[IC] Hubble Mira Custom TKL (GB is 3... 2... 1... launched!)

[Sifo]

So... is it gonna come in some sort of blue is my only question.

[meow a cat]

I'm interested.

Really digging the space theme.

I also want a blue version!

[pryedthirdeye]

Interested, but curious about price.

[metalliqaz]

That looks awesome

[metalliqaz]

Oh boy. Move over Korean customs, here come the Connecticut Customs

Looks gorgeous, Dr. H. Hook a fellow Nutmegger up up with #17

CT represent

[Evo_Spec]

Damn this looks awesome, hope i have the funds by the time this goes live.

[LechnerDE]

Very interesting!

Really curious about the final price.

My favortite colors for the case would be dolch gray or teal 

[joey]

My gf likes it  (and I do too!)

[CPTBadAss]

I'm loving this idea. About damn time. Much respect Drhubblephd. CTCUSTOMS indeed.

2015: Year of the GH customs hotness

[DrHubblePhD]

So... is it gonna come in some sort of blue is my only question.

Well I was rooting to get "sifo blue" added to the list 

[azhdar]

Winkeyless PCB are ANSI only right?

[FoC_Tow]

Amazing work Dr. Hubble! Those renders look amazing! 
I can already hear my wallet begging for mercy, but definitely interested depending on when this happens!  xD

Besides the obvious choice of Sifo blue, I would personally really love to see a white version of the case, but maybe its just me.

I generally love the clean looks of white cases and always wondered why there pretty much aren't any white aluminum cases as far as I know,
and white should additionally also go pretty well with the NASA theme in my opinion. 

Not sure if white can be anodized (kinda guess it can't) but maybe a white powder coat could be an option?

[Signature]

Amazing work Dr. Hubble! Those renders look amazing! 
I can already hear my wallet begging for mercy, but definitely interested depending on when this happens!  xD

Besides the obvious choice of Sifo blue, I would personally really love to see a white version of the case, but maybe its just me.

I generally love the clean looks of white cases and always wondered why there pretty much aren't any white aluminum cases as far as I know,
and white should additionally also go pretty well with the NASA theme in my opinion. 

Not sure if white can be anodized (kinda guess it can't) but maybe a white powder coat could be an option?

Not possible I'm afraid. Since these cases are anodized and to anodize white isn't possible

[Cottonsox]

Hoping to get one in a gunmetal or blue/grey (darker is better )

[FoC_Tow]

Amazing work Dr. Hubble! Those renders look amazing! 
I can already hear my wallet begging for mercy, but definitely interested depending on when this happens!  xD

Besides the obvious choice of Sifo blue, I would personally really love to see a white version of the case, but maybe its just me.

I generally love the clean looks of white cases and always wondered why there pretty much aren't any white aluminum cases as far as I know,
and white should additionally also go pretty well with the NASA theme in my opinion. 

Not sure if white can be anodized (kinda guess it can't) but maybe a white powder coat could be an option?

Not possible I'm afraid. Since these cases are anodized and to anodize white isn't possible

Thx for clearing that up Signature!
And no worries since I was already expecting anodizing to not work with white.

However the OP doesn't specify anodized I think, altho you're probably right that's what it will be...
It would theoretically be possible to powder coat aluminum white tho, right?

If white isn't an option I would definitely choose gunmetal grey.
Or maybe make a non anodized version for diy powder coats? xD

[dakuzo]

Looking at these renders, I'm thinking I would choose the Mira over the TX87 and Orion V2.
Amazing work DrHubble! 

[Usarise]

Amazing work Dr. Hubble! Those renders look amazing! 
I can already hear my wallet begging for mercy, but definitely interested depending on when this happens!  xD

Besides the obvious choice of Sifo blue, I would personally really love to see a white version of the case, but maybe its just me.

I generally love the clean looks of white cases and always wondered why there pretty much aren't any white aluminum cases as far as I know,
and white should additionally also go pretty well with the NASA theme in my opinion. 

Not sure if white can be anodized (kinda guess it can't) but maybe a white powder coat could be an option?

Not possible I'm afraid. Since these cases are anodized and to anodize white isn't possible

Aww I was really hoping for some kind of a white too...
Maybe a sexy silver option?
(Blue would be the next choice :3)

[njbair]

I'm really intrigued by this board. It's way more refined than the Orion v2, not as flashy. And I love the attention to detail "under the hood" like the SS weight in the bottom. Something nobody will ever see but that doesn't mean it doesn't matter. Nice touch.

The rough timeline of summertime means that a lot of folks will likely be getting some nice keycap sets in the mail around then, like GMK Hyperfuse...and hopefully the Triumph Adler GMK set as well. Even the GMK Dolch sets that are shipping right now. I don't know how customizable anodize colors are but it might be good to consider including some finishes with these GB sets in mind. I would definitely buy one to go with GMK Hyperfuse. Not that selling 100 of these will be a problem either way.

[LXXXIX]

Interested! Though I may have to sell my soul to be able to afford this.

I'd love to see purple or a gunmetal color.

[DrHubblePhD]

Winkeyless PCB are ANSI only right?

Yes I believe so, sorry if you were hoping for ISO.

Amazing work Dr. Hubble! Those renders look amazing! 
I can already hear my wallet begging for mercy, but definitely interested depending on when this happens!  xD

Besides the obvious choice of Sifo blue, I would personally really love to see a white version of the case, but maybe its just me.

I generally love the clean looks of white cases and always wondered why there pretty much aren't any white aluminum cases as far as I know,
and white should additionally also go pretty well with the NASA theme in my opinion. 

Not sure if white can be anodized (kinda guess it can't) but maybe a white powder coat could be an option?

Not possible I'm afraid. Since these cases are anodized and to anodize white isn't possible

Thx for clearing that up Signature!
And no worries since I was already expecting anodizing to not work with white.

However the OP doesn't specify anodized I think, altho you're probably right that's what it will be...
It would theoretically be possible to powder coat aluminum white tho, right?

If white isn't an option I would definitely choose gunmetal grey.
Or maybe make a non anodized version for diy powder coats? xD

Yeah, white will likely not be an option since I would like to stick to anodization for this. That said, if you want a powder coated board there is nothing stopping you from doing that yourself!

[FoC_Tow]

Yeah, white will likely not be an option since I would like to stick to anodization for this. That said, if you want a powder coated board there is nothing stopping you from doing that yourself!

Thx for the Info Dr! 
I can definitely understand you don't want to add the potential extra trouble caused by doing different finishes.

I'm still wondering if you can actually even powder coat (especially anodized) aluminum...
I will probably stick with the original finish tho, because I don't really want to risk bringing a beautifully piece like this
to a shop and trust them with powder coating it. 

(The additional thickness of a powder coat might very well also cause issues with tolerances, especially on for example the Mira inlay I guess)

So ruling out powder coating for now, I would vote for (gunmetal) grey! xD

[JaccoW]

Alu case with potentially blue anodization, acrylic inserts and a cosmological background?

Colour me interested. 

[jdcarpe]

Yeah, white will likely not be an option since I would like to stick to anodization for this. That said, if you want a powder coated board there is nothing stopping you from doing that yourself!

Thx for the Info Dr! 
I can definitely understand you don't want to add the potential extra trouble caused by doing different finishes.

I'm still wondering if you can actually even powder coat (especially anodized) aluminum...
I will probably stick with the original finish tho, because I don't really want to risk bringing a beautifully piece like this
to a shop and trust them with powder coating it. 

(The additional thickness of a powder coat might very well also cause issues with tolerances, especially on for example the Mira inlay I guess)

So ruling out powder coating for now, I would vote for (gunmetal) grey! xD

You could always use Rainbow Paint & Blasting in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. That's who most Geekhackers have been using for powdercoating, and I understand they are very good at it. Ask for Tammi, and tell her you're from Geekhack.

http://rainbowrpb.com/

[jonathanyu]

So... is it gonna come in some sort of blue is my only question.

Well I was rooting to get "sifo blue" added to the list 

Sifo like pink as well ) pink please!

[FoC_Tow]

Yeah, white will likely not be an option since I would like to stick to anodization for this. That said, if you want a powder coated board there is nothing stopping you from doing that yourself!

Thx for the Info Dr! 
I can definitely understand you don't want to add the potential extra trouble caused by doing different finishes.

I'm still wondering if you can actually even powder coat (especially anodized) aluminum...
I will probably stick with the original finish tho, because I don't really want to risk bringing a beautifully piece like this
to a shop and trust them with powder coating it. 

(The additional thickness of a powder coat might very well also cause issues with tolerances, especially on for example the Mira inlay I guess)

So ruling out powder coating for now, I would vote for (gunmetal) grey! xD

You could always use Rainbow Paint & Blasting in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. That's who most Geekhackers have been using for powdercoating, and I understand they are very good at it. Ask for Tammi, and tell her you're from Geekhack.

http://rainbowrpb.com/

Wow, awesome!
Thanks a lot for the tip JD, big time! 

Giving it to someone experienced in doing cases, that Geekhackers have been using and made good experiences with before, is definitely very reassuring
and makes it less scary to give away and trust someone with powder coating it.

Sending it in won't be an issue I guess, except for the shipping cost pain from Germany (which you kinda get used to xD )
and also knowing its in good hands and the reduced risk probably makes up for that....

Ill definitely check out the possibility and contact them! =)

[IonutZ]

+1 count me in.

[katushkin]

I need a custom. I'm in for one.

[jdcarpe]

Sending it in won't be an issue I guess, except for the shipping cost pain from Germany (which you kinda get used to xD )
and also knowing its in good hands and the reduced risk probably makes up for that....

Ill definitely check out the possibility and contact them! =)

One thing you could do, if you have a US proxy, is to get your proxy to send just the case to Rainbow for you, and hold the rest of the kit. Then, when they received the case back from Rainbow, they could mail it on to you in Germany.

[FoC_Tow]

Sending it in won't be an issue I guess, except for the shipping cost pain from Germany (which you kinda get used to xD )
and also knowing its in good hands and the reduced risk probably makes up for that....

Ill definitely check out the possibility and contact them! =)

One thing you could do, if you have a US proxy, is to get your proxy to send just the case to Rainbow for you, and hold the rest of the kit. Then, when they received the case back from Rainbow, they could mail it on to you in Germany.

Good point JD!

I don't really have a US proxy to use atm, but there is services that offer just that to allow you to for example order things that would usually be conus only.
I've never really looked into this before tbh since the additional expense, risk and effort always felt kinda off putting, but I should probably read up on it.

On the other hand I'm wondering if I (incase I end up going the powder coating route) couldn't just have it delivered to Rainbow straight away, so they can powder coat the case before
mailing it to me...

[njbair]

Sending it in won't be an issue I guess, except for the shipping cost pain from Germany (which you kinda get used to xD )
and also knowing its in good hands and the reduced risk probably makes up for that....

Ill definitely check out the possibility and contact them! =)

One thing you could do, if you have a US proxy, is to get your proxy to send just the case to Rainbow for you, and hold the rest of the kit. Then, when they received the case back from Rainbow, they could mail it on to you in Germany.

Good point JD!

I don't really have a US proxy to use atm, but there is services that offer just that to allow you to for example order things that would usually be conus only.
I've never really looked into this before tbh since the additional expense, risk and effort always felt kinda off putting, but I should probably read up on it.

On the other hand I'm wondering if I (incase I end up going the powder coating route) couldn't just have it delivered to Rainbow straight away, so they can powder coat the case before
mailing it to me...

If they do that for you I'm sure it will be with the stipulation that you not tell anyone about it. They most likely don't want to be in the proxy shipping business.

[DanielT]

Interesting project. If I will have the money I would love #080 for a lot of reasons , for color I don't know blue sounds nice or some cool gray.

[njbair]

Hopefully those of you with # preferences can find a way to land your preference. Maybe you can arrange for a swap with whomever gets the number you want. Of course, the only catch would be if you want one of the gold stab numbers, you may need to pay the other party a premium.

Personally, I hope to get a number between 1-100.

[FoC_Tow]

Sending it in won't be an issue I guess, except for the shipping cost pain from Germany (which you kinda get used to xD )
and also knowing its in good hands and the reduced risk probably makes up for that....

Ill definitely check out the possibility and contact them! =)

One thing you could do, if you have a US proxy, is to get your proxy to send just the case to Rainbow for you, and hold the rest of the kit. Then, when they received the case back from Rainbow, they could mail it on to you in Germany.

Good point JD!

I don't really have a US proxy to use atm, but there is services that offer just that to allow you to for example order things that would usually be conus only.
I've never really looked into this before tbh since the additional expense, risk and effort always felt kinda off putting, but I should probably read up on it.

On the other hand I'm wondering if I (incase I end up going the powder coating route) couldn't just have it delivered to Rainbow straight away, so they can powder coat the case before
mailing it to me...

If they do that for you I'm sure it will be with the stipulation that you not tell anyone about it. They most likely don't want to be in the proxy shipping business.

They would receive something to powder coat either way (just straight from the manufacturer in this case) and would also have to send it to me in Germany either way so I don't see how this would be a proxy shipping business.

Its pretty much a customization service either way, no matter who they receive the case from in my opinion. The only difference would be that they have to unbox and separate both case and pcb and store the pcb while working on the case.

It's not like I'm not planning on using their actual service and abuse them as a proxy shipping business...
Nothing to be hidden here I guess xD

[feizor]

The specs on this are perfect.

[DrHubblePhD]

Hopefully those of you with # preferences can find a way to land your preference. Maybe you can arrange for a swap with whomever gets the number you want. Of course, the only catch would be if you want one of the gold stab numbers, you may need to pay the other party a premium.

Personally, I hope to get a number between 1-100.

Please no bidding wars while the buy is still going on  If you want to try and trade afterwards for a premium that would be more acceptable.  )

[HPE1000]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

[njbair]

Hopefully those of you with # preferences can find a way to land your preference. Maybe you can arrange for a swap with whomever gets the number you want. Of course, the only catch would be if you want one of the gold stab numbers, you may need to pay the other party a premium.

Personally, I hope to get a number between 1-100.

Please no bidding wars while the buy is still going on  If you want to try and trade afterwards for a premium that would be more acceptable.  )

At any point did you consider allowing reservations? I know it might make things a pain in a lot of ways but just curious.

[njbair]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

[DrHubblePhD]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

I think the anodization makes he aluminum corrosion resistant. LZ has been using SS weights for a while now as well without problems.

Hopefully those of you with # preferences can find a way to land your preference. Maybe you can arrange for a swap with whomever gets the number you want. Of course, the only catch would be if you want one of the gold stab numbers, you may need to pay the other party a premium.

Personally, I hope to get a number between 1-100.

Please no bidding wars while the buy is still going on  If you want to try and trade afterwards for a premium that would be more acceptable.  )

At any point did you consider allowing reservations? I know it might make things a pain in a lot of ways but just curious.

No, I don't want to discourage people from participating in the GB just because a number they like was taken  ) it also becomes a pain when people reserve one then do not pay. Trust me, this will be fun

[HPE1000]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

[njbair]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

I think the anodization makes he aluminum corrosion resistant. LZ has been using SS weights for a while now as well without problems.

Hopefully those of you with # preferences can find a way to land your preference. Maybe you can arrange for a swap with whomever gets the number you want. Of course, the only catch would be if you want one of the gold stab numbers, you may need to pay the other party a premium.

Personally, I hope to get a number between 1-100.

Please no bidding wars while the buy is still going on  If you want to try and trade afterwards for a premium that would be more acceptable.  )

At any point did you consider allowing reservations? I know it might make things a pain in a lot of ways but just curious.

No, I don't want to discourage people from participating in the GB just because a number they like was taken  ) it also becomes a pain when people reserve one then do not pay. Trust me, this will be fun

Fair enough. I suppose if someone really wants it in a different color they can make the trade for the right number then pay to have it stripped and re-anodized.

[iamtootallforthis]

I might be down for one. Depends on if I have the money when the time comes!

[njbair]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

The oxide layer is basically the same hardness as ruby, so it wins the scratch war versus most metals. Also, the parts won't be moving around once assembled.

Doc also said he would look into hard anodized finish, which is even thicker. Although maintaining tolerances will be more difficult that way...

[slickmamba]

OOO want to see these built in blockers

[DrHubblePhD]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

The oxide layer is basically the same hardness as ruby, so it wins the scratch war versus most metals. Also, the parts won't be moving around once assembled.

Doc also said he would look into hard anodized finish, which is even thicker. Although maintaining tolerances will be more difficult that way...

I have purposely built in margins around the slotted portions of the weight so that the weight can inserted and screwed in without damaging the case. I figure that margin would also allow for hard ano to be a viable option.

[CommonCurt]

Yes,  forgot to mention that I'd be interested in a grey case with built in win blockers.

[Bromono]

Count me in for one plz!

[njbair]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

The oxide layer is basically the same hardness as ruby, so it wins the scratch war versus most metals. Also, the parts won't be moving around once assembled.

Doc also said he would look into hard anodized finish, which is even thicker. Although maintaining tolerances will be more difficult that way...

I have purposely built in margins around the slotted portions of the weight so that the weight can inserted and screwed in without damaging the case. I figure that margin would also allow for hard ano to be a viable option.

I'd assumed this kind of thing would be accounted for. It's just the first time in a couple years I've used the fab + finishing part of my brain... All these considerations are rushing back to me. I'm confident this board will be top-notch.

How is the acrylic logo going to fit in the cutout? Is it going to be molded in-place?

[DrHubblePhD]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

The oxide layer is basically the same hardness as ruby, so it wins the scratch war versus most metals. Also, the parts won't be moving around once assembled.

Doc also said he would look into hard anodized finish, which is even thicker. Although maintaining tolerances will be more difficult that way...

I have purposely built in margins around the slotted portions of the weight so that the weight can inserted and screwed in without damaging the case. I figure that margin would also allow for hard ano to be a viable option.

I'd assumed this kind of thing would be accounted for. It's just the first time in a couple years I've used the fab + finishing part of my brain... All these considerations are rushing back to me. I'm confident this board will be top-notch.

How is the acrylic logo going to fit in the cutout? Is it going to be molded in-place?

Not finalized yet, it depends on how snug it will fit in. If the milling is precise enough and it fits in tight then it may not require any fixing, otherwise screw holes will likely be added.

[njbair]

Perhaps someone can explain this, as I have been thinking. Isn't there a risk you are running using stainless steel inserts on an aluminum board? Galvanic corrosion.

Anodizing should prevent this since the thick oxide layer is nonconductive. Plus you need significant moisture for galvanic corrosion to occur anyways.

Couldn't the contact between the two pieces cause scratches which could allow it to happen? I guess the chances are really low, nothing to worry about probably.

The oxide layer is basically the same hardness as ruby, so it wins the scratch war versus most metals. Also, the parts won't be moving around once assembled.

Doc also said he would look into hard anodized finish, which is even thicker. Although maintaining tolerances will be more difficult that way...

I have purposely built in margins around the slotted portions of the weight so that the weight can inserted and screwed in without damaging the case. I figure that margin would also allow for hard ano to be a viable option.

I'd assumed this kind of thing would be accounted for. It's just the first time in a couple years I've used the fab + finishing part of my brain... All these considerations are rushing back to me. I'm confident this board will be top-notch.

How is the acrylic logo going to fit in the cutout? Is it going to be molded in-place?

Not finalized yet, it depends on how snug it will fit in. If the milling is precise enough and it fits in tight then it may not require any fixing, otherwise screw holes will likely be added.

For a tight fit here you might want to mask off the walls of the logo so the Anodize won't affect the finish size.