Author Topic: The GarlicBoard Project  (Read 13530 times)

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Offline stiligFox

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The GarlicBoard Project
« on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 16:45:15 »


Hello everyone! I've been working on a PCB design over the last few weeks, trying to get used to Kicad. It's for a 40% + keypad design. I almost have it complete, I think, but I've a few questions -

For diodes, I have them placed next to each key - does this look right? Would it be better to have SOD123 SMD or 1N4148 diodes under the keys themselves? (I've never soldered SMD components and was hoping to avoid them.)

I've attached a zip of all my Kicad files if anyone would like to take a peek for me - I would so appreciate it! I haven't started laying down traces yet since I want to make sure everything is in the right place first.

Also, can anyone recommend Orange SMD LEDs for my 4 layer lock lights (under the teensy)? I'm willing to try SMD's for the LEDs, I'm just not sure I can solder 62 SMD diodes lol.

And last thing for now - I've told PCBNew that I want the Teensy on the bottom side - I'm assuming I did that right? Since it'll be hanging off the bottom of my keeb when it's all put together?

Thanks everyone!

EDIT June 12 2017 - changed thread title to reflect the name of the board
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 July 2018, 04:41:49 by stiligFox »

Offline ishtob

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #1 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 19:16:20 »
why hand solder when you can use an oven?

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #2 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 19:20:20 »
why hand solder when you can use an oven?

Is that hard? I mean - how hot do I have to heat oven and how do I keep my components from shifting around?

Offline ishtob

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #3 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 19:37:05 »
if you are doing just one board, the SMD isn't too bad if you plan ahead and use bigger pads. I actually find the SMD diodes goes faster since there is no need to bend and trim thing, I usually put solder on one side of each pad through the whole board first, then go back and reheat the pad while sliding the SMD into place. Once they are all secured, go back and solder the other end. Did this in half the time it takes to just placing the through-hole 1N4148.

If you are planning on doing more than one PCB, then find a low-temp solder paste and a oven that can reach 375F. It will allow you to assemble the PCB much faster, there are plenty of youtube videos on how to do this.

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #4 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 19:42:00 »
if you are doing just one board, the SMD isn't too bad if you plan ahead and use bigger pads. I actually find the SMD diodes goes faster since there is no need to bend and trim thing, I usually put solder on one side of each pad through the whole board first, then go back and reheat the pad while sliding the SMD into place. Once they are all secured, go back and solder the other end. Did this in half the time it takes to just placing the through-hole 1N4148.

If you are planning on doing more than one PCB, then find a low-temp solder paste and a oven that can reach 375F. It will allow you to assemble the PCB much faster, there are plenty of youtube videos on how to do this.

Thanks, that sounds totally doable! Is the SOD123 I mentioned a good choice if I do the SMD path?

And if I do that, I can just place them directly under the switches on the opposite side of the board, aye?

Switch
PCB
Diodes/Teensy

Offline ishtob

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #5 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 20:01:56 »
SOD123 is probably fine for hand soldering, as for LEDs and resistors, try to keep it 0805 package size or bigger. I had success with ones as small as 0402, but they were a pain to work with.

Yes, assuming your opposite means the bottom of the PCB once the switches are mount. This will also give you access to do repairs if you messed up any SMD during the soldering process without having to desolder the switches.

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #6 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 20:07:17 »
I'm happy to look at your kicad files but the folder is missing your module library.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #7 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 20:29:44 »
I'm happy to look at your kicad files but the folder is missing your module library.

Ooops! Updated with new file (40+10 260517_2)

Offline ErgoMacros

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #8 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 20:38:23 »
Hi, cool project...
Any thought to putting the 10-key on the left? Would bring the mouse in closer.
Best of luck. Probably learn a lot.
Today's quote: '...“but then the customer successfully broke that.”

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #9 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 20:48:51 »
I'm happy to look at your kicad files but the folder is missing your module library.

Ooops! Updated with new file (40+10 260517_2)

I'll check it out tonight or tomorrow  :thumb:

Hi, cool project...
Any thought to putting the 10-key on the left? Would bring the mouse in closer.
Best of luck. Probably learn a lot.

Kind of like this? The project has been on the back burner for a little over a year but at some point I'll get around to making it, I have a habit of designing PCBs but not getting them made.



https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81268.msg2135078#msg2135078
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #10 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 21:35:29 »
I'll check it out tonight or tomorrow  :thumb:

Thank you so much!! I really appreciate it :D

Hi, cool project...
Any thought to putting the 10-key on the left? Would bring the mouse in closer.
Best of luck. Probably learn a lot.


Thank you! I did consider it briefly to have the 10-key on the left but for my purpose (spreadsheets and calculations, plus the embedded arrow pad (the white keys) I'll probably be leaving it on the right.

I just noticed some of the legends didn't work on the render, here's the link to my layout: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/52a7ab2cdfa7c32add4db95ec1ce381a

One last quick question for the night - if I do replace the diodes and LED components, will I need to create a new PCBNew file from scratch since the netlist will change? Spent a lot of time getting everything lined up once lol.

Thanks everyone! Excited to be a part of this awesome community :D

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #11 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 21:42:16 »
One last quick question for the night - if I do replace the diodes and LED components, will I need to create a new PCBNew file from scratch since the netlist will change? Spent a lot of time getting everything lined up once lol.

Thanks everyone! Excited to be a part of this awesome community :D

No, you just change the modules associated with those components on the netlist and then update the PCB. Or you could go component by component in the PCB editor and change them but that'll take longer.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #12 on: Fri, 26 May 2017, 23:37:53 »
No, you just change the modules associated with those components on the netlist and then update the PCB. Or you could go component by component in the PCB editor and change them but that'll take longer.

Awesome thanks! I'll likely switch the diodes to SMD on the flip side. I also realized I should remove the PCB mounting switch holes from the board since I'll be using a plate - that'll give me more routing room. After that I'll be tidying up which pins connect to where on the Teensy to try and make it more elegant.

Also need to figure how I'm going to align my SMD LEDs since the Teensy's rear pins are in the way... on the other hand, those back three pins aren't even used so if I can figure out how to remove them from their pads I should be good. That said - of those three pins I currently have Ground shorted to the ground pin up top; do I need to use both? Or can I leave the bottom one disconnected? (See blue circle)



My only other issue I can think of is with my Teensy wiring - I'm using three of the internal pins (in red), I'm assuming that's fine but that means I'll need to find singe stem headers since I got two sets of PJRCs 12 pin header strips to attach it to my PCB... or I might just cut some singles off of the extra set of headers I got. Fun times!

Sorry for the rambling, thank you guys so much for the help! Definitely a bit out of my league here but I love learning new things!
« Last Edit: Fri, 26 May 2017, 23:40:04 by stiligFox »

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #13 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 00:08:02 »
No, you just change the modules associated with those components on the netlist and then update the PCB. Or you could go component by component in the PCB editor and change them but that'll take longer.
Awesome thanks! I'll likely switch the diodes to SMD on the flip side. I also realized I should remove the PCB mounting switch holes from the board since I'll be using a plate

Yeah, keep everything on the back of the PCB. I'd keep the PCB mounting holes it'll make sure all your switches are straight, even if the holes in the plate are cut a little too large.

I don't use Teensys so I won't be much help there.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #14 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 01:12:21 »
One last thing, sorry for all the posts...

Which do you all think looks most visually appealing? Ignoring the key functions since the size difference makes little difference to me (I use ctrl very little so it being small or big isn't a bother either way)

https://i.imgur.com/ajeTcd2.png
https://i.imgur.com/6FN1X6v.png
https://i.imgur.com/ae7R1Tt.png
« Last Edit: Sat, 27 May 2017, 15:16:01 by stiligFox »

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #15 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 02:36:32 »
One last thing, sorry for all the posts...

Which do you all think looks most visually appealing? Ignoring the key functions since the size difference makes little difference to me (I use ctrl very little so it being small or big isn't a bother either way)

Show Image


Show Image


Show Image


Design the PCB to be compatible with all 3 layouts
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #16 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 02:57:34 »
Design the PCB to be compatible with all 3 layouts

Haha, I suppose I could... would mean having blank spaces in my plate. I just suddenly noticed how uneven my layout looked, if that makes sense.

I'll update my Kicad files today or tomorrow ~ will update then.

Cheers!

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #17 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 03:03:56 »
Design the PCB to be compatible with all 3 layouts
Haha, I suppose I could... would mean having blank spaces in my plate. I just suddenly noticed how uneven my layout looked, if that makes sense.

I'll update my Kicad files today or tomorrow ~ will update then.

Cheers!

You really don't notice the extra holes once caps are on the board. The GON HHKB supports 2 different bottom row layouts and after 2 years using mine the extra space has never bothered me.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #18 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 14:29:15 »
Decided on this layout while I slept:



Okay everyone, thanks again for the pointers!

Changed LEDs to SMD 1206 LEDs (see link)
Changed Resistors to SMD 805 (see second link) (Which ones do I want to go with for Gold LEDs used for Lock lights?)
Changed Diodes to SMD 123 diode footprints - are these too small for hand soldering?
Rearranged my Teensy pins.

If someone could check for me that would be awesome - I'm having an issue with the Teensy. I have Row2 mapped to pin 4 in my schematic, but PCBNew is listing it as Col11, and so now I have two Col11 pins that are shorted under the board. This makes no sense!

Thanks again everyone!!

http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/14-ledssmd-50-pcs.html
http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/diodes-incorporated/1N4148W-7-F/1N4148W-FDICT-ND/815280 (not sure if this is appropriate diode or best source)
« Last Edit: Sat, 27 May 2017, 18:20:38 by stiligFox »

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #19 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 16:05:04 »

You really don't notice the extra holes once caps are on the board. The GON HHKB supports 2 different bottom row layouts and after 2 years using mine the extra space has never bothered me.

Hmm, I'll think about it!

I'd also keep the PCB mount holes, but I already have the plate mount switches :l
« Last Edit: Sat, 27 May 2017, 16:50:11 by stiligFox »

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #20 on: Sat, 27 May 2017, 18:22:04 »
Last update for the day - found my pin issue - I had a loose junction in my schematic connecting row 2 and col11, shorting out the whole row.

Attached is todays build, I'm pretty sure everything is good now... thanks everyone again! The new layout should be 100% now, just need to make sure nothing obvious is wrong before I start laying down traces...
« Last Edit: Sun, 28 May 2017, 21:56:07 by stiligFox »

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #21 on: Sun, 28 May 2017, 21:02:47 »
Got all but one trace laid down - I'm not sure how I should do the top one.

Are my traces too close together? I used .02" traces.



Almost ready to order!

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #22 on: Tue, 30 May 2017, 20:25:03 »
Did a loooooot of rework on my traces, it looks much nicer now.

Decided to go with a sandwich case, so I trimmed as much off the PCB as I could. It's cutting into the stabilizer mounting holes, but I'm planning on using plate mount ones anyway - I only left them in for another person who wants one of my PCBs. I flipped the two space bars around so the main mounting part of the screw in stabilizer he wants to use will be secure.

I think this is my final build - I can't think of anything else that needs to be edited. Anyone willing to plug it in Kicad and give it a final check before I send it off?






Also - does anyone know what this symbol is? It showed up and I can't get it to go away...


Thank you so much everyone! I got my Teensys in today - I knew they were small but I didn't realize they were that small! So excited!
« Last Edit: Wed, 31 May 2017, 04:48:20 by stiligFox »

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #23 on: Wed, 31 May 2017, 18:08:38 »
Your traces look a little thin but I'm not sure if it'll matter, I use 0.406mm traces where there's room and drop it to 0.256mm if I need to pack them tighter together. Here's my MA42 PCB if that helps. Other than the traces your switch matrix looks a little weird but I don't think it's incorrect.

169744-0

169746-1
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #24 on: Wed, 31 May 2017, 19:51:54 »
Your traces look a little thin but I'm not sure if it'll matter, I use 0.406mm traces where there's room and drop it to 0.256mm if I need to pack them tighter together. Here's my MA42 PCB if that helps. Other than the traces your switch matrix looks a little weird but I don't think it's incorrect.

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Hmm, thank you very much! My traces should be set to 0.02" or around .5mm -- I'll double check that...

And yeah, I was a bit, er, creative work my matrix. I want to double check to make sure my diodes are facing the right way since I'm thinking of having EasyEDA install them for me... Thank you so much for looking at it! It really means a lot!

Offline ErgoMacros

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #25 on: Wed, 31 May 2017, 22:51:44 »
I know you were only asking bout traces, but did you want to indicate Version #, Date, author, or logo in the silkscreen?
Today's quote: '...“but then the customer successfully broke that.”

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #26 on: Wed, 31 May 2017, 22:57:55 »
I know you were only asking bout traces, but did you want to indicate Version #, Date, author, or logo in the silkscreen?
You know, I was thinking about that earlier... I didn't know what I should put on there, was thinking about leaving it blank. I was thinking about calling the board "sFox 40+10" as that should be far enough away from White Fox.

Is there a standard of sorts? Something like this?

sFox 40+10
By <My Name>
v1.0_17.05.31

You can probably see I put my logo in the traces, so it'll be subtly visible.

Is there anything I should do for creative commons copyright?



Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #27 on: Wed, 31 May 2017, 23:39:58 »
I just usually put my name and the name of the board on the PCB, sometimes the date and revision if the board requires multiple revisions.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline ErgoMacros

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #28 on: Thu, 01 June 2017, 00:09:21 »
Another I'm waiting for is this one, the GH-122: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=88063.0;topicseen

He marked his PCB with:
  GH-122_2017                         (He had another in 2015 and 2016)
  (c) samwisekoi 2016-2017
  Version 170116f2 (v2.1.2)       (Complicated version, I'm sure he knows what it means.)

But anything that works for you. Got a web site you want to point to?

I did notice your logo in copper, nice touch.
Today's quote: '...“but then the customer successfully broke that.”

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #29 on: Thu, 01 June 2017, 01:00:37 »
I did notice your logo in copper, nice touch.

Btw, you can add a logo without using traces. If you import an image you can choose to put in on a silkscreen layer or to add it in copper without the normal PCB mask.

Examples

How it'd look on the back layer in KiCAD
More
169763-0


How it looks in person
More
169765-1


How the mask option looks
More
169767-2
« Last Edit: Thu, 01 June 2017, 01:02:13 by Joey Quinn »
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #30 on: Thu, 01 June 2017, 01:04:07 »
Ooo, that's pretty sweet, thanks guys! I'm trying to think of a fitting name and then I'll add my logo to the silkscreen. Cheers!

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #31 on: Fri, 02 June 2017, 18:23:05 »
At the risk of someone else taking my idea, is "garlicboard" something that's been done before? :p

Seems a bit fitting, long, narrow, (will be) white PCB....

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/deefedea4f1e6f569e215b70d19be315

Offline Joey Quinn

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #32 on: Fri, 02 June 2017, 21:32:17 »
At the risk of someone else taking my idea, is "garlicboard" something that's been done before? :p

Seems a bit fitting, long, narrow, (will be) white PCB....

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/deefedea4f1e6f569e215b70d19be315

Afaik, no

Your name is way more creative than any of mine have been MA42, MA52, MA-P
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #33 on: Sat, 03 June 2017, 02:53:57 »
Afaik, no
Your name is way more creative than any of mine have been MA42, MA52, MA-P

Heh, thanks :P

Guess I have a new name then, meet the Garlic Board!

« Last Edit: Sat, 03 June 2017, 02:57:31 by stiligFox »

Offline ErgoMacros

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #34 on: Sat, 03 June 2017, 15:25:25 »
Very nice logo. Fine job there.
Today's quote: '...“but then the customer successfully broke that.”

Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #35 on: Tue, 06 June 2017, 00:59:47 »
Ordered my PCBs! EasyEDA won’t solder the components on, but I got 400 diodes from them for $4.15, can’t beat that!

I had OfficeMax print out my plate template, and assembled my switches and an old set of key caps I had laying around...




Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #36 on: Sun, 11 June 2017, 00:56:52 »
Hello all!

My PCB’s will be arriving on Monday, and the last thing I have to order is the LEDs and their resistors.

I”d like to use the “gold” ones from GON:

http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/14-ledssmd-50-pcs.html#/color-gold

Which will have a little bit of acrylic atop of them that will act as a short light channel leading to a 2mm x 2mm square hole in my plate - so they won’t be hidden under a key cap or anything. I want them fairly dim - but I can’t seem to find a definitive source one how to determine what level resistor I should get so that they won’t shine too bright. I’m assuming some of these will work, but they seem more intended for key back lighting, which is too bright...

http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html

What do you guys recommend? Thanks for all the help! Does anyone have a good source of information where I can learn about these things?

P.S.: Does anyone know if M2 screws - does the 2mm include the threads, or just the shaft under the threads?

Offline Marcel

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #37 on: Sun, 11 June 2017, 10:38:30 »
Nice project !
Tell us how it go with the SMD. I was afraid to go this way too, so I used regular trough-hole components. It's a bit tight but it fit. The oven trick seems a bit complex to tune...

For the LEDs, they are usually rated for 20mA but are usually bright enough at 10 or 15mA. The best was is to plug one in a breadboard and try different values for the resistor and see how bright they are. The brightness also change a lot depending the quality and manufacturer of the LEDs.
Anyway, I recommend you to wire these LEDs on the PWM output of the Teensy (ie. B6, C7, D7 ) so you can adjust the brightness by software, or even program some glowing effects.
You can check out my firmware to see how it's coded : https://github.com/nagius/tmk_thinkmatrix/blob/master/backlight.c#L29-L32

2 in M2 is the outer diameter of the thread in mm. Check the datasheet of DIN 912 for example: http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~paul/CapScr.pdf



Offline stiligFox

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Re: 40+10 build questions
« Reply #38 on: Mon, 12 June 2017, 14:21:30 »
Nice project !
Tell us how it go with the SMD. I was afraid to go this way too, so I used regular trough-hole components. It's a bit tight but it fit. The oven trick seems a bit complex to tune...

For the LEDs, they are usually rated for 20mA but are usually bright enough at 10 or 15mA. The best was is to plug one in a breadboard and try different values for the resistor and see how bright they are. The brightness also change a lot depending the quality and manufacturer of the LEDs.
Anyway, I recommend you to wire these LEDs on the PWM output of the Teensy (ie. B6, C7, D7 ) so you can adjust the brightness by software, or even program some glowing effects.
You can check out my firmware to see how it's coded : https://github.com/nagius/tmk_thinkmatrix/blob/master/backlight.c#L29-L32

2 in M2 is the outer diameter of the thread in mm. Check the datasheet of DIN 912 for example: http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~paul/CapScr.pdf

Thanks for the help! I just got my PCBs in - EasyEDA was so nice, they look great! They even sent me 6 instead of just 5.

I’ll be soldering up the diodes at my brothers place on Saturday - I’ll let you know how it goes! These are even smaller than I expected so I’m a fair bit nervous. I’m going to try the tinning one side, placing, soldering other side method.

Total noob question because I can’t recall how to tell from my PCBNew schematic - how do I know which way to place the diodes? D: I see the line on one side of the diode - I’m guessing that’s the “exit” side of it. (Entrance: ->|- :exit, right?) I know my initial schematic tells, but I’m not sure which pin is which... I’ll figure it out I guess

I wished I'd know about the PWM pins on the Teensy! It looks like maybe two of my four LEDs are on PWM pins, but oh well. I think I have a good understanding now of how to calculate for resistors - but I need to make sure first so I can calculate my voltage - the Teensy 2.0 outputs 5v on all the pins, aye?

And thanks for the M2 help! I need to figure out the diameter of the shaft so I can tap a hole in aluminum with threads...













So many diodes!
« Last Edit: Mon, 12 June 2017, 14:57:31 by stiligFox »

Offline stiligFox

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Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #39 on: Tue, 13 June 2017, 04:53:05 »
Ordered my LEDs and resistors from Digi-key - I got resistors for 20, 15, 10, 5 and 2mA, just to see which I like lol.

170790-0

Offline stoic-lemon

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  • Location: Saitama, Japan
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #40 on: Tue, 13 June 2017, 05:01:27 »
You're living the dream, my man. Would love to see my own board become a reality. Good luck with this project.

Offline stiligFox

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  • Posts: 34
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #41 on: Tue, 20 June 2017, 14:39:51 »
Back with updates!

Took me a while to get stuff soldered, but I did the diodes and LEDs on Saturday, chose the resistors and soldered those last night. I bought 150,220,330,680,1500 resistors and made the worlds gnarliest LED tester, as you can see below, and chose 680 ohm resistors. Bright enough to see during the day but won’t blind me at night. Should be pulling 5mA for each LED.

I had a heck of a time with the diodes - I have a nice variable 40w soldering iron that I ran a bit short of full power; I used a ton of flux (that stuff is amazing) and for most part it went well - I may have some cold joints but it’s hard to tell. It’s no where near as neat as what some people can do with SMD components - my solder kept getting stuck to the iron and creating little peaks. These components are so tiny!! The resistor were the smallest, but because the pins are on the sides, they were ironically the easiest to place.

I also soldered on the Teensy, and clipped the headers short. I’m thinking of using a dremel to carefully grind down the stems closer to the Teensy, what do you guys think? That’ll be a lot of fine dust but I think I can clean it all out to prevent shorts...

Anyway, pics and vids! Sorry there’s so many!











Offline MajorKoos

  • Posts: 851
  • Location: Bay Area
  • 1 life please. Extra large.
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #42 on: Tue, 20 June 2017, 19:44:37 »
I love this project - this is the most useful looking 40% I've seen.
Any chance of a version with the numbers on the left?

Offline stiligFox

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 34
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #43 on: Thu, 22 June 2017, 00:38:00 »
I love this project - this is the most useful looking 40% I've seen.
Any chance of a version with the numbers on the left?

Wow thank you! Means a lot :)

There might be in the future! Once I get settled after a move I may put together an IC for an updated version of this board. I already have a few ideas for improvements, such as left side numpad for those that want it, reversing the front row of keys so it looks nicer, as well as some more outlandish ideas - like a detachable row up top and/or side columns :P

But that’ll all have to be for GarlicBoard 2.0! I’ve learned so much along the way with this design, it’s been really enjoyable! (And quite cathartic at times too)

Offline stiligFox

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  • Posts: 34
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #44 on: Fri, 23 June 2017, 03:30:39 »
Put all my files in a GitHub repo in case anyone is interested :P

https://github.com/stiligFox/The-GarlicBoard

Offline stiligFox

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  • Posts: 34
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #45 on: Sat, 19 August 2017, 14:50:45 »
Wow it's been a long time since I last did an update! Got in a plate finally so I was able to assemble most of it. Got a wood piece and plate from https://woodkeys.click/ - awesome customer service! Been working on programming it, but I'm limited by the QMK Keyboard Firmware Builder because I have no idea when it comes to coding the firmware manually :(

Here's way too many photos:


Plate/PCB/wood bezel


Adding switches and LED light guides. Using rubber cement to hold them in. They'll stay by themselves, but just for extra security I added the cement.


Getting there!


Light guides


Switches on!


Bottoms up!


Vomit board


Glamour shot for now until I get the bottom pieces in from the UK


Next to his big brother


Tested the LEDs with Teensy's blink test.

Offline stiligFox

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 34
Re: The GarlicBoard Project
« Reply #46 on: Sat, 19 August 2017, 14:57:59 »
Here comes my final issue though, besides getting proper keycaps. Can anyone help me finish the programming of the board? I want to program the LEDs to come on when certain layers are active - caps lock and three of my toggled function layers. I have poured over the QMK documentation and it's by and large over my head. I can look up the PIN numbers that LEDs are on if anyone could help me. I also don't know how to turn off the LED on the Teensy itself...

I'd also like to have my left space bar act as FN1 when I hold it and Space when I tap it. I see something similar with Space Cadet shift, but again I have no idea where to begin for programming it.

I have the .json, .hex, and source files from http://kbfirmware.com/ in a zip here: https://github.com/stiligFox/The-GarlicBoard/blob/master/GarlicBoardFirmware1.0.zip

I'd so appreciate any help!