how tall is this front? looks pretty tall.
If I want to get one that looks like the sample is it dark blue top, e-white bottom and dark blue badge and plate?
Looks amazing. Any plans for a 75% version in the future? 65% might even make me bite.
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It says top mount or tray mount. Is there a photo of the top mount version? I see where you discuss it, but I cannot see a plate in that photo.
Also, I am very interested in a WKL option. Any chance we could see a prototype of that before the GB ends?
It says top mount or tray mount. Is there a photo of the top mount version? I see where you discuss it, but I cannot see a plate in that photo.
Also, I am very interested in a WKL option. Any chance we could see a prototype of that before the GB ends?
There's actually a top mount photo under the text "The standard and recommended plate is the top mounting plate." The top case and the plate are both dark blue so you didn't notice.
It's not possible to get another prototype made, at least from the factory I'm working with. This is already the second prototype I received. I can do a render if you just want to see how a WKL version looks.
It says top mount or tray mount. Is there a photo of the top mount version? I see where you discuss it, but I cannot see a plate in that photo.
Also, I am very interested in a WKL option. Any chance we could see a prototype of that before the GB ends?
There's actually a top mount photo under the text "The standard and recommended plate is the top mounting plate." The top case and the plate are both dark blue so you didn't notice.
It's not possible to get another prototype made, at least from the factory I'm working with. This is already the second prototype I received. I can do a render if you just want to see how a WKL version looks.
Yes, please. I think a render would do.
You don't seem to have prices listed anywhere for the extra badges or the PCB.
Any album with fancy pictures?
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Would it be possible to see a side view of and possibly a front view as well (like the first photo but from both the side and front?)
I measured some of my boards and they mostly range from 17mm-20mm in the front. 22mm (23mm with feet) seems high, but I might just have to make it work for this unique board.
In case anyone needs reference, here are a few of the boards I measured the front height of (all with rubber feet):
Vortex Pok3r: 11mm
TEX low profile aluminum and acrylic: 13mm
Winkeyless Bold Case (B.87): 13mm
IGK V1 aluminum case: 14mm
Canoe: 17mm
KBP V60: 17mm
Realforce 87U: 17mm
IMB Model M: ~17.75mm (hard to tell exactly because of case design)
Tada68 High Profile: 18mm
CM Novatouch and Rapid-I: 18.5mm
KBDfans wooden: 18.5mm
M65-A: 18.5mm
KBDfans 5 degree: 18.75mm (hard to tell exactly because of case design)
Klippe: 19mm
Filco Majestouch TKL: 19mm
AEKII: 19mm
Aliexpress high profile aluminum: 19.75mm
E8-V1: 20mm
TX60 and TX65: 21mm
Norbatouch: 25mm
I also realize it is difficult to make an accurate comparison by just measuring the front of the case. A combination of large vs small bezels as well as steeper vs. flatter case angles will significantly change the height at which the first row of keycaps are measured. Then, add on top of that the variance in of how deep the switches are inset into the case.
Hello.
Would a custom xd75 plate be possible?
Thanks
when you say custom colour.. do you mean the blue can be changed to another colour? also what about the price of shipping?
when you say custom colour.. do you mean the blue can be changed to another colour? also what about the price of shipping?
Yes. There are 3 parts. The case top (blue in the prototype), the case bottom (white in the prototype) and top mount plate (recommended but not required if you bring your own plate and use the standoffs for plate mounting)
Interested to see what color combos people use. I'm wracking my brain trying to think of something awesome. Might do dark gray bottom with a pantone matched dark burgundy color to Maxkey Royal set.
Which badge color do we go with for it to look closest to the original?
With the custom color, if we want the top and bottom the same. Is that $30 or $60?
hi, so assuming we buy everything thru the GB, to build out a keyboard we would need:
the base kit +
a plate+
pcb
?
how does the top case support the different bottom row layouts? blockers that clip in? looks really great, would be nice if we could see it with other keycaps, otherwise this would really be a keyboard built for only one keycap set!
How does the breakout board connect to the PCB? Will that be a problem for PCBs with different types of ports?
If I have a regular plate and pcb (60%) already made would I be able to use those instead of the custom option available?
Can I choose the color of case weight ？Is there a brass version？
Just to clarify, I can recase a Pok3r with this, yes?
How thick is the brass plate?
Do you have images of the badge?
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Do you have images of the badge?
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No, I don't have a prototype with the badge. You can see how the badge looks in the render (https://imgur.com/ZG725P6).
Thanks! Honestly the biggest problem for me right now is deciding colours :))
Looks really nice, tempting. All plates except the custom carbon fibre ones are wkl hhkb only? Will you provide the plate files so that everyone can get custom metal plates cut?
And do you have a sample picture with gmk caps? I wonder how it'll look with not so tall caps :D
After filling out the forum, how/when will payment be collected?
I don't have the dasher set... :( but I plan on getting it. Doesn't feel right putting any other keyset on a board that says 'Modern Dasher' lo
Thanks! Honestly the biggest problem for me right now is deciding colours :))
I'll be the same if I don't have a Dasher keyset. I would probably choose some simple color combos such as black&white, grey&black. I hope someone can come up with some really awesome color combos though.
When will the new pictures come out? I already placed my order, but if I can change colours I might.Looks really nice, tempting. All plates except the custom carbon fibre ones are wkl hhkb only? Will you provide the plate files so that everyone can get custom metal plates cut?
And do you have a sample picture with gmk caps? I wonder how it'll look with not so tall caps :D
Here (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/56c8023cb623af182ceaaa769a2058fb) is the supported layout. It's kinda like the layout RAMA M60-A supports.
Sure I can upload the plate files if anyone needs it.
I have tested GMK caps on the prototype case. My GMK set didn't match the case color very well tbh. I anticipated someone would ask this question so I plan to borrow some sets from my friends and take some more photos. Hope the result turns out to be good. I'd be disappinted if everyone in the GB choose blue top and white bottom.
Looks really nice, tempting. All plates except the custom carbon fibre ones are wkl hhkb only? Will you provide the plate files so that everyone can get custom metal plates cut?
And do you have a sample picture with gmk caps? I wonder how it'll look with not so tall caps :D
Here (http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/56c8023cb623af182ceaaa769a2058fb) is the supported layout. It's kinda like the layout RAMA M60-A supports.
Sure I can upload the plate files if anyone needs it.
I have tested GMK caps on the prototype case. My GMK set didn't match the case color very well tbh. I anticipated someone would ask this question so I plan to borrow some sets from my friends and take some more photos. Hope the result turns out to be good. I'd be disappinted if everyone in the GB choose blue top and white bottom.
Good to know only problem is that I filled out more than one forum since I used the wrong email. If you could send the invoices separately so I can choose which one is correct that would be great.After filling out the forum, how/when will payment be collected?
I'll send out the invoiced before GB close. The deadline for payment is the next day after GB close. Let me know if anyone plan to join but need more time to collect money.
Doesn't feel right putting any other keyset on a board that says 'Modern Dasher'
after giving this some thought i think a number of the SA keycaps would look good on this if you matched the top plate colors.
what i'm more uncertain about is other profiles like GMK or DSA which are not as high.
it would be super interesting to see two similiar caps in different profiles on this case (e.g. GMK vs SA Carbon, SA Godspeed vs XDA Godspeed etc)
and incidentally if zslane were to buy one of these, is there really any question what keycaps he would put on it? btw, waiting with anticipation for my rocketeer kb!
after giving this some thought i think a number of the SA keycaps would look good on this if you matched the top plate colors.
what i'm more uncertain about is other profiles like GMK or DSA which are not as high.
it would be super interesting to see two similiar caps in different profiles on this case (e.g. GMK vs SA Carbon, SA Godspeed vs XDA Godspeed etc)
and incidentally if zslane were to buy one of these, is there really any question what keycaps he would put on it? btw, waiting with anticipation for my rocketeer kb!
You know, after all of these keycaps and all of this time, I still think Dasher has the best colors. I don't know why, but the saturation levels and that blue are just perfect in my eyes. I'd say 9009, muted, and Dasher are my top 3 of all time.
Personally, I'm still thinking about doing the darker Pantone from ye_cole's Royalty set for the top and dark gray or silver for the bottom. I would do both the dark and light pantones, but it seems unlikely they would turn out exactly right, and then I'd have 4 colors of burgundy. In addition, I will probably pick up a dark gray or white extra top piece for other builds down the road. I change my mind a lot :P
When will the new pictures come out? I already placed my order, but if I can change colours I might.
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We may need more color renderings
Good to know only problem is that I filled out more than one forum since I used the wrong email. If you could send the invoices separately so I can choose which one is correct that would be great.
You know, after all of these keycaps and all of this time, I still think Dasher has the best colors. I don't know why, but the saturation levels and that blue are just perfect in my eyes. I'd say 9009, muted, and Dasher are my top 3 of all time.
Personally, I'm still thinking about doing the darker Pantone from ye_cole's Royalty set for the top and dark gray or silver for the bottom. I would do both the dark and light pantones, but it seems unlikely they would turn out exactly right, and then I'd have 4 colors of burgundy. In addition, I will probably pick up a dark gray or white extra top piece for other builds down the road. I change my mind a lot :P
We may need more color renderings
I'm not good at rendering but here (https://imgur.com/a/xzrAzPe)you are.
This is waaay more than I can afford, but can I just say, this is one of the coolest custom things I've ever seen in my life xD .
so i agree that dasher/dancer is still iconic keyset even 3 years later. i just picked up a dancer set, but putting it on this board is not that simple. i just have the tkl set, so no extension keys, so my issues:
get the standard with the 1u win keys, and source 1u bottom row keys and a 1u backspace
get the wkl, source the 1u backspace and 7u spacebar (at least SP still sell this)
at least hhkb is not for me
either way is tricky because if you dont have these oddball keys, and you wouldnt unless you bought it to handle an ortho and wkl board 3 years ago
with all that said, im still thinking if jumping in!
and is getting a second top piece an option? i did not see that.
:thumb: When will the invoice be sent?I think the they said sometime around the end of the GB.
Is there a way to edit the GB submission instead of making a new one? I don't want to overload the creator with different submissions but only have one that I want.
And do you have a sample picture with gmk caps? I wonder how it'll look with not so tall caps :D
We may need more color renderings
what i'm more uncertain about is other profiles like GMK or DSA which are not as high.
it would be super interesting to see two similiar caps in different profiles on this case (e.g. GMK vs SA Carbon, SA Godspeed vs XDA Godspeed etc)
and incidentally if zslane were to buy one of these, is there really any question what keycaps he would put on it? btw, waiting with anticipation for my rocketeer kb!
so i agree that dasher/dancer is still iconic keyset even 3 years later. i just picked up a dancer set, but putting it on this board is not that simple. i just have the tkl set, so no extension keys
so i agree that dasher/dancer is still iconic keyset even 3 years later. i just picked up a dancer set, but putting it on this board is not that simple. i just have the tkl set, so no extension keys
Why not just put a normal 60% board inside this case and use the Dancer keys on that?
hi, thanks for the additional pics. i just noticed that the right shift is also a small shiftt, is that required for this plate+PCB?
how much would an extra top plate be? would be interested in having a different color top plate (maybe even in a different layout for a different plate), then could do WKL or standard depending on mood or keycaps
maybe i'm over complicating things, is this the easy/simple solution to my problem? so going with a standard 60 plate (and a matching PCB) would then allow for a more standard layout?
Will you release the plate DXF files after the GB, so we could do custom top mount plates? I prefer steel and split space layouts.
Sure, I know I can use tray mount plates, but would like to feel the difference.
hi, thanks for the additional pics. i just noticed that the right shift is also a small shiftt, is that required for this plate+PCB?
how much would an extra top plate be? would be interested in having a different color top plate (maybe even in a different layout for a different plate), then could do WKL or standard depending on mood or keycapsok that makes sense, so for the CF plate that you can provide, one of the options would be standard ansi (so no need to modify etc), so that's a good option. maybe i can order the standard package with the brass plate and add an ansi plate if i want to use a more standard layout later.
ok, now just to decide if i want to build it for dasher/dancer or more neutral set....
maybe i'm over complicating things, is this the easy/simple solution to my problem? so going with a standard 60 plate (and a matching PCB) would then allow for a more standard layout?
An extra top case is $100.
Yeah, you can just order a custom ANSI layout carbon fiber plate and buy a normal 60% PCB (satan, xiudi, dz60).
Awesome, thank you. Looking forward to this beauty. :thumb:Will you release the plate DXF files after the GB, so we could do custom top mount plates? I prefer steel and split space layouts.
Sure, I know I can use tray mount plates, but would like to feel the difference.
Yes, I will.
Yeah, you can just order a custom ANSI layout carbon fiber plate and buy a normal 60% PCB (satan, xiudi, dz60).
I would like to have one set in the same colors as the showed sample(blue alu plate), with HHKB layout, badget, one extra brass plate.
I choose these options:
Layout:
HHKB
Top Case:
Dark Blue
Bottom Case:
E-white
Badge:
E-White
Plate:
Dark Blue
PCB number:
0
Second plate:
brass
Second badget:
No
Are these options correct?
Can you get it without the badge? It would drive me nuts that it is not aligned to the right.
any reason why the badge would not be flush with the right-most keys like the original design? I don't think I can get over the badge or where it is unfortunately. GLWGB
any reason why the badge would not be flush with the right-most keys like the original design? I don't think I can get over the badge or where it is unfortunately. GLWGB
Hmmm... that's actually a good question. I see no reason why it wouldn't be right aligned to the edge of the keycaps. Weird
BTW, that new render looks awesome. Would that be a silver or gray base?
any reason why the badge would not be flush with the right-most keys like the original design? I don't think I can get over the badge or where it is unfortunately. GLWGB
Hmmm... that's actually a good question. I see no reason why it wouldn't be right aligned to the edge of the keycaps. Weird
BTW, that new render looks awesome. Would that be a silver or gray base?
Thanks. I'm not good at rendering. Credit goes to Trianglelab. It's a gray base in the render.
Yeah, the position of the sticker can be a problem. Originally that should be a sticker so there are no such problems. I tried to add the sticker to different positions and finally put it there.
I won't persist if someone believes it's better the badge is aligned to the right edge of the keycaps. What do you think?
Is it too much trouble to move the sticker on your prototype? If we could see side by side it would be a better way to judge.
any reason why the badge would not be flush with the right-most keys like the original design? I don't think I can get over the badge or where it is unfortunately. GLWGB
Hmmm... that's actually a good question. I see no reason why it wouldn't be right aligned to the edge of the keycaps. Weird
BTW, that new render looks awesome. Would that be a silver or gray base?
Thanks. I'm not good at rendering. Credit goes to Trianglelab. It's a gray base in the render.
Yeah, the position of the sticker can be a problem. Originally that should be a sticker so there are no such problems. I tried to add the sticker to different positions and finally put it there.
I won't persist if someone believes it's better the badge is aligned to the right edge of the keycaps. What do you think?
Thanks for the suggestions. The original idea of this case was to match Dasher/Dancer keyset. I'm also curious what color people will choose and what keysets they will match. There are infinite possibilities as I'm offering fully custom colors.
Is it too much trouble to move the sticker on your prototype? If we could see side by side it would be a better way to judge.
I vote for the alignment. And I think the badge could go in the middle(or a bit higher) between the top edge of top case and keycaps, similar but not exactly like the vintage keyboard:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rmEs7Gh.jpg)
I gotta tell you, now that I've seen MiTo's Ares Godspeed MT3 keyset (https://www.massdrop.com/talk/10479/godspeed-mt-3-pbtl) that is in the works, I'm seriously thinking about a White and Orange Modern Dasher to go with it...
I like the right aligned version.
All the orders have been invoiced except the orders with custom colors. The deadline for payment is 11/01 anywhere in the world.
How is the badge going to be attached to the case?
hi i submitted my form monday night but have not received an invoice, will a final round of invocies be sent tonite?
By the by, do we know how many of these were made?
Sorry to be irritating. Shipping might start next week?
Thanks
Sorry to be irritating. Shipping might start next week?
Thanks
Have you paid the shipping invoice? Your board is already in transit if you did.
Received mine, very, very beautiful. The white is awesome.
BUT for all of you, who plan to use the stand-offs. They are of very poor quality. Material is way too soft. The thread is filled with paint and/or are too small. Sheared off 3 stand-offs so far. Even after using another screw to redo the threading. Sad to see such a nice case ruined by cheap stand-offs. :-(
"Stand-offs":Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cD2L3Z9.jpg)
Update: They are also very short, at least none of my screws from other cases fit without washers.
I've just received the board. It's high quality. I like it a lot. I didn't receive any stickers? Also, I need a few pointers about soldering the mail USB part to the breakout USB board?
i'm guessing that the standoffs are used for top mounted plates--i.e. not the included plate? if someone figures out the right threading could they share, then we can get the right tap to chase the threads before trying to mount the standoffs.
just got mine and only have a few minutes to look at it. i have mixed feelings, overall its pretty solid, but there are a few details that are different or were unknown during the GB:
-my logo is metal and engraved, but its only a single color white, its not colored at all, i think the sticker actually looked better!
-the finish on the brass weight looks very different to me than the samples, its more of a matte brushed, i was not expecting polished but this has more texture to it
-the daughter board thing always confused me but i understand now that i have it, the PCB does have a usb-c port on it, but since there is such a large bezel, the port on the PCB (either included or GH60) requires you to have a pigtail from the daughterboard to the PCB of your choice. i don't mind this, but it wouldve been nice to have additional daughterboards available, since it only comes with one i'm locked in based on which PCB i want to use
i'll hold off final judgement until i have more time to look at it and get it built, would appreciate other peoples thoughts as they receive theirs.
would also appreciate if someone takes pictures or provide diagram for soldering the breakout board, the board is labeled but i'm always not sure when soldering the connecters....
Here are some pics of my board. The stand offs are not pre inserted for the breakout board. I also had a small scratch around the edge of the bottom near the foot. There is also some visible banding around the corners when in certain light. As I've stated before my board doesn't weigh around 4kg and more around 3kg. I'm guessing this is because I didn't opt for the plates. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/1f54155105845c1474cdbc091adc319d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/9992aae3753641b1546e9eb0cd719768.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/69c84cec666e518c03dd8f20269d1df6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/bd0ff8666e6eb2ffdafb98a30584a755.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/9bf46a0520945b3b53ee110be450697a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/18cab7247b862ac479241c26c2dbe057.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/3279cdae2ee3e02f3b40975aa497f96e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/70827855a6dfbdb04da8b36b2c2ba0f1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/3dc40a7fc0ec6093314f8c5816e7d9f9.jpg)I've just received the board. It's high quality. I like it a lot. I didn't receive any stickers? Also, I need a few pointers about soldering the mail USB part to the breakout USB board?
any pics? I don't understand the soldering issue. So the breakout board didn't come with the header soldered on?
Happy New Year everyone - hope 2019 brings good health and lots of laughter and love. Can you please provide a diagram oh how to solder these two pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/60eYwv6.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/60eYwv6)
Thanks
How about the mini usb version? Is it any different?
Happy New Year everyone - hope 2019 brings good health and lots of laughter and love. Can you please provide a diagram oh how to solder these two pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/60eYwv6.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/60eYwv6)
ThanksShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/VT6pRNQ.png)
Happy New Year!
How about the mini usb version? Is it any different?
Happy New Year everyone - hope 2019 brings good health and lots of laughter and love. Can you please provide a diagram oh how to solder these two pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/60eYwv6.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/60eYwv6)
ThanksShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/VT6pRNQ.png)
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year everyone - hope 2019 brings good health and lots of laughter and love. Can you please provide a diagram oh how to solder these two pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/60eYwv6.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/60eYwv6)
ThanksShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/VT6pRNQ.png)
Happy New Year!
My TR60w PCB came with no firmware installed on it. I tried the standoffs, which I bought for my other top but couldn't screw them on the bottom. I think I'll buy another plate and TR60w PCB because I don't think the standoffs are usable. The better option will be to custom made a new top mounting plate?
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/07PQW5t.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YEKfHdb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jMe9JhL.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9LKFp6e.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dby6zgF.jpg)
The quality of the product is very low.
It is too fragile and easily breakable.
Stand-bolts break even I didn't put much strength on them to screw.
I don't know what to do with them any more...
I wonder if there is a discord for D60.
If anyone knows the address, please please let me know!!!!
Any TR60w PCB firmware files, please?
This looks exactly like my case. I have two working stand-offs in total. Both on the right side.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/07PQW5t.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YEKfHdb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jMe9JhL.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9LKFp6e.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dby6zgF.jpg)
The quality of the product is very low.
It is too fragile and easily breakable.
Stand-bolts break even I didn't put much strength on them to screw.
I don't know what to do with them any more...
I wonder if there is a discord for D60.
If anyone knows the address, please please let me know!!!!
Same as well. I am getting a bit worried as I don't really know what to do and don't want to damage any more screws/standoffs.This looks exactly like my case. I have two working stand-offs in total. Both on the right side.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/07PQW5t.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/YEKfHdb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/jMe9JhL.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9LKFp6e.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dby6zgF.jpg)
The quality of the product is very low.
It is too fragile and easily breakable.
Stand-bolts break even I didn't put much strength on them to screw.
I don't know what to do with them any more...
I wonder if there is a discord for D60.
If anyone knows the address, please please let me know!!!!
did anyone try cleaning out the threads? I've seen this on other builds. Standoff quality is part of it, but if the holes are filled with sandblast material, you need to get them clean.
did anyone try cleaning out the threads? I've seen this on other builds. Standoff quality is part of it, but if the holes are filled with sandblast material, you need to get them clean.
How would we clean it out?
So far I've been able to clean out 2 additional screw holes by just slowly threading a loose m2 screw, stopping just before it tightens up, and taking it out again to pick at with a pair of tweezers. However my middle screw hole has a clot of some kind of metal in it stopping anything from going in at all. For now I'm just going to use 3 standoffs.did anyone try cleaning out the threads? I've seen this on other builds. Standoff quality is part of it, but if the holes are filled with sandblast material, you need to get them clean.
How would we clean it out?
Soak the holes with warm water and soap. I would try using a wire or nylon brush (tube brush) carefully. Gently scrape out. Probably could even try with a toothpick. I don't know the exact details, but Xondat's 268 board had the same issues with case screw holes and sheared off screws. Some people cleaned them out, some re-tapped.
IMO the board looks amazing. It's everything I hoped. This is my build - TR60w PCB and an HHKB top. I decided not to use standoffs. I tried but the threads are too dirty I might try to clean them later. I also screwed up the breakout USB board and had to improvise :). My suggestion is to use longer wires. It is to difficult to assemble with what we've got. I will probably buy another PCB and plate to avoid the standoffs issues. My major problem is programming the PCB. I used the hex file provided in the OP but I'm missing arrows and all the navigation keys? It'll be great to have the source so we can change the key mapping and compile our own hex files. I'm sure Ramiel will provide the link once the Trianglelab pushes the codes to GitHub.
(http://i.imgur.com/hzlpLol.jpg) (https://imgur.com/hzlpLol)
i put in some time with mine as well. would concur that a few details could be better, but the hex file flashed no problem, the pigtail soldering was tedious, but i got it done (free tip, when you connect the pigtail to the pcb to test, make sure to push until it clicks, if you dont the board will still recognize but none of the keys will work, took me a bit to figure that out.
will prolly get to installing switches and caps tomorrow, i dont have a perfect set of dasher (well for me dancer) caps as i'm missing some of the special size keys, but as fate/luck would have it i grabbed those missing keys in the last massdrop recap sale this past weekend, so i guess it was meant to be!
i dont have switches in mine yet, and mine is the Winkey version, but when i manually tested the pads, the only pad that didnt register was the key to the right of the right shift (what you have as FN on your board). did you try that key with WASD? otherwise i have no clue we'll have to wait for the map from Ramiel or the code to posted to QMK so we can build our own.
just in case people are like me and subscribed to this thread but not reading the 1st message in this thread. ramiel posted the link to the foxlab qmk repo. its not part of the main QMK repo yet, so you'll need to clone it, but its pretty straightforward to modify. i finally got a few keys swapped (use mac) and WASD programmed for arrows.
and my odd keys came, in sorry for poor lighting its night here! https://imgur.com/gL2IUTe
Can anyone help with wiring for the mini usb? I'm kinda lost hereWhat exactly do you need help with? Pin out? Tips for soldering?
Can anyone help with wiring for the mini usb? I'm kinda lost hereWhat exactly do you need help with? Pin out? Tips for soldering?
Can anyone help with wiring for the mini usb? I'm kinda lost hereWhat exactly do you need help with? Pin out? Tips for soldering?
I was going to ask the same thing. No clue about this part. A video explanation or photos of pin outs outs and where the wires go, and soldering tips would be perfect!!!
Any idea where to source a replacement USB-C daughterboard setup? I've tried multiple times, resoldered the wires, used different wires, used plugs cut from other cables, etc. all with no success so I'm assuming just a problem with the daughterboard.
I get power to the PCB (lights come on) but key presses are not recognized. This is with any USB-C PCB I am trying. They work fine without the extension piece. I am making sure all plugs are clicked in as far as they can go, etc.
Any help? I've tried to reach out to switchoverflow by email but not getting any response so hopefully someone here has a source.
Ramiel you really knocked it out of the park on this one.
Ramiel you really knocked it out of the park on this one.
Ramiel you really knocked it out of the park on this one.
This is a beautiful colour scheme. Looks great.
Ramiel you really knocked it out of the park on this one.
Hey man, great to see you around! You’ve got a lovely build!
What Keycaps are those? They appear to be GMK, but not sure what is that color scheme called.
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i built mine with the optional plate+pcb so i can't comment directly on the standoff issue here, but it seems like you need to chase or rethread the standoffs. the standoffs are not strong enough to clean out the mounts. ideally you need to use a tap to re-thread the mounts, if you don't have access to a tap use a bolt (not a screw, you wont be able to turn it tight enough) and slowly tighten it, loosen it, clean it out until you can get a bolt all the way in and out cleanly.
Sometimes people want to try different layouts. The top-mounted plate and matching PCB are great but you want to try new layouts. I tried to buy another top-mounted plate from Triangle lab. Ramiel arranged it so I can use the DZ60 PCB with it. I had to buy it on Taobao https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=586248649082. I tried but my order was declared invalid and I was refunded. This is the 4th time I try to buy stuff from Taobao but no success yet :( If there is enough interest we should try to buy it as a group? I don't speak Chinese unfortunately and I'm not trying Taobao again.
So I got the thing built but something when haywire with my pcb and about 4 keys don't work at all and a "column" of keys malfunction when pressed. I'll just order a different 60% pcb and use that. All in all the board looks and feels incredible, I just can't wait to get to use it :D
So I got the thing built but something when haywire with my pcb and about 4 keys don't work at all and a "column" of keys malfunction when pressed. I'll just order a different 60% pcb and use that. All in all the board looks and feels incredible, I just can't wait to get to use it :D
i would double check the soldering you did on the daughterboard. is this the hotswap PCB or your own tray mount one? if you take the PCB out of the case and plug directly into the PCB does it still do the same thing?
hi, so i'm a little confused. this supports EITHER the top mount plate and hotswap PCB OR a bottom mount plate + PCB--which is pretty much any generic GH60 style 60% keyboard.
if you bought the PCB and matching plate, you do not need to use the standoffs at all. the plate actually screws into the top of the case from the underside. if you line up the plate on the underside of the top you should see how it bolts in. this pictures shows it, see how the plate is bolted around the edges to the underside of the top.
https://i.imgur.com/cFcs762.jpg
So I got the thing built but something when haywire with my pcb and about 4 keys don't work at all and a "column" of keys malfunction when pressed. I'll just order a different 60% pcb and use that. All in all the board looks and feels incredible, I just can't wait to get to use it :D
i would double check the soldering you did on the daughterboard. is this the hotswap PCB or your own tray mount one? if you take the PCB out of the case and plug directly into the PCB does it still do the same thing?
Unfortunately that isn't the issue. I just tried plugging directly into the pcb after taking it out and the same keys weren't working whereas the others still are. It's random like 6, N, S all don't work. I'm chalking up to a pcb issue for now, thanks for the advice!
So I got the thing built but something when haywire with my pcb and about 4 keys don't work at all and a "column" of keys malfunction when pressed. I'll just order a different 60% pcb and use that. All in all the board looks and feels incredible, I just can't wait to get to use it :D
i would double check the soldering you did on the daughterboard. is this the hotswap PCB or your own tray mount one? if you take the PCB out of the case and plug directly into the PCB does it still do the same thing?
Unfortunately that isn't the issue. I just tried plugging directly into the pcb after taking it out and the same keys weren't working whereas the others still are. It's random like 6, N, S all don't work. I'm chalking up to a pcb issue for now, thanks for the advice!
sorry if i missed this, but is that even with no switches mounted?
Also does anyone know how I can get in contact with ramiel?
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I bought one of these second hand on Mechmarket, and got a stainless steel iso plate for it cut at laserboost, fits really well and makes it even more heavy! If anyone else wants to get a new plate in the future, these are the settings I used in http://builder.swillkb.com. to generate the plate:
Plate layout: <Add yours from kle here>
Switch Type:MX
Stabilizer Type: Cherry Only
Case type: None
Edge Padding:5.838mm
Plate Corners:2mm
Custom Polygon:
cut polygon:circle
diameter: 2.5mm
shapes relative to:[0,0]
circle centres: [51.874,50.507];[-51.874,50.507];[51.874,-50.507];[-51.874,-50.507];[121.874,50.507];[-121.874,50.507];[121.874,-50.507];[-121.874,-50.507]
Add polygon:rounded rectangle
radius: 3.2
width: 75.266
height: 10
shapes relative to: [0,0]
rounded rectangle centres: [-50.562,y];[-50.562,-y];[50.562,y];[50.562,-y]
Add polygon:rounded rectangle
radius: 3.2
width: 10
height: 68.927
shapes relative to: [0,0]
rounded rectangle centres:[[-x,0];[x,0]