Great review! Really enjoyed reading through it. I'm curious about the sound of those switches. You mentioned in your previous review of these switches that a heavier case with metal bottom was making the click less audible, and I wonder if it's even more true with the Kingsaver? I couldn't hear any clicky sounds in your typing video, except maybe once when you were pressing on single switches at the end. Sharp contrast with MX Blues or Greens where a click is difficult to miss.
The click is not as distinct as in say a buckling spring or Cherry switch. It is there though; a bit muffled by the foam and case. I can upload another video if you like. I thought the original video worked fine but I could be mistaken.
Fix the broken key by shorting it to an appropriate solder joint in the same key column, dawg. I had to do this to my Kingsaver when I converted it to blue ALPS. Your PCB should be fine; you don't even need to desolder. Just heat up the existing solder joint and tack the jumper wire onto it.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Q96lVMW.jpg)
I'm honestly unsure if the joints can take anymore soldering on my PCB. Thanks for the image but I think I'm just going to remap F8 when I figure out what's wrong with my Flip program.
I built a couple of these when they first came out, and it was a pleasure.
I think I remember getting some modern LEDs into the stock LED slot was a ***** to get it working properly.
Yeah it was going to be really complicated to get the LEDs to work. I would have had to swap internals then file down an LED to fit that slot in a Complicated Green Alps housing.