FILCO MAJESTOUCH 2 vs KUL ES-87 vs LEOPOLD 750R
I was introduced to the goodness of mechanical keyboard with Filco as my first board, and from there everything went spiral as I said goodbye to my wallet/cards bill at that point of time. I’ve acquired many boards including the old 700r, Ducky and other custom Korean boards along my board-ing time and yet I believe that Filco was unbeatable in term of build quality, sturdiness of the case, longevity and simplicity; it is just one type of pure “boardgasm”.
Until KUL and Leopold 750R was introduced, they are big contenders on Filco from my eyes and I’ve been reading pros and cons of those three boards compared among forums. Out of curiosity I decided to purchase a KUL ES-87 with green switch, and HendyZone from Mechanicalkeyboards.co.id was kind enough to lend me one of his 750R with blue switch for me to do the review, so kudos to him!
PackagingSo let’s start with how well the packaging of the boards are. One of the most important thing of pc part components from my point of view is how safe is the product to stay in one shape to get to the user.
From the feel, out of three KUL offers a better packaging overall, the box material seems to be thicker and not easily bend on pressure. They also put internal side barrier to make it sturdy during shipping.
What’s in the box?Filco Majestouch 2 Yellow edition TKL
- Keyboard w/cover
- Manual booklet
- Extra Lavender WASD set (Yellow edition Filco)
- USB to PS/2 Adapter
- Wire keycap puller (Not in picture)
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Leopold 750R
- Keyboard w/cover
- Manual Booklet
- Extra non windowed scroll lock key, off centered style caps lock key (though the stem is still in the middle) and space bar
- USB to PS/2 adapter
- Plastic keycap puller
- Detachable cable with “Leopold” Velcro
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KUL ES-87
- Keyboard w/cover
- Manual booklet
- Extra non-windowed esc and strange keycaps size of windowed caps lock, left ctrl , backspace and backslash
- USB to PS/2 adapter
- Plastic keycaps puller
- Detachable cable
- KUL sticker
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I’m impressed on how thoughtful these two newer competitors have to offer with their extras. However the Leopold impress me a little more with the off centered style caps lock, that might be because I’m a big fan of such caps lock style and I’m pretty sure there are people who has the same opinion. Though their keycaps pullers are a bit of a letdown, plastic just won’t do the job properly!
With cables, I can tell that they’re about the same quality yet KUL offers a longer cable of around 200cm while Leopold is around 180cm. Filco has the shortest of them all, at around 150cm it also does not offer any detachable option, they give you nice Velcro style strap like Leopold though.
Dip Switch and LED’s Filco = Conventional LED (Caps lock and Scroll Lock). No dip switch
KUL = LED’s on Esc, Caps Lock, Left Ctrl and Scroll Lock. Have dip switch
Leopold = LED’s on F5, Scroll Lock and Caps lock. No dip switch
Dip switches are really something for power users and only KUL offers them. I will not go through every dip switches available on KUL you can download the manuals here (
http://www.keyeduplabs.com/es-87.html) or see the picture below
But I can tell you that these (KUL) keyboards are made with what I think any possible scenario of either PC/MAC user; they have 8 switches with the 8th for “Future Expansion” switch. They really are planning to put more thoughts and updates for the future (as long as they still exist) and this really is a plus to be followed like any other brand such as Ducky or Razer with their ongoing firmware updates, very interesting indeed.
I’m having trouble with finding Leopold features since (what I think is) the Leopold 750R manual included is in KOREAN! Like seriously!
Feature wise, Filco really need to step up their game even just with Fn button functions to compete with these two newer boards or something better as plus point. People would not reject the option to control volumes or playback buttons.
Keycaps and typing experienceNow let’s move on to the keycaps, which what I think is one of the most important parts of this review. What really differ these boards from each other is their keycaps which would differentiate the user experience. I would have to emphasize that I am writing this review from a “clicky” user point of view, the KUL and Filco (modded) has green stock switch and the Leopold has stock blue switch.
Leopold offers a breakthrough 1.5mm PBT keyset with their keyboard; some might argue that PBT keyset is better than ABS, vice versa. But again from a “clicky” user point of view, a thick PBT would dampened the clickiness of a clicky switch; I know comparing the blues and greens are not really accurate but I do have a numpad with stock blues and what I think is an even thicker PBT set on it to compare. The Leopold with blue switch have a clickiness level in between blue switch with thicker PBT and with ABS.
Now this is when the Sound Absorbing Pad in the Leopold comes in play. I can assure you that they do make a noticeable difference to the click of blue switch, though I’m not sure why you want to dampened the click of blues/greens when people like me are searching for even more audible switch click for satisfaction. Get a linear/tactile switch or even get the damn O-ring in it if you want it quieter.
I can’t say much about Filco caps, they’re quite outdated in my opinion. The feel of Filco caps are too smooth for my liking but between those three brands I personally do prefer KUL’s one since it has more satisfying rough surface on the caps; and that when we put PBT over ABS argument aside.
However comparing the greens KUL and Filco, the Filco do put a more audible clicky noise with their caps. As I’ve told you a thin keycaps would allow the click of a clicky switch to be louder (more hollow room in the caps); but the case itself might come as a factor in this matter (different case material, hollowness of the case, PCB placement,etc)
Video : Filco vs KUL ES-87 (Green switch)
Last but not least, the profile. We all know nothing beats a Cherry profile keyset, if you are still not knowing it; give yourself some help in the forum and get one of those cherry profile set. I would say no more since only Leopold offers Cherry profile set between those three brands.
Video: Filco vs Leopold 1.5mm PBT vs Aftermarket PBT
Also tested the difference the absorbing pas made on blues
Lastly, I found that KUL has put some pad on the right shift which is very strange. I assume this would reduce the wobble of the right shift which might dampen the sound a bit.
CaseI love aluminium stuff too much and it’s hard for me to judge a plastic base case. But I can assure you that these keyboards are well built and compare to other “gaming” or “chinese” or “unknown” brand, they are on a different level. If I have to choose, I have to say that I like KUL case by a little more; KUL case is not boring, it has some beautiful side curves and it has less flex compare to the other two. Funny enough the pad placement on KUL and Leopold are similar! Copy pasting? Well I don’t know. But again I have to say that the adjustable case on Filco is less sturdy and solid compare to the other two.
The cable route under the board are only available on KUL and Leopold, while Leopold offers side cable route on each end in addition to the middle one; the KUL one also has a side cable route but the exit of the cable are on the top end of each side. KUL approach make more sense to me since I rarely seen anyone who have cables coming out from the side; I used to have this problem when I was still using my stock monitor stand where a middle cable route would just hit the stand and a side route would just make it more awkward.
Angle of the boards, they are very similar yet the Leopold is more steep by a little. You won’t feel the difference unless you have a very sensitive wrist.
All of them have very similar rough finish surface and thick plastic feel. I have not yet found any preference regarding the finish on all these three board they are all good.
AccessoriesAnother point to look at is the availability of after-market accessories either from the same manufacturer or third one. I can see that people are moving towards “changing” their keyboard case for aesthetic nowadays and many third party manufacturers would offer the option.
I happen to have an after-market aluminum case from TEX. Well, it has a pretty hefty price tag on it, but once you go aluminium, you won’t go back to any stock plastic case. The case is a beauty but I find that they are lack on QC. Mine came with a bit of anodizing fault but installation is very easy and my only problem with the case is that I have to put some dampening foam under the PCB . This is because a clicky switch would create a high PING noise due to some hollow space in between the PCB and the case. The TEX case also provides detachable cable features in it.
KUL also offers some case replacement option with different color. I find that the replacement top case or the stock top case has some flex on them, but you can’t expect more from a plastic case. I chose to buy the red one and man it’s a beauty. Installation was very easy and the website offers a step by step installation process. They even say it’s ok to void the warranty sticker when replacing the top case. (
http://www.keyeduplabs.com/assets/KUL_ES-87_Topcase_HowTo_Rev1.pdf)
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Unfortunately at the time of writing this review, there is no aftermarket or extra accessories for the Leopold.
ConclusionLet me start with Filco, they are good quality and used to be the King of the Thrones. But I really do think that they have to step up their game to compete with Leopold and KUL. What makes it still lovable is the option to acquire after-market aluminium case which makes it more luxurious but with a high price tag on it.
So that left us with KUL and Leopold; it’s very hard to choose between the two. They both have pros and cons of themselves. Moreover with the price, based on the time of writing this review a KUL is available on Elitekeyboards.com at USD 129 where Leopold 750R can be acquired from mechanicalkeyboards.co.id / HendyZone (same) at the same price!. It’s more like asking which one do you love more, mom or dad.
But setting that aside; I personally as clicky switch user would buy KUL due to their plus point on Dip Switches and they feel more sturdy for me. The cable route also works well for my liking and I don’t care about absorbing pad as long as they won’t produce “PING” metal noise like the one I have with my TEX case. But again they’re both is what I think is the boards worthy of spending at this time.
Sorry for the long post, here’s a picture of a kitten
