So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
I didn't know you created the 1800 layout.
So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
I did not copy your design at all. I can see that they are pretty similar in form since they are made to fit one keyboard, and mine is just one out of the handful of options for this keyboard. It's like saying the DZ60 is a copy of the GH60, which is a copy of the Pok3r, etc. They're all just similar products designed to fit one case. Heck, Cherry could say you copied their design. Actually, the PCB hineybush made (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92389.0) inspired me to design my own because it was a pain to get the panel-mount USB connector (hence the USB port sideways) to fit and I didn't like some design elements. I understand that you have to protect your intellectual property, but this just doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
Well yeah, I placed one USB connector in the center and another sideways because of this (https://i.imgur.com/78yS37J.jpg) and on a location where the case wouldn't cause problems because of the standoffs. I'm guessing you did the same, and that's why it's in a similar location. I'm not sure how my ISP header looks like yours, but whatever. I even suggest you to use the standard pinout (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming#/media/File:Isp_headers.svg), saves us hobbyists a lot of work. Thanks for the response :)So you basically copied my design?
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
I did not copy your design at all. I can see that they are pretty similar in form since they are made to fit one keyboard, and mine is just one out of the handful of options for this keyboard. It's like saying the DZ60 is a copy of the GH60, which is a copy of the Pok3r, etc. They're all just similar products designed to fit one case. Heck, Cherry could say you copied their design. Actually, the PCB hineybush made (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92389.0) inspired me to design my own because it was a pain to get the panel-mount USB connector (hence the USB port sideways) to fit and I didn't like some design elements. I understand that you have to protect your intellectual property, but this just doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
My apologies, I came off as a bit abrasive. Not my intentions to be a ****. I could have chosen my words more carefully.
I never claimed to invent the 1800 layout as some earlier comments implied, I’m not sure how they even took my comment to mean that. Your usb position and isp header are just very similar to my design. If you came up with those ideas without ever having seen mine, then my hats off to you. Smart moves and nice work!
Didn't know you were making a PCB alongside the plate, nice. Did you use the spacing and component placement from the PCB files I sent you to use for the plate?
then why did you ask me for my PCB file? I'm genuinely curious, as you said you needed it for the spacing of the switches etc. since it's not standard
either way, it's nice to see a slight improvement over my original design. my v2 is still in the works, but I haven't had much time to work on it lately
Any update on this?(https://i.imgur.com/fNpTcvh.jpg)
Gonna try and mod this layout to work with the FC980m's 1800 layout, will fork the repo whenever I get to finishing that lolPssst, check this out: https://github.com/evyd13/nt-series
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/JwTsDRg.png)
Are the through holes and pads both added here so you can place either SMD diodes or TH diodes (TH Being installed on either side of the board)?
Great thread and excellent craftsmanship :thumb:The TKC1800 might work. Make sure you get the plate (and it fits your layout). It's overpriced and bottom row switch alignment without the plate is poor, but it supports in switch leds
Would anyone know of an actually back lit project for the 1800 using actual in-switch LEDs?
I can personally confirm the TKC-1800 as i own one and had installed Kalih red on it.Great thread and excellent craftsmanship :thumb:The TKC1800 might work. Make sure you get the plate (and it fits your layout). It's overpriced and bottom row switch alignment without the plate is poor, but it supports in switch leds
Would anyone know of an actually back lit project for the 1800 using actual in-switch LEDs?
Edit: The E80-1800 would also work, it looks promising (open source and all) but check the bottom row layouts it supports (only 7 or 6 u spacebar, no 6.25 IIRC)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=107604.0
Thank you both!!! So the kicad file would also show me the other compenents position on the pcb?
My first time soldering smd components and I'm worried I did something wrong. I tried plugging in the mini usb in all three usb options and my computer isn't registering it. Does anything stand out to you guys?
I also want to note that you should look at your solder connections under a magnifying glass on the ATMEGA chip and make sure no pins are bridging (are connecting to each other.) Otherwise you will have issues.
And it looks like you are missing 3 Diodes here:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/edlo6gq.png)
I also want to note that you should look at your solder connections under a magnifying glass on the ATMEGA chip and make sure no pins are bridging (are connecting to each other.) Otherwise you will have issues.
And it looks like you are missing 3 Diodes here:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/edlo6gq.png)
Thank you for this post. Its exactly what I've been looking for. I had a little bit of experience with the layout builder and firmware site from trying to handwire an alpha 28 recently. This information will also help me so much on that project as well. I was able to pic up a microscope to confirm no solder good and added the missing 3 diodes!
I got the schematic up and can see it but I'm struggling to understand it. I have 11 columns and 10 rows. But the schematic shows more in each row than I see on the layout. Are some of these diodes assigned to multiple keys? For example, I have 9 rows in column 0 but only 6 keys to assign. Am I missing something? The schematic shows a few rows have a split? Does that mean these rows both go to the same key? Also there are more keys than columns.
Someone pointed out that I needed to go back and get the pcb files to compare. My bad. Pls ignore the panic above as I was only viewing the schematic.
Thank you for clarifying that. Though my panic was more from not carefully reading the instructions.
I feel like I'm so close to the finish line on building my first board but now I'm getting an error when I try to compile and configure that says "Not every key has a unique position in the wiring matrix". I've been over this more times than I thought I would but there are a couple strands that still look messy. If you're willing can you share your hex file. Would I be able to see or upload your json file to see the layout in kbfirmware.com? In short, I'd like the answer but also I'd like to see how you got it :))
Can you post an image of the USB connector and MCU solder points?
It's normal that your computer is not going to recognize the USB Device until the IC has been flashed.
When you open up QMK Toolbox and plug in your 1800 PCB via USB, does the QMK Toolbox output any text in yellow before or after you hit the reset button with it plugged in? It should tell you it's "Ready".
You only need to solder on and use a single USB socket also. The two others are just for different placements. But since you have all 3 on your PCB, try each connector and see if QMK Toolbox recognizes and says Ready for either of them. (I don't recall if it reads Ready, but it should say something like Device detected. Again make sure no other keyboard is plugged in while doing this.)
Looks oddly familiar....My first experience with TKC
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
And probably the worst PCB for a plateless MX G80-1800 build. The bottom row is total swiss cheese and you're paying $30 more for backlighting.Looks oddly familiar....My first experience with TKC
https://thekey.company/products/pcb-for-tkc-1800
360 or FreeCAD?