Omron switches
While it's by far the most commonly used switch in in mice (more than 80%) there's a lot of questions about the numbers and letter designations. I myself have spent many many hours over many days scouring for information to figure this out. Since publishing this guide also helped bring in others who brought more info (thanks guys!). At this point I think it's safe to assume we have a good grasp on these switches.
Important warning TL/DR:
The D2FC-F-K is NOT the same as a standard D2F and D2FC, it is a dedicated switch made and marketed specifically for mice. See -K designation below for more.
Quick info:
D2F-F or D2F-01-F (in that order) if you want the better sealed Japanese switch which happens to be 75gram (yes, it's stiffer) or if you still want a 60gram switch stick with the D2FC-F-K. Avoid every other D2FC, they just don't work well in modern mice. All are out of the recommended operating range but they are a lot closer than then the common D2FC (the K may or may not be as good as the Japanese D2F).
Updated for 2020
More info has come in, particularly regarding the D2FC-F-K thanks to chrisdewit (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2919294#msg2919294) and Keebon (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2883465#msg2883465) and some personal testing. This has also been re-formatted a little and new info added and corrected. It's still not perfect, we still do not know everything but it's fairly complete at this point. Recommendations are ^ up there.
Info breakdown (older info)
D2F vs D2FC indicates origin. [/b]
More
D2F = Japanese (always has Japan molded into top along with Omron label)
D2FC = China (may have China painted on side or top, or just a “C” in the model #)
Chinese models are mass produced and are considered to be a bit sloppy in tolerances, so one may have an actuation point a bit higher than another. Tolerances on these are pretty small so you probably wouldn't notice, but just know that they are more sloppy than the Japanese models.
Japanese models have much nicer internals, better tolerances, better metals,a stronger frame and are better sealed from dirt and moisture. They are also slightly taller (0.08mm) and have a shorter actuation distance but it’s close enough to be a drop in replacement.
Warning.
While you can use a normal D2FC in a modern mouse, it will be inconsistent and fail very early. See the -K designation below.
-01 (can be with or without the dash)
The first batch of batch of numbers or lack of them is usually an 01, this indicates the spring material.
More
-01 Indicates a “gold alloy spring”
lack of -01 Indicates a “silver alloy spring”
I put them in quotes because I suspect it means they are plated spring steel, not an actual alloy of the two materials as implied by Omron.
Which is better?
Honestly, I'm not sure. I have 01's in my G900 and they seem stable for the moment, and gold lasts, the problem is silver *should* work better with lower amperage and amperage is the problem and precisely why you should not use a common D2FC. My advice, get silver if you can but don't put in a lot of effort until we know more.
Spring rates (-F)
More
The next important indicator you want to know is the -F
-F Japanese – 75grams.
-F Chinese – 60grams.
Others – 120 or 150gram
Some listings will just tell the spring rate, others use the -F designation.
Beware, Omron or maybe it's the sellers, have a habit of listing some Chinese models as 75gram. It's still not known if there s a 60 and a 75gram Chinese spring or if they are all just 60gram and being confused by Omrons literature. Translation is at ties an art so things can get lost.
Which is better?
It’s up to you really.
Warning.
While you can use a normal D2FC in a modern mouse, it will be inconsistent and fail very early. See the -K designation below.
-K designation (-K)
This is only for the Chinese model and indicates a mouse specific switch.
More
Modern mice use such low amounts of energy that a normal D2FC no longer functions consistently. The Japanese D2f functions better but the Chinese D2FC has problems, it's suspected this is sort of a hybrid. Regardless it;s aimed directly at mice.
The standard D2FC will work, it’s just inconsistent and will be rather short lived. When I put them in my G900 the right click became inconsistent within a month or two and got progressively worse from there. For comparison I usually get 12-14 months out of a -K, keep in mind that is a sample size of only 2, but it worked pretty much as expected (bad), so I’d say it was enough of a sample size in that regard.
If you want to retain a 60gram spring in your mouse you will need to use the D2FC-F-K as it’s the only 60gram spring model available from Omron that i can verify.
Lifespan Labeled as (10M)
More
There is a rumor that Japanese switches start with a lower lifespan and that the -F has a longer lifespan. This doesn't seem to really hold much water when you consider that Omron themselves labels them for you. Sometimes.
Why? These lifespan numbers are for ZERO load, and they really do mean ANY load. If the mouse button rests on the switch button or your finger causes it to, then the lifespan will be shortened. Anything touching that button shortens the lifespan. Many mice actually may have some slop to prevent this when your fingers are off the mouse, but as soon as you put them on it, the lifespan is probably starting to drop as the weight of your fingers remove that slop. Personally, 10M last longer than 20M for me, see my note here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2292232#msg2292232).
Omron has multiple ratings:
(1M) = 1million presses
(3m) = 3million presses
(5m) = 5million presses
(10M) = 10million presses
(20M) = 20million presses
Unfortunately, the only surefire way to know for certain is with the part number as shown above as they didn't always mark them. However they often coincided with the button color or a painted dot on top.
Some of the lower numbers the details are sketchy, but we don't really care about them anyhow.
Black – no dot – (1M) = 1million presses (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (3m) = 3million (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (5m) = 5million (not verified)
Gray button and/or dot - (10M) = 10million
White button and/or dot - (20M) = 20million
The colors are also referred to as tops, so when someone says a “white top” Omron, they mean it's a switch rated for 20mil. Presses.
Use caution: I don't recommend relying on the button color. MS has custom switches made for them (labeled MS) as does another company, which can be different and I have seen white and gray botton Omrons with no (XXM) stamped on them. These are usually older models, but it's something to keep in mind. Dots and labeling is the only surefire way to know and a while lower numbers may not say it, you can bet a 50M is going to let you know it's a 50M as it’s a selling point.
I'll put a chart at the bottom showing what is using what that I know of and if others post I will try and add them.
Other random numbers and letters in the switch part number Example D2F L3 -T
More
Frankly, you do not want any of these on your switch, as they pertain to the soldering terminals and different ways to actuate the button, almost none of which are useful to use. Note: Levers can be removed, so if you want a specific switch in a hurry and can only find it with a lever, you can always remove it from the switch and use it without problems, just be careful removing it.
L = Hinge lever
L2 = Roller lever
L3 = simulated roller
L30 = larger simulated roller
-T = self clinching terminals (this can still work in a mouse)
-A = right angled terminals
-A1 = left angled terminals
-D3 = big solder terminals
-D = compact terminals
Other odballs
It's probably these are an older naming convention Omron used, as we know they switched lifespan indicators a while back.
More
Take much of this with a grain of salt as we have no hard evidence on any of this.
D2F-F-7N is Comparable to D2F-01F (Japanese) (Confirmed this is a 75g switch!)
D2FC-F-7N is Comparable to D2FC-01F (Chinese)
D2F-3-7 is reportedly comparable to D2F-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Japanese)
D2FC-3-7 is probably comparable to D2FC-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Chinese)
Note: I do not know if the D2FC-3-7 exists, but I believe it might since the 7N has a Japanese and Chinese counterpart. A quick Google search turned up nothing.
Beware with any of these, as they may not function properly in a modern mouse due to the low amperage. See -K designation.
Other Switch Brands
More
Yes, there are others that can be used, lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”
WARNING!!!
While there are others that will go in, they are often slightly different sizes, and some are not designed for the low amperages we currently use in mice. So while they may fit and work for a bit, go back and read the -K designation before actually buying any.
Various brands:
Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF
Interesting ones:
TTF is considered quietest
Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable
Popular Mice and what switches they use:
80% or more of all mice use them, and it's even more common at the high end.
More
Known to use alternatives:
Corsair
Razer
Steelseries
Exclusively use Omrons or almost exclusively:
Asus
Logitech
Cooler Master
Roccat
With Logitech, the newer and more expensive the mouse, the higher the lifespan rating as well.
SourcesMore
Omron pdf - https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-d2f.pdf
Omron -f pdf - https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/13/d2f.html
Overclock.net - http://www.overclock.net/t/1152386/what-is-the-best-main-model-of-microswitch
Eteknix for Asus info - http://www.eteknix.com/asus-announces-rog-spatha-gaming-mouse/
Japanese vs China info (Korean) - http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/tipandtech/2861723
Omron marketing material - http://en.chanlin-ele.com/Uploads/201601/568ce2c9eeda4.pdf
Omorn switch failures by Alex Kenis - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=v5BhECVlKJA&feature=emb_title
Various teardown images and videos on Google, Youtube, etc
Updated June 2020
Background:
Omron switches are the common by far used in mice, however the naming scheme and rumors abound about what each does and is. Here I'll try and document as much as I can and dispel some of the mysteries. This took hours to compile, reading websites, pdf's and more, it contains all you should need to know.
Note:
Omron uses two naming methods. While I have not confirmed it, I suspect the numbers are different simply because one number is meant for a machine to install while the others are meant for individual sale/retail. The machine ones probably come assembled in trays or strips so the machine can feed them in quickly. This is backed up by the Asus ROG Spatha mouse which uses a machine numbers on the switches inside the mouse, but retail naming on the two switches included (this mouse allows the user to change them).
This guide covers both, but right or wrong about naming reasons, this is how they will be referred to in order to distinguish them.
D2F Switches:
The switches by Omron are all designated D2F, from there it gets a bit more complex. We'll discuss retail switches first, as once you understand them, you can more easily understand the machine switches.
D2F vs D2FC indicates origin and more. (Important!)
More
D2F = Japanese (always has Japan molded into top along with Omron label)
D2FC = China (may have China painted on side or top, or just a “C” in the model #)
Chinese models are mass produced and are considered to be a bit sloppy in tolerances, so one may have an actuation point a bit higher than another. Tolerances on these are pretty small so you wouldn't notice, but just know that they are more sloppy than the Japanese models.
Japanese models have much nicer internals, better tolerances, better metals,a stronger frame and are better sealed from dirt and moisture. They are also slightly taller and have a shorter actuation distance, it's for this reason they are not always interchangeable with Chinese models.
Which is better?
No question, the Japanese switch is better made, but unless you use it in a harsh environment, or plan on your mouse lasting 10 years or more it may not be worth the added expense or hassle to install them.
Warning: If your mouse has Chinese models, the Japanese models may not fit (unless there is a teeny bit of slop between button and switch itself, which is common). Most Logitech can probably handle it, but if not you can always file actuator. Just remember if you don't like it and try to go back to the Japanese version things will be very sloppy.
D2F vs D2F -01 (can be with or without the dash)
The next batch of numbers or lack of them is usually an 01, this indicates the spring material.
More
D2FC Indicates a “silver alloy spring”
D2FC -01 Indicates a “gold alloy spring”
I put them in quotes because I suspect it means they are plated spring steel, not an actual alloy of the two materials as implied by Omron.
Which is better?
Gold is better at fighting corrosion, however it doesn't conduct as well and needs a bit more power to start conduction. In our situation, it doesn't matter much and given time and corrosion (tarnish), the gold will maintain it's level of resistance better. So unless you need the added conductivity for higher amps, gold is the better choice here as evidenced by the act that better mice almost universally use the 01.
Spring rates (-F)
More
The next important indicator you want to know is the -F
D2FC =150g actuating force
D2FC -F = 75g actuation force
Which is better?
Now before you rush out and look for a -F, there are considerations here and it's really not that simple.
-F will obviously be easier to push and likely will last longer (irrelevant, you'll see). A non -F will have a much more solid click to it and a faster return. This is important if you play FPS and need to rapid fire. Most people tend to prefer the non -f, especially in gaming mice, but if you don't game the -f may be your favorite and I can see some of you already drooling, but...
Warning: I told you this wasn't that simple…
Switches have a max force rating which happens to be based on the switch and is typically 10x the actuation force. So if you tend to abuse your mice, the non -f can actually last much longer. Just another reason for gamers to consider the non -F. As you start pounding the button for rapid fire, you can easily exceed the -F's force limits which is only a little over a pound. This becomes more relevant in the next section.
Lifespan Will be labeled as D2F -01 (10M)
More
Remember I said lifespan on the -F was irrelevant, now you learn why.
There is a rumor that Japanese switches start with a lower lifespan and that the -F has a longer lifespan. This doesn't seem to really hold much water when you consider that Omron themselves labels them for you. Sometimes.
Warning: Keep in mind that these numbers are without any load, and they really do mean ANY load. If the mouse button rests on the switch button or your finger causes it to, then the lifespan will be shortened. Anything touching that button shortens the lifespan. Your mouse may have some slop to prevent this when your fingers are off the mouse, but as soon as you put them on it, the lifespan is probably starting to drop as the weight of your fingers remove that slop. Personally, 10M last longer than 20M for me, see my note here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2292232#msg2292232).
Omron has multiple ratings:
(1M) = 1million presses
(3m) = 3million presses
(5m) = 5million presses
(10M) = 10million presses
(20M) = 20million presses
Unfortunately, the only surefire way to know for certain is with the part number as shown above as they didn't always mark them. However they often coincided with the button color or a painted dot on top.
Some of the lower numbers the details are sketchy, but we don't really care about them anyhow.
Black – no dot – (1M) = 1million presses (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (3m) = 3million (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (5m) = 5million (not verified)
Gray button and/or dot - (10M) = 10million
White button and/or dot - (20M) = 20million
The colors are also referred to as tops, so when someone says a “white top” Omron, they mean it's a switch rated for 20mil. Presses.
Caution: I don't recommend relying on the button color. MS has custom switches made for them (labeled MS) which can be different and I have seen white and gray botton Omrons with no (XXM) stamped on them. These are usually older models, but it's something to keep in mind. Dots and labeling is the only surefire way to know and a while lower numbers may not say it, you can bet a 20M is going to let you know it's a 20M.
I'll put a chart at the bottom showing what is using what that I know of and if others post I will try and add them.
Other random numbers and letters in the switch part number Example D2F L3 -T
More
Frankly, you do not want any of these on your switch, as they pertain to the soldering terminals and different ways to actuate the button, almost none of which are useful to use. Note: Levers can be removed, so if you want a specific switch in a hurry and can only find it with a lever, you can always remove it from the switch and use it without problems, just be careful removing it.
L = Hinge lever
L2 = Roller lever
L3 = simulated roller
L30 = larger simulated roller
-T = self clinching terminals (this can still work in a mouse)
-A = right angled terminals
-A1 = left angled terminals
-D3 = big solder terminals
-D = compact terminals
Machine switch Numbers
More
D2F-F-7N is Comparable to D2F-01F (Japanese)
D2FC-F-7N is Comparable to D2FC-01F (Chinese)
D2F-3-7 is reportedly comparable to D2F-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Japanese)
D2FC-3-7 is probably comparable to D2FC-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Chinese)
Note: I do not know if the D2FC-3-7 exists, but I believe it might since the 7N has a Japanese and Chinese counterpart. A quick Google search turned up nothing.
Other Switch Brands
More
Yes, there are others that can be used. Lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”
Various brands:
Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF
Interesting ones:
TTF is considered quietest
Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable
Popular Mice and what switches they use:
More
Almost all use a D2FC-F-7N the difference is the lifespan.
Asus
Rog Gladius = 20M (user replaceable)
ROG Spatha = 20M (user replaceable)
CoolerMaster
Storm = 10M
Logitech - Typically uses Omron 10Ms in most of their mice, however some gaming have used 20 lately.
G302 = 20M
G303 = 20M
G500 = ? (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G500S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G502 = unlabeled
G600 = 20M
G700 =10M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G700S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)
G9 = 10M
G9X = 10M
G900 = 20M (possibly 10)
M705 Marathon = Himake switches
Master = 10M
MX Revolution = 10M
MX Performance = 10M
Razer
Deathadder 2013 = 10M
Steelseries
Sensei = 20M
Not all Steelseries use Omrons!
Sources
More
Omron pdf - https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-d2f.pdf
Overclock.net - http://www.overclock.net/t/1152386/what-is-the-best-main-model-of-microswitch
Eteknix for Asus info - http://www.eteknix.com/asus-announces-rog-spatha-gaming-mouse/
Japanese vs China info (Korean) - http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/tipandtech/2861723
Various teardown images and videos on Google, Youtube, etc
Thanks for your information!
Omron switches
While it's by far the most commonly used switch in in mice (more than 80%) there's a lot of questions about the numbers and letter designations. I myself have spent many many hours over many days scouring for information to figure this out. Since publishing this guide also helped bring in others who brought more info (thanks guys!). At this point I think it's safe to assume we have a good grasp on these switches.
Important warning TL/DR:
The D2FC-F-K is NOT the same as a standard D2F and D2FC, it is a dedicated switch made and marketed specifically for mice. See -K designation below for more.
Quick info:
D2F-F or D2F-01-F (in that order) if you want the better sealed Japanese switch which happens to be 75gram (yes, it's stiffer) or if you still want a 60gram switch stick with the D2FC-F-K. Avoid every other D2FC, they just don't work well in modern mice. All are out of the recommended operating range but they are a lot closer than then the common D2FC (the K may or may not be as good as the Japanese D2F).
Updated for 2020
More info has come in, particularly regarding the D2FC-F-K thanks to chrisdewit (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2919294#msg2919294) and Keebon (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2883465#msg2883465) and some personal testing. This has also been re-formatted a little and new info added and corrected. It's still not perfect, we still do not know everything but it's fairly complete at this point. Recommendations are ^ up there.
Info breakdown (older info)
D2F vs D2FC indicates origin. [/b]
More
D2F = Japanese (always has Japan molded into top along with Omron label)
D2FC = China (may have China painted on side or top, or just a “C” in the model #)
Chinese models are mass produced and are considered to be a bit sloppy in tolerances, so one may have an actuation point a bit higher than another. Tolerances on these are pretty small so you probably wouldn't notice, but just know that they are more sloppy than the Japanese models.
Japanese models have much nicer internals, better tolerances, better metals,a stronger frame and are better sealed from dirt and moisture. They are also slightly taller (0.08mm) and have a shorter actuation distance but it’s close enough to be a drop in replacement.
Warning.
While you can use a normal D2FC in a modern mouse, it will be inconsistent and fail very early. See the -K designation below.
-01 (can be with or without the dash)
The first batch of batch of numbers or lack of them is usually an 01, this indicates the spring material.
More
-01 Indicates a “gold alloy spring”
lack of -01 Indicates a “silver alloy spring”
I put them in quotes because I suspect it means they are plated spring steel, not an actual alloy of the two materials as implied by Omron.
Which is better?
Honestly, I'm not sure. I have 01's in my G900 and they seem stable for the moment, and gold lasts, the problem is silver *should* work better with lower amperage and amperage is the problem and precisely why you should not use a common D2FC. My advice, get silver if you can but don't put in a lot of effort until we know more.
Spring rates (-F)
More
The next important indicator you want to know is the -F
-F Japanese – 75grams.
-F Chinese – 60grams.
Others – 120 or 150gram
Some listings will just tell the spring rate, others use the -F designation.
Beware, Omron or maybe it's the sellers, have a habit of listing some Chinese models as 75gram. It's still not known if there s a 60 and a 75gram Chinese spring or if they are all just 60gram and being confused by Omrons literature. Translation is at ties an art so things can get lost.
Which is better?
It’s up to you really.
Warning.
While you can use a normal D2FC in a modern mouse, it will be inconsistent and fail very early. See the -K designation below.
-K designation (-K)
This is only for the Chinese model and indicates a mouse specific switch.
More
Modern mice use such low amounts of energy that a normal D2FC no longer functions consistently. The Japanese D2f functions better but the Chinese D2FC has problems, it's suspected this is sort of a hybrid. Regardless it;s aimed directly at mice.
The standard D2FC will work, it’s just inconsistent and will be rather short lived. When I put them in my G900 the right click became inconsistent within a month or two and got progressively worse from there. For comparison I usually get 12-14 months out of a -K, keep in mind that is a sample size of only 2, but it worked pretty much as expected (bad), so I’d say it was enough of a sample size in that regard.
If you want to retain a 60gram spring in your mouse you will need to use the D2FC-F-K as it’s the only 60gram spring model available from Omron that i can verify.
Lifespan Labeled as (10M)
More
There is a rumor that Japanese switches start with a lower lifespan and that the -F has a longer lifespan. This doesn't seem to really hold much water when you consider that Omron themselves labels them for you. Sometimes.
Why? These lifespan numbers are for ZERO load, and they really do mean ANY load. If the mouse button rests on the switch button or your finger causes it to, then the lifespan will be shortened. Anything touching that button shortens the lifespan. Many mice actually may have some slop to prevent this when your fingers are off the mouse, but as soon as you put them on it, the lifespan is probably starting to drop as the weight of your fingers remove that slop. Personally, 10M last longer than 20M for me, see my note here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.msg2292232#msg2292232).
Omron has multiple ratings:
(1M) = 1million presses
(3m) = 3million presses
(5m) = 5million presses
(10M) = 10million presses
(20M) = 20million presses
Unfortunately, the only surefire way to know for certain is with the part number as shown above as they didn't always mark them. However they often coincided with the button color or a painted dot on top.
Some of the lower numbers the details are sketchy, but we don't really care about them anyhow.
Black – no dot – (1M) = 1million presses (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (3m) = 3million (not verified)
Red or Yellow button or dot (5m) = 5million (not verified)
Gray button and/or dot - (10M) = 10million
White button and/or dot - (20M) = 20million
The colors are also referred to as tops, so when someone says a “white top” Omron, they mean it's a switch rated for 20mil. Presses.
Use caution: I don't recommend relying on the button color. MS has custom switches made for them (labeled MS) as does another company, which can be different and I have seen white and gray botton Omrons with no (XXM) stamped on them. These are usually older models, but it's something to keep in mind. Dots and labeling is the only surefire way to know and a while lower numbers may not say it, you can bet a 50M is going to let you know it's a 50M as it’s a selling point.
I'll put a chart at the bottom showing what is using what that I know of and if others post I will try and add them.
Other random numbers and letters in the switch part number Example D2F L3 -T
More
Frankly, you do not want any of these on your switch, as they pertain to the soldering terminals and different ways to actuate the button, almost none of which are useful to use. Note: Levers can be removed, so if you want a specific switch in a hurry and can only find it with a lever, you can always remove it from the switch and use it without problems, just be careful removing it.
L = Hinge lever
L2 = Roller lever
L3 = simulated roller
L30 = larger simulated roller
-T = self clinching terminals (this can still work in a mouse)
-A = right angled terminals
-A1 = left angled terminals
-D3 = big solder terminals
-D = compact terminals
Other odballs
It's probably these are an older naming convention Omron used, as we know they switched lifespan indicators a while back.
More
Take much of this with a grain of salt as we have no hard evidence on any of this.
D2F-F-7N is Comparable to D2F-01F (Japanese) (Confirmed this is a 75g switch!)
D2FC-F-7N is Comparable to D2FC-01F (Chinese)
D2F-3-7 is reportedly comparable to D2F-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Japanese)
D2FC-3-7 is probably comparable to D2FC-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Chinese)
Note: I do not know if the D2FC-3-7 exists, but I believe it might since the 7N has a Japanese and Chinese counterpart. A quick Google search turned up nothing.
Beware with any of these, as they may not function properly in a modern mouse due to the low amperage. See -K designation.
Other Switch Brands
More
Yes, there are others that can be used, lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”
WARNING!!!
While there are others that will go in, they are often slightly different sizes, and some are not designed for the low amperages we currently use in mice. So while they may fit and work for a bit, go back and read the -K designation before actually buying any.
Various brands:
Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF
Interesting ones:
TTF is considered quietest
Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable
Popular Mice and what switches they use:
80% or more of all mice use them, and it's even more common at the high end.
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Known to use alternatives:
Corsair
Razer
Steelseries
Exclusively use Omrons or almost exclusively:
Asus
Logitech
Cooler Master
Roccat
With Logitech, the newer and more expensive the mouse, the higher the lifespan rating as well.
SourcesMore
Omron pdf - https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-d2f.pdf
Omron -f pdf - https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/13/d2f.html
Overclock.net - http://www.overclock.net/t/1152386/what-is-the-best-main-model-of-microswitch
Eteknix for Asus info - http://www.eteknix.com/asus-announces-rog-spatha-gaming-mouse/
Japanese vs China info (Korean) - http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/tipandtech/2861723
Omron marketing material - http://en.chanlin-ele.com/Uploads/201601/568ce2c9eeda4.pdf
Omorn switch failures by Alex Kenis - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=v5BhECVlKJA&feature=emb_title
Various teardown images and videos on Google, Youtube, etc
Updated June 2020
So according to the datasheet -01 is supposed to indicate 30 VDC 0.1A rating, while without -01 indicates 125 VAC 1A rating for -F (low operating force) switches. I got both from mouser and took the shell off. The spring part seems to be the same; both the hammer and the nub where the hammer strikes appears silvery on the D2F-F and appears copperish on the D2F-01F. I didn't take the spring off, so maybe the copperish nubs are plated in the center with gold.
Other Switch Brands
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Yes, there are others that can be used, lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”
WARNING!!!
While there are others that will go in, they are often slightly different sizes, and some are not designed for the low amperages we currently use in mice. So while they may fit and work for a bit, go back and read the -K designation before actually buying any.
Various brands:
Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF
Interesting ones:
TTF is considered quietest
Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable
What is the full name of "TTF"? Where can i find spec sheets of those? Where can i buy them?
Thanks