Looking good! I usually do it in a batch. First apply solder to the one pad for all the resistors, then place them all on, and then solder the other pad for all the resistors. This allows me not to get frustrated with aligning those tiny part, just do it in one go. Also I always listen to music while soldering, keeps you calm. :D
Will be watching this thread! Can't wait for my board to arrive. :)
Are these SMD really intended for hand-soldering?
I thought the SMDs and diodes come pre installed on the board.
I thought the SMDs and diodes come pre installed on the board.
I actually prefer the SMD stuff as opposed to the TH, one of the reasons being repair, it is such a pain to remove the diodes if you TH solder them and you realize later, that you go the orientation wrong. where as SMD, it is just so much easier.
I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.
Comments on technique?
Hats off to you with the SMD soldering :thumb: , used to repair the odd SMD board in a previous job, even with a proper rework station and training it was always a pain to do resistors and caps, so small and easy to move when soldering.
Those 0603 sized SMD as sooooo tiny! :o
Hi infiniti,
can you post some other pics of the diode soldered on the pcb, preferably on the esc,1,2,3 area. I saw a diode on one of your pics which I think is in wrong direction. I actually have this issue with sprit's pcb.
Hello! infiniti ! ;)
Nice Job! :thumb:
You prefer to sold Diodes on the front side of PCB.
I actually prefer the SMD stuff as opposed to the TH, one of the reasons being repair, it is such a pain to remove the diodes if you TH solder them and you realize later, that you go the orientation wrong. where as SMD, it is just so much easier.
I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.
Comments on technique?
Whatever works for you is fine, I say.
What I do when soldering LEDs is to place a whole row of them in their holes, then use a long strip of masking tape to tape down the whole row of LEDs. Then I turn the PCB over, trim the legs, and solder. It's the same technique I use when soldering through hole diodes.
Infiniti, I had the exact same issue with the stabilizers when I mounted them after soldering all my diodes. Unfortunately I didn't realize it until after most of the switches were soldered as well and had to do some fancy stuff to remove them and flip them to the other side of the board. Worked out fine in the end though :thumb:
Infiniti, I had the exact same issue with the stabilizers when I mounted them after soldering all my diodes. Unfortunately I didn't realize it until after most of the switches were soldered as well and had to do some fancy stuff to remove them and flip them to the other side of the board. Worked out fine in the end though :thumb:
Okie dokie. I'll do that tomorrow. :thumb:
Out of curiosity, why did you solder the diodes to front of the PCB (the side facing the switches)? I think I did so because of the pads.
Hello! infiniti ! ;)
Nice Job! :thumb:
You prefer to sold Diodes on the front side of PCB.
Thanks sprit!
I was thinking about your comment...before soldering, I test fit some PCB mount Cherry MX switches and they fit with the diodes in front of the PCB. BUT I now realize that the diode should go on the back of the PCB since it interferes with the PCB mount stabilizers on Backspace, left shift, and right shift. :'(
Backspace:Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0197_esw.jpg)
Right ShiftShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0199_esw.jpg)
Left ShiftShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0201_esw.jpg)
I R NOOB.
So...even the through-hole diodes should be installed at the back of the PCB?
Infiniti, I had the exact same issue with the stabilizers when I mounted them after soldering all my diodes. Unfortunately I didn't realize it until after most of the switches were soldered as well and had to do some fancy stuff to remove them and flip them to the other side of the board. Worked out fine in the end though :thumb:
Okie dokie. I'll do that tomorrow. :thumb:
Out of curiosity, why did you solder the diodes to front of the PCB (the side facing the switches)? I think I did so because of the pads.
I don't quite remember. I believe I did it because jdcarpe had done the same for my JD40, which was the only other PCB I had with through-hole diodes andthe polarities were on the front of the PCB so it was easier to orient the diodes correctly(this isn't actually the case, so it must have been that first thing – I don't remember :P ).
After building my Phantom, I have made it a point never to solder the diodes on the front, for two reasons:
1. Possible interference with stabs
2. If I make a mistake, I can just heat up the two pads and remove the diode using a a needle-nose plier, which is almost impossible if you solder them on the front and then have a plate. To install them pack in, you can solder them like SMD, no problem, which I had to do as I got one diode wrong on my Phantom.
Looking forward to look at the complete thing :)
I'm waiting for my pcb from sprit as well. =D
Hello! infiniti ! ;)
Nice Job! :thumb:
You prefer to sold Diodes on the front side of PCB.
Thanks sprit!
I was thinking about your comment...before soldering, I test fit some PCB mount Cherry MX switches and they fit with the diodes in front of the PCB. BUT I now realize that the diode should go on the back of the PCB since it interferes with the PCB mount stabilizers on Backspace, left shift, and right shift. :'(
Backspace:Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0197_esw.jpg)
Right ShiftShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0199_esw.jpg)
Left ShiftShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-04-06b/IMG_0201_esw.jpg)
I R NOOB.
So...even the through-hole diodes should be installed at the back of the PCB?
Not always! But this PCB has quite complicate Diode positions, for ANSI + ISO enter, L-shift, 1x1 Backspace, 1.75x 1x R-shift.... Various Bottom row supports .
When You find problems w Stabilizers, You can solder those diodes on the backside of the PCB. ;)
I usually solder all SMD's on the backside as I posted on our GB. When the Front side is clear, thick 5mm plates can fit.
Thanks for posting this. I'm really enjoying watching your progress.
Great photos too by the way.
Yep, this should be a huge help for everyone about to assemble these :). I wish I had this resource before I assembled mine.
I think I need to have you do my 360 Corsa PCB :P
I love your build threads, looking forwards towards your final build :D.
I don't think I actually posted in this thread yet, but I am watching it for sure. Good luck, I cannot wait to start building mine, it will be my first keyboard I have built from the ground up :)
Great pictures, even if they are a bit Bob-less :)
Great log so far man! :thumb:
Just don't solder diodes at front face, it will be pain in the ass in case diodes decided to fail.
Going to be assembling mine Monday or Tuesday, I am excited :D
I'm doing diode and resistor soldering, should be fun.
Nice! It is fun...so fun I did it twice! :))
REMEMBER: It is a better idea to solder the diodes to the back of the PCB.
P.S. I had stickers cut yesterday so I'm just still waiting on the switches...
Eh eh the answer is in the op
- Cherry MX Clear Switches from MechanicalKeyboards.com (http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=597)
Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-05-11a/IMG_0652_esw.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20523800/GH%20Pictures/FaceW/2014-05-11a/IMG_0668_esw.jpg)
Looking good!
What made you choose to use an MX-Blue for your CapsLock / Control?
I learn from You! Clicky !! Blue on Capslock ;)Looking good!
What made you choose to use an MX-Blue for your CapsLock / Control?
Thanks! It's a blue stem with a clear spring. That way it's a little difficult to accidentally toggle the caps lock. The click also let's me know it's been pressed. ;D
Looking good!
What made you choose to use an MX-Blue for your CapsLock / Control?
Thanks! It's a blue stem with a clear spring. That way it's a little difficult to accidentally toggle the caps lock. The click also let's me know it's been pressed. ;D
Looking good!
What made you choose to use an MX-Blue for your CapsLock / Control?
Thanks! It's a blue stem with a clear spring. That way it's a little difficult to accidentally toggle the caps lock. The click also let's me know it's been pressed. ;D
Great ! Now are You into it's diverse Fucntions? :thumb:
Some kinf of numlock for FN which would turn part of your keyboard as a numpad maybe?
Just shooting ideas here, didn't have a look at the mapper tool.
I've ordered a PCB from Sprit, the SMS soldering thing is very scary to me (I only have a fixed watts iron and it can melt the pcb when it stays too close for too long).
I just notice you use 55g for the ergo clear. How's the feel on it? Does the switch stick? I was planning to go with this route but still contemplating on it. Another question, did you use a thin lube or thick lube? Did you both lube the slider and the legs of the stem?
I followed sprit's lube points (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.msg1068972#msg1068972):Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=34332.0;attach=38620;image)
and the Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0):Show Image(http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q603/magicmeatballs/Lube%20Guide/27c90ffd.jpg)
I used a 50-50 mix of Krytox GPL 206 grease and Krytox VPF 1506 oil. It's kinda thick
Some keys would stick when I pressed on them and released it very slowly. I relubed them and everything was fine.
The keys with stabilizer stuck (particularly my right shift) I lubed the switch and stabilizers some more but still had some sticking or slow rebound. It might be the shift or the stabilizer but I put in a clear spring in all the stabilized keys and called it a day.
P.S. A heavy Backspace and Enter is actually fun!
I have not seen an orange case like this. Looks good!
I have not seen an orange case like this. Looks good!
'because it's red. :)) Time to calibrate the monitor hehe
I have not seen an orange case like this. Looks good!
'because it's red. :)) Time to calibrate the monitor hehe
Maybe it through me off since your Ctrl caps are "reder" It's 2am too so that might have something to do with it too.