Clueboard 66% PCB - Pre-soldered Underlight Available!

[JaccoW]

Here is a teaser of what I plan on doing with the board. It's not soldered yet just sort of assembled with the switches popped in.

First thoughts:
- I need new smaller screws.
- This will be one of my most colorful boards yet.
- Unless I can find an Alps spacebar I might just pop in a cherry switch for that key
- It's a good thing Alps DCS Infinity came with an extra set of mods with different legends for that second shift.
- Quiet Clicks are really quiet. Even compared to MX Clears 
- I need more Cherry stabs
- My colleagues are going to think this thing is freaky. )

[skullydazed]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:

Show Image

This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.

What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?

[StormyMonday]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:

Show Image

This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.

What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?

I was just curious about the stabilizer arrangement for the spacebar. There are no holes in the plate for the short style Alps clips (as used for the other keys) and the holes that are there look to be about 3x too wide for the long style Alps clips. Is the plate cut for Costar?

[skullydazed]

Unfortunately I can't do much about Alps in that regard. If I add switch cutouts to support split shift the stabilizers will have nowhere to clip into. The next iteration will support more bottom row options, however.

Yea, I noticed the PCB is compatible with many different Alps layouts, but the plate is the limiting factor at this stage.  Even if you do create an Alps plate with more layout options, we are limited by the Alps keycap availability for various layouts on the shift row and bottom row.

I'm also wondering if someone could mess around with Swill's plate building tool to make their own Alps plates that are compatible with all the layouts on your PCB.

The alps plates I'm sending out now look like this:

Show Image

This supports all the bottom rows, but I haven't been able to find a way to support more switch locations on the other rows. If a switch cutout overlaps a stabilizer cutout, it means you can't use a stabilized key there at all.

What is the arrangement for the Alps spacebar?

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here. Are you wondering which sizes work?

I was just curious about the stabilizer arrangement for the spacebar. There are no holes in the plate for the short style Alps clips (as used for the other keys) and the holes that are there look to be about 3x too wide for the long style Alps clips. Is the plate cut for Costar?

Ah, ok. Yeah, that's the scheme that both Tai Hao and Matias caps use. Alps stabs on the short keys and costar for the spacebar. My stabilizer packs support this.

[merlin64]

Thankfully, neither the ground nor the VCC was the pad that got ripped! It seems to work! I'm unable to get any of the top row LEDs to shine though. They flash once really quick when I plug in the USB cable but no matter how much solder I add, I can't seem to get any of them to light like the bottom row. I really hope the missing pad isn't causing some issues.

[ccarlitos2]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[yinzer]

Don't give up on those LEDs! The end results are rad. 

[StormyMonday]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Out of stock?

Now I feel like a douche, 'cause I've been cursing my mailman every afternoon this week!   

[skullydazed]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?

[StormyMonday]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?

Looks like your site is jacked up.

When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.

When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.

[ccarlitos2]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?

Yes it was

[merlin64]

For those of you who end up messing up a pad like me, this is what you can do....it's not perfect...results in other issues, but close enough. If ground is top left, you can solder a wire from top right to bottom left of the next LED in the chain. Use a multimeter to double check.

Here are some photos

Changing Colors: Everything on the bottom row to the first two on the top seem to light up correctly, the next set of LEDs are showing different color ranges. The other way this looks acceptable is when I choose the mode that just cycles through all the colors.



One color: I'm not sure I can tolerate the above case, so I'll stick with single color mode, though for some reason i have one LED that is waaay off.



Alright I hope that helps someone in the future, but hopefully no one makes this same dastardly mistake. Honestly, I think the best solution is to just buy a whole new PCB. It's not very aesthetically pleasing and pretty much defeats the whole purpose of why I chose clear acrylic.

[skullydazed]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?

Looks like your site is jacked up.

When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.

When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.

I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.

Are you sure that cases is showing you plates, rather than the top plate (which is probably misleading?)

[skullydazed]

For those of you who end up messing up a pad like me, this is what you can do....it's not perfect...results in other issues, but close enough. If ground is top left, you can solder a wire from top right to bottom left of the next LED in the chain. Use a multimeter to double check.

Here are some photos

Changing Colors: Everything on the bottom row to the first two on the top seem to light up correctly, the next set of LEDs are showing different color ranges. The other way this looks acceptable is when I choose the mode that just cycles through all the colors.

(Attachment Link)

One color: I'm not sure I can tolerate the above case, so I'll stick with single color mode, though for some reason i have one LED that is waaay off.

(Attachment Link)

Alright I hope that helps someone in the future, but hopefully no one makes this same dastardly mistake. Honestly, I think the best solution is to just buy a whole new PCB. It's not very aesthetically pleasing and pretty much defeats the whole purpose of why I chose clear acrylic.

Glad you found a way to get that running!

You may want to change which LED's that jumper runs between, it looks like it joins the chain one LED too early, and that may be why that one LED is a weird color?

[merlin64]

Any suggestions as to which LED I should chain together? (It's the LED closest to the shift key that has a messed up pad)

[StormyMonday]

Hey! Any timeline as to when the pcbs are gonna be back in stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're still in stock. Are they showing as out of stock for you?

Looks like your site is jacked up.

When I click on plates, it only shows the Alps plate.

When I click on cases, it shows both plates, but no cases.

oday.

I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.

Are you sure that cases is showing you plates, rather than the top plate (which is probably misleading?)

I'm sure - scouts honor!

The good news is that it is working properly today.  ;  )

[ccarlitos2]

Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard? so just not use the switch plate? With MX/Gateron Switches if that matters. Also I noticed it said the PCB now supports a LED in the esc position. Does this imply the rest of the board will not be able to do LEDs?

[redbanshee]

Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?

If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.

Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking

[ccarlitos2]

Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?

If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.

Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking

Awesome thanks for the answer is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[redbanshee]

Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?

If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.

Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking

Awesome thanks for the answer is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

The partial plate would be the mods, spacebar and you would have to do the number row on the plate too now that im thinking about it (so it would be strong enough). You would have to get it custom.

[ccarlitos2]

Just out of curiosity is it possible to do a pcb mount clueboard?

If your talking about the acrylic case, you could do a partial plate otherwise no. On the acrylic case the switch plate positions and holds the pcb in place. I think its the same with the aluminum case because there is not actually any screw mounting holes on the pcb at all.

Cluboard v2 pcb has LED support on the arrow cluster, esc, caps and pg up. They will all work in tandem if thats what your asking

Awesome thanks for the answer is the partial plate just the mods? Is that already on the site or would that have to be custom made?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

The partial plate would be the mods, spacebar and you would have to do the number row on the plate too now that im thinking about it (so it would be strong enough). You would have to get it custom.

Hmm okay! Thanks for the help!

[faxe]

Clueboard package at the customs office, picking it up on monday, Massdrop Shipping Email concerning case, it all comes together...

[salasource]

I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.

Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?

[faxe]

Got everything! Now on to assembling! Edit: How do I find out if my LED are 2 or 3 Volt? I don't know which resistors to buy..

[Dernubenfrieken]

Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too

Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?

[StormyMonday]

Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too

Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?

http://clueboard.co/support/#/support/errata/

[Dernubenfrieken]

Is there any way to get Easy Avr Keymap on the clueboard? I use it for my other keyboards, just curious if I can use it for this too

Also my shift key seems to not work with the default layout, do I just need to install new firmware keymap or what?

http://clueboard.co/support/#/support/errata/

Thanks!

[pwade3]

So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.

Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.

I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:

"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".

When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.

Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.

[skullydazed]

So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.

Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.

I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:

"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".

When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.

Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.

There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.

[pwade3]

So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.

Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.

I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:

"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".

When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.

Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.

There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.

dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
Bootloader and code overlap.
Use --suppress-bootloader-mem to ignore
../../tmk_core/rules.mk:424: recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4

[skullydazed]

So I finally got around to assembling my Clueboard.

Everything was going well, all my switches are working and don't seem to have any issues, the jumper worked fine for my left shift. I was getting started with the underglow LEDs and I wanted to flash the appropriate firmware, but I cannot get it to work.

I've got qmk set up properly I believe, but when I run a make dfu, the last thing it says is:

"recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4".

When I do just a make, it builds fine. I pressed the reset button on the PCB before doing it.

Does a keymap that doesn't match with the layout on my board prevent the firmware from transferring? If so then I know my problem. If not then I'm lost.

There should be some lines above that will give us a clue. Look for the first line that says "dfu-programmer atmega32u4" and past from there until the "Error 4" line.

dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2.hex
Bootloader and code overlap.
Use --suppress-bootloader-mem to ignore
../../tmk_core/rules.mk:424: recipe for target 'dfu' failed
make: *** [dfu] Error 4

Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.

Code: [Select]

$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex

I'll dig into what's going on.

[pwade3]

Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.

Code: [Select]

$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex

I'll dig into what's going on.

Let me know if there's any other info you need from me! 

[skullydazed]

Interesting. I just pulled in all the latest changes from QMK, looks like something increased the size of the hex.

Code: [Select]

$ ls -s clueboard2.hex ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
144 ../../../hexes/clueboard2.hex
168 clueboard2.hex

I'll dig into what's going on.

Let me know if there's any other info you need from me! 

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

[pwade3]

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.

I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?

Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything. 

[Wannabe]

I unfortunately had 2 of the pads on LED_3 lift, so only 2 of my LEDs (1 and 2) would light up. I gave up on trying to fix the surface mount LEDs on the PCB...no amount of solder or re-positioning would get them all to work, and with one of them with lifted pads, it's not worth the effort and time for me to continue troubleshooting. I disabled the underglow LEDs using the keyboard shortcuts completely and instead purchased this LED strip, cut it in half to make 2 strips just like the surface mount LEDs, reconnect the 2 halves with soldered jumper wires, and added a header extension so I can disconnect it when I don't want it on and can have the controls outside of the keyboard case. Its a workaround solution, and does mean I'm using an extra USB cable, so the board actually has 2 cables instead of the LEDs being driven by the PCB, but it works and I have the desired purple underglow I was looking for.



Here's a normal pic:


I hope to take some better pictures this weekend of the whole thing, including my ghetto LED setup. The 2nd picture does not really do justice to the lovely purpleness of the keyboard....it's hard to tell but the acrylic is purple too. I'm currently using the Left Shift from the Ducky Shine ABS Purple keycap set as my right shift...waiting on a 2.25u Purple 8-bit heart key from KeyPop.

I also used these bumper/fender fasteners as feet. They were the only thing that could work as feet I could find in purple. Again a little ghetto, but they actually work quite well and are a nice size for a nice slight incline. I 3d printed little balls to go in the center of them to make them more stable but ended up not needing them. The fasteners work great as is adhered to the bottom of the board. You can't see the actual feet in the picture below, but it should give an idea of what the incline is like.



My only issue now is that both my Clueboard 1.0. and my Clueboard 2.0 keyboards both sometimes are not recognized at the Win10 login screen when I boot my computer. I have to unplug and plug them back in to be able to type my password. Doesn't happen every time, but it does happen enough on both of them for me to raise an eyebrow.

[merlin64]

My sympathies, those surface mounted LEDs are quite the hassle to solder in correctly. I'm considering buying a new PCB, but I figure I'll wait until 3.0 and re-use this current PCB in a FC660M shell if I stumble across one.

[skullydazed]

I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.

In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.

[merlin64]

I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.

In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.

Thanks skullydazed. Fatter pads would definitely help. The hardest part for me was actually keeping my hands still while soldering. I was considering putting a dab of glue on the bottom just to keep it from moving.

[StormyMonday]

I can sympathize. The next revision of the PCB will have larger pads there to make soldering that easier. If you're lifting pads it sounds like you may have your iron too hot and/or you may be pressing too hard. A light touch works better here.

In the meantime I've been investigating other options. My reflow skillet wasn't getting hot enough to reflow these boards, so I'm looking at ways I can make soldering them on cheap enough to offer the service.

Modded toaster ovens seem to be all the rage, these days. It seems to me the Bpiphany uses a toaster oven, but of course his PCBs are much smaller than the Clueboard.

[skullydazed]

Modded toaster ovens seem to be all the rage, these days. It seems to me the Bpiphany uses a toaster oven, but of course his PCBs are much smaller than the Clueboard.

Size is definitely the hardest problem to solve. My skillet just barely fits a clueboard, it doesn't fit the tk78 or the monarch pcbs at all, so those I have to use air or iron. A toaster oven big enough for the clueboard is pretty expensive, but I've been watching craigslist and the local charity shop.

[skullydazed]

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.

I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?

Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.

I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0

I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.

[StormyMonday]

This is good news!   

I took the Clueboard soldering challenge last night and added the RGB LEDs. I'm anxious to verify that everything works.

[pwade3]

How do I upload just the hex?

[skullydazed]

How do I upload just the hex?

Try these commands out:

Code: [Select]

dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase --force
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash clueboard2_with_underlight.hex
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset


[skullydazed]

I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:

http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard

The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.

https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator

Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.

[StormyMonday]

I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:

http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard

The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.

https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator

Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.

I don't know where you find the time!

This is going to be very handy. Building a keymap isn't all that difficult, but it can be VERY frustrating if you misplace a comma. Do you also plan to add LED configuration, as with the Jig On tool?

[skullydazed]

I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:

http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard

The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.

https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator

Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.

I don't know where you find the time!

This is going to be very handy. Building a keymap isn't all that difficult, but it can be VERY frustrating if you misplace a comma. Do you also plan to add LED configuration, as with the Jig On tool?

I do want to add more than just keyboard layout to the tool, but that will come after I get the basic functionality done.

[StormyMonday]

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.

I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?

Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.

I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0

I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.

F.Y.I.

I blew this *.hex into my clueboard tonight and everything seems to work. The icing on the cake is that all of my RGB LEDS are functioning, too!

The LEDs are stuck on orange, so all I need to do now is to read up on how to control them. I suppose you could say that I've been stuck in the dark ages, 'cause this is the first board that I've ever owned that has more than three LEDs on it (Scroll Lock, Caps Lock and Num Lock).

TL:DR - It looks like you're on the right track, Skully. Thanks for your efforts and keep up the good work!!!   

[salasource]

I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.

Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?

No info about MX plate options?

[skullydazed]

I took the MX plate off the site for now, since it's out of stock.

Any info when MX plate will come back to stock?

No info about MX plate options?

Nothing to report right now. I will be ordering more, but I haven't yet.