Looking for Recommendations - Best Alps 'Platform' Board

[Dihedral]

I'm not quite sure what the correct word to use is for this, but let me explain to you what I'm looking for. I'm planning to build a quiet and modern-looking Alps board for my brother. This means probably using either Matias QCs or Cream Damped Alps. However I think a modern Matias board will be out of my price range (and a little boring), and all boards that came with Cream Damped Alps (e.x AEKII) look too 'old' - (read as: glorious massive hunks of yellowed ABS) for my brother's tastes. Therefore, what is the best cheaply available, modern-looking (so with a minimal footprint) and ISO board into which better switches can be transplanted? I don't care about the switches in the board as I plan to de-solder them and replace them. I DO care, obviously, about the chassis, key roll-over and connectivity, as they will be retained in the finished board.

I'm currently thinking that the Ducky XM and Filco Zero boards might be a good starting point but appreciate any ideas you may have.

Thanks for your help in advance!

[klennkellon]

The KBParadise V80 comes with QC's and is overall a pretty well built board and you can upgrade the keycaps to TaiHao doubleshots for just a little more.

[chyros]

Is an AT101 too old-fashioned?

[Dihedral]

Is an AT101 too old-fashioned?

Sadly yes. No I don't agree, but it's not my decision 

[JaccoW]

Clueboard?

[fohat.digs]

I'm currently thinking that the Ducky XM and Filco Zero boards might be a good starting point

I have both of these, I put blues in the Filco and orange in the Ducky.

Both are good boards and although the Filco is significantly sturdier, the Ducky is not nearly so bad as people like to complain about.

Many complaints about the Ducky may stem from the fact that the original XM switches are so bad.

[Dihedral]

I'm currently thinking that the Ducky XM and Filco Zero boards might be a good starting point

I have both of these, I put blues in the Filco and orange in the Ducky.

Both are good boards and although the Filco is significantly sturdier, the Ducky is not nearly so bad as people like to complain about.

Many complaints about the Ducky may stem from the fact that the original XM switches are so bad.

How painful is the soldering/desoldering process for each of them?

[fohat.digs]

How painful is the soldering/desoldering process for each of them?

Not so bad, although older lead solder is easier to work with.

My experience is that older Alps boards often present problems in de-soldering, with about a quarter of Dell AT101s being particularly bad when the assembler bent over many or all of the pins before soldering them down. On Apples it is less common, and most Northgates come off easier, although, in my experience, Northgate pads are far more fragile and likely to come up during switch removal.

The only blue donors that I have used have been LE2014s, and those switches came off fairly well. Switch removal is easier if you are not re-using the PCB, of course.

[Dihedral]

How painful is the soldering/desoldering process for each of them?

Not so bad, although older lead solder is easier to work with.

My experience is that older Alps boards often present problems in de-soldering, with about a quarter of Dell AT101s being particularly bad when the assembler bent over many or all of the pins before soldering them down. On Apples it is less common, and most Northgates come off easier, although, in my experience, Northgate pads are far more fragile and likely to come up during switch removal.

The only blue donors that I have used have been LE2014s, and those switches came off fairly well. Switch removal is easier if you are not re-using the PCB, of course.

That's good information to know, thanks.