[GB] LZ GH V2 : [Completed]

[wholypantalones]

I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.

I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.

Any suggestions? 

A little late, but I posted this a while back. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583

[Helldrop]

(Attachment Link)

Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.

Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. 

What color did the case have before?

Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.

Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. 

Here are some pics.

[CommonCurt]

(Attachment Link)

Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.

Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. 

What color did the case have before?

Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.

Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. 

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pics.

Dat red with grey cerikote bottom looks great. Are you using a brass, or aluminum plate?

[Helldrop]

A brass plate. It's the same as yours.

[CommonCurt]

A brass plate. It's the same as yours.

I got a brass & aluminum plate for mine.
Was just wondering if you attempted to cerikote the plate also.

[LifeZ]

(Attachment Link)

Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.

Awesome 
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. 

What color did the case have before?

Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.

Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. 

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pics.

[CommonCurt]

(Attachment Link)

Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.

Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. 

What color did the case have before?

Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.

Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. 

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pics.

One last question. 
When you got it re-anodized.  Did they try to remove some of the old ano first, or did they just re-ano over the grey like it was?
I would think they would have had to remove the PVD coating before Cerakoting the brass?

[Helldrop]

I dunno exactly since I didn’t witness the process. As for re-anodizing, they conducted sanding or resurfacing work before re-anodizing in order to make the surface stuck well. This work seems essential for perfect anodizing. The cerakote need to do sanding, but I heard it’s certainly not essential but better if done.

[CommonCurt]

I dunno exactly since I didn’t witness the process. As for re-anodizing, they conducted sanding or resurfacing work before re-anodizing in order to make the surface stuck well. This work seems essential for perfect anodizing. The cerakote need to do sanding, but I heard it’s certainly not essential but better if done.

Yeah,  when I asked my local ANO shop the guy said that he basically just ruffs up the finish so the new ANO will stick.
I've really wanted to get a couple of my other kustoms re-anoed, but been nervous to because of the horror stories I've read about the new finish coming out blotchy, or uneven.
I just need to suck it up and go do it.  If it turns out that bad I guess I could always just get the whole case cerakoted.

[Helldrop]

I dunno exactly since I didn’t witness the process. As for re-anodizing, they conducted sanding or resurfacing work before re-anodizing in order to make the surface stuck well. This work seems essential for perfect anodizing. The cerakote need to do sanding, but I heard it’s certainly not essential but better if done.

Yeah,  when I asked my local ANO shop the guy said that he basically just ruffs up the finish so the new ANO will stick.
I've really wanted to get a couple of my other kustoms re-anoed, but been nervous to because of the horror stories I've read about the new finish coming out blotchy, or uneven.
I just need to suck it up and go do it.  If it turns out that bad I guess I could always just get the whole case cerakoted.

The re-anodizing always carries some risks like what you said. If it fails, the cerakote can be the best alternative. It’s possible to cerakote on the failed re-anodized surface, and has even less chance of failure than re-ano does. Gook luck with your challenge, man.

[Lansky]

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pics.

Looks really nice. Almost makes me want to look into having the brass on my board coated too. 

[simon5858]

I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.

Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?

[jaymaikan]

I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.

Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?

Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?

[simon5858]

I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.

Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?

Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?

Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...

[wholypantalones]

I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.

Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?

Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?

Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...

Is your usb cable plugged into a hub or directly into the computer?

Why am I getting a communication error with device?

Plug your USB cable directly into your computer instead of a USB hub.

Replug your usb and try flashing firmware again.

More here => https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583

[simon5858]

I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.

Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?

Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?

Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...

Is your usb cable plugged into a hub or directly into the computer?

Why am I getting a communication error with device?

Plug your USB cable directly into your computer instead of a USB hub.

Replug your usb and try flashing firmware again.

More here => https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583

I have now tried with 3 different cables, and tried all the ports on my PC. I am not using a hub. Same error every time: "Error reading page size: Communication error with device".

Read through the guides and saw OracleKev's advice to press "short (~)" to enter bootloader mode and then flash afterwards. I'm unable to get windows to recognize the PCB as a HIDBOOT device though. Have you had any succes with doing it that way?

UPDATE:
Changed input language to english and then plugged the pcb in while holding "short (~)". Thought i had entered bootloader mode, but device was still recognized as L3 and not HIDBOOT. I'm getting the same communications error when flashing, but now i am unable to connect using jigon. It simply closes when i'm pressing connect. The RGB's light up, but don't rotate, and i am unable to type on the board. Did i brick the PCB, and now have to have it reflashed with an ISP?

[MajorKoos]

I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.

I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.

Any suggestions? 

Couple of things to check:
Is your OS set to English US?
Is it the only keyboard that's plugged in?
Is your phone plugged in?
If you download a fresh copy of the JigOn software, launch it and hit connect does it download the keymap or does everything stay gray?
If you connect and then switch to notepad and start typing what output do you get?

My OS is set to English US, yes.
It's the only board that's plugged in, my phone is not plugged in.
The JigOn software looks like this after connecting: https://i.imgur.com/zFZdSYo.png
Typing in Notepad gives me this output:
"åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g

So I guess that might be causing the issue. Not sure why it's showing up like that when my keyboard and OS is set to en-US.

EDIT: I just realized that I still had the Danish keyboard layout added in the language menu, apparently it wasn't enough to just switch to the en-US layout, I had to remove the Danish layout. Now it works! 

Perhaps this?

[simon5858]

Perhaps this?

Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.

[MajorKoos]

Perhaps this?

Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.

It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.

From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise.  If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty.  What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom.  Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.

So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?

[simon5858]

Perhaps this?

Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.

It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.

From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise.  If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty.  What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom.  Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.

So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?

Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.

When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.

UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.

Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.

I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.

[mustcode]

Well, I ordered my GHv2 with an extra pcb, and I can tell you that while one of my pcb is working perfectly, the other one is acting in a similar way as yours. Random LEDs would light up when I plug it in, sometimes it can register a couple of wrong keys, sometimes it couldn't register anything. JigOn would crash as soon as I try to connect to it. So, looks like you got a similar defective pcb as mine. Visually I couldn't see anything wrong with the pcb, so it looks like factory defect, could be a batch of a component, or some screw up during the firmware flash... Hopefully these kind of defect doesn't happen often... If I didn't ordered the extra pcb, I'd have been really frustrated.

edit: fix bad quote

[HPE1000]

Guess I should check my pcb soon since I might not build mine for a few months

[CommonCurt]

Guess I should check my pcb soon since I might not build mine for a few months

+1  same here.

[82d28a]

Same here...

[Signature]

What version of JigOn are you all using?

[dorf]

What version of JigOn are you all using?

170419

[Puddsy]

remember to update the firmware before you do anything else

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

[dorf]

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?

[Puddsy]

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?

this issue has been documented as far back as MIRA SE, but existed before then with far less prevalence

it's been known for a while that leeku PCBs aren't the best quality, but they get used in a lot of TKLs because of how easy they are to get in GB-size quantities

with the H87 and whatever that other new TKL pcb is, i suspect that we'll be seeing a lot less of the TX87 in the future

this isn't to say that the TX87 is bad, i actually really like it becauase jigon is a very intuitive (if slightly buggy) piece of software that's good for newer hobbyists, and it does what most people need it to do very well

[dorf]

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?

this issue has been documented as far back as MIRA SE, but existed before then with far less prevalence

it's been known for a while that leeku PCBs aren't the best quality, but they get used in a lot of TKLs because of how easy they are to get in GB-size quantities

with the H87 and whatever that other new TKL pcb is, i suspect that we'll be seeing a lot less of the TX87 in the future

this isn't to say that the TX87 is bad, i actually really like it becauase jigon is a very intuitive (if slightly buggy) piece of software that's good for newer hobbyists (though QMK is far more powerful), and it does what 95% of people need it to do very well

Thank you. New TKL pcb? Link?
My hopes are up for the h87a.

[hervuli]

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?

Don't know if it's documented per se, but I know that at this point I won't buy any board that uses a Leeku PCB unless I know there's an alternative that will fit; e.g. GON, H87, C3-LDN etc. I've had issues with Leeku PCBs in at least three separate boards (and I pretty strongly dislike JigOn but that's a separate issue).

[HPE1000]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

[Signature]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

[HPE1000]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

[Puddsy]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something

[HPE1000]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something

That would be where I would get it lol

[OracleKev]

Perhaps this?

Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.

It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.

From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise.  If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty.  What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom.  Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.

So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?

Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.

When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.

UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.

Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.

I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.

There has been reports like this here and there (flaky connection, firmware reset does not work).
Given frequency and types of users reporting, it doesn't sound like they are novice mistakes (multiple L3 boards, connected through USB hub, etc.).
My guess is somehow some MCUs were programmed wrong.  My understanding is MCUs get prepped (pre-programmed) before they are supplied to SMT bin.

Someone needs to try reloading bootloader.

In the end, the PCB is pretty straightforward, consisting of off the shelf parts.  I never heard of circuit prints gone wrong (this sort of basics are the strengths of Korean PCBs IMO) on Leeku PCBs.  Even if you brick the PCB, replacing MCU and reprogramming it fixes it.

[OracleKev]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something

That would be where I would get it lol

Here is another alternative (there should be others in a87 form factor with stabs facing the same way)
http://winkeyless.com/product/a-87b-pcb/
It's not listed on the English website, so you will have to message them.

[82d28a]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something

That would be where I would get it lol

Just curious if the north or south side Mini connection will fit the GH 2.  I haven't checked mine yet. Based on what I read 1up only has the south side that will not fit LZ. I hope I am wrong, since it is nice to have options.

[OracleKev]

Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?

Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support

Awesome, thanks! Might do that

Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something

That would be where I would get it lol

Just curious if the north or south side Mini connection will fit the GH 2.  I haven't checked mine yet. Based on what I read 1up only has the south side that will not fit LZ. I hope I am wrong, since it is nice to have options.

Top side.  Bottom side typically for acryllic board.

[HPE1000]

Isn't that USB port reversible though? Obv you'd need to desolder it but it looks like you can flip that port if needed.

[wholypantalones]

remember to update the firmware before you do anything else

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

I currently have 5+ tkls with TKL87 L3 PCBS (white and black versions) and there's no issue that is plaguing anything that I've noticed over two years.

What seems to be the plague issue you speak of? It also has nothing to do with a TX87, a aluminum housing that kin designs and sells.

[simon5858]

Perhaps this?

Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.

It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.

From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise.  If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty.  What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom.  Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.

So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?

Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.

When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.

UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.

Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.

I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.

There has been reports like this here and there (flaky connection, firmware reset does not work).
Given frequency and types of users reporting, it doesn't sound like they are novice mistakes (multiple L3 boards, connected through USB hub, etc.).
My guess is somehow some MCUs were programmed wrong.  My understanding is MCUs get prepped (pre-programmed) before they are supplied to SMT bin.

Someone needs to try reloading bootloader.

In the end, the PCB is pretty straightforward, consisting of off the shelf parts.  I never heard of circuit prints gone wrong (this sort of basics are the strengths of Korean PCBs IMO) on Leeku PCBs.  Even if you brick the PCB, replacing MCU and reprogramming it fixes it.

So you suggest that i try my hand at reloading the bootloader with an ISP flasher? I can't seem to get anything else to work. JigOn is crashing no matter what i try, and i keep getting the communications error when flashing the firmware via USB.

[MajorKoos]

So you suggest that i try my hand at reloading the bootloader with an ISP flasher? I can't seem to get anything else to work. JigOn is crashing no matter what i try, and i keep getting the communications error when flashing the firmware via USB.

If you just want to flash firmware onto the keyboard you can use Atmel Flip to program the MCU.
It would be interesting to see if that works.
if it doesn't it will at least rule out the Jigon app and narrow this down a bit more.

I should have asked earlier - did you put LEDs in the switches too?
That's the only time I've ever had to reflash the bootloader on a L3 PCB.
It drew too much power and corrupted the firmware.

[simon5858]

FINAL UPDATE:

Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.

I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.

I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.

I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.

What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.

[Puddsy]

remember to update the firmware before you do anything else

if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so

I currently have 5+ tkls with TKL87 L3 PCBS (white and black versions) and there's no issue that is plaguing anything that I've noticed over two years.

What seems to be the plague issue you speak of? It also has nothing to do with a TX87, a aluminum housing that kin designs and sells.

If you go through all the TKL GB threads that use the PCB there are always a few people complaining of issues, and I've heard of more on slack.

Personally I've never had any problems with the TKL L3. It's not limited to any specific version as far as I can tell. Something to do with the voltage regulation chip.

[MajorKoos]

FINAL UPDATE:

Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.

I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.

I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.

I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.

What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.

Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.

Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.

[simon5858]

FINAL UPDATE:

Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.

I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.

I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.

I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.

What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.

Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.

Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.

Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.

[MajorKoos]

FINAL UPDATE:

Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.

I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.

I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.

I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.

What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.

Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.

Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.

Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.

Windows uses the same HID driver for your mouse so the driver itself was not corrupted.
It does however keep track of devices which were previously plugged in so that if you plug it back in any settings you configured will persist.
Sometimes those old entries can cause issues when plugging the device back in and the only recourse is to remove those old devices.
My money says that's what got borked.
I wonder if it has something to do with the language settings on PC at the time the keyboard was first connected so there was something cached in the registry Jigon couldn't deal with.

http://ilantz.com/2010/04/11/delete-old-removed-or-disconnected-device-drivers/
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/315539/device-manager-does-not-display-devices-that-are-not-connected

[dorf]

FINAL UPDATE:

Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.

I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.

I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.

I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.

What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.

Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.

Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.

Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.

Windows uses the same HID driver for your mouse so the driver itself was not corrupted.
It does however keep track of devices which were previously plugged in so that if you plug it back in any settings you configured will persist.
Sometimes those old entries can cause issues when plugging the device back in and the only recourse is to remove those old devices.
My money says that's what got borked.
I wonder if it has something to do with the language settings on PC at the time the keyboard was first connected so there was something cached in the registry Jigon couldn't deal with.

http://ilantz.com/2010/04/11/delete-old-removed-or-disconnected-device-drivers/
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/315539/device-manager-does-not-display-devices-that-are-not-connected

+1 on this. As I said before I see more issues among non-english users.