Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I'm confused why the group buy says $275usd per kit but on the website it shows $340?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I'm confused why the group buy says $275usd per kit but on the website it shows $340?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The transaction and sales fee are included within the price on the website.
I'm confused why the group buy says $275usd per kit but on the website it shows $340?
It includes shipping which is a flat rate + transaction PayPal fees
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The transaction and sales fee are included within the price on the website.
Finally! BTW it shows as sold out but I'm going to assume it's still being set up.
:D ;D ;D ;D
Does anyone know what sort of battery the BT version uses? Would love an example/link to one, just so I don't get the wrong one and blow my keyboard up 😅
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
:D ;D ;D ;D
Does anyone know what sort of battery the BT version uses? Would love an example/link to one, just so I don't get the wrong one and blow my keyboard up 😅
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
Awesome, thanks for clarifying!I'm confused why the group buy says $275usd per kit but on the website it shows $340?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The transaction and sales fee are included within the price on the website.
It includes shipping which is a flat rate + transaction PayPal fees
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
BT PCB supports TMK only at the moment. Maybe someone might able to get it goes with QMK.
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
BT PCB supports TMK only at the moment. Maybe someone might able to get it goes with QMK.
Have a link to the CAD66 TMK source?
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
hex file won't do much good in porting to qmk. need the source files for that.
BT PCB supports TMK only at the moment. Maybe someone might able to get it goes with QMK.
Have a link to the CAD66 TMK source?
I don’t know where the source is but I know the firmware file can be created at ydkb.io
Perhaps add clarification that at least at this time the BT PCB only supports TMK?
I never really heard any clarification on this, but if it supports TMK, why can it not support QMK? is it just that the port hasn't been done, or is it that the port isn't possible?
BT PCB supports TMK only at the moment. Maybe someone might able to get it goes with QMK.
Have a link to the CAD66 TMK source?
I don’t know where the source is but I know the firmware file can be created at ydkb.io
Is it possible to get PVD Brass Alps plate? or red. :)
Will the silver this time once again be the very matte silver?
Also is it possible to show the white case colour next to the silver case colour? And could you show both with default 9009 type keycap set to get a sense of whiteness?
Thanks!!
so there'll be no gold rose color like R1 ?
This may be noted somewhere but I would like to confirm; is the brass plate is compatible with the BT PCB?
Plate pic. The upper one is for Alps, the other one is for both alu and brass.
All these are compatible with BT PCB.
(Attachment Link)
Plate pic. The upper one is for Alps, the other one is for both alu and brass.
All these are compatible with BT PCB.
(Attachment Link)
Do you have a specific battery that you recommend? Is there a certain connection type required for the PCB?
I just want to be 100% sure before I order: the PCB/BT PCB/plates are all compatible with R1 case, correct?
why there is no different between normal and special color price ???
no rose gold this time?I'm sad. i like rose gold
edit: i didnt see it got cancelled.
no rose gold this time?I'm sad. i like rose gold
edit: i didnt see it got cancelled.
it will fit with my SA Bubble :(
This is tough. If you are getting white, which keycaps are you going to use? I'm thinking of using Metaverse.
In for Dark Red, Brass Plate, BT PCB. Now just to light a fire under Input Club to start SA Royalty GB for matching keyset!
In for Dark Red, Brass Plate, BT PCB. Now just to light a fire under Input Club to start SA Royalty GB for matching keyset!
I'm going to go with Dark Red and GMK Red Samurai. Brass plate for bling and feeling. Not sure about BT yet think I'll go wired.
This is tough. If you are getting white, which keycaps are you going to use? I'm thinking of using Metaverse.
Metaverse would work pretty well. In my opinion anything with white alphas and non-white mods would look good.
A bluetooth switch between Tab and Q
This is tough. If you are getting white, which keycaps are you going to use? I'm thinking of using Metaverse.
Metaverse would work pretty well. In my opinion anything with white alphas and non-white mods would look good.
True good point. Now I wish I went in for Serika.
I think space cadet would look great on white. Guess I'll try that or Maxkey Ashen on white or grey... or black...or silver.
Always looking so good. if there was a board to get me to buy MX. . . it has me thinking.
Just ordered this telephone cord I'm going to modify for use with the dark red CA66!
(Attachment Link)
What color is going to match my taro set the best? I was thinking gray blue may look gud but im not sure.
What stabs are intended to be used on the ALPS plate? ALPS style? If so, one should be able to use Matias or Costar stab inserts to put SP ALPS caps on this board, right?
Is there any difference between the BT PCB and the normal one, other than the BT functionality? Also what kind of stabilizer and switches (PCB or platemount) do I need?
What color is going to match my taro set the best? I was thinking gray blue may look gud but im not sure.
Dark grey or black imo.
What color is going to match my taro set the best? I was thinking gray blue may look gud but im not sure.
Dark grey or black imo.
You both think the purple is too much? It matches the Taro mods so well.
I'm considering about Black and gray one :(
Do you have any comparison between those two.
https://imgur.com/a/PcfAP
which one is black, which one is grey, there is too much filter on these photo that made me hard to imagine the different
I'm considering about Black and gray one :(
Do you have any comparison between those two.
https://imgur.com/a/PcfAP
which one is black, which one is grey, there is too much filter on these photo that made me hard to imagine the different
If I’m not mistaken those are all grey (except the purple) as the shots are from R1 and they had not made a black one yet at that time.
If we just want a BT PCB/plate, is it still 45 shipping? Would love to add BT to my R1 CA66.
So all the picture in that link is gray right ?I'm considering about Black and gray one :(
Do you have any comparison between those two.
https://imgur.com/a/PcfAP
which one is black, which one is grey, there is too much filter on these photo that made me hard to imagine the different
If I’m not mistaken those are all grey (except the purple) as the shots are from R1 and they had not made a black one yet at that time.
Oh I know that one! Yeah purple might be great as well!
So all the picture in that link is gray right ?I'm considering about Black and gray one :(
Do you have any comparison between those two.
https://imgur.com/a/PcfAP
which one is black, which one is grey, there is too much filter on these photo that made me hard to imagine the different
If I’m not mistaken those are all grey (except the purple) as the shots are from R1 and they had not made a black one yet at that time.
Oh I know that one! Yeah purple might be great as well!
it darker than i imagine
Don't now if this has been asked before, but how white is the white option? Is it plain white or off-white?
In the pictures on the site it looks similar to the silver option.
Don't now if this has been asked before, but how white is the white option? Is it plain white or off-white?I too would like to know. I have been thinking that this would finally be the board to put my gmk 9009 on. That's why I would actually prefer off-white over pure white.
In the pictures on the site it looks similar to the silver option.
Just ordered this telephone cord I'm going to modify for use with the dark red CA66!
(Attachment Link)
Just ordered this telephone cord I'm going to modify for use with the dark red CA66!
(Attachment Link)
This cable is a perfect match with Dark Red. Are you going to replace the RJ45s with USB connectors? You have enough wires for that inside the cable?
I'm thinking I'll do either the grey blue / drak grey or black (not sure which caps go well with it - I have nautilus, SA Carbon, SA Foundation, 9009, DSA Royal Navy and XDA Canvas ). I should have gotten in on Serika :(
I want to do a unique color, for such a nice case, which is why I'm thinking grey blue. thoughts ?
I'm thinking I'll do either the grey blue / drak grey or black (not sure which caps go well with it - I have nautilus, SA Carbon, SA Foundation, 9009, DSA Royal Navy and XDA Canvas ). I should have gotten in on Serika :(
I want to do a unique color, for such a nice case, which is why I'm thinking grey blue. thoughts ?
The blue is really nice and unique and definitely goes well with Nautilus or neutral sets like 9009. That’s my vote for you!
Yah I'm zero-ing in on the blue... BTW, GMK Jamon might go well with your dark red as well.. if that happens to be run that is...I'm thinking I'll do either the grey blue / drak grey or black (not sure which caps go well with it - I have nautilus, SA Carbon, SA Foundation, 9009, DSA Royal Navy and XDA Canvas ). I should have gotten in on Serika :(
I want to do a unique color, for such a nice case, which is why I'm thinking grey blue. thoughts ?
The blue is really nice and unique and definitely goes well with Nautilus or neutral sets like 9009. That’s my vote for you!
Just ordered this telephone cord I'm going to modify for use with the dark red CA66!
(Attachment Link)
Just ordered this telephone cord I'm going to modify for use with the dark red CA66!
(Attachment Link)
the build you have planned seems ****ing dope and i cannot wait to see it
What color is going to match my taro set the best? I was thinking gray blue may look gud but im not sure.
Dark grey or black imo.
You both think the purple is too much? It matches the Taro mods so well.
I think purple would look nice. I can’t remember which page but someone did a rough mock-up of the purple with taro in the previous gb thread.
I have a round 1 CA66 and am interested in getting a Bluetooth pcb for it. Could someone confirm that the new plates and PCBs will support the round 1 cases?
What are the dimensions of the board? I am planning to get a carrying case for it.
365mm x 168mm, 1365g with SA keycaps approximately
ThanksWhat are the dimensions of the board? I am planning to get a carrying case for it.
This info is from the IC threadQuote365mm x 168mm, 1365g with SA keycaps approximately
I don't see a way to configure for WKL version on this site:
http://ydkb.io/
Am I overlooking something?
I have a round 1 CA66 and am interested in getting a Bluetooth pcb for it. Could someone confirm that the new plates and PCBs will support the round 1 cases?
ThanksWhat are the dimensions of the board? I am planning to get a carrying case for it.
This info is from the IC threadQuote365mm x 168mm, 1365g with SA keycaps approximately
qq does the bluetooth version of the PCB also come with usb-c?
Is there a reason, that, according to the site, you have to pick the more expensive shipping methode?
Okay, perfect, thanks for the fast response!Is there a reason, that, according to the site, you have to pick the more expensive shipping methode?
Because all CA66 stuffs are packaged and shipped in factory directly. They are not going to be shipped to TW first.
We have a guy supervise and QC there, so TW post is not available. ;)
Okay, perfect, thanks for the fast response!Is there a reason, that, according to the site, you have to pick the more expensive shipping methode?
Because all CA66 stuffs are packaged and shipped in factory directly. They are not going to be shipped to TW first.
We have a guy supervise and QC there, so TW post is not available. ;)
Anybody who has the CA66 from the first round can tell us about the status of their "CA66" badge? Does it take dirt easily and does it look bad with it? Or does it look even better a bit worn out :) ? Struggling hard with the WKL version.
I have one from the last round. The badge is still as shiny as the day I got it.
Are there any pictures of the plate colors other than the brass?
Reassuring then :thumb:i want to see non-purple Ca66 with SA hyperfuse too :D
While I'm at it, anybody has a picture of a non-purple CA66 with SA Hyperfuse? I'd like to have a more polyvalent case than purple but can't decide which one :rolleyes:
Struggling with choosing a color :confused:
I'll have SA Symbiosis, SA Godspeed, SA Carbon, and SA Pulse that I would like to use on it. Maybe silver might be the best color choice for these sets?
Struggling with choosing a color :confused:
I'll have SA Symbiosis, SA Godspeed, SA Carbon, and SA Pulse that I would like to use on it. Maybe silver might be the best color choice for these sets?
Struggling with choosing a color :confused:
I'll have SA Symbiosis, SA Godspeed, SA Carbon, and SA Pulse that I would like to use on it. Maybe silver might be the best color choice for these sets?
Reassuring then :thumb:i want to see non-purple Ca66 with SA hyperfuse too :D
While I'm at it, anybody has a picture of a non-purple CA66 with SA Hyperfuse? I'd like to have a more polyvalent case than purple but can't decide which one :rolleyes:
I have one new set and didnt use it yet
Struggling with choosing a color :confused:
I'll have SA Symbiosis, SA Godspeed, SA Carbon, and SA Pulse that I would like to use on it. Maybe silver might be the best color choice for these sets?
FWIW, I have a dark grey from the prior round, and I haven't loved the way my Godspeed caps look on it. Too contrasty. (Carbon would be great, though, and I suspect Symbiosis will as well. SA Calm Depths also looks aces on it.)
That said, I'm also planning on picking up either a silver or white CA66 in this round for use with Godspeed and/or Symbiosis. ;D
@PlayKeyboardTW Is there a way I could just get an Alps alum plate and a Brass plate without the default alum plate ?
@PlayKeyboardTW Is there a way I could just get an Alps alum plate and a Brass plate without the default alum plate ?
No sorry. The designer defined case + alu switch plate + PCB as a basic set. :-[
Reassuring then :thumb:i want to see non-purple Ca66 with SA hyperfuse too :D
While I'm at it, anybody has a picture of a non-purple CA66 with SA Hyperfuse? I'd like to have a more polyvalent case than purple but can't decide which one :rolleyes:
I have one new set and didnt use it yetShow Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4718/24869151867_db96f2201f_b.jpg)
from https://www.ptt.cc/bbs/Key_Mou_Pad/M.1516181932.A.975.html
Is there some way to make it more heavy
with me ~1.34kg is to light :(
Is there some way to make it more heavy
with me ~1.34kg is to light :(
There is space inside the case to line with weights if you wanted
Can you share the plate files so I can cut my own alps plate?
which kind of foam that heavy and reduce the hollow soundIs there some way to make it more heavy
with me ~1.34kg is to light :(
There is space inside the case to line with weights if you wanted
You can consider to put in a foam for both raising a bit weight and reduce the hollow sound. ;)Can you share the plate files so I can cut my own alps plate?
It's already uploaded, in R1 GB thread.
We'll put it in here again. :thumb:
Download CA66 files here: https://goo.gl/DXNwqL
which kind of foam that heavy and reduce the hollow soundIs there some way to make it more heavy
with me ~1.34kg is to light :(
There is space inside the case to line with weights if you wanted
You can consider to put in a foam for both raising a bit weight and reduce the hollow sound. ;)Can you share the plate files so I can cut my own alps plate?
It's already uploaded, in R1 GB thread.
We'll put it in here again. :thumb:
Download CA66 files here: https://goo.gl/DXNwqL
BTW that was the old plate, maybe he one the new plate for bluetooth version
Is the dark red going to match the dark red from r1? It was more of a brown than red, which is a good thing IMO.
Sorry if this has already been answered: If you order a CA66 kit, and then order an extra PCB and plate do we need to pay shipping for the extras, or will they all be shipped together?
- Is the BT PCB USB-C and does it support C to C?
- Does the BT PCB come with a daughter board for the connector like the default one does?
- There were mentions of putting the RGB LEDs on a raised daughter board to prevent light bleed. Was this done, and if so, do both the default and BT PCBs have it?
- Do you have pictures of the different colored alu plates, primarily red?
- Why did the designer decide that the brass plate wouldn't be an option in the main offering? The alu plate is a waste of money for most people who are getting brass plates.
Any idea when we might see a render / sample of the final army green colour on the product page?
Sorry if this has already been answered: If you order a CA66 kit, and then order an extra PCB and plate do we need to pay shipping for the extras, or will they all be shipped together?
So just to be sure, does the non-BT PCB support flashing firmware using the QMK toolbox? Meaning its not like the round 1 PCB which could flash a QMK hex file but only with the ydkb.io reflash tool? If it does support the QMK toolbox, will I have to change the bootloader to use it or will it work out of the box?
Thanks.
CA66 PCBs are using HID bootloader, not normal dfu. So the original toolbox won't support unless there's an upgrade.
In last round wjchen made a QMK toolbox that supports HID bootloader. :thumb:
You guys can check it out here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93542.msg2616991#msg2616991 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93542.msg2616991#msg2616991)
You guys might want to look at the configuration for the online TMK editor, currently it swaps two keys, the up arrow key location of the arrow cluster and the bottom key location of the right hand mod cluster.
it's an easy fix to make everything correct, just assign the up arrow to the bottom right key and the bottom right key to the up arrow location, but it's pretty annoying to have to do that.
You guys might want to look at the configuration for the online TMK editor, currently it swaps two keys, the up arrow key location of the arrow cluster and the bottom key location of the right hand mod cluster.
it's an easy fix to make everything correct, just assign the up arrow to the bottom right key and the bottom right key to the up arrow location, but it's pretty annoying to have to do that.
Hi, I contacted YANG for checking the flaw you said, and there's nothing swapped.
I myself had built several CA66s including from R1 and China GB, and didn't meet the situation you mentioned.
Do you mind to help us check it again? ;)
What lighting options can be used with the strip next to the nav column?
You guys might want to look at the configuration for the online TMK editor, currently it swaps two keys, the up arrow key location of the arrow cluster and the bottom key location of the right hand mod cluster.
it's an easy fix to make everything correct, just assign the up arrow to the bottom right key and the bottom right key to the up arrow location, but it's pretty annoying to have to do that.
Hi, I contacted YANG for checking the flaw you said, and there's nothing swapped.
I myself had built several CA66s including from R1 and China GB, and didn't meet the situation you mentioned.
Do you mind to help us check it again? ;)
yeah, I'll help you check it again, let me know what you need me to do.
I flashed a fresh tmk hex download 3 times last night, thinking I had made a mistake.
ONe more QMK related question. Do the leds work with QMK?
Question: I was a bit confused by the layout pic, does the split spacebar layout only work with the HHKB style CA66 or does it also work with the winkeyless version?Good question. I'm also torn between the two layouts... Can't decide.
Question: I was a bit confused by the layout pic, does the split spacebar layout only work with the HHKB style CA66 or does it also work with the winkeyless version?
Question: I was a bit confused by the layout pic, does the split spacebar layout only work with the HHKB style CA66 or does it also work with the winkeyless version?
Does anyone know if there's room for a layer of dampening phone between the PCB and the bottom of the case?
Just to be absolutely sure: There's no chance to make the pcb hotswappable (with Holtites, Mil Max or anything), right?
Does anyone know if there's room for a layer of dampening phone between the PCB and the bottom of the case?
Yes
Just to be absolutely sure: There's no chance to make the pcb hotswappable (with Holtites, Mil Max or anything), right?
We don't know about it and never test these two components before.
How do you plan to mount the PCB iin CA66 if it's hotswappable?
Just to be absolutely sure: There's no chance to make the pcb hotswappable (with Holtites, Mil Max or anything), right?
We don't know about it and never test these two components before.
How do you plan to mount the PCB iin CA66 if it's hotswappable?Does anyone know if there's room for a layer of dampening phone between the PCB and the bottom of the case?
Yes
Yes. :))
Just to be absolutely sure: There's no chance to make the pcb hotswappable (with Holtites, Mil Max or anything), right?
We don't know about it and never test these two components before.
How do you plan to mount the PCB iin CA66 if it's hotswappable?
Perhaps soldering 4 switches, but I think the sockets have enough friction that mounting isn't needed. I have some hotswap boards without screws and no problems at all.
Do you know the diameter of the holes?
Just for clarification purposes as I'm on the fence on buying either another CA66 or just an extra pcb:
The default pcb now supports programmable RGB LEDs, correct? The previous pcb wasn't programmable, just a light strip, if I remember it correctly.
How is the USB-C connector on YANG's BT pcb? I understand it's not on a daughter board so how is the fit when not using BT and using the USB-C connector instead.
Reeeally interested in that white CA66, even though I already have the luxurious dark red since last round. :cool:
I'm looking for people's opinions:
I'm unsure whether to buy the black or white case.
If money was no object I would buy the black case and buy SA troubled minds r2, but that's probably a bit much..
I have SA Carbon but I'm missing the modifiers extension so unless I can find it on mechmarket (unlikely) I may not be able to use it..
I'm thinking the easiest option might be to buy the white case and pick up a set of DSA Honeywell caps.
Has anyone seen photos of DSA profile caps on the CA66?
If they look alright I will get a white case, otherwise I'll get a black one and keep my eyes open for something in SA profile..
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I bought in a few days ago and want to add a brass plate to the order. Is it possible to bundle this shipping with the rest of the board so i don't have to pay additional post?
I decided on the white in the end, I'm hoping I can either find the missing keys for my SA Carbon set, or sell them and look for a set of Honeywell keys that have the correct size mods. YEEET!I'm looking for people's opinions:
I'm unsure whether to buy the black or white case.
If money was no object I would buy the black case and buy SA troubled minds r2, but that's probably a bit much..
I have SA Carbon but I'm missing the modifiers extension so unless I can find it on mechmarket (unlikely) I may not be able to use it..
I'm thinking the easiest option might be to buy the white case and pick up a set of DSA Honeywell caps.
Has anyone seen photos of DSA profile caps on the CA66?
If they look alright I will get a white case, otherwise I'll get a black one and keep my eyes open for something in SA profile..
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The white case is much more unique and would pair nicely with many sets. That gets my vote!
When does the group but end, ie. Is Sept 5th included? And which time zone? I am traveling and will be returning sometime on the 4th... Central US time. Want to make sure I don't miss this GB.Why not just join now rather than chance it?
When does the group but end, ie. Is Sept 5th included? And which time zone? I am traveling and will be returning sometime on the 4th... Central US time. Want to make sure I don't miss this GB.
When does the group but end, ie. Is Sept 5th included? And which time zone? I am traveling and will be returning sometime on the 4th... Central US time. Want to make sure I don't miss this GB.Why not just join now rather than chance it?
I apologize if this has been answered before, but will it be possible to git an alps plate in place of the default plate at no extra cost? I don't need two :thumb:
Thanks
Would this battery: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite (https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite) work and do I need anything else like a connector? If I need a connector what should I look for?
When ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
Can you post a pic of the gold anodized alu plate? Preferably next to a brass plate so I can see how different they are.Seconded.
I apologize if this has been answered before, but will it be possible to git an alps plate in place of the default plate at no extra cost? I don't need two :thumb:
Thanks
Sorry to say no.Would this battery: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite (https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite) work and do I need anything else like a connector? If I need a connector what should I look for?
You'll need a connector if you want to plug in/out easily. The size will be 1.25mm, 2 pin.
Or you can just remove the receptacle on PCB and solder wires in holes instead.When ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
We already realized we missed the color choosing parts for both plates.
It's a bit complicate for setting up the page and we don't think change it during GB period is a good idea.
So we'll send emails to order owners for checking everyone's choice of colors.
Sorry for causing any inconvenience.
When ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
I just realized I forgot to grab an extra BT pcb with my order (#1134), would there be a way to add one in?
Also will the extra parts stop sale on Sep 5 as well?
How different is the gold alu plate from the brass plate? Any pictures?
Is that the grey blue color?How different is the gold alu plate from the brass plate? Any pictures?
Sorry for missing to reply your question.
Very much different. Gold alu plate is sandblasted, and brass will be mirror-like.
(Attachment Link)
Is that the grey blue color?How different is the gold alu plate from the brass plate? Any pictures?
Sorry for missing to reply your question.
Very much different. Gold alu plate is sandblasted, and brass will be mirror-like.
(Attachment Link)
I could not resist. Ordered one CA66 in Grey with Titanium Badge and BT PCB....
With these sets do you think I am right?
My sets:
- SA Oblivion
- SA Calm Depths (whenever it appears on sight)
- SA 1965
- SA Pulse
- SA Jukebox
- SA Modern Selectric Black
- SA Hyperfuse
- SA Cabon
- SA Solarized Dark
White is heavy on me also... very nice also.
Similar I have a Black Exent, and Norbaforce is Grey also... I know I tend to grey colours in my keyboards... but I saw Oblivion in a Grey one with Ti badge and WOW!
Also, why buying anymore PCB or plates? From my other builds those tend to be left in boxes with nothing to say... may be I miss something?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Ordered <3
Sadly that i'm think about case color again
You guy have any image compare gray and black, in the same picture
:?
I could not resist. Ordered one CA66 in Grey with Titanium Badge and BT PCB....
With these sets do you think I am right?
My sets:
- SA Oblivion
- SA Calm Depths (whenever it appears on sight)
- SA 1965
- SA Pulse
- SA Jukebox
- SA Modern Selectric Black
- SA Hyperfuse
- SA Cabon
- SA Solarized Dark
White is heavy on me also... very nice also.
Similar I have a Black Exent, and Norbaforce is Grey also... I know I tend to grey colours in my keyboards... but I saw Oblivion in a Grey one with Ti badge and WOW!
Also, why buying anymore PCB or plates? From my other builds those tend to be left in boxes with nothing to say... may be I miss something?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Nice, seems like the gold alu is more muted. Hmm what time on Sep 5th does the GB close by the way?How different is the gold alu plate from the brass plate? Any pictures?
Sorry for missing to reply your question.
Very much different. Gold alu plate is sandblasted, and brass will be mirror-like.
(Attachment Link)
you miss my question :(QuoteOrdered <3
Sadly that i'm think about case color again
You guy have any image compare gray and black, in the same picture
:?
Nice, seems like the gold alu is more muted. Hmm what time on Sep 5th does the GB close by the way?How different is the gold alu plate from the brass plate? Any pictures?
Sorry for missing to reply your question.
Very much different. Gold alu plate is sandblasted, and brass will be mirror-like.
(Attachment Link)
I could not resist. Ordered one CA66 in Grey with Titanium Badge and BT PCB....
With these sets do you think I am right?
My sets:
- SA Oblivion
- SA Calm Depths (whenever it appears on sight)
- SA 1965
- SA Pulse
- SA Jukebox
- SA Modern Selectric Black
- SA Hyperfuse
- SA Cabon
- SA Solarized Dark
White is heavy on me also... very nice also.
Similar I have a Black Exent, and Norbaforce is Grey also... I know I tend to grey colours in my keyboards... but I saw Oblivion in a Grey one with Ti badge and WOW!
Also, why buying anymore PCB or plates? From my other builds those tend to be left in boxes with nothing to say... may be I miss something?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Grey or white would work with most of those sets but I think grey would win out. Jukebox would benefit most from white but most of the rest would either look better with grey or equally as good.
Love my grey CA66 from the last round, and just placed an order for a white CA66 from this one! Looking forward to pairing it with Symbiosis (and Godspeed)! :D
Anyone else having a hell of a time choosing which color? So torn between Black and White that I am considering splitting the difference and going for Grey. Help!What kits are you planning on using?
Anyone else having a hell of a time choosing which color? So torn between Black and White that I am considering splitting the difference and going for Grey. Help!What kits are you planning on using?
Anyone else having a hell of a time choosing which color? So torn between Black and White that I am considering splitting the difference and going for Grey. Help!What kits are you planning on using?
The only notable kit I have coming is the GMK Space Cadet, but I wasn't planning on putting that on the CA66. I really like SA Oblivion so I'm looking for something with muted off-white or grey in the same vein. I have been toying around with Miami Nights since last night in my head :cool:
thinking of getting dark grey, but asking anyway. which color goes with modern dolch? /dev/tty beige/rgb?
edit: is this dark grey?
https://i.imgur.com/7WY5HqU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1Hmii7X.jpg
Love my grey CA66 from the last round, and just placed an order for a white CA66 from this one! Looking forward to pairing it with Symbiosis (and Godspeed)! :D
Anyone else having a hell of a time choosing which color? So torn between Black and White that I am considering splitting the difference and going for Grey. Help!What kits are you planning on using?
The only notable kit I have coming is the GMK Space Cadet, but I wasn't planning on putting that on the CA66. I really like SA Oblivion so I'm looking for something with muted off-white or grey in the same vein. I have been toying around with Miami Nights since last night in my head :cool:
Ordered! Had to wait a while because of monies issue, but finally I'm in. Yay!
thinking of getting dark grey, but asking anyway. which color goes with modern dolch? /dev/tty beige/rgb?
edit: is this dark grey?
https://i.imgur.com/7WY5HqU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1Hmii7X.jpg
They’re just renders but looks like grey to me. I’d also recommend grey based on your sets.
order in. dark grey/red/BT WKL + brass plate. was a tough decision between hhkb and wkl, but in the end, the extra key won.
Hey PlayKeyb! I sent you a message. Kindly check your email :D Thank you!
The default pcb is compatible with the brass plate from last round, right?
The default pcb is compatible with the brass plate from last round, right?
Yes they do. ;D
The default pcb is compatible with the brass plate from last round, right?
Yes they do. ;D
Great! I ordered two. Just in case my soldering messes something up. ;D
Could you give a breakdown of the major differences between this pcb compared to the previous round? I've picked up bits and pieces in the threads here and there, but it'd be really nice to just see a list. :)
Will the BT plate .dwg files be made available after the buy is over?Yes, it is
Last day to join guys!
Last day to join guys!
What time does the GB end? Was gonna make an order during work today, but of course I forget my wallet at home :facepalm:
Will the BT plate .dwg files be made available after the buy is over?Yes, it is
He say that in these previous page
Last day to join guys!
We refunded some extra parts orders which chose the wrong shipping method.
Please help us check you email and account status.
If you are still fancy getting these parts, place a new order with choosing DHL Express for shipping.
We appreciate it. :thumb:
When ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
Here mateWhen ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
We already realized we missed the color choosing parts for both plates.
It's a bit complicate for setting up the page and we don't think change it during GB period is a good idea.
So we'll send emails to order owners for checking everyone's choice of colors.
Sorry for causing any inconvenience. :(
Last day to join guys!
What time does the GB end? Was gonna make an order during work today, but of course I forget my wallet at home :facepalm:
23:59:59 PDT. :))
I'm completely torn on color choice. The red looks the best on it's own, but I've never seen it with keycaps on it that do it justice (maybe 9009). The silver is a classic choice and would go with anything, but it may be boring. White is awesome and looks close to the original PCJr board, but I have a few white boards lined up. Dark gray is always nice. GAAAAAAAAA. I can't decide.The red is really really dark. You can check out NK's YouTube channel he did a build with it last week I believe. I went with white in the end cos I was gonna match it with Metaverse and black didn't seem to go too well with the brass plate.
I wish I could see Muted on the blue and gray cases and see Honeywell on the white. Also wonder what ePBT slate will look like on gray.
Does anyone know if the plate allows the switch top to be opened without desoldering?No
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Thanks for answering!Does anyone know if the plate allows the switch top to be opened without desoldering?No
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Plate is not allow open top switch
You can wait till GB ended, they'll public their plate file then you modified it then cut your own plate
I'm completely torn on color choice. The red looks the best on it's own, but I've never seen it with keycaps on it that do it justice (maybe 9009). The silver is a classic choice and would go with anything, but it may be boring. White is awesome and looks close to the original PCJr board, but I have a few white boards lined up. Dark gray is always nice. GAAAAAAAAA. I can't decide.
I wish I could see Muted on the blue and gray cases and see Honeywell on the white. Also wonder what ePBT slate will look like on gray.
I'm completely torn on color choice. The red looks the best on it's own, but I've never seen it with keycaps on it that do it justice (maybe 9009). The silver is a classic choice and would go with anything, but it may be boring. White is awesome and looks close to the original PCJr board, but I have a few white boards lined up. Dark gray is always nice. GAAAAAAAAA. I can't decide.
I wish I could see Muted on the blue and gray cases and see Honeywell on the white. Also wonder what ePBT slate will look like on gray.
Dark red is my favorite, but I also really like blue-gray and olive green options. Chocolate brown was going to be nice too but didn't make it. Personally I prefer the darker versions of the keyboard to silver/white. Dark red/bordeaux makes me think of my favorite fountain pen inks like Diamine Syrah and Colorverse Dark Energy.
WTB black > grey > silver HHKB BLE version if anyone is willing to part ways..
I just finished converting an old telephone cord into a USB cable for use with the dark red CA66. I hope the colours turn out!
(Attachment Link)
Why didn't you join the GB?WTB black > grey > silver HHKB BLE version if anyone is willing to part ways..
I just finished converting an old telephone cord into a USB cable for use with the dark red CA66. I hope the colours turn out!
(Attachment Link)
I saw in the IC thread that bright dip anodizing was being considered as a potential option - can we request that or will all boards be matte? I ordered a silver but if glossier silver is possible would be happy to take that up.
Hi guys!
We are now sorting out orders.
Please help us check your email if you purchased extra alu plates and alps plates.
We've sent an email for confirming your choices.
And some orders didn't leave case version choice in it, these email address will receive confirmation email as well.
If you have reply the email, please bear with us.
We'll make an online order list and send emails to everyone to see if your order is correct.
Thanks! :thumb:
Hi guys!
We are now sorting out orders.
Please help us check your email if you purchased extra alu plates and alps plates.
We've sent an email for confirming your choices.
And some orders didn't leave case version choice in it, these email address will receive confirmation email as well.
If you have reply the email, please bear with us.
We'll make an online order list and send emails to everyone to see if your order is correct.
Thanks! :thumb:
Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
Pretty sure the idea with group buys is that the order is made once the group buy closes. So you will probably have to look on r/mm for one.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
If you have spots open up, will we have a chance to get in? I talked myself out of joining and now I regret it. lol
Pretty sure the idea with group buys is that the order is made once the group buy closes. So you will probably have to look on r/mm for one.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
If you have spots open up, will we have a chance to get in? I talked myself out of joining and now I regret it. lol
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Pretty sure the idea with group buys is that the order is made once the group buy closes. So you will probably have to look on r/mm for one.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
If you have spots open up, will we have a chance to get in? I talked myself out of joining and now I regret it. lol
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yes, but sometimes people who joined need the money after they've paid and will sell their spot to someone who missed out.
Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
I got an email asking whether I wanted WKL vs HHKB for the case version, so that might be what was referred to?Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
Hmm maybe. I do have a purchase confirmation email and PayPal receipt but no direct communication with OP.I got an email asking whether I wanted WKL vs HHKB for the case version, so that might be what was referred to?Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Hmm maybe. I do have a purchase confirmation email and PayPal receipt but no direct communication with OP.I got an email asking whether I wanted WKL vs HHKB for the case version, so that might be what was referred to?Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Hmm maybe. I do have a purchase confirmation email and PayPal receipt but no direct communication with OP.I got an email asking whether I wanted WKL vs HHKB for the case version, so that might be what was referred to?Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Some people forgot to choose the case version. Now they are all confirmed. :thumb:
We'll be moving to machining process soon once the factory are free to go.
There are still 3 orders haven't reply the mail of extra alu plate color.
Please confirm them with us soon! ;)
Is it too late to add one more brass plate to my order?Hmm maybe. I do have a purchase confirmation email and PayPal receipt but no direct communication with OP.I got an email asking whether I wanted WKL vs HHKB for the case version, so that might be what was referred to?Same. Nothing here.Hi everyone.
We've sent out all choice confirmation mails to pending choices order owners.
Please help us check your email, even the spam folder.
Reply asap for letting us move to the next step - material ordering. :thumb:
I did not get any confirmation mail for my order either. :/
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Some people forgot to choose the case version. Now they are all confirmed. :thumb:
We'll be moving to machining process soon once the factory are free to go.
There are still 3 orders haven't reply the mail of extra alu plate color.
Please confirm them with us soon! ;)
Guys. Please check your email for order confirmation mail. :thumb:I can't remember but do we have a choice in aluminum plates colors or is it gold by default?
If you are talking about the extra, then no. You should have received an email from them to clarify. Otherwise, you should already have selected it in the options.Guys. Please check your email for order confirmation mail. :thumb:I can't remember but do we have a choice in aluminum plates colors or is it gold by default?
Thanks. I think I'm good then.If you are talking about the extra, then no. You should have received an email from them to clarify. Otherwise, you should already have selected it in the options.Guys. Please check your email for order confirmation mail. :thumb:I can't remember but do we have a choice in aluminum plates colors or is it gold by default?
You should have received an email with a link to a google spreadsheet from them. Crosscheck your order to ensure that everything is in order. If not, do contact them to clear things up.Thanks. I think I'm good then.If you are talking about the extra, then no. You should have received an email from them to clarify. Otherwise, you should already have selected it in the options.Guys. Please check your email for order confirmation mail. :thumb:I can't remember but do we have a choice in aluminum plates colors or is it gold by default?
Yup just saw the email and everything looks good. Thanks!You should have received an email with a link to a google spreadsheet from them. Crosscheck your order to ensure that everything is in order. If not, do contact them to clear things up.Thanks. I think I'm good then.If you are talking about the extra, then no. You should have received an email from them to clarify. Otherwise, you should already have selected it in the options.Guys. Please check your email for order confirmation mail. :thumb:I can't remember but do we have a choice in aluminum plates colors or is it gold by default?
I just want to say whoever is responding to the chat messages on the Play keyboard website is doing a fantastic job! I have made a number of additions to my order and they have been super helpful
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I see the bt pcb is still in stock on the site, is it possible to add one to my order so I can bundle shipping with the rest of my board? Sorry for any trouble this causes.
Will there be a round 3? I just discovered this :( was so keen on alps and Bluetooth compatibility.
Any plans to do hot swap for next group buy? Would be very interested.
any planned extras?
any planned extras?
Might be!
Please follow out instagram for updates. :D
I've heard a couple comments while watching build streams that the V2 CA66 is going to have the light strip elevated to help stop the light bleed into the surrounding keys. I can't find documentation of this anywhere; is it true?
I've heard a couple comments while watching build streams that the V2 CA66 is going to have the light strip elevated to help stop the light bleed into the surrounding keys. I can't find documentation of this anywhere; is it true?
Yes, Play Keyboards stated this during the IC. The Bluetooth pcb doesn’t have the elevated led strip but the wired one does!
I've heard a couple comments while watching build streams that the V2 CA66 is going to have the light strip elevated to help stop the light bleed into the surrounding keys. I can't find documentation of this anywhere; is it true?
Yes, Play Keyboards stated this during the IC. The Bluetooth pcb doesn’t have the elevated led strip but the wired one does!
So the BT pcb will leak light compared to the non bt-pcb?I've heard a couple comments while watching build streams that the V2 CA66 is going to have the light strip elevated to help stop the light bleed into the surrounding keys. I can't find documentation of this anywhere; is it true?
Yes, Play Keyboards stated this during the IC. The Bluetooth pcb doesn’t have the elevated led strip but the wired one does!
So the BT pcb will leak light compared to the non bt-pcb?I've heard a couple comments while watching build streams that the V2 CA66 is going to have the light strip elevated to help stop the light bleed into the surrounding keys. I can't find documentation of this anywhere; is it true?
Yes, Play Keyboards stated this during the IC. The Bluetooth pcb doesn’t have the elevated led strip but the wired one does!
Is there any pictures that show how big the difference is?
Planning to sell my spot if anyone's interested. Possibly a change of plan on my side. BT Pcb, alu plate, white case color, HHKB layout. Dm me!
i am looking for extra kits :(PCBs and plates or case?
looking for an extra PCB and alps plate here too...I didn't get any Alps plates but depending on which one I decide to keep (bt/wired) I will probably have a spare PCB and plate to let go.
looking for an extra PCB and alps plate here too...I didn't get any Alps plates but depending on which one I decide to keep (bt/wired) I will probably have a spare PCB and plate to let go.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
looking for an extra PCB and alps plate here too...I didn't get any Alps plates but depending on which one I decide to keep (bt/wired) I will probably have a spare PCB and plate to let go.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Pretty sure the BT pcb model is Alps compatible and I think the plates are too
****. I guess I am looking for a Alps plate. If anyone has a spare or wants to sell, please pm me. Thanks. I am open to trade a brass plate for your alu alps plate.looking for an extra PCB and alps plate here too...I didn't get any Alps plates but depending on which one I decide to keep (bt/wired) I will probably have a spare PCB and plate to let go.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Pretty sure the BT pcb model is Alps compatible and I think the plates are too
Huh, I could've sworn it was the stock PCB that was Alps compatible, guess I was wrong. Going to be looking for a second BT PCB now, I guess.
If the plates weren't Alps or MX specific, why would an Alps plate have been an option? And why would both an MX and an Alps plate been shown as separate in the OP?
So, has anyone bought their battery yet? I'm hoping to not have to solder one in case the battery goes bad. Any suggestions?
So, has anyone bought their battery yet? I'm hoping to not have to solder one in case the battery goes bad. Any suggestions?
I was planning on ordering one after I get dimensions of the available space . . I'm guessing you should be able to fit upwards of 3000 mAh using a long flat rectangular cell.
But I'm not positive how the circuit works. USB charging when plugged in, but how much current? - is the charging circuit specific for LiPo chemistry? (3.6-4.2V)
I would like to use a Li-Ion cell (3.2-4.2V) as that would make overcharging/overdischarging a lot less explosive (did I hear correctly that the LED bar does voltage monitoring?) and also fit a couple more mAh.
For connecting, it should be up to your preference . . I will probably use a connector though.
So, has anyone bought their battery yet? I'm hoping to not have to solder one in case the battery goes bad. Any suggestions?
I was planning on ordering one after I get dimensions of the available space . . I'm guessing you should be able to fit upwards of 3000 mAh using a long flat rectangular cell.
But I'm not positive how the circuit works. USB charging when plugged in, but how much current? - is the charging circuit specific for LiPo chemistry? (3.6-4.2V)
I would like to use a Li-Ion cell (3.2-4.2V) as that would make overcharging/overdischarging a lot less explosive (did I hear correctly that the LED bar does voltage monitoring?) and also fit a couple more mAh.
For connecting, it should be up to your preference . . I will probably use a connector though.
I apologize if this has been answered before, but will it be possible to git an alps plate in place of the default plate at no extra cost? I don't need two :thumb:
Thanks
Sorry to say no. :-XWould this battery: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite (https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32820875729.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32820875729&aff_trace_key=6a61fd7838f946c4bc418407ca8645d1-1495827122980-06676-F233fuf&aff_short_key=F233fuf&aff_platform=msite) work and do I need anything else like a connector? If I need a connector what should I look for?
You'll need a connector if you want to plug in/out easily. The size will be 1.25mm, 2 pin.
Or you can just remove the receptacle on PCB and solder wires in holes instead.When ordering spare parts how would we select colors for aluminum plates (both regular and alps)? There isn’t an option to select plate colors. Should we make a note somewhere?
We already realized we missed the color choosing parts for both plates.
It's a bit complicate for setting up the page and we don't think change it during GB period is a good idea.
So we'll send emails to order owners for checking everyone's choice of colors.
Sorry for causing any inconvenience. :(
Alright, thanks for the help. I actually just found one with the connector included:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer/dp/B0798K2Y8F/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1543431186&sr=8-14&keywords=3.7v+jst+1.5mm
There're larger ones, but I'm a little worried about it fitting:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-3000mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer/dp/B0798D2DDJ/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1543431953&sr=8-1&keywords=3.7v+jst+1.5mm+3000mAh
The image from the IC post looks like the measurements are somewhere around 150mm x 50mm. Still not sure on the depth though.
Alright, thanks for the help. I actually just found one with the connector included:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer/dp/B0798K2Y8F/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1543431186&sr=8-14&keywords=3.7v+jst+1.5mm
There're larger ones, but I'm a little worried about it fitting:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-3000mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer/dp/B0798D2DDJ/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1543431953&sr=8-1&keywords=3.7v+jst+1.5mm+3000mAh
The image from the IC post looks like the measurements are somewhere around 150mm x 50mm. Still not sure on the depth though.
There should be enough room for either of those batteries. I just took some rough measurements with a ruler, but either one should fit. The only thing I would be concerned with would be the switch pins.
Since you wouldn’t want them to puncture the battery, personally I would find the optimal location for the battery, mark it out on the board, and then of the switches that would be under the battery, I would clip the pins of those switches level with the pcb before soldering them, then use double sided tape to attach the batter to the bottom plate so it stays in place.
We need a round 3, so sad I missed out. :(According to OP there won't be one, but there are regularly ones that are for sale on r/mechmarket
This still shipping in a week? Lol
Hi guys. We just finished CNC process, and ready to move to anodizing phase.
This round wasn't as smooth as last one. We spent some time dealing with them.
Photos will be updated and posted in here like last time to let you guys know what's happening. :thumb:
Hi guys. We just finished CNC process, and ready to move to anodizing phase.
This round wasn't as smooth as last one. We spent some time dealing with them.
Photos will be updated and posted in here like last time to let you guys know what's happening. :thumb:
Looking forward to photos of the progress--those are always fun. Do you mean "not as smooth" as in there were issues with QC? Hopefully that's sorted.
Sorry if I missed it, but are the plate files available anywhere? I'm thinking about getting one of these: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=98567.0
TWO round 1 PCBs have crapped out on me now. Have these issues been addressed at all for the round 2 PCBs? If so, I'll try to buy one aftermarket. If not, I hope people with Round 2 spots don't experience this same issue.
So far I have wasted a bunch of money and time on a non-functioning, pretty brick.
I'll do that. Thanks for the suggestion.TWO round 1 PCBs have crapped out on me now. Have these issues been addressed at all for the round 2 PCBs? If so, I'll try to buy one aftermarket. If not, I hope people with Round 2 spots don't experience this same issue.
So far I have wasted a bunch of money and time on a non-functioning, pretty brick.
I had the same issues, two round one PCBs that eventually died. Messaged PlayKeyboardTW about it and he said they found the problem and have fixed it for round 2. I'd message him about your issues, he was very responsive and is including a replacement in my R2 order and may be able to help you out.
Default PCB updates here. We put some tricks in it. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
We made 4 keys on the right side, and WKL left Control positions hot-swappable for you guys to play with.
Some SMD white LED will also be provided as well for all of you.
Case photos update will come soon. :thumb:
Default PCB updates here. We put some tricks in it. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
We made 4 keys on the right side, and WKL left Control positions hot-swappable for you guys to play with.
Some SMD white LED will also be provided as well for all of you.
Case photos update will come soon. :thumb:
Sounds like the cases might be done soonish. Is there a new ship date estimate?
Thanks!
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Okay, so if I want a white or dark gray winkeyless board I just send it through email?
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Do you also have any extra brass plates or PCBs available?
I'm looking for an Alps plate, if there are extras.Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Do you also have any extra brass plates or PCBs available?
Would like to know this also.
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Any estimate on the new shipping time?
Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Do you also have any extra brass plates or PCBs available?
Do you mean finished 15-20th of January?Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Any estimate on the new shipping time?
The anodizing is expected to be finished around 15th to 20th.
We are catching up to ship all stuffs out before Chinese New Year. :thumb:Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Do you also have any extra brass plates or PCBs available?
No extra parts available before all GB orders are out. We will put them in the site after every GB participants get there items.
Do you mean finished 15-20th of January?Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Any estimate on the new shipping time?
The anodizing is expected to be finished around 15th to 20th.
We are catching up to ship all stuffs out before Chinese New Year. :thumb:Hi guys,
We are now in anodizing phase. And we've got some extra WKL version (no HHKB version) CA66 available for purchasing if someone missed the GB.
You can choose the color yourself as well.
The deadline is on 12th, Saturday.
Please contact us via -
Store: https://play-keyboard.store/
Mail: yj7272098@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Do you also have any extra brass plates or PCBs available?
No extra parts available before all GB orders are out. We will put them in the site after every GB participants get there items.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Some pics to show. Will keep updating. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Some pics to show. Will keep updating. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Some pics to show. Will keep updating. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I know! That color looks so good!Some pics to show. Will keep updating. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Kinda wishing I went for what looks like dark red :eek:
I understand if you customized the PCB in some way to make it possible for those 4 keys, but would I be able to add Kailh style hot swap sockets to rest of the board? Is it compatible?
I understand if you customized the PCB in some way to make it possible for those 4 keys, but would I be able to add Kailh style hot swap sockets to rest of the board? Is it compatible?
No. The Kailh hotswap sockets require a special footprint with pads and cutouts in different places than a regular cherry footprint. If it's not there from the start it's not possible to add them later.
Does anyone know if there is a profile for the CA66 on QMK configurator? I couldn't seem to find one. Edit: Never mind I found it under PlayKeyboardCa66 or something like that.
Hi guys.
As Chinese New Year is approaching. There are many vendors of other industries trying to finish their stuffs before Chinese New Year as we do.
So it's quite a mess in the factory right now.
By estimating the situation, we might able to finish all the works before the date.
But won't have time to do the packing after Chinese New Year holidays. :(
We sincerely apologize for this, and will be heading back to work as soon as holidays are over.
Thanks for understanding of all of you. :)
Hi!
I just got a CA66 from Round 1, and I fear the PCB may have bricked after only a few days of use...
@PlayKeyboard, since I know this was a recurring issue with Round1, did you find a solution? Are these issues fixed for Round 2?
See people discussing R1 issues here, on the last page : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93542.900
Are there any extra PCBs from Round 2 I might purchase privately to replace the dead one?
This is really disappointing to me, as the CA66 is (was) my endgame, and it died after barely a few hours of use....
I'm looking forward to hearing from you on this issue.
Hi!
I just got a CA66 from Round 1, and I fear the PCB may have bricked after only a few days of use...
@PlayKeyboard, since I know this was a recurring issue with Round1, did you find a solution? Are these issues fixed for Round 2?
See people discussing R1 issues here, on the last page : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93542.900
Are there any extra PCBs from Round 2 I might purchase privately to replace the dead one?
This is really disappointing to me, as the CA66 is (was) my endgame, and it died after barely a few hours of use....
I'm looking forward to hearing from you on this issue.
+1 for the pcb issues. 4 keys on the right stopped working along with some other on the top row. It was fine for over 4 months, which is why i'm surprised.
I purchased a BT PCB, but I can't be in doubt if it still has the same issues.
Is the PCB compatible with screw in Stabilizers?
is there a chance to add extras to our GB order before it ships? wanna get my hands on a brass plate
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
BT PCB done.
We will be back to the factory to finish the rest of anodizing stuff on 20th. :thumb:
Edit: just noticed there’s no USB connector on the PCB. Is that added later?
Edit: just noticed there’s no USB connector on the PCB. Is that added later?
If I recall correctly, the USB port is on a daughterboard mounted separately in the case. You might be able to find pictures of this from the previous GB.
Is there anything I can do to prevent my R1 PCB from dying? Kind of hesitant to build it without knowing the problem.I'm also curious as to whether the issue has been isolated and changes have been made to the R2 PCB..
Is there anything I can do to prevent my R1 PCB from dying? Kind of hesitant to build it without knowing the problem.I'm also curious as to whether the issue has been isolated and changes have been made to the R2 PCB..
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
@PlayKeyboardTWI'd like this too since I forgot to order one
Is it still possible to buy an extra ALPS plate? If not can you share the plate file and I can get it cut. I recently got some really clean Blue Alps and I think the CA66 will be a good board for the switches.
@PlayKeyboardTWI'd like this too since I forgot to order one
Is it still possible to buy an extra ALPS plate? If not can you share the plate file and I can get it cut. I recently got some really clean Blue Alps and I think the CA66 will be a good board for the switches.
Does anyone know if there will be any spares available?There are WKL kits available, unless the extras all sold...
I am not sure how long anodizing takes but if they stsrted doing that on the 20th then I imagine it takes a couple weeks at most to do that. Then it needs to be shipped after QC so I am thinking another 3 - 4 weeks until it is our hands? Does that sound right?I was under the impression ano was almost completed before cny. Could be mistaken though.
I am not sure how long anodizing takes but if they stsrted doing that on the 20th then I imagine it takes a couple weeks at most to do that. Then it needs to be shipped after QC so I am thinking another 3 - 4 weeks until it is our hands? Does that sound right?I was under the impression ano was almost completed before cny. Could be mistaken though.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Is there anything I can do to prevent my R1 PCB from dying? Kind of hesitant to build it without knowing the problem.I'm also curious as to whether the issue has been isolated and changes have been made to the R2 PCB..
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
They’ve said they found the problem and have corrected it in the R2 pcbs, but haven’t said what the problem actually was.
I got the following response:Ohhhh
"Hi there!
We were just back to the factory to take care the rest of the work
so we probably can ship orders out before March 15th."
no idea how selling spots work.. but im trying to change my shipping address..That's easy. Send a PM with your new address and your order number to PlayKeyboardTW
no idea how selling spots work.. but im trying to change my shipping address..That's easy. Send a PM with your new address and your order number to PlayKeyboardTW
Ok. They should get back to you soon enough. Must stop be on vacationno idea how selling spots work.. but im trying to change my shipping address..That's easy. Send a PM with your new address and your order number to PlayKeyboardTW
I did, as well as an email. no response so far.
I got the following response:
"Hi there!
We were just back to the factory to take care the rest of the work
so we probably can ship orders out before March 15th."
Hi guys! A quick updates here.
Really sorry that we can't reply all messages back immediately.
This time was kind of different from last round (like there's a Chinese New Year holiday period in the middle). Some private issues we can't tell you guys as well.
There are some new projects on going and prototypes are done.
In conclusion, we tried to do to many things at the same time. :(
Lots of guys contacting us by emails and via Facebook messages.
We now only reply those who want to change shipping addresses, and asking for situations.
Since too many people ask if there's any extra kits for purchasing, we kinda want to handle all GB orders first.
And that will be fair enough for guys joined the GB from the very start.
As we found we were lacking of some HHKB-like version cases. We just finished their CNC process and are now polishing, sandblasting them.
Also packaging is arrived.
(Attachment Link)
As we heading back to anodizing to finish the rest of work, of course more pics you want to see will be posted here and instagram. :thumb:
Sorry and thanks for all the patience, support from all of you. ;D
Hi guys! A quick updates here.
Really sorry that we can't reply all messages back immediately.
This time was kind of different from last round (like there's a Chinese New Year holiday period in the middle). Some private issues we can't tell you guys as well.
There are some new projects on going and prototypes are done.
In conclusion, we tried to do to many things at the same time. :(
Lots of guys contacting us by emails and via Facebook messages.
We now only reply those who want to change shipping addresses, and asking for situations.
Since too many people ask if there's any extra kits for purchasing, we kinda want to handle all GB orders first.
And that will be fair enough for guys joined the GB from the very start.
As we found we were lacking of some HHKB-like version cases. We just finished their CNC process and are now polishing, sandblasting them.
Also packaging is arrived.
(Attachment Link)
As we heading back to anodizing to finish the rest of work, of course more pics you want to see will be posted here and instagram. :thumb:
Sorry and thanks for all the patience, support from all of you. ;D
Hi guys! A quick updates here.Thanks for the update! I'm really looking forward to seeing the white cases!
Really sorry that we can't reply all messages back immediately.
This time was kind of different from last round (like there's a Chinese New Year holiday period in the middle). Some private issues we can't tell you guys as well.
There are some new projects on going and prototypes are done.
In conclusion, we tried to do to many things at the same time. :(
Lots of guys contacting us by emails and via Facebook messages.
We now only reply those who want to change shipping addresses, and asking for situations.
Since too many people ask if there's any extra kits for purchasing, we kinda want to handle all GB orders first.
And that will be fair enough for guys joined the GB from the very start.
As we found we were lacking of some HHKB-like version cases. We just finished their CNC process and are now polishing, sandblasting them.
Also packaging is arrived.
(Attachment Link)
As we heading back to anodizing to finish the rest of work, of course more pics you want to see will be posted here and instagram. :thumb:
Sorry and thanks for all the patience, support from all of you. ;D
Our mate there in the factory said that we can make it before the end of this month.
Good to hear that. ;)
Does anyone have a slot they'd want to sell?
I sold my slot a few months ago but after using other boards realized I'd love to get this board back.
Message me through here or reddit.
Thanks!
It's been stated there will some extras after the GB order are sent out.
Would it be possible to bundle those extras to our GB order? I'd like an additional brass plate, but it seems silly to pay for shipping twice.
Most cases are done in the anodizing place. Now moves them back to the factory to install helicoil inserts.
Then we will be all good to pack them.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
We know all you guys would like to see how they look inside newspaper.
We will take some photos when they are ready to be shown later. :thumb:
If anyone is having second thoughts or want to sell their slot, please message me! Thanks :)Try PM'ing playkeyboard, there might be spare wkl cases after all the GB joiners stuff is sent
Most cases are done in the anodizing place. Now moves them back to the factory to install helicoil inserts.
Most cases are done in the anodizing place. Now moves them back to the factory to install helicoil inserts.
Why are helicoil inserts being installed? are the threads not being cut into the aluminum?
Most cases are done in the anodizing place. Now moves them back to the factory to install helicoil inserts.
Why are helicoil inserts being installed? are the threads not being cut into the aluminum?
Nope. It was like that for the first round, too. I imagine they're a lot more robust than just threading into the case.
Looking to sell my gb spot, dark red hhkb / bluetooth / gold alu & brass plate :)PM
Haven't heard any updates about the BT PCB, and was wondering if all orders would ship out at the same time, or will orders with a bluetooth pcb be delayed? Keep up the good work!Surely they will ship at the same time hopefully @PlayKeyboardTW can confirm
Haven't heard any updates about the BT PCB, and was wondering if all orders would ship out at the same time, or will orders with a bluetooth pcb be delayed? Keep up the good work!Surely they will ship at the same time hopefully @PlayKeyboardTW can confirm
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
So how long are these steps going to take?They said they are aiming to ship out by the end of the month. So more pics should come before then.
When are the photos of the units without the newspaper coming?
I’m still hoping to find a WKL one from someone if they are interested in selling their spot. Thanks a lot!Did you pm playkeyboardtw?
I’m still hoping to find a WKL one from someone if they are interested in selling their spot. Thanks a lot!Did you pm playkeyboardtw?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Gotcha. Good luck mate!I’m still hoping to find a WKL one from someone if they are interested in selling their spot. Thanks a lot!Did you pm playkeyboardtw?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I spoke to him by email but there aren’t any extras available at this time.
There might be some after all GB purchasers receive theirs but I’d rather purchase a spot from someone who already has a guaranteed spot than hope to get lucky afterwards :)
any advice on battery for pcb bt?
KMK Labs.
Still no photos or anything?Same here. Hopefully we will see an update this weekend
I was hoping we would be getting them shipped out this week or next...
Hoping the new pcbs don't have the round1 issues
I wish someone would inform us of what the issue was so that way people with r1 pcb's might be able to stop the bricking before it occurs.I'm pretty sure someone discovered the issue. Have a look at the end of the R1 GB thread
Don't be so cynical. I messaged them on Facebook and they responded quick, they are still aiming for end of March / early April they said. They have much of it done it looks like. We'll get it pretty soon I think.I would have to agree. I'm pretty sure they just need to fit the screw threads into the cases, do a QC, then pack and send out
Really hoping for a round 3 :p
Really hoping for a round 3 :p
I think playkeyboardtw have said a few times in this thread that there will be no R3 :/
It's possible there might be a tiny bit of extra stock once this round gets shipped, but I wouldn't hold my breath -- probably your best bet is to keep an eye on mechmarket or this thread to see if anyone wants to sell their R2 spot.
Mostly just being tongue-in-cheek, although I do wish they would make more updates here rather than hearsay from Facebook messages. Still very much looking forward to it!
Hi guys, finally can get back to here to announce that we are ready to pack things up then shipping your CA66s out. ;)Yaaayyy!
Sorry there's lack of update this time. We hope we can talk everything to all of you, but it will be just unprofessional to let all of you know the inside situation.
And we promise that we will definitely change an anodizing factory for out future products. This one really pissed us off this time.
But we hope all of you to know that we just want to perfect everything that we are gonna send to your hands. ;)
Here are cases. We hope there will be time for us to take a quick photo for showing.
(Attachment Link)
And PCBs, accessories and boxes as well.
(Attachment Link)
As a reminder, please PM us asap through GH PM, Facebook message or emails if you want to change the shipping address. :thumb:
Thanks!
Mostly just being tongue-in-cheek, although I do wish they would make more updates here rather than hearsay from Facebook messages. Still very much looking forward to it!
Exactly, I just want at least some information about what is going on.
This is getting close to 4 months later then their initial timeline and their communication has become worse the longer this group buy has gone...
I just want to have a reasonable expectation of when I'll receive my new keyboard, but as it is right now, I'm completely in the dark about when we should expect them to be shipped and I don't think random Facebook replies are enough information right now.
None of that means the updates or lack of it should not be shared to the community.
I just decided to take initiative and tried to find information as best as I could. At the end of the day, I spoke directly with PlayKeyboards the other day, and also spoke with them today, but there's really no point in mentioning what was said because it would be called hearsay and random. There is proof of life that in fact stuff is being made to get this product out. Further, this is a group buy, and this is what you signed up for - there are disclaimers everywhere about the nature of these things. If you can't wait for it, there are many people who would love to pickup a spot in this.
Can you give us any outlook on when extras will be available? I really need a PCB for my round 1 CA66.Have you looked at the possible fix that was posted in the R1 GB thread? It requires a small amount of rewiring and re-programming, but I think that someone actually found the issue and there is a fix for it.
Can you give us any outlook on when extras will be available? I really need a PCB for my round 1 CA66.Have you looked at the possible fix that was posted in the R1 GB thread? It requires a small amount of rewiring and re-programming, but I think that someone actually found the issue and there is a fix for it.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I'd also like to know when I can order a replacement PCB for my CA66 from the last round.Fair call. Fingers crossed these get shipped out soon so you can get hold of a V2 pcb
Yes, I've read the other thread. There have been multiple posts about what might be wrong and about ways one might be able to get it to work. Reflow some solder joints on the diodes, reflow solder joints on the controller, flash it with qmk, rewire bad columns to different pins on the controller -- I haven't seen anything in there to convince me that the issue is well understood and fixable by end users. The fixes people have described sound like they're to correct different problems from pcb to pcb. An explanation from the seller about what was wrong (and it sounds like there may have been multiple issues), what has been changed, and a corrected PCB is what I'm looking for, not a neverending repair project.
Quick update here. Inserting coils for rest of cases.
(Attachment Link)
Quick update here. Inserting coils for rest of cases.
(Attachment Link)
All works almost done except the glowing bar.
This is the right size of sample.
(Attachment Link)
But the 3D printer shop sent us wrong size bars which exceeded the tolerance by 0.05mm.
(Attachment Link)
New bars are on it's way to us.
After installing them in to cases, we are good to ship orders. :thumb:
Oh my god these look gorgeous. There's one huge problem though....... I think I might love that green more than the colour I actually chose :))Same here! I went for the white option but really feel like the green is the winner here
Thanks for the update! This has me really hyped to get my board soon!
Sorry guys. Have been really devoted ourselves to finish all stuffs at the moment.
Showing some cases for you guys first. They might look different when exposing under different light sources.
Silver and white come up when we have a bit room to shoot them.
We got some PMs and messages recently. Please resend them again if we didn't answer in time.
Thanks!
Am I to interpret the thread subject as shipping will likely start sometime this week?? :eek:
Welp. After having intermittent hiccups for a few months now, it looks like my CA66 PCB from the last round just gave up the ghost as so many others have. (LED strip stuck on white, device not recognized by computer, etc.) Starting to feel like it's a matter of when, not if, with the previous round PCBs.
Do we know for certain that the issue has been resolved in the new round? I ordered a second CA66 in a different color, and am definitely concerned at this point.
They have said that they resolved the issue, but haven’t said what it was, what was done to fix it, or anything else about it, just that it was found and fixed for R2. How many grains of salt you’d like to take that with is up to you.
They have said that they resolved the issue, but haven’t said what it was, what was done to fix it, or anything else about it, just that it was found and fixed for R2. How many grains of salt you’d like to take that with is up to you.
Gotcha, thanks. And yeah.... would feel much better about the whole thing if there was some transparency about what the issue is and how they resolved it for R2. (The info is also vital for those who have working CA66s -- as we've seen, this issue can pop up after months of working just fine.)
I’ve had mine up and running since the last round, on the first pcb I used, and in use pretty much daily since then, and I’ve not had any issues (knock on wood). It’s even been desoldered and resoldered so I could change to split spacebars. Still no problems. And I know that there are others who haven’t had any issues either. That would lead me to believe it’s either an intermittent manufacturing error, or a user error that was unaccounted for in design.
Is it possible there are some bad solder joints that end up failing over time with flexing of the PCB when typing + just time/aging? Probably SMD components. For any poorly functioning/non-functioning PCBs that used to work, I would do a bunch of continuity checking for all the traces, including around the controller(s). Could be some diodes or resistors going bad, from some poor quality or defective batch.
Just here to put my obligatory "NE Update?" post. I would imagine they would have some sort of tracking for when the light bars would be arriving to them and they can easily say, "Plastic light bars have shipped and should be in 10 days, will update once we have received them". I don't know how long something like 3D printed light bars takes, but it still boggles my mind at the lack of updates on this.Assuming they are SLA or SLS printed, I'm fairly certain the manufacturing time would be under 3 days for ~150 pieces at a large scale printing place. Since they worded it as 'on the way', I am interested as to the hold up
FWIW Barry responded to a PM on 4/19 about a PCB issue, so PlayKeyboardTW is definitely around and checking the boards. Dunno why they haven’t provided more guidance on status though...
Sorry for not being more clear — it was a message about my board from the last round (which recently died). Though I asked, no specific info was provided about what the issue was or how/when I could obtain a replacement, only a general assurance that it had been fixed in the new round and that I shouldn’t be concerned about my R2 order.
Of course, the lack of specifics are exactly what’s causing my concern, but that’s another issue.
Would really like to know where its up to now.I feel you, man.
After seeing the last image I would have assumed it would be finished by Easter, but its still not done...
I am getting a little impatient now.
Not a huge deal, but getting close to 6 months past the original due date is a little frustrating even if it isn't outside the norm.
This is especially true after seeing the Kyuu(which was my other potential choice to this) is in peoples hands now and it started its group buy a while later than this.
Not a huge deal, but getting close to 6 months past the original due date is a little frustrating even if it isn't outside the norm.
I always had faith in you guys :) Thanks so much for the work. Bad news on my end though...I got a White case. Hope the delays on that are only for a few days!Same here! ...
Hi guys. We are packing now. ;)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Anyone get a tracking number or anything like that already?I'm part of the group that ordered white and will have to wait longer for anodising so no
Kinda worried about when it ships, since I leave the country for a few months on the 17th :(You will get notice when shipping
quick Q, did anyone get an email of their colour choice for their plate yet? haven't gotten anything unless one hasn't been sent out yet?The color of plate was chosen when people joined GB, wasn't it?
yep that's correct. please check your order confirmation email.quick Q, did anyone get an email of their colour choice for their plate yet? haven't gotten anything unless one hasn't been sent out yet?The color of plate was chosen when people joined GB, wasn't it?
That's what I thought. But I have a vague recollection that if you added an extra alu plate maybe you couldn't choose the color of the extra onequick Q, did anyone get an email of their colour choice for their plate yet? haven't gotten anything unless one hasn't been sent out yet?The color of plate was chosen when people joined GB, wasn't it?
That's what I thought. But I have a vague recollection that if you added an extra alu plate maybe you couldn't choose the color of the extra onequick Q, did anyone get an email of their colour choice for their plate yet? haven't gotten anything unless one hasn't been sent out yet?The color of plate was chosen when people joined GB, wasn't it?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Guys. All things are pretty much packed up.
We are now having a little negotiation with the company responsible for our shipping, and waiting for them to pick up packages for us.
Some environmental staffs of local government are still checking factories in this area for illegal activities.
It will take a couple more days for us to bring white cases back from factory doing electrophoresis for us.
We hope this ends quickly. :)
Hi guys. We are packing now. ;)
That's what I thought. But I have a vague recollection that if you added an extra alu plate maybe you couldn't choose the color of the extra onequick Q, did anyone get an email of their colour choice for their plate yet? haven't gotten anything unless one hasn't been sent out yet?The color of plate was chosen when people joined GB, wasn't it?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Correct, extra plates did not have a color choice option. Barry sent out an email back in September for people to pick plate colors for the extra plates.
Hi again! Those government staffs stayed longer than we expected.Thanks for the update
We kinda couldn't really do anything about it. So we decided to spend time double checking everyone's package.
And we sent out the first batch (around 110+ sets) earlier today to the shipping company.
They are sorting out shipping addresses, so it will take a bit time for tracking numbers to be out.
(Attachment Link)
Also, white cases are done. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
We'll be back when anything comes up for you guys. ;)
Really, really thanks for the waiting from all of you.
Hi again! Those government staffs stayed longer than we expected.
We kinda couldn't really do anything about it. So we decided to spend time double checking everyone's package.
And we sent out the first batch (around 110+ sets) earlier today to the shipping company.
They are sorting out shipping addresses, so it will take a bit time for tracking numbers to be out.
(Attachment Link)
Also, white cases are done. :thumb:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
We'll be back when anything comes up for you guys. ;)
Really, really thanks for the waiting from all of you.
Better photos under a better light source:Beautiful! Thanks!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Better photos under a better light source:
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the pictures!
How glossy are those white cases? I remember that earlier samples of the white case were too glossy for your taste, but it’s so tough to get a sense of the finish with pictures sometimes.
Thanks!
Better photos under a better light source:
(Attachment Link)
Is the bottom one standard silver? Looks great (the silver, never been a fan of white).
Thanks for the update
The white cases look a bit creamy.
Can you take a photo in brighter lighting?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Could you please put .dwg file for Alps plate?
Where will we get our shipping tracking number. Will it be e-mailed or is it through the playkeyboard website?
Any more updated on status of shipping?I asked yesterday via the chat on their website and they said they hope to start sending out tracking numbers today via email update. It sounded like if you created a login for play-keyboard.store when you joined the GB you might be able to see your tracking number there too
I asked yesterday via the chat on their website and they said they hope to start sending out tracking numbers today via email update. It sounded like if you created a login for play-keyboard.store when you joined the GB you might be able to see your tracking number there too
Guys, all orders are now in the shipping company right now awaiting for being shipped (including white cases).YAAAY! Have fun at computex! - I'm jealous
Unfortunately we got 3 orders lacking of brass plates. Another small production was on going earlier today already.
So it means that there will be some extra brass plates put on our site after all GB orders are sent (and other extra parts as well).
Shipping numbers should be out these days, but I (Barry) am going to Taipei for Computex for next 3 days.
So I won't be able to update numbers to orders, as they might be already on the way to you guys.
I will finish the work as soon as I get back. ;)
Thanks!
Guys, all orders are now in the shipping company right now awaiting for being shipped (including white cases).
Unfortunately we got 3 orders lacking of brass plates. Another small production was on going earlier today already.
So it means that there will be some extra brass plates put on our site after all GB orders are sent (and other extra parts as well).
Shipping numbers should be out these days, but I (Barry) am going to Taipei for Computex for next 3 days.
So I won't be able to update numbers to orders, as they might be already on the way to you guys.
I will finish the work as soon as I get back. ;)
Thanks!
Just took delivery of this beauty! Thanks for hosting this GB Barry, and I hope everyone else loves their new case as much as I do :)Naiiisu!
(Attachment Link)
Just took delivery of this beauty! Thanks for hosting this GB Barry, and I hope everyone else loves their new case as much as I do :)
(Attachment Link)
So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
I live on the same island as the starter of this GB, so my shipping was handled with a local carrier called SF.
So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
I live on the same island as the starter of this GB, so my shipping was handled with a local carrier called SF.
SF Express? Oh. No.
Out of loop here. is there something horrible about SF Express that I should know about?So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
I live on the same island as the starter of this GB, so my shipping was handled with a local carrier called SF.
SF Express? Oh. No.
Most orders are shipped by DHL so don’t worry.
Out of loop here. is there something horrible about SF Express that I should know about?So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
I live on the same island as the starter of this GB, so my shipping was handled with a local carrier called SF.
SF Express? Oh. No.
Most orders are shipped by DHL so don’t worry.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
(Attachment Link)
Finished a wireless build, now just waiting for GMK Minimal to ship!
Out of loop here. is there something horrible about SF Express that I should know about?So jealous....I'm just hoping I'm not one of the 3 delayed orders :( was it shipped with DHL?
I live on the same island as the starter of this GB, so my shipping was handled with a local carrier called SF.
SF Express? Oh. No.
Most orders are shipped by DHL so don’t worry.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Not that I’m aware of but because they were concerned about it I figured I’d mention that DHL is being used for this GB.
(Attachment Link)
Finished a wireless build, now just waiting for GMK Minimal to ship!
What battery did you use for your build?
I've run into trouble with the Bluetooth wireless function on the keyboard. The battery I have plugged in does charge with the switch in the off position, and I have a battery tester that reads it as having been fully charged. But when I turn the power on via the switch between tab and Q, nothing happens. Any ideas?
I've run into trouble with the Bluetooth wireless function on the keyboard. The battery I have plugged in does charge with the switch in the off position, and I have a battery tester that reads it as having been fully charged. But when I turn the power on via the switch between tab and Q, nothing happens. Any ideas?
And nevermind! Just a quick PSA/tip for people that have purchased the bluetooth PCB. The power leads on all batteries that you buy to fit this board will be reversed. When inserted into the board, the red lead should, in fact, match up with the positive (+) silkscreen on the PCB (quite obvious in hindsight, but I assumed any batteries bought with the same connector would be compatible). A detached lead that you can solder to your own battery is included, which is already in the correct orientation, so if you don't want to fiddle around with the connector, you can just snip it off and solder on the replacement provided.
I've run into trouble with the Bluetooth wireless function on the keyboard. The battery I have plugged in does charge with the switch in the off position, and I have a battery tester that reads it as having been fully charged. But when I turn the power on via the switch between tab and Q, nothing happens. Any ideas?
And nevermind! Just a quick PSA/tip for people that have purchased the bluetooth PCB. The power leads on all batteries that you buy to fit this board will be reversed. When inserted into the board, the red lead should, in fact, match up with the positive (+) silkscreen on the PCB (quite obvious in hindsight, but I assumed any batteries bought with the same connector would be compatible). A detached lead that you can solder to your own battery is included, which is already in the correct orientation, so if you don't want to fiddle around with the connector, you can just snip it off and solder on the replacement provided.
do you have a picture of the problem?
I didn't understand correctly
KMK Labs.
Are many people still waiting on teaching information? I haven't received an email yet
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Just got delivery notification from DHL. Estimated arrival Tuesday June 4th.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Just got delivery notification from DHL. Estimated arrival Tuesday June 4th.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Dang, did any of you guys order white cases?
Upon checking tracking details looks like package weight is 1.1lbs which is way too light for a keyboard. Anyone else have a similiar weight?Yea my tracking also says 1.1lbs... weird
Upon checking tracking details looks like package weight is 1.1lbs which is way too light for a keyboard. Anyone else have a similiar weight?Yea my tracking also says 1.1lbs... weird
Did you guys receive an email regarding tracking or was it through the website? My board probably hasn't shipped yet but I'm just curious
Did you guys receive an email regarding tracking or was it through the website? My board probably hasn't shipped yet but I'm just curious
I totally forgot that I also did this, I got a text message while I was sleeping. ETA MONDAY!!! YEEETDid you guys receive an email regarding tracking or was it through the website? My board probably hasn't shipped yet but I'm just curious
I've signed up for DHL shipping notifications previously so anytime a DHL shipment goes to my home address I get a text.
I've run into trouble with the Bluetooth wireless function on the keyboard. The battery I have plugged in does charge with the switch in the off position, and I have a battery tester that reads it as having been fully charged. But when I turn the power on via the switch between tab and Q, nothing happens. Any ideas?
And nevermind! Just a quick PSA/tip for people that have purchased the bluetooth PCB. The power leads on all batteries that you buy to fit this board will be reversed. When inserted into the board, the red lead should, in fact, match up with the positive (+) silkscreen on the PCB (quite obvious in hindsight, but I assumed any batteries bought with the same connector would be compatible). A detached lead that you can solder to your own battery is included, which is already in the correct orientation, so if you don't want to fiddle around with the connector, you can just snip it off and solder on the replacement provided.
do you have a picture of the problem?
I didn't understand correctly
KMK Labs.
Red wire on bottom, black on top. That how it should be, but the stock connector on batteries have it reversed so that red is on top when it's plugged in. Just swap the two around in the plastic housing for the leads or cut it off and solder on the included extra connector that comes with the CA66. So my battery (and pretty much all other batteries) will have the red wire on top when you first get them. Switch, and youre done. The connector isn't symmetrical, so that's why you have to fiddle around with the wires.
(Attachment Link)
Did you guys receive an email regarding tracking or was it through the website? My board probably hasn't shipped yet but I'm just curious
I've signed up for DHL shipping notifications previously so anytime a DHL shipment goes to my home address I get a text.
I've run into trouble with the Bluetooth wireless function on the keyboard. The battery I have plugged in does charge with the switch in the off position, and I have a battery tester that reads it as having been fully charged. But when I turn the power on via the switch between tab and Q, nothing happens. Any ideas?
And nevermind! Just a quick PSA/tip for people that have purchased the bluetooth PCB. The power leads on all batteries that you buy to fit this board will be reversed. When inserted into the board, the red lead should, in fact, match up with the positive (+) silkscreen on the PCB (quite obvious in hindsight, but I assumed any batteries bought with the same connector would be compatible). A detached lead that you can solder to your own battery is included, which is already in the correct orientation, so if you don't want to fiddle around with the connector, you can just snip it off and solder on the replacement provided.
do you have a picture of the problem?
I didn't understand correctly
KMK Labs.
Red wire on bottom, black on top. That how it should be, but the stock connector on batteries have it reversed so that red is on top when it's plugged in. Just swap the two around in the plastic housing for the leads or cut it off and solder on the included extra connector that comes with the CA66. So my battery (and pretty much all other batteries) will have the red wire on top when you first get them. Switch, and youre done. The connector isn't symmetrical, so that's why you have to fiddle around with the wires.
(Attachment Link)
Are those Mil Max sockets?? Supposedly, they didn't fit R1, but if they fit R2, amazing!
Yep! Socketed the entire board, and installed sip sockets for the LEDs for good measure. Here's to hoping this is end game :))
Probably these: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=7305&keywords=7305-0-15-15-47-27-10-0&pkeyword=7305&v=How do you know those ones are the right size though?
Mill Max 7305
Because I've used these on several boards. The two common Mill Max sockets used on mech boards is the 0305 or the 7305, and the ones he pictured are definitely not the 0305. You should wait for the guy above to confirm, but for myself, I am 99% certain it's the 7305.Cool, I'll wait to hear. Is there any downside to adding millmax sockets?
Because I've used these on several boards. The two common Mill Max sockets used on mech boards is the 0305 or the 7305, and the ones he pictured are definitely not the 0305. You should wait for the guy above to confirm, but for myself, I am 99% certain it's the 7305.Cool, I'll wait to hear. Is there any downside to adding millmax sockets?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yep! Socketed the entire board, and installed sip sockets for the LEDs for good measure. Here's to hoping this is end game :))
What size sockets did you use? Could you post a link?
Wow, thanks for the info. I'm going to try this.
What does one use for LEDs? SIP sockets?
I'm having issues with my pcb not being recognised by qmk toolbox (on win10 machine). Does anyone have any clue as to why this is happening? I can't flash my layout :(
I'm having issues with my pcb not being recognised by qmk toolbox (on win10 machine). Does anyone have any clue as to why this is happening? I can't flash my layout :(
Use the ydkb site that was recommended and follow the instructions under whichever version PCB you have (CAD66/CA66). Flashing should be pretty simple, hold ESC while plugging in and it should be automatically recognized. Instructions are also included in the opening post on this thread.
I just received my CA66 from DHL, but it's missing the 1x Ti badge I ordered alongside it.
I just received my CA66 from DHL, but it's missing the 1x Ti badge I ordered alongside it.
Check the foam insert in the packaging. There should be a cutout if I remember correctly from round 1.
Just got my white CA66. I have to say this is probably the most white keyboard i have seen so far. I really appreciate it. :D
Just got my white CA66. I have to say this is probably the most white keyboard i have seen so far. I really appreciate it. :D
I'm so scared I'm going to scratch the finish on mine, the white is just amazing
Really intrigued by the idea of building a hot swappable CA66.
Barry, are there any differences in the Bluetooth and non-Bluetooth PCBs that would cause sockets that work in one to not work in the other?
Really intrigued by the idea of building a hot swappable CA66.
Barry, are there any differences in the Bluetooth and non-Bluetooth PCBs that would cause sockets that work in one to not work in the other?
Received my kit today. The mill max sockets do not fit the non-BT pcb, same as R1. The pads are a little too fat. Fits perfect on BT pcb.
OK so how do you hook up the usb on the CA66 pcb...there is no connector or wires supplied.Pretty sure there should be a connector cable in there, the guy posting pictures further up has one has one
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JBKq1B7.jpg)
Long wait - but it ended up great! Loving this thing.
Did anyone else who ordered dark red receive an extremely dark purple/maroon color with a completely different back side color? :-\Hmm. That looks quite similar to the photo in the OP but that colour matching between the case top and bottom is not goodShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHeeuNA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uv7useG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wLD0YU5.jpg)
SA royalty for color comparison
Did anyone else who ordered dark red receive an extremely dark purple/maroon color with a completely different back side color? :-\Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHeeuNA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uv7useG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wLD0YU5.jpg)
SA royalty for color comparison
Can you guys please post pics of your BT and non-BT 0CBs for comparison? Much appreciated in advance.What do you want to see?
Some issues:
On the BT PCB, it appears that there is a hole drilled out where the pad is (pictured, blue arrow) for the "|\" switch. Is this somehow intentional? It appears that I would have to bridge it to the closest pad there.
Non-BT PCB, it appears that two pads are drilled into, and half there, again, what's up with that and will it eff things up?
Just got mine, and the white finish is indeed gorgeous! Two quick questions though:
1. Is anybody else's case missing the two long rubber strips / feet that were on the last round?
2. I'm no doubt going to feel stupid once I hear the answer, but what are the white plastic washers for, and what are the little components with the yellow dots (they're loose in a bag for one of my PCBs, and part of a strip in the other)?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EvJK6x2.jpg)
Did anyone else who ordered dark red receive an extremely dark purple/maroon color with a completely different back side color? :-\Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHeeuNA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uv7useG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wLD0YU5.jpg)
SA royalty for color comparison
Mine is quite dark as well but I would say it’s in the realm of what I was expecting. The bottom plate isn’t a perfect match but again, it’s not outside of what I’d consider acceptable.
On another note, does anyone know what B2 (second from top on far right) of the standard PCB is mapped to? I’m trying to ensure everything is working before soldering. Already found a loose component causing my Down arrow to not work so I’m going to try and resoldering that.
Just got mine, and the white finish is indeed gorgeous! Two quick questions though:
1. Is anybody else's case missing the two long rubber strips / feet that were on the last round?
2. I'm no doubt going to feel stupid once I hear the answer, but what are the white plastic washers for, and what are the little components with the yellow dots (they're loose in a bag for one of my PCBs, and part of a strip in the other)?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/EvJK6x2.jpg)
1. I got the feet.
2. The SMD components are white LEDs for backlighting the Winkey and far right column.
3. The washers are for use with screw in stabs, so that you don't short any pads.
Doesn’t do nearly enough justice. I’m going to take pictures again tomorrow when I have some daylight.Nice! I remember that vendor posting on r/mm about using old style phone cables. It looks good!Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190604/39953932201dfcb328b8a6b63a12393b.jpg)
Getting the battery working was a bit of a pain but it’s charging and works without power. Gotta figure out how the Bluetooth actually works though!
Doesn’t do nearly enough justice. I’m going to take pictures again tomorrow when I have some daylight.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190604/39953932201dfcb328b8a6b63a12393b.jpg)
Getting the battery working was a bit of a pain but it’s charging and works without power. Gotta figure out how the Bluetooth actually works though!
Some issues:
On the BT PCB, it appears that there is a hole drilled out where the pad is (pictured, blue arrow) for the "|\" switch. Is this somehow intentional? It appears that I would have to bridge it to the closest pad there.
Non-BT PCB, it appears that two pads are drilled into, and half there, again, what's up with that and will it eff things up?
That hole in the pad is for the pcb-mount stabilizers for ISO enter key position. The stabilizer orientation is reversed between BT and non-BT PCB, so the hole sizes and positions near that pad are different. This shouldn't screw anything up, per-se, but does seem like it will make a hot-swap build a bit harder :/
The bottom hole on your non-BT PCB is for the leg of a PCB-mounted switch to fit through.
Doesn’t do nearly enough justice. I’m going to take pictures again tomorrow when I have some daylight.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190604/39953932201dfcb328b8a6b63a12393b.jpg)
Getting the battery working was a bit of a pain but it’s charging and works without power. Gotta figure out how the Bluetooth actually works though!
There isn't a pairing mode or anything; as soon as you switch on the bluetooth with the switch between tab and Q, it should become discoverable.
Some issues:
On the BT PCB, it appears that there is a hole drilled out where the pad is (pictured, blue arrow) for the "|\" switch. Is this somehow intentional? It appears that I would have to bridge it to the closest pad there.
Non-BT PCB, it appears that two pads are drilled into, and half there, again, what's up with that and will it eff things up?
That hole in the pad is for the pcb-mount stabilizers for ISO enter key position. The stabilizer orientation is reversed between BT and non-BT PCB, so the hole sizes and positions near that pad are different. This shouldn't screw anything up, per-se, but does seem like it will make a hot-swap build a bit harder :/
The bottom hole on your non-BT PCB is for the leg of a PCB-mounted switch to fit through.
Didn't affect hotswap as much as I thought it would, there's enough contact there to make a rigid connection. I've swapped switches about 4 times already, because I'm indecisive like that.
Some issues:
On the BT PCB, it appears that there is a hole drilled out where the pad is (pictured, blue arrow) for the "|\" switch. Is this somehow intentional? It appears that I would have to bridge it to the closest pad there.
Non-BT PCB, it appears that two pads are drilled into, and half there, again, what's up with that and will it eff things up?
That hole in the pad is for the pcb-mount stabilizers for ISO enter key position. The stabilizer orientation is reversed between BT and non-BT PCB, so the hole sizes and positions near that pad are different. This shouldn't screw anything up, per-se, but does seem like it will make a hot-swap build a bit harder :/
The bottom hole on your non-BT PCB is for the leg of a PCB-mounted switch to fit through.
Didn't affect hotswap as much as I thought it would, there's enough contact there to make a rigid connection. I've swapped switches about 4 times already, because I'm indecisive like that.
It will definitely be able to work wit just a short bridge. I have all of my sockets in, but haven't even soldered them in, yet all exept that key, and z work without solder. I will solder them in later, but wanted to test it out. Very easy to program, BT connected right away.
Two things:
1) How do I disable or sabilize LED? The rainbow cycle is annoying.
2) The Z key does not have a hole big enough for the middle part of the switch to go through. How dangerous is it to drill the hole a little larger?
I love it. The white came out really well. There were a couple black specs on the outside, but they wiped away easily.
I guess I don't understand the RGB controls though. The top key toggles on/off and the key below that does nothing. I thought that key changed the modes?
(Attachment Link)
Has anyone noticed a reasonable number of poorly anodised spots on their board? Mine just arrived and from a distance it looks great, but up close there are a number of spots where the anodisation is a bit iffy.. I understand this will never be perfect, I just want to get an idea of other people's results - white case here if it makes a difference. Will take photos when I get home
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Anyone with a BT PCB that can help me out?
I flashed mine with a layer and keys that toggle BT/USB, BT Pairing, BT stop pairing, and BT forget.
I was able to pair it to my iPhone once but am not able to pair it to any of my devices now including the iPhone originally paired with.
The board is working fine otherwise and I can tell it’s going into BT mode when I use the toggle because it won’t work on my computer when it’s plugged in but in BT mode.
Any tips would be appreciated!
Any suggestions for batteries?
Is there different type of connectors on different pcb's?
I have the BT-version and my USB-connector is connected with a classic connector/cable, but I see some have ribbon/flat cables?
I also got an on/off switch separately, I guess it's the BT power switch.
Some have received plastic washers for screw-in stabs, I didn't.
guys did you all use ydkb to configure it?
guys did you all use ydkb to configure it?I did. Be aware that the link to ydkb configurator defaults to the non BT PCB firmware. You need to choose CAD66 for the BT board.
Built mine up with orange alps as well! Anyone have any issues with programming though? After flashing I'm getting a device malfunctioned error.Make sure you made a hex file for the CAD66 not the CA66. Also, hold the esc down until it's done flashing. Fixed it for me.
2 of each per switch. Buy 5 extra of each for if you mess some up.
If you don't mind waiting2 of each per switch. Buy 5 extra of each for if you mess some up.
just to be sure, i'm looking at the following for switches:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=%200305-2-15-80-47-80-10-0%20
2 per switch
and this for the LEDs:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=%20310-43-164-41-001000%20
2 per led
right?
Ah, that was it. Was using CA66. Thanks!Built mine up with orange alps as well! Anyone have any issues with programming though? After flashing I'm getting a device malfunctioned error.Make sure you made a hex file for the CAD66 not the CA66. Also, hold the esc down until it's done flashing. Fixed it for me.
If you don't mind waiting2 of each per switch. Buy 5 extra of each for if you mess some up.
just to be sure, i'm looking at the following for switches:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=%200305-2-15-80-47-80-10-0%20
2 per switch
and this for the LEDs:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=%20310-43-164-41-001000%20
2 per led
right?
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/bwvhza/gb_millmax_sockets_7305_06040611/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Did anyone else who ordered dark red receive an extremely dark purple/maroon color with a completely different back side color? :-\Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/MHeeuNA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uv7useG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/wLD0YU5.jpg)
SA royalty for color comparison
Space is not working on mine. Is this the issue? It looks like I’m missing the “T4” component.
I was excited to get this in the mail a couple of days ago but there are quite a few marks that can't be removed and seem to be scuffs/scratches.
any advise on this OP?
Any suggestions for batteries?
Built the first one, Orange ALPS.
Built the first one, Orange ALPS.
Built mine up with orange alps as well! Anyone have any issues with programming though? After flashing I'm getting a device malfunctioned error.
Wanted to share some actual good shots of my built board. I'm quite happy with it and the colour I think is a bit more purple? But it's definitely growing on me!
(Attachment Link)
https://imgur.com/a/bTtVE3v (https://imgur.com/a/bTtVE3v)
I am happy I finally have my board but am also a little surprised with the amount of nicks/scratches/ano marks. I am also missing one of the plate screws. Don't know if this was normal or within the realm of quality control but it seems like a little more than normal.From what I've seen the nicks/scratches are more easily visible on the coloured boards. Also the ano mismatch between case/base is present on other colours.
https://imgur.com/a/jBlmX8e
The caps are not on switches; they are just placed for a mock up.
I am happy I finally have my board but am also a little surprised with the amount of nicks/scratches/ano marks. I am also missing one of the plate screws. Don't know if this was normal or within the realm of quality control but it seems like a little more than normal.
https://imgur.com/a/jBlmX8e
The caps are not on switches; they are just placed for a mock up.
How many sip and milmax sockets are needed per switch?Millmax dont fit this pcb homie.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
You will find from the post further up that they fit r2How many sip and milmax sockets are needed per switch?Millmax dont fit this pcb homie.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
How many sip and milmax sockets are needed per switch?Millmax dont fit this pcb homie.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Did anyone with a BT keyboard reflash their firmware and still have BT working?Did you create your hex file using the CAD66 (not CA66) option on the ydkb configurator website?
I can’t get my Bluetooth working. Light is on so I know the board has power but it doesn’t show up in Bluetooth settings on any of my devices.
Did anyone with a BT keyboard reflash their firmware and still have BT working?Did you create your hex file using the CAD66 (not CA66) option on the ydkb configurator website?
I can’t get my Bluetooth working. Light is on so I know the board has power but it doesn’t show up in Bluetooth settings on any of my devices.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Hmm. I can't help sorry, I haven't got a battery to start testing my BT pcbDid anyone with a BT keyboard reflash their firmware and still have BT working?Did you create your hex file using the CAD66 (not CA66) option on the ydkb configurator website?
I can’t get my Bluetooth working. Light is on so I know the board has power but it doesn’t show up in Bluetooth settings on any of my devices.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yep, definitely used the CAD66 option
Got my board yesterday but was finally able to open it today. I got to say I am disappointed. I have many defects in my anodization. Here is the link to the imgur:
https://imgur.com/a/7bn2ld5
They are so obvious when you look at the board and I can feel some of them as I run my finger over. I have an R1 Grey that I love and it is flawless, but this one I don't think I can use because the defects are so obvious that all I do is stare at them. Barry, is there anything you can do to correct this? I know others have defects as well. This would be like a C stock board, yet I paid for an A stock. How does this even pass QC? Would cerakoting help cover these? I fear the two near the badge would still be there since the basically feel like cuts that they tried to fill in with something before anodizing.
Is anyone else's PCB randomly disconnecting for a split second at times? I hear the USB disconnect noise but my board works like right after. I am using the BT PCB, and a DIY ZapCables cable I made. The cable works with my 1800mini just fine, never disconnects, so I don't think its the cable.
My Bluetooth was working perfectly until I connected a different keyboard to the computer. When I went to plug the CA66 back in it is not recognizing the BT connection. Even redoing the whole BT connection process and nothing.
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
My Bluetooth was working perfectly until I connected a different keyboard to the computer. When I went to plug the CA66 back in it is not recognizing the BT connection. Even redoing the whole BT connection process and nothing.
My Bluetooth was working perfectly until I connected a different keyboard to the computer. When I went to plug the CA66 back in it is not recognizing the BT connection. Even redoing the whole BT connection process and nothing.
Yeah I can’t get my BT working either. Paired once to my iPhone and then left it. Now it doesn’t show up on any of my devices.
What’s odd is I downloaded a Bluetooth scanner app and it comes up on there but with minimal data.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/5a22e83412edca3ebff79fb4c6ba2f39.jpg)
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
I didn't get any spare diodes in with mine..
Wondering if anyone can compare their non-BT board to mine. It looks like there is a component missing but it's not near a switch hole like the rest do I'm not sure if it's just a mis-print.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/dbdfc1d3ff0486c654ad16451d92bb01.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
I didn't get any spare diodes in with mine..
Wondering if anyone can compare their non-BT board to mine. It looks like there is a component missing but it's not near a switch hole like the rest do I'm not sure if it's just a mis-print.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/dbdfc1d3ff0486c654ad16451d92bb01.jpg)
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Board arrived and built yesterday!Is that hago oblivion? I wish my oCo Honeywell red accents were that dark!
In spite of it having a couple case flaws, I'm in love with how the whole build turned out.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/TjvkPUv.jpg)
Board arrived and built yesterday!Is that hago oblivion? I wish my oCo Honeywell red accents were that dark!
In spite of it having a couple case flaws, I'm in love with how the whole build turned out.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/TjvkPUv.jpg)
Edit: looks incredible!
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Wish I had known about the community when 7bit was running those GBs. I was about a year too late, now the markups are crazy!Board arrived and built yesterday!Is that hago oblivion? I wish my oCo Honeywell red accents were that dark!
In spite of it having a couple case flaws, I'm in love with how the whole build turned out.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/TjvkPUv.jpg)
Edit: looks incredible!
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Thanks! It's 7bit's Round 6 keycaps actually! Took forever to get but it was definitely worth it
can someone educate me on what these are for? especially the white ribbonThe bag with the ribbon cable is for non-BT PCB. That ribbon cable connects the main PCB to the daughter board with the USB connection on it. The other bag is for the BT PCB
Thanks in advance.
Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.That is a big batty indeedShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
I didn't get any spare diodes in with mine..
Wondering if anyone can compare their non-BT board to mine. It looks like there is a component missing but it's not near a switch hole like the rest do I'm not sure if it's just a mis-print.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/dbdfc1d3ff0486c654ad16451d92bb01.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
If everyone hasn't done so already, I'd recommend giving your PCBs a thorough once-over to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be.
After reading about the issue Reicheous had, I checked out the two in my order and sure enough -- there's a missing component on one of mine as well. Good times.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jmvAP7i.jpg)
There are extra diodes included, just in case this happened during shipping and handling, so you can solder one on. Just make sure it's in the right orientation and everything should be fine.
I didn't get any spare diodes in with mine..
Wondering if anyone can compare their non-BT board to mine. It looks like there is a component missing but it's not near a switch hole like the rest do I'm not sure if it's just a mis-print.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/dbdfc1d3ff0486c654ad16451d92bb01.jpg)
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Is it possible to put Kailh hot swap sockets on this board??
I thought not but the pic I quoted has some on the right hand column. I'm ordering milmax sockets anyway but thought the Kailh sockets might be easier to deal with. Ah well. Thanks.
I thought not but the pic I quoted has some on the right hand column. I'm ordering milmax sockets anyway but thought the Kailh sockets might be easier to deal with. Ah well. Thanks.
That picture is of the non-Bluetooth V2 pcb. They made the right column hotswap, but only the right column.
Pcbs need to be designed for kailh sockets from the beginning, they’re not something that can be retrofitted. They require a footprint that has pads on the back side of the board and non-plated holes cut right where the usual switch mounting holes would be.
Has anyone else has an issue with two of the plate holes being a fraction too small to fit the switch fully in?
I am quite disappointed that I just spent over an hour lubing 70 roselios then building the board to find that two switches are not fully in, and cannot go in.
Worse than that is, I ended up having to ruin one switch to get it out because the angle it was stuck on prevented me from being able to press the tabs in.
Photos to show the angle the switch gets stuck on. #1 and #2 are both too small to fit switches properly.
The photo that says same switch fits fine in the 1u hotswap hole but not in either of the 2 shown.
Edit: spellingShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/02e5d7dcc6452ca9c787226d12d006cc.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/0b91b4dfa81ca910dfbf0e92b3d350c8.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190607/5b1fd9b1fcb4ee8006831f32c6f64021.jpg)
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PlayKeyboardTW, are you still working your way through the support emails?
Emailed on Monday but haven't gotten a response yet.
Thanks!
Finally got a chance to put my purple R2 together.Show Image(https://i.redd.it/zymf01il7y231.jpg)
HFO/HFR work so well on this case. Only complaint I have is that the bottom cover is a very, very tight fit... I have to smack the case to get it to come loose.
Can anything be done about the case anodization defects? :(
Is there or will there be any way of running QMK on the Bluetooth PCB?
Is there or will there be any way of running QMK on the Bluetooth PCB?
I’m talking with Mech Merlin about porting it over. I might send him my PCB so he can help us with that!
Finally got a chance to put my purple R2 together.Show Image(https://i.redd.it/zymf01il7y231.jpg)
HFO/HFR work so well on this case. Only complaint I have is that the bottom cover is a very, very tight fit... I have to smack the case to get it to come loose.
Basic black with Space Cadet on Outemu silent Skys.
Basic black with Space Cadet on Outemu silent Skys.
That basic black sure is pretty
Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
I measured before ordering and found that it has enough clearance if it’s positioned closer to the rounded part of the case where it’s more spacious. I’ll double check with the actual battery later, hopefully I didn’t make an error when measuring.Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
Where are these dimensions listed?Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
Where are these dimensions listed?Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
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I meant the free space dimensions in the cad66Where are these dimensions listed?Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
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https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jauch-quartz/LP906090JH-PCM-WIRES-70MM/1908-1377-ND/9560999
3.62" L x 2.38" W x 0.39" H (92.0mm x 60.5mm x 9.9mm)
I measured before ordering and found that it has enough clearance if it’s positioned closer to the rounded part of the case where it’s more spacious. I’ll double check with the actual battery later, hopefully I didn’t make an error when measuring.Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
the actual battery may be a little smaller than the spec states, but I printed out a mockup last night and couldn't close the case, even with the battery placed all the way up against the back of the case and in between the screw posts for the back cover.
I meant the free space dimensions in the cad66Where are these dimensions listed?Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jauch-quartz/LP906090JH-PCM-WIRES-70MM/1908-1377-ND/9560999
3.62" L x 2.38" W x 0.39" H (92.0mm x 60.5mm x 9.9mm)
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I meant the free space dimensions in the cad66Where are these dimensions listed?Waiting on my DHL order to get picked up, but in the mean time, here's the battery I got. Digi-Key p/n 1908-1377-ND. The clearance is a bit tight, but some fish paper on the back of the PCB will solve that concern. I'll update when the build is done, and once I see how many months it will run on this beefy 6Ah boy.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/FjsGsiG.jpg)
Just FYI, according to the listed dimensions, that battery is too thick to fit the case.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jauch-quartz/LP906090JH-PCM-WIRES-70MM/1908-1377-ND/9560999
3.62" L x 2.38" W x 0.39" H (92.0mm x 60.5mm x 9.9mm)
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
there aren't any afaik. I have a R1 board and a 3d printer, so to find a good battery, I just take the dimensions of the battery I'm considering, model it real quick (takes like 2 minutes in fusion360), print it out, and then stick it inside the case and see if it fits.
In my little bag of extras, I have the daughter board for usb, ribbon, washers for screw in stabs and a piece that has 5 little rectangles with yellow dots. I am ignorant as to what that is for. Can someone help me out?The white pieces with yellow circles are spare LEDs
Thank you for this. Love it!The WS2 white matches the case really well!
Is there a bluetooth driver for Windows 10? Bluetooth connection seems fine with Linux Debian 9 and Android, but completely unusable on Windows 10.
I can connect on Windows 10, but the keystrokes have lag and either don't register or repeat many times.
In my little bag of extras, I have the daughter board for usb, ribbon, washers for screw in stabs and a piece that has 5 little rectangles with yellow dots. I am ignorant as to what that is for. Can someone help me out?The white pieces with yellow circles are spare LEDs
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You understand what the rest are for, right?In my little bag of extras, I have the daughter board for usb, ribbon, washers for screw in stabs and a piece that has 5 little rectangles with yellow dots. I am ignorant as to what that is for. Can someone help me out?The white pieces with yellow circles are spare LEDs
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Thanks.
are extra plates available for purchase??
Are the website GB's dates for 2018, or are they current?2018. They are being delivered now.
Are the website GB's dates for 2018, or are they current?2018. They are being delivered now.
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Is there a bluetooth driver for Windows 10? Bluetooth connection seems fine with Linux Debian 9 and Android, but completely unusable on Windows 10.
I can connect on Windows 10, but the keystrokes have lag and either don't register or repeat many times.
That may be a problem specific to your hardware. I've used the board on 3 seperate computers, all running Windows 10 with no problems so far. Try updating your drivers through Windows update, or disabling and then reenabling your bluetooth chipset from the device manager.
Is anyone else having an issue with their Bluetooth PCB disconnecting itself and quickly re-connecting over a wired connection? I have not connected to any Bluetooth devices yet, and have tried turning off Bluetooth but the issue persists. It also happens with different laptops and with different USB cables.Are you using the correct firmware (CAD66) from ydkb.io?
Is anyone else having an issue with their Bluetooth PCB disconnecting itself and quickly re-connecting over a wired connection? I have not connected to any Bluetooth devices yet, and have tried turning off Bluetooth but the issue persists. It also happens with different laptops and with different USB cables.Are you using the correct firmware (CAD66) from ydkb.io?
http://ydkb.io/?cad66
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Have you tried using the board outside of the case? I haven't gotten round to using my BT board but I'm a bit sceptical of how reliable the connection will be, considering the placement of the module and the amount of alu almost completely surrounding itIs anyone else having an issue with their Bluetooth PCB disconnecting itself and quickly re-connecting over a wired connection? I have not connected to any Bluetooth devices yet, and have tried turning off Bluetooth but the issue persists. It also happens with different laptops and with different USB cables.Are you using the correct firmware (CAD66) from ydkb.io?
http://ydkb.io/?cad66
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Yes sure am. I think in an earlier post Barry mentioned firmware updates but am not certain if this is firmware or hardware related, perhaps a poor power connection.
Have you tried using the board outside of the case? I haven't gotten round to using my BT board but I'm a bit sceptical of how reliable the connection will be, considering the placement of the module and the amount of alu almost completely surrounding itIs anyone else having an issue with their Bluetooth PCB disconnecting itself and quickly re-connecting over a wired connection? I have not connected to any Bluetooth devices yet, and have tried turning off Bluetooth but the issue persists. It also happens with different laptops and with different USB cables.Are you using the correct firmware (CAD66) from ydkb.io?
http://ydkb.io/?cad66
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Yes sure am. I think in an earlier post Barry mentioned firmware updates but am not certain if this is firmware or hardware related, perhaps a poor power connection.
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Yea I am also having the same disconnection and reconnection issue on Bluetooth. He told me to tape the connector, which I did. I also looked at my DIY ZapCables and resoldered everything - it works on every other one of my boards, and my phone, even when i wiggle it like crazy. So I think the issue is definitely isolated to the Bluetooth PCB. I'm going to take a look at the daughter board at some point, and see if some points may need solder.
Have you tried using the board outside of the case? I haven't gotten round to using my BT board but I'm a bit sceptical of how reliable the connection will be, considering the placement of the module and the amount of alu almost completely surrounding itIs anyone else having an issue with their Bluetooth PCB disconnecting itself and quickly re-connecting over a wired connection? I have not connected to any Bluetooth devices yet, and have tried turning off Bluetooth but the issue persists. It also happens with different laptops and with different USB cables.Are you using the correct firmware (CAD66) from ydkb.io?
http://ydkb.io/?cad66
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Yes sure am. I think in an earlier post Barry mentioned firmware updates but am not certain if this is firmware or hardware related, perhaps a poor power connection.
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I noticed the same issue while outside the case too. Come to think of it, I think I had the same problem with one of my R1 PCB daughter boards, and swapping the daughter board got it working. I only have the one BT PCB daughter board however so some more in depth troubleshooting is in my future.
Are the website GB's dates for 2018, or are they current?2018. They are being delivered now.
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Thank you for the feedback. It appears that the set can still be bought at the website. I hope for a third round.
I'm I the only one having connection issus in OS X?
I've tested several different cables and all have the same issue on my MacBook Pro (late 2018) and all of them work on my PC with Windows 10..
On my Mac, half of the times I connect the led strip lights up solid and half it won't light up at all. Only a few times the keyboard actually boots up and connects.
I haven't tried with Bluetooth as I don't have a battery.
Can anyone tell me, would this battery be suitable? - the website says it is an "unprotected cell" and I'm not sure if that matters on this board. Any help appreciated
https://www.jaycar.com.au/18650-rechargeable-li-ion-battery-2600mah-3-7v/p/SB2308
Edit: assuming the size is ok, I'm just interested in whether the battery is ok
Anyone have news how to fix the intermittent disconnection issue?
Looks like the legs of the switches you are using is to fat to seat all the way in the PCB. You can try clipping the legs. I had this problem with zeal switches in another build and went with MX black instead.I have already tested the switches in the PCB and plate separately and they are fine. The reason it won't fit through the plate and PCB together is because the plate seems to be poorly cut and forces the switches on to an angle to reach the PCB holes. I had the same issue with my alu plate and have to desolder then file the plate so I figured maybe it's a common problem since it's happened on both my plates.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/9a670ab2a31a93321c89572b678b176d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/d98800a65fa323b25e3c691a5aa39f85.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/a1bc524a70f1e955c23ce7f9cf16a96f.jpg)
Anyone have news how to fix the intermittent disconnection issue?
I am having the same issue with the BT pcb while it is plugged in.
Anyone have an extra plate they’d be willing to sell? I have a ton of verified trades on mechmarket.
Let me know. Thanks a lot.
Anyone have an extra plate they’d be willing to sell? I have a ton of verified trades on mechmarket.
Let me know. Thanks a lot.
I sent you a PM, I have an extra plate you can have for retail.
I need some Pro tips if anyone can help. I have just checked to see if I can fit switches on each corner of my brass plate with the BT PCB but once I get the switches in on one side, the switches on the other side are about 1-1.5mm out of alignment. I have tried flexing the plate a bit to get the switches into the PCB but had no luck. Hoping for some suggestions as I don't really want to take a file to this plate too...Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/5571c4f01e7ef3948221471a63bbbcc4.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/2508545c3838fd3c591f75943b51b407.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/1d5f33c6f56d2da7cbc2aa6e385566cb.jpg)
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I need some Pro tips if anyone can help. I have just checked to see if I can fit switches on each corner of my brass plate with the BT PCB but once I get the switches in on one side, the switches on the other side are about 1-1.5mm out of alignment. I have tried flexing the plate a bit to get the switches into the PCB but had no luck. Hoping for some suggestions as I don't really want to take a file to this plate too...Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/5571c4f01e7ef3948221471a63bbbcc4.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/2508545c3838fd3c591f75943b51b407.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/1d5f33c6f56d2da7cbc2aa6e385566cb.jpg)
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I need some Pro tips if anyone can help. I have just checked to see if I can fit switches on each corner of my brass plate with the BT PCB but once I get the switches in on one side, the switches on the other side are about 1-1.5mm out of alignment. I have tried flexing the plate a bit to get the switches into the PCB but had no luck. Hoping for some suggestions as I don't really want to take a file to this plate too...Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/5571c4f01e7ef3948221471a63bbbcc4.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/2508545c3838fd3c591f75943b51b407.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190615/1d5f33c6f56d2da7cbc2aa6e385566cb.jpg)
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Are you aligning the PCB upside-down? Looking at the first photograph, you might be. The RGB LEDs should be facing up, through the long rectangular slit in the plate, not downward. I don't have a BT PCB, only standard, but looking at mine the RGB LEDs are oriented facing up and key labels are also on the top side. SMD soldered stuff like controller and such should be facing under the PCB.
Always pcb mount.
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You should by from Faxe. He has the cheapest gmk screw in stabs in the world.Always pcb mount.
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Yep ok. Only reason I had that in mind was I accidentally bought plate mount and now have a set laying around. Anyway, bought a set of GMK screw in stabs from 1up.
Well, I got mine... including 2 factory-installed scuffs on the top and a missing screw! This matte anodizing seems relatively fragile.
It's a handsome keyboard otherwise.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/lYO1ciG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Qjri6p4.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/VAUw49f.jpg)
Since BIOI G60 BLE is going to be running QMK/VIA and uses the same BTLE module as the CAD66, will the CAD66 be getting ported to QMK now as well?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=98821.msg2707635#msg2707635
Just made another building & flashing guide for Bluetooth PCB. :)
Link: http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp (http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp)
We know some of you are encountering disconnecting issue, and we have some boards with BT PCBs awaiting for us to assemble.
Please give us some time to test them to see if we will meet same problems.
But we guess it's more about the grounding problem of buildings. Since the connector is a bit touched with wall of connector opening.
I myself did face the same issue when using Tex Yoda 2 as well, which it's connector is in the same situation.
And here are some photos of a purple case with SA Grand Budapest. We assume some of you might remember this combo showing in first round. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Hello
Are all orders already shipped? I can't wait to build my CA66 but I need this Alps plate file to order a cutout.I apologize for my impatience :)
Just made another building & flashing guide for Bluetooth PCB. :)
Link: http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp (http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp)
We know some of you are encountering disconnecting issue, and we have some boards with BT PCBs awaiting for us to assemble.
Please give us some time to test them to see if we will meet same problems.
But we guess it's more about the grounding problem of buildings. Since the connector is a bit touched with wall of connector opening.
I myself did face the same issue when using Tex Yoda 2 as well, which it's connector is in the same situation.
And here are some photos of a purple case with SA Grand Budapest. We assume some of you might remember this combo showing in first round. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Quick update here. We just had a talk with PCB maker.
The reconnecting might be caused by some preceding checking process of keyboard.
He had modified the process and just updated the newest firmware to the site.
If you are facing this problem, please remake a hex file and flash it into your keyboard again.
Thanks. :thumb:
Just made another building & flashing guide for Bluetooth PCB. :)
Link: http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp (http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp)
We know some of you are encountering disconnecting issue, and we have some boards with BT PCBs awaiting for us to assemble.
Please give us some time to test them to see if we will meet same problems.
But we guess it's more about the grounding problem of buildings. Since the connector is a bit touched with wall of connector opening.
I myself did face the same issue when using Tex Yoda 2 as well, which it's connector is in the same situation.
And here are some photos of a purple case with SA Grand Budapest. We assume some of you might remember this combo showing in first round. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Quick update here. We just had a talk with PCB maker.
The reconnecting might be caused by some preceding checking process of keyboard.
He had modified the process and just updated the newest firmware to the site.
If you are facing this problem, please remake a hex file and flash it into your keyboard again.
Thanks. :thumb:
Thanks Barry. I have updated to a new hex file with new firmware, but I am still experiencing disconnects and reconnects. It happens every 30 minutes or so, which I feel is less frequent than it had been prior to updating to the new firmware, but nonetheless it is still occurring, unfortunately.
Just made another building & flashing guide for Bluetooth PCB. :)
Link: http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp (http://bit.ly/2X2cJsp)
We know some of you are encountering disconnecting issue, and we have some boards with BT PCBs awaiting for us to assemble.
Please give us some time to test them to see if we will meet same problems.
But we guess it's more about the grounding problem of buildings. Since the connector is a bit touched with wall of connector opening.
I myself did face the same issue when using Tex Yoda 2 as well, which it's connector is in the same situation.
And here are some photos of a purple case with SA Grand Budapest. We assume some of you might remember this combo showing in first round. ;)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Why did I not see this in time ....... :( This is the nicest looking board ever.I'm considering selling mine, but I'm in AU so if you're in the US postage might be a killer
Why did I not see this in time ....... :( This is the nicest looking board ever.I'm considering selling mine, but I'm in AU so if you're in the US postage might be a killer
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I got a white hhkb version, titanium badge, regular & bt pcb's, silver alu plate & brass plate.Why did I not see this in time ....... :( This is the nicest looking board ever.I'm considering selling mine, but I'm in AU so if you're in the US postage might be a killer
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I am in the UK and would pay the postage. What was your order (you can PM if you wish)
I got a white hhkb version, titanium badge, regular & bt pcb's, silver alu plate & brass plate.Why did I not see this in time ....... :( This is the nicest looking board ever.I'm considering selling mine, but I'm in AU so if you're in the US postage might be a killer
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I am in the UK and would pay the postage. What was your order (you can PM if you wish)
My plates weren't cut properly so I'm waiting on replacements.
I've also built it with sakurios and cbf desoldering them so will be selling with.
Once I know what's happening with the plates I'll make a decision and pm you to see if you're still looking
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I got mine a few weeks back, but IRL work kept me busy. Finally was about to build and was checking the pcb before soldering , I notice that one of the less had come off, likely in shipping .It's difficult to see in the photo but it looks kinda like it has pulled off the pads with it. Can you take a closer photo?Show Image(https://i.ibb.co/vwCXN7Q/F012-C5-E7-7459-44-E3-9-A28-C1-E1024-FACF1.jpg)
https://ibb.co/w0Zcn9w
Is this fixable ? I have not soldered any smd components in the past .
Anyone has any words of advice ? Should I be asking for a pcb replacement ?
I got mine a few weeks back, but IRL work kept me busy. Finally was about to build and was checking the pcb before soldering , I notice that one of the less had come off, likely in shipping .It's difficult to see in the photo but it looks kinda like it has pulled off the pads with it. Can you take a closer photo?Show Image(https://i.ibb.co/vwCXN7Q/F012-C5-E7-7459-44-E3-9-A28-C1-E1024-FACF1.jpg)
https://ibb.co/w0Zcn9w
Is this fixable ? I have not soldered any smd components in the past .
Anyone has any words of advice ? Should I be asking for a pcb replacement ?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
For people having the disconnecting/reconnecting issue, I added a piece of wire between the port and the case as shown in this M65-A post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86756.msg2611640#msg2611640 and it seems to have solved the issue! I used electrical tape instead of masking tape. My right column is also working again after unplugging and replugging the switches into the hotswap sockets. So far so good!
For people having the disconnecting/reconnecting issue, I added a piece of wire between the port and the case as shown in this M65-A post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86756.msg2611640#msg2611640 and it seems to have solved the issue! I used electrical tape instead of masking tape. My right column is also working again after unplugging and replugging the switches into the hotswap sockets. So far so good!
For people having the disconnecting/reconnecting issue, I added a piece of wire between the port and the case as shown in this M65-A post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86756.msg2611640#msg2611640 and it seems to have solved the issue! I used electrical tape instead of masking tape. My right column is also working again after unplugging and replugging the switches into the hotswap sockets. So far so good!
Wow, so one end of wire touching daughter board USB C port, other end touching part of case, and then tape it down?
Any update on replacement parts?+1
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
*2Any update on replacement parts?+1
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Any update on replacement parts?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Not sure why but my usb is reconnecting once every so often.. tried multiple cables... anybody run into this?
*2Any update on replacement parts?+1
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
I'm also curious about status. My two orders have been marked as not yet picked up by DHL for about a month now.
I got mine a few weeks back, but IRL work kept me busy. Finally was about to build and was checking the pcb before soldering , I notice that one of the less had come off, likely in shipping .It's difficult to see in the photo but it looks kinda like it has pulled off the pads with it. Can you take a closer photo?Show Image(https://i.ibb.co/vwCXN7Q/F012-C5-E7-7459-44-E3-9-A28-C1-E1024-FACF1.jpg)
https://ibb.co/w0Zcn9w
Is this fixable ? I have not soldered any smd components in the past .
Anyone has any words of advice ? Should I be asking for a pcb replacement ?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yeah, that definitely pulled pads off with it. 1 at the very least, you can see part of a trace still attached to one of them
Not sure why but my usb is reconnecting once every so often.. tried multiple cables... anybody run into this?
Refer to above comments, attach wire from USB port to any part of the case.
unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.
I've been using my BT pcb without a battery for a month and while I do hear the occasional bing-bong over the speakers that usually indicates unplugged keyboard, I still haven't had typing ability cut out.
Waiting on a battery to arrive but tentative about switching the wire leads around although I see why it needs to be done.
Why was it ever reversed on the pcb in the first place?
unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.
I’m not saying that’s going to happen, but it might... maybe someone has just been waiting to see how this round of pcbs panned out before they finalized their design...
unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.
I’m not saying that’s going to happen, but it might... maybe someone has just been waiting to see how this round of pcbs panned out before they finalized their design...
Does that person know the exact issue that is causing failures in the stock boards? I'd be hesitant to purchase an aftermarket board until the problem with the current ones is known.
According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.
According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.
Yeah, they’re just jumpers. You desolder them from the positions they’re in and move them or You can use almost anything to make the connection (reuse the component that’s there, use a bit of wire, a big solder blob, literally anything just to make the connection). Whichever set (qmk or ydkb) is not connected is the one that you have chosen to use. So if the components are on the qmk spots, you’re flashing ydkb hex files; if the components are on ydkb, you’re flashing qmk hex files.
According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.
Yeah, they’re just jumpers. You desolder them from the positions they’re in and move them or You can use almost anything to make the connection (reuse the component that’s there, use a bit of wire, a big solder blob, literally anything just to make the connection). Whichever set (qmk or ydkb) is not connected is the one that you have chosen to use. So if the components are on the qmk spots, you’re flashing ydkb hex files; if the components are on ydkb, you’re flashing qmk hex files.
Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?
I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.
Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?
I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.
Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?
I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.
I have my r2 pcb working with QMK, but this was before I knew about the Jumpers. I still haven't moved mine from the default.
I don't have dead keys, they all work. The caps lock light doesn't work for me though. Also the backlighting flickers, but I think that's due to QMK using a software PWM.
I looked through my git history and I didn't make any configuration changes (key layouts only), so I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for you.
But my bigger question now, is why does it work for me even though I have not switched the jumpers? What do the jumpers do?
Yep, moving the jumpers back to the original position (which according to the instructions is for YDKB) and then flashing a QMK hex seems to work. So I also have no idea what the jumpers do (other than break a column...)
Thats what I get for following instructions :scream:
So, I'm happy to have a working PCB, but would love to hear an explanation about these jumpers.
Yep, moving the jumpers back to the original position (which according to the instructions is for YDKB) and then flashing a QMK hex seems to work. So I also have no idea what the jumpers do (other than break a column...)
Thats what I get for following instructions :scream:
So, I'm happy to have a working PCB, but would love to hear an explanation about these jumpers.
Can you flash a ydkb built hex in the current configuration?
So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.
I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.
After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.
I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.
I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?
Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps :( Thanks for any help!
So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.
I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.
After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.
I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.
I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?
Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps :( Thanks for any help!
update to the latest firmware of 2019-7-13. I made a little mistake in the previous version.
So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.
I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.
After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.
I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.
I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?
Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps :( Thanks for any help!
update to the latest firmware of 2019-7-13. I made a little mistake in the previous version.
Any chance you might port the bt pcb to qmk?
Well, at least your BT-pcb worked for a while..
Did you accidentally use the CA66 and not CAD66 firmware?
;D I won't miss this round!
Hahahaha;D I won't miss this round!
lol I got news for ya bud
Any extras avail? ;D
Got my build ready.Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388738262_84def809d9_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388591231_a9010c0428_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388734277_4303301ef9_k.jpg)
Got my build ready.Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388738262_84def809d9_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388591231_a9010c0428_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388734277_4303301ef9_k.jpg)
Looks really nice! Is that with the carbon fibre plate? How does it feel?
There was a carbon fiber plate option?
That was an interesting read. I'm not into linears, but very cool.Got my build ready.Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388738262_84def809d9_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388591231_a9010c0428_k.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48388734277_4303301ef9_k.jpg)
Looks really nice! Is that with the carbon fibre plate? How does it feel?
It feels extremely pleasing to type on for me personally. The downside of it, it is very switch quality/smoothness demanding. The flexing amplifies every scratch greatly. I've tried in my previous build vintage cherries and that plate revealed all the micro scratch they had but by a great amount. You need extremely smooth switches. For example very carefully sorted vintage blacks or tealios. In this current build i've installed tealios with miky tops (milky tops to make tealios soft on bottom out and it works only with cherry profile).There was a carbon fiber plate option?
Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0
Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0
Built my kit yesterday. The switch cutouts on the brass plate were not machined correctly almost like the tooling slipped during the machining and I had to file 6 switch cutouts on the left side to get the switches to fit.Contact playkeyboard about the mis-cut plate, they are making replacements at the moment - I had the same issue with both of my plates, both on the left side, as if the plate slipped during laser cutting.
Also, for some reason I can't get my pc to recognize the bluetooth pcb. My phone recognizes it immediately. I have tried the adafruit app and reflashing the firmware and none of those worked.
The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.
Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0
I guess you used the plate mount stabilizers for this build?
I made one plate using the plate file you shared but I don't have the time to build it yet.
Looking at the PCB and the default plates of CA66, I think there is a problem on the plate file you shared. The stabilizer direction of spacebar should be reversed in 180 degree to use the pcb mount stabilizers. Because the metal wire of PCB mount stabilizers is on the top side rather than the bottom side.
The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.
I will update it (when I get home) with my recent version. I had no issues with it in my current build. I've used GMK screw in stabs.The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.
Don't know where to get the latest version. I downloaded it last year from the first post in https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0. And I double check the svg link now, this problem remains.
The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.
Don't know where to get the latest version. I downloaded it last year from the first post in https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0. And I double check the svg link now, this problem remains.
I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.Do you have a battery connected? I'm not sure if it could cause your problem but I remember reading a comment further back about the polarity markings being reversed on the battery leads - remove the battery and trouble shoot with only hard wire connection.
When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.
When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.
When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.
Do you have a battery connected? I'm not sure if it could cause your problem but I remember reading a comment further back about the polarity markings being reversed on the battery leads - remove the battery and trouble shoot with only hard wire connection.
You probably did, but make sure your are holding down the escape key when you plug the board in all the way through to when it finishes flashing (I think you can let go once flashing begins but I can't remember off the top of my head).
Lastly, check the solder connections on the PCB and daughter board (the controller and usb port especially) and ensure the plug between daughter board and PCB is firmly in place.
That's all I can think to check.
Edit: did you test the board before building and/or flashing a hex file?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The BT PCB doesn’t have those solder points that are on the standard pcb. There is no qmk port for the BT PCB yet.Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.
I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.
When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
The size of your downloaded firmware is not correct.
here is mine.
(Attachment Link)
Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.
Do you know which BLE module (I'm assuming it's BLE) the CA66 BT PCB is using? I am currently working towards expanding BT support in QMK to several new BLE modules as part of a large project I'm working on. I may be able to look into supporting this module as well, or at least perform the expansion in such a way that facilitates adding support for it later on.
Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.
Do you know which BLE module (I'm assuming it's BLE) the CA66 BT PCB is using? I am currently working towards expanding BT support in QMK to several new BLE modules as part of a large project I'm working on. I may be able to look into supporting this module as well, or at least perform the expansion in such a way that facilitates adding support for it later on.
Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.
And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.
Do you know which BLE module (I'm assuming it's BLE) the CA66 BT PCB is using? I am currently working towards expanding BT support in QMK to several new BLE modules as part of a large project I'm working on. I may be able to look into supporting this module as well, or at least perform the expansion in such a way that facilitates adding support for it later on.
Here’s a shot of the module itself. (Attachment Link)
Would it be possible to port QMK and skip the BT support for the initial release?
For me I can live with out BT if I get QMK, sure both would be ideal but we got to start somewhere.
Hi, I'm new to GeekHack. Please forgive me if this is a redundant question. Will there be another GB this year for the CA66? I'm just beginning to become familiar with the Group Buy method.
It would be really nice to get an update on replacement replacement parts+1
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
It would be really nice to get an update on replacement replacement parts+2
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
It would be really nice to get an update on replacement replacement parts+3
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
It would be really nice to get an update on replacement replacement parts
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Is there still a possibility to join this GB?
Just got notice from PlayKeyboards about sending them back my damaged board for replacement - they wont cover shipping the damaged unit back to them. Frankly this is unacceptable that people that received units of unacceptable quality now have to pay even more money to get their boards replaced. The quote I received from DHL was for $140.
The cost of shipping from the US is prohibitively expensive. After waiting for so long to see if playkeyboards will do anything to make this situation right, I will probably end up just having the board re-coated locally, it will be the more cost effective solution - but this is not how replacements should be handled.
That sucks you didn't receive a board up standards but this is standard practice in ecommerce. The buyer usually pays for shipping return items back. Even Amazon will deduct the price of shipping from the refund amount.
I got around to building my CA66 a couple weeks ago. Wish I had a better cameraNot sure about extras but they are still organising replacement parts for those who had issues with their orders. It's been a while so an update might be coming soon thoughShow Image(https://i.redd.it/ver34ftdbad31.png)
Is there any way we could find out about extra parts? I would gladly buy an extra PCB, or a bluetooth one if any are available
Looking to buy a black or dark gray kit, and willing to pay a premium. Contact me here or on Reddit at the same username. (Positive feedback in /r/MechMarket at my username)Check pm
Mine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.
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I got most of those fixed by grounding the usbc to the case. Try thatMine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.
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Same here. Regardless of whether used in Bluetooth mode or with cable. Also regardless of whether battery is turned on/off.
Would love to know if there is a solution to that as it's highly annoying when typing.
I got most of those fixed by grounding the usbc to the case. Try thatMine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Same here. Regardless of whether used in Bluetooth mode or with cable. Also regardless of whether battery is turned on/off.
Would love to know if there is a solution to that as it's highly annoying when typing.
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Look hereI got most of those fixed by grounding the usbc to the case. Try thatMine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Same here. Regardless of whether used in Bluetooth mode or with cable. Also regardless of whether battery is turned on/off.
Would love to know if there is a solution to that as it's highly annoying when typing.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Sorry if this a dumb question, but how do you ground the USB C cable to the case? I'm starting to have issues where my BT pcb keeps rebooting.
Look hereI got most of those fixed by grounding the usbc to the case. Try thatMine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Same here. Regardless of whether used in Bluetooth mode or with cable. Also regardless of whether battery is turned on/off.
Would love to know if there is a solution to that as it's highly annoying when typing.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Sorry if this a dumb question, but how do you ground the USB C cable to the case? I'm starting to have issues where my BT pcb keeps rebooting.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97035.msg2783022.msg#2783022
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What's the opinion on the alu plates? My replacement one looks kinda like it was cut with a band saw - also kinda sharp.That looks nasty
Photos to compare good side with the bad sideShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/1047990f8c5265e3a3f5c0c1f2868c4b.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/70a60ccc4fe59711be0f4c53bab2e43f.jpg)
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I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.Someone, not saying who, might be looking into making an aftermarket replacement pcb
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
I have a pcb which I am not using. Only thing is, it has millmax sockets installed. I did install them in every possible cherry mx switch position.
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I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.Someone, not saying who, might be looking into making an aftermarket replacement pcb
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.They promised replacement PCBs for participants in Round 1.
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.They promised replacement PCBs for participants in Round 1.
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=iokk9a9rvh856od6ohiq8ehign7io8j4&topic=93542.msg2712253#msg2712253
I contacted them on Facebook Messenger and they sent me a Round 2 PCB for free.
http://m.me/playkeyboard
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.They promised replacement PCBs for participants in Round 1.
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=iokk9a9rvh856od6ohiq8ehign7io8j4&topic=93542.msg2712253#msg2712253
I contacted them on Facebook Messenger and they sent me a Round 2 PCB for free.
http://m.me/playkeyboard
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Just messaged them on FB Messenger about when the extra PCB's will be available for purchase and heard nothing back.
The last time they replied to me was back in March about PCB's being up in April.
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
This sounds pretty great. If it's been asked before, I apologize, but will your PCBs have BT too?Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
This sounds pretty great. If it's been asked before, I apologize, but will your PCBs have BT too?Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
Thanks for the info. Hopefully the BT support improves sooner than later. Either way, I look forward to your replacements. :thumb:This sounds pretty great. If it's been asked before, I apologize, but will your PCBs have BT too?Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
No. QMK BT support isn't that great right now, so I decided not to support it right now. in the future, if the support and integration in qmk improves, I'll make a BT version.
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.They promised replacement PCBs for participants in Round 1.
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=iokk9a9rvh856od6ohiq8ehign7io8j4&topic=93542.msg2712253#msg2712253
I contacted them on Facebook Messenger and they sent me a Round 2 PCB for free.
http://m.me/playkeyboard
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Just messaged them on FB Messenger about when the extra PCB's will be available for purchase and heard nothing back.
The last time they replied to me was back in March about PCB's being up in April.
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
I have a Round 1 Ca66 Winkeyless kit.They promised replacement PCBs for participants in Round 1.
I Have gone through 2 PCBs so far.
Booth with the same symptoms. random keys stop working. then the whole thing stops working.
Does anyone know where I can get another PCB, or a replacement?
at this point, it's looking like I will have to hand wire this to get it back to life.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=iokk9a9rvh856od6ohiq8ehign7io8j4&topic=93542.msg2712253#msg2712253
I contacted them on Facebook Messenger and they sent me a Round 2 PCB for free.
http://m.me/playkeyboard
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Just messaged them on FB Messenger about when the extra PCB's will be available for purchase and heard nothing back.
The last time they replied to me was back in March about PCB's being up in April.
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
This is very frustrating. I sold an extra PCB to someone else without testing it first, and it looks like theirs was DOA. Both the buyer and I are now getting the runaround from Barry at Play Keyboards. I certainly won't be joining another one of their GBs.
I've got one from the first round and the PCB seems to have randomly completely died, and now looking back it sounds like this is not that uncommon? Is there anywhere to get a PCB right now or upcoming?
Long shot but does anyone know where to acquire a daughter board for the CA66? Is it something that can be bought off Amazon/ebay?Probably best to ask PKB. They have a chat feature on their website. Do you have the ribbon cable?
Long shot but does anyone know where to acquire a daughter board for the CA66? Is it something that can be bought off Amazon/ebay?Probably best to ask PKB. They have a chat feature on their website. Do you have the ribbon cable?
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So do you have a case?Long shot but does anyone know where to acquire a daughter board for the CA66? Is it something that can be bought off Amazon/ebay?Probably best to ask PKB. They have a chat feature on their website. Do you have the ribbon cable?
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I bought a r2 PCB off of someone who has an extra PCB but he's also selling the other bundle as a whole so I'm left without a daughter board
I messaged play-keyboard on Messenger and they said it's too long since my buy (which was over a year ago, first international round) to get a free replacement.
I messaged play-keyboard on Messenger and they said it's too long since my buy (which was over a year ago, first international round) to get a free replacement.
TBH I think that's BS. It was specifically said they would send free replacement PCBs to R1 buyers (1 free if you bought 2 pcbs, half price if you only bought one in R1) to replace the failing PCBs from R1. They said for R1 buyers to wait and they would inform R1 buyers when to send their info and start sending out replacements after R2 shipped. I never heard anything about replacements after that statement. I even asked them and was told the same thing, to wait, they would let people know. I asked about extras (PCBs and plates), was told they'd be available after R2, never heard anything or saw any listed...
Honestly, much as I love my CA66, the communication has been consistently abysmal...
Hey, I know it seems this GB didn’t end on the best note, but I’m wondering about a couple things since I missed it.There were only the two options of either HHKB or WKL. Officially there were four rounds, the two posted here were for the international buys. Considering how messy this last round was I wouldn't consider there to be a high likelihood for a fifth round. If you really like it then I would recommend buying one on r/mm since they aren't uncommon and they usually aren't flipped for crazy amounts of money.
Did this have a WinKey version at all? All I’m finding on mechmarket are HHKB and WKL.
Are there any plans for an R3? Or another version of the board with a different layout? I’ve been really into the 75% form factor lately, and I think it would look great with this design.
I’m hugely into the aesthetics of this board, and I’d really love to add one to my collection!
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You’re right. They’re pretty easy to find on r/mm, I guess now it’s up to me to decide whether the aesthetics are worth giving up my windows key .Hey, I know it seems this GB didn’t end on the best note, but I’m wondering about a couple things since I missed it.There were only the two options of either HHKB or WKL. Officially there were four rounds, the two posted here were for the international buys. Considering how messy this last round was I wouldn't consider there to be a high likelihood for a fifth round. If you really like it then I would recommend buying one on r/mm since they aren't uncommon and they usually aren't flipped for crazy amounts of money.
Did this have a WinKey version at all? All I’m finding on mechmarket are HHKB and WKL.
Are there any plans for an R3? Or another version of the board with a different layout? I’ve been really into the 75% form factor lately, and I think it would look great with this design.
I’m hugely into the aesthetics of this board, and I’d really love to add one to my collection!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think there have been a few boards that took some level of inspiration from the CA66's layout, the most notable in my memory is the Satisfaction 75. But as far as the case aesthetics go I think the CA66 is pretty unique.
There shouldn't be any reason why you'd be giving up the Win key with either config, unless you have a very atypical preferred layout.You’re right. They’re pretty easy to find on r/mm, I guess now it’s up to me to decide whether the aesthetics are worth giving up my windows key .Hey, I know it seems this GB didn’t end on the best note, but I’m wondering about a couple things since I missed it.There were only the two options of either HHKB or WKL. Officially there were four rounds, the two posted here were for the international buys. Considering how messy this last round was I wouldn't consider there to be a high likelihood for a fifth round. If you really like it then I would recommend buying one on r/mm since they aren't uncommon and they usually aren't flipped for crazy amounts of money.
Did this have a WinKey version at all? All I’m finding on mechmarket are HHKB and WKL.
Are there any plans for an R3? Or another version of the board with a different layout? I’ve been really into the 75% form factor lately, and I think it would look great with this design.
I’m hugely into the aesthetics of this board, and I’d really love to add one to my collection!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think there have been a few boards that took some level of inspiration from the CA66's layout, the most notable in my memory is the Satisfaction 75. But as far as the case aesthetics go I think the CA66 is pretty unique.
I appreciate the reply.
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For people who are looking for a replacement pcb I've found this one https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=608350988376&spm=a2141.7631565.1.1_1
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
I hope you can get this all worked out soon. I've got two CA66s with failed PCBs sitting here collecting dust. Play-Keyboard isn't responding to me, so replacements are probably my only option.
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
I hope you can get this all worked out soon. I've got two CA66s with failed PCBs sitting here collecting dust. Play-Keyboard isn't responding to me, so replacements are probably my only option.
In the same boat. PCB started freaking out and ghost inputting random keys. Thought it was a programming or flashing error on my part but seeing this thread I see I'm not the only one. Mine is not the bluetooth version
Prototypes for CA66-compatible PCBs?
Yeah, I wouldn’t hold out hope.
On another note, my lastest (and hopefully last) round of prototypes are in, will assemble a few and send them to my testers on my next day off of work (Monday).
Yep, direct drop in replacement. May include a replacement daughter board as well, though that may take another round of prototypes to get right. I used the wrong type C connector in the current batch, and two of the screw holes are slightly off, so it sits a little crooked and isn't super stable. but having a replacement isn't super critical, the original can still be used just fine.
I hope you can get this all worked out soon. I've got two CA66s with failed PCBs sitting here collecting dust. Play-Keyboard isn't responding to me, so replacements are probably my only option.
In the same boat. PCB started freaking out and ghost inputting random keys. Thought it was a programming or flashing error on my part but seeing this thread I see I'm not the only one. Mine is not the bluetooth version
Yeah, it's still in progress. I had a few issues with the last prototypes, and was holding off until after CNY to order a new round of prototypes. unfortunately we all know how that was delayed by the current pandemic situation. but I also managed to fracture a vertebrae and that has most things on hold for me right now until it's healed.
I can't sit or stand for long periods of time, so no long soldering sessions and no long sessions at the computer revising designs. so most of my projects are temporarily on hold or moving forward very slowly. they are all still moving forward, just not as quickly as I'd like.
believe me, I want things to move much faster than they are. I would have liked to have been done with this already, and be getting boards out to you all. but it is what it is I guess.
(Attachment Link)
Anyone have tarnishing issues with their brass badge? Also anyone have suggestions on how to deal with this?
(Attachment Link)
Anyone have tarnishing issues with their brass badge? Also anyone have suggestions on how to deal with this?
Hey there, I've made a replacement PCB for this kb with a stm32f072 chip and esd protection. my prototype works great. is there interest for me to do a batch of these? cost will be around 30 euros per board excl shipping.I'd get 2 if you do.
Also definitely interested. Will the frame colors be the same as the previous round? Thank you.
Hey there, I've made a replacement PCB for this kb with a stm32f072 chip and esd protection. my prototype works great. is there interest for me to do a batch of these? cost will be around 30 euros per board excl shipping.
- No split spacebar
- No split spacebar
I was really interested until I saw this. Any chance of adding split spacebar support? If so, I'd buy two.
Edit: Autocorrect.
Hey there, I've made a replacement PCB for this kb with a stm32f072 chip and esd protection. my prototype works great. is there interest for me to do a batch of these? cost will be around 30 euros per board excl shipping.Very, *VERY* interested. Also interested in split space support. Would also buy two or more!
just MX and no bluetooth. qmk with stm32 does not work with bluetooth yet.
- STM32
- QMK compatible
- ESD protection
- Case grounded
- 6 RGB leds
- Molex pico connector between the two boards
- No iso layout or split spacebar
- No leds for the keys (backlight)
I'll make a google form later today. unsure yet how to handle shipping in what is cheapest / best.
Shipping will be from the Netherlands
just MX and no bluetooth. qmk with stm32 does not work with bluetooth yet.
- STM32
- QMK compatible
- ESD protection
- Case grounded
- 6 RGB leds
- Molex pico connector between the two boards
- No iso layout or split spacebar
- No leds for the keys (backlight)
I'll make a google form later today. unsure yet how to handle shipping in what is cheapest / best.
Shipping will be from the Netherlands
just MX and no bluetooth. qmk with stm32 does not work with bluetooth yet.
- STM32
- QMK compatible
- ESD protection
- Case grounded
- 6 RGB leds
- Molex pico connector between the two boards
- No iso layout or split spacebar
- No leds for the keys (backlight)
I'll make a google form later today. unsure yet how to handle shipping in what is cheapest / best.
Shipping will be from the Netherlands
I'm interested. It would probably be a good idea to post a picture showing supported layouts. This PCB probably needs an IC thread of its own.
just MX and no bluetooth. qmk with stm32 does not work with bluetooth yet
just MX and no bluetooth. qmk with stm32 does not work with bluetooth yet
It’s big problem to add Alps support?
Greetings
Thanks:)
Please if anyone has an extra PCB email me at jonas@yangyoga.dk mine is broken and I can't fix it.
Love
Please if anyone has an extra PCB email me at jonas@yangyoga.dk mine is broken and I can't fix it.
Love
you've just missed my GB for replacement PCBs for the CA66. keep an eye on https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=107319.0
I will update that in a month or so to see if there is any interest still
Phuckkk...Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/1Yj1X8t.jpg)
Does anyone know where can I get a replacement for a 5-pin to 5-pin PCB to daughterboard connector?
As an update, I opened the board and used a multimeter across the contacts of each of the 4 dead switches. My multimeter beeps when each of the 4 keys are pressed, so the switches are fine. The signal just isn't getting to the controller. Can traces go bad on their own without any trauma to the board?
Thanks for the suggestions. I would reflash the firmware but annoyingly enough the ESC key is one of the 4 that is bad. Is there another way to get it into bootloader mode?
will there be r3 for ca66? i'm quite new for this hobby, so i am very sad that i didnt this GB earlier :(Someone asked them on their IG and they said it may or may not happen. :cool:
will there be r3 for ca66? i'm quite new for this hobby, so i am very sad that i didnt this GB earlier :(
will there be r3 for ca66? i'm quite new for this hobby, so i am very sad that i didnt this GB earlier :(
FYI R3 is up on Play Keyboards website