IBM Model M Spacesaver

[Quarzac]

First of all, hello everybody.

Secondly, I managed to get a Model M Spacesaver out of a recycling bin as my computer science teacher was throwing it away. It's in full working condition. My sister was using it, but for some reason I will never understand, decided to go back to her wireless logitech. I've been looking around on Ebay and some other posts on this forum, and I've seen them go for ~$75-$100. I have no interest in holding on to it, as I have a full size model M, don't really care for tenkeyless boards, and am currently looking into a Das Keyboard Silent for when I go off to college in a year so my roommate doesn't kill me. I figured there would be no better place to ask about a fair market value for this thing.

Also, unrelated, but my numlock LED on my model M has been mostly dead for a while. It comes back to life every once in a while, but it's rare. Is that a replacement fix, or is there something internal that may explain it?

This seems like a great community and I will do my best to not lurk, even though I am a notorious forum lurker.

[microsoft windows]

In order to help you with your numlock LED problem, we'll need a little more information. Do you know the full model number of your full sized Model M? There are several revisions of it which use different circuit boards for the lock lights.

[TexasFlood]

Seems like I read a thread here about a similar problem but you're in good hands with microsoft windows, he's probably forgotten more about the subject than I've ever know.

[Quarzac]

According to the sticker on the back, it's a '91 1391401. Grey label. The sticker also says FRU Number- 1392090. I'm not sure what that is.

[Quarzac]

Is numlock working, but just the LED isn't? Or is numlock itself not working?

Two very different issues. In the first case, you'd want to check on the little ribbon that actually powers the LEDs. On earlier boards this is actually made up of wires, but on later units it's made of the same stuff as the keyboard membrane itself, and much like the matrix traces, can die or become flaky. If that ribbon were fine, then you're looking at either an LED or controller defect (more likely the latter).

If the numlock function itself is entirely not working, then you're either looking at an actuation issue on the numlock key, a controller defect, or an adapter defect (some active USB converters have issues with lock functions working properly).

I'm using PS/2, for the record. Numlock works, but the LED doesn't. I can't do much to check the innards right now, as I don't have a 5.5mm socket on hand. But I'll keep it all in mind when I do.