Author Topic: Modding keycap switch position  (Read 1842 times)

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Offline dazzlerush

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Modding keycap switch position
« on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 09:54:48 »
Hello,

So I recently bought some PBT keycaps from imsto, and replaced all the keys on my Leopold aside from the spacebar. They look and feel superb. The Leopold spacebar more or less fits in with the PBT keycaps (black, matte, same general shape), but on close inspection it looks and feels a little "off" due to the different material. It's certainly not a big issue, but if at all possible, using the PBT spacebar would obviously be ideal.

Anyone got ideas/advice/old threads on how to move the stabilizer switch holes? A knife (Exacto, maybe?) and super glue? I ran several searches but nothing came up. Worst case, I go crazy and chop off the stabilizer holes, and see how the PBT spacebar feels just mounted off the main center switch - I can always go back to the stock Leopold spacebar I suppose!

Offline alaricljs

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 10:23:06 »
You do NOT want to eliminate the stabilizer.  Epoxy would be the strongest choice for putting the space bar back together and I do remember a thread where it was explained with pictures.  If I come across it, I'll post a link.
Filco w/ Imsto thick PBT
Ducky 1087XM PCB+Plate, w/ Matias "Quiet Click" spring-swapped w/ XM Greens

Offline daerid

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 10:28:15 »
It's pretty well known that the KBC sets won't fit a Leo spacebar. However, if you do end up getting this to work, remember to take a whole lot of pics and post it in the mods forum!

Offline alaricljs

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 10:34:18 »
I have a design in mind that could be done with ponoko, but I have too much on my plate for the foreseeable future.
Filco w/ Imsto thick PBT
Ducky 1087XM PCB+Plate, w/ Matias "Quiet Click" spring-swapped w/ XM Greens

Offline alaricljs

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 10:40:06 »
It would greatly depend on the strength of the materials available and the distance involved... but it would fit:

Code: [Select]
       __________
   XXX  ||||  OOO
   XXX  ||||  OOO
   XXX  ||||  OOO
  ------''''

 The X portion would be keystem shaped and the O part keystem socket shaped.  You could also partly sheet the sides for strength.
Filco w/ Imsto thick PBT
Ducky 1087XM PCB+Plate, w/ Matias "Quiet Click" spring-swapped w/ XM Greens

Offline dazzlerush

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #5 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 13:01:44 »
Thanks for the responses so far. I guess it's not really a big deal, so I might just leave it be. The keyboard still looks amazing. I think it's my psuedo-OCD acting up again - I *know* there's *one* key that's slightly different!

I'd probably throw my keyboard out my window if I had to use one of those red Esc keys or colored WASD sets!

Offline False_Dmitry_II

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 28 June 2011, 22:03:31 »
There was one guy somewhere who I think filed the original one that didn't fit (I think this was before leopolds were a thing, and I think it was for getting old cherry doubleshots to work) down, then took an extra key and cut the key around the plug off. Then he used a freaking microscope to line it up and glued it in place somehow.

and differently colored wasd is cool. If I ever get around to doing dye to any of my stuff, that will be a part of it.
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Offline The Solutor

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #7 on: Wed, 29 June 2011, 04:40:08 »
Quote
Then he used a freaking microscope to line it up and glued it in place somehow.


He should miss the MacGyver or Solutor DNA. :happy:

To align the new spacebar the easier way is:

Plug three stems on the old spacebar (the one you want to mimic), and glue the stems base on a piece of wood with two component epoxy (while still plugged on the SB)

Glue also some pieces of wood as reference to correct alignment. When epoxy is hardened remove the old spacebar plug the crossed holes on the stems and glue the new spacebar to them.

You will end with a SB aligned perfectly w/o much efforts
« Last Edit: Wed, 29 June 2011, 17:32:19 by The Solutor »
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Offline Findecanor

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #8 on: Wed, 29 June 2011, 17:17:37 »
This is how I would do it:

First grind down the old key stem with a Dremel tool if you need to.
Remove everything but the key stem from a donor key using a dremel and cutting wheel.
Slide the key stem onto the stabilizer and test with the key to see if the stem is short enough. If it isn't, then remove it from the keyboard and grind it down some more.
When you have the parts made, then get some epoxy putty. This can be found in plastic model stores. Common brands are Magic Sculpt, Milliput and Tamiya Epoxy Putty. There is also "plumbers putty" in hardware stores. You need only a very very small amount.
Knead a small bead of putty together according to instructions and place it onto the new key stem. Be sure to wash your hands now so that you won't get any putty on anything. Mount the key stem and key on the keyboard and press down until the key is straight. Then let this set overnight until the putty has hardened. When it has cured then you should be done.
🍉

Offline alaricljs

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Modding keycap switch position
« Reply #9 on: Wed, 29 June 2011, 20:46:32 »
Be warned that plumbers putty comes in a wide variety including ones that just don't solidify.
Filco w/ Imsto thick PBT
Ducky 1087XM PCB+Plate, w/ Matias "Quiet Click" spring-swapped w/ XM Greens