I am very interesting in variant with a removable stabs, in this case, you can make a thicker plate, have you considered the possibility of increasing the thickness? It is possible to do up to 5mm, i’m think i’m not only one, who love additional weight of it ;)
Very interested in two or three plates (price depending) with a custom layout.
Also interested in a custom plate depending on price
That looks amazing! I'm looking to get some for my VE.A. But need to customize some parts for ALPS switches. Does anyone know who can help modify the base .dxf file I have in hand? Many thanks
Custom plates should be near the price of the base but depends also on how bigger it will be or how many more cutsWhen would we be able to submit a file for a quote?
Custom plates should be near the price of the base but depends also on how bigger it will be or how many more cutsWhen would we be able to submit a file for a quote?
Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
Are you offering smaller sizes of 40% or numpad options?
Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
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Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
I could make one. If youre the same one from Slack, PM there or here is fine. I'll make you one.
Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
I could make one. If youre the same one from Slack, PM there or here is fine. I'll make you one.
I already made several tada plates last year when I was doing a few Tada69 conversionsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/wN4zkWN.jpg)
Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
I could make one. If youre the same one from Slack, PM there or here is fine. I'll make you one.
I already made several tada plates last year when I was doing a few Tada69 conversionsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/wN4zkWN.jpg)
hey bud, mind to share the file with me too :)
There will be (probably) a "tested" directory that will include the two base 60 keebs cutted and pre-tested by me.
But there will be also a "custom" directory where i will put some designs not-tested by me (files made by me or other people) so if people want can use these or start their .dxf from these files
Anyone got a tada68 plate design lol
I could make one. If youre the same one from Slack, PM there or here is fine. I'll make you one.
I already made several tada plates last year when I was doing a few Tada69 conversionsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/wN4zkWN.jpg)
hey bud, mind to share the file with me too :)
There will be (probably) a "tested" directory that will include the two base 60 keebs cutted and pre-tested by me.
But there will be also a "custom" directory where i will put some designs not-tested by me (files made by me or other people) so if people want can use these or start their .dxf from these files
Pretty sure we were already talking about yesterday in the MKUK Discord but sure I'll shoot some files when I get to my home PC
Is someone making an M65-A plate?
What about EXENT? Some people who want brass plates couldn't get them.
...yes, I know it hasn't shipped yet.
Any updates on this GB? Starting in December or Jan?
Any updates on this GB? Starting in December or Jan?
Should start the next week and this time for real, so will be november ;D
I asked reconsiderit about the file for the Southpaw, since his GB isn't offering brass. He said he didn't design the plate, but he'll pass along my request. If he can get it, I'll probably be in for plate!
Any update on this?
Any update on this?
Sorry i forgot to update here, added the update here.
Brass GB still happening, i had to change the producer for a better one so it took time, hopefully the GB will start this week if everything goes well (the week that is coming, but can't 100% confirm it). Custom layouts confirmed, coated brass confirmed, previous price should be confirmed as well depending on the last quote to coat the brass.
Is this still happening soon? ;D
Solid update, thanks for that.
Out of curiosity, could you show an uncoated plate so we can get an idea?
Thanks.
Great update! ;D
Have you decided what sizes you will be using for switch holes? I'll probably be designing my own plate and want to make sure my holes aren't too tight or too loose either.
Great update! ;D
Have you decided what sizes you will be using for switch holes? I'll probably be designing my own plate and want to make sure my holes aren't too tight or too loose either.
Not decided yet, but will be for sure something between 13.85 and 14mm, still have to test the new samples.
Actually i was thinking to not offer any BASE plate but just let people do their own or take my files if they can't, most of files untested, except for the 60% plates that will be tested in the next days.
e.g. turning this GB into a full custom plates GB and for who can't do a .dxf will be able to just get some of the files that i will do and put in a drive.
Great update! ;D
Have you decided what sizes you will be using for switch holes? I'll probably be designing my own plate and want to make sure my holes aren't too tight or too loose either.
Not decided yet, but will be for sure something between 13.85 and 14mm, still have to test the new samples.
Actually i was thinking to not offer any BASE plate but just let people do their own or take my files if they can't, most of files untested, except for the 60% plates that will be tested in the next days.
e.g. turning this GB into a full custom plates GB and for who can't do a .dxf will be able to just get some of the files that i will do and put in a drive.
14 +/- 0.05 mm is the official Cherry spec (specsheet here: http://switches-sensors.zf.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Keymodule_MX_EN.pdf (http://switches-sensors.zf.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Keymodule_MX_EN.pdf))
If you use the direct output of swills tool, you can see that they default to the looser end of the tolerance band (switch cutouts on a swills tool output is 14.05mm square)
Please do not use 13.85mm, that is out of spec.
Great update! ;D
Have you decided what sizes you will be using for switch holes? I'll probably be designing my own plate and want to make sure my holes aren't too tight or too loose either.
Not decided yet, but will be for sure something between 13.85 and 14mm, still have to test the new samples.
Actually i was thinking to not offer any BASE plate but just let people do their own or take my files if they can't, most of files untested, except for the 60% plates that will be tested in the next days.
e.g. turning this GB into a full custom plates GB and for who can't do a .dxf will be able to just get some of the files that i will do and put in a drive.
14 +/- 0.05 mm is the official Cherry spec (specsheet here: http://switches-sensors.zf.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Keymodule_MX_EN.pdf)
If you use the direct output of swills tool, you can see that they default to the looser end of the tolerance band (switch cutouts on a swills tool output is 14.05mm square)
Please do not use 13.85mm, that is out of spec.
Knowing the manufacturer machine's kerf would help by any chance?
In my experience (using two different sheet metal fabs, UK-based), the standard practice is to give them the EXACT measurement and tell them to take into account the kerf on THEIR end, using their own adjustments. This is for several reasons:
- Each sheet metal fab may employ multiple laser machines, each with different specs/requirements to suit different jobs based on bed size and different material requirements (pretty standard practice). By giving them the EXACT measurements that you expect the final cut to be, you allow THEM to adjust the measurements based on the particular machine they're going to use on the day
- Giving them the EXACT measurements at input shift the responsibility to the manufacturer to make sure that the end products come out how YOU expect it. There's absolutely no use in trying to take care of the kerf adjustments yourself, even if you have a sample from them, because they may use a different machine to produce your next order, based on their availble production slots/factory planning/other logistical reasons
- Don't forget Cherry switches themselves comes with their own tolerance stack. If you follow the official specs, and allow the sheet metal fabs to adjust the kerfs on their own terms, that means that the plate comes out correct. I do not care at all whether or not the switch makes a nice sound when you insert it into the plate, I care about whether or not the plate is made to spec. Sure your 13.85mm cutout will work with some switches (may be slightly tight), but keeping in mind that some batches of switches might be at the upper end of the tolerance band, and using an out-of-spec cutout may cause issues for the odd switches that might be perfectly conforming according to Cherry specs but does not fit into your smaller cutout footprint
In my experience (using two different sheet metal fabs, UK-based), the standard practice is to give them the EXACT measurement and tell them to take into account the kerf on THEIR end, using their own adjustments. This is for several reasons:
- Each sheet metal fab may employ multiple laser machines, each with different specs/requirements to suit different jobs based on bed size and different material requirements (pretty standard practice). By giving them the EXACT measurements that you expect the final cut to be, you allow THEM to adjust the measurements based on the particular machine they're going to use on the day
- Giving them the EXACT measurements at input shift the responsibility to the manufacturer to make sure that the end products come out how YOU expect it. There's absolutely no use in trying to take care of the kerf adjustments yourself, even if you have a sample from them, because they may use a different machine to produce your next order, based on their availble production slots/factory planning/other logistical reasons
- Don't forget Cherry switches themselves comes with their own tolerance stack. If you follow the official specs, and allow the sheet metal fabs to adjust the kerfs on their own terms, that means that the plate comes out correct. I do not care at all whether or not the switch makes a nice sound when you insert it into the plate, I care about whether or not the plate is made to spec. Sure your 13.85mm cutout will work with some switches (may be slightly tight), but keeping in mind that some batches of switches might be at the upper end of the tolerance band, and using an out-of-spec cutout may cause issues for the odd switches that might be perfectly conforming according to Cherry specs but does not fit into your smaller cutout footprint
That's what i did and also the producer always said me there is no kerf for them because their software will calculate it. Aka from both the old producer and the new producer i was said to provide the original file because the Kerf was calculated by the machine. Now hopefully tomorrow i will measure correctly the sample and will see if the software actually calculated the kerf correctly.
About the switch clipping and making a nice sound when clipping it was just to say, it is tight, it doesn't move at all (sometimes is bad, sometimes is good, i prefer tight). Again, the default 14mm is in the standard file i provided and will be in the every file i will do (tested or not tested), for a simple reason, 14mm always works, 14mm on the file will result in a usable plate even if there is any error or misscalculated kerf by the machine
What I said is that if the ACTUAL hole on the sheet (not the file) is 13.85mm, in my experience it will be good and tight, even considering any error by the switch, never meant that 13.85mm hole must be on the file, where any extreme error or misscalculated kerf might cause it to be for example 13.6mm (definetely not good).
Hopefully tomorrow i will find out if the kerf was automatically calculated by the software, like i was said, and will provide an update
Pro tip: you can use the top part of the calipers to measure internal diameters
Pro tip: you can use the top part of the calipers to measure internal diameters
I know ahahah, the back part. Even if you see few pics i spent like 2hours measuring it and the back part is what i used more (what i call back is what you call top but you clearly mean the part to measure the inside of a hole).
The problem by measuring with the bottom part is that if you insert let's say a 20mm measure in a 19.85mm hole, you can still make it fit easily because that part will scretch the brass slightly (calipher is pointed and sharp SS). Also pretty hard to keep the calipher perfectly aligned when measuring with the bottom part of the calipher. Even measuring the same exact point might have a 0.3mm variance when measuring with that part, at least for me with that calipher. That's why i measured with all the parts of the calipher (except with the part to measure the deepth)
If it isn't clear, yeah i used that part mostly) ;D
https://i.imgur.com/lcx4Zov.png
Pro tip: you can use the top part of the calipers to measure internal diameters
I know ahahah, the back part. Even if you see few pics i spent like 2hours measuring it and the back part is what i used more (what i call back is what you call top but you clearly mean the part to measure the inside of a hole).
The problem by measuring with the bottom part is that if you insert let's say a 20mm measure in a 19.85mm hole, you can still make it fit easily because that part will scretch the brass slightly (calipher is pointed and sharp SS). Also pretty hard to keep the calipher perfectly aligned when measuring with the bottom part of the calipher. Even measuring the same exact point might have a 0.3mm variance when measuring with that part, at least for me with that calipher. That's why i measured with all the parts of the calipher (except with the part to measure the deepth)
If it isn't clear, yeah i used that part mostly) ;D
https://i.imgur.com/lcx4Zov.png
Haha, good to know. It always irks me a little when people use calipers incorrectly :D
That said, everything seems to be to spec. Good too hear! Would love to get this thing on the road once everything is nailed down.
As for the stabiliser cutout, 7mm is sensible. On my own drawings I tend to err on the generous side and spec 7.15mm wide holes, for personal preference, and they come out just fine on the 1800 plates that I had made in the past.
Elastic deformation of the plate when you force it with the jaws of the caliper isn't really gonna mean anything in the grand scheme of things (probably in the handful of microstrains). It is extremely unlikely that you will work the plate to its plastic deformation using any sort of reasonable hand force, and if you do, it's likely that you're stressing the calipers beyond its design limits in the first place. Use the small jaws for internal dimensions like they're intended to, otherwise you just introduce additional parallax errors when you try and line it up like you are doing with the large jaws.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/a6tIRuL.png)
Would a 2u switch/stab cut out like this be OK in a custom plate? I'm worried the 1.4mm section could be too thin and fragile to manufacture.
I'm hoping to use a cut out like this for SMK switches since they have clips at the sides rather than at the front and back like Cherry.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/a6tIRuL.png)
Would a 2u switch/stab cut out like this be OK in a custom plate? I'm worried the 1.4mm section could be too thin and fragile to manufacture.
I'm hoping to use a cut out like this for SMK switches since they have clips at the sides rather than at the front and back like Cherry.
Legit question, this is one of the things that i can't say for sure now but will tell more during the GB, this is something that i have to ask to the producer (along with many other questions).
AFAIK from previous experiences with laser cut services, it is recommended to not let things smaller than the thickness of the material on the file, because the laser might burn that part, but in your case we are really close to the material thickness (1.4mm vs 1.5mm) so i think it will work without problems. For sure don't do a 0.3mm feature, but this seems ok to me (still I will tell you something more precise when I will have a better answer)
will you ship to asia ? south east asia ?
Other than asking for an update, I'd like to know if it's also possible to have some engravings.
not totally sure if it is possible but i ask.Much obliged.