Model M SSK

[sethk_]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131444642211?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l4448&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI131444642211.N1.S2.M45.R1.TR5

[Altis]

I was hoping nobody would notice... 

I'm only older than it by a couple of weeks.

[sethk_]

I was hoping nobody would notice... 

I'm only older than it by a couple of weeks.

I was bidding on it last night, someone had their autobid on from 105-150. I had the top bid of 152.5 until about noon

[SpaceGhost]

I bought an SSK from the same seller a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately, several keys were quite soggy-feeling with a dismal click. The reason is that the keyboard had been wrapped so tightly in bubble wrap that these keys had been compressed for quite some time, weakening the springs. Not a good thing to do, as it now requires repair to restore the proper sound and feel of the keystrokes.

There were many spots of rust and corrosion on the steel plate, and examining several of the spring barrel exteriors revealed caked-on soiling that is highly unusual IME for any Model M given the design of the key stems and how they shield the spring barrels from contamination.

Lastly, the right Shift key had severe binding when pressed at it right edge.

Not too bad for a skilled refurbisher, but not quite in the nearly-new, hardly-used condition implied by the description in the eBay listing.

[fohat.digs]

but not quite in the nearly-new, hardly-used condition implied by the description in the eBay listing.

I was one of those "lucky ducks" that got one of Cindy's "New-In-Box" SSKs around last Thanksgiving, and although mine was unused, nearly half of the rivets were broken and more than 2/3 of those were at one end, creating a bad situation.

Since I had been debating with myself over whether to hold onto it strictly for a profitable later re-sale or to bring it out and put it to use, I was able to salvage the situation (after making the decision to crack it open) by doing a bolt mod.

Moral of the story: do not assume that little or no use equates to perfect condition.

[SpAmRaY]

That seller has sold a bunch of SSK's unless some of those listings were relisted.

[SpaceGhost]

but not quite in the nearly-new, hardly-used condition implied by the description in the eBay listing.

Moral of the story: do not assume that little or no use equates to perfect condition.

^ Absolutely true.

BTW, I didn't mention the broken rivets (more than a few) in that SSK only because I fully expect that in old Model M's whether they are new or used, as this is caused more by aging and weakening of the plastic than by usage. I assume all old Model M's benefit from a well-done bolt mod, whether they have few or many broken rivets. Sooner or later, these will fail if not replaced by screws. If done properly, there is no degradation of the sound or feel of keystrokes -- although there is a more solid feel at the bottom of the key travel.

Since opening a Model M and removing the keyswitch assembly for photos of the back of the steel and the rivets is more than most eBay sellers are able to do, buying a Model M is usually a dicey affair for buyers who cannot refurbish/repair/bolt-mod them as needed.

Caveat Emptor!

[fohat.digs]

only because I fully expect that in old Model M's whether they are new or used,

"When you are schizophrenic you are never alone."

Now I will be the Devil's advocate and say that my primo, favorite, ultimate, top-shelf Model M, a 1986 vintage 1390131, came to me mildly used, with every single rivet completely intact and strong, about 3 years ago.

But I did a bolt-mod anyway and updated many of the components.

[SpaceGhost]

only because I fully expect that in old Model M's whether they are new or used,

"When you are schizophrenic you are never alone."

Now I will be the Devil's advocate and say that my primo, favorite, ultimate, top-shelf Model M, a 1986 vintage 1390131, came to me mildly used, with every single rivet completely intact and strong, about 3 years ago.

But I did a bolt-mod anyway and updated many of the components.

I too have found a precious few old M's that also had all rivets intact and seemingly strong when probed, but IME that's quite rare. I've been reluctant to bolt mod those, preferring to keep them all-original. But if I find more than 8 or so broken rivets and several weak ones, then I go ahead and do the bolt mod. Next thing I want to try is the Unicomp white latex blankets to see if they make the clicks even crisper without exaggerating any pinging that may be present.

[fohat.digs]

the Unicomp white latex blankets to see if they make the clicks even crisper without exaggerating any pinging

You start walking into a quagmire.

My concept of "ideal" was to use the white latex blanket and 2010 Unicomp spring hammers with a finger-tight bolt mod.

[SpaceGhost]

the Unicomp white latex blankets to see if they make the clicks even crisper without exaggerating any pinging

You start walking into a quagmire.

My concept of "ideal" was to use the white latex blanket and 2010 Unicomp spring hammers with a finger-tight bolt mod.

If this is the one you commented on in an earlier post, it sounded like you were less than pleased with the result. If I interpreted your post correctly, would you attribute any degradation in keystroke properties you experienced to the new blanket, or to the spring/hammer assemblies you installed?

[orihalcon]

I think it could depend on the storage conditions or the specific plastic used in the batch.  All of my new in box LYNK rebranded Model M122's have ZERO broken rivets, though they were manufactured in 1995 and 1996 by Lexmark, making them a few years newer than a lot of the M's out there. Could be they solved the problem at some point.  Haven't really heard of Unicomp ones having bad rivets, but could just be that people don't talk about them.

[Altis]

I've wanted to try a Unicomp to compare with my 1990 Model M, though it has been bolt-modded by the previous owner.

I wonder if Unicomp is still working on the spacesaver... it's been some time now, but I recall they were trying to get a TKL for "Holidays 2014".

I can post the condition of this keyboard when it comes if anyone is interested.

[SpaceGhost]

Haven't really heard of Unicomp ones having bad rivets, but could just be that people don't talk about them.

I have a Unicomp made about 3 years ago, and nearly all of its rivets have failed. It has seen very little use and has been stored in my home with excellent temperature and humidity control. At some point I think they reinforced or somehow changed the plastic compound used for the barrel frame, making it much stiffer and very resistant to bending. It is molded nominally flat and must be bent into the proper curve. This theory is based on my experience with a spare barrel frame I bought from them a while back -- it's extremely stiff and would put tremendous stress on its rivets if bent into that curvature and installed. Let's face it, heat-staked plastic rivets are far less than ideal in this application if long-term durability is required.

[SpaceGhost]

Forgot to mention that my Unicomp with failed rivets is almost impossible to bolt-mod. There's something in the plastic that makes it difficult to drill and very difficult to get the screws to cut threads into the pilot holes. My guess is that the plastic is heavily glass-filled.

[fohat.digs]

it sounded like you were less than pleased with the result.

I am quite pleased with the end results of my Model Ms.

I have totally stock, completely unmodified (1) 1991 beige label, and (1) 1986 1390131, plus a totally modded-out 1986 1390131 and a bolt-modded beige label 1991 SSK.

My recommendations for an "ultimate" mod are "fresh" spring hammers (regardless of manufacture date) and the white latex blanket, with nuts tightened just barely "finger tight" or whatever the equivalent is if you are not using nuts.

[Altis]

Just to add to my post above, I found this from February 24th from Unicomp:
https://m.facebook.com/PCKeyboard/photos/a.461139987260660.101444.401589123215747/841442559230399/?type=1&p=0

Guess a TKL or compact buckling spring is still in the works. Could be great.

[SpaceGhost]

it sounded like you were less than pleased with the result.

I am quite pleased with the end results of my Model Ms.

I have totally stock, completely unmodified (1) 1991 beige label, and (1) 1986 1390131, plus a totally modded-out 1986 1390131 and a bolt-modded beige label 1991 SSK.

My recommendations for an "ultimate" mod are "fresh" spring hammers (regardless of manufacture date) and the white latex blanket, with nuts tightened just barely "finger tight" or whatever the equivalent is if you are not using nuts.

Sorry, I must have misinterpreted your previous remarks about that modded 1390131. Did you notice any improvement in keystroke properties? Do you feel that the white latex blanket increased the intensity or sharpness of the clicks, and what effect -- if any -- did it have on pinging?

When you said "walking into a quagmire" before, in reference to my interest in trying the new blanket, I was mystified.
Can you elaborate a bit? Thanks!

[SpaceGhost]

Just to add to my post above, I found this from February 24th from Unicomp:
https://m.facebook.com/PCKeyboard/photos/a.461139987260660.101444.401589123215747/841442559230399/?type=1&p=0

Guess a TKL or compact buckling spring is still in the works. Could be great.

To add to the anticipation, I have gotten word from on high at Unicomp that the new keyboard "...uses the more traditional layout" and that it really is in development but has been delayed due to some technical issues. Not surprising -- remember this is a small company, not the giant IBM, and has much more limited resources than IBM.

Posted elsewhere, here is the "alternate" design which they were considering before announcing the one in the link you posted. I just hope this is what they picked, if not the original case design:

[SpaceGhost]

I should note that this version has no embedded numpad or NumLk key and would be for those who don't want or need an embedded numpad. There would also (or only, don't know yet) be the traditional version with embedded numpad.

[Altis]

I've been wanting Unicomp to make the TKL version for a while, but I think I like the more compact version even more.

Either way, hope something comes out sooner than later!

[Altis]

Typing on it now. I didn't take it apart entirely to see the state of the metal plate, but the whole thing appears to be in pretty good shape. I can tell some of the rivets are broken (I think I can hear one rattling around inside if I shake the board), but it doesn't affect anything.

Two of the keycaps aren't original as they are the 2-piece (removable caps from the stem piece) while the rest are single-piece units, which I hadn't seen before as my full size M has the two-piece ones.

A few of the keys could feel a bit snappier, and it does seem to sound/feel a little bit grittier (though not much so) than the M that I have. I gave the keys and board a good thorough cleaning just to get the cleaning substance residue off.

Overall happy with it. It was packaged extremely well and shipped quickly. Might try lubing the switch stems to see how it feels.