Author Topic: XT/AT/PS2/Terminal to USB Converter with NKRO  (Read 892265 times)

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Offline alaricljs

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« Reply #200 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 12:58:49 »
I'm not exactly sure what it is you're asking timo, but if you scroll to the top of the page and click 'Article' you can read the wiki on this project if you haven't already.

The converter only uses 2 data pins on the teensy.  There are an additional 3 pins for lock LEDs (caps/num/scroll)  It's really whether the particular features requested can be integrated without conflicting with each other, and whether those features inhibit the proper behavior of the converter for the primary purpose.  The pins for the converter itself can easily be reassigned, since none of the assigned pins are being used for their alternate or special features.

As mentioned in the info on pjrc for the LCD display I looked at, there are 2 methods of interfacing to it, one requiring more 'horsepower' from the teensy the other requiring an additional pin.  Considering that pins appear to be in abundance I pointed out the 7 pin, less CPU option.  It doesn't look like the LCD uses any special functions pins.

The SD card interface uses special functions of specific pins to function, so those are hard assigned.  

Then there is the programming of these features.  If the teensy does not have sufficient ROM space, then the teensy++ does have more space and as an added bonus it has more IO pins.

All in all it looks like it could be done.  Whether or not those features can coexist at the same time without resetting the teensy is not one I'm familiar with.  Having the teensy present itself as both a HID device for the KB and as a mass storage device for the SD card at the same time is not something I've dealt with.
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 October 2011, 13:25:44 by alaricljs »
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #201 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 15:01:50 »
Help !

Getting very close, I think, but I am way over my head here, and I am not a programmer by any means.

I received my Teensy, wired it up, flashed it, and followed the instructions that I could find. I downloaded and used the manufacturer's files and instructions. I have downloaded Soarer's USB v0.996 file but perhaps I did not use it correctly.

Windows XP told me that the new USB Human Interface Device was found and was ready to use. Most everything seems to be OK, but the keyboard does not register anything realistic.

When I press any key, the LED on the Teensy comes on for about 2 seconds, then goes off. Running hid_listen.exe registers R05 when I press any key, and I understand that this is a clock error, but I don't really know what that implies.

There are vague mentions of jumpers being set. I have a 122-key Model F terminal keyboard and the Teensy 2.0 (not plus plus). I have only plugged in 4 wires, I cut off the original cable and connected black to VCC, white to Ground, yellow to PD0, and red to PD1, (the cable was shielded but the shield is not connected to anything, should I?) and plugged in to the controller the same way it was originally.

So what do I do now? And if you can, in plain English, and please assume that I am really stupid and incompetent.
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 October 2011, 15:09:49 by fohat.digs »
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Offline Oqsy

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« Reply #202 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:14:22 »
Have you checked yr pinout from the keyboard?  I have no idea what colors mean what in these terminal boards, so others might be of some help. Most of us use the connector on the cable as-is and put a jack/outlet for the DIN between the keyboard and the teensy. The pinouts are known and don't vary like the colors of leads.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #203 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:19:20 »
Quote from: kishy;425809
Here's what I've been working on for the last little while...
Thanks for showing your build!
 
Quote from: timofonic;425879
What about adding a SD card interface? Would be possible to use it both for configuration files (mapping, macros, etc) and an optional LCD for showing the current keymap (plus two buttons for switching)?
SD card is almost definitely a 'no'. There's no shortage of space (in EEPROM) on a Teensy++ for those things, and even the regular Teensy has a reasonable amount (that would be enough for most people). And also, it would be a lot of work to make the card appear as a drive over USB.

I don't know how selecting keymaps on-the-fly will be done yet, but it will be a goal to do it with as little hardware as possible!
 
Quote from: one_each;425957
@Soarer  Have you considered using something like code.google.com to host the code as it is in development?  You can limit it to just you making commits but others could help out and send you patches for fixes.  You can even track things you want to change and others may step up to do the actual work.
Yes... I think I would use github, when and if I release the source.

Quote from: timofonic;425988
In terms of available pinout, memory and such...

How's the Teensy2 or Tenensy2++ used? I mean if you and others can add features to your project in the future, the possibilities of free resources from it.

It's using about 33% of the ROM and most of the RAM (or will be) on a Teensy.

Quote from: alaricljs;425994
All in all it looks like it could be done.  Whether or not those features can coexist at the same time without resetting the teensy is not one I'm familiar with.  Having the teensy present itself as both a HID device for the KB and as a mass storage device for the SD card at the same time is not something I've dealt with.
I've no idea... I already have uses for 4 of the endpoints available, plus the control endpoint, so there might be one left! One thing I've spent a fair bit of time on is stopping the USB code from getting in the way of receiving input from the keyboard - looking after more peripherals would surely exacerbate that problem :-)

Offline Soarer

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« Reply #204 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:23:46 »
Quote from: harrymoss;426052
So what do I do now?


[strike]Have you tried swapping the yellow and red wires?[/strike] Hang on, not sure that's right at all.
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:53:53 by Soarer »

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #205 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:47:58 »
Thanks for the reply. I think/hope I did something kind of like what you described. My situation looks to be the same as Sleuth in #85.

The original cable has a berg-like connector at the keyboard and a DIN-like plug at the computer. I cut it off with the intention of re-using the original connector and a few inches of wires to the Teensy, and discarding the bulk of original long coiled cord and plug.

I hope I didn't screw up.

How can I tell what is connected to what in the original?

Looking at the connector on the controller, what I am calling a berg-like connector from the cable has 6 connections - 2 rows and 3 columns connected at the outer end of the bank of pins on the controller. Obviously, I do not know the proper names of these technical components!

From outside-in, the top row has 1. black, 2. (no pin or wire), 3. (pin but no wire)

The bottom row has 1. red, 2. white, 3. yellow.

I have connected them to the Teensy (in the above order) at VCC, PD1, GND, and PD0 based on what Sleuth #85 showed which seemed to be exactly what I have.

And I have not connected the shield to anything, and not made any jumper connections.

Please excuse my ignorance, I am not a programmer or an electrician, I just love the feel of capacitive keyswitches and want this keyboard to work.

You guys are great to put up with silly people like me.

If I am able to give back in some way, I will try to do it.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 27904[/ATTACH]
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #206 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:51:30 »
Found a label inside my 122F so decided to just photograph it :-)

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 27906[/ATTACH]

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #207 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:54:12 »
Thank you so much. I think that is exactly how I connected mine.

Is there anything else, such as connecting the shield to the chassis of the backplate, or jumpering anything?
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #208 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 16:59:43 »
Is it? Yellow/Clock should go to PD1, and Red/Data should go to PD0.

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #209 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 17:25:43 »
RIGHT YOU ARE !

Stupid me with that whole upside-down-and-backwards thing! (And my reading glasses barely do it anyway.)

Now it is registering, so I have a whole new realm to go through.

Thank you so much! You truly are da man.
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« Reply #210 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 18:38:23 »
Excellent! Glad to hear it's working :-)

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #211 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 19:07:36 »
Sorry for the double post, but,

Soarer - WOW! Man, thank you!

for doing the majority of my re-mapping for me!

I was assuming that I would have to go key-by-key, but you have re-created much of what I wanted without me even asking! Incredible! Thank You!

My goal is to make this as much like the "classic" Model M as possible, with as many of the "deviations" as close to the classic Model F as possible. To that end:

Naturally, I still want to change stuff. I want to make the left bank of keys F1-F10, redundant, of course, and make the number pad exactly like a Model M except trading NumLock (pointless now, with dedicated keys for all the non-numlock stuff) for "Escape" a la the IBM AT layout, and getting  the "+", "/", "-", and "*" right.

That pretty much leaves the top row for me to play with, with "Escape" at the top left (my single biggest frustration, along with arrow keys, since I do not want to saw out or fill the case .... ). I know that drilling small holes for LEDs is easy, but, I don't really care.

But - Wow, Man, Wow.

Thank you so very much. Really.
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Offline theferenc

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« Reply #212 on: Tue, 04 October 2011, 21:26:44 »
Yeah, I briefly considered wiring up the lock LEDs. Then I realized, wait a sec, I don't care about those in the slightest.

The way I have mine mapped is HHKB like on the main block, the navigation block is standard, and the numpad goes ESC (redundant) =, *, /, +, -, Enter (clockwise from top left). The left block has all of the lock keys (top 4 are num_lock, scroll_lock, caps_lock, and print_screen), pause, and then the other 5 keys are mapped to macros. I put "Cmd" keys on those, 1-5. I'm thinking about changing it though, so that the left column are the lock keys, and the right column are the command keys, but I haven't settled on that yet.
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #213 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 13:23:34 »
Now this beauty is together and working great. I could not be more pleased - it is fantastic - although the wife and kids are not going to like the additional racket!

The problems I encountered earlier were all due to careless wiring, etc. I have not made "permanent" connections yet, but I know that it works.

Not being a programmer, at all, I would love to know an easy way to remap some of these keys. Since this is such an odd and ancient setup, I am a little afraid to mess with anything, for fear of breaking it!

Do I dare run a program that I find and download, or will that mess up Soarer's lovely work?

I went back through this thread, thinking that I had seen mention of a program to do it, but couldn't see it.

Thanks again, everybody!
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Offline theferenc

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« Reply #214 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 16:21:19 »
If you're running windows, AHK is a decent option, as is KeyTweak. The former is an active, user level remapping solution, and so doesn't work at login. The latter is a system level option, as it stores it in the registry.

If you're running linux, I can help you out with an xmodmap file that you can use, though it might not map directly on your system. It didn't even map directly between RHEL 5 and RHEL 6, for whatever reason.
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #215 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 16:31:51 »
I usually work in Windows, but I dual-boot to Ubuntu fairly often. I would use it a lot more if certain things didn't pull me back to Windows, but I am no programmer.

I barely scratch the surface, and don't really know what I am doing without step-by-step instructions, although I am - sometimes - pretty good at figuring things out in my own way.

Since I don't really understand the minutiae of where and how the signal gets intercepted and re-routed, I am fearful of screwing it up. If I use either of the programs that you mentioned above, could it interfere or disrupt what Soarer wrote? His work is beautiful and I want most of it to stay intact.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #216 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 16:40:21 »
Quote from: harrymoss;426427
I went back through this thread, thinking that I had seen mention of a program to do it, but couldn't see it.

There was a hack somewhere, which should work, but some remappings done that way might not work because of the way I do remapping after the translation from native scan code set to USB HID codes.

If you set your keyboard ID to AFBF, that might be closer to what you want, leaving just a small number of keys for AutoHotkey (or whatever) to take care of.

To set that ID: if you have DIP switches, just set them all to 'open' (or 'off') except for number 2. Or if you have a jumper block, only fit one, to the second position in (not sure from which end!).

Offline theferenc

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« Reply #217 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 17:30:41 »
I use KeyTweak and xmodmap both, without issues whatsoever. I prefer these over the AHK setup, simply due to using synergy. AHK and synergy are completely ignorant of one another, so it just fundamentally doesn't work how I need it to.

But xmodmap and keytweak both operate on the computer itself, interpreting and modifying the signal AFTER it arrives from the adapter. So no worries at all.
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #218 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 18:59:14 »
You guys are simply the greatest!

But I am a pest. Hopefully, when you answer my questions, some other poor neophyte will find the answers and not bother you again. Or not, but how to know? I actually comb through threads before posting questions, at least a bit, out of respect for your time.

theferenc, I used KeyTweak and it works great. I was able to do just what I wanted, with 2 exceptions. 1 of them, the upper right button on the Number Pad, is permanently set to "Pause" as I understand it, so I can accept that (although I wanted to get as close to "standard" 101 Model M as possible and make it a "minus").

But when I tried to remap the second from the left key at the top of the Number Pad, NumLock I suppose it was originally, to be "/" (slash/divide Model M style) and it stubbornly stays set on "-" for whatever reason.

My reason for needing this is that while I use the number pad fairly often, and rely on it for numbers, I seldom actually use things like minus there. But what I do use it for, very often, is entering dates, usually in the 08/25/2011 format. I would prefer to not have to move off the number pad to get the "/'" symbol.

Is there some reason that the minus symbol is locked to that key, or am I doing something wrong?

Thanking you in advance, Padawan Harry
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Offline theferenc

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« Reply #219 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 19:31:24 »
That's weird, I was able to remap them just fine. Did you use "teach mode" in keytweak, or select from the list?

As I mentioned above, I have the numpad mapped as ESC (redundant) =, *, /, +, -, Enter (clockwise from top left), as that's how my 1397000 maps them (ish), and I found that I really liked it.
HHKB Pro 2 -- Custom UNIX layout Unicomp Customizer 101 -- IBM Model M 1391401 (modded to UNIX layout) -- IBM 1397000 (also UNIX layout) -- SSK in UNIX layout -- Model F 122 key in UNIX layout (Soarer USB "native")
 
CST L-TracX trackball -- Kensington Expert Mouse trackball

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #220 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 20:03:43 »
No luck with that.

I went through the routines in both "Half Teach Mode" and "Full Teach Mode" and neither took. It is just those 2 keys, all the rest worked properly.

I am looking for [ Esc, /, *, -, +, Enter ] - just like the Model M except for Escape replacing NumLock.

My situation is that I use 2 desktops and a laptop myself, and help/manage/maintain half a dozen others for co-workers and family. So it is disorienting, to say the least, to put my hands on multiple keyboard layouts every day. The closer I can stay to the "standard" layout, the easier it is on my poor brain and fingers.

Obviously, this behemoth keyboard is hooked up to "MY" computer, a massive full tower with more drives than I can count on one hand and all its slots full, so I want it to be "just right" but also I want to stay as consistent as I can with the "real world" I interact with.

This is truly minor. I am so deliriously happy with this exquisite keyboard that I will accept these trivial complaints.

But if you do have something else for me to try, I will do it.

Thanks again.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #221 on: Wed, 05 October 2011, 21:02:30 »
I reckon KeyTweak has got confused trying to remap Pause... try reverting both NumLock and Pause, and then setting NumLock to '/'.

If that doesn't work, Clear All might do it. If even that doesn't work, it's time for a rummage in the registry!

For remapping the top-right key (Pause), you'd need to set the keyboard ID to AFBF to get the alternate layout.
« Last Edit: Wed, 05 October 2011, 21:05:10 by Soarer »

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« Reply #222 on: Fri, 07 October 2011, 08:44:10 »
Boy-oh-boy! a missed day of geekhack down had me worried!

Thanks for all your help, guys, I am getting much closer.

Soarer, I used a jumper to set my board to AFBF (I think) by a little trial and error. Below is a photo of the connector, and a drawing of the markings that I had to use a magnifying glass to see.


[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 27976[/ATTACH]


[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 27977[/ATTACH]


The first 3 pairs of pins, from the left, are where the cable connects. You suggested jumpering the second position, and these are numbered starting with "2" so I jumpered "3" in the KBID "A" bank. This appeared to work properly and gave me the configuration you described in your previous post. I am pleased to get /, *, -, + around the numpad just like I want.

But, like before, some of the other changes would not "take" and I have tried multiple times.

Most important, I want the top left numpad (NumLock in your scenario) to be another "Escape" but it stubbornly becomes F2, and stays that way.

On the left bank, which I want to be an additional bank of F1-F10, F2 insists on being "Pause" and F3 insists on being F2.

I am using KeyTweak per theferenc suggestion, and it worked perfectly for everything else.

Now it must be time to delve into the registry, which I have done in the past, but only timidly, and based on step-by-step instructions. I have a set of scan codes and would be willing to do this.

Is there a set of clear and simple-minded instructions for doing this that I can find somewhere to guide me?

Otherwise this project has been great and I am delighted with the results. These minor problems are ones that I can easily live with, if I have to.

PS - now I read that people have done bolt-mods to these big F-122 boards to solidify them. Where is there room for the bolts? As I remember, once you insert the barrels, they are pretty much shoulder-to-shoulder throughout the main area, certainly everywhere the letters are.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #223 on: Fri, 07 October 2011, 09:42:25 »
Sorry, but you won't be able to remap some of the keys in that left hand F-key block, with the AFBF layout. (In fact, I'm not even sure if KeyTweak can remap the Windows key, which is on left F9 or something in all the layouts).

As a side note, the AFBF is primarily intended for the 104-key terminal 'unsaver' keyboards. The rejigging of the numpad was an afterthought. That's left it with two keys for num-lock - remapping one will also remap the other.

For a full clear out of anything Keytweak might've done to the registry, run regedit and navigate to 'HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Keyboard Layout', then delete the 'Scancode Map' key. Also, check that 'HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Keyboard Layout' doesn't have a 'Scancode Map' key.

Then you can reboot and go back into KeyTweak to try again - but don't try remapping the pause key!!

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« Reply #224 on: Sat, 08 October 2011, 21:40:19 »
Hi, it's me, harrymoss, I just felt like I needed to change my ID to something less mundane than my actual name.

Still a pesky question-asker, of course.

So this thing is working well, but these 3 keys continue to bother me. Of all the keys to be out of whack, "Escape" and "F2" (edit cell, etc) are two of my favorite "go to" keys that I use pretty often.

I guess I am trying/hoping to misunderstand Soarer telling me that I cannot fix the fact that the top left of the numpad, once NumLock, now F2, cannot be my second Escape.

And that the top right of the left function keys is permanently stuck as "Pause" instead of F2.

I really like having those important keys in the main body of keys without having to reach up for them.

Maybe I will get another shot, I got a couple of ugly trashed Model F-122s from rawko (5 minutes from my office) that I think may build into a good chassis or maybe even two, without the top half of the case. More trial and error, I will move my Teensy around and see if I can get closer to the layout that I want.

ps - none of them have the DIP switches, are those rare?

thanks again, Harry
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« Reply #225 on: Sun, 09 October 2011, 04:23:24 »
As it stands, I'm afraid you'll have to accept that you can't get all of the layout that you want. Pause being the main key that gets in the way. You can either:
1) start with the default layout, and accept that Pause will be Pause on the numpad, or
2) start with the AFBF layout, and accept that you can't have F1-F10 on the left.

I'm positive that attempting to remap Pause is what's causing the problem with remapping NumLock.

I've just started work on the user remapping stuff, but it will take at least a few weeks before even a basic version is available.

Offline theferenc

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« Reply #226 on: Thu, 13 October 2011, 09:35:23 »
That's really weird, honestly. I remapped nearly everything in Linux with no issues whatsoever. But then, it's a different mapping system entirely, so that might be the difference.

Have you tried AHK to do it?
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #227 on: Fri, 14 October 2011, 16:22:50 »
So, my amateurish trial and error fumblings continue. I post this stuff, not in a narcissistic way, but to contribute to the greater knowledge, since I have found many answers I needed in ground previously plowed by others. If I should stop, tell me.

I have disassembled 2 Model F 122-key terminals today, 1 from 1984 and 1 from 1985. Below are pictures of the circuit board/metal backplate assemblies, which I do not wish to take apart. They are surprisingly different. The 1984 (August) model is the one that looks all green, as if there is a much thicker layer of fiberglass over the printed contacts. It was in much better condition, and the metal back plate is quite shiny.

The 1985 (January), which is much like the 1985 (June) that I re-habbed and have been discussing for the past month, has the coppery-looking contacts.

My question is which of these boards should I use for my next project? I like the idea of the stronger coating over the circuit, since I have seen a Model F board (an XT 83-key) in which the copper looked like it was more than half eroded (or otherwise erased) away.

The 1984 looks very clean and nice otherwise, and unless there is a compelling reason for the actuation to be harder, such as the electrons have to work harder to get through the extra thickness of fiberglass, then I will use this one.


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I am an Industrial Designer, not an Electrical Engineer, so my intuition is not so deep in this realm. All else being equal, I will chose physical strength, but not at the expense of free flow of energy. Many of you must understand the subtleties and/or minutiae of this process better than I, but you know, miniscule differences matter to me.

Lastly, the rubber mats were in "bad" condition. I was spoiled because the June 1985 in my previous project had a very nice mat, not only was the rubbery surface quite nice, but the foam side was also mostly intact, shedding some 10%-20% but hanging together pretty well.

The mat of the 1985 was terrible, the foam was completely gone, transformed into a very ugly and hard-to-clean rubbery grit, and the thin remainder tore in more than a couple of places. It might possibly be almost "useable" but probably not.

The 1984 was considerably better, although still pathetic, in that the foam was pretty well gone, but the rubbery side was intact and workable. I can probably make it function properly, with some careful jiggling. I am careful and pretty good at making marginal situations viable.

Am I correct in assuming that it would be insanely optimistic of me to imagine that there is any way of getting replacement rubber mats, besides buying Model F 122-key keyboards and taking them apart to see what is inside? Please don't think I am smoking crack or living in La-La Land to even ask.

Probably Monday, I will re-assemble this thing and see what I can make happen. This has been a very difficult week for me (death in the family), and it would be nice if something worked out nicely.

So what was my question(s)? Is the green board better than the copper one, and how do I utilize/improve the rubber mats?

thanks a lot, folks
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Offline LETE

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« Reply #228 on: Sat, 15 October 2011, 16:55:26 »
You don't need to worry about the thicker coating affecting performance. When the keyboard was designed they would have balanced the gain to account for the distance between the conductors, and capacitive sensors aren't especially sensitive to obstructions anyway. My iphone still works with 9 layers of painter's tape on it.

I'd like to figure out a solution to the decomposed mats as well. I'm sure you can't buy them ready made or anything, but there should be a way to make your own. It's worth looking into.
« Last Edit: Sat, 15 October 2011, 17:07:50 by LETE »

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #229 on: Sat, 15 October 2011, 21:42:20 »
It might not be all that hard to make one, provided that you had a hole punch of just the right size.

A fresh firm mat might even improve the feel, my daughter has foam art supplies that are probably a very good thickness for this, slightly deeper and firmer than the original.

Exactly what I need, another tedious time-consuming project!
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Offline LETE

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« Reply #230 on: Sat, 15 October 2011, 22:11:28 »
Let's both give it a shot and compare notes. Of course, if we get a proof of concept laid out, it wouldn't be too hard to make a CAD file of the design and send it in to get laser cut for a group buy.
« Last Edit: Sat, 15 October 2011, 23:20:35 by LETE »

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« Reply #231 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 08:54:12 »
May be getting far enough off-topic to warrant a new thread.

Since I am really fond of the Model F terminal, in spite of my mapping problems, and since I have an extra used board to experiment on, I am considering a bolt mod to tighten this thing up.

This will require drilling the circuit board and the metal, and I don't figure to use too many bolts. In fact, I can't put any where I really want them, scattered among the letter keys, since the barrels are in the way.

Please look at the diagram below, and let me know if this might be a good layout, and/or if the benefit is work wasting a couple of hours on, at all.

Thanks, Harry

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 28821[/ATTACH]
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Offline LETE

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« Reply #232 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:25:01 »
Yeah, I made us a thread of our own.

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #233 on: Wed, 19 October 2011, 15:49:20 »
Soarer -

I have put together a 2nd keyboard, and left all the jumpers open to default. It works great and I have all but 2 keys set the way I want them.

For whatever reasons, NumLock refuses to be re-mapped to "/" Slash as I would like, and I did not even try to change "Pause" to "-" minus even though I would like that.

That is a lesser price to pay than losing the Escape on the top left of the Numpad and keeping the left function keys proper.

I want to bolt-mod and floss this Model F and see what that is like. I am excited about the next phase of the project, even though I have pretty well given up on getting those last 2 keys like they are on the Model M.

I really appreciate your generous work and help on this. Thanks again.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #234 on: Thu, 20 October 2011, 15:09:02 »
I wish I knew why that numlock won't remap! Does it just stay as numlock then?

True, it's not wise to hold your breath waiting for me to implement the remapping stuff, but it will happen :-)

Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #235 on: Thu, 20 October 2011, 17:08:55 »
Yes, it just stays NumLock regardless of what I tell it to be. I was using KeyTweak and everything else obeyed my commands just fine.

If you are taking requests, I would like to make it as close to a Model M as possible, for the alphabet and numpad, with the exception that I will not need NumLock at all anymore, so I would want the top left of numpad to be Escape, a la the Model F AT.

Also like the Model F AT, I would like the left side to be a second F1-F10 pad.

At the top, I am happy with the bottom row being F1-F12 as usual.

The uppermost row, I would probably use for music controls and program and internet hot buttons.

But I would want the uppermost left button to be another Escape, a la Model M.

This would allow me to hop around between my Model Ms, Model F AT, and other "standard" keyboards with as little disorientation as possible.

Thanks again.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #236 on: Sat, 22 October 2011, 09:44:04 »
No requests, sorry! The two alternative mappings came about for specific reasons - the first one was for someone who was helping out a lot during early testing, and the second is so that escape is available on the 104-key terminal 'unsaver' keyboards (and thus helps a whole group of people).

A little progress on the remapping utilies - I've compiled the sample rawhid code into a DLL, and added the rawhid interface and endpoints to the converter, with a simple test that echos back whatever it receives. That works, but it remains to be seen if it interferes with normal keypresses in any way while stuff is being sent over the rawhid channel. So, now to decide what language to use for the next bit (that calls the DLL), and how it will transfer to other OS.

Offline theferenc

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« Reply #237 on: Sun, 23 October 2011, 09:49:40 »
I would recommend something like C++/Qt combination, or possibly python using wx or similar. Those 2 combinations are the best I've seen at providing actual cross platform support, and the former is used quite extensively, actually, including products like Picasa, google earth, VLC, photoshop elements, and Skype.

You can do most of the processing in straight C even, if you prefer, and just use C++ for the GUI aspect. Qt really excels at the MVC model of programming, and provides some really slick scripting support for generating dynamic GUIs.

Now, if you're going CLI rather than GUI, just write it in C or C++, and let people compile it themselves, I suppose.
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Offline Soarer

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« Reply #238 on: Sun, 23 October 2011, 20:23:55 »
C++/Qt would suit me - I'd only need to learn the Qt bit!

I think I'll just go with CLI for the first version, so I can concentrate on getting the protocol and formats right. All it needs to do is talk to the DLL I've made, and deal with files. Might as well be C or C++ since that will be easiest (for me).

Beyond that, it could certainly use some nice UI. I guess there's two main criteria for that - only requiring that users install a minimal amount of other stuff, and that the toolkit has a stable interface. The latter so that these tools aren't too fussy about which version of the toolkit they are built with.

Offline HaaTa

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« Reply #239 on: Mon, 24 October 2011, 16:07:05 »
Heh, I know Qt :D
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Offline RPro

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« Reply #240 on: Sat, 29 October 2011, 17:35:59 »
Hi - dumb question,but I couldn't find it with search:

Does this Teensy PS2 adapter work with the Dell AT101W (alps) keyboard? Thanks!

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« Reply #241 on: Sat, 29 October 2011, 18:08:32 »
It should - it certainly works with my Dell AT102W and SGI Granite :)

Offline RPro

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« Reply #242 on: Sat, 29 October 2011, 18:21:32 »
Quote from: Soarer;441968
It should - it certainly works with my Dell AT102W and SGI Granite :)


That's great! Gonna order a teensy board soon then. :)

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« Reply #243 on: Sun, 30 October 2011, 18:28:44 »
A couple of things:

First, do you want the Teensy for the Dell AT-101 for gaming? Because my son and I both use the AT-101 and it plugs in almost anywhere and works great (although, I must admit, that since I have been obsessed with buckling springs and my current Model F 122-key terminal conversion projects for a few months ..... ) I am not a gamer so maybe the Teensy does some kind of rollover thing that I don't understand ??

Second, I have finally completed my second Model F 122-key conversion, and it is "BAD-ASS" to say the least! I tore it down and bolt-modded it using about half a dozen bolts in the Imperial/American 4-40x1/2" or 4-40x3/4" sizes (don't know comparable metrics), painted the metal back plate several coats including rubber paint on the rubber side, flossed the springs, and stuffed the case with old pillow stuffing.

This is a clean mean machine. It clicks without undue resonance, and will probably last for years being stabbed at with full force. Now I just need to find a good paint/stain system, and repair procedure, for the case and I will be all set.
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Offline kishy

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« Reply #244 on: Sun, 30 October 2011, 23:31:54 »
And that really does sum up a lot of why so many of us love these things...the Fs, especially a terminal Model F (122 or 104, there are others though) are just so machine-like.

(even terminal Ms are beast-like compared to all sorts of things, but an F really goes above and beyond)
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« Reply #245 on: Mon, 31 October 2011, 17:34:32 »
You have to take the Model F apart to really appreciate its construction. It seems monumental even by 1980s standards, not 1 but 2 large hunks of metal in the thing.

As the Model M is alleged to have the rivet weakness that can be fixed by bolt-modding, I have found 2 weaknesses with my Model Fs. The big one, and I did not realize this immediately, is the deterioration of the rubber mat that sits between the barrels and the metal inner plate. My first one had a wonderful mat with nice pliable black rubber and even the foam layer on the plate side was in good condition.

Since then, I have realized that a good mat is hard to come by and can be a "deal-killer"

One day I will try to make my own replacement mat, but I need to get a 1/2" hole punch.

The other problem is that the cases seem very prone to crack or break, particularly at the front (spacebar) edge. I have 3 F-122 cases that are broken diagonally from the lower corner of the key openings to the corner of the case. Even JB Weld epoxy has only proven up to the task once, and it is dark gray.

Can these cases be dyed, or must they be dye/painted?
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Offline theferenc

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« Reply #246 on: Fri, 04 November 2011, 16:26:52 »
I know the M cases can be dyed, but it's a challenge due to the size. Some folks have suggested an automotive vynal based dye/spray paint stuff, if I remember correctly. Krylon also makes a substance that works, from results that have been posted here, as well.

I'm actually going to be looking into this in the next few weeks, since I would prefer a cleaner looking keyboard, and the case on my F is pretty stained and dirty. I'll let you know what I come up with.
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Offline fohat.digs

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« Reply #247 on: Sat, 05 November 2011, 16:11:53 »
I decided that the advice was mostly against dyeing the Model F case, so I went to the automotive store and bought Dupli-Color Dye/Paint and used a half-dozen very light coats.

Came out pretty nice, if I do say so myself, and covered up the "JB Weld" repair job I had to do at the lower left (these cases are not the battleship quality that everything else is). Besides seeming brittle, the surface texture layer comes off leaving a very glossy under substrate.


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And yes, I did paint the metal back plate red !

Dyeing the keys will be a future project.

And, whenever I can find a gray cord, it will go on, too.

Thanks, everyone !
« Last Edit: Sat, 05 November 2011, 16:14:41 by fohat.digs »
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Offline RPro

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« Reply #248 on: Sat, 05 November 2011, 20:05:03 »
Quote from: fohat.digs;442398
A couple of things:

First, do you want the Teensy for the Dell AT-101 for gaming? Because my son and I both use the AT-101 and it plugs in almost anywhere and works great (although, I must admit, that since I have been obsessed with buckling springs and my current Model F 122-key terminal conversion projects for a few months ..... ) I am not a gamer so maybe the Teensy does some kind of rollover thing that I don't understand ??


Actually, my new Sandy Bridge Asus P8Z68V-Pro motherboard does not have any PS/2 ports. The PS2->USB converter I have does NOT work with the AT101W --- is one of the models I got from monoprice - according to the wiki here on geekhack it should work on most but definitely NOT the Dell - it frequently resets but even worse - I can't use Control-C properly! So hey, I might as well get a Teensy for a little more than the price of a belkin converter. And it'd be a fun little project to try anyways.

I would like to use the Dell for gaming. But it is impossible to crouch and move in Left4Dead with my current converter haha!

Offline Soarer

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« Reply #249 on: Sat, 05 November 2011, 21:20:29 »
Quote from: fohat.digs;446313
And yes, I did paint the metal back plate red !

Looks great, I like it!

Quote from: RPro;446412
Actually, my new Sandy Bridge Asus P8Z68V-Pro motherboard does not have any PS/2 ports. The PS2->USB converter I have does NOT work with the AT101W --- is one of the models I got from monoprice - according to the wiki here on geekhack it should work on most but definitely NOT the Dell - it frequently resets but even worse - I can't use Control-C properly! So hey, I might as well get a Teensy for a little more than the price of a belkin converter. And it'd be a fun little project to try anyways.

I would like to use the Dell for gaming. But it is impossible to crouch and move in Left4Dead with my current converter haha!

This code can't add NKRO to a non-NKRO keyboard of course, but it should work as well as if it were plugged into a PS/2 port :-)