Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[rowdy]

sooooo who's the best NA vendor if I wanna run a key set eyes emoji

They're all kinda sketchy and most seem to be constantly covered up with multiple buys going on in various states of success.

There was that one that posted a thread the other day claiming to be starting up in a couple months once their website is setup and their trademarks or names or whatever are patented, they got >$50K plus additional funding from their professor. They used a lot of fancy sounding words to. They deleted their GH post but one is still up on reddit.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

what's the consensus on MD now that they own us do we like em or not

I've never had much of a problem with them.

Some people complain about shipping time, but it takes around 3 weeks for stuff to arrive down here anyway, so an extra day either way doesn't make much difference.

My only gripe is that they don't ship to PO boxes.  I'm likely to move house again soon, but I don't know when, so I haven't been able to order anything from them for at least 6 months.

[rondg]

I haven't got the chance of using a gasket mount keyboard or any keyboard with a lot of flex and I would like to know if there is a noticeable difference in terms of feel and sound? I mainly use tactile switches but sometimes (very rare) I also switch to linear.

Will a gasket mount/burger mount pcb mounted keyboard an overkill?

[hawkingeta]

I have a very simple question, yet I don't know if the answer is that easy.
I am just in the middle of building my first mechanical keyboard and it is a 75% xd84. My problem is that I cannot decide on the layout of my bottom row.

Should I go with
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1u(ALT) 1u(FN/SUPER) 1u(CTRL) 1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right) OR
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1.5u(ALT)       1.5u(CTRL)           1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right)

I do not really plan on using the right FN/SUPER at the moment and might like the bigger ALT and CTRL keys more, maybe. My planned FN key is CAPS. Is it hard to get used to the 1u keys? What seems to be your experiences and suggestions?

Thanks!

[user 18]

I have a very simple question, yet I don't know if the answer is that easy.
I am just in the middle of building my first mechanical keyboard and it is a 75% xd84. My problem is that I cannot decide on the layout of my bottom row.

Should I go with
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1u(ALT) 1u(FN/SUPER) 1u(CTRL) 1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right) OR
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1.5u(ALT)       1.5u(CTRL)           1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right)

I do not really plan on using the right FN/SUPER at the moment and might like the bigger ALT and CTRL keys more, maybe. My planned FN key is CAPS. Is it hard to get used to the 1u keys? What seems to be your experiences and suggestions?

Thanks!

Personally, I've never had an issue with the 1u keys in a similar configuration on laptop boards. For mech boards, I've never used something smaller than 1.25, although just by chance. I don't think the 1u keys would be anything of an obstacle long-term, but might take a couple of days to get used to, as with any new layout.

If I'm unsure of what to do when I'm building a board, I often include the second option for a function key, even if I don't plan to use it. I find it useful to have function keys available on both sides of the board for some more exotic hotkey combinations that come up in some of the software I use (e.g. multiple modifiers plus a f-row key), or if I want to use the board one-handed briefly.

Hope that helps!

[hawkingeta]

I have a very simple question, yet I don't know if the answer is that easy.
I am just in the middle of building my first mechanical keyboard and it is a 75% xd84. My problem is that I cannot decide on the layout of my bottom row.

Should I go with
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1u(ALT) 1u(FN/SUPER) 1u(CTRL) 1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right) OR
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1.5u(ALT)       1.5u(CTRL)           1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right)

I do not really plan on using the right FN/SUPER at the moment and might like the bigger ALT and CTRL keys more, maybe. My planned FN key is CAPS. Is it hard to get used to the 1u keys? What seems to be your experiences and suggestions?

Thanks!

Personally, I've never had an issue with the 1u keys in a similar configuration on laptop boards. For mech boards, I've never used something smaller than 1.25, although just by chance. I don't think the 1u keys would be anything of an obstacle long-term, but might take a couple of days to get used to, as with any new layout.

If I'm unsure of what to do when I'm building a board, I often include the second option for a function key, even if I don't plan to use it. I find it useful to have function keys available on both sides of the board for some more exotic hotkey combinations that come up in some of the software I use (e.g. multiple modifiers plus a f-row key), or if I want to use the board one-handed briefly.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe you are right. Couldn't hurt to have one extra key in case I need it in the future. If I find that I am not able to hit the proper keys down there, I can still desolder the one key and change to 1,5u 1,5u from the 3 1u keys.

[HoffmanMyster]

I have a very simple question, yet I don't know if the answer is that easy.
I am just in the middle of building my first mechanical keyboard and it is a 75% xd84. My problem is that I cannot decide on the layout of my bottom row.

Should I go with
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1u(ALT) 1u(FN/SUPER) 1u(CTRL) 1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right) OR
1.25u(CTRL) 1.25u(SUPER) 1.25u(ALT) 6.25u(SPACE) 1.5u(ALT)       1.5u(CTRL)           1u(Left) 1u(DOWN) 1u(Right)

I do not really plan on using the right FN/SUPER at the moment and might like the bigger ALT and CTRL keys more, maybe. My planned FN key is CAPS. Is it hard to get used to the 1u keys? What seems to be your experiences and suggestions?

Thanks!

Personally, I've never had an issue with the 1u keys in a similar configuration on laptop boards. For mech boards, I've never used something smaller than 1.25, although just by chance. I don't think the 1u keys would be anything of an obstacle long-term, but might take a couple of days to get used to, as with any new layout.

If I'm unsure of what to do when I'm building a board, I often include the second option for a function key, even if I don't plan to use it. I find it useful to have function keys available on both sides of the board for some more exotic hotkey combinations that come up in some of the software I use (e.g. multiple modifiers plus a f-row key), or if I want to use the board one-handed briefly.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe you are right. Couldn't hurt to have one extra key in case I need it in the future. If I find that I am not able to hit the proper keys down there, I can still desolder the one key and change to 1,5u 1,5u from the 3 1u keys.

I'd agree with user 18 for functionality.  On a board that size, function keys can make a big difference for usability (depending on your use - if you never use F-row or alpha numpad, then a function key may not benefit you much since the 65% likely has the added keys you need).  At the same time, I have definitely foregone the function key in favor of aesthetics (I prefer the 1.5u look most times, since a bunch of 1u keys can look pretty cluttered). 

Hard to really go wrong either way, and as you said you can always change it later. 

[Legonut]

I haven't got the chance of using a gasket mount keyboard or any keyboard with a lot of flex and I would like to know if there is a noticeable difference in terms of feel and sound? I mainly use tactile switches but sometimes (very rare) I also switch to linear.

Will a gasket mount/burger mount pcb mounted keyboard an overkill?

I've tried two burger mount boards, and the feel isn't really affected. Unless you get super soft gaskets and bottom out for a really long time, you probably won't notice at all. The sound is affected, it deepens the bottom out sound and definitely reduces pinging. This still depends highly on the build of the board, switches, and keycaps.

[cspirou]

So I'm kinda curious about the planck layout. Is it really a serious keyboard people use or more of a novelty?

[Legonut]

So I'm kinda curious about the planck layout. Is it really a serious keyboard people use or more of a novelty?

It's definitely not a novelty, there are plenty of people who write and code on it for 8+ hrs a day, every day. For the most part, once you've got the layers memorized it's pretty fast to use. Some people like it for the uniqueness, sure, but others like the minimalist aesthetic/size. Their marketing argues for not leaving the home row, which is a goal for some.
I believe the Preonic (5x12) is a much more sensible layout, it's something you could put basically everything on just two layers, and for everyday typing you don't need to use the secondary layer too much.
Smaller layouts like the Gherkin, definitely go past the point of ergonomics, and aren't quicker than a Planck.

[Garfest]

Hey,

I have a GK64 and I was wondering if I could put the pcb from the GK64 into a Tofu Acrylic case?

Thanks. 

I'm a noob to mods and what not so any tips are well appreciated. 

[GLaDOS]

Hey all,

Can anyone help me get an idea of the manufacture date of an Apple Extended Keyboard II? It has ALPS-branded dampened creams, the model number is listed as M3501, the copyright date on the sticker is 1989. It's an ISO board made in Ireland. It has the graphical legends on the modifier keys as opposed to the written ones (i.e. "option, command"). Can anyone point me to the manufacture date sticker or does no such thing exist?

Many thanks.


EDIT: Found a marking on the inside of the top part of the casing. 12/93 which would put this right at the end of the production run. Leaving this here in case anyone else has the same question.

[ddrfraser1]

What keyboard is this?

[SpAmRaY]

What keyboard is this?

It's a steelseries Apex 350

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

[packleadercho]

Hi, I recently got my hands on a BOK.CP recently and I was hoping to get an acrylic plate cut for it; is there a way I can get a plate cut even if I don't have the plate files? I do have the board's brass plate with me. Thank you!

[LightningXI]

Hi, I recently got my hands on a BOK.CP recently and I was hoping to get an acrylic plate cut for it; is there a way I can get a plate cut even if I don't have the plate files? I do have the board's brass plate with me. Thank you!

If you can't reverse engineer the plate yourself then I suggest asking around for plate files.

[packleadercho]

Hi, I recently got my hands on a BOK.CP recently and I was hoping to get an acrylic plate cut for it; is there a way I can get a plate cut even if I don't have the plate files? I do have the board's brass plate with me. Thank you!

If you can't reverse engineer the plate yourself then I suggest asking around for plate files.

Yeah that would be ideal but BOK as well as TX hasn't been responsive to my efforts to contact them so reverse engineering seems to be my only option. I'll try and browse a bit more to see if the plate files have ever been posted. Thanks for your input!

[chellem]

Can't decide between a Varmilo VA87M and a Ducky One 2, both TKL.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4911  and https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4284

I want silent switches and some form of backlight which limited my options to these two keyboards. Is there anything better about the Varmilo keyboards? Is Ducky One 2 considered good quality? Never had a mechanical keyboard and plan on a $130 keyboard to last me many years.

[Benitone]

Can't decide between a Varmilo VA87M and a Ducky One 2, both TKL.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4911  and https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4284

I want silent switches and some form of backlight which limited my options to these two keyboards. Is there anything better about the Varmilo keyboards? Is Ducky One 2 considered good quality? Never had a mechanical keyboard and plan on a $130 keyboard to last me many years.

Get a gmmk hot swap keyboard. Adding the switches is just a Lego game. You'll spend 50 USD plus 30 - 60 USD for the switches. I can't recommend enough that product. High quality and solid. Available in ISO and ANSI. Tkl, full and 60%

[chellem]

Can't decide between a Varmilo VA87M and a Ducky One 2, both TKL.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4911  and https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4284

I want silent switches and some form of backlight which limited my options to these two keyboards. Is there anything better about the Varmilo keyboards? Is Ducky One 2 considered good quality? Never had a mechanical keyboard and plan on a $130 keyboard to last me many years.

Get a gmmk hot swap keyboard. Adding the switches is just a Lego game. You'll spend 50 USD plus 30 - 60 USD for the switches. I can't recommend enough that product. High quality and solid. Available in ISO and ANSI. Tkl, full and 60%

I live in Israel which means 50-60$ shipping  on the board + the silent switches are out of stock, which means I'll have to get separate switches and ship those... basically, it comes at roughly the same price.
Plus, I kind of want to have it pre-built without too many worries about assembling and lubing different parts myself...

[Benitone]

Can't decide between a Varmilo VA87M and a Ducky One 2, both TKL.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4911  and https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4284

I want silent switches and some form of backlight which limited my options to these two keyboards. Is there anything better about the Varmilo keyboards? Is Ducky One 2 considered good quality? Never had a mechanical keyboard and plan on a $130 keyboard to last me many years.

Get a gmmk hot swap keyboard. Adding the switches is just a Lego game. You'll spend 50 USD plus 30 - 60 USD for the switches. I can't recommend enough that product. High quality and solid. Available in ISO and ANSI. Tkl, full and 60%

I live in Israel which means 50-60$ shipping  on the board + the silent switches are out of stock, which means I'll have to get separate switches and ship those... basically, it comes at roughly the same price.
Plus, I kind of want to have it pre-built without too many worries about assembling and lubing different parts myself...

There's nothing that can go wrong assembling the keyboard. Stabilizers are preinstalled and lubed

[chellem]

Can't decide between a Varmilo VA87M and a Ducky One 2, both TKL.
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4911  and https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4284

I want silent switches and some form of backlight which limited my options to these two keyboards. Is there anything better about the Varmilo keyboards? Is Ducky One 2 considered good quality? Never had a mechanical keyboard and plan on a $130 keyboard to last me many years.

Get a gmmk hot swap keyboard. Adding the switches is just a Lego game. You'll spend 50 USD plus 30 - 60 USD for the switches. I can't recommend enough that product. High quality and solid. Available in ISO and ANSI. Tkl, full and 60%

I live in Israel which means 50-60$ shipping  on the board + the silent switches are out of stock, which means I'll have to get separate switches and ship those... basically, it comes at roughly the same price.
Plus, I kind of want to have it pre-built without too many worries about assembling and lubing different parts myself...

There's nothing that can go wrong assembling the keyboard. Stabilizers are preinstalled and lubed

Well, either way I can't purchase switches because they don't ship here and are out of stock where they do.(and even then - they're another $20 at minimum for shipping)

Do you know anything about the Ducky One 2 vs the Varmilo I mentioned? I'd really like some help on that front since building myself isn't a practical option right now.

[Darkling]

I also really need an opinion about VA87M. I love Koi model (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5146), but I don't know if it's good.

[top123]

Jumped from membrane to Gateron red. Everything seems nice, very good feeling but today on my third day I tested keyboard first time in game (Resident evil 7) and couple of times I accidentally activated movement controls (I activated movement controls when my fingers was just resting on switches). How long does it take to take full control of keyboard capabilities? Question for long times users of red switches: Do you mistype sometimes? If yes how often?

[hawkingeta]

Finished my second keyboard (xd84). First one (xd87) is working totally fine and I use it daily at work. The second one was intended for home use. However, I have the following problem. Some keys (Tab, Caps, W, A, F, G, J, L mainly middle row) do not seem to work 100% of the time. I found that when pressing the keycap in the top right or left corner, the button press is not registered. Every other key works fine in this way except those mentioned above. I tried to resoldier these keys but the problem persists. I even tried switching a key (Tab) but it is not easy to completely desoldier and put in a new key. And even the new key seems to have this problem..

So, I was thinking, bad PCB? Or more likely that I ****ed up soldiering somehow? Can anyone provide some insight? I am lost at this point and spent several evenings on this problem without any result. I rather not toss the whole keyboard in the bin if I can help it.
Thanks

[suicidal_orange]

Finished my second keyboard (xd84). First one (xd87) is working totally fine and I use it daily at work. The second one was intended for home use. However, I have the following problem. Some keys (Tab, Caps, W, A, F, G, J, L mainly middle row) do not seem to work 100% of the time. I found that when pressing the keycap in the top right or left corner, the button press is not registered. Every other key works fine in this way except those mentioned above. I tried to resoldier these keys but the problem persists. I even tried switching a key (Tab) but it is not easy to completely desoldier and put in a new key. And even the new key seems to have this problem..

So, I was thinking, bad PCB? Or more likely that I ****ed up soldiering somehow? Can anyone provide some insight? I am lost at this point and spent several evenings on this problem without any result. I rather not toss the whole keyboard in the bin if I can help it.
Thanks

To test it you can touch the two switch solder points with anything conductive (bent paperclip, scissors...) which is the same as pressing the switch and see if it registers.  If that works reliably it's the switch, if it doesn't it's the PCB.  As the other board works I'm assuming it's not the soldering, though maybe you just got lucky - I don't know how much experience you have so you'd be a better judge of that.

[_rubik]

Easy question: where do you all buy your lube?

[Sifo]

Easy question: where do you all buy your lube?

switchmod.net

[hawkingeta]

Finished my second keyboard (xd84). First one (xd87) is working totally fine and I use it daily at work. The second one was intended for home use. However, I have the following problem. Some keys (Tab, Caps, W, A, F, G, J, L mainly middle row) do not seem to work 100% of the time. I found that when pressing the keycap in the top right or left corner, the button press is not registered. Every other key works fine in this way except those mentioned above. I tried to resoldier these keys but the problem persists. I even tried switching a key (Tab) but it is not easy to completely desoldier and put in a new key. And even the new key seems to have this problem..

So, I was thinking, bad PCB? Or more likely that I ****ed up soldiering somehow? Can anyone provide some insight? I am lost at this point and spent several evenings on this problem without any result. I rather not toss the whole keyboard in the bin if I can help it.
Thanks

To test it you can touch the two switch solder points with anything conductive (bent paperclip, scissors...) which is the same as pressing the switch and see if it registers.  If that works reliably it's the switch, if it doesn't it's the PCB.  As the other board works I'm assuming it's not the soldering, though maybe you just got lucky - I don't know how much experience you have so you'd be a better judge of that.

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried that and it was working reliably, so I ordered a couple more switches and try to change them and see if they are better.

Thank you for that!!!

[pabile]

those who have spare pcb mount and plate mount cherry stabilizers. will you be kind enough to confirm that this part (axis?) is interchangeable? can i use this part from a pcb mount stabilizer in a plate mount stabilizer and vice versa?

[Sifo]

those who have spare pcb mount and plate mount cherry stabilizers. will you be kind enough to confirm that this part (axis?) is interchangeable? can i use this part from a pcb mount stabilizer in a plate mount stabilizer and vice versa?
(Attachment Link)

yes it's the same

[Grandmasternoob]

guys, why so cheap? or is it a fake krytox?

https://txkeyboards.com/en/shop/peripherals/krytox-us-only-detail

[pabile]

yes it's the same

i gambled and ordered a pcb mount couple of days ago  thanks a lot for the confirmation!

[LightningXI]

guys, why so cheap? or is it a fake krytox?

https://txkeyboards.com/en/shop/peripherals/krytox-us-only-detail

Probably due to ease of buying in bulk. Also g2 is more readily available than, say, g0

[ajx]

Hello guys, i have question about bluetooth mechanical keboard
Any latence when typing/gaming?
Some of jerk bluetooth keyboards come with delay wakeup after being into sleep mode, i hate that, it could last several secondes before pressing key was registered
Thanks

[godofdeath]

Any recommendations on good 84 keyboards? Need my f keys closer for gaming and saving desk space.

Thanks

[pchoi]

Hi!! I'm very new to the keyboard scene, but I can already say I am looking for a particular type of keyboard, and was curious to see if anyone here could help me decide where/how to find one. My ideal set up is a:

- Polycarbonate TKL
- QMK or other customization (I use a mac)
- Underglow and RGB (bc I want it to show through the semi-clear polycarb)
- USB-C
- Ideally under $250 or even cheaper... (but I understand prices can get wild)

One that I have found is the TGR A17, but I have no clue where I could even get my hands on one, or if there will ever be another run of them. Another one I have looked at is the Gon Nerd TKL in polycarbonate, which is a cheap alternative, but i've heard mixed reviews and would rather get something quality that I can trust. Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks!

[andj00]

What type of stabilizers does the XD64 PCB use? PCB Screw in or Push in?

[user 18]

What type of stabilizers does the XD64 PCB use? PCB Screw in or Push in?

I don't think there's a difference on the PCB side between the two, the screws go through the same holes that the clips would use.

[ddrfraser1]

Are BTC sliders compatible with Topre?

[envyy24]

Is it safe to buy Akko keyboard from ebay? Im in the UK.

[HotTahdy]

I am not sure if this is a simple question but I am a fairly new mechanical keyboard enthusiast who is super interest in building a kit.

My question is: What is a good/budget kit for a beginner (who has no soldering experience YET)?

There are so many cool group buys that I think look great but I am not confident enough in my skill to invest 300+ on kit.

I idea kit would be a 65%-80% size range.

I have a Corsair M70 with MX browns and I recently bought a Ducky One2 Mini 60% with brown switches. I like the ducky but I would like a bigger size plus my S switch is already acting funny and spamming additional S's when I am typing which is annoying.

[Trmi8120]

Anybody got any idea what protocol the Wang 725 uses? Saw a listing for one on ebay and it appeared to use a ps/2 plug. Deskthority’s wiki said 6P6C (no idea what that is) and I’m not sure if it’ll work fine on modern computers with a simple ps/2 to usb converter.

[fohat.digs]

That is a plug that looks like an ethernet connection.

Soarer's firmware will sometimes work, but not usually.

[Trmi8120]

That is a plug that looks like an ethernet connection.

Soarer's firmware will sometimes work, but not usually.

arrgh. Thought I could get off with a cheap $5 converter. Guess I'll continue looking for another board.

[fohat.digs]

Contact Orihalcon and ask him if his adapter cable will work.

If it is this one, it is pretty valuable for its key caps alone:

[Trmi8120]

Was an alps electric model, salmon alps w/ dyesubs.

case was yellowed w/ "tan lines" from where the card things were

Seller cleaned the switched and bored which is cool I guess.

Listing is here if ya wanna check it out. A bit pricey for me but the seller drops the price every once and a while (was $180 a week ago)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Vintage-WANG-724-Keyboard-PINK-SKCM-Alps-725-4500-US-CHEAT-SHEET/264524089751?epid=14034817915&hash=item3d96dd4997:g:vIkAAOSwN4Bdwv~E:sc:USPSPriority!21043!US!-1

[Tom_Kazansky]

Hi, my keyboards have type C connector which follows ai03's type c guide,
is there any problems if I use "quick charge" (and data) cables with my keyboards? (I mean don't "quick charge" cables have high-current, would that affect my keyboard?)

[pchoi]

Hello! I have a question about purchasing a group-buy keyboard. I'm fairly new and just was curious, do most people buy multiple PCBs for their custom keyboard, just in the odd case that one might fail? Or do the manufacturers do well in making sure you have a fully functioning PCB? Any advice is welcomed. Thanks!

[invariance]

Hi, my keyboards have type C connector which follows ai03's type c guide,
is there any problems if I use "quick charge" (and data) cables with my keyboards? (I mean don't "quick charge" cables have high-current, would that affect my keyboard?)

Won’t be a problem.  Your keyboard will only draw as much current as it needs and using a cable with a higher capacity won’t force more current into the device.

[bananasplit_00]

Hello,

When buying my first custom keyboard and switches(all second hand) i got a bag with unknown lube that the seller claimed they used on everything. Worked amazing for about a day and has since made my switches extremely scratchy. How do i get it off, its not water soluble and i have no idea what it is, it came in an unmarked ziplock bag