I understand the svelte keyboard is in.. But more keys is better especially because if you tent the keyboard to 55 degrees, you essentually reduced the left-right footprint by 2 units.. There's no reason not to add as many keys as you can.
For the ergodox for example.. I think another extra 2 rows on top and one extra column in the center would be perfectly useable..
Pokers look cool on the desk, but they're not practical in use unless you're a very light user. --the face book people-- hahahaha
Browsing this ortholinear and ergonomic side of the mkb world I still don't understand how we have the Ergodox, the Preonic, the Split Planck, but not a Split Preonic and an ortholinear Ergodox.
An ergo version of the Split Planck seems like a step forward to all these possibilities, nice job.
I went down the --layout-- rabbit hole for the longest time. Starting with TKL flat, then to split flat.
Eventually I realized after getting the ergodox, I realized what I was looking for was actually just TENTING..
The layout of the keys matter very little because when you're tented at a high angle, the lateral key crossings are accomplished by Major muscles groups located HIGHER UP on the arm.
The arm being as long as it is, is a long lever, which means, any little movement, less than 1 degree, and you can cross the entire 2 or 3 key spacings you'd normally make on any keyboard..
That is to say, key layout simply does not matter too much ..
The most important thing is TENTING..
Which smaller boards have more trouble with, because they are lighter and could fall over without adding weights..
Everything in the end is moddable.. but for the most convenience.. The ergodox with 2 more rows, and 1 more inside column, and possibly more weight is the only modification I find (Practical)..
Everything else is more aesthetic than useful.
I went down the --layout-- rabbit hole for the longest time. Starting with TKL flat, then to split flat.
Eventually I realized after getting the ergodox, I realized what I was looking for was actually just TENTING..
The layout of the keys matter very little because when you're tented at a high angle, the lateral key crossings are accomplished by Major muscles groups located HIGHER UP on the arm.
The arm being as long as it is, is a long lever, which means, any little movement, less than 1 degree, and you can cross the entire 2 or 3 key spacings you'd normally make on any keyboard..
That is to say, key layout simply does not matter too much ..
The most important thing is TENTING..
Which smaller boards have more trouble with, because they are lighter and could fall over without adding weights..
Everything in the end is moddable.. but for the most convenience.. The ergodox with 2 more rows, and 1 more inside column, and possibly more weight is the only modification I find (Practical)..
Everything else is more aesthetic than useful.
Tp4 you don't need to capslock TENTING, we all know that it's the most important thing for you!
You know, I've been around only a couple of months but I've already read about you going on and on about TENTING so much that one day I think I'm going to introduce myself with something like "the most important thing is TENTING." XD
Anyway OP when you come by with the lovechild of the ergodox and the split preonic please supported by QMK please let me know.
Is this tenting kit enough for the famous ideal 55 degrees?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wRJY3HB.jpg)
Is there even a tenting kit online for such an angle?
I don't need to drag this (https://www.amazon.it/POGGIALIBRI-legno-Sheesham-intarsiato-Decorazioni/dp/B00CAQ5KSE/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1493758970&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=poggialibro) old thing from whatever corner we put it do I?
that only looks like 15-25 degrees.. layed flat.
If you turn that vertically, it might be close to 55. but i'm not sure how you're doing the coupling.
that only looks like 15-25 degrees.. layed flat.
If you turn that vertically, it might be close to 55. but i'm not sure how you're doing the coupling.
Does coupling here mean supported? Because I was thinking about just letting the boards rest on the tenting kit, whatever that will be, and putting a couple of rubber pads on the corners of the boards so they don't slide off. I don't think I'm a huge fan of drilling holes or having long a* screws scratching around on my desk.
Anyway, I was thinking of rounding up my browsing this month and finally buy a kit before June. Who knew that I could get invested enough in mkb to read around for two months just to buy a new one. That's the ergonomic rabbit hole for me I guess.
But essentially, because you now CAN move the two pieces around to suit what you're doing,Yeah that makes sense, that sounds very impractical.
you WILL move them around quite often.
So if you got the stand that's not connected to the board, it's 2 extra things you need to align and move each time.
So that's not a practical solution.
I don't know the resolution of your printer, but if that type of tenting solution is what you've settled on, you should be able to print an m3 and countersinked hole for it.I don't own a 3D printer but my local repair tech shop does so I plan to download the file and have a chat with them.
For me, I have a giant mouse pad, and everythign just goes ontop of that. So I just have a 40mm screw + 30mm coupler + 100mm screw on the inside edge of my ergodox..
This gives me approximately 55 degrees.
But essentially, because you now CAN move the two pieces around to suit what you're doing,Yeah that makes sense, that sounds very impractical.
you WILL move them around quite often.
So if you got the stand that's not connected to the board, it's 2 extra things you need to align and move each time.
So that's not a practical solution.I don't know the resolution of your printer, but if that type of tenting solution is what you've settled on, you should be able to print an m3 and countersinked hole for it.I don't own a 3D printer but my local repair tech shop does so I plan to download the file and have a chat with them.
For me, I have a giant mouse pad, and everythign just goes ontop of that. So I just have a 40mm screw + 30mm coupler + 100mm screw on the inside edge of my ergodox..
This gives me approximately 55 degrees.
Holy hell, that's high.
So the good old screwsShow Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22780.0;attach=30044;image)
But WAY higherShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVZRjBE.jpg)
Damn I don't get to have the wooden case do I?
The first picture is what I was doing at first, but then i realized I need ULTRA high..
The second picture is approximately the same angle I have mine at.
However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.
This creates a central lever, so whenever you type near the edge of the keyboard it wants to fall out..
So 40mm or 50mm m3 screws + coupler + 100mm screw is the ideal tenting solution right now..
As for 3d printing, the down side is, BEFORE you know what angle you want, the print costs you money and it might not be the best fit.
You can readily download solidworks (fusion3d) and draw something up to be printed yourself.. but even then it doesn't offer any adjust ability ..
However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.BTW. I like the Goldtouch's feet. Piece of rubber at the edge of the case. Not on the bottom near the edge - at the edge.
However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.BTW. I like the Goldtouch's feet. Piece of rubber at the edge of the case. Not on the bottom near the edge - at the edge.
This has nothing to do with the OP's topic.
Can we please just give tp4tissue his own thread about tenting... that we can all ignore?
I would suggest switching from using Teensy 2.0 to Arduino Pro Micros and placing them under the innermost columns.
- Innermost column because that would allow you to build a sleeker lower-profile keyboard with a small default tenting.
- APM because they are much cheaper. You can get three or four of them for the price of one Teensy 2.0.However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.BTW. I like the Goldtouch's feet. Piece of rubber at the edge of the case. Not on the bottom near the edge - at the edge.
I would suggest switching from using Teensy 2.0 to Arduino Pro Micros and placing them under the innermost columns.
- Innermost column because that would allow you to build a sleeker lower-profile keyboard with a small default tenting.
- APM because they are much cheaper. You can get three or four of them for the price of one Teensy 2.0.However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.BTW. I like the Goldtouch's feet. Piece of rubber at the edge of the case. Not on the bottom near the edge - at the edge.
It does use pro micros, and the PCB has been completely redesigned to allow it to get down to only 8 vias. It also uses trrs to connect the halves now, as I found out that the 5th pin on micro and mini usb just goes to gnd to tell USB if it is a master or a slave when using otg. Because of this, it would only work with custom USB cables. I am also working on adding led backlighting currently.
Just wanted to say I'm really excited to try the orthodox out. After using a minidox for a while I'm pretty pumped to try the larger thumb cluster and standard ortho layout. Thanks for putting it together!
Just wanted to say I'm really excited to try the orthodox out. After using a minidox for a while I'm pretty pumped to try the larger thumb cluster and standard ortho layout. Thanks for putting it together!
Glad to hear it :) The protos are still being produced, they should be shipped out to me next week if all goes well. :llama:
PCBs have arrived, and I have one built and fully functioning. I am waiting on my order of boxes, and then I will ship out the protos.
(Attachment Link)
PCBs have arrived, and I have one built and fully functioning. I am waiting on my order of boxes, and then I will ship out the protos.
(Attachment Link)
Those Diablo2 rune keycaps are so lovely!
Sooo... how are people liking their orthodox kits? :D
This is the perfect form factor for a small stenoboard for plover. :thumb:
Where did you get the plates cut?
Are you going to do a round 2? :DSooo... how are people liking their orthodox kits? :D
I like mine
Are you going to do a round 2? :DSooo... how are people liking their orthodox kits? :D
I like mine
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Awesoooome! Can't wait man!Are you going to do a round 2? :DSooo... how are people liking their orthodox kits? :D
I like mine
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
This wasn't even really round 1 per say, just needed to fund the concept, so I sold some prototypes. A GB with an actual case is planned soon™ :llama:
This wasn't even really round 1 per say, just needed to fund the concept, so I sold some prototypes. A GB with an actual case is planned soon™ :llama:
I'm intereseted!I have no intentions of adding caps lock LEDs.This wasn't even really round 1 per say, just needed to fund the concept, so I sold some prototypes. A GB with an actual case is planned soon :llama:
will the GB PCBs be revised?
I mean can you add some leds to it, I need a few leds for indication (i.e Capslock)
looking forwards to the GB :thumb:
Is a GB still being planned?
Is a GB still being planned?
But of course! I have a new revision to post here soon, and a GB with a real case will be in the weeks to come.
Is there a reason for the 1.25 Modifiers versus the 1U? have you received any feedback on that? If the inspiration comes from the Planck/let's split, I would love to see it have more parity with those key sets. I know, I know, I can still put 1U keys there. But the gap man, the gap! If anything I'd rather see a spot for a 2u key instead of a 1.25, but that's just me.It looked odd with 1u, the 1.25 was mostly an aesthetic choice. Due to the small size of the board, I do not have anything that fancy planned, but rather an acrylic sandwich case, sorry if that's a turnoff. You guys have to remember how much of a cheapskate I am.
Real excited for the GB. Milled aluminum cases planned? Brass or steel plates? The smaller these things go the more I want them heavy and sturdy so they don't bounce around from my heavy typing.
remember how much of a cheapskate I am
Whats the inner circumference of the switch holes for current revision of the pcb? Im planning to use hot swap sockets and I want to make sure they fit :DAt this very moment, I can't check, as my PC has been dead for a few weeks, been working on a spare. I can tell you that it does work with holtites, as one of mine is fully kitted out with them.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Thanks! Thats enough information for me.Whats the inner circumference of the switch holes for current revision of the pcb? Im planning to use hot swap sockets and I want to make sure they fit :DAt this very moment, I can't check, as my PC has been dead for a few weeks, been working on a spare. I can tell you that it does work with holtites, as one of mine is fully kitted out with them.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
I would suggest switching from using Teensy 2.0 to Arduino Pro Micros and placing them under the innermost columns.
- Innermost column because that would allow you to build a sleeker lower-profile keyboard with a small default tenting.
- APM because they are much cheaper. You can get three or four of them for the price of one Teensy 2.0.However as it turns out, the tripod solution that the ergopro uses is NOT good, because it connects to the keyboard at a single pivot point.BTW. I like the Goldtouch's feet. Piece of rubber at the edge of the case. Not on the bottom near the edge - at the edge.
It does use pro micros, and the PCB has been completely redesigned to allow it to get down to only 8 vias. It also uses trrs to connect the halves now, as I found out that the 5th pin on micro and mini usb just goes to gnd to tell USB if it is a master or a slave when using otg. Because of this, it would only work with custom USB cables. I am also working on adding led backlighting currently.
Browsing this ortholinear and ergonomic side of the mkb world I still don't understand how we have the Ergodox, the Preonic, the Split Planck, but not a Split Preonic and an ortholinear Ergodox.Ergodox is already ortholinear for the alphas.
An ergo version of the Split Planck seems like a step forward to all these possibilities, nice job.
I understand the svelte keyboard is in.. But more keys is better especially because if you tent the keyboard to 55 degrees, you essentually reduced the left-right footprint by 2 units.. There's no reason not to add as many keys as you can.
For the ergodox for example.. I think another extra 2 rows on top and one extra column in the center would be perfectly useable..
Pokers look cool on the desk, but they're not practical in use unless you're a very light user. --the face book people-- hahahaha