The Bike Thread!

[JP]

CK prices are crazy but when you read everywhere of people running the old version with the occasionally dodgy o-ring seal for 15 years without touching them the current/improved version doesn't sound like a bad invesment.  If it wasn't so tall I'd have bought one.

I like your thinking with the paint - sometimes the simple ideas are the best!  I have a can of black under my bed and pretty sure it's matte even.  If spraypaint has a shelf life of 10 years that is...

What happens when a headset wears out, does it just get stiff, crunchy and creaky or is it a potential health hazzard?  I ride along a canal with headphones on so it's pretty straight and I'm unlikely to notice noises.  I rode the full ~17 miles with my front brake rubbing and wondered why it was hard going, it was only luck that I locked my headphones in at work that day so heard it as soon as I set off for home otherwise who knows how long I would have carried on

If your headset is grinding, gritty and mucky, your bearings might not be in the best shape. Check out this video on how to strip your headset, degrease and clean your bearings, re-grease them properly and re-assemble. Regarding old spray paint you could shake it very well and test it on something but it's hard to say how good it still is. At least spray paint is pretty cheap.

[JP]

Also it wasn't too long ago that a new bike I soon found out had inferior components and virtually had no grease anywhere including the bearings. I took apart the bearings which I discovered got wet and started to rust  To make due I tore them apart, ran them through a sonic cleaner and applied liberal amounts of grease where needed.

[Sniping]

headsets are an unsexy part but pretty important. used chris king headsets go for around $80. if that's too much too shell out then fsa/cane creek ones are just fine for half the price.

[suicidal_orange]

Also it wasn't too long ago that a new bike I soon found out had inferior components and virtually had no grease anywhere including the bearings. I took apart the bearings which I discovered got wet and started to rust  To make due I tore them apart, ran them through a sonic cleaner and applied liberal amounts of grease where needed.

That's the situation here - the headset in my 'new' bike is only £15 to replace full price (FSA No.10) so it can't be great.  I guess the pot of grease would come in handy when fitting a replacement whenever though so so may as well rip it apart and add some.  It should be fine at around 500 miles, maybe 50 in moderate rain.

used chris king headsets go for around $80. if that's too much too shell out then fsa/cane creek ones are just fine for half the price.

They do, if I wanted any colour except matte black!  The matte one I can only find one place new in the UK for whatever reason, just happens to be on my way to work so no postage to pay, it's the added height not the money that puts me off.  Do you know which FSA/Cane Creek ones aren't shiny?  All sites just say 'black' and have pics with bright lights which can make anything look quite shiny.  Very helpful...

Though I guess I could upgrade and still get out the spraycans )

[suicidal_orange]

So I'm still looking at headsets and am trying to assess the potential geometry impact of the CK.  According to this site the lower stack height is 13.7mm so am I right in thinking on this calculator I could just add 13.7mm to the fork height to make the same difference?  That looks like this:

[ Specified attachment is not available ]

7.5mm reach is easily fixed with a longer stem and the head angle will still bigger the smaller models of the same bike while the seat angle will be just below the largest, so I guess these are within the manufacturers recommended range.  I suspect the answer will be 'some people will notice a huge difference others won't notice anything' but I'll ask anyway - will this make a noticeable difference?

[suicidal_orange]

Headset shopping is on hold while I struggle with gear problems, as usual I've messed with everything without knowing what I'm doing and seems something went wrong.  I'd rather work it out than pay someone so I can fix it next time too...

From reading after doing it when you change your cassette or chainrings you're supposed to buy a new chain - I didn't.  I replaced my cassette after maybe 100 miles and then got shorter cranks with what looked to be lightly used chainrings after my crash at about 500 miles.  Managed another ~100 miles before the chain started to come off the chainrings and after abusing the shifter to get it back on I landed up with a twisted chain.

I've replaced the chain and tested/tweaked both deraileurs and for the first 20 miles it was OK, but today the chain came off again.  I still have compatible chainrings on the longer cranks and the nearly new cassette I took off ages ago so I could switch them back in but is that overkill?  Is it possible that a chain can damage the chainrings so quickly (100miles) and if so could they have damged the new chain even quicker (25miles)?

[JP]

Headset shopping is on hold while I struggle with gear problems, as usual I've messed with everything without knowing what I'm doing and seems something went wrong.  I'd rather work it out than pay someone so I can fix it next time too...

From reading after doing it when you change your cassette or chainrings you're supposed to buy a new chain - I didn't.  I replaced my cassette after maybe 100 miles and then got shorter cranks with what looked to be lightly used chainrings after my crash at about 500 miles.  Managed another ~100 miles before the chain started to come off the chainrings and after abusing the shifter to get it back on I landed up with a twisted chain.

I've replaced the chain and tested/tweaked both deraileurs and for the first 20 miles it was OK, but today the chain came off again.  I still have compatible chainrings on the longer cranks and the nearly new cassette I took off ages ago so I could switch them back in but is that overkill?  Is it possible that a chain can damage the chainrings so quickly (100miles) and if so could they have damged the new chain even quicker (25miles)?

The chain came off the front or the rear? Under what conditions? Shifting under heavy load? Also you may go through 3-4x chains before you wear through a cassette. It's better to just go with a new chain with a new cassette as a new cassette can wear faster while using a well used or worn chain. Also are you running a different gear ratio now and swapping cassette and chain ring?

Also are you prepared to watch YouTube maintenance videos, service manuals, and buy tools to work on your stuff with the possibility you get stuck in the process? Doing your own maintenance can definitely be rewarding though. You mentioned a crash so things might be out of whack so maybe you need a full tuneup anyhow.

https://road.cc/content/feature/201548-how-stop-your-chain-coming-dropped-chain-can-damage-your-bike-or-even-cause

[suicidal_orange]

Thanks JP, videos generally annoy me with their pacing (take too long to say something obvious then skip past something that's not - especially bad when covered in oil!) but I'm definitely hands on with this.  Using old school written guides and pictures so far I've fitted a new cassette and disc brake rotor to new wheels and replaced the handlebars which meant new brake cables and swaped the cranks as well as tweaking the gears after the new cables (new bike) stretched - next up headset and BB, though they need expensive tools given how infrequently I'll use them so I might cheat.  Or use a block of wood...

The only problem is getting stuck which is not an option as I use the bike to get to work, hence having to ride on and risk further damage.  Having just woken up I have 2 hours to 'fix' it before it's effectively gone 11pm and I can't make noise in the garage.

The new chain is a 114 link as the 'new' cassette doesn't get close to the 32T on the old one, plenty of play left in the rear derailure so this seems a good choice.  The cranks are the same model with the same size chainrings as the originals and the teeth looked good so I was expecting this change to go just as smoothly.  Where the line between 'moderate' and 'heavy' load is I have no idea but the last time it came off it was on reasonable tarmac having survived heavier load over bumpy mud and gravel.  There is one complication in that for whatever reason the 2x bike was sold with a 3x front shifter so after my latest tweaking session I had to double click both ways, which isn't ideal.  I'll watch your video then get out and have another go, I guess it's going to say H screw but when last I looked there wasn't 1mm of gap so can't do much with that!

Edit:  Tried to move the front derailure down slightly with the cable attached, needless to say that didn't go well.  Moved it to do nothing so will be running an 8 speed today.  I did switch the cassette back so hopefully 50x32 is low enough for the only real hill I have to deal with, if not I'll be walking for a little bit )

[xtrafrood]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

[JP]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.

[xtrafrood]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.

I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits.  Quaint yet effective.

[tp4tissue]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.

I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits.  Quaint yet effective.

Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..

Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ?  Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..

[xtrafrood]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.

I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits.  Quaint yet effective.

Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..

Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ?  Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..

I'm not sure how mountain biking fits into this conversation.  Or bears..

[Sniping]

After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to  :pfixed speed.

I hated adjusting those things.

One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.

I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits.  Quaint yet effective.

Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..

Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ?  Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..

That's why mountain bikers bring bear bells!

So I received a bike that I got from shipping yesterday.......and a good chunk of paint came off of the carbon frame during transit. Very sad. It's a pro tour level frame too.

[JP]

If mountains were included they would be bikes with mountains or mountains with bikes depending on the distributor. I can confirm, I outran a bear but there is definitely a scaling problem once more bears are introduced. Odds of survival decrease exponentially with more bears so ymmv.

[JP]

So I received a bike that I got from shipping yesterday.......and a good chunk of paint came off of the carbon frame during transit. Very sad. It's a pro tour level frame too.

As my old bike shop used to say... That's what stickers are for lol

[xtrafrood]

I walk talking about a vintage 10 speed Schwinn tour bike I converted into a single speed.  But sure, bears, beets, etc..

[tp4tissue]

If mountains were included they would be bikes with mountains or mountains with bikes depending on the distributor. I can confirm, I outran a bear but there is definitely a scaling problem once more bears are introduced. Odds of survival decrease exponentially with more bears so ymmv.

Glad you are alrite JP..

When will mountain bikers finally be aware of Bear Danger.

It's simply too dangerous.. Evolution of carnivores clearly favors pack mentality.. That is to say inevitably Bears will form cohorts of their own and Hunt mountain bikers using pincer attacks, much like wolves, and dolphins.

Being cognizant of such immense risk is critical to survival.

The eventual Bear Cohort could spell doom for the mountain biking industry if the issue is not addressed in its infancy..

[xtrafrood]

Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.

What I would be more afraid of is deer.  The sturgeons of the the forest.  Vicious beasts indeed.

[tp4tissue]

Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.

What I would be more afraid of is deer.  The sturgeons of the the forest.  Vicious beasts indeed.

Yet another iceburg in the sea of rotary exercise.

Deers are basically more nimble cows.  Their racing frame also makes their trajectory unpredictable and therefore more dangerous.

A charging bull is large, noisy, and easy to see. Deers are like NINJAS. They are typically endowed with woody camoflauge. Even during high speed maneuvers, their footsteps only produce a dull thud, sound typically unnoticeable in small wind. Bike bearings are louder..

Glad you've brought light to this escalating hazard of the forest.

[JP]

Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.

What I would be more afraid of is deer.  The sturgeons of the the forest.  Vicious beasts indeed.

That is no joke! I've had numerous deer fly out at me on a wooded trail I ride.

[billnye]

Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...

[tp4tissue]

Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...

Show Image

Show Image

What are some of billnye's planned Anti-Bear/ Anti-Deer countermeasures ??

[billnye]

Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...

Show Image

Show Image

What are some of billnye's planned Anti-Bear/ Anti-Deer countermeasures ??

I normally just scream at the top of my lungs for the duration of my ride and so far I haven't had any issues.

[tp4tissue]

I normally just scream at the top of my lungs for the duration of my ride and so far I haven't had any issues.

Good reference design here..

[xtrafrood]

Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.

What I would be more afraid of is deer.  The sturgeons of the the forest.  Vicious beasts indeed.

That is no joke! I've had numerous deer fly out at me on a wooded trail I ride.

Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.

[JP]

Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.

Same including a couple family members hit by deer while stopped at a stop sign 

[xtrafrood]

Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.

Same including a couple family members hit by deer while stopped at a stop sign 

Smart deer--get em while they're at a red light and zoned out to the mysteries of the universe. 

One actually jumped over my older brother while he was riding his motorcycle.  Thankfully he had a low profile sport bike.

[suicidal_orange]

One day at work and this thread has been derailed slightly ) No bears to worry about here thankfully and our deer have always seemed very placid when rarely spotted while walking in the woods.  Maybe they just don't like spinny noises?!

Made it to work on my '8 speed' but there's a rubbing noise which seems to be coming from the rear derailure, which has worked perfectly throughout.  Maybe it's bent and that's the real cause of the problems.  Something to look into tomorrow, not like I had anything better to do on my first Saturday off this month...

[FrostyToast]

Went for a ride today since it was only -2C outside. Can't wait for better weather to roll around because I haven't ridden nearly enough on this thing.

Also, tubeless is the master race.

EDIT: I was loving switchnollie's bike until I saw that he has flats on there. That bike deserves clipless!

[JP]

Went for a ride today since it was only -2C outside. Can't wait for better weather to roll around because I haven't ridden nearly enough on this thing.

Also, tubeless is the master race.

EDIT: I was loving switchnollie's bike until I saw that he has flats on there. That bike deserves clipless!

Abus bros! I ditched the top water bottle cage and front basket in favor of a messenger style bag. Also I normally use Shimano SPD pedals.

Edit: I'm not sold on tubeless. Seems like too much of a hassle but would if I was going off road.

[suicidal_orange]

So while looking at gear-related stuff I inevitably found myself looking at upgrades.  Damn, brifters are pricy!  Then I see bar end shifters.

Cheap.  Friction mode to bypass messing about with indexing.  Single movement to make multiple shifts in either direction.  Compatible across different sized cassettes so easy to upgrade.  Used by people who live in their drops (I don't like riding hoods)  What's not to love?

Looking at brifters how does your setup work Frosty?  I guess either you don't brake in your drops or you must have really long fingers, at that angle I can't see how the geometry is setup.  JPs bars look weird in a good way - the ends of those bars look similar to drops angle wise, but with more reach.  Interesting....

Edit:  Further reading suggests friction mode is not fun past a 9 speed cassette.  Still tempted.

[JP]

So while looking at gear-related stuff I inevitably found myself looking at upgrades.  Damn, brifters are pricy!  Then I see bar end shifters.

Cheap.  Friction mode to bypass messing about with indexing.  Single movement to make multiple shifts in either direction.  Compatible across different sized cassettes so easy to upgrade.  Used by people who live in their drops (I don't like riding hoods)  What's not to love?

Looking at brifters how does your setup work Frosty?  I guess either you don't brake in your drops or you must have really long fingers, at that angle I can't see how the geometry is setup.  JPs bars look weird in a good way - the ends of those bars look similar to drops angle wise, but with more reach.  Interesting....

Edit:  Further reading suggests friction mode is not fun past a 9 speed cassette.  Still tempted.

One of my friends has a 9 speed and likes those bar end shifters. I am just the opposite. I hardly use my drops, especially around town. When I got my single speed it had dropped handle bars which I didn't care them since they didn't have hoods although I could have added them. I ended up finding a good deal locally on the bullhorn handle bars and for the way I ride I really like them. I stand up and mash the pedals so this is like having hoods in my case. I'm running a 48x16 and sometimes 48x15 which is a terrible gear ratio for acceleration and hills but standing up I can get more power down and I can haul ass once I get going. The only down side is the braking sucks reaching so far forward. Also since this is an old picture I have since went back to a shorter stem and lowered it quite a bit and also my seat post. Rides so much better once I got my fit dialed in.

[suicidal_orange]

48x16 doesn't sound too bad on the flat (I think I drop to 50x17 to slowly pass dog walkers and accelerate away easily enough) but hills?  You're a braver man than I!  As with so many things it would be great to try bar end shifters before buying, but that's not going to happen.  1x12 with an e-bike approved cassette and bar end shifters for under £500 is really tempting but thankfully(?) I can't find the shifters to be next day shipped today otherwise I'd probably have pulled the trigger already

I'm still playing with fit, so far dropping from a 175 to 165mm cranks has been a revalation - I first cycled after years of not and had achy legs but after a 3 month break due to injury I've jumped back on the short cranks and felt nothing, the cranks were supposed to force me into lower gears and that worked.  At the same time I swapped to narrower bars (44-40cm) and a longer stem and I think (though after the break it's based on a fuzzy memory) the steering is better too so I've got a 130mm stem to try next as it was 90% off.  Worth the money just for the black bolts which neither of my other stems have as the large red and white logos will look terrible.

Does the tweaking ever end?

[xtrafrood]

I wanted to try bullhorns when I was still biking around town, but I was never ambitious enough to relearn the art of handlebar wrapping.

[suicidal_orange]

I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at.  Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!

[tp4tissue]

I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at.  Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!

In Mortal Combat situations involving bears,  One must consider utilizing a handle bar wrapping material with high enough tensile strength such that it could be removed for utility as a whip or strangling device.

Whip would give you some map control and spacing, whereas when the bear eventually comes @ u, you can quickly side-feint and attack it from behind in strangling mode...

[JP]

I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at.  Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!

In Mortal Combat situations involving bears,  One must consider utilizing a handle bar wrapping material with high enough tensile strength such that it could be removed for utility as a whip or strangling device.

Whip would give you some map control and spacing, whereas when the bear eventually comes @ u, you can quickly side-feint and attack it from behind in strangling mode...

Well with bull horn handlebars I can usually scare them off. They are more afraid of you really so the best strategy is to appear strong.

[xtrafrood]

Perhaps my bicycle terminology is a bit rusty..  If I do get another bike I'll be sure to get the upwards curvy handlebar things.

10+ years of skateboarding left my wrists in a bad state.  Drop bars seem to aggravate whatever hairline fractures I may or may not still have.

Here's the only picture I snapped of my basic townie (2005).

[FrostyToast]

About the shifters:
I cannot imagine having to use friction shifters over sti, or double tap if I was SRAM.
Being able to have accurate shifts with a simple click and having that ability at my fingertips is great. The most common riding position for me is on top of the hoods since braking is important, which means I also have the shifters ready for me at any time. If I'm in the drops for a long stretch of uninterrupted road then I shift up to a gear I feel I can do at least 90 cadence on and do an aero tuck.
The other huge benefit is being able to rapidly switch gears accurately. Either a huge 3 gear swing to shift down, either before a stoplight or a hill, or rapid clicks to shift up on a descent.

EDIT: Also, I forgot to mention that if your shifting is off on friction shifters, you will cause premature wear on your drivetrain.

[suicidal_orange]

Thanks for your thoughts Frosty.  I don't ride the hoods as no matter what I try they aren't comfortable because all my weight seems to be on the webby bit between thumb and fingers, I'm still tweaking so maybe one day they will work.  Probably against all guidance I cruise in the drops with straight arms and can bend them to go more aero, though as I've been avoiding the 4AM commute there's a high risk of dog walkers so I don't.  No idea what cadence but higher than it used to be, which is apparently good...

As to rapid shifting that's where bar ends look better but maybe that's because I'm coming from low end STIs with only one up and two down per press?  Tiny but steep 'hills' (bridges over the canal) are a regular thing on my commute so unless I'm powering along I've been dropping 50x15T to 34x15T and back which worked nicely (no cross chaining noise) until it started throwing the chain.  If I go for a 1x1? setup I'd be looking for 3 or 4 gears up/down for the same effect and having tried it on 1x8 it's workable but not ideal.

More drivetrain wear doesn't sound good and friction over 8 is not recommended, so given up on that idea.

[FrostyToast]

Higher cadence is good.
When you pedal, your knees take on a certain percent of the force of pedaling and your muscles take the rest. Your knees are going to be the weakest point so if you spin faster, then you reduce the strain on your knees and place that load on your muscles.

Imagine standing up and having your legs locked with your knees back, then try standing with your legs bent. It's going to feel really easy to stand with your legs locked versus with your legs bent because you're placing your weight on your skeletal structure rather than having your muscles lift you up. This is good and all, but once you're on a bike, your baseline power will put your legs under a load equal to 2-4 times your weight, and during a sprint your legs output 6-10 times your body weight. This amount of force is no joke and it's advised to be at 80 cadence while cruising, 90 cadence at threshold, and 100+ during a sprint.

[xtrafrood]

I rarely shifted gears with my late townie.  I quickly learned that it was more efficient for me to power through a small hill then expend energy fighting with friction shifters.

Hence why I eventually shortened the chain to a fixed low gear and stripped off the excess parts that I never used (Gainesville hills are relatively flat anyway).

That and never finding a way to convert the OE three piece crank to something more modern.  Having to change out grindy bearings every so often wasn't fun.

(lighting is pretty bad in here but it kinda suits the spare parts/tools shown)

[suicidal_orange]

After a relatively trouble free week (had to double click front to change) today I have slipping on the big front/small rear gear.  This is on the 'old' cassette which has less miles on than the 'new' one.  Had a look and all the teeth are shiny on the outer edge so something's not right.  Wondering why I bought $10 of reach adjusters rather than a new rear gear setup on Wednesday, especially as the 'shop' is mainly online so not open at weekends.

[suicidal_orange]

Got some bar end shifters designed for a 2/3x10 Shimano MTB setup, will be fitting them tomorrow in friction mode on an 8 speed rear and 11 speed road front derailleur with 9 speed chain on 8 speed cranks.  I can't see any possible problems with this setup given my expertise getting the original matched setup to work, none at all

[katushkin]

Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...

Show Image

Show Image

Duuuuuude. I'm a big fan.

My two friends with road bikes took me on a 20 mile road ride in 45mph gusts last weekend. Was not a lot of fun.

[Sniping]

lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.

close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages

[suicidal_orange]

That's one crazy bike with stealth wheels and a colourful frame but somehow it works   Looks like you have really long fingers!

Realised I haven't taken a picture of my commuter yet, should have done that before putting on a non-matching stem and adding one bar end shifter under scruffy re-used tape, or better yet before scuffing both STIs...

[yuktsi]

lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.

close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages

(Attachment Link)

That's a nice touch with the seatpost. How much does it weigh? 

[JP]

I like the clean look of those wheels. I am guessing this build is about 7.1 kg.