Duck Black Bird Kustom Group Buy

[Jeu]

Yeah my problem is even flip isn't recognizing the pcb. It did one time and then never again. Gonna try to reinstall drivers and try again later.


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[Jeu]

Finally got it to work and all soldered in, keys were working and mapped, then soldered the sips and put it all together...and only the 5th LED (after the 4 layer indicators) comes on and the keyboard is not recognized and will not enter DFU mode either....anyone got a clue?

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Someone posted in Octagon V2  thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in hole

[Jeu]

Someone posted in Octagon V2  thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in hole

I used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only


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[Mr_BeastQuake]

Someone posted in Octagon V2  thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in hole

I used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya, I figured that would most likely be the case. Just wanted to double check since today is solder day and finding out later would be a pain. Elton getting you a new USB connector for the pcb or do you mean new USB cord?

[Dreamre]

Someone posted in Octagon V2  thread of problems with Zeal s tabs and a Duck PCB. Has anyone used Zeal stabs for their Blackbird yet? Specifically a location where a trace passes around a screw in hole

I used zeal stabs in mine and all the keys work in key tester and word. Just waiting on a new USB to fix all these crazy issues I was having above! Maybe the octagon pcb has different traces that was a problem for them only


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya, I figured that would most likely be the case. Just wanted to double check since today is solder day and finding out later would be a pain. Elton getting you a new USB connector for the pcb or do you mean new USB cord?

I think to be safe, just put some tape/vinyl before you screw in the stabs regardless.

[Jeu]

new usb cord.  this old one I had worked when i held the board perpendicular to the desk and rotated it into certain positions. or flexed the cord a certain way. Old and crappy.  Hoping it isn't the usb controller of the pcb....

[merlin64]

Shameless Self Promotion

Hey guys! I am currently running a GB for weights for this board! Come check it out!

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86707.0

Please submit your replies to this post in the above mentioned thread =).

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Ok, everything programmed, yet one question remains. How the hell do I take the in switch LED's off pulse?

Also, can't seem to program a tilde and forward apostrophe (?) for a split backspace. On the selection portion it shows just an apostrophe but I get no output on the keyboard when i press that key.

[kawasaki161]

Ok, everything programmed, yet one question remains. How the hell do I take the in switch LED's off pulse?

Also, can't seem to program a tilde and forward apostrophe (?) for a split backspace. On the selection portion it shows just an apostrophe but I get no output on the keyboard when i press that key.

The LED modes are set through the LED control binds. LED Arrow cycles through the LED modes for the arrow keys, LED modi for the Modifiers, etc. while going through these modes you will see that the brightness will change in other regions, this is normal. After you found the mode you want for every region you press the LED Ctrl key, then you press LED Arrow, then LED Modi, then LED Alph and then LED Pad. Now all LED's should be on and you will be able to set the brightness with LED Up and LED Down, I'd suggest you go all the way down first, because that sets the different regions to the same start value. After you found your perfect brightness press LED Ctrl again and you are done.

No idea on the tilde thingy, my keymap looks like this (pic under this line) and it works for me.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Ok, everything programmed, yet one question remains. How the hell do I take the in switch LED's off pulse?

Also, can't seem to program a tilde and forward apostrophe (?) for a split backspace. On the selection portion it shows just an apostrophe but I get no output on the keyboard when i press that key.

The LED modes are set through the LED control binds. LED Arrow cycles through the LED modes for the arrow keys, LED modi for the Modifiers, etc. while going through these modes you will see that the brightness will change in other regions, this is normal. After you found the mode you want for every region you press the LED Ctrl key, then you press LED Arrow, then LED Modi, then LED Alph and then LED Pad. Now all LED's should be on and you will be able to set the brightness with LED Up and LED Down, I'd suggest you go all the way down first, because that sets the different regions to the same start value. After you found your perfect brightness press LED Ctrl again and you are done.

No idea on the tilde thingy, my keymap looks like this (pic under this line) and it works for me.

Show Image

Thanks. It looks so simple .

Gonna have to check solder job on the tilde unfortunately.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Has anyone noticed an occurrence where if you have LED's installed, they will fade in intensity if you depress more than one key or multiple keys quickly and then will flicker on and off? I had 2x3x4mm UV LED's in and I noticed it slightly in one LED spot but then I switched to 1.8mm white LED's and it is pronounced in the entire board now. Any input or advice is bueno.


Edit: Well, just played around with the LED's for awhile, changed modes back and forth and now they stop slowly fading. I'm an idiot, pay no attention to me. It was an LED mode that for some reason I didn't notice with the UV LED's.

[Jeu]

Just to be sure, there is no way to reduce brightness on the blackbird right? just on or off and the various modes?

[kawasaki161]

Just to be sure, there is no way to reduce brightness on the blackbird right? just on or off and the various modes?

I explained how to do it a few posts up.

[Jeu]

ahh ok ill try a little more, it wasn't working for me but maybe I wasn't at the correct starting point.  Thanks

EDIT: You are spot on Kawasaki thanks.

[kawasaki161]

Totally forgot about this, does anyone know if it is possible to set this PCB to NKRO? I'm almost certain that it did support it, but when I checked in switchhitter it was definitely 6kro

[CMYK]

I bought and built a Blackbird, and I had some questions for the people with more experience with keyboards.  What is the 8th led on the top left corner for?  As far as I can tell the order of the LED are Num lock, Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, Layer1, Layer 2, Layer 3, Layer 4, and ?.  I used sip sockets, but I can't seem to get it to light up.  I accidentally hit with my soldering iron, and it lit up, but I'm not sure why.  How many leds are supposed to light up when you push the fn button?  What is the difference between MFN, and FN1 when programming the board?

[Jeu]

I bought and built a Blackbird, and I had some questions for the people with more experience with keyboards?  What is the 8th led on the top left corner for?  As far as I can tell the order of the LED are Num lock, Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, Layer1, Layer 2, Layer 3, Layer 4, and ?.  I used sip sockets, but I can't seem to get it to light up.  I accidentally hit with my soldering iron, and it lit up, but I'm not sure why.  How many leds are supposed to light up when you push the fn button?  What is the difference between MFN, and FN1 when programming the board?

This was my first so not a whole lot more experience The 8th LED is a firmware indicator light, basically it just lights up during programming steps i.e. LED configurations and when the board starts up.  When I hit Fn from layer 1 the LEDs for layer 2-4 all light up.   MFN seems to cycle through the Fn layers consecutively with each press of it until you hit another key.  I THINK it's like master Fn.  Fn1 is the function layer corresponding to Fn layer 1 on the O2D layout.  As for the LEDs and sips I don't know.  Does it light up at all when you plug in the usb or when trying to change the LED modes?

[CMYK]

Thanks for the info.  I updated my layout, and changed MFN to FN1.  The LEDs for Layer 2-4 light up the same as you.  My 8th LED does light up, and turn off after I plug it in.  I still haven't figured out how to change LED modes, but it looks like everything is working.  I felt like I did a poor job soldering, but everything seems to work.  Are Duck pcb's fragile?  I was soldering at 650f, and lifted half a pad without intending to.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Thanks for the info.  I updated my layout, and changed MFN to FN1.  The LEDs for Layer 2-4 light up the same as you.  My 8th LED does light up, and turn off after I plug it in.  I still haven't figured out how to change LED modes, but it looks like everything is working.  I felt like I did a poor job soldering, but everything seems to work.  Are Duck pcb's fragile?  I was soldering at 650f, and lifted half a pad without intending to.

Did you read the LED walk through from kawasaki? I press Fn 4 times to get into the layer where I can change LED modes. When I press Esc while in this layer, the last LED lights up. I'm not an expert nor do I regularly use function layers but this is my experience. The LED info is just a few posts up.

[CMYK]

I was aware of it.  I just haven't run through it yet.  I read this entire thread, but getting O2D to work, and organizing my first layout wore me out.

[Shados]

I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.

As seemingly excessive as that plate work you had done is, I must admit it gives the backlight some really great glow. It looks wonderful.

[CMYK]

I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.

That is some fantastic work.  I love the back lighting, and how the texture, and color of the keycaps match the casework.  I should have configured my bottom row to be that way.

[Jeu]

I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.

Jchan teased a Electric set in his Pyro IC thread sometime a few sets down the line...would be great.  Beautiful bird.

[poolside]

I'll get around to posting a full build log and better pictures later, but thought I'd share this for now. Took me so long to build because I had the switch plate polished to a mirror finish and electroplated in gold, which took a while (the plating company has a long lead time for small jobs like this). Caps are JTK Sophomore orange on black; someone needs to make a good gold/yellow-on-black set I can use.

Looking good on that wooden desk!

[zacheadams]

Man, nice photos @ everyone in here.  At some point I'll try to get better photos of mine.

[Mr_BeastQuake]

Anyone ever encounter an issue where one of the SMD's is either stuck or alternating to the wrong color? I'm guessing this would mean it is shot (thankfully I have another PCB) but still not cool nonetheless. Have definitely verified I have the colors set correctly.

[trexous]

Looking to trade my black viperv2 for a blackbird if possible

[smittysteve]

Hi All,

I've had an odd thing happen to my Blackbird today- spontaneously 90% of the RGB LEDs are no longer working!! I didn't change any settings or do anything at all. Just working at my desk and noticed all of a sudden I'm far less bright (the keyboard that is...). Keyboard is working fine (typing this on it now), switch LEDs are on, controls on function layer are responsive, I just have fewer LEDs working. No freaking clue what to try for troubleshooting. I reflashed the firmware and my keymap with Atmel Flip just for fun to see if that could rescue it, but I'm stumped as to what could have happened.

Thanks for anything you can suggest to try. Anyone seen anything similar with a Duck board in the past?

Edit: pics

[Dreamre]

Try turning off the backlit LEDs for the keys and see if that does anything.

[smittysteve]

Try turning off the backlit LEDs for the keys and see if that does anything.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately nothing different.

I should also add, when I plug in the board, I see all the RGB LEDs do a fast flash, so I know they are there and (theoretically) operational...

[gaiden]

Is there a Reset to Default option?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[smittysteve]

Is there a Reset to Default option?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not that I can see. If anyone knows of a way to hard reset, please let me know.

I've opened her up and there is just one lonely RGB LED firing. So sad!

[gaiden]

Maybe one of the solder came loose from the RGB controller?

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[gaiden]

Try retouch those solder joints in the controller section if you are good with the iron bro.

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[Mr_BeastQuake]

Is there a Reset to Default option?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not that I can see. If anyone knows of a way to hard reset, please let me know.

I've opened her up and there is just one lonely RGB LED firing. So sad!

I thought you were talking about the in switch LED in your PM, not faulty SMD LED. Or maybe you're having a problem with both? I had an issue where one rgb led was getting stuck on green. I just kept flashing different hex files and backlighting colors then running through the lighting modes and eventually it got unstuck. Haven't had a problem since. If they are completely off, I'd check soldering.

Good luck!

[smittysteve]

Is there a Reset to Default option?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not that I can see. If anyone knows of a way to hard reset, please let me know.

I've opened her up and there is just one lonely RGB LED firing. So sad!

I thought you were talking about the in switch LED in your PM, not faulty SMD LED. Or maybe you're having a problem with both? I had an issue where one rgb led was getting stuck on green. I just kept flashing different hex files and backlighting colors then running through the lighting modes and eventually it got unstuck. Haven't had a problem since. If they are completely off, I'd check soldering.

Good luck!

Thanks man. Actually problems with both today- been a rough Blackbird day!!

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Thanks to all for the suggestions!

[kawasaki161]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

[smittysteve]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!

Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! 

[smittysteve]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!

Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! 

My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?

Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!

[gaiden]

Maybe it's the WS2812B SMD LED can anyone confirm?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[KetchyKech]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!

Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! 

My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?

Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!

Maybe it's the WS2812B SMD LED can anyone confirm?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thats the one I believe, I have the same issue on my LZ Iron ~ though I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to  (only have exp with through-hole soldering) -- if anyone can link a tutorial, that'd be cool!

goodluck w/ replacing the faulty LED, hope that works out for you.

[gaiden]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!

Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! 

My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?

Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!

Thats the one I believe, I have the same issue on my LZ Iron ~ though I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to  (only have exp with through-hole soldering) -- if anyone can link a tutorial, that'd be cool!

goodluck w/ replacing the faulty LED, hope that works out for you.

These LEDs are a bit different to work with than through hole LEDs. These are very sensitive to heat so avoid making contact with the iron for extended periods. Just make sure you buy extras as they are quite affordable. Here is how I did it:

Assuming you already desoldered the broken LED and now about to place the new LED.

1. Add some solder to one of the 4 pads.

2. Pick up a LED with a pair tweezers.

3. Heat up the solder (from step 1).

4. Place the LED onto the pad and move it around to make sure it rest flat on the PCB and also make sure you have proper access to the other 3 pads for soldering. (This should be done quickly to avoid damaging the pad with excessive heat) Quickly remove the soldering iron and now the LED is positioned and held in place.

5. Now just solder the other 3 pads and you should be good.

** Please avoid making having the iron making too much contact to the LED because that will easily kill it..**

**Buy extras**

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[KetchyKech]

RGBs are completely off other than LED1. Looking at the soldering, nothing seems amiss... but I'll keep investigating!

Well, then the chances are good (or bad, depends on your interpretation) that only one LED is broken. If the signal is lost at one point (which can happen with dead LEDs) all LEDs chained in afterwards won't work. You could try soldering in a new LED, maybe you can also work out a jumper wire instead, but I'm not sure if it works.

Also, this is how you reset your user settings (LED modes, etc.)

3. Basic Initialization Setting (EEPROM ALL CLEAR)

　　Change the setting status of each function, LED effect, macro, key lock, hot key, etc. to the initial setting.

　　　　Static hardware macros ( SM01 to SM20 ) and key mappings set by the mapping program are not changed.

　　3-1.  Press C / M key to enter control mode

　　3-2. E ,  A ,  C ,  ENTER  , type

　　3-3. Keyboard restarts automatically after initialization process

The quote is from the original documentation (DIRECT!!! dl:  http://puu.sh/vjlL8/b3d849a69e.html) It's in Korean, but Google translate works suprisingly well with this document, most of it is understandable, but sometimes it tries translating stuff it shouldn't translate. If something (mainly happens with keycombos) seems really off look at the original, it's often something that wasn't written in Korean to begin with.

Thanks very much for the assistance, kawasaki, I appreciate it!

Looks like RGB LED2 is the likely culprit. When plugging in, I mentioned that all the RGBs give a quick flash, but LED2 doesn't even do that. Hoping changing that out does the trick... I'll update when successfully fixed! 

My local electronics shop was a no-go. Anyone know a part number or better yet source for these RGB LEDs?

Thanks very much- I appreciate the help!

Thats the one I believe, I have the same issue on my LZ Iron ~ though I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to  (only have exp with through-hole soldering) -- if anyone can link a tutorial, that'd be cool!

goodluck w/ replacing the faulty LED, hope that works out for you.

These LEDs are a bit different to work with than through hole LEDs. These are very sensitive to heat so avoid making contact with the iron for extended periods. Just make sure you buy extras as they are quite affordable. Here is how I did it:

Assuming you already desoldered the broken LED and now about to place the new LED.

1. Add some solder to one of the 4 pads.

2. Pick up a LED with a pair tweezers.

3. Heat up the solder (from step 1).

4. Place the LED onto the pad and move it around to make sure it rest flat on the PCB and also make sure you have proper access to the other 3 pads for soldering. (This should be done quickly to avoid damaging the pad with excessive heat) Quickly remove the soldering iron and now the LED is positioned and held in place.

5. Now just solder the other 3 pads and you should be good.

** Please avoid making having the iron making too much contact to the LED because that will easily kill it..**

**Buy extras**

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

ahh makes sense, I def killed one of them trying to desolder it--will try with your method! thanks!

[PerniciousPony]

Figured I'd share a pic of my boards.  Currently in the process of rebuilding both with vint blacks, so they're temporarily out of commission.

[whizzard]

I finally sat down to start this board and I realized that I lost all the hardware

I am having trouble figuring out exactly what I lost,  this board doesn't seem to piece together quite like some others have.  How many screws and screw types does this board take?  Right now I am only seeing the 4 screw holes on the bottom corners of the base.

Any help or ideas on how to replace would be appreciated

[kawasaki161]

I think all of them are M3 and I know that 4-6mm long ones work perfectly for holding in the plate, you'll need 8 of those.
Other than that I still have these pictures:

You can see the longer ones, you'll need 4 of those

And here you see that there are 2 types of countersunk screws, you'll need 2 short and two long ones.

I don't know the exact length off the top of my head, so I'll get those to you as soon as I find the time to measure them (unless someone else is faster than me, I wouldn't mind that, haha).

[whizzard]

Thank you very much for the info!

[romevi]

Thank you very much for the info!

You're back!