Author Topic: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)  (Read 858488 times)

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Offline obviouslygene

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3550 on: Fri, 13 April 2018, 13:33:49 »


You're not the first to report that problem.
Is there a safe way for me to remove the underglow led's? I don't use them and they seem to be more trouble than anything else.
[/quote]

dang. thats bad i dont use backlighting as well.

Offline pixelpusher

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3551 on: Fri, 13 April 2018, 15:58:57 »
anyone have any issues with the jc65? i cant seem to turn BL off.
bottom row of leds do not seem to go off.

You're not the first to report that problem.
Is there a safe way for me to remove the underglow led's? I don't use them and they seem to be more trouble than anything else.

You could just desolder them.  Or email keyclack support for a replacement. 

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3552 on: Sun, 15 April 2018, 23:42:52 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.
« Last Edit: Mon, 16 April 2018, 13:22:45 by Photoelectric »
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Offline merlin64

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3553 on: Wed, 18 April 2018, 16:31:48 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.

You can also use QMK now for both the QMK native board and the ps2avrgb board.
Use https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT to make your keymaps

Download the required Drivers at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_driver_installer/releases
Download QMK Toolbox at: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox/releases

and flash the hex file made from QMK Configurator.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3554 on: Wed, 18 April 2018, 17:08:34 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.

You can also use QMK now for both the QMK native board and the ps2avrgb board.
Use https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT to make your keymaps

Download the required Drivers at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_driver_installer/releases
Download QMK Toolbox at: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox/releases

and flash the hex file made from QMK Configurator.

Oh that's interesting, thanks a lot for the tip.
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
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Offline sirholden

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3555 on: Fri, 20 April 2018, 04:28:45 »
Trying to contact Jchan for some time now, I would appreciate it if he would reply to my emails.
« Last Edit: Fri, 20 April 2018, 04:32:58 by sirholden »

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3556 on: Fri, 20 April 2018, 09:02:41 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.

You can also use QMK now for both the QMK native board and the ps2avrgb board.
Use https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT to make your keymaps

Download the required Drivers at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_driver_installer/releases
Download QMK Toolbox at: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox/releases

and flash the hex file made from QMK Configurator.

Follow up question about the QMK configurator options for available functions, as it does say "These docs are for the QMK version of the PCB"
https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT

Are all those functions going to be compatible with the PS2AVRGB PCB?  Specifically the various RGB LED modes, like hue, saturation, etc.
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
- Keyboard Case Painting Tips -
- Join Mechanical Keyboards photography group on Flickr -

Offline LightningXI

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3557 on: Fri, 20 April 2018, 09:11:55 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.

You can also use QMK now for both the QMK native board and the ps2avrgb board.
Use https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT to make your keymaps

Download the required Drivers at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_driver_installer/releases
Download QMK Toolbox at: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox/releases

and flash the hex file made from QMK Configurator.

Follow up question about the QMK configurator options for available functions, as it does say "These docs are for the QMK version of the PCB"
https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT

Are all those functions going to be compatible with the PS2AVRGB PCB?  Specifically the various RGB LED modes, like hue, saturation, etc.
If you have a PS2AVRGB PCB, then you want to be looking at Bootmapper Client.

This is a helpful guide: https://www.massdrop.com/talk/1392/programming-kbd-keyboards-via-bootmapper-client

It's applicable to all Bootmapper client boards, really.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk


Offline Photoelectric

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3558 on: Fri, 20 April 2018, 09:13:18 »
That's the one I ended up using, just checking if there's indeed an alternative method.  Thanks again.
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
- Keyboard Case Painting Tips -
- Join Mechanical Keyboards photography group on Flickr -

Offline naut

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3559 on: Fri, 20 April 2018, 12:33:57 »
Since kbdlounge site is down, is there another source for reprogramming software for the JC65 PCB?  Also anyone remember off-hand what the key combination is to enable in-switch LEDs?

edit: problem solved.  Programming software is here: http://blog.winkeyless.kr/183   "LED mode" function controls in-switch LEDs.

You can also use QMK now for both the QMK native board and the ps2avrgb board.
Use https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT to make your keymaps

Download the required Drivers at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_driver_installer/releases
Download QMK Toolbox at: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox/releases

and flash the hex file made from QMK Configurator.

Follow up question about the QMK configurator options for available functions, as it does say "These docs are for the QMK version of the PCB"
https://config.qmk.fm/#/jc65/v32u4/LAYOUT

Are all those functions going to be compatible with the PS2AVRGB PCB?  Specifically the various RGB LED modes, like hue, saturation, etc.

Yes rgb led modes, hue, saturation all work on the QMK port for the ps2avrgb pcb. The only thing i couldn't get working was the brightness levels of the led backlighting. Only on/off for now.

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/jc65/v32a/keymaps/naut. My layer 4 has a working example.

Offline sroop

  • Posts: 91
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3560 on: Fri, 27 April 2018, 16:06:05 »
Is there any fix out there for a led that is stuck on green? I found a few similar posts but I was unable to find an update with a resolution...

Offline dubious

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3561 on: Mon, 30 April 2018, 18:37:47 »
Is there any fix out there for a led that is stuck on green? I found a few similar posts but I was unable to find an update with a resolution...

reflowing the solder usually fixes that, or you might have to replace the LED

Offline jchan94

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3562 on: Wed, 02 May 2018, 20:01:56 »
Is there any fix out there for a led that is stuck on green? I found a few similar posts but I was unable to find an update with a resolution...

If one is stuck, usually reflowing it will help (4 points around led). If you can't resolve it, then we can ship you a replacement. Just email support@keyclack.com with your order information, and we'll get you sorted.

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For extra plates / weights, unfortunately, we weren't able to produce the PC plates due to some supply issue. But, we do have the silver / gold / black plates+weights.

As promised, for those who participated in R1, you can receive these to swap or add on to your current build.

Here is the form you can fill out: https://goo.gl/forms/pfnQGoQvgB9letof1 ; for the parts, we have them in currently, but they will most likely ship 5/8 or 5/9.

I'll also be sending 1 email for this to R1 participants after this as well.

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Offline pon10

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3563 on: Sun, 13 May 2018, 23:49:18 »
If anybody is in the need for a space grey r1 :eek:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=95603

Offline Bambino

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3564 on: Sun, 13 May 2018, 23:54:44 »
Ever since I moved to my new place, ESD has been a problem with my keyboard--identical set up, same keyboard I've been using for a few years now, properly grounded.  Never before in my previous apartments has it been a problem, so I don't know what's going on here--still trying to figure it out.  (Previous apartment had full room carpeting where my keyboards were connected, and it was never a problem despite wearing any types of socks or having a space heater drying out air to almost zero humidity).  At some point I thought a USB cable with a very chunky ferrite choke helped in the new place, so I ordered nice looking replacements with ferrite chokes, which unfortunately turned out to be quite small.  With the small choke cable, I get maybe 30%-40% of ESD occurrences (again anecdotally) than with my old fancy sleeved USB cable with no choke.  Going to swap to the big choke ugly gray cable again soon, as with it I had no ESD issues at all for about 3 weeks (basically the whole duration of using it).  Moral of the story: if you do happen to have one of those heavy duty mini B USB cables with chunky ferrite chokes, try them out with your keyboard.
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Offline Jedi

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3565 on: Mon, 14 May 2018, 08:46:47 »
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would you mind posting a pic of your fix for those experiencing the same issue?  Particularly the area of the USB shield for those that want to do the same?


Offline LightningXI

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3566 on: Mon, 14 May 2018, 08:49:42 »


Ever since I moved to my new place, ESD has been a problem with my keyboard--identical set up, same keyboard I've been using for a few years now, properly grounded.  Never before in my previous apartments has it been a problem, so I don't know what's going on here--still trying to figure it out.  (Previous apartment had full room carpeting where my keyboards were connected, and it was never a problem despite wearing any types of socks or having a space heater drying out air to almost zero humidity).  At some point I thought a USB cable with a very chunky ferrite choke helped in the new place, so I ordered nice looking replacements with ferrite chokes, which unfortunately turned out to be quite small.  With the small choke cable, I get maybe 30%-40% of ESD occurrences (again anecdotally) than with my old fancy sleeved USB cable with no choke.  Going to swap to the big choke ugly gray cable again soon, as with it I had no ESD issues at all for about 3 weeks (basically the whole duration of using it).  Moral of the story: if you do happen to have one of those heavy duty mini B USB cables with chunky ferrite chokes, try them out with your keyboard.
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would also appreciate some pictures

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk


Offline Bael_Zharon

  • Posts: 27
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3567 on: Sat, 19 May 2018, 15:24:41 »
Hello!

 I just started having some issues with my M65-A (QMK pcb) this morning, but I have no idea what caused it. There's some weird behavior -- the left Windows key acted as Alt. Left alt does nothing. Capslock and Ctrl switched. Backspace and \ switched. Everything else fine. My other layers work (that don't involve the aforementioned keys), so it's not like the PCB was reset or anything.

Here's what I tried:
  • Unplugged cable, plugged back in
  • Different cable
  • Restarted computer
  • Re-flashed board
  • Checked Windows keyboard language settings

 I recently purchased it from /r/mm.  When it arrived, the capslock was soldered for the stepped key, so I had to desolder and move it over one spot. This was about a month ago at this point, so I had been using it off and on, so something like 10ish hours of use.

The only recent change was a new Pexon cable. I received it in the mail yesterday, plugged it in, and played games for 5-6 hours. No issues, worked perfectly. I got in bed and forgot to turn off the LEDs, but was too lazy to get up, so I left them on overnight.

I emailed the guy I purchased it from and he said he hadn't experienced the issue and I also sent an email to KeyClack a few hours ago.

Anyone have any similar issues?

Thanks for your time.

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3568 on: Sat, 19 May 2018, 16:59:30 »
Hello!

 I just started having some issues with my M65-A (QMK pcb) this morning, but I have no idea what caused it. There's some weird behavior -- the left Windows key acted as Alt. Left alt does nothing. Capslock and Ctrl switched. Backspace and \ switched. Everything else fine. My other layers work (that don't involve the aforementioned keys), so it's not like the PCB was reset or anything.

Here's what I tried:
  • Unplugged cable, plugged back in
  • Different cable
  • Restarted computer
  • Re-flashed board
  • Checked Windows keyboard language settings

 I recently purchased it from /r/mm.  When it arrived, the capslock was soldered for the stepped key, so I had to desolder and move it over one spot. This was about a month ago at this point, so I had been using it off and on, so something like 10ish hours of use.

The only recent change was a new Pexon cable. I received it in the mail yesterday, plugged it in, and played games for 5-6 hours. No issues, worked perfectly. I got in bed and forgot to turn off the LEDs, but was too lazy to get up, so I left them on overnight.

I emailed the guy I purchased it from and he said he hadn't experienced the issue and I also sent an email to KeyClack a few hours ago.

Anyone have any similar issues?

Thanks for your time.

Did you try resetting EEPROM then reflash?

Offline Bael_Zharon

  • Posts: 27
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3569 on: Sun, 20 May 2018, 03:14:19 »
Did you try resetting EEPROM then reflash?

I didn't try that before, so I spent the last few hours trying to figure out how to do that. I used "flip" and tried, but it didn't work. I think you might have me on the right track though, as I found:

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/issues/2197

I haven't got dfu-programmer to work from the command line - I've been using make jc65:mykeymap:dfu to flash mine. Here's the qmk documentation on resetting EEPROM (which I couldn't get to work so used "flip").

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/quantum/tools

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3570 on: Sun, 20 May 2018, 23:50:54 »
Did you try resetting EEPROM then reflash?

I didn't try that before, so I spent the last few hours trying to figure out how to do that. I used "flip" and tried, but it didn't work. I think you might have me on the right track though, as I found:

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/issues/2197

I haven't got dfu-programmer to work from the command line - I've been using make jc65:mykeymap:dfu to flash mine. Here's the qmk documentation on resetting EEPROM (which I couldn't get to work so used "flip").

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/quantum/tools

Yeah alternatively theres a really easy way via qmk toolbox. Just connect your board and press a button on the qmk toolbox UI, flash your hex :)
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox

Offline Bambino

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3571 on: Tue, 22 May 2018, 10:51:59 »
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would you mind posting a pic of your fix for those experiencing the same issue?  Particularly the area of the USB shield for those that want to do the same?





Ever since I moved to my new place, ESD has been a problem with my keyboard--identical set up, same keyboard I've been using for a few years now, properly grounded.  Never before in my previous apartments has it been a problem, so I don't know what's going on here--still trying to figure it out.  (Previous apartment had full room carpeting where my keyboards were connected, and it was never a problem despite wearing any types of socks or having a space heater drying out air to almost zero humidity).  At some point I thought a USB cable with a very chunky ferrite choke helped in the new place, so I ordered nice looking replacements with ferrite chokes, which unfortunately turned out to be quite small.  With the small choke cable, I get maybe 30%-40% of ESD occurrences (again anecdotally) than with my old fancy sleeved USB cable with no choke.  Going to swap to the big choke ugly gray cable again soon, as with it I had no ESD issues at all for about 3 weeks (basically the whole duration of using it).  Moral of the story: if you do happen to have one of those heavy duty mini B USB cables with chunky ferrite chokes, try them out with your keyboard.
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would also appreciate some pictures

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk







The top pic shows where one end of the wire touches the USB shield, and the bottom pic shows the locations where the wire contacts the shield and the case.  I used some ugly masking tape to hold them in place.  It's worked perfectly so far.

Offline LightningXI

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3572 on: Tue, 22 May 2018, 11:17:08 »
Fantastic. Thank you for the reply, Bambino. Electrical tape should also do the job for adhesives.

Offline Jedi

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3573 on: Tue, 22 May 2018, 12:54:16 »
Thanks Bambino :thumb: will try this tonight and test for Keyboard Science on Wednesday.  :)

Offline jjwax

  • Posts: 124
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3574 on: Thu, 24 May 2018, 09:30:14 »
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would you mind posting a pic of your fix for those experiencing the same issue?  Particularly the area of the USB shield for those that want to do the same?





Ever since I moved to my new place, ESD has been a problem with my keyboard--identical set up, same keyboard I've been using for a few years now, properly grounded.  Never before in my previous apartments has it been a problem, so I don't know what's going on here--still trying to figure it out.  (Previous apartment had full room carpeting where my keyboards were connected, and it was never a problem despite wearing any types of socks or having a space heater drying out air to almost zero humidity).  At some point I thought a USB cable with a very chunky ferrite choke helped in the new place, so I ordered nice looking replacements with ferrite chokes, which unfortunately turned out to be quite small.  With the small choke cable, I get maybe 30%-40% of ESD occurrences (again anecdotally) than with my old fancy sleeved USB cable with no choke.  Going to swap to the big choke ugly gray cable again soon, as with it I had no ESD issues at all for about 3 weeks (basically the whole duration of using it).  Moral of the story: if you do happen to have one of those heavy duty mini B USB cables with chunky ferrite chokes, try them out with your keyboard.
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would also appreciate some pictures

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk



Show Image


Show Image


The top pic shows where one end of the wire touches the USB shield, and the bottom pic shows the locations where the wire contacts the shield and the case.  I used some ugly masking tape to hold them in place.  It's worked perfectly so far.

Thanks dude this is great stuff

Offline Zanduby

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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3575 on: Sun, 03 June 2018, 11:11:26 »
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would you mind posting a pic of your fix for those experiencing the same issue?  Particularly the area of the USB shield for those that want to do the same?





Ever since I moved to my new place, ESD has been a problem with my keyboard--identical set up, same keyboard I've been using for a few years now, properly grounded.  Never before in my previous apartments has it been a problem, so I don't know what's going on here--still trying to figure it out.  (Previous apartment had full room carpeting where my keyboards were connected, and it was never a problem despite wearing any types of socks or having a space heater drying out air to almost zero humidity).  At some point I thought a USB cable with a very chunky ferrite choke helped in the new place, so I ordered nice looking replacements with ferrite chokes, which unfortunately turned out to be quite small.  With the small choke cable, I get maybe 30%-40% of ESD occurrences (again anecdotally) than with my old fancy sleeved USB cable with no choke.  Going to swap to the big choke ugly gray cable again soon, as with it I had no ESD issues at all for about 3 weeks (basically the whole duration of using it).  Moral of the story: if you do happen to have one of those heavy duty mini B USB cables with chunky ferrite chokes, try them out with your keyboard.
I've drastically improved the ESD problems I was having with my M65A. My solution has been to tape a piece of jumper wire to connect the inside of the case to the metal shield surrounding the mini USB port. I used to frequently see my board go dark and have to reconnect to the PC whenever I touched it, but it has completely stopped doing that after this fix, even when I touch the board and my finger is shocked from the static. I'd recommend it to anyone having this problem.

Would also appreciate some pictures

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk



Show Image


Show Image


The top pic shows where one end of the wire touches the USB shield, and the bottom pic shows the locations where the wire contacts the shield and the case.  I used some ugly masking tape to hold them in place.  It's worked perfectly so far.

Thanks dude this is great stuff

I solved my ESD issues by getting my board cerakoted. But this is a great way to ground your board better. Good job Bambino,thanks!

Offline Darknight00z

  • Posts: 644
  • Location: UK
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3576 on: Sat, 30 June 2018, 08:08:15 »
I forgot to backup my keycap. My ps2avrgb crapped on me, and I had to reset it. Would anyone mind walking me through getting back to a default keymap(or your personal keymap, I don't mind). Its just a heavy paper weight atm  :eek:

I would imagine loading someone's .hex or .json and uploading back to the jc65 via bootmapper client would do right?

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers

Edit: nvm figured it out.
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 July 2018, 11:29:53 by Darknight00z »

Offline Potatoes

  • Posts: 63
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3577 on: Sun, 01 July 2018, 21:10:01 »
Sorry if it's been asked, but what's the best way to clean the desk mat? lol

Offline dead_pixel_design

  • Posts: 623
  • Location: Portland, OR
  • IIIV is not a Roman Numeral. Positive Vibes.
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3578 on: Sun, 01 July 2018, 21:33:55 »
Sorry if it's been asked, but what's the best way to clean the desk mat? lol

Warm water with a little bit of hand/dish soap and a soft cleaning brush

Offline mittyzz

  • Posts: 26
  • Location: North Dakota
  • Pet kitties play with _______...
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3579 on: Tue, 03 July 2018, 09:24:25 »
So just to get everything straight here....if I have the ps2avrgb but it is not recognizing my board (even if I try holding down left ctrl + plugging in board), I should use the qmk toolbox to reset eeprom and reflash it?

Offline dead_pixel_design

  • Posts: 623
  • Location: Portland, OR
  • IIIV is not a Roman Numeral. Positive Vibes.
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3580 on: Thu, 02 August 2018, 13:03:23 »
What ended up being the best stab solution?

Offline Malenky

  • Posts: 271
  • Location: United Kingdom
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3581 on: Thu, 02 August 2018, 14:07:59 »
I've found that these work great for all screw in stabs. UK link but I'm sure you can find similar wherever you're from, just make sure you get the right size.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LCGHYR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Offline Atredl

  • Posts: 805
  • Location: SoCal
[GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3582 on: Thu, 02 August 2018, 14:23:35 »
If you’re in the US, these work really well. With 100 I’ve just been throwing them on every single screw wether it looks like it’ll short or not.

uxcell 2mmx4mmx0.5mm Fiber Motherboard Insulating Washers Spacer Red 100pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.M1yBb7716744

Offline obviouslygene

  • Posts: 70
  • Location: Sunny island sets in the sea
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3583 on: Wed, 29 August 2018, 10:57:55 »
If anybody is in the need for a space grey r1 :eek:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=95603

Hi Jchan, can you help me with identifying n1-3? I’ve emailed you but I didn’t get any reply.

Offline jjwax

  • Posts: 124
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3584 on: Fri, 31 August 2018, 14:38:49 »
Future kits will not be "a la carte" unfortunately. Trying to condense complexity as was in the GB

5 Top Options
6 Base Options
2 Plate Options
2 PCB Options

= A lot of custom options, but takes a lot longer to manage

Sorry! But I think the options will be good.

For those wondering, future retail sales will be priced lower for kits, and as we continue to bring in new parts, we're also looking to adding to the line as well.

Hey JChan,

So will the March kits be full kits and priced lower than the ~500ish we will see today?

Definitely cheaper for those kits ~

I just remembered Jchan mentionning a "surprise" being sent to everyone once the GB is done. Did we ever get news on that? I'm curious now.

Those will be sent out in a month or two, as I'm still in the middle of preparing them. I think you'd be happy with them, once they are ready. So maybe post about it mid march? Should be ready by then :)

Did anything ever happen with the "surprise?"

Offline dead_pixel_design

  • Posts: 623
  • Location: Portland, OR
  • IIIV is not a Roman Numeral. Positive Vibes.
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3585 on: Thu, 20 September 2018, 14:29:45 »
What ended up being the fix for a dead row?

Offline kacase

  • Posts: 130
  • Location: Berlin — Germany
  • All things bright and beautiful.
    • 9di
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3586 on: Tue, 25 September 2018, 07:49:03 »
What ended up being the fix for a dead row?


Less pressure on the stab screws or reflowing the solder on the chip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Orion V2 | Rama M65-A | Rama M67-A aka. Exent | Keycool TKL | Cherry MX Board 3.0

Offline dead_pixel_design

  • Posts: 623
  • Location: Portland, OR
  • IIIV is not a Roman Numeral. Positive Vibes.
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3587 on: Wed, 26 September 2018, 14:55:58 »
What ended up being the fix for a dead row?
Less pressure on the stab screws or reflowing the solder on the chip.

Thank you! Reflosing the IC did the trick!

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3588 on: Tue, 30 October 2018, 23:35:42 »
My LEDs will occasionally flicker to another color then back to normal. Any idea whats causing this? Seems like some sort of short is happening

Offline romevi

  • Formerly romevi
  • * Exalted Elder
  • Posts: 8941
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Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3589 on: Wed, 31 October 2018, 00:22:15 »
god.

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3590 on: Thu, 01 November 2018, 20:08:09 »
god.

Looks like god decided to make half of my LEDs white now. I cant even turn them off haha

Offline MikeTheTiger

  • Posts: 824
  • Location: 29.9511° N, 90.0715° W
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3591 on: Thu, 29 November 2018, 00:24:53 »
Anyone have a purple one they are looking to part with??

Offline obviouslygene

  • Posts: 70
  • Location: Sunny island sets in the sea
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3592 on: Mon, 03 December 2018, 00:22:45 »
god.

Looks like god decided to make half of my LEDs white now. I cant even turn them off haha

I have the same issue, does anyone know how to fix this?

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3593 on: Thu, 20 December 2018, 17:14:41 »
god.

Looks like god decided to make half of my LEDs white now. I cant even turn them off haha

I have the same issue, does anyone know how to fix this?

I was told to reflow the LED closest to the faulty one. Sadly...i had no luck and one LED is now dead while the other half is white :(
No respose from jchan either on help or PCB replacement for me to buy

Offline pixelpusher

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 4177
  • Location: Tennessee - USA
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3594 on: Thu, 20 December 2018, 17:36:45 »
I'm not sure how you reflowed the led, but I'll give a few pointers for things I've done to help.  First, you need to add some flux. You can use liquid or paste, either one.  The idea is that you want to remelt all of the solder that is there and have it adhere better.  If you  just touch a hot iron to it, you might melt something or just pull more solder off.  By adding flux, you can essentially heat the solder that is there without direct contact.  The flux carries the heat for you.  You really can't overdo the flux, Just clean off what is there after the job is finished.  My two cents from reflowing 2 MCUs and a few Kailh hot swap sockets.

Offline MikeTheTiger

  • Posts: 824
  • Location: 29.9511° N, 90.0715° W
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3595 on: Fri, 21 December 2018, 01:01:49 »
god.

Looks like god decided to make half of my LEDs white now. I cant even turn them off haha

I have the same issue, does anyone know how to fix this?

I was told to reflow the LED closest to the faulty one. Sadly...i had no luck and one LED is now dead while the other half is white :(
No respose from jchan either on help or PCB replacement for me to buy

jchan did say to me, on Instagram, in the beginning of the month that he had more pcbs coming. He seems to check emails once a week, but the slow pace of email correspondence has turned me off. I was trying to get an m65 from the parts he had listed, but now I'm not worried about it anymore since I ordered a Koyu from RAMA. The last time he dropped in on this thread was May? Don't hold your breathe.

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3596 on: Fri, 21 December 2018, 16:34:26 »
I'm not sure how you reflowed the led, but I'll give a few pointers for things I've done to help.  First, you need to add some flux. You can use liquid or paste, either one.  The idea is that you want to remelt all of the solder that is there and have it adhere better.  If you  just touch a hot iron to it, you might melt something or just pull more solder off.  By adding flux, you can essentially heat the solder that is there without direct contact.  The flux carries the heat for you.  You really can't overdo the flux, Just clean off what is there after the job is finished.  My two cents from reflowing 2 MCUs and a few Kailh hot swap sockets.

Almost got it working, added some flux and the LEDs were fixed for one second...and then the LED went bonkers and i attempted to remove it thus lifting a couple pads  :(

RIP.

Anyone know of any good alternative PCBs? My QMK pcb has just been trouble since day 1 with CTRL/Capslock swapping every few weeks and now LEDs dying

Offline Starston3

  • Posts: 276
  • Location: Bay Area
[GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3597 on: Fri, 21 December 2018, 16:56:55 »
I'm not sure how you reflowed the led, but I'll give a few pointers for things I've done to help.  First, you need to add some flux. You can use liquid or paste, either one.  The idea is that you want to remelt all of the solder that is there and have it adhere better.  If you  just touch a hot iron to it, you might melt something or just pull more solder off.  By adding flux, you can essentially heat the solder that is there without direct contact.  The flux carries the heat for you.  You really can't overdo the flux, Just clean off what is there after the job is finished.  My two cents from reflowing 2 MCUs and a few Kailh hot swap sockets.

Almost got it working, added some flux and the LEDs were fixed for one second...and then the LED went bonkers and i attempted to remove it thus lifting a couple pads  :(

RIP.

Anyone know of any good alternative PCBs? My QMK pcb has just been trouble since day 1 with CTRL/Capslock swapping every few weeks and now LEDs dying


This hotswap qmk PCB works if you don't mind modding the port hole of the case a bit https://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk65-hotswap.html

Edit: just notice that it's out of stock.

Offline swangful

  • Posts: 355
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3598 on: Sat, 12 January 2019, 18:19:20 »
I'm not sure how you reflowed the led, but I'll give a few pointers for things I've done to help.  First, you need to add some flux. You can use liquid or paste, either one.  The idea is that you want to remelt all of the solder that is there and have it adhere better.  If you  just touch a hot iron to it, you might melt something or just pull more solder off.  By adding flux, you can essentially heat the solder that is there without direct contact.  The flux carries the heat for you.  You really can't overdo the flux, Just clean off what is there after the job is finished.  My two cents from reflowing 2 MCUs and a few Kailh hot swap sockets.

Almost got it working, added some flux and the LEDs were fixed for one second...and then the LED went bonkers and i attempted to remove it thus lifting a couple pads  :(

RIP.

Anyone know of any good alternative PCBs? My QMK pcb has just been trouble since day 1 with CTRL/Capslock swapping every few weeks and now LEDs dying


This hotswap qmk PCB works if you don't mind modding the port hole of the case a bit https://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk65-hotswap.html

Edit: just notice that it's out of stock.

I was able to use kbdfans 65% PCB. i think its nearly identical to jc65 with the exception of some cut outs and the color of the PCB. I had to dremel down two areas and it works just fine :)



« Last Edit: Sun, 09 February 2020, 20:21:11 by swangful »

Offline aeryxz

  • Posts: 177
    • aeboards
Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS (Complete)
« Reply #3599 on: Sun, 24 March 2019, 05:55:45 »
What's the layout look on the KBD65? Because it has a blocker near the arrow keys from the info? and there's no more mini usb versions