Tahae has more than one guide, the older one(?) uses Superlube Dielectric.
I have several sets of generic Cherry style and several sets of authentic Cherry/GMK, none rattle.
I use Superlube Dielectric, you want to all but fill the hole with thick lube, don't put it against the tube and squeeze but don't just lightly brush the walls as some will lead you to believe, on stab wires you want that thing to have a lot in it, slop it in there and don't be shy. Then dip the wire ends into the tube of lube to get more on that and make sure it too is coated entirely. Also use thick lube on the stab pivots.
For plastic on plastic you want either 205 or Finish Line Fluoro Extreme, which is about 10% thinner, do not use oil, you want grease, brush this on lightly, you don't need a lot. Don't forget to bandaid mod, also coated with 205 or Flouro. Don't use Dielectric since it will be too sticky for this purpose.
Thick lube for plastic on metal, thin for plastic on plastic.
You can get twice as much (or more) for half the price of Krytox. Are they identical, no but these are really really close for a fraction of the cost, even with Prime shipping. I also have a lead on some that may be even closer but I haven't researched it enough yet. Stop buying lubes for extreme conditions, we aren't going into space, running the Dakar or eating it, it's about the easiest conditions lube can hope for.
One last note on spacebar stabs...
I have seen them rub/scrap the plate, case or pcb and sound like a rattle. You may need a touch of lube there, or try putting heat shrink over the wire (shrink and then lube). The shrink will eliminate metal on metal but also dampen any harmonics passing through it. I wouldn't do this unless you see or hear an issue as it will do almost nothing in most instances but when it works it works.