Suggestion, can you add support for PCB-mount switches?I suppose I could add support for PCB mount switches. It would take re-working most of the trace routes but I am sure I can do it eventually.
One more thing: Does it support Cherry-style stabilizers?Correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know the plate mount Cherry-style stabilizers only need the mounting plate to support them in order to be compatible. Since this revision does not support PCB mount switches, I also did not make any accommodations to support PCB mount Cherry stabilizers.
Yes, that's true.One more thing: Does it support Cherry-style stabilizers?Correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know the plate mount Cherry-style stabilizers only need the mounting plate to support them in order to be compatible. Since this revision does not support PCB mount switches, I also did not make any accommodations to support PCB mount Cherry stabilizers.
I'd greatly appreciate it if you added accommodations for Cherry screw-in PCB mount stabs, as plate-mount Cherry stabs are ridiculously overpriced. I have plans for a custom keyboard project and was looking forever for a PCB like this, but PCB mount switches and stabs would make this board 100% perfect.
If there is some way to donate I would gladly donate for your time and work for adding those things. Thanks!
UPDATE:
Changed footprints to support PCB mount Cherry MX switches. Next I have to reroute the traces to accommodate the new holes in the design.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Today I had a chance to re-route the traces and start adding the PCB mount cherry stabilizer footprints and noticed that it may be impossible to maintain compatibility with Costar/Filco case and plate designs and add cherry stabilizer support. This is due to how close the bottom row of switches is to the bottom case and plate edges, the Cherry stabilizers would extend off the bottom of the PCB and potentially prevent the board from being installed into a already existing case designs. I will need to acquire some Cherry style PCB mount stabilizers to do more testing before I can release a new PCB revision with support for Cherry stabilizers.
Very nice design. I want to design one myself but have a ton of learning to do with KiCad and PCB design in general. I really want a true left handed keyboard, numpad on the left and mirrored. You mentioned in your first post the KiCad files were available on your site. Do you have a link and what version of KiCad are you using ? I can only see the gerbers of the [opensource] GH80-3000 in this thread, https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92962.0. It would be nice to actually see them in KiCad.
Can somebody confirm that this PCB works with Cooler Master QuickFire XT (or other Cooler Master model)?
I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.
I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.
I also thought about using USB C connector but opted against it as the Mini USB B fits existing Filco and Rosewill cases better as these cases were designed for it, plus you can use the original cable which are supplied with these keyboards. THT USB C connectors do exist, GCT and CUI manufacture them. https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf (https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf) I am fine with making footprints myself so kicad not having the model/library available is not an issue for me. If it really is a desirable thing to have a USB C connector I can have another board revision with a USB C plug but would probably not manufacture it myself in large quantities or keep it in stock. I would only make these boards after receiving 5-10 orders (minimum 5pcs order for PCB manufacturer).
I was thinking about changing this to USB C but that's looking like it might be a bit of a pain. Kicad lists the 3D model used when looking in the footprint editor but the actual 3D model is nowhere to be found in any of the directories. Plus it looks like the connections available might all be SMD, which could be doable in an oven or with a heat gun. Being able to reach to solder pads with an iron looks to be near impossible unless there is a through hole version I'm just not finding.
I also thought about using USB C connector but opted against it as the Mini USB B fits existing Filco and Rosewill cases better as these cases were designed for it, plus you can use the original cable which are supplied with these keyboards. THT USB C connectors do exist, GCT and CUI manufacture them. https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf (https://gct.co/files/drawings/usb4085.pdf) I am fine with making footprints myself so kicad not having the model/library available is not an issue for me. If it really is a desirable thing to have a USB C connector I can have another board revision with a USB C plug but would probably not manufacture it myself in large quantities or keep it in stock. I would only make these boards after receiving 5-10 orders (minimum 5pcs order for PCB manufacturer).
It's your design and you should do what you want with it. I'm just trying to learn from it. The idea of USB C just comes from the ability to mate the connector in either direction, vs other USB types which only have one mating direction. Just a convenience really but it seems more difficult to implement electronically. GTC does have a hybrid that is through hole and SMD that looks doable, the USB4055.
The layout you have is what I want, just with the numpad on the left side, mirrored as that makes more sense to me for retaining control of the mouse and using the numpad at the same time. I'm not left handed but do work on spreadsheets daily and hate having to let go of the mouse or do the long, left handed cross over just to use the numpad. Long way to go as I'm starting from zero but the thought of designing a left handed keyboard from scratch and getting the PCBs fabricated is a nice goal to have. Having to learn KiCad and Blender, which is updating to 2.8 soon, will be a process but seems doable. Right now I rely on places like SnapEDA or Ultra Librarian for footprints and models, as the skill just isn't there yet. If it were affordable, I'd have someone design the thing and pay them for it. Not the best way to learn but it's still nice to be able to dissect a design you like and learn from.
I do appreciate people like you that share for everyone to learn from.
This is all I want to do but it seems pretty far off right now.
How hard would this be to do in a left handed model ? It looks like I'll need to flip the Teensy over, which I'm not sure will be a problem or not. It would have to be wired differently than yours but I'm not sure if what pins for each part are used really matter. For example, does LED 0 really have to be connected to B7? Then there's figuring out how to make firmware then how to get it on the teensy.
Tons to learn yet
How hard would this be to do in a left handed model ? It looks like I'll need to flip the Teensy over, which I'm not sure will be a problem or not. It would have to be wired differently than yours but I'm not sure if what pins for each part are used really matter. For example, does LED 0 really have to be connected to B7? Then there's figuring out how to make firmware then how to get it on the teensy.
Tons to learn yet
It would not be hard if you start from scratch, trying to re-work an existing design to meet your needs will be very tedious. It will be easiest to just create a schematic to match your desired design and then layout the PCB from there. I have never really done anything like this before and thought it was pretty easy if you take your time and read about basic electronics design, KiCad docs, and datasheets for measurements and footprint sizes etc. Use a printer to print test layouts from KiCad on paper in 1:1 size to ensure that your measurements are correct before manufacturing a board. You can hand wire things first to ensure your firmware and design works as intended. For the most part the pins you use does not matter. Some pins can only do specific things that others cant so make sure to reserve them if you need them. Example being SPI or analog pins. (read Teensy++2.0 schematic and Atmel AT90USB1286 datasheet) For the rows and columns you can not mix and match inside each port. For example, every B pin must be either inputs or outputs, you can not have a column on B1 and a row on B2 and so on. GND and VCC pins obviously can only be GND and VCC. You will have to program the firmware to match the pin-out of your design, in my firmware I replaced the QMK LED code completely to add the animations and layer LEDs so you would have to do that on your own as well.
I would start by buying a Teensy and hardwiring a test circuit, it can even be only a few keys and LEDs, just to understand how things work and to write the firmware. From there you will know what pins you are going to use for your design, it will make creating the schematic and PCB must easer once you have hands on experience with the hardware and software.
I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again! :)
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Wow! That would be fantastic!I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again! :)
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Its funny you say that because that is one of the reasons I started this project. I had a Majestouch Convertible 2 (JP) with a dead controller. While these are out of stock at the moment, upon the next order I will have a new batch manufactured. RN42 Bluetooth support remains unreleased due to lack of time to complete the RN42 driver code and make it user friendly. I am currently looking for an alternative to the RN42 BT module as it does not support international keys, US-ANSI only.
Wow! That would be fantastic!I have a Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 (US-ANSI version) with a dead controller. A PCB like this is exactly what it needs to live again! :)
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Its funny you say that because that is one of the reasons I started this project. I had a Majestouch Convertible 2 (JP) with a dead controller. While these are out of stock at the moment, upon the next order I will have a new batch manufactured. RN42 Bluetooth support remains unreleased due to lack of time to complete the RN42 driver code and make it user friendly. I am currently looking for an alternative to the RN42 BT module as it does not support international keys, US-ANSI only.
Speaking of bluetooth, one thing I was hesitant to ask about, since this project appeared to be already complete, was whether or not it could be adapted to use sekigon's nrf52840-based BLE Pro Micro. It's currently only supported by his own QMK fork, but many are hopeful that one day it will be merged with the main QMK project: https://github.com/sekigon-gonnoc/BLE-Micro-Pro
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Speaking of BLE-Micro-Pro, you can also check out my nRFMicro, runs full QMK as well, both wired and wireless but the nomenclature is a little bit friendlier and it has a Lipo charger onboard https://github.com/joric/nrfmicro/wiki
Is this switch pcb layout the same as ducky zero shine dk2108s? I understand ducky started out cloning filco. I know there's 4 missing switches above the numpad and various extra screw holes in the ducky, but i would do a redesign assuming the dimensions were the same.