Author Topic: Retro-fitting metal plate into Cherry G80-3000  (Read 9826 times)

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Offline whininggit

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Retro-fitting metal plate into Cherry G80-3000
« on: Sun, 17 January 2010, 13:42:09 »
Has anybody on here added a metal plate to the G80-3000? It seems like a huge job - you need to desolder every switch, and then remount them into a custom-cut plate and it also looks like you need to cut the plastic a bit. I'm interested in how much difference this makes.

I love the Cherry boards. Understated looks, decent keycaps. I know that we can compare a PCB mount Cherry to a plate mount Filco, but I wonder how a PCB vs plate Cherry would sound/feel?

I found this link but I'm sure that I've seen the same thing done on a different site.
« Last Edit: Sun, 17 January 2010, 13:44:06 by whininggit »
Cherry G80-3000LSCGB-2 (modded to Cherry MX Browns) (main) | Cherry G84-4100 (Cherry ML) | Compaq MX-11800 (modded to Cherry MX Blue) | Dell AT101W (Alps Black) | IBM Model M 1391406 (Buckling Spring) | Matias Tactile Pro (1.0) (Alps) | SGI AT-101 (Alps w/Dampers) | Black Alpsulator (XM Alps-type)

Offline whininggit

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Retro-fitting metal plate into Cherry G80-3000
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 17 January 2010, 13:55:23 »
What does the metal plate affect the most - vertical movement or lateral movement? It seems that the plate should restrain the switch assembly completely against lateral movement assuming that it's accurately cut, but then again the actual switching part is what has the most movement anyway. So that leaves the vertical, and in that case, could you achieve similar stiffness by adding better supports to the PCB?
Cherry G80-3000LSCGB-2 (modded to Cherry MX Browns) (main) | Cherry G84-4100 (Cherry ML) | Compaq MX-11800 (modded to Cherry MX Blue) | Dell AT101W (Alps Black) | IBM Model M 1391406 (Buckling Spring) | Matias Tactile Pro (1.0) (Alps) | SGI AT-101 (Alps w/Dampers) | Black Alpsulator (XM Alps-type)

Offline itlnstln

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Retro-fitting metal plate into Cherry G80-3000
« Reply #2 on: Mon, 18 January 2010, 07:42:10 »
I guess what I might be missing is the point of the mod.  Is it to change the feel of the switches by plate-mounting, or is it to add weight to the 'board (or even a little of both)?  I don't really think that plate-mounting the swithes is going to change the feel much.  The PCB doesn't flex at all (not that you would really want to test it), and the switch's base is so wide that the switch doesn't wobble, either.  IMO, plate mounting the switches isn't really worth it.  If you just want to add weight, ripster's lead mod is perfect (and much easier).