Handwired Keyboard Project

[paecific.jr]

This keyboard project was born out of the following thought project. First I like mechanical keyboards. Secondly, I hate membrane keyboards. Third, my college only has membrane keyboards. Finally, I need some projects under my belt for an internship. So I decided I would build a keyboard to solve all of these problems at once.

And after much consideration, I decided on making a 60% keyboard with Cherry MX Clears. I want to hand wire it so that I can gain some soldering experience and circuit creation experience. I have started searching for parts. I found that I can buy a ton of stuff on MechanicalKeyboards.com so I will get my teensie, resistors, and switches. I am not sure what I want to do with keycaps yet, so I'm just leaving that in the open. I will also probably buy a custom USB cable that looks better and matches my keycaps.

My question is how do I go about finding a case and a plate that are compatible? I don't want to buy stuff and then see if it works. I'm looking for something in either black or dark gray. For materials, I think I should go with aluminum, but I have a Model F at home, and a Das at work and I feel like the steel feels better. I'd really settle for either.

What are your thoughts?

[Tactile]

Just about all of the 60% stuff you'll find is designed to be compatible with the Pok3r. Mount screw locations, USB port location, the hole in the bottom of the case for DIP switch/programming button access are all sort of a de-facto standard. Just do your shopping & you can return here to double-check if the specific items will work together but I can't offhand think of any 60% case/plate combo which wouldn't work.

[paecific.jr]

That is really encouraging! I was thinking about using this case and plate combo:
Case: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1002
Plate: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1443

[suicidal_orange]

That's a 60% case but the plate is for a TKL board so it has an extra three columns for the arrows etc and an F row at the top - it's not going to fit.

[paecific.jr]

Well that would be a problem. What would you recommend for a 60% plate?

[suicidal_orange]

I've just had look (not helped by being in the wrong country) and the only plate I found was this one but that's an example of what you don't want - note the big holes in the enter area and bottom row.  These plates are designed to be used with a PCB to add strength but for handwiring you ideally want individual switch sized holes so they are perfectly spaced, or at least smaller holes where you put the switch one side or the other depending which size keycap you want to use (the gaps can be plugged with glue or similar, though the result won't be as pretty as getting the perfect plate!)

A couple of other thoughts though while I'm here - you'll need a case with room for your controller and wires (the obvious place for the controller is under the spacebar but the sloped case doesn't leave much room there)  Also poker style cases are designed to be screwed to the PCB so if you don't have one you'll need to use spacers so it can screw to the plate.

I nearly suggested a custom skeleton case with just two plates and spacers (pic below) but that would have open sides so not ideal for carrying round, and it will probably cost more...



Does any of that help?!

[dilbertprogrammer]

Depending on your timeline, a 60% stainless steel case/plate combo will become available for purchase late next month (Dec 2016).  There was a group buy recently, but I understand some extra units will be available for purchase for folks who missed out on the GB. 

[Tactile]

There's also these which are both a case & plate.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Steel-plate-GH60-mechanical-keyboard-poker2-electro-coating-steel-plate-gaming-keyboard-FACEU-keyboard-metal-case/32581326508.html

[paecific.jr]

I've just had look (not helped by being in the wrong country) and the only plate I found was this one but that's an example of what you don't want - note the big holes in the enter area and bottom row.  These plates are designed to be used with a PCB to add strength but for handwiring you ideally want individual switch sized holes so they are perfectly spaced, or at least smaller holes where you put the switch one side or the other depending which size keycap you want to use (the gaps can be plugged with glue or similar, though the result won't be as pretty as getting the perfect plate!)

A couple of other thoughts though while I'm here - you'll need a case with room for your controller and wires (the obvious place for the controller is under the spacebar but the sloped case doesn't leave much room there)  Also poker style cases are designed to be screwed to the PCB so if you don't have one you'll need to use spacers so it can screw to the plate.

I nearly suggested a custom skeleton case with just two plates and spacers (pic below) but that would have open sides so not ideal for carrying round, and it will probably cost more...

Does any of that help?!

It does help, I would like to have a custom case made, but cost and skill are problems there.

Depending on your timeline, a 60% stainless steel case/plate combo will become available for purchase late next month (Dec 2016).  There was a group buy recently, but I understand some extra units will be available for purchase for folks who missed out on the GB. 

I am trying to get in touch with them, because that looks perfect for what I need.

There's also these which are both a case & plate.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Steel-plate-GH60-mechanical-keyboard-poker2-electro-coating-steel-plate-gaming-keyboard-FACEU-keyboard-metal-case/32581326508.html

Although I love that, I wouldn't feel comfortable carrying it around in a case every day.

Do you guys think I would have better luck/more options with a TKL?

[Tactile]

A lot of folks with something specific in mind just go to Big Blue Saw. There are lots of folks here who know more about it than I. Here's an example...

https://www.bigbluesaw.com/big-blue-saw/big-blue-saw-special-info/waterjet-and-laser-cut-keyboard-plates.html

[paecific.jr]

Wouldn't this plate work?
https://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-plate-1?variant=10596342919

[dorkvader]

If you aren't afraid to DIY a case and cut up a plate, I have a rosewill plate (and case and PCB actually) you can have, but it's 104 so don't be afraid to DIY!

That sentraq plate should work, but you will have to figure out how to properly position the Plate / switches into the case, since it wasn't design to be mounted, just "sit" in the case on top of the PCB. It would make things easier to make a plate with some area around the outside you can put screws and standoffs through.

Personally, I'd see if you can make a plate/case as one unit, where you fold the ends of the plate over to make the case legs. the DOXKB did that first (I believe, though pictures did not survive) and it was more recently done with the infinity keyboard. It'd really show off the direct wiring job you do.

[paecific.jr]

If you aren't afraid to DIY a case and cut up a plate, I have a rosewill plate (and case and PCB actually) you can have, but it's 104 so don't be afraid to DIY!

That sentraq plate should work, but you will have to figure out how to properly position the Plate / switches into the case, since it wasn't design to be mounted, just "sit" in the case on top of the PCB. It would make things easier to make a plate with some area around the outside you can put screws and standoffs through.

Personally, I'd see if you can make a plate/case as one unit, where you fold the ends of the plate over to make the case legs. the DOXKB did that first (I believe, though pictures did not survive) and it was more recently done with the infinity keyboard. It'd really show off the direct wiring job you do.

Would that travel well in a keyboard sleeve? I plan on taking it to class each day so I want it to be safe. I'm probably overly paranoid.

[suicidal_orange]

Wouldn't this plate work?
https://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-plate-1?variant=10596342919

'Perfect for handwiring' but right at the bottom 'no plate mount stabilisers' - it's an option but you'll need Enablers for all the stabilised keys.  It also doesn't have a split right shift (not a problem but this is a popular place to put the FN key without changing anything else)

[paecific.jr]

Wouldn't this plate work?
https://sentraq.com/products/60-aluminum-plate-1?variant=10596342919

'Perfect for handwiring' but right at the bottom 'no plate mount stabilisers' - it's an option but you'll need Enablers for all the stabilised keys.  It also doesn't have a split right shift (not a problem but this is a popular place to put the FN key without changing anything else)

So those stabilizers just sit underneath and get soldered on? Do they wire the same?

[suicidal_orange]

They are PCBs, you solder them to the switch and then put PCB mount stabilisers in them as you would a normal PCB.

[paecific.jr]

That makes sense. The pictures on the website aren't the best, do you have a guide to a build with them so I can see them used?

[paecific.jr]

I saw this on ebay while I was looking at a vintage alps keyboard. Would this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182343692796?ul_noapp=true

[paecific.jr]

I also found this while looking around
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-ANSI-Costar-Stabilizers-Anodized-Aluminum-Positioning-Board-Plate-Support-For-GH60-60-Keyboard-DIY/32736623172.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.219.XxlwAk

[TalkingTree]

I saw this on ebay while I was looking at a vintage alps keyboard. Would this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182343692796?ul_noapp=true

I'm no ALPS expert but I believe that case only supports Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers.

[paecific.jr]

I saw this on ebay while I was looking at a vintage alps keyboard. Would this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182343692796?ul_noapp=true

I'm no ALPS expert but I believe that case only supports Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers.

Oh sorry, I don't expect it to support alps, I'm also looking at some alps boards for Christmas and stumbled upon this. Would this work for my hand wired project though?

[TalkingTree]

I saw this on ebay while I was looking at a vintage alps keyboard. Would this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182343692796?ul_noapp=true

I'm no ALPS expert but I believe that case only supports Cherry PCB mounted stabilizers.

Oh sorry, I don't expect it to support alps, I'm also looking at some alps boards for Christmas and stumbled upon this. Would this work for my hand wired project though?

I wouldn't recommend an universal plate for a hand wired project. Switches would slide laterally.

[paecific.jr]

Okay, I continued my searching and found this http://1upkeyboards.com/product_info.php?products_id=310. I think this is what I will be getting, they say that it works with stabilizers and hand wiring! I should be good right? I just need to order resistors, wire, switches, and keycaps?

[TalkingTree]

I think this is what I will be getting, they say that it works with stabilizers and hand wiring! I should be good right?

It reads Cherry plate stabilizers so I guess it would work, in case of doubt, email them.

I just need to order resistors, wire, switches, and keycaps?

You actually need diodes, not resistors. Resistors are for LEDs. You need 1N4148 diodes for antighosting and you can actually source wire from dead electronics. I use to salvage wire from dead PSUs and broken DIN or PS/2 cables. You also need a controller to solder your wires to. Teensy 2.0 or Teensy++ 2.0, according to the amount of keys you have, should do.

Now I'm intrigued, why would you do such a massive job when you can buy a prefabricated PCB?

[paecific.jr]

I think this is what I will be getting, they say that it works with stabilizers and hand wiring! I should be good right?

It reads Cherry plate stabilizers so I guess it would work, in case of doubt, email them.

I just need to order resistors, wire, switches, and keycaps?

You actually need diodes, not resistors. Resistors are for LEDs. You need 1N4148 diodes for antighosting and you can actually source wire from dead electronics. I use to salvage wire from dead PSUs and broken DIN or PS/2 cables. You also need a controller to solder your wires to. Teensy 2.0 or Teensy++ 2.0, according to the amount of keys you have, should do.

Now I'm intrigued, why would you do such a massive job when you can buy a prefabricated PCB?

Yes, I misnamed them. I will probably use new wire just so it looks really nice, I plan on carrying it to class every day and showing it to my classmates.

And for why. I am a computer engineer and am needing some hardware experience to get internships. I also am interested in keyboards. Thus I decided to hand wire my own. I am beginning to look at hand wiring an 8 bit cpu over the summer.

[TalkingTree]

I am a computer engineer

Oh well, then you would know better than me the difference between them.

and am needing some hardware experience to get internships. I also am interested in keyboards. Thus I decided to hand wire my own. I am beginning to look at hand wiring an 8 bit cpu over the summer.

How about you design your own PCB then?

[paecific.jr]

and am needing some hardware experience to get internships. I also am interested in keyboards. Thus I decided to hand wire my own. I am beginning to look at hand wiring an 8 bit cpu over the summer.

How about you design your own PCB then?

Next year... They actually don't teach any hardware freshman year, its all programming.

[dantan]

You actually need diodes, not resistors. Resistors are for LEDs. You need 1N4148 diodes for antighosting and you can actually source wire from dead electronics.

If I make my own 104 keyboard, I should buy 104 1N4148 diodes right? Do the leds need diodes?

I also have a few more noob questions.

-If I use a Teensy 2++ instead of Teensy 2 controller is there space for wiring the lock lights?

- lets say I managed to do everything right. How do you keep all the switches stuck to the plate? I am afraid that if I pull out a keycap and the switch comes out, the whole diode structure could be torn apart.

-When soldering isn't there a danger of melting all the solder joints when you are doing one solder joint? The heat from one diode will transmit to other diodes right? I am still quite new.

-I haven't decided what the bottom row of my keyboard should be like. There are many possible layouts and space bar widths. Has anyone ever tried cutting a plate where the entire bottom row is mounted only at the top and bottom of the switch? That means no metal at the sides of any switch. That should allow me to slide the keyswtiches. That way I can try out 6 and 6.25 and 7 spacebars and different widths of control and alt keys.

Thank you anyone who can give advice.

[Tactile]

If I make my own 104 keyboard, I should buy 104 1N4148 diodes right? Do the leds need diodes?

A diode for each switch. The LEDs require resistors, not diodes. The value of the resistor (in Ohms) depends on the specifications of the LED you choose.

[dantan]

A diode for each switch. The LEDs require resistors, not diodes. The value of the resistor (in Ohms) depends on the specifications of the LED you choose.

Then if I use 3.3v leds?

LEDs have two leads. Which lead to solder to the resistor then?

[Tactile]

A diode for each switch. The LEDs require resistors, not diodes. The value of the resistor (in Ohms) depends on the specifications of the LED you choose.

Then if I use 3.3v leds?

LEDs have two leads. Which lead to solder to the resistor then?

(source voltage - LED voltage) divided by LED current = resistor value ... So...

You've used the example of 3.3v LED - that's not enough info. We also need the current rating of the LED but, for this example we'll say 20ma (.020 amps).

Our source (USB) voltage is 5 volts - 5 volts minus 3.3 volts equals 1.7

1.7 divided by LED current (20ma, remember?) 1.7 / .020 equals 85 ohms for the resistor

So we end up with a value of 85 ohms. Now, many times you'll come up with a value which isn't a standard value for a resistor. (You can look up "standard resistor values" yourself.)

Anyway, you need to find a resistor of a value close to our 85 number. A little off one way or another won't hurt. And keep in mind that LEDs today are designed to be bright - as bright as they can get them and often too bright for a keyboard. So, when choosing a resistor go with a little larger value instead of smaller. So a 100 ohm resistor here would be about right.

Resistors are also rated by the amount of power (in Watts) they carry. Just stick with 1/4 watt for this use.

So, you'd shop for a bag of 100 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors. Try one at first and, if it's still too bright, just increase the resistor value. You can go to any larger value with no problem.

Pretty simple, eh?

[Tactile]

Oh, and the resistor can be connected to either lead - makes no difference.

[dantan]

Oh, and the resistor can be connected to either lead - makes no difference.

But there is a direction or polarity for the resistor right? I remember seeing that they had some kind of arrow on the body.

I have also noticed that people who talk about hand wiring never seem to talk about securing the key switches. But sometimes you change keycaps and the keycap pulls up the switch from the plate. So what do you use to fix the key switches to the plate so that they don't easily get pulled off?

Or do you just stick the keycaps and never change the keycaps.

Sorry for these noob questions. but I am afraid also that the plate won't be perfectly cut so the key switches may be loose.

[Tactile]

But there is a direction or polarity for the resistor right?

No

As to the mounting, here you can see how the switch clips to the plate (the pic on the right):

[dantan]

But there is a direction or polarity for the resistor right?

No

As to the mounting, here you can see how the switch clips to the plate (the pic on the right):

(Attachment Link)

Thank you but that was not my question.

Even on a keyboard with well cut plate and soldered down, sometimes a keycap is too tight and when you pull off the keycap the switch is also pulled up. A friend of mine once pulled two keys off his Steelseries. One was just the keystem but the other was the entire switch!!! He had to learn soldering to put the switch back, and because the contacts were broken on the pcb he also had to learn to wire.

My fear is that after spending time to hand wire the keyboard, I pull up a keycap and the whole thing comes up as well. That will probably tear up the entire hand wired matrix as well!