[Request] EU soldering Service???

[azhdar]

Is there anyone but Margo doing soldering service in Europe?
Wanted to verify before I send a PCB oversea.



Mod edit: added [Request] tag for clarity

[suicidal_orange]

I have no experience with lube or stickers but I do have spare time and a soldering iron - what do you have in mind?

[azhdar]

2 albums of pictures of what need to be fixed: http://imgur.com/a/yV3nH & http://imgur.com/a/qbjMy


Atm L-Alt, and the whole bottom right modifier ( R-Alt, Fn1, MEnu and R-Ctrl) aren't working.
You can see the soldering is bad on the pcb, so I'm scared I damaged it.

[suicidal_orange]

If it is damaged you just need to run wires to reconnect the damaged parts of the switch matrix - one side of a switch to the diode, the other to another switch.  For the right section it will be switch-switch and the single key probably a switch-diode.  It may not be pretty but no-one sees the bottom anyway...

I'll look for some big pics of an empty PCB tomorrow and try and help you fix it yourself, if not I'd be happy to do it but 2x shipping isn't going to be cheap

[suicidal_orange]

I can't find any good empty PCB pics (they're all artistic angled blurs) but in the sober light of morning looking at your pics it looks like you removed the pad after the E of SPACE - can you confirm? 

If so that's a really unlucky pad to lift as it's right next to the controller...  Please can you take a pic of this pad and the controller from the same angle as this one so I can make out the traces?  If you can get L_ALT in too that would be great.

[Thechemist]

Lets help this guy out, he also needs some smd resistors soldered in.

[azhdar]

oh god this looks awfull:


since my soldering has improved and I'll never attempt Smd anymore.

[Thechemist]

oh god this looks awfull:

Show Image

since my soldering has improved and I'll never attempt Smd anymore.

Houston we have found the problem, run a jumper from the switch to the pad, it has a ripped trace, you can see it in the word SPACE. This should fix the switch problems i was talking about.

[suicidal_orange]

Good spot Chemist - I hadn't considered it could be that bad but the pad was definitely shot.  I can't make out the trace on the controller side of the switch though, is this a 3+ layer PCB or is it hiding in the burn/labelling? (I'm still learning )

Also can we get a similar pic of the traces on the L_ALT side azhdar?

[azhdar]

The people I borrowed the camera isn't around but I'll take a pic, thanks for the suggestion TheChemist I'll try it.

[Thechemist]

The people I borrowed the camera isn't around but I'll take a pic, thanks for the suggestion TheChemist I'll try it.

Did the jumper fix the other switches? if so I know a semi easy way to do smd soldering if you want to tackle it yourself.

flow some solder on one side of the pad, place the smd resistor on top, reflow the solder so that the tip touches the pad and the resistor, then just solder the other side like you would anything else.

[azhdar]

The people I borrowed the camera isn't around but I'll take a pic, thanks for the suggestion TheChemist I'll try it.

Did the jumper fix the other switches? if so I know a semi easy way to do smd soldering if you want to tackle it yourself.

flow some solder on one side of the pad, place the smd resistor on top, reflow the solder so that the tip touches the pad and the resistor, then just solder the other side like you would anything else.

Did not do it yet.

Thanks for the trick TheChemist, I actually fixed a SMD diode not a long ago: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1675235#msg1675235
But with the gear I have: too large tip, terrible tweezers and my non-experience It took me nearly 20minutes to fix one diode :\

So I don't really want to try it anymore.

And I'm in discussion with one european that might help me, thanks guys.

[Thechemist]

The people I borrowed the camera isn't around but I'll take a pic, thanks for the suggestion TheChemist I'll try it.

Did the jumper fix the other switches? if so I know a semi easy way to do smd soldering if you want to tackle it yourself.

flow some solder on one side of the pad, place the smd resistor on top, reflow the solder so that the tip touches the pad and the resistor, then just solder the other side like you would anything else.

Did not do it yet.

Thanks for the trick TheChemist, I actually fixed a SMD diode not a long ago: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1675235#msg1675235
But with the gear I have: too large tip, terrible tweezers and my non-experience It took me nearly 20minutes to fix one diode :\

So I don't really want to try it anymore.

And I'm in discussion with one european that might help me, thanks guys.

Well if the jumper fixes the problem I think you should do the smd soldering yourself. It is one thing to replace smt with an iron and another to solder one to a blank pad. Give it a try, flow some solder on one pad, you don't have to rush. Place the resistor on the pad and reflow the solder you just put on that pad, the resistor will be held in place now so the other side will be simple to solder.

[azhdar]

Bottom right row is back, thanks guys, what pictures would you need for the Lalt issue?

[suicidal_orange]

Most important is to see the traces, so similar angle to the last one would be good.  It sounds like an issue between the switch and diode so shouldn't need a big pic

[azhdar]

pic:

[azhdar]

I'll try again tonight but I seems that the L-Alt pins were returning and A input which would be a Q actually since I'm in Azerty.

[Thechemist]

I'll try again tonight but I seems that the L-Alt pins were returning and A input which would be a Q actually since I'm in Azerty.

So everything seems to be working now?

[azhdar]

I'll try again tonight but I seems that the L-Alt pins were returning and A input which would be a Q actually since I'm in Azerty.

So everything seems to be working now?

Not exactly since my L-Alt is giving me a Q

Bottom right row fixed thanks to the jumper though.

[Thechemist]

I'll try again tonight but I seems that the L-Alt pins were returning and A input which would be a Q actually since I'm in Azerty.

So everything seems to be working now?

Not exactly since my L-Alt is giving me a Q

Bottom right row fixed thanks to the jumper though.

There are no other jumpers on the pcb only the one on spacebar right? I remember we tried doing another jumper somewhere around L_alt before, if it's still on there, remove it.

[azhdar]

I'll try again tonight but I seems that the L-Alt pins were returning and A input which would be a Q actually since I'm in Azerty.

So everything seems to be working now?

Not exactly since my L-Alt is giving me a Q

Bottom right row fixed thanks to the jumper though.

There are no other jumpers on the pcb only the one on spacebar right? I remember we tried doing another jumper somewhere around L_alt before, if it's still on there, remove it.

All is finally working, I forgot I changed the L-Alt mapping to Q to verify if it was working. Good thing the NerdGui is powerfull.
2 questions :
- the pad we ran a jump wire on is the 7u Spacebar pad, Can I hope to use a switch on it to achieve a layout with a 7u spacebar or should I forget about
- one of the keys registered half of the time, I'll try another switch on it, but otherwise what could it be?

[DanielT]

It's great you got it working
You will be able to use the 7u switch there is no problem.
I had switches that worked from time to time, it was just some dirt, opened the switch blown some air and the problem was gone.
On one plate mounted switch I just didn't want to desolder it so I just hit it like it was F5 on a Bro sale page )

[azhdar]

It's great you got it working
You will be able to use the 7u switch there is no problem.
I had switches that worked from time to time, it was just some dirt, opened the switch blown some air and the problem was gone.
On one plate mounted switch I just didn't want to desolder it so I just hit it like it was F5 on a Bro sale page )

Ok thanks Daniel, I'll mod the switchs to ergo-clears so I'll look what's up inside.

And Happy birthday to you my friend !!!

[DanielT]

Ok thanks Daniel, I'll mod the switchs to ergo-clears so I'll look what's up inside.

And Happy birthday to you my friend !!!

Thanks

Most probably is just some dirt, if you open the switches use a fine brush to clean the dust. I had this with some vintage blacks, the board I used to harvest these had a lot of dust bunnies so I took a fine painting brush (soft hair but thicker brush something like 5mm diameter) and cleaned each switch. Worked wonders