Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper

[metalliqaz]

Not supporting it, got it.

Hey if you've got a hacked one then I can whip up support.  I didn't figure I'd run into anyone who could load via ISP!

[metalliqaz]

I really like this firmware, I have it loaded on my phantom and my Ghost Squid that just arrived today and all the testing that I have done so far it works great on the Ghost Squid, the only thing missing is the windows key lock LED that is located on F9 not a big deal considering I don't use it. Thanks for all of your hard work on it.

Wow there's something new.  I did not know the QF XT had 4 LEDs.  Hmmm, now I just have to figure out what the I/O pin is for it.  I'll try looking in Bpiphany's code.

[metalliqaz]

OK, so here's the info I gathered about my Red Scarf II. If you need some photos, just ask.

Code: [Select]

Board Info
==========

- Silkscreen on the bottom side says "Red Scarf II 60" and "Ver.A". Top side "logo" says "RS60".
- This version has no ISO option, only ANSI.
- Right shift can be split, backspace can be split (HHKB-style).
- DFU bootloader (activated on reset, does not erase eeprom on erase).
- AVR ISP pins are broken out to through-hole pads (yay!), order is (starting from the end closer to the middle of the board).

    gnd miso vcc sck mosi reset

- The [TMK files from Kai Ryu](https://github.com/kairyu/tmk_keyboard_custom/blob/master/keyboard/RedScarfII) work with this keyboard. Note that these sources assume a bigger keyboard (numpad + function keys), but 60% is really just a subset of that.

Summary
=======

Rows
----

Row selection is done via a 74HCT138 decoder. Its inputs are routed to PB0, PB1 and PB2. Rows are unselected by taking these high. Rows (0,1,2,3,4 for the 60% version) are selected by writing the binary representation of the row to the three pins; here's a table from the above sources:

    row:     0   1   2   3   4   5   x
    pin: B2  0   1   0   1   0   1   1
         B1  0   0   1   1   0   0   1
         B0  0   0   0   0   1   1   1

Initialisation is just marking the pins as outputs.

Columns
-------

Tied like this:

    col: 0   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  11  12  13
    pin: F4  F1  F0  B3  D0  D1  D4  D5  D6  D7  F7  F6  D2  D3

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    |C0 | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|C12| C13 |(R2,C12 if split Bsp)
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0   | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|C12| C13 |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0    | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|  C13   |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0      | C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|  C12 |C13|
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0  | C1 | C2 |           C9           |C10 |C11 |C12 |C13 |
    -------------------------------------------------------------

Initialised as inputs with pull-ups; triggered when low.

Wiring
------

Column_pin --- switch --- diode anode (+) --- diode cathode (-) --- row pin on 74HCT138

LEDs
----

- CapsLock:  PC7 (on when pin low)
- Logo:      PC6 (this is 4 SMT leds on the bottom side below spacebar + one unpopulated SMT led on the bottom side, edge below Tab) (on when pin high)
- Backlight: PB7 (on when pin high)
- There is no numlock LED.

I would be really happy if you could add support for this board into your firmware! (I'm willing to test!)

Thanks this is good stuff!  I'll give it a shot

[nova779]

]
Wow there's something new.  I did not know the QF XT had 4 LEDs.  Hmmm, now I just have to figure out what the I/O pin is for it.  I'll try looking in Bpiphany's code.

I can look in the morning if you'd like, I wouldn't know how to find it other than following the trace to the led and figuring out what pin matched but I'm sure I'd have a hard time giving you the actual name of the pin unless you had some advice on that.

[metalliqaz]

]
Wow there's something new.  I did not know the QF XT had 4 LEDs.  Hmmm, now I just have to figure out what the I/O pin is for it.  I'll try looking in Bpiphany's code.

I can look in the morning if you'd like, I wouldn't know how to find it other than following the trace to the led and figuring out what pin matched but I'm sure I'd have a hard time giving you the actual name of the pin unless you had some advice on that.

Hmm, I'm not certain that bpiphany added support for that LED to his controller.  He didn't seem to add it to the firmware.  It could be pin D0.  I'll make a test build.  Watch for my PM

[RavenII]

Not supporting it, got it.

Hey if you've got a hacked one then I can whip up support.  I didn't figure I'd run into anyone who could load via ISP!

Your call, man. Personally, I have an ISP programmer, others may not, but it could possibly encourage them to try? I'll leave it up to you whether or not to add support.

[bovineblitz]

Is there a way to have a key be mapped to a greek letter?  I type α and β all the time, would be really nice to integrate that into a key I never use (like right Alt or something).

[flabbergast]

Not supporting it, got it.

Hey if you've got a hacked one then I can whip up support.  I didn't figure I'd run into anyone who could load via ISP!

Your call, man. Personally, I have an ISP programmer, others may not, but it could possibly encourage them to try? I'll leave it up to you whether or not to add support.

I've got an AVR ISP as well - I actually came to mechanical keyboards from AVR world. By the way, you can get an ISP programmer (or something that can be easily used as a programmer) for about $10 or maybe even less on sites like tindie. People around here often have a teensy or an arduino micro - those can be used as programmers as well.

But it may not be easy for beginners - it's definitely not just plug-and-play. The good thing is that it's enough to use it once

I don't have GON's board though, so I won't be of much help here.

[flabbergast]

OK, so here's the info I gathered about my Red Scarf II. If you need some photos, just ask.

Code: [Select]

Board Info
==========

- Silkscreen on the bottom side says "Red Scarf II 60" and "Ver.A". Top side "logo" says "RS60".
- This version has no ISO option, only ANSI.
- Right shift can be split, backspace can be split (HHKB-style).
- DFU bootloader (activated on reset, does not erase eeprom on erase).
- AVR ISP pins are broken out to through-hole pads (yay!), order is (starting from the end closer to the middle of the board).

    gnd miso vcc sck mosi reset

- The [TMK files from Kai Ryu](https://github.com/kairyu/tmk_keyboard_custom/blob/master/keyboard/RedScarfII) work with this keyboard. Note that these sources assume a bigger keyboard (numpad + function keys), but 60% is really just a subset of that.

Summary
=======

Rows
----

Row selection is done via a 74HCT138 decoder. Its inputs are routed to PB0, PB1 and PB2. Rows are unselected by taking these high. Rows (0,1,2,3,4 for the 60% version) are selected by writing the binary representation of the row to the three pins; here's a table from the above sources:

    row:     0   1   2   3   4   5   x
    pin: B2  0   1   0   1   0   1   1
         B1  0   0   1   1   0   0   1
         B0  0   0   0   0   1   1   1

Initialisation is just marking the pins as outputs.

Columns
-------

Tied like this:

    col: 0   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  11  12  13
    pin: F4  F1  F0  B3  D0  D1  D4  D5  D6  D7  F7  F6  D2  D3

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    |C0 | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|C12| C13 |(R2,C12 if split Bsp)
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0   | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|C12| C13 |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0    | C1| C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|  C13   |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0      | C2| C3| C4| C5| C6| C7| C8| C9|C10|C11|  C12 |C13|
    +-----------------------------------------------------------+
    |C0  | C1 | C2 |           C9           |C10 |C11 |C12 |C13 |
    -------------------------------------------------------------

Initialised as inputs with pull-ups; triggered when low.

Wiring
------

Column_pin --- switch --- diode anode (+) --- diode cathode (-) --- row pin on 74HCT138

LEDs
----

- CapsLock:  PC7 (on when pin low)
- Logo:      PC6 (this is 4 SMT leds on the bottom side below spacebar + one unpopulated SMT led on the bottom side, edge below Tab) (on when pin high)
- Backlight: PB7 (on when pin high)
- There is no numlock LED.

I would be really happy if you could add support for this board into your firmware! (I'm willing to test!)

Thanks this is good stuff!  I'll give it a shot

I forgot to record that the resistors for backlight are 470 Ohm. This is quite on the safe side (i.e. even low forward voltage LEDs aren't going to be burned even on full power), but it might factor into PWM calculation so that the board doesn't draw too much power when the backlight is on (e.g. the board would draw cca 300mA just for 3V-LEDs when switched on permanently).

[metalliqaz]

Is there a way to have a key be mapped to a greek letter?  I type α and β all the time, would be really nice to integrate that into a key I never use (like right Alt or something).

Put an Alt code into a macro

[nova779]

Hmm, I'm not certain that bpiphany added support for that LED to his controller.  He didn't seem to add it to the firmware.  It could be pin D0.  I'll make a test build.  Watch for my PM

It works!
(Sorry for image quality)

[metalliqaz]

Nice!

[bovineblitz]

Is there a way to have a key be mapped to a greek letter?  I type α and β all the time, would be really nice to integrate that into a key I never use (like right Alt or something).

Put an Alt code into a macro

Oh nice, I was digging around in the help menus last night and for some reason that didn't occur to me.  Do you know if numlock needs to be enabled for an alt code to work?  I suppose I could always incorporate numlock on and off before and after the code if so.

[RavenII]

I forgot to record that the resistors for backlight are 470 Ohm. This is quite on the safe side (i.e. even low forward voltage LEDs aren't going to be burned even on full power), but it might factor into PWM calculation so that the board doesn't draw too much power when the backlight is on (e.g. the board would draw cca 300mA just for 3V-LEDs when switched on permanently).

Same for the Nerd60 (the 470ohm resistors), though to be honest, I can't stand the flicker of the PWM dimming...I'm wondering if a capacitor in line would help buffer that.

[metalliqaz]

Is there a way to have a key be mapped to a greek letter?  I type α and β all the time, would be really nice to integrate that into a key I never use (like right Alt or something).

Put an Alt code into a macro

Oh nice, I was digging around in the help menus last night and for some reason that didn't occur to me.  Do you know if numlock needs to be enabled for an alt code to work?  I suppose I could always incorporate numlock on and off before and after the code if so.

You've got a programmable keyboard.  Try it!  I would think the numlocks wouldn't be necessary.

[metalliqaz]

I forgot to record that the resistors for backlight are 470 Ohm. This is quite on the safe side (i.e. even low forward voltage LEDs aren't going to be burned even on full power), but it might factor into PWM calculation so that the board doesn't draw too much power when the backlight is on (e.g. the board would draw cca 300mA just for 3V-LEDs when switched on permanently).

Same for the Nerd60 (the 470ohm resistors), though to be honest, I can't stand the flicker of the PWM dimming...I'm wondering if a capacitor in line would help buffer that.

The software makes no accounting for the current, so the resistors make no difference.

The Easy code has to work on all kinds of keyboards, so there is a problem when it comes to PWM.  I can't count on the boards to use the AVR's PWM pins for driving LEDs.  Some do but many don't.  Therefore, I had to implement software PWM.  This is slower than the hardware PWM.  Therefore, at the lowest setting, the LEDs are blinking at about 60 HZ.  As the brightness goes higher, that number quickly grows, so the flickering shouldn't be visible.

A capacitor would help, yes.  I'm not sure what you meant by "in line", but to be of use the cap would be in a parallel circuit to the load, not serial.

[metalliqaz]

By the way, if there is serious flickering going on, that means the software is blowing it's schedule and should be reported as a bug.

[flabbergast]

The software makes no accounting for the current, so the resistors make no difference.

Not directly - but it is useful to calculate the consumption of the LEDs on the board when the backlight is fully on (this does depend on the resistors) - and if it's too much (I consider anything > 200mA "too much", but of course USB 2.0 spec allows 500mA, and I suppose on most computers one can go higher without too much complaining from the computer), then they should never be allowed to be fully on. I.e. the highest brightness should be already some level of PWM.

I know that may be too much trouble to implement.

I also have a KBT Pure (not programmable of course), and that one has only 100 Ohm resistors - so even with 3V-forward voltage LEDs, it would be 20mA through a LED, so 1.2A when fully on! Way too much! That's why I mention it.

The Easy code has to work on all kinds of keyboards, so there is a problem when it comes to PWM.  I can't count on the boards to use the AVR's PWM pins for driving LEDs.  Some do but many don't.  Therefore, I had to implement software PWM.  This is slower than the hardware PWM.  Therefore, at the lowest setting, the LEDs are blinking at about 60 HZ.  As the brightness goes higher, that number quickly grows, so the flickering shouldn't be visible.

I did not realize that you need to do software PWM. That sucks.

But yes, 60Hz should not be visible without waving around.

[metalliqaz]

Yeah the resistors make a big difference.  It's just the software that doesn't care.  I size my resistors similar to you.  I keep it safely under that USB spec maximum.  I actually have a TODO item to check LED power usage during sleep mode.

[RavenII]

The software makes no accounting for the current, so the resistors make no difference.

The Easy code has to work on all kinds of keyboards, so there is a problem when it comes to PWM.  I can't count on the boards to use the AVR's PWM pins for driving LEDs.  Some do but many don't.  Therefore, I had to implement software PWM.  This is slower than the hardware PWM.  Therefore, at the lowest setting, the LEDs are blinking at about 60 HZ.  As the brightness goes higher, that number quickly grows, so the flickering shouldn't be visible.

A capacitor would help, yes.  I'm not sure what you meant by "in line", but to be of use the cap would be in a parallel circuit to the load, not serial.

Just so there's no confusion, I wasn't taking a shot at your or Gon's code. I was just stating a general opinion on LEDs, dimming, and flicker. As for the cap, I was going to try to put in in series, but you're right, it would in fact need to be paralleled in the circuit.

By the way, if there is serious flickering going on, that means the software is blowing it's schedule and should be reported as a bug.

Interesting, I don't th...well...I don't know I mean, my Ducky Zero doesn't flicker at all but I've never checked what the circuitry is for the LEDs....come to think of it, neither does my Monoprice GBL4....I wonder if there is something wrong with Gon's firmware. Admittedly, I do tend to notice flicker more than others...but still, this is pretty noticeable....hmm.

[flabbergast]

Yeah the resistors make a big difference.  It's just the software that doesn't care.  I size my resistors similar to you.  I keep it safely under that USB spec maximum.  I actually have a TODO item to check LED power usage during sleep mode.

Cool! Sorry for nagging I'll shut up now and let you do your job - you seem to be doing it pretty well, kudos!

[yehoshuaf]

Hi, I need some advice with a handwired keyboard and this firmware.
I'm coming from TMK and everything worked great so far. However when I tried this firmware, I adjusted the handwire.cfg and handwire_hardware.cfg, made a layout, built and flashed the hex file and I just couldn't get any output at all, even with the debug firmware. After some troubleshooting I figured the diodes must point in the wrong direction. In this case it's not a big problem, because it's only a 5x4 numpad and I can easily swap rows and colums of the pinout (layout is mirrored and turned by 90 degree though). But I own a Planck as well and I'd like to make it work with Easy AVR. Since the Planck has 12 columns I can't just make them rows.

Is there any other way to deal with this?

Edit: here's a picture of the wiring http://imgur.com/t6IvRc7

I'm working on it.

Hi. Great tool. I'd like to second this! I've got several customs that I wire in the opposite direction.

[RavenII]

Interesting, I don't th...well...I don't know I mean, my Ducky Zero doesn't flicker at all but I've never checked what the circuitry is for the LEDs....come to think of it, neither does my Monoprice GBL4....I wonder if there is something wrong with Gon's firmware. Admittedly, I do tend to notice flicker more than others...but still, this is pretty noticeable....hmm.

I take that back, apparently there IS a flicker on my Ducky, though unnoticeable.

Here's a video for everyone's enjoyment...

[MAR82]

Wow, I would love to be able to do 1200fps. The best my camera can do is 240fps at 320 x 240

[RavenII]

Wow, I would love to be able to do 1200fps. The best my camera can do is 240fps at 320 x 240

Yep, it's a Nikon 1 J3, I remember thinking "who the hell will use this gimmicky assed feature"...and well, I found out who...it comes in really handy at times.

[faxe]

Hi, I have a problem with your software and can't figure it out. I am using a Pegasus Hoof V2 and had multiple firmwares running without a problem on my keyboard. From one Firmware to the next (extended my existing layout by some macros) my keyboard behaves weirldy. Some keys work normally, some work only once and when i press them again they get "stuck", meaning the character is repeated until i press another key. I switched back to my original Filco controller, everything is fine. I tried a completly fresh basic Easy AVR Layout, also the same problem. Even old hex files that once worked don't work anymore.
To rule out a hardware problems with the Hoof i flashed the original firmware, works perfectly. Also tried the beta, same problem. I am totally at a loss what could be the problem.

[bovineblitz]

Hmm, I'm not certain that bpiphany added support for that LED to his controller.  He didn't seem to add it to the firmware.  It could be pin D0.  I'll make a test build.  Watch for my PM

It works!
(Sorry for image quality)

Show Image

My alt codes are coming out as individual alt presses rather than combos.  Instead of \ALT(224) being α it comes out as ☻☻♦.

[metalliqaz]

Happy 4th of July.  I'll get to bug fixin' after the holiday!

[worldspawn]

Finally got this working on my custom board, overall, fantastic!  The only issue I'm having is with the Boot mode combo.  I've got it bound to Fn+Esc, when I hit the combo, the board does something, and stops working as a keyboard, but never shows up as the atmega chip/com port on the computer, any idea what's going on?  I also cannot get it back into boot mode via the reset pin either since the most recent flash.

Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

[RavenII]

Finally got this working on my custom board, overall, fantastic!  The only issue I'm having is with the Boot mode combo.  I've got it bound to Fn+Esc, when I hit the combo, the board does something, and stops working as a keyboard, but never shows up as the atmega chip/com port on the computer, any idea what's going on?  I also cannot get it back into boot mode via the reset pin either since the most recent flash.

Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

That's weird, It doesn't show up anywhere?...I've not tried the latest firmware (I don't think), but I'll see if mine does the same thing. That is pretty strange though...

[worldspawn]

Finally got this working on my custom board, overall, fantastic!  The only issue I'm having is with the Boot mode combo.  I've got it bound to Fn+Esc, when I hit the combo, the board does something, and stops working as a keyboard, but never shows up as the atmega chip/com port on the computer, any idea what's going on?  I also cannot get it back into boot mode via the reset pin either since the most recent flash.

Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

That's weird, It doesn't show up anywhere?...I've not tried the latest firmware (I don't think), but I'll see if mine does the same thing. That is pretty strange though...

Yeah, as far as I can tell, windows recognizes the disconnect as a keyboard as it changes mode, then nothing, no new devices.

[Hzza]

I'm having the same issue, using the firmware you sent to me the other day. The same thing happens with the jumper on the back of the board as well; the board disconnects but the bootloader doesn't show up in device manager...

[deductivemonkee]

Is there support for a hand wired Atomic semi standard with teensy 2.0?

[bovineblitz]

Is there support for a hand wired Atomic semi standard with teensy 2.0?

Yeah just modify the handwire_hardware.cfg file in the cfg folder with the way you wired up your rows/columns.

[RavenII]

Finally got this working on my custom board, overall, fantastic!  The only issue I'm having is with the Boot mode combo.  I've got it bound to Fn+Esc, when I hit the combo, the board does something, and stops working as a keyboard, but never shows up as the atmega chip/com port on the computer, any idea what's going on?  I also cannot get it back into boot mode via the reset pin either since the most recent flash.

Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

That's weird, It doesn't show up anywhere?...I've not tried the latest firmware (I don't think), but I'll see if mine does the same thing. That is pretty strange though...

Yeah, as far as I can tell, windows recognizes the disconnect as a keyboard as it changes mode, then nothing, no new devices.

I'm having the same issue, using the firmware you sent to me the other day. The same thing happens with the jumper on the back of the board as well; the board disconnects but the bootloader doesn't show up in device manager...

Sorry, it works fine on my QFR with a Frosty Flake. I wonder if ti's specific to your KBs? Granted I'm on a Mac...maybe that's the difference?

[bovineblitz]

Finally got this working on my custom board, overall, fantastic!  The only issue I'm having is with the Boot mode combo.  I've got it bound to Fn+Esc, when I hit the combo, the board does something, and stops working as a keyboard, but never shows up as the atmega chip/com port on the computer, any idea what's going on?  I also cannot get it back into boot mode via the reset pin either since the most recent flash.

Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

That's weird, It doesn't show up anywhere?...I've not tried the latest firmware (I don't think), but I'll see if mine does the same thing. That is pretty strange though...

Yeah, as far as I can tell, windows recognizes the disconnect as a keyboard as it changes mode, then nothing, no new devices.

I'm having the same issue, using the firmware you sent to me the other day. The same thing happens with the jumper on the back of the board as well; the board disconnects but the bootloader doesn't show up in device manager...

Sorry, it works fine on my QFR with a Frosty Flake. I wonder if ti's specific to your KBs? Granted I'm on a Mac...maybe that's the difference?

It's working fine on my handwire with the files I downloaded about a week ago.

[suicidal_orange]

Is everyone using Teensys?  If you have a different bootloader it might not behave in exactly the same way, some controllers need a double tap of the button which isn't going to work in software.

...
Also, what do you name a pin in the handwire cfg for the backlighting activation?

You can put it on any LED, then in the configuration window you need to set that LED to backlight

[metalliqaz]

Hello gents, looks like I've got some work to do!  It was a long day.  I had some dental work done, after which I did some yard work during which I accidentally stabbed myself in the wrist with garden shears.  A few stitches at the ER and a few beers on the way home and I'm right back on track. 

I'm sure this stuff can be straightened out.  First things first, if you're using the latest code and it doesn't work, try the older versions and let me know if that fixes your problem.

By the way, while GH was down, I added an official backup page at DT wiki: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware

[faxe]

Nothing a few beers can't fix. Speaking of fixed, after i tried older firmwares (oldest was Easy_keymap_20150510) and worked my way up testing to the current version. All worked.
I dont't know what happened, but everything is fine. 

[RavenII]

Hello gents, looks like I've got some work to do!  It was a long day.  I had some dental work done, after which I did some yard work during which I accidentally stabbed myself in the wrist with garden shears.  A few stitches at the ER and a few beers on the way home and I'm right back on track. 

I'm sure this stuff can be straightened out.  First things first, if you're using the latest code and it doesn't work, try the older versions and let me know if that fixes your problem.

By the way, while GH was down, I added an official backup page at DT wiki: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware

Holy...wow, umm, get better man, gotta worry about numero uno before all else. One person told me, "You're no use to anyone if you're dead"...

[worldspawn]

Hello gents, looks like I've got some work to do!  It was a long day.  I had some dental work done, after which I did some yard work during which I accidentally stabbed myself in the wrist with garden shears.  A few stitches at the ER and a few beers on the way home and I'm right back on track. 

I'm sure this stuff can be straightened out.  First things first, if you're using the latest code and it doesn't work, try the older versions and let me know if that fixes your problem.

By the way, while GH was down, I added an official backup page at DT wiki: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware

Any idea how to get the atmega 32u4 back into boot mode with the boot combo not working right?  The reset switch is also no longer putting it into boot mode either since the last firmware flash.

[bovineblitz]

I discovered that when highlighting things (text) with shift and up arrow it seems to behave inconsistently.  The first arrow press doesn't usually highlight, the next two do, then the fourth one unhighlights everything again.

[metalliqaz]

Hello gents, looks like I've got some work to do!  It was a long day.  I had some dental work done, after which I did some yard work during which I accidentally stabbed myself in the wrist with garden shears.  A few stitches at the ER and a few beers on the way home and I'm right back on track. 

I'm sure this stuff can be straightened out.  First things first, if you're using the latest code and it doesn't work, try the older versions and let me know if that fixes your problem.

By the way, while GH was down, I added an official backup page at DT wiki: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware

Any idea how to get the atmega 32u4 back into boot mode with the boot combo not working right?  The reset switch is also no longer putting it into boot mode either since the last firmware flash.

That shouldn't be possible.  When you reprogram your board with Flip or Teensy, it will not allow modification to the memory that holds the bootloader.  This prevents bricking your 32U4.  Now, it's entirely possible that I goofed up the BOOT key somehow (although it works for me), but if you press the reset switch properly, you can be darn sure it's going into bootloader mode.

What keyboard are you using?

[metalliqaz]

I discovered that when highlighting things (text) with shift and up arrow it seems to behave inconsistently.  The first arrow press doesn't usually highlight, the next two do, then the fourth one unhighlights everything again.

What keyboard are you using?

[bovineblitz]

It's handwired.  The highlighting/unhighlighting seems random now that I play with it again.  Other arrows are fine.

[suicidal_orange]

It's handwired.  The highlighting/unhighlighting seems random now that I play with it again.  Other arrows are fine.

Have you tried aqua key test to confirm which keys light up when you hold shift and up?  Sounds like you might have a diode backwards causing ghost presses

[worldspawn]

Hello gents, looks like I've got some work to do!  It was a long day.  I had some dental work done, after which I did some yard work during which I accidentally stabbed myself in the wrist with garden shears.  A few stitches at the ER and a few beers on the way home and I'm right back on track. 

I'm sure this stuff can be straightened out.  First things first, if you're using the latest code and it doesn't work, try the older versions and let me know if that fixes your problem.

By the way, while GH was down, I added an official backup page at DT wiki: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Easy_AVR_USB_Keyboard_Firmware

Any idea how to get the atmega 32u4 back into boot mode with the boot combo not working right?  The reset switch is also no longer putting it into boot mode either since the last firmware flash.

That shouldn't be possible.  When you reprogram your board with Flip or Teensy, it will not allow modification to the memory that holds the bootloader.  This prevents bricking your 32U4.  Now, it's entirely possible that I goofed up the BOOT key somehow (although it works for me), but if you press the reset switch properly, you can be darn sure it's going into bootloader mode.

What keyboard are you using?

It's a custom board based upon the atreus design.  I have the reset pin of the 32u4 tied to a jumper to ground.  What is the default method to put it into bootloader mode via the reset?  That information is surprisingly elusive on the internet.

[flabbergast]

It's a custom board based upon the atreus design.  I have the reset pin of the 32u4 tied to a jumper to ground.  What is the default method to put it into bootloader mode via the reset?  That information is surprisingly elusive on the internet.

That depends on the particular bootloader. So - what bootloader are you using (i.e. where did the 32u4 come from, or did you flash some bootloader yourself?

[worldspawn]

It's the factory atmega bootloader, this was a bare chip from atmega.

[flabbergast]

It's the factory atmega bootloader, this was a bare chip from atmega.

OK, then it's atmel's DFU bootloader, and the fuses are probably on their defaults.

Whether the chip will go to bootloader on powerup/reset depends on a couple of fuses and maybe some pin status (reading the datasheet).

BOOTRST fuse: if programmed (=0), then the chip *will* jump to bootloader on every powerup/reset. From the datasheet it looks like chips ship with BOOTRST fuse unprogrammed (=1), so that's not good for you.

HWBE fuse: if programmed (=0), then the chip can be forced to go to bootloader on powerup/reset by taking the HWB pin (PE2) low. Reading the datasheet, this fuse is by default programmed (=0) on 32U4 (potentially good for you), and unprogrammed (=1) on 32U4RC (this would be bad, since there's no way then to force entering bootloader).

So:

If the fuses are both unprogrammed (=1) then there's no way to enter the bootloader by hardware, so either you can do it in firmware, or you'll need an AVR ISP programmer and access to 4 pins of the atmega (reset, miso, mosi, sck).

If BOOTRST=1 and HWB=0, then you'll need access to the PE2 pin of the atmega. Tie this to ground, and either reset or power up the board. It will go to bootloader.

To change the fuses, you need an AVR ISP programmer (an arduino or a teensy can act as one if you have those) and access to reset, mosi, miso, sck pins.

EDIT: some further comments: Once you have an ISP programmer, you can reprogram the whole flash including the bootloader if you want. The keyboards I've seen (e.g. bphiphany's controllers) or teensy have BOOTRST fuse programmed, so that the chip enters the bootloader on every reset/powerup. The bootloaders that are used then check whether is was a reset or powerup, and will jump to the application code if it was a powerup (the behaviour is then than the keyboard will look like a keyboard when plugged in, but will go to bootloader when reset while still powered up).