[GB] CA66 Custom Keyboard Kit Round 2 (Shipping Now)

[King4477]

Not sure why but my usb is reconnecting once every so often.. tried multiple cables... anybody run into this?

Refer to above comments, attach wire from USB port to any part of the case.

FYI, I have tried this fix also, but with no luck.

Frankly, I’ve had four PCBs from this round and the last and they all have issues (some of which took months to show symptoms)—just something I’ve come to live with. Will probably just hand wire the thing sooner or later unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.

[jrfhoutx]

unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.

I’m not saying that’s going to happen, but it might... maybe someone has just been waiting to see how this round of pcbs panned out before they finalized their design...

[Vizir]

Mine disconnects several times a day, almost as if it reboots... Both in Windows and OSX.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[Rumblehotep]

I've been using my BT pcb without a battery for a month and while I do hear the occasional bing-bong over the speakers that usually indicates unplugged keyboard, I still haven't had typing ability cut out. 
Waiting on a battery to arrive but tentative about switching the wire leads around although I see why it needs to be done. 
Why was it ever reversed on the pcb in the first place?

[DoCallMeKing]

I have a CA66 available for sale if anyone is interested in it.
I actually have 2, 1 silver and 1 dark gray. Each of them is built with tealios.

I also have an extra pcb and plate that I will be including in the sale as well.

Let me know if you're interested. You can reach me through here, discord, or reddit.

Thanks!

[anfledd]

I've been using my BT pcb without a battery for a month and while I do hear the occasional bing-bong over the speakers that usually indicates unplugged keyboard, I still haven't had typing ability cut out. 
Waiting on a battery to arrive but tentative about switching the wire leads around although I see why it needs to be done. 
Why was it ever reversed on the pcb in the first place?

Ah, good to know that it will work plugged in without the battery as I actually got two BT PCBs instead of one regular and one BT.

[fer.real]

unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.

I’m not saying that’s going to happen, but it might... maybe someone has just been waiting to see how this round of pcbs panned out before they finalized their design...

Does that person know the exact issue that is causing failures in the stock boards?  I'd be hesitant to purchase an aftermarket board until the problem with the current ones is known.

[jrfhoutx]

unless someone wants to make an aftermarket PCB.

I’m not saying that’s going to happen, but it might... maybe someone has just been waiting to see how this round of pcbs panned out before they finalized their design...

Does that person know the exact issue that is causing failures in the stock boards?  I'd be hesitant to purchase an aftermarket board until the problem with the current ones is known.

No, but the issue happening in the oem pcbs is irrelevant in whether or not an aftermarket pcb would work. the only way that it would be relevant is if the aftermarket pcb were an exact clone of the oem pcb.then you're likely to have the same problems. but if it's a new design that simply uses the layout, then the issues the oem pcbs are having doesn't matter.

Think about any 60% pcb. if PCB A has issues, and someone new designs PCB B, do you get concerned that PCB B will have the same issues as PCB A? no, cause they're completely different pcbs, two different designs. yes they both work in the same cases, but they're not the same PCB with the same problems...

[ZyBeR]

Any news on QMK for the BT-pcb?

In the current firmware, is there any type of "tap dance" functionality?

[riterdando]

According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.

[theo313]

May be a dumb question but is this keyboard NKRO default?

[jrfhoutx]

According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.

Yeah, they’re just jumpers. You desolder them from the positions they’re in and move them or You can use almost anything to make the connection (reuse the component that’s there, use a bit of wire, a big solder blob, literally anything just to make the connection). Whichever set (qmk or ydkb) is not connected is the one that you have chosen to use. So if the components are on the qmk spots, you’re flashing ydkb hex files; if the components are on ydkb, you’re flashing qmk hex files.

[ZyBeR]

[DELETED]

[rdg]

According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.

Yeah, they’re just jumpers. You desolder them from the positions they’re in and move them or You can use almost anything to make the connection (reuse the component that’s there, use a bit of wire, a big solder blob, literally anything just to make the connection). Whichever set (qmk or ydkb) is not connected is the one that you have chosen to use. So if the components are on the qmk spots, you’re flashing ydkb hex files; if the components are on ydkb, you’re flashing qmk hex files.

Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?

I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.

 

[jrfhoutx]

According to the build guide there is an option on the PCB to select QMK or YDKB.
There are components connecting both QMK positions now.
If I would like to use QMK I have to move the components, so that both YDKB positions are connected.
But how do I move them, via desoldering?
It does not look like they can be taken off without desoldering.

Yeah, they’re just jumpers. You desolder them from the positions they’re in and move them or You can use almost anything to make the connection (reuse the component that’s there, use a bit of wire, a big solder blob, literally anything just to make the connection). Whichever set (qmk or ydkb) is not connected is the one that you have chosen to use. So if the components are on the qmk spots, you’re flashing ydkb hex files; if the components are on ydkb, you’re flashing qmk hex files.

Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?

I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.

No idea tbh, I didn’t get a default R2 pcb. I still had an extra R1 pcb that worked, so I just got a bt pcb, but haven’t built it yet.

[pwxn]

Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?

I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.

I have my r2 pcb working with QMK, but this was before I knew about the Jumpers. I still haven't moved mine from the default.
I don't have dead keys, they all work. The caps lock light doesn't work for me though. Also the backlighting flickers, but I think that's due to QMK using a software PWM.

I looked through my git history and I didn't make any configuration changes (key layouts only), so I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for you.

But my bigger question now, is why does it work for me even though I have not switched the jumpers? What do the jumpers do?

[rdg]

Has anyone actually gotten the default PCB from round 2 working properly with QMK?

I've moved the jumpers and flashed a hex compiled from latest QMK source and have several dead keys. B backspace, \|, up arrow, right arrow. If I switch the jumpers back and reflash the hex from ydkb, everything works.

I have my r2 pcb working with QMK, but this was before I knew about the Jumpers. I still haven't moved mine from the default.
I don't have dead keys, they all work. The caps lock light doesn't work for me though. Also the backlighting flickers, but I think that's due to QMK using a software PWM.

I looked through my git history and I didn't make any configuration changes (key layouts only), so I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for you.

But my bigger question now, is why does it work for me even though I have not switched the jumpers? What do the jumpers do?

Hmm, well I guess I'll move the jumpers back and try all the hex... I'll report back with what works/doesn't. Thanks for the info.

[rdg]

Yep, moving the jumpers back to the original position (which according to the instructions is for YDKB) and then flashing a QMK hex seems to work. So I also have no idea what the jumpers do (other than break a column...)

Thats what I get for following instructions :scream:

So, I'm happy to have a working PCB, but would love to hear an explanation about these jumpers.

[jrfhoutx]

Yep, moving the jumpers back to the original position (which according to the instructions is for YDKB) and then flashing a QMK hex seems to work. So I also have no idea what the jumpers do (other than break a column...)

Thats what I get for following instructions :scream:

So, I'm happy to have a working PCB, but would love to hear an explanation about these jumpers.

Can you flash a ydkb built hex in the current configuration?

[yangdigi]

The switch of cad66 is a battery power switch, not bluetooth toggle.
Whatever it is on or off, with USB cable in, the bluetooth would still work as USB gives power to the keyboard.
If bluetooth can not works well, the wired mode also. So, may be some of the problems is caused by this.

Test it if the bluetooth works as it should be. Plug in USB cable, pair bluetooth device and press LShift+RShift+U to switch to bluetooth mode.

one more question: how the pcb was packed in box?

[rdg]

Yep, moving the jumpers back to the original position (which according to the instructions is for YDKB) and then flashing a QMK hex seems to work. So I also have no idea what the jumpers do (other than break a column...)

Thats what I get for following instructions :scream:

So, I'm happy to have a working PCB, but would love to hear an explanation about these jumpers.

Can you flash a ydkb built hex in the current configuration?

Yes, both type of hex seem to work fine in the original jumper configuration ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[soakedcardinal]

So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.

I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.

After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.

I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.

I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?

Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps Thanks for any help!

[ZyBeR]

Well, at least your BT-pcb worked for a while..

Did you accidentally use the CA66 and not CAD66 firmware?

[yangdigi]

So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.

I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.

After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.

I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.

I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?

Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps Thanks for any help!

update to the latest firmware of 2019-7-13.  I made a little mistake in the previous version.

[jrfhoutx]

So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.

I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.

After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.

I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.

I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?

Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps Thanks for any help!

update to the latest firmware of 2019-7-13.  I made a little mistake in the previous version.

Any chance you might port the bt pcb to qmk?

[yangdigi]

So I don't want to rain on the parade but I'm having issues with my R2 BT PCB. It was working perfectly for a week, wired or BT. Then I decided to flash a keymap and it hasn't worked since.

I put it in bootloader mode and flashed my hex built with YDKB.io using ydkbs-reflash.exe. I followed the guide(s) very carefully . . and the flash completed successfully - I saw it progress and say "... press any key to continue" and I did.

After this the LEDs were gone and every time I connect to my PC windows says "USB device not recognized". Nothing on BT either. Presence of the battery or the switch position makes no difference.

I can still get it into bootloader mode, Windows doesn't give me the error when I hold ESC and plug in. The ydkbs flash tool also still works, I can go into bootloader and flash a hex (the default one . . ) and it appears to complete just fine. But the keyboard is not functional.

I tried flashing with a different cable (both of them are quality) and using different usb2.0 ports. I am scratching my head. Is there a method I'm not using to get a working hex on the board?

Really starting to miss the clacks of these blue alps Thanks for any help!

update to the latest firmware of 2019-7-13.  I made a little mistake in the previous version.

Any chance you might port the bt pcb to qmk?

I have no that time. So I won't. I am just willing to focus on what I want to do.

[soakedcardinal]

Well, at least your BT-pcb worked for a while..

Did you accidentally use the CA66 and not CAD66 firmware?

  Yes I am dumb and the CA66 is working again!

I don't know why I thought the BT pcb would be the same target . . but It makes sense now.

 Sorry for the false alarm, carry on!

[eviLittle]

  I won't miss this round!

[Chaselicious17]

I won't miss this round!

lol I got news for ya bud

[Vizir]

I won't miss this round!

lol I got news for ya bud

Hahahaha

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[MeloDet]

This may have been asked already, but has anyone else had issues with battery mode? I've got the on/off switch soldered and it seems to briefly indicate that it's charging when first plugged in, but when I unplug it and flip the switch nothing seems to happen.

[aslanxdeft]

Any extras avail? 

[sirpensir]

Any extras avail? 

mechmarket is your best bet

[T0mb3ry]

Got my build ready.

[cijanzen]

Got my build ready.

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Looks really nice! Is that with the carbon fibre plate? How does it feel?

[Vizir]

There was a carbon fiber plate option?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[T0mb3ry]

Got my build ready.

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Looks really nice! Is that with the carbon fibre plate? How does it feel?

It feels extremely pleasing to type on for me personally. The downside of it, it is very switch quality/smoothness demanding. The flexing amplifies every scratch greatly. I've tried in my previous build vintage cherries and that plate revealed all the micro scratch they had but by a great amount. You need extremely smooth switches. For example very carefully sorted vintage blacks or tealios. In this current build i've installed tealios with miky tops (milky tops to make tealios soft on bottom out and it works only with cherry profile).

There was a carbon fiber plate option?

Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0

[Vizir]

Got my build ready.

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Looks really nice! Is that with the carbon fibre plate? How does it feel?

It feels extremely pleasing to type on for me personally. The downside of it, it is very switch quality/smoothness demanding. The flexing amplifies every scratch greatly. I've tried in my previous build vintage cherries and that plate revealed all the micro scratch they had but by a great amount. You need extremely smooth switches. For example very carefully sorted vintage blacks or tealios. In this current build i've installed tealios with miky tops (milky tops to make tealios soft on bottom out and it works only with cherry profile).

There was a carbon fiber plate option?

Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0

That was an interesting read. I'm not into linears, but very cool.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[hhkbp2]

Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0

I guess you used the plate mount stabilizers for this build?

I made one plate using the plate file you shared but I don't have the time to build it yet.

Looking at the PCB and the default plates of CA66, I think there is a problem on the plate file you shared. The stabilizer direction of spacebar should be reversed in 180 degree to use the pcb mount stabilizers. Because the metal wire of PCB mount stabilizers is on the top side rather than the bottom side.

[jariss]

Built my kit yesterday. The switch cutouts on the brass plate were not machined correctly almost like the tooling slipped during the machining and I had to file 6 switch cutouts on the left side to get the switches to fit.

Also, for some reason I can't get my pc to recognize the bluetooth pcb. My phone recognizes it immediately. I have tried the adafruit app and reflashing the firmware and none of those worked.

[Lyle88]

Built my kit yesterday. The switch cutouts on the brass plate were not machined correctly almost like the tooling slipped during the machining and I had to file 6 switch cutouts on the left side to get the switches to fit.

Also, for some reason I can't get my pc to recognize the bluetooth pcb. My phone recognizes it immediately. I have tried the adafruit app and reflashing the firmware and none of those worked.

Contact playkeyboard about the mis-cut plate, they are making replacements at the moment - I had the same issue with both of my plates, both on the left side, as if the plate slipped during laser cutting.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[T0mb3ry]

Nope there was no option for the carbon plate. I made an special prototype for me. You can read more about it here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0

I guess you used the plate mount stabilizers for this build?

I made one plate using the plate file you shared but I don't have the time to build it yet.

Looking at the PCB and the default plates of CA66, I think there is a problem on the plate file you shared. The stabilizer direction of spacebar should be reversed in 180 degree to use the pcb mount stabilizers. Because the metal wire of PCB mount stabilizers is on the top side rather than the bottom side.

The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.

[hhkbp2]

The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.

Don't know where to get the latest version. I downloaded it last year from the first post in https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0. And I double check the svg link now, this problem remains.

[T0mb3ry]

The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.

Don't know where to get the latest version. I downloaded it last year from the first post in https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0. And I double check the svg link now, this problem remains.

I will update it (when I get home) with my recent version. I had no issues with it in my current build. I've used GMK screw in stabs.

[Ultaar]

Will there be round3?

[T0mb3ry]

The very first version of the plate had that issue. If you look at the current version it is fixed. I told it somewhere but you probably have missed it.

Don't know where to get the latest version. I downloaded it last year from the first post in https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96105.0. And I double check the svg link now, this problem remains.

Re posting it from my thread and there are few points before trying it.

Before getting the plate file there are few notes to read through:

• It is only for personal use!
• This is an experimental plate and there is no guarantee or what ever. Use it on your own risk!
• I highly suggest to lower expectation before trying it. This is just proof of concept and it is not optimal by any means. The length of extensions is not adjustable - which should be the case if we consider what every person has its own preference how much flex they would like to have. There are also factors like spring strength etc. It needs to be individually adjustable. There are many of possibilities how to implement such adjustable extensions but in this case you can only choose between 4 or 8 fix points. The more fix points you use the more stiff it gets. I personally use only 4 fix points for my light linear switches (50g).
• The plate moves constantly while typing. If there is any friction in you switches (say your switches are scratchy) it will amplify the scratchy feel beyond good and evil. My suggestion is to install only extremely smooth switches (carefully sorted vintage blacks or tealios for example). I've done two builds with it and i know what i am talking about. In my first build it was really a dilemma. I will resolder my first build once i get time for it
• I've tried one tactile switch (zealio) on the plate and i can't say if there is an improvement in tactility. In my honest opinion the idea of flexing plate benefits mostly linear switches. I don't want to say you should not try it with tactiles. Probably there are some benefits but i can't feel any from trying only one switch. Usually i am against making a conclusion of just one switch. You can get proper conclusion only after typing in several sessions on a fully assembled board. So all those switch testers are pretty useless.
• Since the plate is moving up and down it needs some space for its movement. Especially for the down movement. CA66 is not designed for the flexing plate thus the plate will hit with its bottom pcb edge against the bottom piece/plate. You need to add some band aid to the impact points. If you are using GMK screw in stabs like me, then you have to add band aid at the points there the screws are. Otherwise you will get nice metal sound every time you will hit the spacebar.

Otherwise if you got time and money to make this plate, then enjoy the experiment. You might like or not but it would be nice if you could share your experience.

 ca66plate_v3.svg (57.49 kB - downloaded 74 times.)

[StrangPrisoner]

I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.

When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

[ZyBeR]

Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.

[Lyle88]

I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.

When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

Do you have a battery connected? I'm not sure if it could cause your problem but I remember reading a comment further back about the polarity markings being reversed on the battery leads - remove the battery and trouble shoot with only hard wire connection.

You probably did, but make sure your are holding down the escape key when you plug the board in all the way through to when it finishes flashing (I think you can let go once flashing begins but I can't remember off the top of my head).

Lastly, check the solder connections on the PCB and daughter board (the controller and usb port especially) and ensure the plug between daughter board and PCB is firmly in place.

That's all I can think to check.

Edit: did you test the board before building and/or flashing a hex file?


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[jrfhoutx]

I'm hoping to get some help with flashing the BT PCB. I've reached out to Barry and he got to me quickly but we haven't come up with a solution.

When I try to flash my BT PCB using a CAD66 hex file generated on ydkb.io and flashed using ydkb-reflash tool I get a "Reflash Complete" output (see image). However the keyboard is inoperable and I get a device disconnect tone repeatedly until I unplug the PCB. I have noticed that the YDKB website is wonky to say the least and I am concerned that I am not generating a proper hex file. I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues or has any advice for me here.
I've read through the thread and tried everything with the exception of trying to use QMK. I do not see the solder points people are referring to regarding QMK. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

The BT PCB doesn’t have those solder points that are on the standard pcb. There is no qmk port for the BT PCB yet.

Unfortunately qmk hasn't been ported to the bt pcb.

And it may not be until BT support is expanded in QMK. It will really depend on what BT module is used on the pcb and whether or not it’s supported in QMK currently.