSt.jpg
Here's the imgur album of the keyboard from the user I bought the caps: https://imgur.com/a/gYJqo
You can see the stabilizer wire is reversed on it. It's an AEK 1 M0115 (Dutch version). The AEK case indeed seems to have the cutouts for reverse mounting. It's good to know but since I already assembled my keyboard with your plate I'm fine with using the spacebar reversed.
Thanks for the photos. Ah, I see. the spacebar stabilizer on Dutch model is different from US AEKs and I haven't seen this.
And I didn't know Dutch keyboard layout has US type enter key instead of ISO big one, TIL.
Without knowing Dutch AEK I added the extra cutouts on new revision of plate to support 'flipped spacebar' for fun after seeing the AEK64 design. In a result I think it happens to support Dutch spacebar hopefully. This doesn't help your situation because you already assembled, bu t if you are willing to check the new plate design with the Dutch spacebar let me know, I will send you one.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YRzVBT5h.jpg)
...
Thanks for the photos. Ah, I see. the spacebar stabilizer on Dutch model is different from US AEKs and I haven't seen this.
And I didn't know Dutch keyboard layout has US type enter key instead of ISO big one, TIL.
Without knowing Dutch AEK I added the extra cutouts on new revision of plate to support 'flipped spacebar' for fun after seeing the AEK64 design. In a result I think it happens to support Dutch spacebar hopefully. This doesn't help your situation because you already assembled, bu t if you are willing to check the new plate design with the Dutch spacebar let me know, I will send you one.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YRzVBT5h.jpg)
...
I didn't know there are variation of stab wire like that, what model number of keyboard did you get the space bar and stabilizer from? AEK US layout?
And if you still have the keyboard could you post pic of its stab cutouts around space bar? It would be helpful to know the cutouts dimension.
This is my space bars from AEKs(M3501 and M0115J). Stab wires and inserts are apparently different.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bjEVbAS.jpg)
The other day I found AEK64 case has extra cutouts on upper side and wasn't sure its reason. But the extra cutouts work with your spacebars probably?
https://i.imgur.com/xs91dSt.jpg
Here's the imgur album of the keyboard from the user I bought the caps: https://imgur.com/a/gYJqo
You can see the stabilizer wire is reversed on it. It's an AEK 1 M0115 (Dutch version). The AEK case indeed seems to have the cutouts for reverse mounting. It's good to know but since I already assembled my keyboard with your plate I'm fine with using the spacebar reversed.
Thanks for the photos. Ah, I see. the spacebar stabilizer on Dutch model is different from US AEKs and I haven't seen this.
And I didn't know Dutch keyboard layout has US type enter key instead of ISO big one, TIL.
Without knowing Dutch AEK I added the extra cutouts on new revision of plate to support 'flipped spacebar' for fun after seeing the AEK64 design. In a result I think it happens to support Dutch spacebar hopefully. This doesn't help your situation because you already assembled, bu t if you are willing to check the new plate design with the Dutch spacebar let me know, I will send you one.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YRzVBT5h.jpg)
I would be interested in trying out the flipped spacebar XD
Can you send me the design so I can get it cut?
...
Thanks for the photos. Ah, I see. the spacebar stabilizer on Dutch model is different from US AEKs and I haven't seen this.
And I didn't know Dutch keyboard layout has US type enter key instead of ISO big one, TIL.
Without knowing Dutch AEK I added the extra cutouts on new revision of plate to support 'flipped spacebar' for fun after seeing the AEK64 design. In a result I think it happens to support Dutch spacebar hopefully. This doesn't help your situation because you already assembled, bu t if you are willing to check the new plate design with the Dutch spacebar let me know, I will send you one.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YRzVBT5h.jpg)
It's quite strange since ISO layout is these days the default for most keyboards here, though ANSI alternatives are often available as well.
Sure, I can check the plate design with this spacebar if you want. My invoice number is 1563. If you can't get the address from that I can PM you as well.
Edit: @hasu I received the plate today. I was able to mount the spacebar the same way as it was on the original AEK I keyboard. I made a GIF and took some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/8FZf8gD
The spacebar is very responsive and as you can see I was able to press it down from both corners as well. If you have any questions please let me know.
@hasu will you ever be working on a 65% or TKL version of the ALPS64?
As for 1st issue,
a. keys(89IJ...) on K7* group(row7) don't register but N(K72) does(and I guess App(Menu) of K70 also works, right?).
From how PCB traces of K4* go connection I suspect connection between B and N was damaged for some reason. Try retouch points indicated by arrow in this pic with soldering iron. If it doesn't work you will have to make jumper wire betwen them.
(Attachment Link)
b. Keys(23WES...) are located on K4*(row4). Check if K40(Left win) work again, if it does try to retouch soldering points of diodes D42.
If K40 still doesn't work try to retouch D40 frist and then microcontroller pin in pic with drop of liquid flux. In this case it could be damaged probably in production or while delivery, not your fault. Sorry about that.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hi Guys,
I'm new here, and I'm working on my ALPS64 keyboard. I've followed the instructions above and I am stuck at flashing the keyboard.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$ dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash unimap.hex
Error opening unimap.hex
See --debug=51 or greater for more information.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$
Not sure if I've properly downloaded the .hex from TMK keymap editor and it won't open on my MacBook Air. Here's my map. https://goo.gl/QYFhTc
I've tried saving it to desktop and renaming it, but no luck. I'm not at all familiar with Terminal so maybe I'm missing something really simple like specifying the file location. Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
Hi Guys,
I'm new here, and I'm working on my ALPS64 keyboard. I've followed the instructions above and I am stuck at flashing the keyboard.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$ dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$ sudo dfu-programmer atmega32u2 flash unimap.hex
Error opening unimap.hex
See --debug=51 or greater for more information.
Thomass-MacBook-Air:~ Tom$
Can anyone put in plain English, step by step what to download for macOS? I'm running High Sierra if that matters. I just build my first custom Alps64. Purchases a PCB from Hasu. Purchased an acrylic plate and base to go along with the orange Alps I harvest from an AEK.
I'm ready to program but the instructions aren't written for a novice and I'm kinda freaked out about playing around in terminal and putting the Mac into DFU mode.......
Any direct help would be greatly appreciated. This build has been sitting on my desk for 24 hours and I haven't been able to use it yet. I'm dying....
Hey i just built alps64 iso layout and was just wondering how to change tilde key to escape, was looking around tmk keymap editor but just couldnt figure it out. Thanks
Hi again Hasu :) Any chance you have any PCBs and plates left for sale?
Hey i just built alps64 iso layout and was just wondering how to change tilde key to escape, was looking around tmk keymap editor but just couldnt figure it out. Thanks
what is your layout and where the "tilde" key is located physically?
And what charactor does the "tilde" key spit out when you press with default firmware?
Hey i just built alps64 iso layout and was just wondering how to change tilde key to escape, was looking around tmk keymap editor but just couldnt figure it out. Thanks
what is your layout and where the "tilde" key is located physically?
And what charactor does the "tilde" key spit out when you press with default firmware?
Hey, sorry for not replying in a while, the tilde key i next to the number one, and it spits out ` when pressed.
So was wondering how to make that key be ESC by default, and how do i program a second layer with fn key ex. 1-9 numbers to be f1- f9 or fn+m to be delete.
Is there any tut or something simple?
Hey i just built alps64 iso layout and was just wondering how to change tilde key to escape, was looking around tmk keymap editor but just couldnt figure it out. Thanks
what is your layout and where the "tilde" key is located physically?
And what charactor does the "tilde" key spit out when you press with default firmware?
Hey, sorry for not replying in a while, the tilde key i next to the number one, and it spits out ` when pressed.
So was wondering how to make that key be ESC by default, and how do i program a second layer with fn key ex. 1-9 numbers to be f1- f9 or fn+m to be delete.
Is there any tut or something simple?
You can program hasu's pcb with the QMK configurator.
Hey i just built alps64 iso layout and was just wondering how to change tilde key to escape, was looking around tmk keymap editor but just couldnt figure it out. Thanks
what is your layout and where the "tilde" key is located physically?
And what charactor does the "tilde" key spit out when you press with default firmware?
Hey, sorry for not replying in a while, the tilde key i next to the number one, and it spits out ` when pressed.
So was wondering how to make that key be ESC by default, and how do i program a second layer with fn key ex. 1-9 numbers to be f1- f9 or fn+m to be delete.
Is there any tut or something simple?
You can program hasu's pcb with the QMK configurator.
Yea i am aware of that, just asking how to do it, is there a guide or smth
Hey more questions, was wondering does pcb support this layout - its Croatian ISO, so its not standard ISO ( esc is 1.25u, backspace is 1.75u, enter 1u etc etc) so if this layout is supported il get a new plate cut. There is also a pic of mine butchered alps64 since i didnt take this weird layout into account. Images here - https://imgur.com/a/zcuksSn
flip gave me "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found". I've selected ATmega32u2 and put the board in bootloader mode. but it gives me that error.
flip gave me "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found". I've selected ATmega32u2 and put the board in bootloader mode. but it gives me that error.
troubleshoot section has solution for the exact problem.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#flash-firmware
So I finally have my board assembled - and I want to repmap some of the keys.
I have the map downloaded from the online editor - but I can't get DFU to compile. Which is probably just me being stupid.
iIs there a source for DFU or another firmware flash tool that will work on OSX?
I do have access to a Windows machine and i can probably use flip, but I don't want to defile my new keeb by connecting it to PC hardware.
Ah - sorry - from reading the readme file at source-forge it seems that DFU needs to be compiled for LINIX/MAC OS.
"dfu-programmer-x.x.x.tar.gz contains the source tree for this project.
Download this to build and install on a Linux/Unix/Mac system."
Perhaps you can tell me which file is the executable from the screenshot below?
Ah - sorry - from reading the readme file at source-forge it seems that DFU needs to be compiled for LINIX/MAC OS.
"dfu-programmer-x.x.x.tar.gz contains the source tree for this project.
Download this to build and install on a Linux/Unix/Mac system."
Perhaps you can tell me which file is the executable from the screenshot below?
dfu-programmer-x.x.x.tar.gz contains the source tree for this project.
Download this to build and install on a Linux/Unix/Mac system.
dfu-programmer-win-x.x.x.zip contains the pre-compiled Windows executable
and the USB drivers for use with Atmel chips in DFU bootloader mode.
The Windows executable does not need any installation or setup. Just
extract the executable and run it.
The Windows driver can be installed when prompted by Windows when a DFU
device is attached. Do not let Windows search for a driver; specify
the path to search for a driver and point it to the .inf file.
Do you know if Matias keycap sets work with the AEK plate?
Do you have any plans in the future to sell a plate that supports Tai-Hao spacebars (Cherry mounts for the stabilizers, 6.25u)?I have no plan to do so.
Do you know a company that will make the plate out of the same material from a .svg file? Thanks.
Yes the pcb and plate are still available :-)
Would an older pcb be compatible with the newest plate file?
Would an older pcb be compatible with the newest plate file?
Yes. PCB supports AEK layout, and so does the plate. All he changed with the plate is more configurations for the spacebar. So as long as you're using an ANSI AEK layout, youre good to go.
Just wanted to know if it’s possible. I’ve yet to add my own LED strip to a pcb and wanted to know whether it was possible with this one. Figured all you would need is a ground and 5v supply but again I’ve never done it so I wasn’t certain. Will probably try it with a short single color strip.
oxchamballs, nice. what case do you have planned for it?
Just wanted to know if it’s possible. I’ve yet to add my own LED strip to a pcb and wanted to know whether it was possible with this one. Figured all you would need is a ground and 5v supply but again I’ve never done it so I wasn’t certain. Will probably try it with a short single color strip.
I followed a guide on reddit and managed to get rgb underglow with qmk working on my Alps64Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/454659720385527808/488753931112022017/IMG_20180911_005239.jpg)
I have an older rev of the pcb so I had to solder directly to the mcu, but it should be easier since the new revs have breakout pins (I think).
Links to this guide? I'm doing this with mine.
Links to this guide? I'm doing this with mine.
It's this one by u/thebeephaha
- https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6woxfp/photos_alps_brown_build_in_kbdfans_tina_with_diy/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6woxfp/photos_alps_brown_build_in_kbdfans_tina_with_diy/)
- https://imgur.com/a/2ekOh (https://imgur.com/a/2ekOh)
Oh. I am the dumb. Thanks
Do you have any plans in the future to sell a plate that supports Tai-Hao spacebars (Cherry mounts for the stabilizers, 6.25u)?
What BT module are you using? What is it's current draw? Are you using lots of leds? Please post your build/setup.
Hasu, do you know what the current draw of your pcb is (in minimal configuration)?
Hi Hasu. Thank you for the PCB - everything works beautifully. I am still waiting for the case and I will upload photos. I tried to make a version with external bluetooth - unfortunately the battery life is very short - about 12 hours with 2600 mAh. So I have a question about whether you plan to make a PCB with bluetooth onboard? Greetings
void matrix_init_kb(void) {
setPinOutput(C6);
writePinHigh(C6);
_delay_ms(250);
writePinLow(C6);
_delay_ms(250);
writePinHigh(C6);
_delay_ms(250);
#include <avr/io.h>
#include <util/delay.h>
#define SPEAKER_PORT PORTC
#define SPEAKER_DDR DDRC
#define SPEAKER_PIN 6
void delay_10_us(uint16_t count) {
while(count--) {
_delay_us(10);
}
}
void PLAYNOTE(float duration, float frequency)
{
long int i,cycles;
float half_period;
float wavelength;
wavelength=(1/frequency)*1000;
cycles=duration/wavelength;
half_period = (wavelength/2)*34;
SPEAKER_DDR |= (1 << SPEAKER_PIN);
for (i=0;i<cycles;i++)
{
delay_10_us(half_period);
SPEAKER_PORT |= (1 << SPEAKER_PIN);
delay_10_us(half_period);
SPEAKER_PORT &= ~(1 << SPEAKER_PIN);
}
return;
}
PLAYNOTE(400,880);
PLAYNOTE(400,932);
PLAYNOTE(400,988);
PLAYNOTE(400,1047);
PLAYNOTE(400,1109);
Will the stabilizer set from matias.store fit all stabs for this pcb?
Also, do you happen to know what keycaps(especially the bot row) will fit?
I was thinking of getting this: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1362
Yes, I was going to get the alps64 pcb and fr4 aek plate, both from Hasu.
Then I guess both stabs and keycaps I've listed would work. Thanks Hasu and crd!
Yes, I was going to get the alps64 pcb and fr4 aek plate, both from Hasu.
Then I guess both stabs and keycaps I've listed would work. Thanks Hasu and crd!
My AEK plate was designed for Apple Extended Keyboard layout, the keycaps you linked doesn't fit on it because its bottom row is completely diffrent. I'd recommend you get from keycaps and stabilizers from Apple Extended Keyboard(including II).
Yes, I was going to get the alps64 pcb and fr4 aek plate, both from Hasu.
Then I guess both stabs and keycaps I've listed would work. Thanks Hasu and crd!
My AEK plate was designed for Apple Extended Keyboard layout, the keycaps you linked doesn't fit on it because its bottom row is completely diffrent. I'd recommend you get from keycaps and stabilizers from Apple Extended Keyboard(including II).
Will this work?https://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Deluxe-Computer-Keyboard-PS2-Macintosh-Gray-PS-2-Apple-Design-M2980-/331460962111?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Sorry I just have 0 knowledge in alps keyboards.
Hello, I need some help, long story short I lifted off this contact pad and now am looking for a solution, the other contact pad is in an okay condition.Just run a jumper from the next pad over.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Is the PCB compatible with Mekanisk Klippe or KBDfans tofu cases?
I'm thinking about try to build an alps build. Where can I get the stabs?
I'm encountering an issue with my keyboard. It seems intermittently I'll enter my Layer 2, which is modal, without hitting the trigger key (right Ctrl). I know I'm in it, because tapping right Ctrl will exit the layer and resume normal keyboard operations. I've only noticed this happening since I switched to a USB-C to USB-Mini cable. I certainly don't recall it ever happening with a standard USB-A cable.
Not really sure where to start diagnosing this. Hardware? Software?
Anyone else encountering something like that? I'm attaching my current firmware.
Can i use with this pcb ibm 5140 plate? (after cutting to pcb size)The bottom row looks like 1.5u-1.5u blocker-1.5u-5u spacebar-1.5u, so no it wouldn't work.
I have an orange build using this PCB, the spacebar requires pressing in the center and action directed downwards and towards my body if that makes sense to depress completely smoothly, otherwise it is met with grinding force. Anyone know if this is due to incorrect stabilizer wires on the spacebar? The pieces of the stabilizer wire slide into black pieces on the spacebar.
I have an orange build using this PCB, the spacebar requires pressing in the center and action directed downwards and towards my body if that makes sense to depress completely smoothly, otherwise it is met with grinding force. Anyone know if this is due to incorrect stabilizer wires on the spacebar? The pieces of the stabilizer wire slide into black pieces on the spacebar.
What board did the caps & more importantly the stabilizers come from? The plate that comes with the ALPS64 is made specifically for the AEK layout & caps, the AEK's spacebar uses a wire that has it's return bends to catch the cap inserts that is shorter than any other ALPS spacebar stabilizer I have ever seen. So wire is the likely culprit, even if it is from an AEK/AEKII since any little bend could cause those issues as well IME. If you could post some pics of the stabilizer or that plus a video of what the spacebar is doing we could get a better ideal of what is really going on with your board.
How do I purchase one of these pcbs with plate?
Does anyone know if the plate will be compatible with other PCBs like XD60?
Tested the pcb, looked good. Soldered diodes, testing along the way; all was well. Got my switches on and the following keys do not register with default firmware:
~1
[tab] q
[caps] a
Caps is a push button white switch, the rest are oranges. All switches were in working condition before assembly.
Wiped with isopropyl, checked the diodes (one is at a wonky angle but it was working fine before and doesnt seem to be touching anything its not supposed to be touching), soldering looks good.
I'm at a loss. Is this one of those "broken columns" I keep hearing about?
Any timel line on when pcbs and plates will be back in stock? Looking to do a AEK build. If not, anyone have any alternatives?
Any timel line on when pcbs and plates will be back in stock? Looking to do a AEK build. If not, anyone have any alternatives?
PCB has already shipped in China but seems to be stuck in Hongkong for a week. I guess it will take a few weeks at least.
hi, is there a way to map a key and make it go to bootloader mode? similar to qmk's RESET.Maybe a silly question, but why not run QMK on it? https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/alps64
aah never thought of this, thanks!hi, is there a way to map a key and make it go to bootloader mode? similar to qmk's RESET.Maybe a silly question, but why not run QMK on it? https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/alps64
hi, is there a way to map a key and make it go to bootloader mode? similar to qmk's RESET.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2apt2Cr.jpg)
Yes, the case is pressing against the little extended tab. I would file down the case though, instead of the PCB. You just need to remove enough so the tab will fit into the case a bit.
The two pins actually look ok as they are.
Yes, I use a alps64 with tofu case
You can't just replace the connector on the PCB. You need to modify the PCB design.
There was no filing needed for the TOFU case. I did not use hasus plate, but I do not think it needs modification.
Is there a reason it's not USB-C? Slash are there plans for USB-C in the future?You'll have to ask hasu, iirc, it's a question of reliability. Some prefer mini over C. ;D
Does Hasu have a USB-C version available? If not, is it trivial to just switch out the female mini-B USB connector with a female USB-C connector?
Does Hasu have a USB-C version available? If not, is it trivial to just switch out the female mini-B USB connector with a female USB-C connector?
It would be easier to use the cable intended for use. Or spend $2, and get the correct cable.
If your laptop only has USB-C, you could get a USB-C to Mini-B cable. (not an adapter)
is there a pcb thats compatable with the skcc alps switch?
Hey folks,
I had a small run of pcbs made, since hasu can't ship to the US.
These are the maartenwut plain60 alps pcb (on his github).
These didn't come fully assembled: I had to hand solder a few components, and as such, they aren't "beautiful". But work fine as I can tell, flash qmk etc.
They do have a JST connector, however it's traces are backwards.
Anyway, PM me here, or on discord: fireworm#4461.
Price is $35 shipped within US, pics on request.
Ooh, that is tempting. Do you carry plates as well?I ended up with a very specific plate, wkl IBM 5140 (big ass enter).
Ooh, that is tempting. Do you carry plates as well?I ended up with a very specific plate, wkl IBM 5140 (big ass enter).
Have about 3. Will sell for $5 each.
...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....Yup. Tell me about it.
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)
...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)
...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)
sorry for breathing man lmao
Hi!
I'm having a strange problem with my Alps64 board. Both Alt keys K70 and K60 (or Cmd- if mac), that's both keys next to the spacebar, stopped registering.
I've dismantled it, making manual contact does not register (it does the rest of keys). Diodes all show right with the tester (0.640V in diode mode).
usbhid-dump shows no key being emitted for those two keys.
Firmware flashing works. Neither mac nor linux nor windows register any of those keys. (NB: It started before flashing, without doing nothing special.)
I reflashed afterwards, just in case, but no luck.
Maybe setting qmk into debug mode? Static? Gremlins?
r/c 01234567
00: 00000000
01: 00000000
02: 00000000
03: 00000000
04: 00000000
05: 10000000
06: 00000000
07: 10000000
DESC: TMK keyboard firmware for Alps64
VID: 0xFEED(TMK) PID: 0x6464(Alps64) VER: 0x0001
BUILD: 494faeb4 (17:11:03 Mar 29 2019)
OPTIONS: LUFA BOOTMAGIC MOUSEKEY EXTRAKEY CONSOLE COMMAND 4096
GCC: 6.4.0 AVR-LIBC: 2.0.0 AVR_ARCH: avr35
I just got my alps64 finished up, and this thing is sweet. Thanks hasu, shipping was quick and the build went really good.
It won't matter which side which side you put diodes on. But place diodes on "bottom" and solder on top if there is no special need.
As a general rule you put through-hole components on side which has silkscreen guide mark and solder on another side, I think.
Check "Assembly" in the first post if not yet.
Typically, through hole components are all topside and soldered on the underside.
Bend diodes pretty much right after glass. Make a sharp u shape, place through pcb. Then spread lags apart to hold in place. Continue on till all diodes placed then flip over & solder & snip.
yes :DAMAZING. I will email you soon!