[SHIPPED] Nexus Alps slider, Nexus Top Housing

[xondat]

Update:
So currently at:
Sliders - 13,955
Housings - 9,600
Stab sets - 156

Getting closer slowly, but still not close enough. Please keep sharing this so those that missed it the first time, can join and help make MOQ.

Orders close on 4/13 at midnight central time and payment is due on receipt of the invoice.

Might want to update the OP with new numbers

Hope you're able to make MOQ this time.

[BlindAssassin111]

Update:
We are getting closer to the order deadline, 4/13 at midnight central time.

Currently we are still 305 housings from being able to fulfil the project. I can't personally invest in those housings as I am already buying quite a bit for myself and that would be a bad decision on my part.

Please spread the word, every little bit helps, and we are so close, so showing this to the right person could save the project, but I can't be everywhere at once looking for ways to advertise without being a **** about it.

[tanvir175]

Update:
We are getting closer to the order deadline, 4/13 at midnight central time.

Currently we are still 305 housings from being able to fulfil the project. I can't personally invest in those housings as I am already buying quite a bit for myself and that would be a bad decision on my part.

Please spread the word, every little bit helps, and we are so close, so showing this to the right person could save the project, but I can't be everywhere at once looking for ways to advertise without being a **** about it.

Made a post on /r/mechanicalkeyboards. Hopefully, it will reach a few people who haven't seen this yet.

[stu-rem]

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

I would recommend some type of dry lube to get the best fe"el possible from them, otherwise they will feel fine, just not nearly as smooth.

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

Require? No.

Should you? Up to you but keep in mind that these are still Alps switches that turn awful with dust buildup so use dry lube.

Any specific dry lube recommendations, from your or other's experience with ALPS-style switches?

(I'm aware of Tribosys 3204 and Krytox 106, though they're both grease, not dry -- so I'm wondering about dust sticking to it. Also, may be used with Mattias Quiet Clicky / tactile switches, if that makes any difference.)

[BlindAssassin111]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

[pixelpusher]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

Surely that will happen. If not, send me a PM.

[evangs]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

how many more do you need? edit: my reading comprehension is terrible today. count me in for 70

[Blaise170]

I should probably actually get housings too. I'll let you know tomorrow whether I'll be in for housings or not.

[tanvir175]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

Awesome!

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

I would recommend some type of dry lube to get the best fe"el possible from them, otherwise they will feel fine, just not nearly as smooth.

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

Require? No.

Should you? Up to you but keep in mind that these are still Alps switches that turn awful with dust buildup so use dry lube.

Any specific dry lube recommendations, from your or other's experience with ALPS-style switches?

(I'm aware of Tribosys 3204 and Krytox 106, though they're both grease, not dry -- so I'm wondering about dust sticking to it. Also, may be used with Mattias Quiet Clicky / tactile switches, if that makes any difference.)

I did my first switch lube two days ago, so I'll start by saying I'm not the most experienced luber. Lubed some Alps Orange with RO59. It's not a dry lube but I've been told that letting it dry and cure overnight is safe. I lubed the sides of the stems and the top housing rails, placed them all neatly on a napkin and covered them with another napkin, and then let them dry overnight. I finished the build yesterday and these are some smoooooooth switches. Can't say how much smoother because I'm not very experienced with Alps, although, I do have an Orange Alps AEK I can compare with later.

As for dry lube, recently I was recommended teflon lube. One person specified Teflon finish line bike lube.

I should probably actually get housings too. I'll let you know tomorrow whether I'll be in for housings or not.

Do it Excellent way to rejuvenate your worn out switches!

[a_ak57]

I'd like to help out with the housings but then I'd feel compelled to get orange alps to go with them, and that would be way more expensive than my current plan of just modding Matias QCs.

[tanvir175]

I'd like to help out with the housings but then I'd feel compelled to get orange alps to go with them, and that would be way more expensive than my current plan of just modding Matias QCs.

You can get them for the future

Or you can go Salmon Alps. I kinda like them better because they're heavier.

[BlindAssassin111]

So...once Evan pays, we will have hit MOQ.

Thank you all for helping bring this back from the low of near failure back to being a reality again.

[evangs]

So...once Evan pays, we will have hit MOQ.

Thank you all for helping bring this back from the low of near failure back to being a reality again.

paid! lets make some stems

[tanvir175]

Nice! Can't wait for these to come.

Pink Pearl w/brass plate + Brown Alps + GMK Laser. The dream will come true!

[BlindAssassin111]

Went ahead and closed orders as it is easier to deal with 10k exactly than an odd quantity for orders and I was only opening orders to allow us to achieve MOQ again. Talking to the company to get the order process started and hopefully get the ball rolling before the weekend.

[Blaise170]

Went ahead and closed orders as it is easier to deal with 10k exactly than an odd quantity for orders and I was only opening orders to allow us to achieve MOQ again. Talking to the company to get the order process started and hopefully get the ball rolling before the weekend.

Well in that case, how noticeable is the rubbing from the housing? I didn't see the part about it in the OP until just today.

[BlindAssassin111]

Went ahead and closed orders as it is easier to deal with 10k exactly than an odd quantity for orders and I was only opening orders to allow us to achieve MOQ again. Talking to the company to get the order process started and hopefully get the ball rolling before the weekend.

Well in that case, how noticeable is the rubbing from the housing? I didn't see the part about it in the OP until just today.

Rubbing? As in the cap stem to the top housing? If so, the cap stem outer diameter is almost the exact size as the opening in the top housings, so if the switch isn't pressed down perfectly straight and centered, it won't move at all.

You are able to still order, as you have already technically placed an order, I was just closing off new orders. If someone is wanting to order slightly less to allow you to order part of their quantity that is an option. Tanvir175, if you want to save a bit, you can give some of yours to Blaise170. I want to try and keep it around 10k to make it easier.

[tanvir175]

Went ahead and closed orders as it is easier to deal with 10k exactly than an odd quantity for orders and I was only opening orders to allow us to achieve MOQ again. Talking to the company to get the order process started and hopefully get the ball rolling before the weekend.

Well in that case, how noticeable is the rubbing from the housing? I didn't see the part about it in the OP until just today.

Rubbing? As in the cap stem to the top housing? If so, the cap stem outer diameter is almost the exact size as the opening in the top housings, so if the switch isn't pressed down perfectly straight and centered, it won't move at all.

You are able to still order, as you have already technically placed an order, I was just closing off new orders. If someone is wanting to order slightly less to allow you to order part of their quantity that is an option. Tanvir175, if you want to save a bit, you can give some of yours to Blaise170. I want to try and keep it around 10k to make it easier.

Sounds good with me. I only need ~200.

If I'm not mistaken, 70 was the minimum order quantity so Blaise170 can take 70 of mine if he wants to.

[waldorf120]

Went ahead and closed orders as it is easier to deal with 10k exactly than an odd quantity for orders and I was only opening orders to allow us to achieve MOQ again. Talking to the company to get the order process started and hopefully get the ball rolling before the weekend.

[Rob27shred]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

Awesome!

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

I would recommend some type of dry lube to get the best fe"el possible from them, otherwise they will feel fine, just not nearly as smooth.

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

Require? No.

Should you? Up to you but keep in mind that these are still Alps switches that turn awful with dust buildup so use dry lube.

Any specific dry lube recommendations, from your or other's experience with ALPS-style switches?

(I'm aware of Tribosys 3204 and Krytox 106, though they're both grease, not dry -- so I'm wondering about dust sticking to it. Also, may be used with Mattias Quiet Clicky / tactile switches, if that makes any difference.)

I did my first switch lube two days ago, so I'll start by saying I'm not the most experienced luber. Lubed some Alps Orange with RO59. It's not a dry lube but I've been told that letting it dry and cure overnight is safe. I lubed the sides of the stems and the top housing rails, placed them all neatly on a napkin and covered them with another napkin, and then let them dry overnight. I finished the build yesterday and these are some smoooooooth switches. Can't say how much smoother because I'm not very experienced with Alps, although, I do have an Orange Alps AEK I can compare with later.

As for dry lube, recently I was recommended teflon lube. One person specified Teflon finish line bike lube.

I should probably actually get housings too. I'll let you know tomorrow whether I'll be in for housings or not.

Do it Excellent way to rejuvenate your worn out switches!

I would say be careful with a dry lube that is Teflon based. I tried using PB blaster Dry Lube with Teflon on some Cherry brown stems way back & it just turned into a huge mess. The lube dried to white powder that got everywhere on the inside of the switch after being installed & pressed a few times. After putting a few back together & seeing how much of a mess it was making. I just ended up washing them off & ordering Krytox. Never tried a dry lube again, although the SuperLube RO59 does interest me.

[Rob27shred]

So...once Evan pays, we will have hit MOQ.

Thank you all for helping bring this back from the low of near failure back to being a reality again.

Glad to hear it's happening! I still feel bad about not contacting you on time to cancel my order, but since you extended it & I was able to pay with that extra time it looks like it worked out for the best for everybody. I really didn't want to cancel my order & even though mine wasn't a big one it seemed like every little bit helped here! I hope all goes smooth for you with this from here on out BlindAssassin!

[jrfhoutx]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

Awesome!

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

I would recommend some type of dry lube to get the best fe"el possible from them, otherwise they will feel fine, just not nearly as smooth.

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

Require? No.

Should you? Up to you but keep in mind that these are still Alps switches that turn awful with dust buildup so use dry lube.

Any specific dry lube recommendations, from your or other's experience with ALPS-style switches?

(I'm aware of Tribosys 3204 and Krytox 106, though they're both grease, not dry -- so I'm wondering about dust sticking to it. Also, may be used with Mattias Quiet Clicky / tactile switches, if that makes any difference.)

I did my first switch lube two days ago, so I'll start by saying I'm not the most experienced luber. Lubed some Alps Orange with RO59. It's not a dry lube but I've been told that letting it dry and cure overnight is safe. I lubed the sides of the stems and the top housing rails, placed them all neatly on a napkin and covered them with another napkin, and then let them dry overnight. I finished the build yesterday and these are some smoooooooth switches. Can't say how much smoother because I'm not very experienced with Alps, although, I do have an Orange Alps AEK I can compare with later.

As for dry lube, recently I was recommended teflon lube. One person specified Teflon finish line bike lube.

I should probably actually get housings too. I'll let you know tomorrow whether I'll be in for housings or not.

Do it Excellent way to rejuvenate your worn out switches!

I would say be careful with a dry lube that is Teflon based. I tried using PB blaster Dry Lube with Teflon on some Cherry brown stems way back & it just turned into a huge mess. The lube dried to white powder that got everywhere on the inside of the switch after being installed & pressed a few times. After putting a few back together & seeing how much of a mess it was making. I just ended up washing them off & ordering Krytox. Never tried a dry lube again, although the SuperLube RO59 does interest me.

That dry teflon Finish Line bike lube is typically the recommended lube for Alps sliders as it's supposed to be closest to the original lubricant used in Alps.

[Rob27shred]

Update:
We are currently at:
sliders - 14,430
housings - 9,860
stab sets - 163

We are on the verge of hitting MOQ, I have 1 order pending payment for 70 housings so we would only be 70 away if that is paid. Hopefully we can get that last little bit by tomorrow night.

Awesome!

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

I would recommend some type of dry lube to get the best fe"el possible from them, otherwise they will feel fine, just not nearly as smooth.

As bummed as I am that the GB ran into trouble I'm glad you opened it up again because I missed this the first time around. Will these sliders require some dry lube prior to installation?

Require? No.

Should you? Up to you but keep in mind that these are still Alps switches that turn awful with dust buildup so use dry lube.

Any specific dry lube recommendations, from your or other's experience with ALPS-style switches?

(I'm aware of Tribosys 3204 and Krytox 106, though they're both grease, not dry -- so I'm wondering about dust sticking to it. Also, may be used with Mattias Quiet Clicky / tactile switches, if that makes any difference.)

I did my first switch lube two days ago, so I'll start by saying I'm not the most experienced luber. Lubed some Alps Orange with RO59. It's not a dry lube but I've been told that letting it dry and cure overnight is safe. I lubed the sides of the stems and the top housing rails, placed them all neatly on a napkin and covered them with another napkin, and then let them dry overnight. I finished the build yesterday and these are some smoooooooth switches. Can't say how much smoother because I'm not very experienced with Alps, although, I do have an Orange Alps AEK I can compare with later.

As for dry lube, recently I was recommended teflon lube. One person specified Teflon finish line bike lube.

I should probably actually get housings too. I'll let you know tomorrow whether I'll be in for housings or not.

Do it Excellent way to rejuvenate your worn out switches!

I would say be careful with a dry lube that is Teflon based. I tried using PB blaster Dry Lube with Teflon on some Cherry brown stems way back & it just turned into a huge mess. The lube dried to white powder that got everywhere on the inside of the switch after being installed & pressed a few times. After putting a few back together & seeing how much of a mess it was making. I just ended up washing them off & ordering Krytox. Never tried a dry lube again, although the SuperLube RO59 does interest me.

That dry teflon Finish Line bike lube is typically the recommended lube for Alps sliders as it's supposed to be closest to the original lubricant used in Alps.

I never tried that lube yet personally & am pretty inexperienced with ALPS being honest about it. I just wanted to throw my experience out there so nobody ruins their much harder to get ALPS switches using that PB Blaster product I had issues with. There obviously must be huge differences between it & the Finish Line product, but as far the description of both goes they both would seem similar if you've never used either of them. In fact I'm pretty sure I got the PB Blaster Dry lube cause I couldn't find the Finish Line bike lube anywhere locally, so I figured a heads up was in order.

BTW this is the product I had issues with, http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381025192281

[Blaise170]

You are able to still order, as you have already technically placed an order, I was just closing off new orders. If someone is wanting to order slightly less to allow you to order part of their quantity that is an option. Tanvir175, if you want to save a bit, you can give some of yours to Blaise170. I want to try and keep it around 10k to make it easier.

Cool I get paid tomorrow so I'll talk to you tomorrow.

[d.caminero]

Very glad to hear this reached MOQ again. I'm looking forward to those sliders and housings.
My built Pearl is waiting for GMK Yuri to go with orange alps and I cannot be more excited.

For those talking about dry-lube, use either superlube or finish line. I used finish line because it was easily available here and the results are awesome. The technique described by tanvir (lube the rails and sides only, let it cure overnight before assembly) is what works better. I wouldn't reccomend lubing the sides of the stem that touch the contact leaf, because it will affect tactility, but to each their own.

What you will have to keep in mind is to be as consistent as possible, because finish line dries fast and when you start to apply it mid-dry it won't feel the same. I had to re-lube lots of switches spending countless hours, so do not fear of using too much, make sure you apply the same quantity and in liquid state, not dry.

Thanks Blindassassin for your work and for bringing this to life, and good job everyone who helped reach MOQ.

[tanvir175]

Very glad to hear this reached MOQ again. I'm looking forward to those sliders and housings.
My built Pearl is waiting for GMK Yuri to go with orange alps and I cannot be more excited.

For those talking about dry-lube, use either superlube or finish line. I used finish line because it was easily available here and the results are awesome. The technique described by tanvir (lube the rails and sides only, let it cure overnight before assembly) is what works better. I wouldn't reccomend lubing the sides of the stem that touch the contact leaf, because it will affect tactility, but to each their own.

What you will have to keep in mind is to be as consistent as possible, because finish line dries fast and when you start to apply it mid-dry it won't feel the same. I had to re-lube lots of switches spending countless hours, so do not fear of using too much, make sure you apply the same quantity and in liquid state, not dry.

Thanks Blindassassin for your work and for bringing this to life, and good job everyone who helped reach MOQ.

Good to know I did it right

Actually, someone on /r/mechmarket sold an unbuilt Pink Pearl for GB price + shipping because their wife didn't want it. I've been beating myself up over not getting it so jumped on that and after a little conversation, the transaction was made. I'm super excited to receive it and plan to use Brown Alps with these Nexus sliders and housings along with GMK Laser Gaijin + Blocknet/Mitowaves + Spacebars.

The Brown Alps I managed to get are in near pristine condition so I'm actually afraid of opening them and lubing them for fear of messing them up.

Is this what you use, btw? https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B00M77CIXQ
Also do you use the spray or squeeze? And how easily is it to remove the lube; do I just ultrasonic clean it or should I do it by hand?

Sorry for all the questions, haha. There's just so much to learn.

[BlindAssassin111]

The Brown Alps I managed to get are in near pristine condition so I'm actually afraid of opening them and lubing them for fear of messing them up.

Don't be afraid to open them, they are better than other alps and the tactile leaf is fairly hard to mess up unless you smash it really hard. I have accidentally compressed the leaf with quite a bit of force and nothing changed, and when you think about it you are bending it with every press, and they don't want it to fail due to fatigue, so it can be pushed quite a bit further than you think before damage.

Wish I had some browns to play with...only have 1 and I love the way it feels.

[tanvir175]

The Brown Alps I managed to get are in near pristine condition so I'm actually afraid of opening them and lubing them for fear of messing them up.

Don't be afraid to open them, they are better than other alps and the tactile leaf is fairly hard to mess up unless you smash it really hard. I have accidentally compressed the leaf with quite a bit of force and nothing changed, and when you think about it you are bending it with every press, and they don't want it to fail due to fatigue, so it can be pushed quite a bit further than you think before damage.

Wish I had some browns to play with...only have 1 and I love the way it feels.

I'm actually afraid of lubing it wrong lol. I almost crushed the leaves of my orange alps while cleaning them by mistake and the few that did get crushed were still perfectly fine. The build quality on these is insane.

[BlindAssassin111]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

[evangs]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

this is exciting news!

[tanvir175]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

[jrfhoutx]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

Awesome! I can't wait for these to show up! So glad this is finally happening!

[stu-rem]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

Awesome! I can't wait for these to show up! So glad this is finally happening!

Congrats on getting it over the line!
Hope the manufacturing & rest of the implementation goes smoothly.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[stoic-lemon]

Never doubted this would get to production! OK it was a bit nerve-wracking for a bit there.

[d.caminero]

Very glad to hear this reached MOQ again. I'm looking forward to those sliders and housings.
My built Pearl is waiting for GMK Yuri to go with orange alps and I cannot be more excited.

For those talking about dry-lube, use either superlube or finish line. I used finish line because it was easily available here and the results are awesome. The technique described by tanvir (lube the rails and sides only, let it cure overnight before assembly) is what works better. I wouldn't reccomend lubing the sides of the stem that touch the contact leaf, because it will affect tactility, but to each their own.

What you will have to keep in mind is to be as consistent as possible, because finish line dries fast and when you start to apply it mid-dry it won't feel the same. I had to re-lube lots of switches spending countless hours, so do not fear of using too much, make sure you apply the same quantity and in liquid state, not dry.

Thanks Blindassassin for your work and for bringing this to life, and good job everyone who helped reach MOQ.

Good to know I did it right

Actually, someone on /r/mechmarket sold an unbuilt Pink Pearl for GB price + shipping because their wife didn't want it. I've been beating myself up over not getting it so jumped on that and after a little conversation, the transaction was made. I'm super excited to receive it and plan to use Brown Alps with these Nexus sliders and housings along with GMK Laser Gaijin + Blocknet/Mitowaves + Spacebars.

The Brown Alps I managed to get are in near pristine condition so I'm actually afraid of opening them and lubing them for fear of messing them up.

Is this what you use, btw? https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B00M77CIXQ
Also do you use the spray or squeeze? And how easily is it to remove the lube; do I just ultrasonic clean it or should I do it by hand?

Sorry for all the questions, haha. There's just so much to learn.

Good job about getting that Pearl. Keep in mind that ALPS switches will not hold on the plate on the split positions. Also, test your caps before soldering because I ran into spacing issues in those positions. It seems I soldered the switches a bit crooked (since they have one side on the plate and the other one "flying" so if you push them hard to solder them they will end up crooked). Also, try the switches on the brass plate before soldering them all, mine are a tad too tactile because I touched the leaves while testing in the PC plate.

Do not worry about lubing them. Just try some and compare them in the same plate. Put some caps on them and try them on different positions. If you lube them "wrong" you only need to wash them, ultrasonic bath will clean it completely, but a regular cleaning will do so as well.

I picked up the squeeze 2 ounce bottle, and I would pour some in a different container (a bottle cap) and apply it with a very thin brush (number 3 I think). Be careful with the fumes, it evaporates quickly and could get you dizzy. Also, try to always apply it while liquid. I think my consistency problems come from that, because I was lazy and didn't want to pour every two or three switches so I poured a lot and applied it semi-cured. That being said, when I checked them after curing to assemble them I couldn't see any difference (and that's why I used them like that instead of re-lubing).

Hit me up with a PM if you ever need help with that

[d.caminero]

Huge Update:

Just paid the invoice for the molds to be made, so we have officially begun the manufacturing process. I will post updates every time I get one or just to keep everyone up to date on what is happening.

Very excited to see this proceed! I'm sure once they arrive people will get more interest in this for future runs

[tanvir175]

Good job about getting that Pearl. Keep in mind that ALPS switches will not hold on the plate on the split positions. Also, test your caps before soldering because I ran into spacing issues in those positions. It seems I soldered the switches a bit crooked (since they have one side on the plate and the other one "flying" so if you push them hard to solder them they will end up crooked). Also, try the switches on the brass plate before soldering them all, mine are a tad too tactile because I touched the leaves while testing in the PC plate.

Do not worry about lubing them. Just try some and compare them in the same plate. Put some caps on them and try them on different positions. If you lube them "wrong" you only need to wash them, ultrasonic bath will clean it completely, but a regular cleaning will do so as well.

I picked up the squeeze 2 ounce bottle, and I would pour some in a different container (a bottle cap) and apply it with a very thin brush (number 3 I think). Be careful with the fumes, it evaporates quickly and could get you dizzy. Also, try to always apply it while liquid. I think my consistency problems come from that, because I was lazy and didn't want to pour every two or three switches so I poured a lot and applied it semi-cured. That being said, when I checked them after curing to assemble them I couldn't see any difference (and that's why I used them like that instead of re-lubing).

Hit me up with a PM if you ever need help with that

Thank you for the advice; especially the advice on the Pearl! It's such a lovely board, I would hate to make a mistake with it.

[Waven]

I'm ready for those sliders and housings

[gbchk]

Same here I just replaced my old Phantom plate with a custom made stainless steel Alps-only plate and this will be the last possible upgrade I can do. I have a nonsensical fantasy that somehow, these sliders/housings will make my white Alps feel more like blues as a byproduct, and then my board will be perfect and I can give up the blue alps obsession for good.

[waldorf120]

Had no idea the Sentraq-65 supported Alps!  Good on them.

[vewy_nice]

The stab inserts work really well, and are much more durable than I thought! So that's some good news, too!

They still hit the plate before the switch completely bottoms out (on an alps DCS spacebar), but I think that also has more to do with SP's stem heights than anything. Also, the center stem doesn't have a "stopper", so I think it's possible to insert the alps stem too far into the switch.

It's WAY better than Costar inserts, though!

And yeah, I have a Sentraq alps build coming up!
White plastic case, teal universal plate, Hasu PCB, and Alpine Winter  
I'm still trying to decide on switches... I already have an orange, blue, and green board... I have a bunch of cream damped, but those are so... common. haha 
I'm thinking pine whites, to keep the frigid theme...

[pixelpusher]

The stab inserts work really well, and are much more durable than I thought! So that's some good news, too!

They still hit the plate before the switch completely bottoms out (on an alps DCS spacebar), but I think that also has more to do with SP's stem heights than anything. Also, the center stem doesn't have a "stopper", so I think it's possible to insert the alps stem too far into the switch.

It's WAY better than Costar inserts, though!

And yeah, I have a Sentraq alps build coming up!
White plastic case, teal universal plate, Hasu PCB, and Alpine Winter  
I'm still trying to decide on switches... I already have an orange, blue, and green board... I have a bunch of cream damped, but those are so... common. haha 
I'm thinking pine whites, to keep the frigid theme...

The stabilizers hitting the plate would make them unacceptable for me.  That’s unfortunate

[vewy_nice]

It could just be my setup, and the fact that I'm using a DCS alps key (MX stab stems, alps center stem), instead of a straight MX key.

I will be trying to do an investigation into what's going on. It's definitely something to do with the key itself, though. The inserts aren't really any thicker than OG alps inserts.

[SJHL]

I'm ready for those sliders and housings

(Attachment Link)

What case is that? I'm somewhat intrigued by the low profile.

[Waven]

It's a low profile case for the Tada68 from KBDFans. The plate is a custom one from lasergist.

Gesendet von meinem G8441 mit Tapatalk

[SJHL]

It's a low profile case for the Tada68 from KBDFans. The plate is a custom one from lasergist.

Gesendet von meinem G8441 mit Tapatalk

Case looks a lot nicer than I thought. Thanks for answering.

[BlindAssassin111]

It could just be my setup, and the fact that I'm using a DCS alps key (MX stab stems, alps center stem), instead of a straight MX key.

I will be trying to do an investigation into what's going on. It's definitely something to do with the key itself, though. The inserts aren't really any thicker than OG alps inserts.

I am curious to know what is causing this as well, I modeled it directly from the OG alps inserts and made sure the height was exact. I know that in alps caps the stab stems sit closer to the plate by ~0.8mm and cherry sit at the same height as the center stem, but I don't know how SP makes those caps. Let me know what you find.

[billm]

I just discovered this GB. You mean I missed it by under 2 weeks? Are you going to do another one? I'd like to order 2x TKL sets. Can you still add them in perhaps?

[BlindAssassin111]

I just discovered this GB. You mean I missed it by under 2 weeks? Are you going to do another one? I'd like to order 2x TKL sets. Can you still add them in perhaps?

Sorry there is no room for more orders atm. There will be future rounds but that will be a couple months out.

[waldorf120]

I just discovered this GB. You mean I missed it by under 2 weeks? Are you going to do another one? I'd like to order 2x TKL sets. Can you still add them in perhaps?

I purchased more sliders & housings than I needed, as I imagine others did.  Feel free to hit me up when the group buy is finished.