No fair, I have the same model but none of those fun tabs :'(
Edit: Updated driver, still not there. What version of Windows you running tp4?
You have to be running Gigabit mode to test.. at 100MBit setting, it doesn't go at high enough frequency, the test is not available.
You have to be running Gigabit mode to test.. at 100MBit setting, it doesn't go at high enough frequency, the test is not available.
That would do it. Pretty sure my unshielded 10m cable running through a hole shared by an in use power socket wouldn't cope with 100MBit of throughput so I never bothered to upgrade the switch.
I only wanted to laugh how long it thought it was because it must be so terrible :))
You have to be running Gigabit mode to test.. at 100MBit setting, it doesn't go at high enough frequency, the test is not available.
That would do it. Pretty sure my unshielded 10m cable running through a hole shared by an in use power socket wouldn't cope with 100MBit of throughput so I never bothered to upgrade the switch.
I only wanted to laugh how long it thought it was because it must be so terrible :))
haha.. well, 10 meters wouldn't make such a HUGE difference even at 1Gbit..
Try connecting it directly to ur router , you need to be in Gbit mode to initiate the test..
You have to be running Gigabit mode to test.. at 100MBit setting, it doesn't go at high enough frequency, the test is not available.
That would do it. Pretty sure my unshielded 10m cable running through a hole shared by an in use power socket wouldn't cope with 100MBit of throughput so I never bothered to upgrade the switch.
I only wanted to laugh how long it thought it was because it must be so terrible :))
haha.. well, 10 meters wouldn't make such a HUGE difference even at 1Gbit..
Try connecting it directly to ur router , you need to be in Gbit mode to initiate the test..
A nice 10m run wouldn't, but there's maybe 2m between my computer and the switch on the other side of the wall. So there's a long unshielded cable roughly coiled after going through a live power socket where it's crushed both sides... I've just looked on the other end and it is actually gigabit - test confirmed, my cable/routing is so bad it's throttled to 100MBit :cool:
You have to be running Gigabit mode to test.. at 100MBit setting, it doesn't go at high enough frequency, the test is not available.
That would do it. Pretty sure my unshielded 10m cable running through a hole shared by an in use power socket wouldn't cope with 100MBit of throughput so I never bothered to upgrade the switch.
I only wanted to laugh how long it thought it was because it must be so terrible :))
haha.. well, 10 meters wouldn't make such a HUGE difference even at 1Gbit..
Try connecting it directly to ur router , you need to be in Gbit mode to initiate the test..
A nice 10m run wouldn't, but there's maybe 2m between my computer and the switch on the other side of the wall. So there's a long unshielded cable roughly coiled after going through a live power socket where it's crushed both sides... I've just looked on the other end and it is actually gigabit - test confirmed, my cable/routing is so bad it's throttled to 100MBit :cool:Show Image(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/uhuhuh-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862523)
If you got power lines near by, or CCFL lighting (ceiling cable runs), you need at least STP..
And I've recently found out that Terminating takes alot of skill, and can make a big difference..
If you uncoil the inner twist pairs even 3 extra millimeters, it can make a difference....
All I use the link for is internet and that's only 38MBit which it can cope with. Got a free upgrade to 52MBit soon though so will have to check again then and consider an upgrade to STP if it's a problem.
I've only ever made ethernet cables using solid core so they could be bent to fit tidily to skirting boards we weren't allowed to put nails in. Worked perfectly but I'm sure it wasn't great, back then 100MBit was as good as it got at home though so it didn't matter...
So is this what tp did on gh downtime?
My apartment runs on 26AWG solid SSTP cables with shielded connecters. :D
Unless there is something really screwed, the cable should be more than adequate for home internet use. I have access to a DTX through my company and have taken it home many times for personal testing. It takes an incredible amount of abuse to slow down your average 5e or 6 cable. For a cable to be rated 5e or 6 it must be capable of a minimum throughput.Exactly, the runs aren't long enough in most homes to matter, even if you lose a little, it isn't worth the huge markup.
Even the cheapest cable will be good if it's not physically damaged and it's terminated correctly.
---------------
There is also latency added due to re-transmits, and time dilation in-games.. input-lag, etc..
And you must also consider the Labor involved in running cables, kind of a pain if you do the whole house up..
So , if you're only gonna do it ONCE... Do it right the first time... is my point....
Tp4 has done up the whole house 3 times now..... Had I known all the stuff I know now.. I would've saved alot of headache...
There is also latency added due to re-transmits, and time dilation in-games.. input-lag, etc..
And you must also consider the Labor involved in running cables, kind of a pain if you do the whole house up..
So , if you're only gonna do it ONCE... Do it right the first time... is my point....
Tp4 has done up the whole house 3 times now..... Had I known all the stuff I know now.. I would've saved alot of headache...
Typically where you get issues (other than damage or terminals) is when the wire crosses a non ethernet line. Avoid pipes, conduit, electrical cable, tv cables, etc.. Pretty much anything not an ethernet line, shielded or not. Assume nothing is properly shielded or grounded.
Freecopy and I are not saying what you did or saying is wrong, it's just over-kill.
I refuse to pay for more than cat 5e as there is no benefit unless it's a very large home or building, it's unnecessary so long as you have good wiring practices. As mentioned, cat5e has a rating it must conform to, and you can test it before pulling it through the house, if it doesn't perform as it should, demand your money back.
I'll test them later when I'm not being lazy and fishing for pokemon.
I've been meaning to get around to buying a spool and rolling my own cables anyway, do you have any recommendations for good brands/sellers? I like the look of this listing: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters--Wall-Shielded-Ethernet/dp/B004KPGPXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465160009&sr=8-1&keywords=23awg+solid+sstp (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters--Wall-Shielded-Ethernet/dp/B004KPGPXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465160009&sr=8-1&keywords=23awg+solid+sstp)
Look through my cable guide in the OP, and tick off the characteristics you believe you need..
Or tell me what you're wiring up , and how far away, and I can give you the range..
Look through my cable guide in the OP, and tick off the characteristics you believe you need..
Or tell me what you're wiring up , and how far away, and I can give you the range..
I'm doing multiple short runs under ten feet between network devices, and one longer in-wall run of about 50 feet to a server. The network is used for media streaming and filesharing both on the LAN and externally with average monthly up/down combined usage of over 10TB on the ISP, and the server's hardware is capable of 10G on the NIC and dedicated 5G on each of several storage arrays.
I'm no stranger to rolling my own cables but this is more technical detail than I've ever drilled down to, so any help is much appreciated. My goal is reliability first (this is also my work connection), speed second with "more is better" being highly applicable. My current connection maxes at single-gigabit on the LAN, and it is frequently a bottleneck.
Good to know, thanks. When I replace my cabling I'll stick with SSTP because some of the short runs are right next to (or in a wall box with) several runs of coax and power adapters hooked into a UPS. The long run hasn't been begun yet, so iunno what's inside these walls but I'll err on the side of caution and just spend for good cable upfront.
Do you have a particular brand or seller that you are using, that has good twist rate and central spine? Or, is there a specific preferred rate-of-twist I can ask for to compare while shopping?
I'll test them later when I'm not being lazy and fishing for pokemon.
I've been meaning to get around to buying a spool and rolling my own cables anyway, do you have any recommendations for good brands/sellers? I like the look of this listing: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters--Wall-Shielded-Ethernet/dp/B004KPGPXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465160009&sr=8-1&keywords=23awg+solid+sstp (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters--Wall-Shielded-Ethernet/dp/B004KPGPXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465160009&sr=8-1&keywords=23awg+solid+sstp)
Good to know, thanks. When I replace my cabling I'll stick with SSTP because some of the short runs are right next to (or in a wall box with) several runs of coax and power adapters hooked into a UPS. The long run hasn't been begun yet, so iunno what's inside these walls but I'll err on the side of caution and just spend for good cable upfront.
Do you have a particular brand or seller that you are using, that has good twist rate and central spine? Or, is there a specific preferred rate-of-twist I can ask for to compare while shopping?
I was under the impression that different twist rates between the pairs had a significant impact on reducing interference.
Also, I should probably move my cables running between my router and my two desktops. They run parallel with power for about 4 feet and are trapped over a 4 bulb florescenf fixture.
Though with checking throughput with speed test dot net I am getting all of what I am saying for and then a touch over.
Gotcha, you are right on the speed test thing. I have yet to check my LAN side as I don't notice any issues nor do anything even remotely close to that critical.I was under the impression that different twist rates between the pairs had a significant impact on reducing interference.
Also, I should probably move my cables running between my router and my two desktops. They run parallel with power for about 4 feet and are trapped over a 4 bulb florescenf fixture.
Though with checking throughput with speed test dot net I am getting all of what I am saying for and then a touch over.
The different twist rates do help reduce or eliminate interference or cross talk. This is especially needed in installations running POE.
Depending on your network needs, the interference you get from your cable routing may not be noticeable at all. I would say the light fixture will give you the most amount of interference.
As far as I know speedtest is testing your ISP speed not your network speed. Everything TP is talking about is reducing any slowdowns within your LAN.
Gotcha, you are right on the speed test thing. I have yet to check my LAN side as I don't notice any issues nor do anything even remotely close to that critical.
This thread is just incredible, the rice one is also pretty good. But the most helpful one has to be the typing guide, I honestly had never thought about resting my fingers on awefjio before reading the thread. Seriously there are so many clever tips that I had never thought about, like hitting the space bar upwards. But I have to say, hitting the space bar with the right thumb is going to require quite a lot of practice. Eventually I'll get there.