Author Topic: Ripster's Guide to Opening Your Filco And What You'lll See (Gen1) (Read 127837 times)

itlnstln · « **on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 12:54:17 »

You're a bold man, ripster. You sure like to wear your b*lls on your sleeve.

ssb · « **Reply #1 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 17:43:28 »

Great detailed photos! Thanks ripster.
BTW what a great shiny spacebar. :biggrin: I thought I was the only one who was able to wear key texture so fast.

wellington1869 · « **Reply #2 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 17:49:38 »

seriously nice pics.

btw what does the ripOmeter say on the brown filco? (Or did I miss that?)

wellington1869 · « **Reply #3 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 18:13:25 »

Quote from: ripster;98426

45 gms on the RipOmeter.

.

damn, same as the topres? Have you ripO'ed the topres?

wellington1869 · « **Reply #4 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 19:12:17 »

Quote from: ripster;98445

Welly, the Topres are here. All of a sudden I'm your bookmark boy.

eeexcellent, thanks for the link. well i figure you're in charge of the ripOmeter. Its like how if you save someone's life you're in charge of them forever.

(besides I happen to be in a starbucks with a book on my forearms, so I'm not in an ideal position to go hunting for old links

At least thats my excuse and i'm sticking with it.

damn, so the topres really are 45g's. I say damn cuz i've always found the cherrry browns to be annoyingly light. However, I dont remember being annoyed by the topres when i tried them out. SO hopefully other factors will make me not hate them. Well we'll find out tomorrow when my topre board arrives.

[insert huge image of Mr. Burns here].

watduzhkstand4 · « **Reply #5 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 19:40:47 »

ripster, you're the man!

Quote

Bwahahahah! Troll Alert, Troll Alert! Eww... shoulda dusted my 3 month old keyboard first.

trust me, I have this blank one for a few days and that's all I've been doing, blowing and dusting it lol.

Also, elitekeyboards has the roof for both the FIlco 104 and Filco 87. Check it out!
I think I'm just gonna use that plastic cover that the board came with... for now xD!

Here are the links:

87
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=filco_keyboards,accessories&pid=rfmek

104
http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=filco_keyboards,accessories&pid=rfek

wellington1869 · « **Reply #6 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 20:17:59 »

Quote from: ripster;98465

Geez Welly, 1600x1600 pic - even I don't post those!

Fixed.

Quote

And ya gotta get yourself psyched for the Topre. Only vegetarian for 24 hours. Skim milk in that Latte you're drinking. Be LITE, not MEATY.

awww, maaaan. Well, maybe the topre will wind up being good for my waistline anyway.

Quote

It's like that time you talked yourself into buying the UltraNav before anyone had a chance to post.

lol, that was fun. you guys were too slow for me

huha · « **Reply #7 on:** Mon, 22 June 2009, 20:27:49 »

Can you supply us with ...

- PCB panorama shots?
- Shots of the controller board? I'd be interested in the controller they use.

-huha

watduzhkstand4 · « **Reply #8 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 01:27:31 »

is this why the Filco is better than the DAS in NKRO?

majestouch · « **Reply #9 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 01:42:51 »

*sigh*

ironcoder · « **Reply #10 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 06:38:04 »

Quote from: ripster;98336

Here is where you would desolder the leds - looks trivial and a lot easier than fiddling with SMT resistors. I don't mind the bright blue myself.

That reminds me of a buddy of mine who was Italian, he changed the housings of all the indicators lights on the 24xx drives we had on the floor to look like the Italian flag...I guess that only works if you have three LEDs and you come from a country with a 3 colored-flag. It would be kind of a very cool mod if you have any national/ethnic pride whatever.

ironcoder · « **Reply #11 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 06:41:21 »

Yeah, right after he deposits 1,000,000,000,000 billion dollars in your account for helping him deal with the estate of his dearly-departed father, the tribal chief, who was cruelly murdered by rebel factions...

wellington1869 · « **Reply #12 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 11:35:18 »

Quote from: ripster;98557

Where's Welly at - another one for the Unicomp guys. Red, White and Blue LEDs.
:usa::usa: :usa::usa::usa::usa: :usa::usa:
:usa::usa: :usa::usa::usa::usa: :usa::usa:
:usa::usa: :usa::usa::usa::usa: :usa::usa:
:usa::usa: :usa::usa::usa::usa: :usa::usa:

lol. I'm at the moment temporarily taking it easy on unicomp as I complete my transaction with jim owens for a spare set of M keys

*****ing will resume after transaction is complete

talis · « **Reply #13 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 11:47:04 »

Quote from: ripster;98496

Show Image

I'm not sure which resistors lead to the LEDs but I do know I don't want to desolder those. This board is as long as my thumb.

Looks like R8 and R9 (top left corner) are the right ones. 102 would indicate 1K Ohm, and based on the scale I'd guess either 0805 or 0603 (probably 0805) which aren't too hard to solder/desolder.

majestouch · « **Reply #14 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 12:37:56 »

Quote from: talis;98590

Looks like R8 and R9 (top left corner) are the right ones. 102 would indicate 1K Ohm, and based on the scale I'd guess either 0805 or 0603 (probably 0805) which aren't too hard to solder/desolder.

Yes, seems correct, however..."too hard" is relative. Unless you have good tools, SMD is a headache. Besides, under-biasing clear package LEDs, such as the blue LEDs used on the Cherry Brown equipped boards, never really has good results, they just end up looking dim and gray. I think I'd recommend just swapping the clear blue LEDs for diffused blue LEDs if it is the brightness you're aiming to "fix," the bias requirement therefore wouldn't change. Changing the resistor would only necessary for changing colors.

talis · « **Reply #15 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 13:22:32 »

Quote from: majestouch;98608

Yes, seems correct, however..."too hard" is relative. Unless you have good tools, SMD is a headache.

0805 pitch SMT is fairly easy to desolder, even with a line iron. You need to use the edge of your iron and heat both sides at the same time, while applying a small amount of side pressure to slide the component off the pads. After that a quick cleanup with some solder wick and you're ready to go.

Changing the LED out does give you a lot more options tho (other then the normal red/green/blue/yellow):

-Pink
-Purple
-Turquoise
-Orange

The thing to be very careful about is the controller chip can only source 2mA on any pin. If you do choose to change the LED and resistor, make sure that the total current draw doesn't exceed 2mA.

I guess I should add, you can calculate the current (or the resistor you need) with the following :

R = (5v-V_forward)/2mA

The V_forward or forward voltage is LED dependent, and is listed on the datasheet.

huha · « **Reply #16 on:** Tue, 23 June 2009, 16:44:20 »

Quote from: ripster;98625

Huha - are the photos OK? I wanna put this sucker back together.

Yes, they're excellent.

-huha

TheSoulhunter · « **Reply #17 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 13:24:02 »

Butter knife...

I made a dedicated tool to crack Filco boards, better than anything else I tried:

Just a quick sketch, please ignore that its probably not norm conform!

Note:
Measures are in mm (millimeters)
Material has to be something that doesnt deform plastically so easily, tool or spring -steel should work

wellington1869 · « **Reply #18 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 13:27:50 »

need more deets - whats it made from? and how much are you going to sell them for?

itlnstln · « **Reply #19 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 13:50:17 »

Quote from: ripster;118789

If he sells them they better come with an OK sticker.

Or a "K.O." sticker, apparently. That one must have been used by Muhammed Ali.

TheSoulhunter · « **Reply #20 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 14:21:53 »

Quote from: wellington1869;118787

need more deets - whats it made from?

I made it from one of my GFs nail-files (hope she doesn't read this) as we don't have spring steel sheets at work.
In theory, every sheet material that doesn't break or permanently deforms from bending should work...
But thinking about it, simply buying a nail-file is probably cheaper and less complicated, heh!? ^^;

maxlugar · « **Reply #21 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 14:47:06 »

Quote from: ripster;118815

Dude - complete honesty is required in a relationship. You better fess up.

Well, maybe not complete honesty...for most of us, that would cause more problems than it's worth. :evil:

On the other hand, you rip, are a paragon of virtue and something that we can only aspire to be :angel:

maxlugar · « **Reply #22 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 14:52:47 »

Quote from: TheSoulhunter;118811

I made it from one of my GFs nail-files (hope she doesn't read this) as we don't have spring steel sheets at work.
^^;

If my girlfriend read geekhack posts, I would find a new girlfriend.

I work for a software development company and there is a definite negative correlation between technical aptitude and attractiveness (at least on that side of the gender).

maxlugar · « **Reply #23 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 15:04:48 »

Quote from: ripster;118826

I'm no paragon of virture. When my wife isn't looking I make Goodwill runs to get rid of her junk clogging up the attic.

Living on the edge.

Just the opposite at my house. It's my junk clogging up the attic, closets, garage, etc. She considers my dozens of vintage keyboards to be junk.

My wife doesn't make Goodwill runs; it's a lot shorter run to the garbage can or recycle bin

Edit: What she doesn't know is how close she is to living on the edge if one of my PC AT 84-key keyboards was to ever disappear.

TheSoulhunter · « **Reply #24 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 15:16:56 »

Quote from: maxlugar;118825

If my girlfriend read geekhack posts, I would find a new girlfriend.

I work for a software development company and there is a definite negative correlation between technical aptitude and attractiveness (at least on that side of the gender).

"Hot but dumb" -vs- "Ugly but smart"?

Well, attractiveness lasts only a decade or two, but good conversations and sharing hobbys/interests is something that will make you also happy in 30, 40 or 50 years...
In my opinion its good to shoot for the middle, if you cant have both (smartness + attractiveness) that is!

maxlugar · « **Reply #25 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 15:24:18 »

Quote from: ripster;118836

Show Image

Yes, those are keys on the floor from the Dharavi recycling center, Mumbai, home of Slumdog Millionairre.

Hey, I could use some of those on my Northgate. Hopefully their double shot molded. Whaddya think my chances are of having those guys cut me a smokin' deal?

maxlugar · « **Reply #26 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 15:30:10 »

Quote from: TheSoulhunter;118837

"Hot but dumb" -vs- "Ugly but smart"?

Well, attractiveness lasts only a decade or two, but good conversations and sharing hobbys/interests is something that will make you also happy in 30, 40 or 50 years...
In my opinion its good to shoot for the middle, if you cant have both (smartness + attractiveness) that is!

Well, I guess that makes me the shallowest member of the geekhack community. 30, 40, or 50 years??? Hell, you gotta start planning for the first "trade-up" after 15 or 20 years.

After making that comment, I hope and pray that my wife doesn't read geekhack posts. Nah, she's too busy taking care of a 15 month old.

maxlugar · « **Reply #27 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 15:31:57 »

Quote from: ripster;118840

Boy, she BETTER not read this.

To what are you referring rip?

rdjack21 · « **Reply #28 on:** Thu, 17 September 2009, 16:10:52 »

Quote from: TheSoulhunter;118837

"Hot but dumb" -vs- "Ugly but smart"?

Well, attractiveness lasts only a decade or two, but good conversations and sharing hobbys/interests is something that will make you also happy in 30, 40 or 50 years...
In my opinion its good to shoot for the middle, if you cant have both (smartness + attractiveness) that is!

LOL. I got lucky I ended up with both. So keep looking they are out there but are hard to find.

kohan69 · « **Reply #29 on:** Sat, 20 November 2010, 02:23:56 »

is there an easier way to clean it?

CeeSA · « **Reply #30 on:** Mon, 06 December 2010, 14:47:45 »

it is possible to change switches? i did not find the right tutorial here....
thanks for helping

itlnstln · « **Reply #31 on:** Mon, 06 December 2010, 14:50:19 »

You would have to desolder all the switches since the Filco is plate-mounted. PCB-mounted Cherry switches can be taken apart to replace the stem, spring, etc. since there is no plate in the way. That's not to say that taking apart all the switches would be faster, though.

Spinifex · « **Reply #32 on:** Thu, 03 March 2011, 01:08:26 »

Anyone know how to replace the USB lead for a PS connection? I want to use a PS connection, without the adaptor, instead of USB. It should be easy considering the plug being used in the board. But a PS connection has 6 wires I think, whilst USB only has 4....

Don't ask why, I just got a bee in my bonnet about the USB connection and cable.

Spinifex · « **Reply #33 on:** Thu, 03 March 2011, 01:20:10 »

Quote from: ripster;304009

You picked the wrong OP then.

USB Rulez!

I'll give you a hint though. A multimeter is worth it's weight in gold USB connectors.

Orrrrr... that's not the answer I was hoping for....

Yeah, everyone is converting their old boards to USB, and I was wanting to convert a new board to PS/2.... what gives with that...?

But, can it be done?

victheslik · « **Reply #34 on:** Thu, 17 March 2011, 09:52:57 »

Out of curiosity... is it possible to remove the plate all together? Which inadvertently creates a directly pcb moutned keyboard?

n19htmare · « **Reply #35 on:** Sun, 17 April 2011, 22:41:05 »

Quote from: victheslik;313262

Out of curiosity... is it possible to remove the plate all together? Which inadvertently creates a directly pcb moutned keyboard?

Why would you want to do that? The plate serves a crucial part in the build and use of a mechanical keyboard.

Directly soldered switches may (likely will) shift around, be flimsy and more then likely fail. There are so many reasons to NOT remove the plate, But I'm curious as to why remove the plate?

alaricljs · « **Reply #36 on:** Wed, 20 April 2011, 20:28:06 »

Wow, it's even tighter inside this keyboard than it looks in your pictures.

alaricljs · « **Reply #37 on:** Thu, 21 April 2011, 00:47:01 »

Quote from: ripster;334617

Not a lot of room. I was thinking of sticking that rug rubber mat/shelf liner stuff under it like on the Korean aluminum keyboard.

Is there room for that?

1 Layer of the shelf type should fit, some of it will be fully compressed in spots. There are pockets made in the bottom tray that you could put pieces in. Honestly the way this thing sounds with no top, the only thing you need to do is stuff the top cover with dead weight. The bottom half is very 'dead' it's just the key and plate sounds with no resonance.

oneproduct · « **Reply #38 on:** Mon, 26 September 2011, 22:17:37 »

Is it just me or are most of the pictures broken now?

JustCallMeCrash · « **Reply #39 on:** Thu, 29 September 2011, 14:03:45 »

Does anyone happen to have a CAD render of the plate? I have access to a laser fabricator, but I need some idea how a mounting plate should look without any switches. I don't really want to tear apart my DAS and my CAD skills are nominal at best. I have the PCB from martinmeijerink's mod (the wireless filco where he put together his own matrix) and can fab out a bottom and mount plate, but I need some plans. I'm planning to make this a travel board with a hinged cover (removable) and a detachable cable. I'm doing mini-usb since I have a metric****ton of mini-usb cables laying around from the various phones I've had that used that standard (now all obsolete thanks to micro-usb). I'm getting this part for the connector: musb

JustCallMeCrash · « **Reply #40 on:** Thu, 29 September 2011, 15:21:00 »

Hey, Ripster, do you happen to have even a good picture of the plate? I'm unsure what it should look like... I like the side-shot on page 1, that helps. Even with the switches still on the board.
I'll probably need some guidance when it comes time to do the stabilizers, too.

EDIT: Found one here
I Googled it... that's where it took me. Don't judge me!

alaricljs · « **Reply #41 on:** Thu, 29 September 2011, 15:46:52 »

This wiki has a custom mounting plate that was cut for a Filco 104key case. There are images of both Costar and Cherry stabilizers installed to different plates. There are also instructions and tools in this wiki to produce a plate.

However, to answer your question directly about how a Filco 87key plate is held, there are flanges on the plate, at the F-key edge and Mod-key edge of the plate. These rest on edges in the case bottom. There are also 2 posts in the bottom case half that meet with the bottom side of the plate. These holes are located centered between F1, F2, 2 and 3 and also F12, PrtScr, Backspace and Insert. Screws directly hold the plate onto these 2 pegs. Also, the top half of the case rests directly on the plate and once the case has been snapped together holds the plate.

JustCallMeCrash · « **Reply #42 on:** Thu, 29 September 2011, 16:15:01 »

alaricljs - You win most helpful on this! Thanks.

litster · « **Reply #43 on:** Wed, 29 February 2012, 23:47:27 »

Just posted a video to demonstrate how to open up a Filco.

[video=youtube;AfPaC8Hvczo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfPaC8Hvczo[/video]

litster · « **Reply #44 on:** Fri, 06 April 2012, 14:22:15 »

ripster, add my video to your wiki, will you?

longweight · « **Reply #45 on:** Sun, 29 April 2012, 11:28:30 »

Great video litster. Does anyone have any experience with having the case painted? What is the best method?

litster · « **Reply #46 on:** Sun, 29 April 2012, 11:54:04 »

Quote from: ripster;585602

No.

No problem. I moved it to a separate wiki. Here is the new link

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:30884&redirect=no

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Author Topic: Ripster's Guide to Opening Your Filco And What You'lll See (Gen1) (Read 127837 times)