Author Topic: [GB] Southpaw Extended 65% - Remanufacturing - 80% Complete  (Read 48025 times)

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Offline MC_kb

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  • Location: EU
Tell me about it. I bought some Zealios with the GB but I think they will be instantly traded for some sweet Box Royals to go on the Southpaw  ;D

Offline Stagione

  • Posts: 45
Tell me about it. I bought some Zealios with the GB but I think they will be instantly traded for some sweet Box Royals to go on the Southpaw  ;D

Let me know if you do. I have some Box Royals and I'm not sure if I'm a fan

Offline a_ak57

  • Posts: 477
So mine actually arrived today.  Everything looks good, case is nice and the plate seems fine.  Only thing is that I don't seem to have any screws to mount the PCB/plate to the case, just the 4 to mount the risers.  Do you have the specs for those screws so I could stop by a store and get some?

Offline reconsiderit

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So mine actually arrived today.  Everything looks good, case is nice and the plate seems fine.  Only thing is that I don't seem to have any screws to mount the PCB/plate to the case, just the 4 to mount the risers.  Do you have the specs for those screws so I could stop by a store and get some?

Really sorry that those didn't make it into your order. If you want I can ship you some but if you prefer just to go out and grab some, they are m2x4mm or m2x5mm
« Last Edit: Sat, 02 June 2018, 04:21:20 by reconsiderit »

Offline lki2vna

  • Posts: 1
Hey, loving the bent plate so far. I'm putting together my second one and installing leds on this one. The orientation of the leds seems the opposite of what I would've expected. They only turn on if I put the longer leg through the square hole, does that seem right? Just checking before I solder them all in.

Offline reconsiderit

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Hey, loving the bent plate so far. I'm putting together my second one and installing leds on this one. The orientation of the leds seems the opposite of what I would've expected. They only turn on if I put the longer leg through the square hole, does that seem right? Just checking before I solder them all in.

Yeah. That seems about right. The longer side should be inserted into the hole with the square pad.

Offline reconsiderit

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Alright, I got the new plates in today and did a test fit. Everything fits and all they layouts are good to go. The file is below for anyone who wants to have the plate cut themselves

https://goo.gl/EEFCBt





Edit: I forgot about all the ISO people. I'll have a plate for those that want ISO up in a little bit.
« Last Edit: Sat, 02 June 2018, 23:10:43 by reconsiderit »

Online Nigolski

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so bummed i went with raw case instead of black or purple :(
Kira80 soon™ | Southpaw 65+ soon™ | Duck LightSaver v3 | Brick 60 | Cherry g80-1800 | Acrylic NerD | Niu Mini more to come..

Offline PRkeys

  • Posts: 55
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so bummed i went with raw case instead of black or purple :(
Powder coating is always an easy, inexpensive option. That is why I chose raw, to get the color I want later.

Offline a_ak57

  • Posts: 477
So I'm having some trouble with TMK.  Here are the layers I'm using, and a screenshot of my TMK settings:

Layer 0
Layer 1
TMK

First problem: Layer 1 is always on, but not entirely correctly.  My Delete key for some reason is registering a combination of Ins/PgUp/PgDn/Right Arrow.  My Volume buttons do nothing, but I'm willing to chalk that up to it being something that wasn't going to work anyway.  But otherwise as mentioned the F row, Print/Scroll/Pause, etc are always the active keys.
Second problem:  Caps Lock does turn on just its LED when pressed, but Num Lock turns on the entire board of LEDs.  Scroll Lock does nothing with the LEDs, though I don't particularly care about that.

It is perhaps worth nothing that the stock layout was different than expected too.  My Home/End were just PgUp/PgDn on both layers and Delete was still weird (forget exactly how already but I didn't simply have Delete/Insert).  My 1u Win and the Fn key did nothing, and the actual Fn key was where my 1u Ctrl is.

Offline reconsiderit

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So I'm having some trouble with TMK.  Here are the layers I'm using, and a screenshot of my TMK settings:

Layer 0
Layer 1
TMK

First problem: Layer 1 is always on, but not entirely correctly.  My Delete key for some reason is registering a combination of Ins/PgUp/PgDn/Right Arrow.  My Volume buttons do nothing, but I'm willing to chalk that up to it being something that wasn't going to work anyway.  But otherwise as mentioned the F row, Print/Scroll/Pause, etc are always the active keys.
Second problem:  Caps Lock does turn on just its LED when pressed, but Num Lock turns on the entire board of LEDs.  Scroll Lock does nothing with the LEDs, though I don't particularly care about that.

It is perhaps worth nothing that the stock layout was different than expected too.  My Home/End were just PgUp/PgDn on both layers and Delete was still weird (forget exactly how already but I didn't simply have Delete/Insert).  My 1u Win and the Fn key did nothing, and the actual Fn key was where my 1u Ctrl is.

I can't see anything wrong in TKG or anywhere else so I'll just recommend checking a few things.

If you haven't tried flashing it a second time, that's where I would start. If you've tried that, I would go ahead and update the driver with zaidg and use the offline tkg toolkit.

Offline a_ak57

  • Posts: 477
So I tried that and it's still jacked up, but now in a different way (Delete is Print/Ins/Del/Left, Home is Delete, and more fun).  I'm gonna have to study the PCB closely tomorrow because I feel like I had to have inadvertently dripped solder somewhere on/near the controller for this level of shenanigans to be going on.  Worst case scenario I do have a second PCB to try out, though I'm not super interested in desoldering all these LEDs and switches.

Offline graefeln

  • Posts: 259
  • Location: Wisconsin
Hoping for a little help programming it here if any can.

First off, the keymap seems to work fine in regards to how everything is pressed and whatnot - it's really just the LEDs (in-switch) I don't understand.  Here's how I currently have it set up:


As you can probably make out, I was hoping Fn1 and Fn2 would change the brightness and that Fn3 would toggle the LEDs on/off. None of those three seem to do anything at all. Fn0 does bring it to the Layer1 properly (F-keys work).
Now, when I press the num lock key, instead of just that key lighting up, the entire board does (caps lock seems to function properly - just that one LED when it is on). I was thinking maybe I had the LED boxes pm tkg.io setup improperly and/or don't really understand the 'Backlight action' mappings.

Any help/advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.


Edit: So, I got the in-switch LED layer to work by assigning it to LED1 (couldn't get it to work on any of the others). LED2 is still Caps Lock and works - but if I move it, it doesn't seem to anymore either.

Further edit: It also seems like I must have LED4 set to RGB LED if I want the underside to work (personally, I don't care about those). If I assign LED2 to Num Lock, it works - but it lights up where the Caps Lock LED would be. Still haven't figured out how to get an LED to light up for the Num Lock position.
« Last Edit: Tue, 05 June 2018, 08:24:58 by graefeln »

Offline HOBI3CAT

  • Posts: 35
  • Location: Charlotte, NC
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Finally got my bent plate kit in! I'm excited to build it :) And the mis-matched bezel sizes don't really bother me at all

Offline dankdesire

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Finally got my bent plate kit in! I'm excited to build it :) And the mis-matched bezel sizes don't really bother me at all

Please post pictures, I want to see more of this awesomness  :D

Offline HOBI3CAT

  • Posts: 35
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Finally got my bent plate kit in! I'm excited to build it :) And the mis-matched bezel sizes don't really bother me at all

Please post pictures, I want to see more of this awesomness  :D

I'm about to head to the airport actually... will have to post pics next week!

Offline reconsiderit

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Just wanted to update everyone on the rework/remanufacturing situation, but at the moment, I'm waiting to get money back from the manufacturer. Once that goes through, I'll organize production with the factory that I have on hand. Production won't take the full 1-2 months as stated in the email/post as there's no more middleman, but I'm gonna stay on the conservative side seeing that I've missed a number of dates I've promised with the GB.

As far as order fufiliment is concerned, it's moving forward slower than expected. A lot of things have come up recently but I'm going to move the ship date for the next batch out to Monday the 11th as I haven't had time to pack as many orders with everything that's come up.

Online OfTheWild

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Cool thanks for the status update.
-Dana

Offline THRILLHOIAF

  • Posts: 147
Thread is seriously lacking completed build pictures

Bent plate kit
GMK Plum
Gateron Browns
Cherry stabilizers





pretty easy build, aligning the switches in the plate was a little tough for the bottom row, start with the corners and solder them in for some stability and then work your way inward.

Offline ktrezzi

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Germany
Thank you for the update @reconsiderit


Cool build also! How is the flex of the bent plate? Is it stiff & stable?

Offline THRILLHOIAF

  • Posts: 147
Thank you for the update @reconsiderit


Cool build also! How is the flex of the bent plate? Is it stiff & stable?

solid as hell. feels more sturdy than my WASD

Offline bmilcs

  • Posts: 625
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  • bryan | bmilcs
Apologies to you Mr. Reconsiderit. Seems like a major pain in the ass that you're dealing with
  
_ TOKYO60  #1
___ KBD75  #1 #2 #3 #4
____ ES87  #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
______ GB  SOUTHPAW.65 TGR.JANE.V2-#40

Offline kwerdenker

  • Posts: 12
@reconsiderit Did you ever get around to that ISO plate? Found a possible source for brass plates and wanted to give it a try.

Offline reconsiderit

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@reconsiderit Did you ever get around to that ISO plate? Found a possible source for brass plates and wanted to give it a try.

I'll drop it in the discord shortly.

Offline reconsiderit

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Quick update  --  6/17/18

A large number of people should have kits in hand now as I have pretty much wrapped up orders that need to be shipped out to customers. I am still waiting on a refund from the mfg and will submit the order to the new factory when I have the money in hand.

I will have b-stock available for purchase this Wednesday at 12:00am PDT if anyone is interested in a kit. The website is back up and you can check prices there. As for those who have filled out the google form, it will be FCFS as I do not have time to process every single order and invoice everyone. Those who have filled out the form will have pre-sale access to the album of kits so they can look over and see which one that they would like before it goes live.

As for programming, I haven't had the time to throw together a proper one so here's one that I've cobbled together real quick below.


---


Programming

Basic programming utilizes a combination of the TKG compiler, Keyboard layout editor, and an optional TKG toolkit. Note that you need to use kai.tkg.io to program. NOT tkg.io as it does not have a preset for this board. You will also need to download the TKG chrome extention if you're going to flash directly from the website to the board. Also note that you may need to update the driver using Zadig.

1)  Compile your layout in KLE. I've included a preset version so you aren't wasting time putting the actual layout together. Keep in mind that TKG only recognizes the labels that are listed on the website. Place FN keys with labels that allow you to differentiate them where you would like functions such as layers, LEDs, and macros placed. Don't forget your spacebar label.
Layout is here:  http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/0e4e47b7aceafb8fae879d4b890981f7
Key labels are here: https://kai.tkg.io/#help

2)  Set up TKG. The top section labeled general should look like this



3)  Take the raw data from KLE and put it into kai.tkg.io. Layer mode should be set to normal unless you know what you're doing. If the box is outlined in red, it means that there's something wrong either either step 2 or step 1. This usually is an issue with labels.

4)  Set up the FN section. This should be relatively straightforward. RGB LEDs are under the section that says built in function

5)  Set up the LED section.
The first row labeled LED1 is for your backlighting. Set the binding to none and check only the box that says backlight.
The second row labeled LED2 is for your caps lock LED.
The third row labeled LED3 is for your numlock LED
The fourth row labeled LED4 is for your RGB backlight. Set that to active high.



6) Now reset the board by moving a magnet over the reset switch or by connecting the two pads if you've opted to snip it off. It should now enter bootloader mode and show up on tkg if you have the extension installed on chrome. You can also use TKG toolkit for this step. Note that TKG will not compile or flash if there is something that doesn't make sense in the layout. Check if the later box is outlined in red and click it to see any problems that you need to resolve.
« Last Edit: Sun, 17 June 2018, 21:50:23 by reconsiderit »

Offline Pennywise359

  • Posts: 17
2 questions. Are there gonna be any extras. And are there any alternatives? It does not have to be 60%, all I need is a numpad on the left side.

Offline euphxenos

  • Posts: 155
  • Location: Fremont, CA, USA
2 questions. Are there gonna be any extras. And are there any alternatives? It does not have to be 60%, all I need is a numpad on the left side.

Did you see the bit about b-stock extras going up for sale on Wednesday?  You might also want to take a look at the interest check for his upcoming Southpaw Full Size:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94506.0

Offline Pennywise359

  • Posts: 17
Ohh my bad, I did not notice the very last post. I thought all the important infrmation is on the top. I really hope to get the b stock. A full size keyboard is little bit too much for me. Thanks.

Offline Harms

  • Posts: 306
  • Location: Canada
Where will the b stock be going up for sale? Like what website? Thank you :).

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk


Offline kiwi99

  • that's a gnarly dookie
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Where will the b stock be going up for sale? Like what website? Thank you :).

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk

they'll be up for sale on his website switchplate.co, there is already a store link there with all the options that will be available. (it says sold out because its just not opened yet for ordering) it can be found here. https://switchplate.co/collections/parts-and-components/products/southpaw-65-extended-b-stock

Offline Harms

  • Posts: 306
  • Location: Canada
Where will the b stock be going up for sale? Like what website? Thank you :).

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk

they'll be up for sale on his website switchplate.co, there is already a store link there with all the options that will be available. (it says sold out because its just not opened yet for ordering) it can be found here. https://switchplate.co/collections/parts-and-components/products/southpaw-65-extended-b-stock
Wow thank you so much kind sir!. Hopefully I'am able to snag an extra when it opens  :)

Offline Fewestapollo75

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Is there a file to cut an Alps plate?

Offline reconsiderit

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Is there a file to cut an Alps plate?

I'm working on it at the moment. I hope to have it ready sometime this week.

File for the universal MX plate is below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_zVr-3tXYdJjvb4ucT9RbgrzeHj1VOdt/view?usp=sharing

Offline Pennywise359

  • Posts: 17
The B stock sale has started way too early, at 11:40 there were only 4 kits left. Well, lucky me I barely woke up at 11:30 and decided to check sale status. Thanks to reconsiderit for making my dream to have a keyboard with numpad on the left come true. Also I got 2 questions. Will I need to solder anything else then switches andis it possible to use Kailh PCB Sockets with it?
« Last Edit: Wed, 20 June 2018, 14:05:07 by Pennywise359 »

Offline reconsiderit

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The B stock sale has started way too early, at 11:40 there were only 4 kits left. Well, lucky me I barely woke up at 11:30 and decided to check sale status. Thanks to reconsiderit for making my dream to have a keyboard with numpad on the left come true. Also I got 2 questions. Will I need to solder anything else then switches andis it possible to use Kailh PCB Sockets with it?

You need to resolder the reset switch if you bought the version with the alu case or just clip it and treat it as a jumper. As for Kailh hotswap sockets, those require a special PCB specifically designed for those.

Offline Doonagoowin

  • Posts: 4
Guys I need help with my Southpaw. Hopefully I didn't completely kill it...

After building it, it worked fine. I tried to get some custom layouts on there and figured hey, making it work on QMK should be pretty easy.
I set up the layouts/layers through KLE, imported the raw data into KBFirmware, then downloaded the source codes.

After flashing, the computer AND keyboard went haywire. I had to restart the computer to get it working properly. Same issues came up if I plugged the keyboard back in.
I finally managed to flash the default layout on there after downloading and using TKG Toolkit (I can't get it to flash on kai.tkg.io for some reason)
Only half the modifiers work, numpad doesn't work, bottom row is shifted one to the left (pressing actual Z results in X).

Have I doomed the Kimera? :(

Offline a_ak57

  • Posts: 477
So I finally got around to trying out the second PCB I ordered, and it's working (other than NumLock LED not toggling with the button a la Caps Lock, but I don't really care too much about that at this point).  Guessing I must have damaged the first PCB in some fashion. 

Offline Doonagoowin

  • Posts: 4
I finally managed to get it to work this morning!

a-ak57, not sure if this would help you, but it worked for me.
Tkg-master-toolkit has a util.bat file that will allow you to erase the EEPROM.
Afterwards I was able to flash the .eep file I downloaded from tkg.io and it finally worked.
Not sure what was leftover even after multiple flashes, but I had to completely wipe it to fix it.

Offline reconsiderit

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I finally managed to get it to work this morning!

a-ak57, not sure if this would help you, but it worked for me.
Tkg-master-toolkit has a util.bat file that will allow you to erase the EEPROM.
Afterwards I was able to flash the .eep file I downloaded from tkg.io and it finally worked.
Not sure what was leftover even after multiple flashes, but I had to completely wipe it to fix it.

There's someone working on a kimera port for QMK at the moment, but I can't remember their name off the top of my head. AFAIK, there were some issues with some of the constraints while using the physical controller with QMK. I can't recall what it was or who it was though. If you do some digging you should be able to find it.

Offline Jimmyjams

  • Posts: 2
Board just arrive yesterday I'm excited to build it, this is my first build so I'd appreciate some help.

I got the bent plate and I'm wondering how to attach the PCB, acrylic diffuser, and plate all together. The board came with a bag of several screws which I would assume would go through the holes in the plate, PCB, and then finally the diffuser, connecting them all together, but the screw heads seem to be too small for the plate and just pass right through the holes. Is there something else I need to do?

Offline blue sky

  • Posts: 7
Can't wait to have news from Candykeys. I realy love the first Photo/feedback :)

Offline Pennywise359

  • Posts: 17
Another question. Just to confirm, according to what I saw this layout should be supported, right?
Thanks again!

*UPDT*
Or this

« Last Edit: Wed, 27 June 2018, 17:12:17 by Pennywise359 »

Offline reconsiderit

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Another question. Just to confirm, according to what I saw this layout should be supported, right?
Thanks again!
Show Image

*UPDT*
Or this
Show Image


Those layouts aren't going to work. There's the issue with compat with the plates that I currently have on hand.

Original layouts are here: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/fa8522aa315313aed6b864d460d9d67a
Right now with the plates that I have on hand, the bottom row is limited to these here: https://imgur.com/zfFomZP

Offline spennnyy

  • Posts: 1
Looking for some guidance on how to program a function layer for the southpaw. I followed the guide provided by reconsiderit and have tried the following configuration:

kai.tkg.io settings:
198832-0

Layer 0:
198834-1
Source

Layer 1 (function layer):
198836-2
Source

What I'm unsure of is the settings to achieve a key combo of FN+1=F1, FN+2=F2, and so on. I tried Layer Action>Momentary which sounds like what I want; however when I test it, layer 0 acts as it should, but when I try to use FN+(any) it results in random keys being activated. I tried flashing a setting where it toggles the function layer and then it works as expected, but I want to just use the function key + the desired key for one action and not toggle between layers. I also tried using a different function key other than capslock to ensure it wasn't just that specific key in error.

I have tried reflashing multiple times, as well as a TKG utility script (suggested by Doonagoowin) to erase the EEPROM from the board and then reflashing but the result is the same. I don't think there is anything wrong with the PCB as it works fine on layer 0.

I have not soldered the switches on yet and have been testing by just connecting the pads - I want to make sure its working before soldering anything down. I don't think the issues are caused by using a couple of tweezers to test the function key and another key at the same time, but I could be wrong. I've made sure to not contact anything but the two keys intended.

Any suggestions as to how to get my function layer working? I feel like this must be a pretty typical setup.

Edit:

I think I fixed it by flashing using the TKG reflash script and the downloaded keymap.eep file from kai.tkg.io as an argument,  followed by reflashing again just using the website. Note you need to clone/download the whole repo to use the scripts. Copy the downloaded .eep file to the same directory and execute the script as an administrator. Don't forget to run the setup script beforehand choosing kimera as the keyboard, default firmware, and atmel_dfu as the bootloader.
« Last Edit: Fri, 29 June 2018, 03:58:35 by spennnyy »

Offline Pennywise359

  • Posts: 17


Those layouts aren't going to work. There's the issue with compat with the plates that I currently have on hand.

Original layouts are here: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/fa8522aa315313aed6b864d460d9d67a
Right now with the plates that I have on hand, the bottom row is limited to these here: https://imgur.com/zfFomZP
Ahhh, I really wanted to have 1u winkey. But that's alright. Thank you.

Offline karankshah

  • Posts: 8
Hey guys. I'm one of the people waiting on the remanufacture, but with all the hype I wanted to try my hand at getting together my ideal setup.

Does the layout below look like it's going to work?



Fn1 and Fn2 are going to link to other layers.

Fn3-Fn5 are not layer links - they are modified keys for "(",")", and "$" to make that numpad the Excel macropad I need.

Offline Harms

  • Posts: 306
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TMK keymap generator is not recognizing my keyboard. I used a paper clip to initiate the reset. I know that the keyboard is in boot loader mode and my computer recognizes it.

Because on device manager "ATmega32U4" shows up under Atmel devices.

On top of that I have the chrome extension installed as well.

Offline reconsiderit

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  • I'm actually not left handed www.switchplate.co
TMK keymap generator is not recognizing my keyboard. I used a paper clip to initiate the reset. I know that the keyboard is in boot loader mode and my computer recognizes it.

Because on device manager "ATmega32U4" shows up under Atmel devices.

On top of that I have the chrome extension installed as well.

Have you updated the USB driver with zadig? The device manager should show "ATmega32u4dfu" if I recall correctly.

Also, double check that there aren't any errors in your layout. Box outline should be green.

Offline Harms

  • Posts: 306
  • Location: Canada
TMK keymap generator is not recognizing my keyboard. I used a paper clip to initiate the reset. I know that the keyboard is in boot loader mode and my computer recognizes it.

Because on device manager "ATmega32U4" shows up under Atmel devices.

On top of that I have the chrome extension installed as well.

Have you updated the USB driver with zadig? The device manager should show "ATmega32u4dfu" if I recall correctly.

Also, double check that there aren't any errors in your layout. Box outline should be green.
Thanks for the help. I updated the drivers and restarted my PC. I then was able to flash the layout and it read my keyboard.

However, I flash it successfully and the meter goes to 100%, but the layout remains unchanged and it stays as the default layout.

Confusing right.
« Last Edit: Wed, 04 July 2018, 18:04:31 by Harms »

Offline reconsiderit

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TMK keymap generator is not recognizing my keyboard. I used a paper clip to initiate the reset. I know that the keyboard is in boot loader mode and my computer recognizes it.

Because on device manager "ATmega32U4" shows up under Atmel devices.

On top of that I have the chrome extension installed as well.

Have you updated the USB driver with zadig? The device manager should show "ATmega32u4dfu" if I recall correctly.

Also, double check that there aren't any errors in your layout. Box outline should be green.
Thanks for the help. I updated the drivers and restarted my PC. I then was able to flash the layout and it read my keyboard.

However, I flash it successfully and the meter goes to 100%, but the layout remains unchanged and it stays as the default layout.

Confusing right.

Have you tried flashing it using the TKG toolkit that does everything offline? That would be a pretty surefire option. It requires you download the files from the compiler and then flash them with the utility that's in the toolkit. I've linked it below.

https://github.com/kairyu/tkg-toolkit