Author Topic: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide  (Read 441810 times)

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Offline Blackfire74

  • Posts: 2
Re: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide
« Reply #600 on: Thu, 03 November 2022, 18:02:43 »
OK, I just get this Akko 3087 9009 Retro keyboard, and after few days I replaced cursor switches to Gateron Milky Yellow linears pre-lubed, as this keyboard was equipped with Akko Orange tactiles, which are great but DRY. After getting Gaterons I realize that, as a noob of course. After two weeks I was not that happy about those Akko switches, gritty, loud, scratchy, loud, thin sounding, loud... I have no chance to get Krytox but found few mini bottles of so called "appliance oil", aka machine oil, and what pushed me to use this oil was those bottles are tiny and have really thin applicator. Thin like syringe needle. So I said: if I'm not satisfied, I have two choices, change the switches or try this oil. Can't 'be worse! Now I'm glad I did use it. My switches are plate mounted but no hot-swap, soldered. I did change four of them, but 83 more was too much! I was just pushing stems down with toothpick and apllied oil on the sides where sliders are, just enough to see the lube sticking between casing and stem. Both sides of a switch. I tried this on ScrLk, which is unused so nothing to worry. After puting cap back I was like: OMFG!!! Instant effect and the sound of a switch was exactly like I wanted from very beginning. Really thocky, little muffled, and I stopped blaming thin loud, Lego-like sounding caps. I wish I could record the sound and let you guys hear. Perfect. Besides, from first day I'm using o-rings and I put thin strips of kinesiology tape underneath  long caps. All three mods led me to this perfect sound. So far I didn't notice that oil looses its properties over time. I know, it is about a week from appying oil but every day I feel the same.
This oil was for Braun electric shaver, and in the mechanism there is a lot of plastic parts and no one said it can't be applied on plastic. Shaving head is made from plastic with metal blades, protective mesh on the top of shaving head is also plastic / metal composition, as well as inside parts. All made from plastic and metal and after years of lubing nothing happened, and I didn't use keyboard as often and heavy as my shaver. Still alive! Afterwards, oil is spreading inside by itself wherever it can, but construction of switches doesn't allow oil to go onto blades.
That's it. It is safe. Using ONLY Krytox is a marketing skeem. Oil prevents switches from sticky-ness, less viscosity and if it is good for fast rotating parts over the years, it will be good for switches, and it doesn't require switch opening. Less invasive, less time consuming and good for people who are scared messing with delicate components.
I suppse any minor exccess flows down to spring too, as I don't hear any ping anymore, accidentaly. And I use keyboard at nights mostly.
« Last Edit: Thu, 03 November 2022, 18:10:32 by Blackfire74 »

Offline Blackfire74

  • Posts: 2
Re: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide
« Reply #601 on: Thu, 10 November 2022, 17:32:53 »
After a week of typing I didn't notice any anomalies ;) Oil didn't drip down, switches still working the same way as right after lubing. Same smoothness, no more no less.
If you are not a psycho about lubing and you want great smoothness without desoldering and/or opening switches, I recomend using my method. Super easy, same effect if not better. No mushiness because oil is thinner than Krytox.

Offline Leslieann

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 4513
Re: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide
« Reply #602 on: Thu, 10 November 2022, 19:58:18 »
A. Do NOT rely on a company telling you if a lube is NOT safe for plastic. You should only assume it is safe if it says it's safe... However, in this case we're talking a "specialty" lubricant made for a specialized product that contains plastic so yes, it's safe to assume it's safe. Just don't trust generic lube that doesn't specifically state such. Also it can takes weeks, months, years to break down the plastic, it doesn't always happen in minutes or even days.

B. Didn't drip down, are you sure? How do you know, did you open one and look? And you only waited a week. As above, it can take weeks to drip or even slow signs of slippage but you won't see any of it without taking it apart and checking it with a magnifying glass or microscope.

C. Thinner than Krytox, Krytox isn't just one lube or even 3 or 4, they sell an entire line of different lubes and oils of different viscosities. It's no different that Castrol selling different lubes and viscosities for cars.


As for what you accomplished...
I'm not going to argue it worked, however, all the dust and ground up plastic that was on the stems of those switches is now all mixed up in the lube and down inside the switch. Dirt and dust is conductive and dirt, dust and plastic are all abrasive. Being new helps and you may get lucky but try this on something older and your results could be very different. You also have no idea how it will perform long term. It got the job done, for now, but it's not the proper way to lube something if you want it to last.
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Offline nevin

  • Posts: 1646
  • Location: US
Re: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide
« Reply #603 on: Fri, 11 November 2022, 05:12:31 »
Thanks @Leslieann you beat me to it. Ditto.

There are many lubricants out there. Many will break down plastic, but you won't know it till the damage is already done.
Most "machine oils" are petroleum-based, meant for metal parts and WILL break down MOST plastics in time.

It's a good practice to make sure you lube is plastic-safe before using it on your keyboard.

There are many plastics used in the manufacturing of the components we use. Just because a lube was ok for nylon doesn't mean it's safe for ABS or Polyethylene or any of the other plastics we use in our keyboards.

I'm not saying krytox is your only choice. I'm saying do your homework & make sure sure your lube is safe for your keyboard.
« Last Edit: Fri, 11 November 2022, 05:23:08 by nevin »
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