I would be interested in one. It's always cool to try novel things like this out. Would be nice to have a dedicated gaming pad too, since I use such a strange layout on my main keyboard.
this is really awesome, if i had something like this id be more apt to use TKL and smaller boards. I love the 'extra' keys besides just a numpad. I know its not the intended use, but it will cut down on moving my hands around at work so much as i can map the keys i need to where i need them and it will make things much more comfortable.
this looks like a great design!
:thumb: I've been interested in this since your first post on the LH gamepad!
It's great that you're taking this into your own hands and making a custom PCB
Very nice, does it use the USB on the teensy, so it exits to the right (or left if flipped) of the PCB?
I am also interested, depending on the final cost.Me2.
I am also interested, depending on the final cost.Me2.
But do I need to built it from a pcb? I only know how to solder/desolder switch with ugly solder joint :-X
How to decide where to put a 2x key or 1x key? Could I remap all keys on the pad from a software after?
Thanks :)
interested in 2 if not too expensive. hoping to make my own matrix ergodox
I lack the skills to be a tester at this stage. Will wait for beta.
thanks sam! btw can this be flipped? meaning that if I had 2 they could be setup ergo dox style? I woukd not care if they connected with separate cables or a cable between them. but it woukd be a really cool design.
If there are enough, I would be interested in getting two of these (I'll gladly pay for my two) and attempting to get them to work together. I'm sure I can handle the hardware aspect especially since its through-hole, not sure on the software side of things. I've got diodes, LED's, resistors and a spare teensy along with other miscellaneous parts.
Two for you, and two for you, and another two for you!
Can I get at least one person to do a LH/RH version (sort of a split 60%) and at least one person to do a RH/LH version (similar to an Ergodox)?
Thanks,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Very nice, does it use the USB on the teensy, so it exits to the right (or left if flipped) of the PCB?
How are you building yours, Ray?
. Also willing to pay for it.
If it's reversible, does this mean it will be "accidentally" ALPS compatible, the way the Ergodox PCB ended up, or is it more a "rotate to reverse" instead of "flip to reverse"?
Ron, in order to have the switches on top with it "flipped like a book," won't you need to mirror the switch holes on top of themselves as well?
Also, you can always mount the Teensy upside down on the "top" with the pins in the correct locations, right?
Another suggestion I would make is to add 0806 size SMT pads for the diodes which connect via short traces to the THT diode holes, similar to how the ErgoDox has them. You could probably do the same for the resistors, as well.
What round are you interested in, damorgue?
What round are you interested in, damorgue?
Any round which works for you. I'll just have to check compatibility with my plate, I am not sure I had the 2u keys at the same positions.v Actually, I am interested even if it doesn't fit perfectly anyway.
Ron, in order to have the switches on top with it "flipped like a book," won't you need to mirror the switch holes on top of themselves as well?
Also, you can always mount the Teensy upside down on the "top" with the pins in the correct locations, right?
Another suggestion I would make is to add 0806 size SMT pads for the diodes which connect via short traces to the THT diode holes, similar to how the ErgoDox has them. You could probably do the same for the resistors, as well.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Dude how is the LED supposed to work in two hand mode?
I also would be interested to build one up (as a left-hand controller.) Just finished a LH "ErgoPad" (http://postimg.org/image/l511wnq6b/full/) and while working very nicely there's room for improvement -- this could be it. :)
I also would be interested to build one up (as a left-hand controller.) Just finished a LH "ErgoPad" (http://postimg.org/image/l511wnq6b/full/) and while working very nicely there's room for improvement -- this could be it. :)
that is sweet!
Would anyone be able to create a acrylic plate case design for these?
I would like to contact a local company to have a case made but I suck with cad :(
Well, I hope it all lines up... I guess I can test whatever configuration or something...
I'm on the case! :))
Would you be using 5mm and 3mm acrylic for the layers, like the ErgoDox cases?
Well, I hope it all lines up... I guess I can test whatever configuration or something...
Your plate should be fine. This is a 5" square PCB with 36 0.75" switch footprints centered on the board. Mounting holes are 0.125" diameter, 0.125" in from the edges and corners (on-center) plus dead center at 2.500". (I'll make a mechanical drawing.)
I have a sample PCB for just about everything except a JD40, and I'll grab one of those from Ming.
I'm interested in the beta/production round because it looks like it will be feasible to use it with ALPS switches, thanks to the mirrored holes.
Interesting project, had I not been so busy with RL, I would have loved to be a part of this. :(
Best of luck to make this a success :thumb:
I would highly recommend editing the switches holes slightly to allow for using alps switches. That would be awesome.
Sorry; won't work with Cherry, flipped Cherry, and Alps.
The flipped Cherry pads -- and their connections -- will short out the Alps switch.
(Attachment Link)
Pad positions for Cherry, flipped Cherry, and Alps switches.
Cherry: 1&2, Alps 3&4, Cherry LEDs 5&6
I can do MX+Alps or flipped MX, but not both.
- Ron | samwisekoi
To accomplish this feat, I have come up with a circuit that enables both on the same switch. If I have done this properly, installing the through-hole resistor (labeled "WASD") will enable the WASD LED circuit, but not the LED1 circuit.
Contrariwise, installing the SMD resistor (labeled "R14") will connect the LED to the LED1 circuit, and not to the WASD circuit.
Those are the two important items I would like validated by someone whose expertise extends to that space.
A third "nice to have" feature of this circuit that I believe will also work, is that installing BOTH resistors will illuminate the LED when either circuit is powered. This is less a feature than an error-accommodation side-effect.
Installing the resistors in either one of the resistor location will enable that circuit given the transistor state (Which I am assuming is connected to the uC?) however, if both are installed and both circuits are enabled then the resistance will be halved and you cold potentially damage the LED.
Regarding the LED circuit, I don't see why not, it is a simple matter of closed circuits, if only one resistor is used, then there is only one path for the current to flow, if both are used, then since the resistances are in parallel then assuming the resistance are same, it will be halved (Parallel resistors rule).
Regarding LED setups, how many available pins do you have for LEDs? Why not go for individual LED control using spare pins (If available) or a secondary I2C device.
Is it possible to make a qazpad layout with this project? I'd like a gap between the numeric pad and the extra rows.
Maybe it's time to revisit the idea of a modular keyboard with multiple inter-connectable PCB's to make the different layouts. There's already an interest check for a full size plate that can be broken apart to smaller plates just need to expand it a little. Not sure what to do for cases though.
is it too late to get involved in the proto stage?Pretty sure the prototype order has already been sent off for production. I thought about asking how much experience he wanted for prototypers but I'm not completely sure I have an extra teensy plus some other concerns about being fast enough with test results, etc.
Always down for prototyping electronics :)
Any chance to get onto that list ? I can throw together some basic firmware w/in an hour or so if need be.
Proto PCBs have shipped!
If you are on the prototypers list (see the OP), make sure you PM me your current shipping address!
Also, Mr. Mettaliqaz, sir, how and which Easy AVR version should we use at this stage?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Christmas came early this week!Looks awesome. Would love to get my hands on one when they are out of the testing phase. :thumb:
- Ron | samwisekoi
As I mentioned above, I strongly recommend the use of PCB-mount switches. They work WAY better, and snap right in with a satisfying thunk. it makes for much easier soldering, and the result is much better as well.
[...]
- Ron | samwisekoi
I have a laser cutter, so if peeps need some cheap acrylic cases/plates, get in touch.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaa111zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzvvv vza111111aaaaaaa111aaazzvvvvvvvvvvzzzzaaaaaazzzzzzzzvvvvzzaa1azvvvvvvvvvvza11111
$20.00 sent your way bro. Thanks again!
I will send more later when I can btw. I know that it is a little short of the total. but that is what I had in my paypal atm.
Prototype PCBs have been put in the mail. If you sent me your address, I sent you a pair of PCBs.Two PCBs arrived in the mail today, and I had some questions about them.
All PCBs have had the errant trace cut and then tested.Well that answers the questions. Looking at the PCBs, I was almost sure that's what occurred.
Some of the pins (the ones at the Teensy for Col7-11) were mis-labeled, so I blacked those out.
I can confirm that metalliqaz' latest version (version number unknown to me at this time) of the Easy Keymap firmware-generator works perfectly. The resulting firmware has been loaded onto the Teensy, and the keypad then tested on both Windows and Linux.I planned to do just that. We'll see if it works out or not. I also need to decide what exactly I'll be making.
Go forth and prototype!
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. I advise against mounting the Teensy upside-down on top of the keypad. However, Retro DSA works wonderfully and has all the 1x keycaps you could want.
Also, sorry about the errors. Let's get this one right before GH-122 hits fiberglass and copper!Glad I could be helpful.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Also backlighting still needs to be worked out.
Also, sorry about the errors. Let's get this one right before GH-122 hits fiberglass and copper!Glad I could be helpful.
- Ron | samwisekoi
While I wait the transistors to arrive, I think I'll wire up the power side of the LED matrix and find some standoffs (I did decide to go for the underside teensy for now, mostly because all my teensies have pins on them already from PJRC and I don't feel like desoldering them).
New mechanicals to address the issues DV has discovered.
- Ron | samwisekoi
All the passives are silkscreened on the bottom side only.I meant that in many places you can put them on the top (they don't interfere with the MX switches). I prefer this style, so I can have a proper component side and solder side.
But where do they interfere with the stabs? I tried to keep clear of all keep-away zones.
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. The space at the top could also be for a gap between rows. Also, if you turn the PCB, those 1.50 keys can be on the outside edges of a two-PCB split keyboard.
All the passives are silkscreened on the bottom side only.I meant that in many places you can put them on the top (they don't interfere with the MX switches). I prefer this style, so I can have a proper component side and solder side.
But where do they interfere with the stabs? I tried to keep clear of all keep-away zones.
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. The space at the top could also be for a gap between rows. Also, if you turn the PCB, those 1.50 keys can be on the outside edges of a two-PCB split keyboard.
I'd just hate for a novice DIYer to start soldering components down and then realize he has to desolder them all.
Looking at the new image, I don't see any place where they interfere with the stabilizers, provide you solder them on the correct side.
Was it me, the PCB or the firmware?
I've got my first fully-assembled GH36 built. No matter which version of Easy Keymapper I use, R5C3 doesn't work. I programmed it as an X, just under the S (R4C3) of my WASD cluster.
1. When I press X I get nothing. (Press and release, press and hold, anything.)
2. When I press and hold S, I get nothing.
3. When I release the S key, there is a pause, then a string of repeating XXXXXXXXXXXXXX until I hit Escape (on the GH36 or my keyboard.)
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I've tested the switch, jumped the positions, checked continuity to the pins, jumped the pins, everything I can think of.
So is it me? Did I mess something up or damage something? Is it the PCB? The one I used or the design? Is it the firmware? Is there some bug?
Everything else works great. Has anyone else gotten this far?
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. I am using 20140827 and 20140902. GH36, single pad option.
Thanks DV!
Fix implemented and confirmed to solve the problem. Two cuts and one easy jump are required. I'll document them further in a later post.
(At work now.)
- Ron | samwisekoi
This morning I realized I could have just jumped it to the unused R5 pad on the next column.
But what I did worked great. The shorter jump would have been prettier.
In other news, I took the time to update the layout with fixes for ALL the issues found so far. That is done, and I am now running LED traces to all the switches from Q1 (formerly NUM). When that is done it will be PROTO_2.if you post a picture I'll look at it! This sounds like a great layout already.
Revision of PROTO_1. Officially v.140808c3 UNRELEASED.
300% of actual size of 5" x 5".
- Ron | samwisekoi
Yes. I hate those little legs. 2.54mm apart they shall be!That's almost like 1/10".
Yes. I hate those little legs. 2.54mm apart they shall be!That's almost like 1/10".
I recall hearing that in the Cold War era, Western electronics were built with 0.1 inch pin spacing, but Soviet ones were built with 2.5mm spacing. I wonder if after the markets opened up, you had a bunch of people very delicately bending pins to try to force imported parts to fit.
Well, while we're off in the weeds, I think the specification for Cherry MX key spacing is physically 0.750" (Imperial) but it is listed as 19.05mm, and people who use the metric measurements have slight problems over long keyswitch runs.
<References available somewhere in the vastness of geekhack.org.>
- Ron | samwisekoi
Smwisekoi
May I ask if it is possible to add new keys to this keyboard by adding hand wired modules?
You see, 6x6 isn't exactly what I want. But it is close. I basically want to add thumb keys and extra function keys, so I am looking at this from the ebay seller wonderco:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-White-Keyboard-2x5-keys-10-keys-Metal-Panel-/130303141925?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item1e56ac2825
Am thinking of getting two GH36s, then adding 20 keys per side to get a total of 112 for my matrix layout ergodox. I'll have to hand wire the extra modules of course.
Do you think it is possible to add the 20 keys on each side to the teensy controller, or am I supposed to get even more teensies to handle the extra keys? i think running my setup on 4 teensies would be both expensive and awkward.
Smwisekoi
May I ask if it is possible to add new keys to this keyboard by adding hand wired modules?
You see, 6x6 isn't exactly what I want. But it is close. I basically want to add thumb keys and extra function keys, so I am looking at this from the ebay seller wonderco:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-White-Keyboard-2x5-keys-10-keys-Metal-Panel-/130303141925?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item1e56ac2825
Am thinking of getting two GH36s, then adding 20 keys per side to get a total of 112 for my matrix layout ergodox. I'll have to hand wire the extra modules of course.
Do you think it is possible to add the 20 keys on each side to the teensy controller, or am I supposed to get even more teensies to handle the extra keys? i think running my setup on 4 teensies would be both expensive and awkward.
You would just need to wire it up in a matrix and connect the columns and rows to the appropriate expansion pins on the side of the GH36 PCB. You would be limited by the number of rows and columns supported by the controller, which in this case is 6 rows and 12 columns.
Smwisekoi
May I ask if it is possible to add new keys to this keyboard by adding hand wired modules?
You see, 6x6 isn't exactly what I want. But it is close. I basically want to add thumb keys and extra function keys, so I am looking at this from the ebay seller wonderco:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-White-Keyboard-2x5-keys-10-keys-Metal-Panel-/130303141925?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item1e56ac2825
Am thinking of getting two GH36s, then adding 20 keys per side to get a total of 112 for my matrix layout ergodox. I'll have to hand wire the extra modules of course.
Do you think it is possible to add the 20 keys on each side to the teensy controller, or am I supposed to get even more teensies to handle the extra keys? i think running my setup on 4 teensies would be both expensive and awkward.
You would just need to wire it up in a matrix and connect the columns and rows to the appropriate expansion pins on the side of the GH36 PCB. You would be limited by the number of rows and columns supported by the controller, which in this case is 6 rows and 12 columns.
This sounds good. So I will need 1 teensy 2.0 per side and a total of 2 free usb ports on my computer right? I might just buy from the ebay seller first to prepare.
Hmmm. Looking at that circuit after a few days away, it seems like the CAPS LED should possibly be on the other edge of the PCB, so that it is in the correct spot when the PCB is reversed.
Anyone have thoughts on that? Prototypers?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Hmmm. Looking at that circuit after a few days away, it seems like the CAPS LED should possibly be on the other edge of the PCB, so that it is in the correct spot when the PCB is reversed.
Anyone have thoughts on that? Prototypers?
- Ron | samwisekoi
I think it's most important for it to be in the correct spot for the split KB case,
But I don't use lock lights, so I plan to just wire it to the LED matrix, were I to get one.
if all of the leds are part of a matrix we canbdeside individual functionality however we want right?Not as configured.
Been wanting to make a hitbox for fighting games thats almost small enough to have in your pocket, would it be possible to make a custom layout like a "hitbox"?
Something like this:Show Image(http://media.psnstores.com/images/layout.jpg)
Im playing on PC so it dose not matter really what PCB thats being used. Only need 12 buttons + what ever for lighting :)
Been wanting to make a hitbox for fighting games thats almost small enough to have in your pocket, would it be possible to make a custom layout like a "hitbox"?
Something like this:Show Image(http://media.psnstores.com/images/layout.jpg)
Im playing on PC so it dose not matter really what PCB thats being used. Only need 12 buttons + what ever for lighting :)
The grid is square, so other than the stagger, yes. Also it can only be six columns wide.
Is that for two hands?
- Ron | samwisekoi
So Im interested in one but cant seem to find a price anywhere, or what services offered. How much would I have to spend to get a pad?
I haven't really thought about it until now, but won't GH36x2 require two Teensies? and each of them won't know about active layers on the other one?
Several of the GH36 prototypers said they would be building split keyboards, but I have not seen any progress from them yet.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Using the $20 cost for the PCB, you would have to gather the following:
$20 PCB
$5 diodes and resistors
$20 Teensy controller
$30 so far.
I also am mid move. I was planning to use 2 teensy's and have the sides independent. is that an ok test?
Using the $20 cost for the PCB, you would have to gather the following:
$20 PCB
$5 diodes and resistors
$20 Teensy controller
$30 so far.
That's $45, not $30.
However, would you recommend it if i wanted to use it as an alternative to Ergodox (for both hands)? I mean not using it for gaming but for typing?Well, this should be cheaper and easier to source (especially keycaps), with support for backlighting (noone makes backlit ErgoDox PCBs, although I think they do exist), but somewhat less ergonomic: no vertical staggering (not a big deal for me, perhaps I'd consider a layout modification like Q-to-1, A-to-Q, Z-A, Z on the modifier row) and no thumb clusters (again, I don't think it's the end of the world, because ErgoDox thumb clusters aren't tented anyway, and their outer keys are hard to reach for most people).
Thanks Davkol! Is vertical staggering really proved to be more ergonomic than matrix in theory?
This configuration really looks perfect Samwisekoi !!!
I think it's a great idea to have swapped F keys on default layer and i love Fn2 Layer.
Have you tried to swap Enter and Shift for the right hand on default layer? Did it feel too weird?
I'd really like to experiment with assigning backspace to the right space as i realized i only use my left hand to hit space on my keyboard.
I'm a bit confuse however as to why there is no AltGr key on the right keypad, i mean i can see it's because of the right shift taking two keys slots but for me it's a key that is really needed.
Anyway i can't wait to get my hands on it !!!
why not just combine them in a single Fn layer?
I really like it, simple and classy.
I know you might not be able to answer this but, do you have a rough idea as to when you'll be able to start taking orders for final PCB and if you'll ship internationally?
Does this case have any mounting or does the PCB just sit in it?
Also, I should be able to get my board built up soon. I think I might go for the split hand version and see how that goes. :thumb:
Does this case have any mounting or does the PCB just sit in it?
Also, I should be able to get my board built up soon. I think I might go for the split hand version and see how that goes. :thumb:
There are mount points, but I was not comfortable with molding the holes yet. So using it requires marking, drilling and tapping four holes for 6/32 or 3mm screws.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Ok, I have designed a case for 3D printing and uploaded it to Shapeways:
Shapeways: GH36 Wedge Case v.1 (PROTO) (http://shpws.me/w0Xy)
This is to fit the PROTO_1 PCB, I will adapt it for Beta and Prod PCBs.
(Attachment Link)
$51 in white plastic. $297 in gold-plated steel. Source file is available for download.
- Ron | samwisekoi
the item says not for sale?
Revised case design coming soon.
- Ron | samwisekoi
the item says not for sale?
My guess would be possibly been removed due to:Revised case design coming soon.
- Ron | samwisekoi
has anyone besides dorkvader and sam built their's yes? I feel bad because I am still moving and haven't had time to start yet.
So my "better case" was indeed better, but it also was much more expensive to 3D print. So I have ordered one of the v.1 prototypes in the cheapest, fastest material: unpolished white plastic. It is due around 10/04, and after I verify it works I will open it up for ordering again.
However, the design file is available for download if you want to print it yourself. And if anyone wants to buy one before I get mine, I can open it up for sale upon request.
Shapeways pricing is weird, and I'll have to grok it so I can optimize designs for their pricing.
- Ron | samwisekoi
So my "better case" was indeed better, but it also was much more expensive to 3D print. So I have ordered one of the v.1 prototypes in the cheapest, fastest material: unpolished white plastic. It is due around 10/04, and after I verify it works I will open it up for ordering again.
However, the design file is available for download if you want to print it yourself. And if anyone wants to buy one before I get mine, I can open it up for sale upon request.
Shapeways pricing is weird, and I'll have to grok it so I can optimize designs for their pricing.
- Ron | samwisekoi
later when a more final version is created maybe I could make a mold of the case. resin casting should be drastically cheaper.
Ok, I have designed a case for 3D printing and uploaded it to Shapeways:
Shapeways: GH36 Wedge Case v.1 (PROTO) (http://shpws.me/w0Xy)
This is to fit the PROTO_1 PCB, I will adapt it for Beta and Prod PCBs.
(Attachment Link)
$51 in white plastic. $297 in gold-plated steel. Source file is available for download.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Ok, I have designed a case for 3D printing and uploaded it to Shapeways:
Shapeways: GH36 Wedge Case v.1 (PROTO) (http://shpws.me/w0Xy)
This is to fit the PROTO_1 PCB, I will adapt it for Beta and Prod PCBs.
(Attachment Link)
$51 in white plastic. $297 in gold-plated steel. Source file is available for download.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Gold plated steel?
Seriously, the hardcore geekhackers!
I nominate white plastic of the classic Model F XT kind. Solid, clean, strong, cheap, very classic looking and also easily painted.
Wow I am getting some big time reality check here.
5x5 inches of plastic at $80.
that means an F XT has like $300 of plastic. I guess with oil prices at $100/barrel plastic prices are never going down.
I like the GH122 and will buy it. I really hope it can fit the standard, currently nearly worthless Model M 122 casing. Even if you made 1000 GH122s I think we can easily find enough M122s. But $80 for a casing for the GH36 seems extreme. I really hope other geekhackers will quickly step in with better options.
So my "better case" was indeed better, but it also was much more expensive to 3D print. So I have ordered one of the v.1 prototypes in the cheapest, fastest material: unpolished white plastic. It is due around 10/04, and after I verify it works I will open it up for ordering again.
However, the design file is available for download if you want to print it yourself. And if anyone wants to buy one before I get mine, I can open it up for sale upon request.
Shapeways pricing is weird, and I'll have to grok it so I can optimize designs for their pricing.
- Ron | samwisekoi
later when a more final version is created maybe I could make a mold of the case. resin casting should be drastically cheaper.
I am very interested in this, particularly for the too-large-to-3D-print GH-122 case. That will be the same shape, except scaled up to 9" x 21".
Can you expand on your comment, please?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Does that means that we have to order the whole package? I mean it will not be be possible to just order the PCBs?
I 'm asking because i was planning on building my own cases.
Thank you for answering samwisekoi.
Omg they look so sexy !!!!! Can't have enough pictures of those!!!
EDIT: Out of curiosity is there a particular reason why you put the connectors for the cables (that join the two pads) on the sides and not on top?
RonThat would be immensely helpful, if not for this project, it will be for a future one, you can make a separate thread if Ron wants to keep the clutter out of this thread.
if you need detailed photos of my Tipro let me know. I am not sure why, but it really feels incredibly strong. I think the most important thing is it is not held by tabs like Ducky/ Filco, but screwed together with metal backplate and many screws.
A simple sheet metal backplate with holes for screws, and thick plastic sheets for walls, are going to be cheaper than getting anything moulded or 3D printed. The problem is that the modular design needs to be done properly. I am happy to do my part but only have basic Tipro+credit card reader as examples.
HOW DID I MISS THIS D: !!!!!!! well actually i know why i missed this, I've been purposely avoiding new geekhack threads :/
any way i could get in on this still somehow in some way once you have it ready? (2 PCB) (really all i can offer is a testing and some money).
Im a big ErgoDox fan, one of the longest and hardcore users of it, but I'm also a geekhacker and would like to try a different matrix split keyboard.
The current status of the PCB is that AFAIK, I am the only person to finish a Prototype build. I've built three; a single LH gaming keypad and a GH36x2 split keyboard. I am using the input from the Proto builds to refine the design for the Beta PCB. That will fix the existing errors and add new features like full LED backlighting.
Experienced makers can have as many Beta PCBs as they want at my cost.
Once the beta builds prove the design, I'll do a GB for the PCBs.
In parallel with the above I am designing a low-cost case for both the GH36 and the much larger GH-122. You can follow most progress on that in the GH-122 thread. The current status is that Shapeways has made a 3D-printed case for a single GH36 that should arrive next week. Today I have finalized a modular design that will use laser-cut Acrylic or metal. I am going to get a pair of those cut and assemble them for the Proto GH36x2 split keyboard I made.
I have no more Prototype PCBs, and the ordering of Beta boards is weeks away, depending mostly on completion of Proto builds and feedback from their builders.
Best regards,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Ron, I am salivating at the GH36. That said, until I can get Dorkvader to incorporate some extra thumb keys for me I will probably stay with my Tipro. Which I am mostly using... 72 keys in two 6x6 arrays. (The rest of the keys are used, but not much and can be replaced with layer programming if I were so inclined).
Ron, I am salivating at the GH36. That said, until I can get Dorkvader to incorporate some extra thumb keys for me I will probably stay with my Tipro. Which I am mostly using... 72 keys in two 6x6 arrays. (The rest of the keys are used, but not much and can be replaced with layer programming if I were so inclined).
Where do you want the extra thumb keys?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Where the thumbs are - a bit like ergodox except flush against the side of the PCB so no need to stretch the thumbs out so far unlike Ergodox. Maybe 2x4 on the right of the left hand PCB and 2x4 on the left of the right hand PCB. I think these are vital for attracting ergodox users as well.
Where the thumbs are - a bit like ergodox except flush against the side of the PCB so no need to stretch the thumbs out so far unlike Ergodox. Maybe 2x4 on the right of the left hand PCB and 2x4 on the left of the right hand PCB. I think these are vital for attracting ergodox users as well.
Can you please send me a picture of a pair of these?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
look what i got in the mail today :) (THANKS MR RAY)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15460568021_46f13c5723.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pycseB)
oh boy oh boy oh boy
if all things work out well ill be building it tomorrow or the next day
ill probably need help lol
look what i got in the mail today :) (THANKS MR RAY)Wow. That was quick! Just put them in the mailbox Saturday.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15460568021_46f13c5723.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pycseB)
oh boy oh boy oh boy
if all things work out well ill be building it tomorrow or the next day
ill probably need help lol
going to be a delay getting mine together until this weekend. I think im going to dual dual teensy instead of the interconnection of the two halves. I think with this earlier prototype it would look better.
actually hmmm, i may end up building it afterall....
Well I'm doing it lol I got one hand almost complete. Ron can you give me an example layout dat for a single hand with ALL 1x keys
ok Ron, and surprisingly i got it working except for one key doesnt work
the 4 key in your layout, Coumn 5, (row 2?)
when i press it, the keyboard looks like it shorts out or something, it no longer registers keystrokes after i press that key and i have to unplug it
man i hope its a simple fix because desoldering a teensy is a huge pain in the ass, i actually find it almost impossible to desolder it
edit: what makes me think i have to desolder the teensy is because its only a single key doing this, the entire rest of the row and column works. the key is under the teensy and i cant go in and check the points
unless its a firmware thing?
ok Ron, and surprisingly i got it working except for one key doesnt work
the 4 key in your layout, Coumn 5, (row 2?)
when i press it, the keyboard looks like it shorts out or something, it no longer registers keystrokes after i press that key and i have to unplug it
man i hope its a simple fix because desoldering a teensy is a huge pain in the ass, i actually find it almost impossible to desolder it
edit: what makes me think i have to desolder the teensy is because its only a single key doing this, the entire rest of the row and column works. the key is under the teensy and i cant go in and check the points
unless its a firmware thing?
Unlikely. It sounds to me like a diode is missing, dead, or reversed. Check those first. The diode for that switch is visible just under the edge of the Teensy.
However, it might be more than that. In my experience it is likely to be a problem with soldering the Teensy, not a switch. Try the tests below with the keypad connected and a notepad document (or something) open:
#1 Does the 5% key work? If so, Row 2 works. If not, try 3#. If neither work, then you have a problem with Row 2, probably the solder joint on the Teensy.
#2 Does the F5 key work? If so, Column 5 works. If not, try the R key. If neither work, then you have a problem with Column 5, probably the solder joint on the Teensy.
#3 Does the firmware work? Use a jumper wire to connect the same row and column on the expansion pads. For the 4$ key (R2C5), connect the expansion pads labelled C5 and R2. If that works, you will get a 4 on the screen. And the firmware (and the Teensy) are fine. However, you may have a problem with the switch, again, probably a bad solder joint.
#4 Does the switch work? Unplug the keypad and attach a voltmeter or continuity tester to the same expansion pads (R2 and C5). Press the switch, and you should get a buzz, a light, or zero Ohms resistance, depending on what you are using to do this test. Because there is a diode in the circuit, try it with positive and negative swapped. If either polarity works (and all the other tests worked as well, the switch is good. Otherwise, you may have to undo that Teensy.
Good luck and keep me posted.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
p.s. You DID do the Row 5 fixes first, correct?
when i cross the 4$ manually from the back while plugged in, to test the switch, the keyboard literally shuts off, its as if it is crossing something it shouldn't, you have to replug it in for anything to work
i tried to desolder the teensy and gave up, it seems impossible, i tried with my soldapault and some wick, ill destroy the teensy and maybe the board trying
the diode is placed correctly but i guess it could be the diode itself, the tip i have is pointy but the iron still burns the teensy if i triy to get in there
ugh this sucks
when i cross the 4$ manually from the back while plugged in, to test the switch, the keyboard literally shuts off, its as if it is crossing something it shouldn't, you have to replug it in for anything to work
i tried to desolder the teensy and gave up, it seems impossible, i tried with my soldapault and some wick, ill destroy the teensy and maybe the board trying
the diode is placed correctly but i guess it could be the diode itself, the tip i have is pointy but the iron still burns the teensy if i triy to get in there
ugh this sucks
My goodness, you sound like me!
I feel so relieved that I never jumped on this opportunity. If experienced folks are getting hell, what hope do I have?
Don't worry Ron, I knew it was always going to be far more difficult at the start. That's why I was never going to get involved too deeply until past all beta tests. :)) That said I was surprised that only I seem to be suggesting going for something like ergodox. It seems far better designed, far more versatile, and far more usable than the ergodox but no one seems to have tried out the expansion pads that you created to add more keys.
i should mention i got the hand working 100%
Remember this http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61306.msg1450599#msg1450599
well it seems a very small trace remained, meaning when i pressed the 4 key, R2 and R6 crossed. exacto knife and it worked
i actually took off the teensy and re soldered it but it doesnt look like i needed to. it looks terrible now (the condition of the teensy) but it works
now to the next hand
How far from beta production would you estimate this to be? I would like to get in on that for 3 boards please.
alright so its built for a couple hours now. I used a mix of ergo-clears and clears i had laying around, so i have been trying different layouts and i think i have figured out what i want to do. it is similar to my ergodox layout https://flic.kr/p/onBsDc
i apologize ron for taking your idea to a different direction by moving up the key assignments and using 2 teensy instead of doing a connection in the middle
i am typing on it now though sucessfully
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5601/15303770599_bbbf73fd77.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pjkPPM)
i have some 2x retro, i actually want it like this, i want to have my function as a easily reachable thumb key :) i doubt id be able to get this to work for me without making it close to my ergodox layout
loving the way this feels with gaming compared to ergodox, however really not used to it for typing. i think a case would help
So i showed the wife the pics in the OP and she wants to try this as a game pad. I think this coupled with her Filco with BroSet and purple BroBot, she is leaning very precariously over an extremely deep rabbit hole.
Rounded-corner stacked case, anyone? Four screws in single-configuration; five in GH36x2 configuration.
qty 4 laser-cut acrylic (or metal, I suppose)
qty 4 6-32 machine screws
qty 4 6-32 x 1/4" threaded inserts (embedded "nuts")
qty 1 1/2" x 5.25" half-round acrylic (or nylon, sorbothane, rubber, brass, whatever)
Labor and cement to attach foot.
Laser-cut bar or stepped-pyramid or 1/4" bump-ons would also work for rear feet. Two top trim rings can be removed or stacked higher or lower to taste. Two are shown to cover switch layer.
Is anyone interested in such a simple case?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Rounded-corner stacked case, anyone? Four screws in single-configuration; five in GH36x2 configuration.
qty 4 laser-cut acrylic (or metal, I suppose)
qty 4 6-32 machine screws
qty 4 6-32 x 1/4" threaded inserts (embedded "nuts")
qty 1 1/2" x 5.25" half-round acrylic (or nylon, sorbothane, rubber, brass, whatever)
Labor and cement to attach foot.
Laser-cut bar or stepped-pyramid or 1/4" bump-ons would also work for rear feet. Two top trim rings can be removed or stacked higher or lower to taste. Two are shown to cover switch layer.
Is anyone interested in such a simple case?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Rounded-corner stacked case, anyone? Four screws in single-configuration; five in GH36x2 configuration.
qty 4 laser-cut acrylic (or metal, I suppose)
qty 4 6-32 machine screws
qty 4 6-32 x 1/4" threaded inserts (embedded "nuts")
qty 1 1/2" x 5.25" half-round acrylic (or nylon, sorbothane, rubber, brass, whatever)
Labor and cement to attach foot.
Laser-cut bar or stepped-pyramid or 1/4" bump-ons would also work for rear feet. Two top trim rings can be removed or stacked higher or lower to taste. Two are shown to cover switch layer.
Is anyone interested in such a simple case?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
One of the layers can be the plate.
Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=61306.0;attach=79434;image)
I love this idea than the shapeway, but not the black dot at the corners :D
Great work, excited for the beta version :x
Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=61306.0;attach=79434;image)
I love this idea than the shapeway, but not the black dot at the corners :D
Great work, excited for the beta version :x
I think the black dots are there mostly has a quick and easy analogue for a screw head.
Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=61306.0;attach=79434;image)
I love this idea than the shapeway, but not the black dot at the corners :D
Great work, excited for the beta version :x
I think the black dots are there mostly has a quick and easy analogue for a screw head.
Yep. The 3D version was for human eyes. The laser will want a DXF file, so 2D CAD for that.
Right now the plan is to have .125" holes on the top panel(s) with either the same on the bottom, or slightly larger holes for press-in threaded inserts.Show Image(http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/92394a116p1-b01l.png?ver=15581845)ORShow Image(http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/93365a162p1-b01l.png?ver=22754511)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=u5uc9e
But if I make the holes larger for the inserts, then they become mandatory. Decisions, decisions.
FYI, I have ordered a sample of a Startech right-angle mini-USB cable, which would allow me to route the USB cable to exit through the top of the keypad.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
[edit]
Glod or other Prototype builders:
Do any of you want any of the cases I've discussed in this thread? The Beta will have a different (better) interconnect cable, so the Proto PCB needs a slightly different exit for that.
Any Proto builders who want any of these cases should let me know, and I can make them available to you.
[/edit]
I vote for same sized holes non the bottom as well. If someone wants threaded inserts pressed in, it won't be difficult to open them up. My suggestion would be to have the bottom hole sized for threading the size you are planning for hardware. This way one could just run a tap through the hole, thread the screw in and be done. Or open it up to the through hole size and put a a crew with a nut on as well or threaded insert.
I can confirm, anything below 4mm acrylic is hard to tap as the threads get messed up pretty easy.
I still think my idea of a stand-off inserted in between two flat head screws or any screws for that matter is the best option for laser cut stacked acrylic case.
Can't comment on aluminum.
Really impressed with the level of discussion going on. You guys know what you're talking about. It's a pleasure to follow this thread and learn.
But Samwisekoi, if you have melt in inserts, doesn't that make the casing impossible to disassemble in future? I think one of the strengths of a screw in Tipro style casing is that we can add and remove modules as easily as lego. I'm sure many geekhackers have the experience where they sometimes want a different bigger layout and sometimes want portability with a minimal sized module. Also if PCB is gonna be sandwiched between layers that means no more removing the pcb if someone needs to later, maybe to correct a screwup (like me).
Any update on the Gh36 progress samwisekoi?
Hope it's still going well.
Just to clarify from those of you guys that have built these up already the black band on the diodes goes on the square pad towards the switch, and for two unit keys the diode goes on the location with the ! in the triangle, correct??
Sam I'm interested in a case, preferably a tray type one that I don't have to desolder the switches. I'm not going through that remove teensy adventure again. It's got to be not too expensive though because I'm still unemployed.
Obviously the inter connect change isn't a problem in my build.
Just to clarify from those of you guys that have built these up already the black band on the diodes goes on the square pad towards the switch, and for two unit keys the diode goes on the location with the ! in the triangle, correct??
The band on the diodes indicates the cathode. The cathode end does indeed go toward the square pad. Those little triangles are actually little tiny caution signs ("caution signs for ants?"). They indicate diodes that are in reverse orientation. But even they have the cathode pin going into the square pad.
To the best of my ability, all future samwisekoi PCB designs will have 100% of the diodes consistently aligned. But not the prototype GH36, alas.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
All good, so long as cathodes all go to the same shape pads I don't think it should be to much of an issue.
I will take two please.
Freakin Gorgeous!
Does this "final" beta still have cut lines?
How can I support this effort / when can I buy some?
cheers,
K
I love how this supports so many different layouts.
Quick question;
6*6 (R*C) layout's mounting holes are obvious (I imagine those are the holes in the four corners). Are there any obvious mounting holes for 6*4, 5*4 or 4*4? Or are these configs mounted by plate?
Cheers,
K
Holy God that's sweet!
talk about rapid development!!
Who wouldn't order a few of these?
Would it be possible to interconnect three PCBs so I have a left hand, right hand, and a numpad? Or would it be simpler to just do left + right and then do a separate numpad?
P.S. I'm in for the beta or whenever there's full backlighting. 'gotta have them LEDs!
Would it be possible to interconnect three PCBs so I have a left hand, right hand, and a numpad? Or would it be simpler to just do left + right and then do a separate numpad?
P.S. I'm in for the beta or whenever there's full backlighting. 'gotta have them LEDs!
How do you plan to have your custom backlit keys? No point having LEDs without backlit keycaps. Sure, the alphas are easy. But you won't have the 1u modifiers eg 1u shift 1u space 1u tab. Or are you planning to organize a group buy with Vortex or whatever for backlit 1u mods? I'm 100% behind you in that case and will buy several sets.
Would it be possible to interconnect three PCBs so I have a left hand, right hand, and a numpad? Or would it be simpler to just do left + right and then do a separate numpad?
P.S. I'm in for the beta or whenever there's full backlighting. 'gotta have them LEDs!
How do you plan to have your custom backlit keys? No point having LEDs without backlit keycaps. Sure, the alphas are easy. But you won't have the 1u modifiers eg 1u shift 1u space 1u tab. Or are you planning to organize a group buy with Vortex or whatever for backlit 1u mods? I'm 100% behind you in that case and will buy several sets.
Umm...I just want the backlight for the glow underneath the keys. :cool:
The matrix is only 6x12, so three-wide is not supported. I'd say you should have a pair in GH36x2 configuration on one Teensy/USB cable, and then a second keypad on a second Teensy/USB. That configuration does end up providing the option of a fourth keypad as a LH matrix for macro keys, gaming, or whatever else.
Should I bother adding optional circuits for NUM, CAPS, and two different WASD clusters? If not, I can expose the other LED circuits for hand-wiring and move quickly to shipping Beta PCBs.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
The matrix is only 6x12, so three-wide is not supported. I'd say you should have a pair in GH36x2 configuration on one Teensy/USB cable, and then a second keypad on a second Teensy/USB. That configuration does end up providing the option of a fourth keypad as a LH matrix for macro keys, gaming, or whatever else.
Got it!
Mmm....4th numpad! I'd have more keys than the GH-122! :))Should I bother adding optional circuits for NUM, CAPS, and two different WASD clusters? If not, I can expose the other LED circuits for hand-wiring and move quickly to shipping Beta PCBs.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
These optional circuits would allow for LEDs only in those positions or as lock indicator LEDs?
Ron, why not just have a jumper, when building the keyboard, the builder can solder the jumper depending on whatever config they want.
I was thinking more along the lines of having simple surface pad jumpers, unlike SMD components, these are easier to solder than TH jumpers.
Something like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XscLu7cl.png)
That super PCB impresses the hell out of me, Ron. But looking at the price, I take it these PCBs aren't going to be of Ergodox quality? (I have been looking at ergodox PCBs recently and was really taken with the quality.)
I mention quality, because it is practically guaranteed some idiots (such as me) are certain to do stupid things when faced with such a complex PCB. EG we put solder into the wrong holes, we solder in switches or LEDs the wrong way round, etc. I think the PCB should be able to endure considerable 'abuse' (as in multiple resoldering cycles.) Spending a few more bucks per PCB should pay off in the longer run when fewer PCBs die.
I was thinking more along the lines of having simple surface pad jumpers, unlike SMD components, these are easier to solder than TH jumpers.
Something like this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XscLu7cl.png)
So a blob of solder on 1-2 for backlighting or a blob of solder on 2-3 for CPS (e.g.)?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Just to add my voice regarding case design, I hope that some people will design cases with room to accommodate more keys hand-added in the thumb positions. Slits in the case or something like that. I'm pretty sure I am not going to be the only person who wants to use this layout in a split ergodox style.
Ron, I understand I can hook up more keys to the GH36 but have never done it before in practice. Do you recommend getting these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-White-Keyboard-2x5-keys-Metal-Panel-Switch-Machine-type-Pushbutton-/140570497982?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item20baa793be
and doing hand wiring to the teensy
or do you think designing my own custom PCB for a thumb key area would work better? I would probably do a 2x3 matrix for the thumbs since I can't stretch far. If designing, I will make my PCB extremely simple because I have no capacity to do what you did.
Micro Logic seems to be pretty cheap, but at this stage I know too little to submit my own quote. How many PCBs did you have to buy to get that $10 cheapo price? Right now I believe I will buy 4-6 for myself and maybe some other people will buy a few to get 10 orders.
So I have worked out how to add 6-key "Thumb" sections to the GH36x2. And you should be able to do so by cutting the thumb sections from GH36 PCBs.
When I have a chance, I'll pull the info out of my head and post it here. I may include some images if I can get time to make them.
FYI,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Ron, do the pins for the rows and columns still match the pinouts posted on the first page?
Yes, those pinouts are accurate +/- the fixes that are needed.
I'm not interested in backlighting, so I'm considering using an arduino pro micro as a controller, which has 18 pins for 12 rows and 6 columns. I'm hoping to connect these pins to the relevant pins on the pcb. Am I correct in assuming the other pins are used for LED circuits, and aren't necessary for the board to function?
18 pins plus ground and Vcc should do it just fine.
I'm also having trouble following the vcc trace coming off the teensy -- it's also for LED power, correct?
That is all it is for. It does also go to the interconnect, but still, just for LEDs. (Actually, where it goes is to the transistor for the LED circuit.)
Alternately, is it possible to post a schematic view of the PCB? I could find my own answers from there without too much trouble.
Sorry, that exists only in my head, and is erased after I get the PCB designed.
So if I'm reading that right, VCC is only for LED power, but I should still connect it to the board even if I'm not using any LEDs? I feel like I must be missing something here.
If I'm not doing LEDs, I also don't need the resistors or transistors, correct? Just switches, diodes, and some means of doing the interconnect?
Did this project fall by the wayside? I had been following it for quite a while hoping to purchase a final version but I haven't seen much activity in this thread. I am a third party retirement plan administrator that is constantly working on financials for 401k plans for my clients and I hate having to bounce back and forth from the numpad on the right side of the keyboard to the center or left side of my keyboard. I have looked into buying a 10-key board but none of them have all of the keys I need to use when I am working in excel and communicating with my clients and their CPAs. I need something with an escape key nearby to reset my computer calculator, a comma key for typing financials into emails properly, the percent symbol, parenthesis keys, an equal key, an asterisk key, a tab key for excel navigation, a backspace key, and a delete key. This project looked to be exactly what I needed with all of the programmability to customize it to my needs but, although I have soldered a few components to a couple of motherboards in the past, I don't know as I have what it takes to put this all together on my own.
If this project is still moving forward let me know. And if someone already has a working board or two and would be willing to discuss a price to put one together for me I would like to hear from you.
Thanks!
Did this project fall by the wayside? I had been following it for quite a while hoping to purchase a final version but I haven't seen much activity in this thread. I am a third party retirement plan administrator that is constantly working on financials for 401k plans for my clients and I hate having to bounce back and forth from the numpad on the right side of the keyboard to the center or left side of my keyboard. I have looked into buying a 10-key board but none of them have all of the keys I need to use when I am working in excel and communicating with my clients and their CPAs. I need something with an escape key nearby to reset my computer calculator, a comma key for typing financials into emails properly, the percent symbol, parenthesis keys, an equal key, an asterisk key, a tab key for excel navigation, a backspace key, and a delete key. This project looked to be exactly what I needed with all of the programmability to customize it to my needs but, although I have soldered a few components to a couple of motherboards in the past, I don't know as I have what it takes to put this all together on my own.
If this project is still moving forward let me know. And if someone already has a working board or two and would be willing to discuss a price to put one together for me I would like to hear from you.
Thanks!
Did this project fall by the wayside? I had been following it for quite a while hoping to purchase a final version but I haven't seen much activity in this thread. I am a third party retirement plan administrator that is constantly working on financials for 401k plans for my clients and I hate having to bounce back and forth from the numpad on the right side of the keyboard to the center or left side of my keyboard. I have looked into buying a 10-key board but none of them have all of the keys I need to use when I am working in excel and communicating with my clients and their CPAs. I need something with an escape key nearby to reset my computer calculator, a comma key for typing financials into emails properly, the percent symbol, parenthesis keys, an equal key, an asterisk key, a tab key for excel navigation, a backspace key, and a delete key. This project looked to be exactly what I needed with all of the programmability to customize it to my needs but, although I have soldered a few components to a couple of motherboards in the past, I don't know as I have what it takes to put this all together on my own.
If this project is still moving forward let me know. And if someone already has a working board or two and would be willing to discuss a price to put one together for me I would like to hear from you.
Thanks!
You share the same thoughts with me, all I need is an extended Excel keypad! As an actuary, I need to use Excel excessively and I need those symbol keys in addition to a normal keypad.
However, existing GHPAD doesn't seem to offer direct output of symbol (maybe the easy firmware doesn't support this) and is more importantly not large enough.
I'm interested in one single large matrix. Hopefully the project is still alive.
Did this project fall by the wayside? I had been following it for quite a while hoping to purchase a final version but I haven't seen much activity in this thread. I am a third party retirement plan administrator that is constantly working on financials for 401k plans for my clients and I hate having to bounce back and forth from the numpad on the right side of the keyboard to the center or left side of my keyboard. I have looked into buying a 10-key board but none of them have all of the keys I need to use when I am working in excel and communicating with my clients and their CPAs. I need something with an escape key nearby to reset my computer calculator, a comma key for typing financials into emails properly, the percent symbol, parenthesis keys, an equal key, an asterisk key, a tab key for excel navigation, a backspace key, and a delete key. This project looked to be exactly what I needed with all of the programmability to customize it to my needs but, although I have soldered a few components to a couple of motherboards in the past, I don't know as I have what it takes to put this all together on my own.
If this project is still moving forward let me know. And if someone already has a working board or two and would be willing to discuss a price to put one together for me I would like to hear from you.
Thanks!
You share the same thoughts with me, all I need is an extended Excel keypad! As an actuary, I need to use Excel excessively and I need those symbol keys in addition to a normal keypad.
However, existing GHPAD doesn't seem to offer direct output of symbol (maybe the easy firmware doesn't support this) and is more importantly not large enough.
I'm interested in one single large matrix. Hopefully the project is still alive.
Easy AVR firmware will support this in a new release that should be posted as a beta tonight.
you know I'm a big supporter, Ron. What's the price on your rev 2s? If they're still $10 apiece I'll buy up to 6. If you get enough buyers later I'll let go of 2. Either way I'm taking a minimum of 4.
I'm interested in a whole bunch of these boards, dependent on price and availability. Probably 5 or 6 ideally.
Any chance you can post an electrical layout of the Rev. 2 board? Or is it essentially identical to the layout on the last page?
Please count me in for 2 pcbs.
Would I need two teensy's, if I want to build something similar to an ergodox with these boards?
As I have said previously I intend to use the GH36 as a split matrix pair 36x2 keys for actual use. Leds will be soldered into SIP sockets. The good thing is you have a guaranteed tester who will put hours on it.
The bad thing is I don't have much skill, and really don't want to be testing it as a gamepad with alternate use of key locations. I don't game much.
Also I will strictly be using the Cherry MX pads. I don't use alps at all.
Wait this is still open? I want one. Count me in.
Hmm so you can use two PCBs as a single board, Ergodox-style? I'm changing my order to two, please!
Hmm so you can use two PCBs as a single board, Ergodox-style? I'm changing my order to two, please!
Because of cost, strength during shipping, and the possibility of lifting pads if someone has never soldered a keyboard before, I much prefer to ship these PCBs in PAIRS anyhow. It adds little to the cost, nothing to postage, and hugely improves shipping safety.
I will probably also make a 3D-printed 5x5 case model available for self-printing or purchase through Shapeways.
But none of this is happening for at least a couple of weeks!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Hmm so you can use two PCBs as a single board, Ergodox-style? I'm changing my order to two, please!
Because of cost, strength during shipping, and the possibility of lifting pads if someone has never soldered a keyboard before, I much prefer to ship these PCBs in PAIRS anyhow. It adds little to the cost, nothing to postage, and hugely improves shipping safety.
I will probably also make a 3D-printed 5x5 case model available for self-printing or purchase through Shapeways.
But none of this is happening for at least a couple of weeks!
- Ron | samwisekoi
5x5 inches? That seems a little big for a 6x6 key matrix keyboard. Can anyone cook up a design for a metal version? I am guessing that a 3D printed casing has to be thick due to the weaker material.
Just a heads up for anyone thinking of wiring up LEDs to the full board:
R29 doesn't have a trace connecting it to the switch. This affects the 1u at (5,5) and the 2u at (5, 5.5). It's not an easy trace to run, and I don't see an immediately-apparent way to do so, but it should be easy to fix up with some wire wrap or the like.
And lo, v.150506a5 has been born.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Just a heads up for anyone thinking of wiring up LEDs to the full board:
R29 doesn't have a trace connecting it to the switch. This affects the 1u at (5,5) and the 2u at (5, 5.5). It's not an easy trace to run, and I don't see an immediately-apparent way to do so, but it should be easy to fix up with some wire wrap or the like.
And lo, v.150506a5 has been born.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Now we have two resistors running to that switch (which should be using R23 from the looks of it.) R29 should run to the switch to its right with the PCB in that orientation.
GH36 BETA UPDATE - Rev 1.1Awesome news!
Ok, you asked for it, you got it. For Mother's Day, I give you the GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA with full backlighting!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HSAyv8U.png)
GH36 Rev 1.1 BETA Backlighting Traces.
Also fixed the missing LED ground on R2. And made some other simplifications and fixes.
I have not gone through circuit checking or updated the cross-connect, but I will. This should make Rev 1.1 satisfy all known needs.
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)
Excellent!
This is a single LED circuit, driven from one pin, correct?
Everything looks so awesome, I can't think of anything else except to test this.
BTW it also looks as though it means you can wire up 32 LEDs to the normal circuit, and have 4 pads left over for the WASD LEDs if you neeed to make them work independently and program them and what not?
(This is not something I personally care about, but some gamers may.)
Let's see if I have some clue:
6+6 IO pads on teensy will be for this keyboard matrix.
Teensy has 25 IO pads available.
You can choose to hook up 2 keypads as 'ergodox' with 1 more IO pad for capslock.
Or if you are using 1 teensy per keypad you will have 6+6 for keyboard matrix and 13 IO left over. That means you can have capslock light, scrolllock light, numlock light, 3 function layer lights if you want 3 function layers, and still 7 more IO?
This suggests that for instance a busy geek can direct wire the leds to 7 circuits so allow for finer control of the backlighting?
(I will have all LEDS on the same circuit, but am just trying to understand how this works. Furthermore the answers to my questions may help other people)
What about Arduino?
It should theoretically work fine with an arduino, but it won't be able to be soldered directly to the board like you can do with the teensy, due to differences in pin locations/assignments. You'd have to run a lot of extra wires, and assuming you want a pair of boards hooked together, you'd need to ensure you had 19 data pins available. Most arduino (or compatible) controllers that have that many pins exposed aren't significantly cheaper than a teensy in any case, at least that I've found. IMO, it would be an awful lot of work to save very little money. For a half board or cutting one down to a numpad, it might be more reasonable to use something like a pro micro, but you'd still need to run a bunch of loose wires just to get the matrix to line up properly.
It should be theoretically possible to hand-wire different LED zones, but you'd need to cut traces to isolate these zones. (You may also need another transistor? I'm not entirely sure how those circuits work, will need to do some reading.)
Ron, let me just get my bearings in order.
1) switches should be soldered in first
The Teensy goes in last. I do diodes, then resistors, then switches, then LEDs, then the transistor, and then, finally, the Teensy.
2) teensy will be soldered in after that, on the other side as the switches. So removing either is fairly difficult. You don’t have access to the switch solder pads until you remove the teensy, but you can’t really get the big solder sucker into position as easily as it was to get just the solder wire into position earlier, because the switches are on the other side and in the way?
Yes. It is horrible. Frankly, I would say that without sockets it is impossible to remove the Teensy without destroying it.
3) What do you mean by labeled and assigned but not wired in? Does that mean no hardware support, so if we decide to make them the three standard lock lights, I should run 1 wire from each to the LEDs for lock lights and then do the programming? (You can tell from my questions that I’m kinda stupid about such things.)
You have it exactly correct.
4) LED circuit only means LEDs being CONTROLLED right? Not in a series of 36? If one LED dies, will it bring down the entire system and force users to test each LED individually?
Again, you are correct. Control only. Each LED is on an individual, parallel circuit.
5) What about the resistors for LEDs? how are they being wired up?
One per LED, directly from the LED to the ground plane.
OK, here’s one potential contribution. I got to offer it because I think it is worth your serious consideration at the point when you’ve just designed the casing and are about to offer it for download.
The teensy can be inserted into SIP sockets.
SIP sockets are cheap.
So I propose soldering in two rows of SIP sockets instead. (The teensy should be inserted anyway before soldering to make sure the SIPs are exactly straight.) That way whenever you want to remove the teensy, or to change out the two Cherry switches, you only have to pull off the teensy.
The height may be raised by 2mm so your casing may have to be adjusted.
Yes. I have tried various options, including the sockets sold with the Teensy. They are the easiest. And the tallest. SIP sockets are much lower profile, but require thinner pins. See my post in the JD45 thread on how to do that, including the specific sockets I use,
So basically to make a lefthand / righthand board, you flip the PCB over and solder the components in the opposite direction, is that correct?
Ok, the PCB layout is ready for review. I already see that the column connector to D4 is missing (see blue circle.) Are there any more errors?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/p6Tya1d.png)
GH36 Gamepad PCB Layout 150512a9 by samwisekoi 2015.
I'll run some checks, and fix anything found, and then we'll have ourselves a little flash buy.
Enjoy!
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.)
Ron, would it be possible to post images of individual layers of the board? One image with red traces, one image with green traces, one image with the orange component outlines/labels?
I'm having trouble following traces in some of the busier areas of the board, and that would help me check over the board more effectively.
I used a 31 cent transistor, Mouser P/N 512-MPSA29, which should handle up to 40 20mA LEDs.
Ron, you can make a BOM and save it on Mouser's site, then anyone can add all those parts to their cart in one click. I think that might save on shipping costs, but maybe not. It would be a good option.
I think you're referring to a shrouded box header. Here is one on Amazon. (http://www.amazon.com/Accessories-16-Pin-SHROUDED-HEADER-2-PACK/dp/B009A471WC)
Finally got some time to do a visual check of the traces. Pretty much everything looks good to me in terms of things hooking up where they are supposed to, traces not overlapping, that sort of thing. I do see a couple of vias that don't appear to link to anything (they're easiest to see if you look at the green layer only), and there's an LED2 pad at the interconnect that isn't connected to any traces, which I assume is intentional.
I can't see anything else wrong with the design. Of course, that doesn't mean I'm certain it's perfect, but it looks good enough for a buy, in my eyes.
OK, not to sound like the 40 year young hobbit trying to teach 200 year old samwise how to eat lembas, but just a reminderShow Image(http://www.tandyonline.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/6/26-way-pcb-female-header_1.png)
Teensy with pins was designed for these things. So we need to be soldering the female headers and then placing the teensy into the sockets. Samwisekoi please remember to add the appropriate mouser part numbers into your list of 'necessities' like resistors and diodes. The link is to a picture I googled and I don't know the correct trade description.
I think many experts made the mistake of soldering the teensy with pins directly into the pads, and now have difficulty if they ever want to desolder teensy.
User 18, the problem is that once soldered, you can't adjust the switches and LEDs for 2 positions since they are now blocked. That's why on this particular design the teensy can't be soldered permanently. You're asking for trouble should you ever need to change a dead LED or a stuttering switch.
the most common problems that people have are stuttering switches and dead leds.
Hello,
Not sure about etiquette about such things here, but i hope i'm not stepping on any toes.
I just wanted to say that this is exactly the keyboard i have been looking for, and i would very much appreciate being able to order a kit somewhere, even if its "only" a beta. I currently own 3 Typematrixes in various stages of brokenness, and would love to replace them with something more durable, and/or repairable.
I work as a software developer, and have done some minor stuff with arduinos, so i might be able to give some feedback from a "educated hardware noob" perspective.
Edit: Also, which key switches can be used on the pcb? Cherry and compatilbes? matias alps? both?
This design can use Cherry and compatible switches. You'll probably want to use PCB mount switches, as it will be much easier than getting a plate to work with this board.
There will likely be a buy happening shortly so everyone who wants to get some of these will have a chance to buy them (in pairs). I don't know exactly when that will be though.
I would also be interested in 2 PCB:s, for making a split keyboard.
BTW, what keycaps are those in this (http://i.imgur.com/A1S21BZ.png) samwisekoi's image? They are very nice looking!
I am also interested in purchasing one of these for gaming. How much do they cost? How do I order one?
Patmur2010
Excellent to see so much interest now that the project is nearing completion. Ron should be relieved too. His hard work should be enjoyed by as many people as possible.
Excellent to see so much interest now that the project is nearing completion. Ron should be relieved too. His hard work should be enjoyed by as many people as possible.
Setting my interest once again. Kind of thought this held fallen through. Awesome to see the resurrected threadSince all the recent posts are just asking for updates I wouldn't call it resurrected.
resurrecting this, one more little bump, maybe Sam will come back to it, though **** he is gonna be swamped with the GH60 soon.
Sam, was wonderinng there any case options i could buy/have made right now for my v1 proto, i was going through my keyboard collection and decided to plug in my GH36duo, im actually typing this post on it :) its actually nicer than i remembered, much more compact than a ergodox, and from my understanding i am the only one who did mine like this. but the acrylic bars thing is so ghetto, i'm willing to complete this thing as long as its not too expensive and doesnt require me unsoldering the teensy, which essentially means i cant unsolder the switches due to the the keys under the teensy :( i guess the 3d printed tray is the only option
i guess i could build a new one from scratch as well if you had any spare pcbs to buy.
if not on either, i guess oh well, just hating this board not having a case
edit - post needs pics
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1593/23571827134_fe3f64bc9d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BUXLYE)
Ron, are there still plans to do another run of PCBs at some point?
UPDATE: Prototype GH36 Case now available for purchase from Shapeways.He lives!
I have a dozen or more untried variations designed to improve the case and/or reduce cost. This one has the virtue of having been made and put to use.
It is not as cheap as I would like, but it works. You'll need four rubber feet and four small screws, and a little ingenuity, and it will work.
A prototype case for a prototype keyboard.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/EZEVDFF23/gh36-wedge-case-v-1-proto
- Ron | samwisekoiShow Image(http://images4.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_2690473_6771253_1429741159.jpg)
3D render from shapeways.com
Ron, are there still plans to do another run of PCBs at some point?
If so, I'll jump on it for sure.
Part of me is so tempted to want to get in on this, should there actually ever be a PC board group buy (I'm not aware of Ron (samwisekoi) actually setting one up yet).
(Attachment Link)
My issue, is that I think the PC board might be too big to be visually compatible with my plate mounted, hand wired keyboard. It looks like it would overhang too far beyond the outer dimensions of my keyboard. I want a matched number pad for my main keyboard, and I really don't think there's a way I can match this board up. It just looks too big. When i did my plate design, I kept the dimensions to an absolute minimum.
(Attachment Link)
I threw some Commodore 64 keycaps on for testing, and it's pretty close to the edge. The edge of the MX housing is barely over 0.25 inch (6.35 mm) from the edge of the plate. I tried to do a guestimate of the PC board size, but visually, scaled next to my keyboard, he PCB appears just a bit too big. Bummer.
Still, if the PCBs become available, I might buy, just to have them. I think I might have other projects I could use them on, like auxiliary keypads for my Kerbal Space Program controller. I'd normally stick to just my DSKY keypad, but the Danger Zone keycap set that I got has a lot of aviation themed keys... Hard to pass that up, but sadly, I'd have to leave some gaps, as some keys are not 1u or 2u keys. I'll have to consider my options if this actually ever happens.
(Attachment Link)
As a side note, the case for my keyboard was made with a $3.88 piece of oak moulding from a hardware store, a hand saw, a file, and a dremel to drill the screw holes. Super easy, and super cheap. the stain cost more than the wood! The screws are brass (plated?) and were real cheap, probably about $0.09-0.11 cents each, depending on them being the longer or shorter ones I used.
I'm thinking about cheap and easy to make case options, and I think I've come up with a good plan:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/36nTRaP.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUov00c.png)
Basically a couple of end blocks, milled out of aluminum, with slots for the PCB to slide into. Then the two halves will be held in place by stainless steel dowels with tapped holes in the end.
I don't think this setup would work for a full-size board (or even a 60%) because there is nothing underneath the PCB to add support, but since this is such a short PCB at only 6 keys wide, I think this might work well.
Interested. So how does this work for the double-sized keys? Do you have to trim out the little bars manually?
Awesome to see activity on this project. I am looking to make a split matrix keyboard and think this is the ideal starting point. Would be keen on two pcb's when the group buy kicks off to build something like the "GH36x2 Ergo Keypads (Option B)" presented early in the project.
I don't get why you need those little bar things at all?
I was told there would be free beer and skittles.
Part of me is so tempted to want to get in on this, should there actually ever be a PC board group buy (I'm not aware of Ron (samwisekoi) actually setting one up yet).
(Attachment Link)
My issue, is that I think the PC board might be too big to be visually compatible with my plate mounted, hand wired keyboard. It looks like it would overhang too far beyond the outer dimensions of my keyboard. I want a matched number pad for my main keyboard, and I really don't think there's a way I can match this board up. It just looks too big. When i did my plate design, I kept the dimensions to an absolute minimum.
(Attachment Link)
I threw some Commodore 64 keycaps on for testing, and it's pretty close to the edge. The edge of the MX housing is barely over 0.25 inch (6.35 mm) from the edge of the plate. I tried to do a guestimate of the PC board size, but visually, scaled next to my keyboard, he PCB appears just a bit too big. Bummer.
Still, if the PCBs become available, I might buy, just to have them. I think I might have other projects I could use them on, like auxiliary keypads for my Kerbal Space Program controller. I'd normally stick to just my DSKY keypad, but the Danger Zone keycap set that I got has a lot of aviation themed keys... Hard to pass that up, but sadly, I'd have to leave some gaps, as some keys are not 1u or 2u keys. I'll have to consider my options if this actually ever happens.
(Attachment Link)
As a side note, the case for my keyboard was made with a $3.88 piece of oak moulding from a hardware store, a hand saw, a file, and a dremel to drill the screw holes. Super easy, and super cheap. the stain cost more than the wood! The screws are brass (plated?) and were real cheap, probably about $0.09-0.11 cents each, depending on them being the longer or shorter ones I used.
Nice board and case!
The GH36 has .250 extra on all four sides, and it looks like your keyboard -- in its case -- has the same. The physical dimensions might work.
Also, I can easily make more v.1 PCBs. I stopped mostly because almost no one who got the proto PCBs actually built them into keyboards. :'(
I think the dedicated controller for Kerbal is a great idea. I've set mine up for a couple of games to good effect.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sorry about that sir. I had a stroke last year and basically am just now in a position where I think I can finally build mine.
I am looking at buying the cases from shapeways now.
honestly I would rather buy a second set with the fixes incorporated so that I do not have to reroute the traces like in the first proto.
I would love to support the project and buy a new revision to help get the numbers higher also.
I will patiently wait for the buy to start.
(I'm looking at you DangerZone)
(I'm looking at you DangerZone)
So basically... Looking fine! ;D
I LOVE my DZ set! Finished assembling my keyboard yesterday, and now all I gotta do is program it! :p
I'm looking at this GH36 as a macros board to go next to my ErgoDox. I write automation test scripts (Selenium) for a living, so I find myself typing the same things over and over (and yes, I know there are add-ons for various text editors that will expand phrases for me, but I want to hit a set button instead). I've gotten really fast with the Layer2 tenkey I have built into my ErgoDox firmware, so I /probably/ won't use this for a keypad, but we'll see.
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
Oh nice! I will definitely use mine with the GH 122
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
Oh nice! I will definitely use mine with the GH 122
Seriously? You guys will look like Rick Wakeman (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC9GN7TAB0Y) in concert.
(Attachment Link)
Rick Wakeman - Judas Iscarioti
I look forward to battle-station pictures!
- Ron | samwisekoi
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
Oh nice! I will definitely use mine with the GH 122
Seriously? You guys will look like Rick Wakeman (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC9GN7TAB0Y) in concert.
(Attachment Link)
Rick Wakeman - Judas Iscarioti
I look forward to battle-station pictures!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Good! :D
I still need to figure out a casing for both boards though.
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
Oh nice! I will definitely use mine with the GH 122
Seriously? You guys will look like Rick Wakeman (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC9GN7TAB0Y) in concert.
(Attachment Link)
Rick Wakeman - Judas Iscarioti
I look forward to battle-station pictures!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Good! :D
I still need to figure out a casing for both boards though.
I think you should start to think about having all three pcbs mouted INTO your desk ;D
OK, I have made the few fixes to the20152014 version that were discovered in the prototype phase and will shortly announce a group buy for the PCB.
Cost will be between $10 and $20 USD, depending on volume. They fit easily into inexpensive mailers, so postage will be cheap worldwide.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Welp now I want one of these to go with my JD45.
I want two to go with my GH-122.
Oh nice! I will definitely use mine with the GH 122
Seriously? You guys will look like Rick Wakeman (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC9GN7TAB0Y) in concert.
(Attachment Link)
Rick Wakeman - Judas Iscarioti
I look forward to battle-station pictures!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Good! :D
I still need to figure out a casing for both boards though.
I think you should start to think about having all three pcbs mouted INTO your desk ;D
That'd be badass but I am not crafty and will be graduating college soon. Maybe in the future though.
Almost bought a Planck as a gamepad but wanted... This! Please count me in when you start the GB.
I'm looking at you DangerZone
GH-122.2016 boards are in and shipping out. Once I get them all out, I'm going to catch my breath and look at making and shipping these.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Yup. I'm working on clearing out other projects, but I will definitely do another run of these in the new year.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Yup. I'm working on clearing out other projects, but I will definitely do another run of these in the new year.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Yup. I'm working on clearing out other projects, but I will definitely do another run of these in the new year.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Yup. I'm working on clearing out other projects, but I will definitely do another run of these in the new year.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Yup. I'm working on clearing out other projects, but I will definitely do another run of these in the new year.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Update
So this project is not dead. I finished the Rev. 2 PCB, and metalliqaz finished the firmware. Frankly, I gave up on waiting for feedback from the Rev. 1 prototypers.
But my GH-36 works fine, so if there is enough demand, I can easily get another run of 20 printed and shipped.
Are people interested?
- Ron | samwisekoiDid this project fall by the wayside? I had been following it for quite a while hoping to purchase a final version but I haven't seen much activity in this thread. I am a third party retirement plan administrator that is constantly working on financials for 401k plans for my clients and I hate having to bounce back and forth from the numpad on the right side of the keyboard to the center or left side of my keyboard. I have looked into buying a 10-key board but none of them have all of the keys I need to use when I am working in excel and communicating with my clients and their CPAs. I need something with an escape key nearby to reset my computer calculator, a comma key for typing financials into emails properly, the percent symbol, parenthesis keys, an equal key, an asterisk key, a tab key for excel navigation, a backspace key, and a delete key. This project looked to be exactly what I needed with all of the programmability to customize it to my needs but, although I have soldered a few components to a couple of motherboards in the past, I don't know as I have what it takes to put this all together on my own.
If this project is still moving forward let me know. And if someone already has a working board or two and would be willing to discuss a price to put one together for me I would like to hear from you.
Thanks!
You share the same thoughts with me, all I need is an extended Excel keypad! As an actuary, I need to use Excel excessively and I need those symbol keys in addition to a normal keypad.
However, existing GHPAD doesn't seem to offer direct output of symbol (maybe the easy firmware doesn't support this) and is more importantly not large enough.
I'm interested in one single large matrix. Hopefully the project is still alive.
Easy AVR firmware will support this in a new release that should be posted as a beta tonight.
I'd buy one, I'm really interested in this numpad. Some questions from a noob:
What else would I need in addition to the pcb? Case + plating + switches + caps + cable? Am I missing something?
Also, how would I go about programming it once I have it?
I'd buy one, I'm really interested in this numpad. Some questions from a noob:
What else would I need in addition to the pcb? Case + plating + switches + caps + cable? Am I missing something?
Also, how would I go about programming it once I have it?
This has no controller either, so you'd need to source one of those. It's designed for a teensy 2.0 IIRC, but you could probably make it work with something else without too much trouble. How you would program it would be based on the controller you picked -- teensy 2.0 has a few keyboard firmware options floating around the forum, or you could get fancy and roll your own.
Also diodes. And LEDs plus resistors and a transistor if backlighting is desired.
Isn't there a parts list back there somewhere?
- Ron | samwisekoi
This is a reply to a PM I think will be useful for others...QuoteSo Im interested in one but cant seem to find a price anywhere, or what services offered. How much would I have to spend to get a pad?
Well, the status is this:
I have designed and had made 20 prototype PCBs for the GH36 Matrix Keypad. Each PCB cost around $20. After the prototypes are worked on by several experienced members, I will make 20 +/- beta versions. Those will have full backlighting. Again, probably around $20 per PCB. Then, if people want some, I will do a production run, and the price per PCB will probably drop to $10 each.
Using the $10 cost for the PCB, you would have to gather the following:
$10 PCB
$5 diodes and resistors
$20 Teensy controller
$30 so far.
Plus however many switches you want to install. Cherry MX switches are 50 cents to $1 each.
LEDs are 25-50 cents each, so another $5 there.
Call it $35 plus switches.
Then you need to solder it all together (pretty easy job) and add keycaps.
Assuming you have or can get the keycaps you want for free, you are looking at $40-50 or so for parts, then 30-90 minutes of build time. The firmware is easy to create, and is fully customizable and free, so that won't add cost.
I'd call it a $50 DIY project, max.
- Ron | samwisekoi
This would be my first keyboard build of any kind, so I want to make absolutely sure of what I'm getting into. Prices aside, the parts list is:
-GH36 PCB (which I intend to cut down to 4x6)
-Teensy 2.0 microcontroller + metalliqaz's keymap thing
-Switches (24 for my build)
-Keycaps that fit the switches (1 per switch (duh))
-Diodes (1 per switch? ... what type?)
-LED + surface mount resistor (1 per switch IF you want backlighting, resistance value depends on LED and assumes there's 5v on the line)
-Transistor (... also only if you want backlighting? Just one? What type?)
I used a 31 cent transistor, Mouser P/N 512-MPSA29, which should handle up to 40 20mA LEDs.
-Usb microB-to-A cable
-Case (will most likely have to hand-make it)
-Plating (Is this needed? What exactly is it for, just for plate-mounting switches?)
Finally, what do I need to cut the PCB? Pliers? A tiny jigsaw? Should I sand it down?
Please excuse my terribly noob questions, I really am interested in this board.
Thanks a lot, that makes it pretty clear to me. I definitely want one, maybe more if I actually succeed at making one first. Now... to wait, possibly forever.
Edit: You mean you highly recommend I use PCB mounted switches, right? Hmm... from what I've seen they're around 50% more expensive. But then again, I don't think I'll be able to hand-make my own plate.
Would it require a major redesign if I wanted a 7 by 7 keypad? I'm thinking that a couple of them could make up a split layout thing, something like an ergodox.
I'm not good enough to design my own from the ground up.
You can get CAD files for a plate from a couple of sources, such as http://builder.swillkb.com/. There's a few services floating around that would cut a plate for you.
Last time I looked for switches (which was admittedly several years ago), plate mount and PCB mount were exactly the same price. In fact, I found it was easier to buy PCB mount switches and clip off the mounting pins to make them compatible with my plate mount board than to search out the same plate mount switch. Where are you looking that PCB mount is that much more expensive?
You can get CAD files for a plate from a couple of sources, such as http://builder.swillkb.com/. There's a few services floating around that would cut a plate for you.
Last time I looked for switches (which was admittedly several years ago), plate mount and PCB mount were exactly the same price. In fact, I found it was easier to buy PCB mount switches and clip off the mounting pins to make them compatible with my plate mount board than to search out the same plate mount switch. Where are you looking that PCB mount is that much more expensive?
Well, I've also been looking at a DIY mechanical keyboard, so I figured that I'd have to order keycaps and switches from the same store to cut down on shipping (I live in Europe and much of what I'm ordering will be internationally shipped). The shop I was looking at (wasdkeyboards.com) sell 100 cherry mx's for 40$ (plate mounted) and 60$ (PCB mounted). The shop where I'd get my DIY keyboard from (winkeyless.kr) sells 100 for 65$ (PCB mounted) and doesn't sell the other kind. And the other shop I saw (mechanicalkeyboards.com) actually does sell them at the same price now that you mention it (100 for 50$, both kinds).
Where do you suggest I get them from? Nothing about my keyboard shopping list is working out shipping-wise anyway.
with better boards out there now
with better boards out there now
Are there other boards out there with the same/similar form factor now? I'd still like one of these to use as a macro pad or similar, but didn't realize there was anything else out there with the same flexibility in cutting down the PCB to desired size.
If you're aware of anything, please point me in the right direction!
If lets say I decided to learn how to make pcbs, which I have been putting off for years, and made a 6x6 daisy chain-able board with the same dimensions, layout options, and holes as the GH36, would that interest people?
Unfortunately my GH36 is mostly unusable without some rework, but with what I can use i am the digging the 6x6 layout over 7x5.
I'll be ordering a few 6x6 grid sandwich plates to handwire soon.