There's another interesting thread here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86751.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=86751.0) by samwisekoi.It's my first combo board on this scale but I've tinkered with it on a smaller scale. I'm optimistic that I can make something work here... even if I make to make some compromises.
He's built one 122 key keyboard PCB, and is working on another. Doesn't have your fancy case, but there's a lot of discussion about getting Alps and MX on the same PCB. I suspect well worth the read if this is your first combo board.
As I recall there are a number of limitations & compromises that needed to be done.
If you use input club's universal Alps/MX footprint, we can unoffically hotswap alps switches without installing sockets etc. This could be very appealing to those trying alps out for the first time as if they don't like them they can be removed and Cherry switches can be soldered back in.That's unofficially/officially the plan unless I have to change things later on down the line. I don't see why I would have to switch footprints but, in case I do, I'm not going to make any promises. Expect a barebones PCB soonish.
What is the angle for this case going to be?Right now it is at 9.1° but this is just a mock-up so it can still be changed. I know most boards are in the 8-10° range (with Duck's being at 11°, IIRC) so I aimed to be smack in the middle. After all, the middle is a nice place to be. What would you [guys] prefer?
Right now it is at 9.1° but this is just a mock-up so it can still be changed. I know most boards are in the 8-10° range (with Duck's being at 11°, IIRC) so I aimed to be smack in the middle. After all, the middle is a nice place to be. What would you [guys] prefer?
Right now it is at 9.1° but this is just a mock-up so it can still be changed. I know most boards are in the 8-10° range (with Duck's being at 11°, IIRC) so I aimed to be smack in the middle. After all, the middle is a nice place to be. What would you [guys] prefer?
7-8° would be really nice. HHKB is somewhere around 7,5-8°, definitely over 7, as I've put it next to a board with 7° and the 7° one had visibly less angle.Interesting, I would be OK with trying to imitate the angle of the HHKB. Throughout my keyboarding experiences, I have owned three HHKBs and found their typing angle to be pleasant. Would anyone be able to provide a more exact measurement of the HHKB's angle for me? I would measure it myself but, lo, I sold my last one a while ago. Google didn't turn anything up either :p
The angle is nice, but seems kinda high, no? Maybe it's just the way the render shows the side profile.For reference, it's about 3mm taller than an RS96 at the moment. I'm planning on cutting it down a smidge to bring it closer to the Redscarf.
Any idea what firmware you will be using? Specifically, will it support programability for Mac special keys/media/sleep etc...?I'll likely be using a fork of QMK or TMK, I believe both support Mac's special/media/sleep keys but you may correct me there.
Whadd'ya think, guys?
Bit hard to judge without seeing some other angles like the back, back/side diagonal, and underneath. But I do like what I see.Just added additional angles to the first post :thumb:
whats that bottom part used for? Just wondering as you can't really see it, nor does it look like something can fit there.It's for a weight. The weight fits in the bottom and screws in through the top. The acrylic is covering up the screw holes for it in the renders but, if you look closely, you can kind of see them. Here is a rendering of the weight itself:
What's the plans for bumpons or feet and such?Tentatively planning on rubber feet, if you look at the rendering of the old case (http://imgur.com/lkwEV75) you can see there were places for them to attach. I just haven't had a chance to add them back to the new design yet. It will kind of be like the Duck Viper (http://i.imgur.com/PNJBoM0.jpg) in this regard. I also need to figure out whether or not the reset button will be externally accessible and, if so, how it will. I am leaning towards having a software-based solution a la the Redscarf boards, though (hold down a certain key while plugging it in to enter reprogramming mode).
You might want to rethink your strategy for placing the Teensy over switch holes in the PCB. Your current design makes it very difficult (impossible?) to solder either the Teensy or the switches on the reverse side, which ever gets installed second. Also the center mounting peg on the switches continues through the PCB for about a millimeter on the other side so keep that in mind -- you can get around this by using the included spacers on the Teensy but you'd have to incorporate that in your design pretty early.Thanks for the tip but, fret not, I wholly intend to switch to a SMD mounted MCU in the near future. This PCB revision is exclusively for my testing purposes, haha. Nevertheless, having played around with a Let's Split (https://gist.github.com/nicinabox/3582fc89470a3f4efc9ed194f12fabfb), I'm optimistic that I'll be able to get the Teensy on there, one way or another.
Nice. That is definitely the way to go.For sure, especially on a kit with a $400-450 price tag. Nothing but the best for you guys, haha.
I noticed your acrylic(?) spacer -- awesome. What are your plans for lighting?Yes, it will likely be some sort of frosted acrylic. I am planning on using RGB underlighting a la the ZZ96/RS96. As for switch lighting support, I am planning to support MX but that is not guaranteed at the moment. There are a few things I have to figure out first. I would love to support Alps but that seems pretty unlikely, I will look into it, though.
Well since many of us probably won't get to be part of the Lightsaver V3 buy you can probably expect a decent level of interest for this board. Not that your design isn't as appealing as Lightsaver, just that it's the de facto standard for 96-key boards at the moment. :DThere's a reason I am starting this now, haha. Ideally, I will be able to capture some of the interest in the Lightsaver and channel it into this. That and now that I have a reasonably flexible Alps keyset (or, rather, I soon will), I want a board to put it on that'll make it shine.
Bit hard to judge without seeing some other angles like the back, back/side diagonal, and underneath. But I do like what I see.Just added additional angles to the first post :thumb:
Lips are not fat enough, need more bezels in my life. Let's set it apart even more with more bezels.When does more bezels become too much bezels? The Model F? I've honestly considered adding a bit more bezel to the top and bottom to give it a look closer to the Model F (a cutout on the bottom and the extruded bar on the top) but I thought it would be going too far. I think most people prefer skinnier bezels but I really don't know :p
Lips are not fat enough, need more bezels in my life. Let's set it apart even more with more bezels.When does more bezels become too much bezels? The Model F? I've honestly considered adding a bit more bezel to the top and bottom to give it a look closer to the Model F (a cutout on the bottom and the extruded bar on the top) but I thought it would be going too far. I think most people prefer skinnier bezels but I really don't know :p
Lips are not fat enough, need more bezels in my life. Let's set it apart even more with more bezels.When does more bezels become too much bezels? The Model F? I've honestly considered adding a bit more bezel to the top and bottom to give it a look closer to the Model F (a cutout on the bottom and the extruded bar on the top) but I thought it would be going too far. I think most people prefer skinnier bezels but I really don't know :p
It's mostly for my own selfish reason :-XAh, OK. Wellll this board doesn't exactly support AEK keycaps so you'd kind of be out of luck there. Namely because of the wonky rotated F keys that Apple boards tote.
The Monarch has massive bezels and it is glorious. I also like to tramp stamp my board with a little vintage Apple logo, so I need that fat bezels
While you are at it you can also make it top mount ;) :thumb:Top Mount... how so? I would call this current revision "top mounting" since the plate/pcb go into the top and not through the bottom. Unless you meant having a separate top that mounts over an extended portion of the plate?
While you are at it you can also make it top mount ;) :thumb:Top Mount... how so? I would call this current revision "top mounting" since the plate/pcb go into the top and not through the bottom. Unless you meant having a separate top that mounts over an extended portion of the plate?
Ah, well if I just make the standoffs a bit taller and holes in the PCB a bit larger, I should be able to do it 😀While you are at it you can also make it top mount ;) :thumb:Top Mount... how so? I would call this current revision "top mounting" since the plate/pcb go into the top and not through the bottom. Unless you meant having a separate top that mounts over an extended portion of the plate?
I mean the plate mounting into the case instead of the PCB mounting into the case (which is called tray mounted). It's the way all the big customs are made, and imo feels a lot nicer.
Ah, well if I just make the standoffs a bit taller and holes in the PCB a bit larger, I should be able to do it 😀While you are at it you can also make it top mount ;) :thumb:Top Mount... how so? I would call this current revision "top mounting" since the plate/pcb go into the top and not through the bottom. Unless you meant having a separate top that mounts over an extended portion of the plate?
I mean the plate mounting into the case instead of the PCB mounting into the case (which is called tray mounted). It's the way all the big customs are made, and imo feels a lot nicer.
THESE WERE EXPERIMENTAL RENDERS, PLEASE IGNORE.
Alright, so I was working on the concept for a top-mounting plate and here's what I've come up with so far:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/6AP4ds1.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DgrJLQR.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pf1ty49.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pm0NJu7.png)
And a render from the top with the switch mounts cut:MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/WLKQGNF.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Mgmajoo.png)
(Yes, I know the stabilizers are wrong for Alps. This is just a test plate)
I haven't gotten the measurements quite right yet, added all of the mounts to the top casing or finished the board's bottom part (it would match the current renders) but I'm just trying to test the waters with this. It has fatter bezels and the plate screws into the bottom part directly - not the PCB. The top now screws into the bottom part with screw holes along the sides, below the diffuser. Since most boards have screws on the bottom, I thought trying them on the sides would be interesting. It would be easy enough to move them to the bottom, though.
EDIT: Well, given the lack of responses, I'm definitely going back to the original design. I liked it better myself and just tried these fatter bezels, side mounted screws and the weirdly shaped plate as an experiment. Expect a thinner top-mounted plate soon.
This is the right idea, but the plate looks very odd with those oblique angles, so you should perhaps consider just straight lines and filleted corners near the screw tabsThe choice to have somewhat peculiar angles was intentional, I wanted the plate to look odd. That being said, I really have no interest in pursuing that design any further. I prefer smaller bezels and the more I think about it, the less I like the side screws.
it seems a simply 96 keyYes, it is simply a 96-key. This one is special, however, since it has Alps support (no other 96-key has supported Alps as far as I know)!
Will there be a brass weight insert and different plate color options? I wanna do a black and gold theme.Yes, there was a typo in the OP. It should have said 'brass' not 'bronze.' I have corrected it now. All of the final anodization options for the case should be available for the plate as well.
Just as an update, I ordered the Rev2 PCBs and I'm currently having the prototype fabbed. I should have an update by the end of the month.
Probably on the left side where it is now unless there's a lot of backlash around it. Right now it's between the ESC and F1 keys.Just as an update, I ordered the Rev2 PCBs and I'm currently having the prototype fabbed. I should have an update by the end of the month.
Where will the USB port be located be located on the final PCB design? I have NOS Blue Alps waiting for a new home keep up the good work!
Will the weight insert be a plate only visible when opening up the board or will it be visible through the bottom like the X60.It's visible on the bottom, the current renders show how it will appear unless things change.
Really glad to see a new alps custom layout arise. Only problem I forsee is caps for a short shift and arrow cluster. Depending on the timing and price, I'd be in for one.Well... soon we'll have DSA lightcycle and granite... which leads me into:
Was wondering will the stabilizer cutouts be compatible with MX type stabs? I think quite a few will be using it with the upcoming DSA Granite and Hyperfuse sets.Yes! Of course. That's part of why I'm doing this.
Also, will the PCB be compatible with ZZ96 or Lightsaver cases?No, it's a new design that isn't compatible with anything else (as far as I know).
Was wondering will the stabilizer cutouts be compatible with MX type stabs? I think quite a few will be using it with the upcoming DSA Granite and Hyperfuse sets.
Also, will the PCB be compatible with ZZ96 or Lightsaver cases?
Really glad to see a new alps custom layout arise. Only problem I forsee is caps for a short shift and arrow cluster. Depending on the timing and price, I'd be in for one.Well... soon we'll have DSA lightcycle and granite... which leads me into:
It would be nice to see the PCB fit in the LightSaver V1/V2 and ZZ96 cases. The new Matias PBT keycaps (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45483.msg2413969#msg2413969) will be compatible with costar and alps stabilizers so that may be something to consider?I don't own a Lightsaver or ZZ96 so I have no way to take measurements for them, haha. I'm planning to support all of the stabilizers that I can but since the Matias stabilizers won't be available for a while I don't want to count on them for this.
But.. but :-[ DSA. DSA Lightcycle was pretty pricey for full compatibility, iirc 270 for all the keys.That's fair. Well, you can always use one of the more standard layouts. Plus, you can mix and match among all of the Alps keysets, IBM 5140s and a number of TaiHao boards have a 1.75u RShift.
Any chance the PCB can be white to further accentuate the lighting through the acrylic?The prototype PCBs are, in fact, white. I would be OK with using it for the final color but my only complaints with White PCBs (in general) are that they tend to show soldering marks more clearly.
I've noticed the lighting are more evenly distributed with an white PCB versus Black one, especially, without an reflective panel.
I could see myself very interested in this board. Any updates on this at the moment?The prototype is being anodized so it should be shipped my way within a week. I'm waiting on it before ordering the next round of test PCBs to physically verify everything first. The PCBs will then take another week or so after that. So it's moving along, just a bit slower than I had hoped. Hopefully I'll have everything put together by the end of the month.
The prototype came in, here (https://imgur.com/a/gyst2) is an album with some pictures. Let me know what you guys think :)
Got a name?Going with 19//96 I think, for a few reasons. The keyboard is a 96-key keyboard. The Xerox Docutech that donated the switches to make my build feasible was built in 1996. The slashes are a reference to the top-row keys of a Xerox Docutech keyboard, since they feature similar slashes. And, finally, I was born in 1996. It fared pretty well in the polls so I think it will work :)
Damn, that prototype is sexy af.I'm curious as well
Were you able to get it manufactured in the US or did you have to get it done somewhere else?
I can dig thatGot a name?Going with 19//96 I think, for a few reasons. The keyboard is a 96-key keyboard. The Xerox Docutech that donated the switches to make my build feasible was built in 1996. The slashes are a reference to the top-row keys of a Xerox Docutech keyboard, since they feature similar slashes. And, finally, I was born in 1996. It fared pretty well in the polls so I think it will work :)
Were you able to get it manufactured in the US or did you have to get it done somewhere else?Unfortunately, I had to do it elsewhere, prototyping costs in the states are very high. Once/if I get funded (via the Group Buy), I will have prototypes fabbed in the US to test the final design, domestic producer and anodization quality.
Were you able to get it manufactured in the US or did you have to get it done somewhere else?Unfortunately, I had to do it elsewhere, prototyping costs in the states are very high. Once/if I get funded (via the Group Buy), I will have prototypes fabbed in the US to test the final design, domestic producer and anodization quality.
I can neither confirm nor deny this statement 😉Were you able to get it manufactured in the US or did you have to get it done somewhere else?Unfortunately, I had to do it elsewhere, prototyping costs in the states are very high. Once/if I get funded (via the Group Buy), I will have prototypes fabbed in the US to test the final design, domestic producer and anodization quality.
I'll just lean out of the window and guess it was EVE, wasn't it? The finish looks so similar to the Mira Prototypes.
The prototype came in, here (https://imgur.com/a/gyst2) is an album with some pictures. Let me know what you guys think :)
Any updates on a GB date?No, still trying to get some things sorted out on my end. Need to get another revision of the PCB, make some final design calls then talk to vendors to get updated quotes. Probably won't happen until mid-August.
Just checking the PCB render, it seems there's no support at all for Cherry PCB mounted stabs, is this correct? (This is especially relevant as the new SP Alps Granite kit all uses Cherry stabilisers).None of the Rev2 PCBs had Cherry PCB mounted stabs, this was largely because I wanted a quick prototype to test things with. The Rev3's will certain have them, and will likely be in the form of two PCBs, MX-only and Alps-only. This is because it is impossible to simultaneously support all of the layouts for the bottom row and the capslock key all at once. I am still trying to avoid having two PCBs, though.
Also, it seems this version of the PCB only support through hole diodes, will you consider using a combined footprint that supports both through hole and SOD123 SMD diodes (like the ones on Hasu Alps64 PCB)? I think SMD diodes are much easier to deal with than through hole.The final PCB will likely be SMD-only and will ship with SMD diodes pre-installed. The through-holes were also chosen for prototyping purposes (since I tend to find them easier to deal with, personally).
I wish the front of the case didn't have that cutout on the bottom. Makes the keyboard look squashed.Sorry to hear that. That being said, I am not even sure which cutout you are referring to, the diffuser?
This bit here: http://i.imgur.com/fN8mLHq.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/fN8mLHq.jpg)While I see where you're coming from, that is actually one of the things I like about this side profile design so I probably won't be changing it. To get rid of it reduces it to a more standard design that I'm not a really fan of (since you basically have to go to a straight cutout all the way down vs. this angled one). Thanks for your feedback, though.
The side profile of the top frame isn't a "complete" rectangle and has a wedge of material taken out of it. Makes the case look squashed IMO.
Everything else looks fantastic.
This bit here: http://i.imgur.com/fN8mLHq.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/fN8mLHq.jpg)While I see where you're coming from, that is actually one of the things I like about this side profile design so I probably won't be changing it. To get rid of it reduces it to a more standard design that I'm not a really fan of (since you basically have to go to a straight cutout all the way down vs. this angled one). Thanks for your feedback, though.
The side profile of the top frame isn't a "complete" rectangle and has a wedge of material taken out of it. Makes the case look squashed IMO.
Everything else looks fantastic.
Yo... What's the status on this?I have been busy with other things (non-hobby-related life things) recently but I plan to start working on this again soon. I have some minor tweaks to make to the PCB and research on vendors/suppliers to do but once that is all done, I will open the GB and publish my manufacturing plan/timeline. If I were to open the GB now, my focus would be split between it and other things so you guys (the customers) would only suffer for it. As such, I figure waiting until I get all of my ducks in a row is probably the better option and, therefore, the project is temporarily on "hiatus." Sorry for the delays, I was hoping to open this in mid-July but life got in the way and pushed the start date back.
This may be way too late in the process, but a split backspace 96-key would be amazing. I would be extremely interested if that could happen...The PCB has support for split backspace, the universal Cherry plate will have it but whether or not it makes it to any of the Alps variations is TBD.