Building Phantom Hardware and Firmware Mods

[MJ45]

So my phantom's all soldered up (except the switches) and is running TMK firmware. I just used jumper wire to confirm all the keys worked, and the greys ones in this picture aren't responding.. Any ideas what could be causing this and what I can do to fix it? Also worth noting I've tried the two firmwares in the OP of this topic, and the phantom is running ANSI 150

Show Image

It looks like col0 (esc,1,capslock,Lshift,ctrl) are not connected to the controller. You can find a Phantom build guide in the DT Wiki. i would check for continuity from the pin on the controller back to that col0 and the switch pins and diodes. That is also one of pins that have to be added to the Teensy. I would also do the same for the other non working ones.

[Photekq]

It looks like col0 (esc,1,capslock,Lshift,ctrl) are not connected to the controller. You can find a Phantom build guide in the DT Wiki. i would check for continuity from the pin on the controller back to that col0 and the switch pins and diodes. That is also one of pins that have to be added to the Teensy. I would also do the same for the other non working ones.

The connections all seem absolutely fine

[Photekq]

Added a bit of solder to all the teensy connections.. Now all the keys work except caps lock. No idea why that single key isn't working :/

All fixed!

[MJ45]

Added a bit of solder to all the teensy connections.. Now all the keys work except caps lock. No idea why that single key isn't working :/

All fixed!

Great News! I had to reheat and re flow the solder joints on a Teensy to get to work also.

[James35]

I would like to build a phantom with a layout like the plum 96.

I'm assuming the Teensy can handle the extra keys correct?  What plate would I purchase to go along with the Phantom PCB?

[jdcarpe]

I would to build a phantom with a layout like the plum 96.

Show Image

I'm assuming the Teensy can handle the extra keys correct?  What plate would I purchase to go along with the Phantom PCB?

But Phantom PCB only has 3 columns on the right, not 4.

[James35]

Oh crud.  I overlooked that. 

[Pacifist]

has there been a GB yet for 1.5x 1.x .5x 7x phantom with 1.75x left shifts plate?

[jdcarpe]

has there been a GB yet for 1.5x 1.x .5x 7x phantom with 1.75x left shifts plate?

You mean right shift? No. You can always have a one-off plate made.

[Pacifist]

has there been a GB yet for 1.5x 1.x .5x 7x phantom with 1.75x left shifts plate?

You mean right shift? No. You can always have a one-off plate made.

Whoops yea right shift. Thanks for letting me know, I will probally get a one off plate made if I truely want to get a tkl

[Findecanor]

But Phantom PCB only has 3 columns on the right, not 4.

All plates should have holes for the keys in-between the arrow keys and the 6-key cluster, though. They are also fully supported by the PCB.

[James35]

Are there any advantages of building my own phantom + Teensy over a Duky Shine 3 TKL?   I can't seem to find much information on the capabilities of the Teensy.  I'm hoping that the fact that we can make our own firmware mods would be an advantage. 

[SpAmRaY]

Are there any advantages of building my own phantom + Teensy over a Duky Shine 3 TKL?   I can't seem to find much information on the capabilities of the Teensy.  I'm hoping that the fact that we can make our own firmware mods would be an advantage. 

If you want the backlighting features offered in the ducky shine you are wasting your time with a phantom, however if you want a completely customizable layout and don't care about backlighting then by all means the phantom is the way to go.

[James35]

I do want backlighting, but I don't need the flashy options.  Brightness control is all I'm interested in.
Can I can get more layers with the Teensy than I could with the Ducky?  For example, could I use something like "Function Q" to register as a unique keystroke in which I could then use AutoHotKey to identify and use it? Or is Function limited to certain keys?

[Pacifist]

I do want backlighting, but I don't need the flashy options.  Brightness control is all I'm interested in.
Can I can get more layers with the Teensy than I could with the Ducky?  For example, could I use something like "Function Q" to register as a unique keystroke in which I could then use AutoHotKey to identify and use it? Or is Function limited to certain keys?

imo with metalliqaz's software any programable board>anything stock

[James35]

Can the Teensy do anything more than the Ducky Shine 3?  With the Teensy, does anyone know if I can apply the Fn key toward any key or is it limited like most keyboards?

[SpAmRaY]

Can the Teensy do anything more than the Ducky Shine 3?  With the Teensy, does anyone know if I can apply the Fn key toward any key or is it limited like most keyboards?

The teensy is fully programmable. The ducky shine 3 is not programmable at all. Also it seem you want backlighting, the phantom does not offer backlighting.

[Findecanor]

The Teensy is not a keyboard controller really.. It is a microcontroller - a very small, not very capable computer - that has been made to work as a keyboard controller when it is a part of the Phantom. The magic is in what the pins are connected to and how it is programmed. The software on a microcontroller is called "firmware".

Your best bet for custom features without doing any C programming would be to use the Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper. I suggest that you ask in that thread about the specific features that you are interested in.

Another option would be to get a CM Storm Quickfire Rapid or Filco tenkeyless and replace the controller with a programmable one. The replacement controllers can also run the Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware. That way you won't have to build the entire keyboard, but you won't be able to customize the layout or switches (not without difficulty). Be quick though, because it looks like the Quickfire Rapid was recently discontinued and stores have only old stock.

[James35]

Thanks guys. This is very helpful!  I love the functionality of the Easy AVR. Looks like I won't be able to do backlighting though unless Frosty Flake works with the CM Quickfire Rapid I.

[megaforce]

Anyone have the specs for the diodes or know where I can order more of them?

Edit: Found it. If anyone needs it for future reference: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N4148/?qs=i4Fj9T%2foRm8RMUhj5DeFQg%3d%3d&gclid=CjgKEAjwzcWcBRCat43fy9e5i3ASJADXOBwu6qHa2_KmRD8XsItWcffpue_uyzabE_G9TrXSBmVbTvD_BwE

[mastercontrol90]

Well some "necro-posting" here! What are the exact "dimensions" of the phantom pcb? And about the leds, are those necessary or you can omit putting them on the pcb? I need to know those things for a custom keyboard, thanks!

[gaunt]

So I figured I'd see if I have more luck with necro-posting than the previous poster; I don't think my problem deserves a new topic, it's pretty dumb.

I build my Phantom a few weeks ago, and while it was fine in the beginning, entire rows of keys became erratic after a while, becoming periodically unresponsive or chattering. Since rows and not individual switches were affected, I managed to fix it by sucking off most of the solder on the Teensy joints, and resoldering. One row didn't get fixed though, the uppermost one, so I tried to do the same procedure again at the B5 joint... and ended up sucking up the leg. I guess in that case, the problem was that the B5 leg wasn't properly soldered to the Phantom, so desoldering it on the Teensy side made it come loose.

Can this be fixed without desoldering every switch to access the topside of the PCB? I assume no, but I've been wrong about a lot when it comes to soldering lately.

[Data]

So I figured I'd see if I have more luck with necro-posting than the previous poster; I don't think my problem deserves a new topic, it's pretty dumb.

I build my Phantom a few weeks ago, and while it was fine in the beginning, entire rows of keys became erratic after a while, becoming periodically unresponsive or chattering. Since rows and not individual switches were affected, I managed to fix it by sucking off most of the solder on the Teensy joints, and resoldering. One row didn't get fixed though, the uppermost one, so I tried to do the same procedure again at the B5 joint... and ended up sucking up the leg. I guess in that case, the problem was that the B5 leg wasn't properly soldered to the Phantom, so desoldering it on the Teensy side made it come loose.

Can this be fixed without desoldering every switch to access the topside of the PCB? I assume no, but I've been wrong about a lot when it comes to soldering lately.

Inspect the Teensy and PCB closely to make sure you didn't pull any pads.  Assuming you didn't, just buy another pin and solder it from both sides.  They're cheap -- you'll pay more for shipping than for the pins.

[gaunt]

So I figured I'd see if I have more luck with necro-posting than the previous poster; I don't think my problem deserves a new topic, it's pretty dumb.

I build my Phantom a few weeks ago, and while it was fine in the beginning, entire rows of keys became erratic after a while, becoming periodically unresponsive or chattering. Since rows and not individual switches were affected, I managed to fix it by sucking off most of the solder on the Teensy joints, and resoldering. One row didn't get fixed though, the uppermost one, so I tried to do the same procedure again at the B5 joint... and ended up sucking up the leg. I guess in that case, the problem was that the B5 leg wasn't properly soldered to the Phantom, so desoldering it on the Teensy side made it come loose.

Can this be fixed without desoldering every switch to access the topside of the PCB? I assume no, but I've been wrong about a lot when it comes to soldering lately.

Inspect the Teensy and PCB closely to make sure you didn't pull any pads.  Assuming you didn't, just buy another pin and solder it from both sides.  They're cheap -- you'll pay more for shipping than for the pins.

Thanks, I guess that's a no.  I'm not sure if it's my cheap equipment or what, but even desoldering a single switch is a huge pain for me: there's always a tiny bit of solder left behind that is damn hard to remove. So I guess I'll have to sell the keyboard in parts.

[Data]

So I figured I'd see if I have more luck with necro-posting than the previous poster; I don't think my problem deserves a new topic, it's pretty dumb.

I build my Phantom a few weeks ago, and while it was fine in the beginning, entire rows of keys became erratic after a while, becoming periodically unresponsive or chattering. Since rows and not individual switches were affected, I managed to fix it by sucking off most of the solder on the Teensy joints, and resoldering. One row didn't get fixed though, the uppermost one, so I tried to do the same procedure again at the B5 joint... and ended up sucking up the leg. I guess in that case, the problem was that the B5 leg wasn't properly soldered to the Phantom, so desoldering it on the Teensy side made it come loose.

Can this be fixed without desoldering every switch to access the topside of the PCB? I assume no, but I've been wrong about a lot when it comes to soldering lately.

Inspect the Teensy and PCB closely to make sure you didn't pull any pads.  Assuming you didn't, just buy another pin and solder it from both sides.  They're cheap -- you'll pay more for shipping than for the pins.

Thanks, I guess that's a no.  I'm not sure if it's my cheap equipment or what, but even desoldering a single switch is a huge pain for me: there's always a tiny bit of solder left behind that is damn hard to remove. So I guess I'll have to sell the keyboard in parts.

Sorry, I didn't fully answer your question.  In my defense it was very early.     

You can only pass solder from one side, presumably because of the switch plate.  So that definitely presents a problem.  But if you can get the solder to melt/flow all the way through both PCBs, and assuming your Teensy is as close as it can possibly get to touching your Phantom PCB, then you might be able to force enough solder in from the Teensy (bottom) side all the way through.  The goal is to get as much solder in there as possible so it connects to the pad & pin on the opposite Phantom side.  Get a hot iron and work quickly.  It's worth a try.

The tricky part will be holding the new pin in place while you solder.  Maybe needle-nose vice grips will work? 

Wait -- Did you use the black plastic spacers on the pins in your Teensy?  If you did you are SOL.   

[gaunt]

Sorry, I didn't fully answer your question.  In my defense it was very early.     

You can only pass solder from one side, presumably because of the switch plate.  So that definitely presents a problem.  But if you can get the solder to melt/flow all the way through both PCBs, and assuming your Teensy is as close as it can possibly get to touching your Phantom PCB, then you might be able to force enough solder in from the Teensy (bottom) side all the way through.  The goal is to get as much solder in there as possible so it connects to the pad & pin on the opposite Phantom side.  Get a hot iron and work quickly.  It's worth a try.

The tricky part will be holding the new pin in place while you solder.  Maybe needle-nose vice grips will work? 

Wait -- Did you use the black plastic spacers on the pins in your Teensy?  If you did you are SOL.   

I did not use the spacers, so I'll give that a try. Actually, I was pretty careful when I soldered the Teensy onto the PCB, so I wonder if what might have happened was that I heated up the pin to the point that even solder on the PCB side became liquid when I tried to resolder the Teensy side, and that the PCB side solder got sucked up as well... Thanks again!

[Data]

Yeah, safe bet that's what happened.  Now just do that again, but in reverse.