[DONE] Travel-friendly ergonomic layout

[qisqaqas]

Hi everybody!

I'm working on an ergonomic keyboard layout for the past weeks. Personally, I never liked ErgoDox, and other big and bulky stuff (now I lost the 90% of my audience  ), so I designed this kind of  layout. I carry my keyboard everywhere, so I don't want to hear about two halves. I liked Atreus, but I found this minimalism unnecessary. Another inspiring keyboard was the Diverge keyboard. But only for the thumb cluster.



If anyone has advice, criticism or anything else, please let me know what do you think about this design.

Update:
Build done:

[jacobolus]

Nice. It’s a good idea to make the stagger a bit more aggressive than on the Ergodox for a flat keyboard. What are you going to make your keyboard out of? Have you tried prototyping it?

Looks like some of my own ideas:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62848
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56095

[Findecanor]

Welcome to Geekhack qisqaqas! I find your layout to be very sensible. If I were you I might want to add an additional modifier key unless you intend to use keys that do different things when you "tap" vs. "hold" them.

I would suggest you print the layout on paper and try mock-typing on the paper prototypes. The one thing you might want to adjust could be the angle of the halves - which would depend on your shoulder width.

[kurplop]

Having done a board with similarities to your proposed layout, I think that you might benefit by a few more keys under your alphas that could be hit by either your thumbs or fingers. There's room and radial thumb fan establishes the minimum footprint anyways.

Also, I can't overstress testing the radial keys placement. I got mine right after a lot of adjustments and while it works for me, it wouldn't necessary fit all hands.

As suggested above, now is the time to also test the angles for the effects they have on  both wrist pronation and ulnar deviation. The plan looks good overall.

I'll be looking forward to see this progress.

[Oobly]

Good looking layout, I like the stagger and general placement a lot. Like a 60% Atreus

Having done a board with similarities to your proposed layout, I think that you might benefit by a few more keys under your alphas that could be hit by either your thumbs or fingers. There's room and radial thumb fan establishes the minimum footprint anyways.

Also, I can't overstress testing the radial keys placement. I got mine right after a lot of adjustments and while it works for me, it wouldn't necessary fit all hands.

As suggested above, now is the time to also test the angles for the effects they have on  both wrist pronation and ulnar deviation. The plan looks good overall.

I'll be looking forward to see this progress.

I agree with kurplop here. You can print out the layout and test type on the paper to see how the thumb key placement works for you. As for the splay angle, with a connected board you can move it closer / further away to change the angle of the hands to the board, so it's best to find the most comfortable distance and the most comfortable angle at that distance for you.

I found having an arrow and edit cluster in the space at the bottom of each side to be really handy, but you may have to adjust your outer thumb key angles / positions to fit them.

[qisqaqas]

Nice. It’s a good idea to make the stagger a bit more aggressive than on the Ergodox for a flat keyboard. What are you going to make your keyboard out of? Have you tried prototyping it?

Thanks jacobolus! The stagger of the ergodox design is not that bad on the alphas, but the little fingers... Uncomfortable. I prototyped only on paper. The plan is some kind of an aluminum plate on top and bottom, and with acrylic or wodden spacer in that metal sandwich. 

Having done a board with similarities to your proposed layout, I think that you might benefit by a few more keys under your alphas that could be hit by either your thumbs or fingers. There's room and radial thumb fan establishes the minimum footprint anyways.

Also, I can't overstress testing the radial keys placement. I got mine right after a lot of adjustments and while it works for me, it wouldn't necessary fit all hands.

As suggested above, now is the time to also test the angles for the effects they have on  both wrist pronation and ulnar deviation. The plan looks good overall.

I'll be looking forward to see this progress.

I worked a lot on the thumb section, and I found some suprising regularity on the layout. I dont know if it is my hands or just found a Saint Grail of the keyboard layouts. I'll explain it later.

I want to materialize this beauty in less than a month. If everything goes smooth of course. If everything goes well, and everything is done, I'll post the worklog.

Welcome to Geekhack qisqaqas! I find your layout to be very sensible. If I were you I might want to add an additional modifier key unless you intend to use keys that do different things when you "tap" vs. "hold" them.

I would suggest you print the layout on paper and try mock-typing on the paper prototypes. The one thing you might want to adjust could be the angle of the halves - which would depend on your shoulder width.

Thank you, Findecanor!

One thing I didn't mention the budget (I have the memory of a gold fish ). Main goal is to be cost effective. Signature Plastics offer 54 1x1 keys for 25$, and thats all I can work with. Kind of a challenge, but I like it.
I did a lot of printing (I feel my printer hates me) and found this very satisfying.

Good looking layout, I like the stagger and general placement a lot. Like a 60% Atreus

I agree with kurplop here. You can print out the layout and test type on the paper to see how the thumb key placement works for you. As for the splay angle, with a connected board you can move it closer / further away to change the angle of the hands to the board, so it's best to find the most comfortable distance and the most comfortable angle at that distance for you.

I found having an arrow and edit cluster in the space at the bottom of each side to be really handy, but you may have to adjust your outer thumb key angles / positions to fit them.

I'm a big fan of the arrow cluster since I saw the Axios keyboard.

It's both a financial and some kind of a comforability issue, that I didn't include this. If somebody can name a place where I can buy cheap PBT keycaps (blank preferred) then maybe I change my mind.

And now about he layout. I tried a lot of stagger versions but I found this the most comfortable. I don't now it's a coincidence or not but as you see the clusters of the invidual fingers top corner is lining up. I only used 15° rotation, I highlighted with red.


The wirst placement is good in my opinion, but the wirsts are not straight if you move your keyboard too close or too far from yourself. It is the curse of the fixed angle of the halves.

EDIT: another restriction on key number: I'll use Pro Micro microcontrollers, because it's dirt-cheap. First thing will be is overwriting arduino and use a tmk keyboard software fork.

[jacobolus]

One thing I didn't mention the budget (I have the memory of a gold fish ). Main goal is to be cost effective. Signature Plastics offer 54 1x1 keys for 25$, and thats all I can work with. Kind of a challenge, but I like it.

Personally I’d recommend ditching the top corner pinky keys, which are a nasty stretch to reach, and adding a couple extra thumb keys with those switches.

[Oobly]

...Main goal is to be cost effective. ...

I don't think that's possible when making your own custom keyboard. I mean you can save by harvesting switches from cheap 2nd hand boards, etc, but compromising on the design in order to save $10 on keycaps is a false economy. You're putting all the effort into making a custom board, so it's best to make it as "complete" and close to perfect as you can.

[qisqaqas]

...Main goal is to be cost effective. ...

I don't think that's possible when making your own custom keyboard. I mean you can save by harvesting switches from cheap 2nd hand boards, etc, but compromising on the design in order to save $10 on keycaps is a false economy. You're putting all the effort into making a custom board, so it's best to make it as "complete" and close to perfect as you can.

It's hard. But possible. The current budget is around 60 USD. Without the case. But that's wont be more expensive than 50 USD. And that is an optional goal to make it under 110$. Why: Most commercial mechanical keyborards here costs around 110, with a really bad exchange rate. (with goot it would be 130-140)

BOM(to date):
Keycaps: Signature Plastics Blank PBT DSA 30$ (with shipping)
Keyswitches: Local shop: ~0.36/pc ~20$ overall  and recently participated in a gateron GB, with that it would be cheaper. Even with our wolrd leading 27% VAT (yay)
Controller: ~5$ ebay
Wiring, diodes etc: ~5$
Case: now I experiment with screws and other things, what would be better. Case is not finalised. (recent version resemble an underwear, it would be funny to type on )

So I try to do something really good, but with a low budget. And then I can say: Hey! You want an ergonomic keyboard? Oh you dont have 200-300$ for an <random ergonomic keyboard name>? Build a better stuff with half the price.

I know if I build something that fits for me or other few people, it wont fit another bunch. But it would be a good alternative, an introduction to the ergonomical and mechanical keyboards. My intention with this thread was to eliminate any design flaws I have/made, with advices/directions from the experts.(or at least from more experienced people than me) That is because I worked on this hard, tried a lot of tweaks etc, and I thought is is almost perfect. But it is not. Not even close. I modified the design at least ten times since I started this thread.

One thing I didn't mention the budget (I have the memory of a gold fish ). Main goal is to be cost effective. Signature Plastics offer 54 1x1 keys for 25$, and thats all I can work with. Kind of a challenge, but I like it.

Personally I’d recommend ditching the top corner pinky keys, which are a nasty stretch to reach, and adding a couple extra thumb keys with those switches.

You are right. Where will you put these keys? I found space for only one in the thumb cluster. And another one could fit on the middle. But I'm a bit unsure about this. Time to prototype! 

[qisqaqas]

Big update! Now I'm pretty statisfied with this.

First the images: http://imgur.com/a/WfRmL



Here you can see a top view plus the side plating. Side plates are made from the same material as the top or bottom plate(aluminum or painted steel - 1.5mm thick). Side plates only function is sealing and hiding the inner parts. These are held in place by plexiglass/acrylic spacers marked with orange. This solution is better than a full cut, because we using way less material, therefore producing less waste. Another advantage is, you can mark your keyboard as this guy did. But Is this make it fraglie? Side plate on top has a hole for the USB cable.

The hexagonal grey stuff are female-female metal spacers. Not cost effective but, makes this keyboard more robust. The red hexagonal spacers are 5mm long because they hold the electronics, (MCU, perfboard, PCB, you name it) and the others are 8mm long.

The little circles in the middle of the hexagons are screwholes. M2.5 screws, they are 5mm long on the bottom plate and the top plate except if you want an optional cover on top, then you need longer screws on top, and still 5mm where marked these as purple.

I modified the thumb section, so you can use it with 1.25u keys from a standard set.

Second picture, cutting templates:



Top left: bottom plate
Top right: optional covering plate
Bottom left: switch tray/top plate
Bottom right: spacer stuff


Plans for now:
- make it work

Plans for the future:
- LED support (SIP socket mod, pwm driven - breathing effect FTW)
- Bluetooth support (strong encryption)

If there any design flaw, feel free to correct me!

Keycaps on ther way! AWW YISS!

[alexofthewest]

If you do make it Bluetooth compatible, I think I'd want to purchase this as my last keyboard.

[jacobolus]

By the way, have you seen http://www.esrille.com/keyboard/ ?

[berserkfan]

I wonder why no one ever considers deliberately using different keycap heights for simulating the different finger lengths, instead of using staggered keys which take up more space (ie making this keyboard less transportable and therefore less travel friendly).

I have found that using low keys like DSA or KMX for the middle finger, and high keys like SA for the pinkies, works very well.

[jacobolus]

I wonder why no one ever considers deliberately using different keycap heights for simulating the different finger lengths

I’ve considered it at length. Basically, to do it right requires completely tooling a very complicated set of keycaps, with several different heights and angles, as there’s no easy/obvious mix of existing keycaps that does a particularly good job.

Assuming DSS profile were still available, my proposal for a mix of DSS and SA keycaps was something like:


That might be better than existing setups, but it’s not all that great.

In any event, you still need a fair amount of stagger between columns IMO, only a bit less than if the keycaps are more uniform. (My picture above probably has more pinky stagger than it should for this proposed set of keycaps though.)

Ultimately, I think it’s easier to just build a structure for the switches that places them at different vertical positions (e.g. by milling it out of a block of something, using vacuum forming like the Maltron, or 3d printing it), instead of trying to use the keycap to set the height.

[berserkfan]

I think your perfectionism has gotten in the way. I saw your many threads on this topic and couldn’t keep up with your detailed analysis of the keycap heights and profiles.


For me the way to solve it was easy and cheap and practical (but damn ugly, which is why you don’t see me offering pictures):

1)   I have many keycap sets
2)   These keycap sets are in different profiles and I will never use them all
3)   I have tons of relegendables and weird keycaps eg KMX profile, Hengyu profile, Tipro flats, etc.

So for me it was easy peasy to put several different profiles on the same keyboard. The middle finger keys get the lowest profile, along with the winkeys (since I don’t’ want to actuate windows accidentally.)

The ring and index fingers get the next lowest profiles

The pinkies get the higher profiles since they are the shortest. The highest profiles go to the tab and backspace keys, since these are hardest to actuate with the little fingers which must stretch up. I use SA since it’s highest.

I also use different profiles to differentiate other keys so that I can touch type. Since I am using a split  matrix board, if I have everything the same profile it is impossible to touch type. I use a lower profile on my 34 and 90 keys, which are in the middle of the 1-6 on one side and the 7-= keys on the other side. Because these keys are lower, I can instantly detect them by touch when I move my hand up the keyboard.  Being able to locate them with middle fingers, I can locate the other keys near them, namely the f1-f6 and f7-f12 keys which normally on a matrix board you can’t locate by touch because they’re all the same profile. But when I put my hand down on the lower profile 3, 4, I know that what’s above must be f3, f4 and what’s beside must be 2, 5.

The space and return keys are actuated by my thumbs on my layout. I use SA on them to make them ultra easy to reach.

The top row of my 8 row matrix keyboard, for my macro keys, is meant for SA keys but my proxy shipper hasn’t gotten them to me yet. Again the reason for SA is that it’s the highest profile and therefore easiest to reach.

In contrast, the bottom row of my 8 row keyboard is dedicated for various navigation functions like arrows. I use a lower profile for them (mix of X keys and Tipro KMX) since they are so easy to reach.

The result is a keyboard that really looks incredibly bad. I have never seen an uglier board on geekhack. BUT the usability is amazing. I can totally touch type on this matrix board and anywhere I move my hand, I can locate where I am instantly because there is some key or key profile that identifies itself!

Regarding building a ‘structure’, isn’t the real problem with the PCB? You can’t really produce curved PCBs, so any ‘curve’ will wind up like the Kinesis, a whole lot of segmented mini PCBs that are a nightmare to look at. I suppose someone dedicated enough could build that keyboard but it is too complicated for me to assemble.

[jacobolus]

Nah, PCBs are only necessary for mass-produced stuff. Just mount the switches in the case/plate structure and hand wire them.

[Oobly]

...You can’t really produce curved PCBs...

Oh really?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1894



One problem with curved PCB's is they still require soldering by hand since in most cases they can't be wave soldered and aren't pick and place machine compatible, so if the component count is small it's still better to hand wire. Another problem is hole drilling is more difficult to do accurately due to the flex.

But curved PCB's are definitely possible.

This stuff is pretty fun for projects, too: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1518

[berserkfan]

...You can’t really produce curved PCBs...

Oh really?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1894



One problem with curved PCB's is they still require soldering by hand since in most cases they can't be wave soldered and aren't pick and place machine compatible, so if the component count is small it's still better to hand wire. Another problem is hole drilling is more difficult to do accurately due to the flex.

But curved PCB's are definitely possible.

This stuff is pretty fun for projects, too: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1518

I don't get how the pricing works, but I assume you're not going to be able to just call up any company and place an order for a PCB that you want curved? Then the next steps will be getting the casing and the plate, and I quite doubt that's so easily done. Rather than wait several years for someone to do a Kinesis style group buy, I think most people should just get keycaps of different height profiles to simulate some PCB curvature

[qisqaqas]

I don't get how the pricing works, but I assume you're not going to be able to just call up any company and place an order for a PCB that you want curved? Then the next steps will be getting the casing and the plate, and I quite doubt that's so easily done. Rather than wait several years for someone to do a Kinesis style group buy, I think most people should just get keycaps of different height profiles to simulate some PCB curvature

OR:

If you do make it Bluetooth compatible, I think I'd want to purchase this as my last keyboard.

I'm not planning to sell these, they aren't safe for massproducing. Even for a small batch. If there will be a demand I'll do my best. Until that I only make efforts to make this board better, and hunt down each design flaw; and make these extensions(like LED, BT, or others. I can't think of more, suggestions are welcomed ) But I will release the instructions, how to make it for yourself.

UPDATE:
The case will be made of full powder coated metal, with bent sides. I'll redesign the top plate so it will have some feet/ears (I dont know how do you call it, we say ears), a protruding leaf on each side which will be bent and it will form a box with the bottom plate.  I hope you get it. 

[berserkfan]

That's very interesting! Here are two concerns though:

Firstly, that looks like 3D printing? I am very ignorant, but as far as I understand the common form of 3D printing is the prototyping type that uses plastic that melts at 65C. It would be much better to print using some more resilient plastic.

Secondly, I'm not a fan of direct wiring without a PCB. Reason is that you need to attach the keyswitch securely. If you ever swap out the stems (something I do because of my jailhouse mod), or pull out the keycaps, the switch may follow.

[qisqaqas]

Firstly, that looks like 3D printing? I am very ignorant, but as far as I understand the common form of 3D printing is the prototyping type that uses plastic that melts at 65C. It would be much better to print using some more resilient plastic.

It is 3D printing. The FFF materials mostly melts at above 100C, and above 90C  bending can cause permanent deformation on some material.

[berserkfan]

It is 3D printing. The FFF materials mostly melts at above 100C, and above 90C  bending can cause permanent deformation on some material.

Do you have a name or description for this kind of 3D printing? When I asked more than a year ago the (possibly ignorant) people at the shop said there was only 1 kind, 65C prototyping, available.

If the 3D printing method you're using uses temperatures above 100C I think it is resilient enough to try out.

I'll probably not go with your design, but at least it is useful as a model many people can use. EG if you post the files I'm sure many people will download and go to some local shop to try. Cost and customability should be far better than getting a Kinesis advantage.

[Tshort]

Is that 3D printed case the same as this?

https://github.com/adereth/dactyl-cave

[qisqaqas]

Is that 3D printed case the same as this?

https://github.com/adereth/dactyl-cave

https://twitter.com/adereth/status/472380239881175040 Yep. It's the same person.

It is 3D printing. The FFF materials mostly melts at above 100C, and above 90C  bending can cause permanent deformation on some material.

Do you have a name or description for this kind of 3D printing? When I asked more than a year ago the (possibly ignorant) people at the shop said there was only 1 kind, 65C prototyping, available.

If the 3D printing method you're using uses temperatures above 100C I think it is resilient enough to try out.

I'll probably not go with your design, but at least it is useful as a model many people can use. EG if you post the files I'm sure many people will download and go to some local shop to try. Cost and customability should be far better than getting a Kinesis advantage.

I'm not using a 3Dprint technology, because I didn't recieve my 3D printer. And I decided to go without it. You can read more about this topic here http://sd3dprinting.com/fff-vs-sla-vs-sls/ . FFF is Fused Filament Fabrication, pretty common amongst 3D printers. Mostly because these printers are cheap(not the makerbot ones ) and the filament is pretty cheap either. The best FFF machines has 0.1 or 0.05 mm accuracy, and people with 3D printers will be a better choice than 3D printing shops. (They are calculating the time in the price, and the machines probably set to slow speed too )

[shaymdev]

I really like the idea of a travel friendly ergo board since I'd probably be toting my to and from work. I'm keeping a close eye on your progress!

The current budget is around 60 USD. Without the case. But that's wont be more expensive than 50 USD.

UPDATE:
The case will be made of full powder coated metal, with bent sides. I'll redesign the top plate so it will have some feet/ears (I dont know how do you call it, we say ears), a protruding leaf on each side which will be bent and it will form a box with the bottom plate.

With these new design decisions do you think you'll still be able to keep it close to the budget? building a custom ergo board and am trying to figure out my best options for the case. I like the idea of making the switch plate of aluminum or some metal but so far I don't think that I can keep it within my case budget (which is about the same as yours).

I know its too late but I wanted to mention that I was able to order the same pbt caps from signature plastics (pimpmykeyboard) but modified my order. I ordered the standard base set but requested to exchange all the bigger keys for 1x keys (1.5x Key plus 6.2x key is almost equal to 8 keys) so I got 62 - 1x keys for the same price.

[qisqaqas]

I really like the idea of a travel friendly ergo board since I'd probably be toting my to and from work. I'm keeping a close eye on your progress!

Thank you! I'll update as soon as I can progress with it. For now, I have to wait for the parts. I hate it. I'm really impatient.

With these new design decisions do you think you'll still be able to keep it close to the budget? building a custom ergo board and am trying to figure out my best options for the case. I like the idea of making the switch plate of aluminum or some metal but so far I don't think that I can keep it within my case budget (which is about the same as yours).

I'm hella sure! New design decisions are made because of the costs. I'll try to keep it low as I can. Now it seems I'll succeed. A rough estimate is around 90USD in total. The maximum is about 100, but this is only an estimated price, I didnt pay customs for the keycaps, and the switches yet (27% VAT, and ~10$ for the customs service oh yeah). And still have to pay for the case too.

I know its too late but I wanted to mention that I was able to order the same pbt caps from signature plastics (pimpmykeyboard) but modified my order. I ordered the standard base set but requested to exchange all the bigger keys for 1x keys (1.5x Key plus 6.2x key is almost equal to 8 keys) so I got 62 - 1x keys for the same price.

Oh boy! I didn't know they are that flexible. Nobody told that. Next time I'll be smarter then.

[vivalarevolución]

There is this mod on the Atreus that is interesting.  The creator has mentioned that he will develop a later version with Alps/Matias capability  Although another column would be nice.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70205.0

[qisqaqas]

There is this mod on the Atreus that is interesting.  The creator has mentioned that he will develop a later version with Alps/Matias capability  Although another column would be nice.

You got the problem with atreus. Too few keys. And Matias is not an option until I can buy keycaps for it.

This (my) build is about a proper thumb section. Still an experiment, but looks good.

[qisqaqas]

Before bending. Yaaay!

[absyrd]

Looking good! G'luck on the bending.

[qisqaqas]

Looking good! G'luck on the bending.

Show Image

You're punny!   :))  :))

Bending done. Im suprised the manufacturer welded the edges. Wow. Looks good. They will be painted next monday, so next week or the one after will be assembly week. :)

[shaymdev]

This case is looking awesome! Please share details on who you've had make it for you, what type of 'options' you chose, what things you've had to do yourself, and the costs.

I'd love a metal plate but the pricing seems to be holding me to acrylic. If I could do something like yours for a reasonable cost, I'd make a few extra tabs bent from the edges to act as mount points for the bottom plate. The bottom plate would then be made of acrylic to allow me to look into the guts and see all the handwiring.

ascii drawing to show the extra tabs below that I'd use for base plate mount points:
  __  __  __  __  __  __
 |                                 |
 |_                             _|

[qisqaqas]

It wont be a good option for you because I live in Europe. The manufacturer did the powder coat painting, welding, bending, cutting, so I got two piece/ case. It was cheaper because the manufacturer is a friend of friend. But it wont be over 50 USD in normal conditions.

I got 2mm thick Aluminium and 1,5mm Steel plate as well. Both feels solid as hell, however, the steel is somewhat heavier. I know the price is about twice as many as the acrylic version but its worth it.

Teasing pics aka keyboard pr0n: 



http://imgur.com/a/wpv35

I did not do any work on this yet, just put the switches, and keycaps in place, aaaand soon I was busy with: "OMG this is amazing. Gawd it is awesome!" That is what I did today.

[qisqaqas]

DONE!

build log comes later

[CPTBadAss]

So cool! I love that it's a metal case and the minimal design. Plus the layout looks a lot like the keyboardio layout with I found insanely comfortable! Great job.

[Oobly]

It wont be a good option for you because I live in Europe. The manufacturer did the powder coat painting, welding, bending, cutting, so I got two piece/ case. It was cheaper because the manufacturer is a friend of friend. But it wont be over 50 USD in normal conditions.

....

But it might be useful info for those of us who DO live in EU

Great job on the board, looks awesome!

[qisqaqas]

It wont be a good option for you because I live in Europe. The manufacturer did the powder coat painting, welding, bending, cutting, so I got two piece/ case. It was cheaper because the manufacturer is a friend of friend. But it wont be over 50 USD in normal conditions.

....

But it might be useful info for those of us who DO live in EU

Great job on the board, looks awesome!

So cool! I love that it's a metal case and the minimal design. Plus the layout looks a lot like the keyboardio layout with I found insanely comfortable! Great job.

Thanks guys! I didn't expect appreciation from such a great names like yours.
I talked with the manufacturer, they do not accept international orders.  Tipical in my country... Sorry.

http://imgur.com/a/BKKkQ images here 

and accidentally built another one.

[OverKill]

It wont be a good option for you because I live in Europe. The manufacturer did the powder coat painting, welding, bending, cutting, so I got two piece/ case. It was cheaper because the manufacturer is a friend of friend. But it wont be over 50 USD in normal conditions.

....

But it might be useful info for those of us who DO live in EU

Great job on the board, looks awesome!

So cool! I love that it's a metal case and the minimal design. Plus the layout looks a lot like the keyboardio layout with I found insanely comfortable! Great job.

Thanks guys! I didn't expect appreciation from such a great names like yours.
I talked with the manufacturer, they do not accept international orders.  Tipical in my country... Sorry.

http://imgur.com/a/BKKkQ images here 

and accidentally built another one.

Show Image

"accidentally"

[hoggy]

Looks real nice.  I want one.

[qisqaqas]

Looks real nice.  I want one.

Thanks! I have some spare cases — just in case — if you want one, its possible.

Vid here  https://vid.me/O8BA

[jamadagni]

Qisqasqas can you please post the key layout that you are using? I mean where you put the modifiers etc?

[qisqaqas]

Qisqasqas can you please post the key layout that you are using? I mean where you put the modifiers etc?

Of course! This is right here:



Just keep in mind I use Colemak layout. This layout is still not final but I use it about a month without any changes.

[jamadagni]

@qisqaqas Thanks for posting the layout. Another Q: don't you have problem with the \__/ -like edge pressing on your palm in resting position? It might have been better to make it something like /_____\ and stick on palm rests or whatever. (That way it doesn't resemble an underwear either, LOL!)

BTW any chance you can make another piece and ship to India?

[qisqaqas]

@qisqaqas Thanks for posting the layout. Another Q: don't you have problem with the \__/ -like edge pressing on your palm in resting position? It might have been better to make it something like /_____\ and stick on palm rests or whatever. (That way it doesn't resemble an underwear either, LOL!)

BTW any chance you can make another piece and ship to India?

My palms rest on the desk usually, and doesn't touch the keyboards case. There is  skrews, so if you make a nice palmrest, you can attach it through the screws. (3Dprint, woodwork, you name it.)

Yep, I can make another one, when my controllers arrive to me. I still have some plate, made from steel. I can't include keycaps because I don't have any for these layout but If you are interested I can sell a labeled cherry profile PBT keycap set.(for ANSI keyboards) berserkfan has some keycap for a good price, contact him if you feel so.

I'm only concerned about shipping and tax. I don't know your country's regulations. The shipping will be around 50USD according to our postal service online calculator.

[hoggy]

Looks real nice.  I want one.

Thanks! I have some spare cases — just in case — if you want one, its possible.

Vid here  https://vid.me/O8BA

Hi!

I'm sorry for what might have come across as a rude delay in getting back to you about a spare case of your travel friendly keyboard. I haven't been checking in to gh as frequently as I should.

If you still have a spare, I'm still interested if that's okay.

Kind regards

Chris

[Heliobb]

Read all the posts twice. Really like what you did. Congrats

[qisqaqas]

Looks real nice.  I want one.

Thanks! I have some spare cases — just in case — if you want one, its possible.

Vid here  https://vid.me/O8BA

Hi!

I'm sorry for what might have come across as a rude delay in getting back to you about a spare case of your travel friendly keyboard. I haven't been checking in to gh as frequently as I should.

If you still have a spare, I'm still interested if that's okay.

Kind regards

Chris

No problem at all. I still have some steel cases laying around.

Read all the posts twice. Really like what you did. Congrats

Thanks!

[Heliobb]

Can you take a picture of how it is under the keyboard?

[qisqaqas]

Can you take a picture of how it is under the keyboard?

I already did. You can found it here or in the #36.

[Heliobb]

Can you take a picture of how it is under the keyboard?

I already did. You can found it here or in the #36.

Great thanks