Designing a custom board to waterjet at work

[Dukem10]

Hello, I am new to posting to forums like this so please forgive any formatting errors. I am working on designing a custom board to use with the Mecha 01 set by FU11.META1https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=100396.msg2754045#msg2754045 and the EV-01 Switch (I can't find the link). I am currently planning on making a sandwich out out of .09" aluminum base trim, .06" acrylic, .5" aluminum body, .06" aluminum switchplate, .125" aluminum faceplate. Then I would anodize it black, I had considered stainless steel but couldn't get a black I was happy with. Since I like having lots of switches, wanted a rotary encoder, and can solder decently; I figured I would do a rigid hand wire that you can look at through the back window. I wanted to do this and still have switches be hotswap-able but couldn't come up with a feasible way to do it. The logo on the front is cut into the faceplate and then their will be a piece of acrylic behind it that I can put leds behind. I am hoping the .06" aluminum will be rigid enough for the switchplate. Anyway this is where I am at right now, if anyone has suggestions let me know!

[fpazos]

I hardly see the screws but if the plate is well fixed to the others it should be fine as it is the right size. I can't imagine a handwired hotswap, I've seen a handwired manuform using hotswap sockets but it is quite dificult and won't work as a pcb hotswap.

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[nevin]

hotswap... you can do it, but it wouldn't function the way it does with a pcb that's held in place (screwed down, etc.). you'd have to remove the back, pull the socket off the switch, then remove the switch. but you wouldn't have to desolder the switch legs.... (and you had enough play in the wiring)

example: https://imgur.com/d01EEyh

amoeba style per switch pcbs with hotswap: https://github.com/ogatatsu/Cherry-Mx-Bitboard-Re

[Dukem10]

hotswap... you can do it, but it wouldn't function the way it does with a pcb that's held in place (screwed down, etc.). you'd have to remove the back, pull the socket off the switch, then remove the switch. but you wouldn't have to desolder the switch legs.... (and you had enough play in the wiring)

example: https://imgur.com/d01EEyh

amoeba style per switch pcbs with hotswap: https://github.com/ogatatsu/Cherry-Mx-Bitboard-Re

Ill have to look into these, I'm wondering if I were to attach them to the switchplate with 3d printed spacers if I could get it to work normally. Though, I may hand wire it and not worry about hotswap. Thanks for the tip!

[nevin]

you'd end up with a lot of mounting points for the little pcbs. but is do-able, if you choose.

[Leslieann]

To make the hand wired hotswap work you need an undertray to hold the sockets and then on overtray that also holds them down (either between them and the plate or integrated into the plate), the swaps need to be held from above and below.

I'm currently working on on a 3d printed keyboard that works this way (it's not done yet) but there are plans I was working from on 3d printing sites, which is the best way to make these trays. While these are meant to be 3d printed cutting them down to trays that sit inside a metal keyboard should be easy enough.

Here's one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4166883

[nevin]

nice find leslie! thanks.

[Dukem10]

To make the hand wired hotswap work you need an undertray to hold the sockets and then on overtray that also holds them down (either between them and the plate or integrated into the plate), the swaps need to be held from above and below.

I'm currently working on on a 3d printed keyboard that works this way (it's not done yet) but there are plans I was working from on 3d printing sites, which is the best way to make these trays. While these are meant to be 3d printed cutting them down to trays that sit inside a metal keyboard should be easy enough.

Here's one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4166883

This looks promising! Thank you for this, Ill post back with what I figure out