【GB】JER-A06(80% and 20% pad)CNC and anodizing is completed 10.9

[JubJubCity]

Here is the USB connection on the PCB.
The labels say G D+ D- V
(Attachment Link)

The idea is to cut the RJ connection off the end of the cable and solder the wires to those points.
Tie a knot in the cable too to add some strain relief so you don't accidentally pull out the wires.
I have no idea how the cable is wired internally or if they're all wired the same (so that everyone can use the same color code), so the safest thing to do is use a multimeter to confirm for yourself per the USB spec:
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the info i just need to get a multimeter now.

[MajorKoos]

Here is the USB connection on the PCB.
The labels say G D+ D- V
(Attachment Link)

The idea is to cut the RJ connection off the end of the cable and solder the wires to those points.
Tie a knot in the cable too to add some strain relief so you don't accidentally pull out the wires.
I have no idea how the cable is wired internally or if they're all wired the same (so that everyone can use the same color code), so the safest thing to do is use a multimeter to confirm for yourself per the USB spec:
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the info i just need to get a multimeter now.

Anything that will complete a circuit so you know which wire is connected to each pin in the USB plug will work. 
You could even jippo it with 2 pieces of wire and your cat's laser pointer.

[wixxzblu]

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

[Delirious]

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

your ziptie is in the wrong position. The bottom picture, right above where you soldered your usb cable there are 2 holes. The zip tie is supposed to go through those holes, keeping the cable from moving around. That's the extra security measurement.

[wixxzblu]

I already know that, the post was more to give information on the USB cable colors and indicator lights. Also not my guide, it is from the JER QQ group.

[blighty]

I already know that, the post was more to give information on the USB cable colors and indicator lights. Also not my guide, it is from the JER QQ group.

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help. 

[MajorKoos]

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help.

Dumb question, but why?
it's bootmapper so you can use the app to update the firmware and settings in eeprom.

[LightningXI]

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help.

Dumb question, but why?
it's bootmapper so you can use the app to update the firmware and settings in eeprom.

Yay, I like Bootmapper.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

[JubJubCity]

Checked with SF express and the package has been handed off to UPS, set to be delivered Thur maybe sooner. 

[blighty]

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help.

Dumb question, but why?
it's bootmapper so you can use the app to update the firmware and settings in eeprom.

I probably am using the wrong word.  What key to enter programming mode? 

And I hope my package isn't handed off to UPS, they will fubar my shipping...

[MajorKoos]

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help.

Dumb question, but why?
it's bootmapper so you can use the app to update the firmware and settings in eeprom.

I probably am using the wrong word.  What key to enter programming mode? 

And I hope my package isn't handed off to UPS, they will fubar my shipping...

It sounds like you're used to dealing with QMK/TMK.
You don't need do any of that with bootmapper client.
There is a windows app which communicates with the PCB over USB to modify the keymap, RGB settings, macros, etc.

You can get it here:
http://blog.winkeyless.kr/155

And here are some instructions:
https://meckeyalpha.com/pages/guide-on-bootmapper-client

The app is used to flash new firmware onto the controller and configure all the settings when you're done. 
The settings are stored in a different part of controller to the firmware so you don't need to re-flash the firmware whenever you want to change something.
If you just want to configure the keymap, macros or LED settings you don't need to re-flash the firmware.

[dantambok]

Oof mine just landed in the philippines today. Might get it in 1-2 days hopefully. 

[blighty]

Do you know how to get it into bootloader mode?  Thanks for trying to help.

Dumb question, but why?
it's bootmapper so you can use the app to update the firmware and settings in eeprom.

I probably am using the wrong word.  What key to enter programming mode? 

And I hope my package isn't handed off to UPS, they will fubar my shipping...

It sounds like you're used to dealing with QMK/TMK.
You don't need do any of that with bootmapper client.
There is a windows app which communicates with the PCB over USB to modify the keymap, RGB settings, macros, etc.

You can get it here:
http://blog.winkeyless.kr/155

And here are some instructions:
https://meckeyalpha.com/pages/guide-on-bootmapper-client

The app is used to flash new firmware onto the controller and configure all the settings when you're done. 
The settings are stored in a different part of controller to the firmware so you don't need to re-flash the firmware whenever you want to change something.
If you just want to configure the keymap, macros or LED settings you don't need to re-flash the firmware.

For some reason I don't remember the bootmapper client being so easy to use.  I think the old Spr1t pcbs used a version, but I could have sworn there was a usb/button press.  Or I'm confusing it with jigon or whatever client duck's pcb's use.

Thanks for the info!  Hopefully we all have no problems getting things up and running.

[MajorKoos]

For some reason I don't remember the bootmapper client being so easy to use.  I think the old Spr1t pcbs used a version, but I could have sworn there was a usb/button press.  Or I'm confusing it with jigon or whatever client duck's pcb's use.

Your memory isn't failing you. 
The SPRiT PCBs work a bit different and need the button press to enter programming mode (or you hold down esc or tilde while plugging it in iirc).  That whole PS2AVR vs PS2AVRU thing.  With newer keyboards the app puts the PCB into programming mode when you hit the upload button and reboots it once done.

[JubJubCity]

Any one able to figure out how to solder the cable to the PCB yet? I should be receiving my kit tomorrow and would love some guidance regarding the soldering of the cable.

[Puddsy]

Any one able to figure out how to solder the cable to the PCB yet? I should be receiving my kit tomorrow and would love some guidance regarding the soldering of the cable.

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

behold

[JubJubCity]

Any one able to figure out how to solder the cable to the PCB yet? I should be receiving my kit tomorrow and would love some guidance regarding the soldering of the cable.

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

behold

Yep seent it just hope the wiring looks the same when cutting open my cable. Not sure if it will so then their might be complications. If the cable is soldered incorrectly would that short the board making it kaput?

***Update***

looking at the cable zoomed in by 250% it looks like the connections terminated on the rj45 head are the same colors as the cable in the soldered picture.

[MajorKoos]

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

I put mine together this evening.  I'll post some pics when I have more light.
Some notes:

Make sure the switches are properly mounted in the PCB before soldering.  There isn't any plate to hold them in place while doing the deed so it's worth paying attention to.  I messed up on a couple and had to reflow the solder joints to get them seated.

The LED cover thing.  None of the screws seemed to fit. 

Even with the cable is thinned like the pics above you're still going to end up clamping it between the two halves.  The zip tie in the position shown will fit just inside the case and provide strain relief.  If you want to zip tie it to the PCB too go wild, but I do recommend the zip tie on the cable as shown above.

The wiring as shown in the pics also worked fine with no issue.  Soldering those thin wires to the PCB was a tedious though and I had to try a couple of times to get it right.  It's really easy to overheat such thin wires. 

All told it was kinda frustrating to build, but it makes for a really nice typing experience.  I can definitely feel the PCB flexing a little as I type (67g Zilents).  I could see this being by daily driver for the next while.

[JubJubCity]

I have some new information regarding the cable assemble  I hope this will help you guys.

J80 cable assembly line sequence as shown below,

Precautions:

1: Need to cut off the cable interface of the supplied cable (refer to Figure 1)

2: In order to prevent the line from getting stuck in the outer casing, the inside needs to be treated a little bit - the thickness of the outer surface is cut off. (Refer to Figure 2)

3: You can tie a cable tie at the position marked in green in Figure 3 to catch the bottom hole and prevent the wire.

4: If you use a wire socket, you need to polish the socket 0.5mm, the socket model is: eh2.54, 4P

 If you use the indicator light of the lamp module, you need to remove the black horizontal resistor at NL.CL and change it to vertical soldering. Refer to Figure 3 for the red circle.

 

Have questions about pcb function can contact group management @帅皮

If you have questions about assembly, you can contact group management @MU工作室-木妈妈

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

I put mine together this evening.  I'll post some pics when I have more light.
Some notes:

Make sure the switches are properly mounted in the PCB before soldering.  There isn't any plate to hold them in place while doing the deed so it's worth paying attention to.  I messed up on a couple and had to reflow the solder joints to get them seated.

The LED cover thing.  None of the screws seemed to fit. 

Even with the cable is thinned like the pics above you're still going to end up clamping it between the two halves.  The zip tie in the position shown will fit just inside the case and provide strain relief.  If you want to zip tie it to the PCB too go wild, but I do recommend the zip tie on the cable as shown above.

The wiring as shown in the pics also worked fine with no issue.  Soldering those thin wires to the PCB was a tedious though and I had to try a couple of times to get it right.  It's really easy to overheat such thin wires. 

All told it was kinda frustrating to build, but it makes for a really nice typing experience.  I can definitely feel the PCB flexing a little as I type (67g Zilents).  I could see this being by daily driver for the next while.

Congrats on the build hope to build mine tomorrow. Also thanks for the tips i'm sure i will also get some frustration from building but we don't learn if we don't try. Hope to see some pics.

[neralo]

everyone building theirs, and here I am still waiting for switches...and stabs...and keycaps :/ In the mean time though, here's a picture of my unbuilt one that I took in my office, just to see how it would look against the white tables.

https://imgur.com/mS2m3uS

[dantambok]

Got the board today. Beautifully done.

[JubJubCity]

everyone building theirs, and here I am still waiting for switches...and stabs...and keycaps :/ In the mean time though, here's a picture of my unbuilt one that I took in my office, just to see how it would look against the white tables.

https://imgur.com/mS2m3uS

So happy the white turned out looking real good. Excited to receive mine today.

[MajorKoos]

[JubJubCity]

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Damn, that looks nice. 

[dantambok]

 

[MajorKoos]

(Attachment Link)

Ooh, that's nice.

[JubJubCity]

Just received and its as lovely as all the pictures posted. Starting to build will post pictures later.

Just finished putting this beast together and let me tell you it was quit the challenge. Very frustrating soldering the cable onto the PCB but after a while i was able to persevere. I needed to thin the cable a great deal for it fit properly into the case. Feels Great to type on and loving the feel of not having a plate. Will post pictures tomorrow too tired tonight.

[mkarlsson]

Just got mine too!

[LightningXI]

Just built mine in a classic, vintage look:

[idlemao]

Kinda wish I had gotten in on one of these. How's the plateless typing feel like?

[JubJubCity]

Promised picture although i can't a good picture to save my life.

[LightningXI]

Kinda wish I had gotten in on one of these. How's the plateless typing feel like?

Typing wise it's nothing crazy - it's a bit bouncier and softer than other keyboards, but it is still not too far from other top-mounted keyboards because there's numerous, stiff mounting points close to the PCB and the PCB does not have relief cuts to let it bounce further.

However, I would say that the cooler aspect of the keyboard is how it sounds -- it has a much thockier sound than many other keyboards I've tried. Here's a typing test to demonstrate it.

[MajorKoos]

Just built mine in a classic, vintage look:

Show Image

Show Image

Very noice.

[idlemao]

Kinda wish I had gotten in on one of these. How's the plateless typing feel like?

Typing wise it's nothing crazy - it's a bit bouncier and softer than other keyboards, but it is still not too far from other top-mounted keyboards because there's numerous, stiff mounting points close to the PCB and the PCB does not have relief cuts to let it bounce further.

However, I would say that the cooler aspect of the keyboard is how it sounds -- it has a much thockier sound than many other keyboards I've tried. Here's a typing test to demonstrate it.

Very delicious thock, nice and full. I absolutely love that. Thanks for sharing the typing test. Now it makes me wish I had one all the more. 

[LightningXI]

Does someone know what measurements the screws for the JER numpad have?

I have realized I do not have screws for it.

[blighty]

 I think It took almost as long to shave the cord properly to fit as it did to solder the switches.   



I haven't looked in my keypad box yet.  Hopefully the screws are there.  I'll probably build it up this weekend.

@shower_king:  Thanks for bringing this buy to gh!

[Jubileus]

Just tested the PCB right now but it seems like its broken.
The whole 3rd row isn't working. Other keys are fine.
Is there any way to fix this?

[MajorKoos]

Its probably one of the resistors in the row.

[Jubileus]

Its probably one of the resistors in the row.

Ohh. How do I know which one is busted though?

Edit: Wait do you mean diode?

[MajorKoos]

Its probably one of the resistors in the row.

Ohh. How do I know which one is busted though?

Edit: Wait do you mean diode?

Doh! 
Yeah, a diode.
Could one have fallen off?
Any of them reversed or with poor soldering?

[Jubileus]

Its probably one of the resistors in the row.

Ohh. How do I know which one is busted though?

Edit: Wait do you mean diode?

Doh! 
Yeah, a diode.
Could one have fallen off?
Any of them reversed or with poor soldering?

Everything seems fine and in perfect order. Reflowed the solder and still no go.
I think if it was just a diode, it would only affect 1 key right? not the entire row.

[JubJubCity]

Could be the controller, i bought a singa with a tgr PCB and a row was not working, someone suggested i check the controller and to possibly reflow the solder to it. That is what i did and it resolved it but it did give me the cold sweats when i did everything.

[Jubileus]

Could be the controller, i bought a singa with a tgr PCB and a row was not working, someone suggested i check the controller and to possible reflow the solder to it. That is what i did and is resolved it but it did give me the cold sweats when i did everything.

Damn it did the trick. Thanks man! Glad to be able to use this beauty finally!

[JubJubCity]

Could be the controller, i bought a singa with a tgr PCB and a row was not working, someone suggested i check the controller and to possible reflow the solder to it. That is what i did and is resolved it but it did give me the cold sweats when i did everything.

Damn it did the trick. Thanks man! Glad to be able to use this beauty finally!

Show Image

Awesome! Glad it worked out for you.  :thumb:

[alisonica]

Hello, my package went to London instead of germany for some reason and there's no response from SF. Can anyone help me?

[JubJubCity]

I know SF is closed on the weekend at least in the states, i would suggest trying tomorrow.

[neralo]

Finally got around to building the JER last night. The wires were a ***** to cut and solder just so. That said, what a build. Hoping to wrangle some time to finish my jer pad next week. For now though:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dantambok]

Finally got around to building the JER last night. The wires were a ***** to cut and solder just so. That said, what a build. Hoping to wrangle some time to finish my jer pad next week. For now though:

Show Image

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nice 910

[pr0ximity]

Starting to regret not jumping in on this buy, all these boards are looking so good!

[alisonica]

I know SF is closed on the weekend at least in the states, i would suggest trying tomorrow.

I'm in Germany, but the tracking says that the shipment is shipped to London and signed for. OP is not replying to my e-mails and PMs on GH and SF express is telling me it's been signed for and ignoring me too. 750 bucks and months of waiting for this crap service. Does anyone have any idea what I can do about this?

OP's status: Last Active: Sat, 17 November 2018, 04:47:24