Another Model F AT ANSI conversion plus ALT mod

[megahertzcoil]

Last summer I picked up a well loved Model F AT so I could experience a Model F first hand.  I figured I would just clean it up and put it to use with a PS/2 to USB adapter and be done with it.  At the time of acquisition, it was super dirty so I jumped right in and pulled off *all* the keys.  Only after all the keys were ready to be installed did I realize that you can't put the Model F AT spacebar back on without taking apart the entire keyboard!  At that point, I was committed to taking the thing apart just to get the spacebar functional again, so I figured why not go whole hog. 

The plan was to:

• tear down and clean the entire board
• replace the foam (you can see how bad it was in the pics)
• spray paint the top barrel plate, the bottom plate had no noticeable corrosion.
• ANSI mod the layout
• replace the controller with an xwhatsit
• add two alt keys
• use the original cables with custom adapters.  The black coiled cable was in near perfect condition and I wanted to retain that in the final product.

I already had a partial Model M key set that I could use to harvest the spacebar, ctrl, atl, enter, "\" and backspace, plus other keys from.  I was able to get the needed barrels and flippers and controller from some other forum members.  The foam was the 1/16th inch from McMasterCarr that has come recommended in other Model F restoration projects.

As of last weekend, I was able to get everything complete and I brought this with me to the NorCal mech keyboard meetup yesterday at WASD.  I took some pics along the way.  Not super extensive, but should be enough to give you an idea of where I started and where I ended up.


Poor quality cell phone pic before touching the keyboard


After cleaning the keys and casing, you can see the corrosion on the barrel plate.  I already replace the enter key with the ANSI enter.


Internal label.  Anyone know how to read the date code?


Dirty old foam and key barrels.  I have no idea how that much dirty got inside the keyboard!



New foam with template after cutting.  I opted against buying a round die cutter and just used a sharp exacto knife.  Seemed to work quite well.


Trial placement of keys before installing barrels and flippers.  Needed to get the placement right!


Barrels installed


Other side with Model M spacebar stabilizers attached.  Just some scrap stainless steel glued using E6000.  Tried some epoxy first, but didn't hold as well, seemed to be too brittle.


Internal shot showing the custom adapters for both the micro-USB and LED indicators.


Finished project with inline passive adapters on the original cable.

Notice that I also replaced the numpad with Model M keys, since I liked the brown navigation legends and wanted the bump on 5.  I also replace the F and J keys with Model M keys so that i have home row bumps.

This is now my daily driver at work... until someone complains about it!

Hope you enjoy!

[E TwentyNine]

Looks good!

[fohat.digs]

Good work. This same project has been hovering near the top of my project list for well over a year. I think the Dremel work for the Alt keys may be holding me back, I have plenty of experience with pretty much everything else, except wiring in the xwhatsit but I don't expect that to be too bad. And I certainly will want an attached USB cable!

[megahertzcoil]

Thanks for the parts too!  I wouldn't have been able to complete the project without those extra barrels and flippers.  Worked like a charm.

At some point, I will probably repaint the case too.  As you can see from the pictures, the finish on the top case is worn down to the plastic.  I am thinking of trying to match industrial gray, but not too sure yet.

[Melvang]

From my experience, the texture on the case is actually a coating applied to the plastic.

[megahertzcoil]

From my experience, the texture on the case is actually a coating applied to the plastic.

I kind of noticed that.  I will definitely do a number of trials before attempting on the keyboard.  I might be ok with the texture of the paint if I can get the right color...

[fohat.digs]

I might be ok with the texture of the paint

Very tricky. Any "film-forming" surface layer is subject to being worn or chipped off, leaving a bigger problem behind.

In my F-122 guides I recommended "Dupli-Color" automotive coating (buy it at the parts store) and it holds up quite well but is very thin and does not have a texture of its own.

Lately I have fallen in love with Rustoleum's "hammered metal" spray paints which build a very nice texture for themselves but will not fill in low areas where the "skin" layer has flaked off altogether. Look for chips near the middle of the side bars on each side of the "rosemary" colored F-122.

(The rough gap under the numpad was an epoxy repair for a complete break, the gray one has a similar break and repair in the lower right corner of the numpad.)

[megahertzcoil]

One of my biggest concerns is chipping and/or wear.  I have seen some recommend Duplicolor Adhesion promoter primer: http://www.duplicolor.com/product/adhesion-promoter.  Do you have any experience with it and did it help?

As you can see from my photos, the surface layer is worn.  I wasn't sure if I should try and paint as is, or if I should sand off the surface finish first before priming and painting. 

The hammered metal look is interesting, but I am looking for something a little less glossy.  I like the somewhat natural plastic finish of both the Model F AT and my Model Ms.

[fohat.digs]

Give a careful look at the Rustoleum line, they are exquisite. I don't think that you will replicate the original texture - "flat" is too flat and even "satin" has a sheen to it.

[megahertzcoil]

Some have asked how I got the top barrel plate to looking almost new after refinishing.  I first sanded the surface with 80grit sandpaper then followed with a steel brush bit on my dremel to clean up any rust spots.  There were a few minor ones and I didn't want them causing problems later, so I thought it best to just get the surface as clean as possible.  Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the prepared raw steel surface for comparison.  Then I finishined with several thin coats of Rustoleum Universal Satin black (http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-satin-spray-paint).  This stuff worked very well for this project and it was nice that it doesn't require a primer.  I used this paint for another project with good results, so I took a bet on using for this project.

If you look at the picture of the trial key placement, you can actually see that I painted it over 2 sessions several days apart.  I was planning on doing it in one go, but ran out of paint since I started with a partial spray can.  I got a couple passes out of the first can, then did 3 or 4 more with the second can.

[umeboshi]

Just finished my AT ansi conversion also!  Hardest part for me was cutting out the holes for the extra ALT barrels - the ones you made are really clean!    I did play around with the numpad area to make a pseudo-tkl area (need the arrow keys), and it's working out quite well...

First time I cleaned out a model M I was already admiring how sturdily that was built.  Now after working on this board (and another XT), the quality makes even the M look cheap by comparison.  I guess it's true that older is better?  I'm trying very hard not to go hunting for a beamspring now   

[jaffers]

I want an F AT to do this now

[fohat.digs]

the quality makes even the M look cheap by comparison.  I guess it's true that older is better? 

It is not explicitly a matter of age. The Model M is a dramatically cheaped-down product made to sell to a mass market.

[megahertzcoil]

Just finished my AT ansi conversion also!  Hardest part for me was cutting out the holes for the extra ALT barrels - the ones you made are really clean!    I did play around with the numpad area to make a pseudo-tkl area (need the arrow keys), and it's working out quite well...

Nice work!  I am really loving the board after conversion.  I like your SSK type numpad area.  I still get thrown off by the full numpad on mine and I haven't decided if/how I might change it.  I will likely get Ellipse's F77 and will probably do something similar to what you have done.

Cutting the holes in the top plate was just slow dremel work.  The bits I was using took a long time to cut the steel, so it was just a matter of patience to get the shape and fit just right. 

[E TwentyNine]

I went with complete barrel removal but never got around to prettying it up.

Empty barrels (those look empty) with stems in them might be a better looking approach until I get around to some sort of cover for that area.

[jwegman]

A great thanks to you folks, and the posts at DT; my little AT has gotten some new life:

...link to picture; not sure why geekhack isn't rendering the image...: