Want to switch out springs on Poker II, what are my options?

[AuRinBei]

My customized Poker II has basically been my dream board for the past few years, but now I kind of want to try a lighter switch than MX Black. What is my best option? I'm thinking about just buying lighter springs. Also, since I will need to de-solder everything, is there an aftermarket plate I could buy that would allow me to pop the switches open without having to de-solder? That way it wouldn't be such a huge commitment and I could swap the springs out much more easily if I wanted to experiment.

Oh, I just thought of something else. While my Poker II is basically my dream board, it's only flaw is that there is no DIP switch for swapping control and caps lock. If I have it open to swap springs, would it be possible to re-wire those two keys on the hardware level so I don't have to use autohotkey anymore?

[pab]

I know this isn't what you asked for, but what you're describing is basically a Poker II with MX Reds. It might be easier to just buy that.

[ideus]

There are several universal sixty plates that fits the Poker, as it is standard ANSI. MD runs drops for them frequently and you can get some at the classifieds. Regarding the swap of the control key, I would not mess with the PCB if I were you. A simple key remapping do that with no risks for your PCB, it may not be the same but works for most users.


I suggest you to consider building your own 60 keyboard. There are multiple options of sixty PCBs that are programmable like the GH60 and its clones (Aliexpress/ebay) or the FaceW. You can build the exact layout you want and program them with TMK or QMK to fit your exact needs. Some of the aftermarket plates allow top switch removal that will give you maximum flexibility.

[AuRinBei]

There are several universal sixty plates that fits the Poker, as it is standard ANSI. MD runs drops for them frequently and you can get some at the classifieds. Regarding the swap of the control key, I would not mess with the PCB if I were you. A simple key remapping do that with no risks for your PCB, it may not be the same but works for most users.


I suggest you to consider building your own 60 keyboard. There are multiple options of sixty PCBs that are programmable like the GH60 and its clones (Aliexpress/ebay) or the FaceW. You can build the exact layout you want and program them with TMK or QMK to fit your exact needs. Some of the aftermarket plates allow top switch removal that will give you maximum flexibility.

You know, I'm probably just going to do this. I have a Tex aluminum case already. I'm thinking maybe a GH60 Satan and one of those plates you linked. Any problems with that?

[TerryMathews]

You would be much better off to buy a Satan GH60 or its equiivalent, a universal 60% PCB, build and swap then sell off your Poker vs desoldering. Plus the universal plate will support switch top opening making future swapping relatively easy.

[Tactile]

You know, I'm probably just going to do this. I have a Tex aluminum case already. I'm thinking maybe a GH60 Satan and one of those plates you linked. Any problems with that?

If you don't need backlighting, I vote for a GH60 Rev C.

[ideus]

There are several universal sixty plates that fits the Poker, as it is standard ANSI. MD runs drops for them frequently and you can get some at the classifieds. Regarding the swap of the control key, I would not mess with the PCB if I were you. A simple key remapping do that with no risks for your PCB, it may not be the same but works for most users.


I suggest you to consider building your own 60 keyboard. There are multiple options of sixty PCBs that are programmable like the GH60 and its clones (Aliexpress/ebay) or the FaceW. You can build the exact layout you want and program them with TMK or QMK to fit your exact needs. Some of the aftermarket plates allow top switch removal that will give you maximum flexibility.

You know, I'm probably just going to do this. I have a Tex aluminum case already. I'm thinking maybe a GH60 Satan and one of those plates you linked. Any problems with that?

The three items should match in between. Add your preferred switches and moding this thing will be as easy as it can gets. Just be sure to get a pair of switch opening tools too.


I think the GH60 is a better PCB compared with the Satan. The only thing in favor of the last is that it appears to include SMD resistors along with diodes, so you can install in-switch LEDs while the GH60 does not allow it, but for a few keys, as long as you install your own pass trough resistors at those few locations that allow them.

[AuRinBei]

Yeah I'll probably get the Rev C. I never used backlighting when I had it anyway. Thanks for your help guys.

[ideus]

Yeah I'll probably get the Rev C. I never used backlighting when I had it anyway. Thanks for your help guys.

Post it when you get it done, or never happen. 

[AuRinBei]

Ok, will do. I'll have a chance to put everything together weekend after next. I guess I'll finally have to clean my keycaps then lol.

[DKrause]

I think the GH60 is a better PCB compared with the Satan. The only thing in favor of the last is that it appears to include SMD resistors along with diodes, so you can install in-switch LEDs while the GH60 does not allow it, but for a few keys, as long as you install your own pass trough resistors at those few locations that allow them.

As a DIY KB Newb, the  impression I got web surfing was the the GH60 Satan was the newer, improved GH60. Is this incorrect? Is there a history of the GH60 board somewhere?

Thanks!

[ideus]

I think the GH60 is a better PCB compared with the Satan. The only thing in favor of the last is that it appears to include SMD resistors along with diodes, so you can install in-switch LEDs while the GH60 does not allow it, but for a few keys, as long as you install your own pass trough resistors at those few locations that allow them.

As a DIY KB Newb, the  impression I got web surfing was the the GH60 Satan was the newer, improved GH60. Is this incorrect? Is there a history of the GH60 board somewhere?

Thanks!

The history is everywhere and it is quite a long one. The satan is a knockoff manufactured by someone in China with no connection with the original GB's people. You can take your chances, get some and try them for yourself. Fact-wise I have read about it having a weak USB socket, that may reduce its lifetime, but it has full backlighting support. Again, you can try it by yourself.

[Tactile]

I think the GH60 is a better PCB compared with the Satan. The only thing in favor of the last is that it appears to include SMD resistors along with diodes, so you can install in-switch LEDs while the GH60 does not allow it, but for a few keys, as long as you install your own pass trough resistors at those few locations that allow them.

As a DIY KB Newb, the  impression I got web surfing was the the GH60 Satan was the newer, improved GH60. Is this incorrect? Is there a history of the GH60 board somewhere?

Thanks!

The history of the real GH60 is here.

[_haru]

If you want the option to go for full backlighting, I'd recommend the AMJ60. Very well built and a nice board in general. You can find the PCB on Taobao for pretty cheap.

[DKrause]

Well dang, that was quite a story of the GH60. Imagine my surprise to discover that today, TechKeys has "real" rev C GH60s in stock, and it should be in my hands in three days. I almost feel guilty that it's become this easy...

Thanks for the info!

[AuRinBei]

So I have the board and other components in hand, I installed drivers using flip (the board is now recognized as ATmega32U4), and I'm basically ready to build. I want to flash it and test it before soldering anything, but I'm having trouble designing layers. I'm using http://kb.sized.io/ Easy AVR because it seems better but the following question still remains. I want to have 3 layers, but I don't see how you program a key to bring you back to layer 0 from any of the other layers if you have toggled to that layer. Once I make the keymap, what is the easiest way to flash it to my board?

Hey I figured it out Easy AVR apparently has a flashing feature (such a cool program), and I just included an FN key on the toggleable FN2 layer that takes the board back to default when released. Also guess who forgot a part, and guess what part that was? I'll give you a hint. It was me, and stabilizers.

[ideus]

What PCB did you get?

[Hyde]

I know this isn't what you asked for, but what you're describing is basically a Poker II with MX Reds. It might be easier to just buy that.

LOL my exact thought too, I've tried spring swap lately and it didn't turn out how I expected (the swap worked, but the result wasn't good).

Refer to this:  https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=90205.msg2455019#msg2455019

My suggestions is that save yourself the headache and just get Cherry MX Red. 

[AuRinBei]

What PCB did you get?

I got a GH60 rev C, and it's been over a month since I've been able to work on this. And now I have a new problem that I should have identified before but somehow didn't. There are 5 pin options for left shift, and the only the left and right ones work. The middle one, which I need, does nothing. I'm getting incredibly frustrated. Nothing so far has been the board's fault, and this might not be either, but it looks like it will be another 2 weeks before I can do anything about it unless I can get something done today. What reason, other than a hardware issue, would there be for the right shift pins not working?

[Tactile]

What PCB did you get?

I got a GH60 rev C, and it's been over a month since I've been able to work on this. And now I have a new problem that I should have identified before but somehow didn't. There are 5 pin options for left shift, and the only the left and right ones work. The middle one, which I need, does nothing. I'm getting incredibly frustrated. Nothing so far has been the board's fault, and this might not be either, but it looks like it will be another 2 weeks before I can do anything about it unless I can get something done today. What reason, other than a hardware issue, would there be for the right shift pins not working?

Which shift is the problem, right or left? For the right shift you probably need to swap the right shift and the FN in the programming. It's been a while since I worked with my GH60 Rev C but I remember having to do this to get the right shift to work as expected. There is the option to have a split right shift/FN key and I had to flip/flop them in the programming to put the right shift where I wanted it.

[SpAmRaY]

What PCB did you get?

I got a GH60 rev C, and it's been over a month since I've been able to work on this. And now I have a new problem that I should have identified before but somehow didn't. There are 5 pin options for left shift, and the only the left and right ones work. The middle one, which I need, does nothing. I'm getting incredibly frustrated. Nothing so far has been the board's fault, and this might not be either, but it looks like it will be another 2 weeks before I can do anything about it unless I can get something done today. What reason, other than a hardware issue, would there be for the right shift pins not working?

It could be programming issue or maybe a missing/bad diode.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[AuRinBei]

What PCB did you get?

I got a GH60 rev C, and it's been over a month since I've been able to work on this. And now I have a new problem that I should have identified before but somehow didn't. There are 5 pin options for left shift, and the only the left and right ones work. The middle one, which I need, does nothing. I'm getting incredibly frustrated. Nothing so far has been the board's fault, and this might not be either, but it looks like it will be another 2 weeks before I can do anything about it unless I can get something done today. What reason, other than a hardware issue, would there be for the right shift pins not working?

Which shift is the problem, right or left? For the right shift you probably need to swap the right shift and the FN in the programming. It's been a while since I worked with my GH60 Rev C but I remember having to do this to get the right shift to work as expected. There is the option to have a split right shift/FN key and I had to flip/flop them in the programming to put the right shift where I wanted it.

It's the right shift. But I made my own layers already. I am noticing now that when I hold down another key and what is supposed to be right shift, it occasionally gives me a random letter, usually z, but I've seen x and s as well. Holding down the non-working right shift and alt will give me z about a quarter of the time. I'm guessing this isn't a good sign.

[Tactile]

I had to look at my source code 'cause I couldn't remember. Try swapping KC_##K3C and KC_##K3D to get your right shift to work.

What tool are you using? Are you compiling from source, using Easy AVR, or something else?

[AuRinBei]

I used Easy AVR. I don't recognize that notation that you used.

Where can I find KC_##KC3? All I have is a .dat and a .hex file. The hex file is hex (duh), and the dat file is, at least in notepad++, largely gibberish.

[Tactile]

The Easy AVR experts hang out here. Try asking in that thread.