This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
oh okay cool, thanks for the info Ray! :)This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
I think it'll fit a poker case but you'd have to have a plate because it doesn't support PCB mount stabs.
This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
I think it'll fit a poker case but you'd have to have a plate because it doesn't support PCB mount stabs.
This definitely isn't a 70% if that is what you are getting at. It seems to take up the same space a poker would use but I don't know the size of the PCB.This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
I think it'll fit a poker case but you'd have to have a plate because it doesn't support PCB mount stabs.
Isn't there an extra row of keys? There's that row of 1x switches above the 1-0 stripe/row. I don't think it will fit in a Poker case.
Thanks FlyersFan1. Like I said, I'm apparently full of misunderstanding today :(. Carry on everyone :DNo worries at all CPT!!! :)
This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
I think it'll fit a poker case but you'd have to have a plate because it doesn't support PCB mount stabs.
This looks really cool, is the PCB by any chance compatible with Poker cases?
I think it'll fit a poker case but you'd have to have a plate because it doesn't support PCB mount stabs.Problem with that is that Poker cases are tray-style cases that rely upon holes in the PCB for mounting to standoffs in the case, even when using plates. So, even with a Poker-style plate for the PCB, there is still no way to mount the PCB in a Poker case or similar. :(
Nvm, I just saw that the PCB does have mounting holes for Poker cases.
Included
- Dual Cherry MX / Matias silk screened printer circuit board
- Stainless steel bent metal case plate
- Option to add Black, Blank PBT keycaps in the DSA Profile from Signature Plastics for additional cost
- USB cable
- Stabilizer assembly compatible with Signature Plastics Spacebars
QuoteIncluded
- Dual Cherry MX / Matias silk screened printer circuit board
- Stainless steel bent metal case plate
- Option to add Black, Blank PBT keycaps in the DSA Profile from Signature Plastics for additional cost
- USB cable
- Stabilizer assembly compatible with Signature Plastics Spacebars
I don't see switches listed there...
I crossed my fingers and thought, "Hall Effect", maybe?Not yet. Once I get this PCB designed, I'll start work on that.
Built by the BestI thought ripster said he was the #1 keyboard expert. :p
The Massdrop Infinity Keyboard hardware and software was designed from scratch by a team of elite keyboard enthusiasts, headed by the world expert on keyboards – Jacob Alexander.
but, no LED :(Nothing a drill and some hookup wire can't fix.
finally a keyboard with 6x space bottom row :thumb:If you go with the Matias switches just run a EL wire back and forth between the plate and PCB.
but, no LED :(
The missing plate sucks but u am very interested and an angle grinder on a dremel may solve that.
So is there software for creating custom layouts.
This looks quite enticing.
Naive question: I assume that "compatible with Matias/Alps or Cherry keycaps" only refers to the initial choice of switches, correct? That is, the stems are not going to be dual-compatible, or there is not going to be some sort of adapter to enable dual keycap compatibility -- correct?
There are obviously many keycap sets available for Cherry switches, but what about Matias/Alps? Are Alps keycaps available only through SP and harvesting them from Alps keyboards? Can you get PBT keycaps for Matias/Alps switches?
Are Alps keycaps available only through SP and harvesting them from Alps keyboards? Can you get PBT keycaps for Matias/Alps switches?
Went in @ $99 with a standard layout w/clears, this will be interesting as i am quite brutal with a soldering iron :-X, will be a fun little project. Always wanted an mx board with 1x1 backspace and a pure layout
I am not very familiar with the Alps/Matias world except to know that I like the feel of Matias switches better than any Cherry mx switch I have tried (blue, brown, vintage black, clear, and green).Are Alps keycaps available only through SP and harvesting them from Alps keyboards? Can you get PBT keycaps for Matias/Alps switches?
Currently you'll need to harvest Alps caps from old Alps keyboards such as an AEK II or Wang 724. Matias is planning on releasing PBT and ABS caps soonTM so hopefully we'll see more sets and variety since we can source most caps from SP and mods from Matias. I'm not sure where the spacebars for this board are coming from though. Perhaps Tai Hao? They have molding to do Alps but their MOQ is something very high.
I am not very familiar with the Alps/Matias world except to know that I like the feel of Matias switches better than any Cherry mx switch I have tried (blue, brown, vintage black, clear, and green).
Would I be more likely to find Alps-compatible keycaps with the standard layout rather than the hacker layout? I suppose this depends upon whether I would be getting caps from vintage Alps boards or from those that Matias might be releasing.
Spacebars are often a problem. For the 6.00x and 6.25x Alps spacebars, what will the spacing be for the spacebar stems?
pointing at configuration does not answer if layouts are user customizable, how many layers or the level of macro support for the controller.https://www.writelatex.com/read/zzqbdwqjfwwf
pointing at a blank configuration suggests there may be little software support for this chip. More information please.
Thanks
T
I thought ripster said he was the #1 keyboard expert. :p
Did squirrel get cred for his gifs being used on massdrop?
God damnit.
I was so excited for this until I saw that damned 1x backspace clustier-****.
Soooo close. Maybe I'll just get another Poker II with clears and swap out the PCB with a fully programmable one.
God damnit.
I was so excited for this until I saw that damned 1x backspace clustier-****.
Soooo close. Maybe I'll just get another Poker II with clears and swap out the PCB with a fully programmable one.
The intention is to use \| key as backspace. Or any key for that matter since it's fully remapable.
God damnit.
I was so excited for this until I saw that damned 1x backspace clustier-****.
Soooo close. Maybe I'll just get another Poker II with clears and swap out the PCB with a fully programmable one.
The intention is to use \| key as backspace. Or any key for that matter since it's fully remapable.
Oh trust me, I now. That damn backspace and \| key arrangement is the only reason I couldn't stick with the HHKB. The pain it caused my right little finger was absolutely excruciating.
I needs me a big ass backspace key in the upper right.
Wait a second... How does it stay in position on the desk? Does it have rubber feet?It actually sits on a desk pretty well. But you could definitely add some kind of rubber feet (or sugru?) if you need, or put it on a rubber mat like davkol suggests, if you really need it to never budge.
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
pretty much yes, did you see the assembly instructions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
pretty much yes, did you see the assembly instructions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view)
yeah i was just double checking here... with the people i trust :p
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
pretty much yes, did you see the assembly instructions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view
yeah i was just double checking here... with the people i trust :P
The only thing I would question is your 'pencil' tip. The tip I use is more of a wedge shape so you get better surface area to transfer the heat easier.
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
pretty much yes, did you see the assembly instructions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view
yeah i was just double checking here... with the people i trust :P
The only thing I would question is your 'pencil' tip. The tip I use is more of a wedge shape so you get better surface area to transfer the heat easier.
yeah i planned on running by the hardware shop and checking out some different tips. I feel the one im using now may be a little to fat. Thanks for the help, i would hate to butcher another keyboard :-X
noob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?That is pretty much it. Soldering is really easy, I have been doing it ever since I was 13.
Does the 1.5u type bottom row require 6.0u space bar?I believe it does. That is at least what the layout pictures say on massdrop.
chisel tip is probably your best betnoob question here, but i have no background in soldering together anything. I own a soldering iron with a pencil sized tip. So i really just need to pop the switches in the pcp and solder "cones" on the bottom? no other routing wires or diodes?
pretty much yes, did you see the assembly instructions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B44lwlGYKwHXQWQyWHVGUWdPdkU/view
yeah i was just double checking here... with the people i trust :P
The only thing I would question is your 'pencil' tip. The tip I use is more of a wedge shape so you get better surface area to transfer the heat easier.
yeah i planned on running by the hardware shop and checking out some different tips. I feel the one im using now may be a little to fat. Thanks for the help, i would hate to butcher another keyboard :-X
ram that MOQ throughnew sig quote.
Tai Hao MOQ is like 500 sets which is what has been the huge obstacle for Alps caps from them jacobulus. Hopefully MD can ram that MOQ through but I'm not that hopeful.
Come on! Only need 28 more people to join the drop for lowest price!
While the form factor is awkward it hits a good price point and feature set. I'm hoping the next round offers a 60 plate, pcb, and switches. I will probably go w/ a gon if not. The group buys while exciting are cruelly open ended when not backed by a vendor directly.
So in theory, GON's universal 60% plate should be compatible with the infinity PCB right?
The bottom edge is bent 180 degrees! I like!Yeah, that part is very nice in person. Improves rigidity, makes it smooth instead of pointy, helps it avoid scratching the table, and looks nice.
So in theory, GON's universal 60% plate should be compatible with the infinity PCB right?
http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/housings-and-related-parts/17-universal-frameplate-for-60.htmlShow Image(http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/162-thickbox_default/universal-frameplate-for-60.jpg)
I believe so, yes. I don't think it supports "hacker" layout though.
Yeah I figured it didn't support the hacker layout, but i don't care about that since I want standard.So in theory, GON's universal 60% plate should be compatible with the infinity PCB right?
http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/housings-and-related-parts/17-universal-frameplate-for-60.htmlShow Image(http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/162-thickbox_default/universal-frameplate-for-60.jpg)
I believe so, yes. I don't think it supports "hacker" layout though.
If it can fit in others cases then its no big deal, but I'd like some confirmation of that.
Based on how everyone raves about the HHKB and it's layout You'd think the hacker layout would be getting better feedback.If it can fit in others cases then its no big deal, but I'd like some confirmation of that.
If it can fit in other cases, and I can see the poker style mounting holes in the pcb, they should offer PCB only as an option. I'm not a huge fan of the 'hacker' layout because 6x space bars don't usually come in key sets. Much prefer the 1.5,1,1.5,7,1.5,1,1.5 symmetrical layout.
If it can fit in others cases then its no big deal, but I'd like some confirmation of that.
If it can fit in other cases, and I can see the poker style mounting holes in the pcb, they should offer PCB only as an option. I'm not a huge fan of the 'hacker' layout because 6x space bars don't usually come in key sets. Much prefer the 1.5,1,1.5,7,1.5,1,1.5 symmetrical layout.
In normal computer parlance push/pop you push a value and then pop whatever if on the top. So I'm a bit confused about how you can "pop" a particular layer. Is there documentation somewhere for this?
Based on how everyone raves about the HHKB and it's layout You'd think the hacker layout would be getting better feedback.If it can fit in others cases then its no big deal, but I'd like some confirmation of that.
If it can fit in other cases, and I can see the poker style mounting holes in the pcb, they should offer PCB only as an option. I'm not a huge fan of the 'hacker' layout because 6x space bars don't usually come in key sets. Much prefer the 1.5,1,1.5,7,1.5,1,1.5 symmetrical layout.
Yes, you move between the layers rather than conventional push/pop, however the way it works is like a push/pop; if you have a transparent key on layer 2, then it will look for the key in that position on layer 1.
Is there a limit to how many people can join the buy? I am hoping that it will stay open until the 27th when I get paid.As far as I know, no limit; these things aren’t going to be produced until after the drop ends.
Is there a limit to how many people can join the buy? I am hoping that it will stay open until the 27th when I get paid.There are 13 days left to join the buy and the lowest price is unlocked.
Does this thing use standard caps? I guess tenkeyless + tsangan?
Yeah, I know that, but sometimes there is a maximum number of people allowed to join a buy.Is there a limit to how many people can join the buy? I am hoping that it will stay open until the 27th when I get paid.There are 13 days left to join the buy and the lowest price is unlocked.
OK thanks. Yeah I understand how stuff like this works. They only produce the product after they know exactly how many are paid for.Is there a limit to how many people can join the buy? I am hoping that it will stay open until the 27th when I get paid.As far as I know, no limit; these things aren’t going to be produced until after the drop ends.
Oh ****.. This can support Alps.. Interested. :cool:
Oh ****.. This can support Alps.. Interested. :cool:
jacobolus's set will likely support ALPS. My plan is to make it matias and put his keycap set on it.
Give alps a real shot.
Question: is it fully programable or are there limits in some ways?
Question: is it fully programable or are there limits in some ways?Yes, it’s fully programmable. HaaTa’s firmware should make it possible to do most anything you can dream of, and Massdrop's online configurator should make it pretty easy to do simple stuff. If you have something even trickier you want it to do, you should be able to flash your own custom firmware onto it. (But not it’s an ARM chip, so soarer’s an hasu’s code won’t work.)
I'm going with the gon pcb this time round. The infinity rom and pcb look really interesting but until someone shows me one in a poker case I'm going to work w/ the gon board... Colemak native plus a couple a fn layer and some macros is really all I need function wise. The next big draw for me to update would be bluetooth that will let me switch between the phone and the laptop.
I'd really like to give matias quiet switches and torpre a proper try but mx browns are perfectly fine for my needs.
I, of course, have yet to decide if I'll alps it up , and will of course dvorak it up.
Colemak it will be with a layer for Vim navigation (can't get used to the hjkl position in colemak).
I am going to go ahead and clear this up since it seems to be an issue for some people. I believe Haata already mentioned it over in the Massdrop discussion but I don't feel like searching for it.
The PCB does fit in a poker II case (that is why it has holes for mounting to a poker II case as someone pointed out). There may or may not be a plate that will be available soon (before drop ends) this is not up to me, jacobolus, Haata or Parak at this point.
I, of course, have yet to decide if I'll alps it up , and will of course dvorak it up.
When I saw the option for Matias I was really intrigued, I just don't know if I want to deal with another incompatible keycap set. :/
Oh, I didn't realize there couldn't be two running concurrently.Well there probably could be. But I’m saying, there’s no current plan to do Alps doubleshots through MassDrop. It could possibly be made to happen, I dunno. Feel free to email SP and ask for a quote. ;)
/me wants all the Alps doubleshots.
Keycaps (MX only, DSA) should hopefully be up at MassDrop shortly. I’ll stick a link in here when they land.Show Image(http://imgur.com/h2IaRVs.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/g003xFT.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/xE0CMIA.jpg)
Above, “hacker” and “standard” layouts; top 4 rows are the same for each.
Below, on the left, bottom row and compatibility kits. On the right, a couple of the layouts supported with the compatibility kit.Show Image(http://imgur.com/h2Eypib.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/LpHGoKh.jpg)
Bad news on the printed keycaps front: Apparently SP can’t do Alps dye-subs for another "3–4 months" (so who knows when that will really be ready). So for the moment the Alps caps are going to have to just be blanks. :( :(
Bad news on the printed keycaps front: Apparently SP can’t do Alps dye-subs for another "3–4 months" (so who knows when that will really be ready). So for the moment the Alps caps are going to have to just be blanks. :( :(
Looks like the Infinity keycap massdrop is up:This one is only for Cherry mx keycaps. Is there going to be another one for Matias/Alps keycaps?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/infinity-dye-sublimated-keycap-set
<snip>
Keycaps (MX only, DSA) should hopefully be up at MassDrop shortly. I’ll stick a link in here when they land.Show Image(http://imgur.com/h2IaRVs.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/g003xFT.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/xE0CMIA.jpg)
Above, “hacker” and “standard” layouts; top 4 rows are the same for each.
Below, on the left, bottom row and compatibility kits. On the right, a couple of the layouts supported with the compatibility kit.Show Image(http://imgur.com/h2Eypib.jpg)Show Image(http://imgur.com/LpHGoKh.jpg)
Looks like the Infinity keycap massdrop is up:This one is only for Cherry mx keycaps. Is there going to be another one for Matias/Alps keycaps?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/infinity-dye-sublimated-keycap-set
<snip>
Does anyone know if SP can do side printing? That can be another option...
This one is only for Cherry mx keycaps. Is there going to be another one for Matias/Alps keycaps?Unfortunately no. :(
Why not work with Badwrench and see about his doubleshots instead? You can do dyesubs when SP is ready, but get a useable set out with the keyboard.
Let me quote myself again then:Why not work with Badwrench and see about his doubleshots instead? You can do dyesubs when SP is ready, but get a useable set out with the keyboard.
I would love to give badwrench's buy the massdrop visibility in tandem with Matias infinity boards.This is really interesting. The visibility of massdrop could really make my buy.
This infinity keyboard is becoming a rip off. For me as a uk customer to get keycaps and the keyboard kit it would cost me $211 (£137), a poker 2 is only £75 from banggood.Move the the US. Problem solved. (But seriously, international shipping is a pain in the ass.)
This infinity keyboard is becoming a rip off. For me as a uk customer to get keycaps and the keyboard kit it would cost me $211 (£137), a poker 2 is only £75 from banggood.
He’s not saying the design was ripped off. He’s saying that shipping costs are a rip off. (Edit: apparently Parak is also talking about costs here.)This infinity keyboard is becoming a rip off. For me as a uk customer to get keycaps and the keyboard kit it would cost me $211 (£137), a poker 2 is only £75 from banggood.Poker 2 to Infinity is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison, so I'm not sure how one of them can be designated as a rip off with respect to the other.
We can mold the 6 unit spacebar in PBT, unfortunately we don't have any in stock and we have a minimum order value of $100 for anything that needs to be manufactured - Melissa
FYI, standard plate is now available in the drop (and option of buying a case).
So you almost broke my reluctance to buy this keyboard. As of now, there is only one thing left holding me of: the right 1.75 shift key. It is not that I don't like the size itself, in fact I am wondering why this is not standard but 2.75. The problem is just, that I don't have a keycap that fits. I don't want black caps and I don't like the Infinity set on massdrop either, so these options are out already. The set I originally intended to use would be perfectly fine, but it does not come with a 1.75 shift key so now I am considering my options.
What I tried so far: Using a Caps Lock key instead. It fits, but it has the wrong row profile. This now means, that Return and Shift have almost the same height. I do not know yet, whether this will be an issue or not, but at least I am not completely comfortable with it. I also thought about WASD since they can ship everything, but their keys are ABS so they are out as well, I hate shiny keys. The last option would be to get a modifier set containing a matching shift key. One can get this set relatively cheap from banggood but the shift keys are green and OEM profile, while the keys I intend to use are Cherry profile. The mix in profile then would cause the same issue as taking the Caps Lock key. So I am really not satisfied here. The best option seems to be to take the Caps Lock key but I am wondering whether there are other solutions. What I am looking for: A matching shift key or maybe more in a set in gray, orange or maybe red. It has to be PBT and preferably Cherry profile. Any suggestions on this?
No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
So you almost broke my reluctance to buy this keyboard. As of now, there is only one thing left holding me of: the right 1.75 shift key. [...] The set I originally intended to use would be perfectly fine, but it does not come with a 1.75 shift key so now I am considering my options. [...] the keys I intend to use are Cherry profile.What set do you want to use? You can totally find Cherry doubleshots with a 1.75u shift key, if you ask around. If you need a Cherry dyesub that could get trickier, though I believe they still exist.
No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
Considering buying this just for the key layout (or I could just spend a bit more and get an HHKB)...
No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.
Less steel (I'd say probably closer to half as much) and less work since you don't have someone bending the plates and you don't have the additional steel on the inside of the legs that's welded/epoxied/bent into place. The plate only option should drop the price more, but it doesn't.How it breaks down cost-wise is going to depend a lot on how many get sold. Consider that every extra option/SKU requires an extra bit of sorting somewhere, and adds complexity. If like 50 people get the flat plate version, then MassDrop probably comes out a bit ahead there, but if only 10 people get that version, they’ll probably come out behind (relative to just shipping the same bent plate to everyone).
Finally joined the buy, October will be a bad month for my account with spending almost $300 on keyboards.
I have chosen for the bent plate, because I like the design, maybe considering to paint it (have it painted). I finally made the decision to try out MX browns on it together with the hacker layout. Now I have several months to think about all the layers that I want.
Signature plastics has 1.75x Row4 blank pbt in light gray (GRA) in their overstock right now.
Not sure if it helps as it is a very light gray:Show Image(http://www.keycapsdirect.com/images/colors/pbtGrays.JPG)
You could always dye it to a darker grey though.
I was seriously considering this, but after using a 1x backspace on my unitek as a person who makes plenty of mistakes, I don't know that I could deal with that a whole lot more :pWell, that's why the default backspace/delete is in the HHKB location, i.e. where the \ key normally resides. It'd take a bit of getting used to but you'd probably find it's actually a better spot.
aaaand I'm an idiot who doesn't look carefully. Still, a little strange, but that would certainly be easier to adjust toI was seriously considering this, but after using a 1x backspace on my unitek as a person who makes plenty of mistakes, I don't know that I could deal with that a whole lot more :pWell, that's why the default backspace/delete is in the HHKB location, i.e. where the \ key normally resides. It'd take a bit of getting used to but you'd probably find it's actually a better spot.
No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
Considering buying this just for the key layout (or I could just spend a bit more and get an HHKB)...
It's more like $150, if you include keycaps.No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
Considering buying this just for the key layout (or I could just spend a bit more and get an HHKB)...
Where you can get a HHKB "Pro" a "bit" over $100? Just curious.
It's more like $150, if you include keycaps.No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
Considering buying this just for the key layout (or I could just spend a bit more and get an HHKB)...
Where you can get a HHKB "Pro" a "bit" over $100? Just curious.
Yep, everything is re-mappable in hardware. No exceptions :D
Because of the "hacker" layout advertised by Massdrop?It's more like $150, if you include keycaps.No price cut for plate instead of bent plate case, lame.My thoughts exactly... 25% less steel used = profit margin higher?
Considering buying this just for the key layout (or I could just spend a bit more and get an HHKB)...
Where you can get a HHKB "Pro" a "bit" over $100? Just curious.
Even in that case, if you really need new caps for it, the HHKB Pro is around $260, a difference that is over 100 bucks, i.e. +70% more to get the HHKB instead of the Infinity, that can hardly be called "a bit more". Don't you think?
Besides, the HHKB is non-programmable commercial Topre KB, while the Inifinity is an ALPS/Cherry DIY fully programmable kit. They are entirely different products.
I just did not get why the fellow GH compared them, they are not the same product, nor they were in the same price range.
Because of the "hacker" layout advertised by Massdrop?From what I have seen, $200 is a pretty good deal for a used HHKB. I believe those japan proxy services charge enough to make shipping a HHKB out of the country not really worth it.
Also, you're speaking from 'murrican perspective. The full Infinity kit would be pretty close to $200 or even more, if shipped to Europe; my rough estimate is $150 for the kit + about $30 shipping + about $30 import tax. That's why I decided not to join, and perhaps revive an AEKII and convert it to a compact layout and USB (much more DIY than just soldering switches BTW).
HHKB Pro is about $210 in Japan. I'm not familiar with available proxy services though.
Soldering switches isn't more DIY than Ikea furniture IMHO.Can confirm. Paid 320 for my Type-S through whiterabbitexpress
I'd obviously convert the HHKB to hasu's controller (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=12047.0) for more hacker cred, if I contemplated to get one. Some folks claimed the Japanese proxy to be a steal in some cases IIRC.
I've been looking for sources of keycaps for Matias/Alps switches. It looks possible to harvest some nice dye-sub PBT or doubleshot ABS from vintage Alps-switch keyboards. However, I have been warned that it may be difficult to find keycaps for the stabilized modifier keys.I've read your threads on DT and GH concerning this. I've seen Jacobulus bringing up this issue, but if I understand correctly this issue is for 3 keys only, two 2.25u and the spacebar.
Blank keys for Alps in another profile than DSA that would interest me alot.If blank black is okay, I recommend buying an Apple Extended Keyboard II and some dye.
I'm thinking about getting this keyboard for the long run, mainly because I have the desire to add simple things like mac macros to my keyboard
I don't like the top right corner keys much, a backspace might have been better, but I'm thinking of replacing them with the "<"/">" arrow keys, and mapping "<" to backspace ">" to delete, which makes sense
I only use one of the 4 right bottom modifier keys on normal keyboards, so on this keyboard I might do something useful with them too
I will probably map the arrow keys to a modifier + P L :; "' - seems like an alternate WASD for the arrows, all in all, I'm not too excited about the key alternatives, more of the programming possibilities and the DIY aspect appeals to me
Why am I writing this? To ask you guys whether you enjoy your Infinity's - Should I just go ahead? (I'm not going to use the blank keys, but buy the blank keys for spares and use the SP ABS Dolch set instead - wherever possible)
It is possible to order the kit without switches, and the caps are additional, thus, if you do not have use for them just do not buy them. You will have to option to source them anywhere else, even at your own stock.
TBH I'm not a fan of the HHKB layout (the 1x keys above \ are a huge no-no for me), but I got an infinity both for the novelty of the bent metal plate and I wanted a completely programmable 60% cherry clear board. The programming method that HaaTa has come up with (the KLL) is actually really powerful.
I think I might have to put another one together tho, the lack of a proper backspace key is killin me.
I went with the first drop and got the Hacker layout with Matias Click switches. Yesterday, I signed up for the second drop. I was going to go full bore with a Tek case and PBT caps, but the case was too expensive for me just now and I've discovered that I don't like DSA profile. So, I'm going bare bones, but this time I'm opting for the Standard layout to improve chances of finding keycaps. At the time, I thought I wanted to use the Matias Quiet switches that I bought separately, but today I pulled out my V60s -- one with Matias Click and the other with Matias Quiet -- and did some testing. Turns out I type faster and more accurately on Matias Click. Looking forward to putting the boards together.
Seems like a decent deal to me. I'm purchasing a load of Gataron switches from the GB and the overall cost of the Infinity would be $126.45 verses $136.37 for Gataron switches from Massdrop or $146.37 for cherry.
I just wish it had the options for LEDs.
Seems like a decent deal to me. I'm purchasing a load of Gataron switches from the GB and the overall cost of the Infinity would be $126.45 verses $136.37 for Gataron switches from Massdrop or $146.37 for cherry.
I just wish it had the options for LEDs.
You can get it with no switches and source them from the GH GB as well, if what you want are Gaterons.
Seems like a decent deal to me. I'm purchasing a load of Gataron switches from the GB and the overall cost of the Infinity would be $126.45 verses $136.37 for Gataron switches from Massdrop or $146.37 for cherry.
I just wish it had the options for LEDs.
You can get it with no switches and source them from the GH GB as well, if what you want are Gaterons.
Those were the prices I was comparing. $126.45 for Gatarons from the GB (-$30 for no switches from Massdrop + $10.xx for switches from GB), $136.37 for Gatarons from Massdrop, or $146.37 for cherry from Massdrop.
$126.45 with PBT caps is a very appealing price tag.
So at the cheapest I'm looking at a $125 board(Gatorade Brown + caps, and I don't have a better place to get either). On top of that I get $36 shipping and $40~ish import taxes(yay for making MSRP twice your price and then putting it in declared value), which makes 201 bucks...
Yeah, I think I'm just gonna get a Poker II with an actual case for $130 shipped. Or a Noppoo 75 if I feel like soldering on a custom controller. Sure, I'd like something with a HHKB Backspace and pipe, but I can live with a standard layout as long as it's ANSI.
But, what do mean by a Poker with an actual case? You can get the Infinity with an actual case and a flat plate
at the cheapest
So at the cheapest I'm looking at a $125 board(Gatorade Brown + caps, and I don't have a better place to get either). On top of that I get $36 shipping and $40~ish import taxes(yay for making MSRP twice your price and then putting it in declared value), which makes 201 bucks...
Yeah, I think I'm just gonna get a Poker II with an actual case for $130 shipped. Or a Noppoo 75 if I feel like soldering on a custom controller. Sure, I'd like something with a HHKB Backspace and pipe, but I can live with a standard layout as long as it's ANSI.
Does the Hyperfuse set for example include a backspace labeled button to replace \ btw?The 1.5 backspace may be added to the set, eventually. There is no confirmation yet.
(it kinda looks like it might eventually...)
Infinity does not have LED support.
- I'm not a big backlighting fan, but just to be sure the pcb doesn't feature led mounts, right?
Infinity plate does not have the cut outs for switch opening.
- Would the infinity allow opening of the switches while installed by any chance?
Yes.
If for example one switch turn out to be defect after building it, would i have to desolder all the switches in order to access a single switch?
Same here.
I really like the infinity for full programability and would probably go for no switches and join the group buy for gateron blacks and maybe clear covers...
Infinity plate does not have the cut outs for switch opening.
- Would the infinity allow opening of the switches while installed by any chance?
Yes.
If for example one switch turn out to be defect after building it, would i have to desolder all the switches in order to access a single switch?
Infinity plate does not have the cut outs for switch opening.
- Would the infinity allow opening of the switches while installed by any chance?
It actually does via the alps support (wider on the sides). So switch opening is possible.
Yes.
If for example one switch turn out to be defect after building it, would i have to desolder all the switches in order to access a single switch?
Not sure if I'm missing the point, but if a single switch is defective, you'd just desolder that one switch..
However, to replace one switch when the PCB is soldered, all the switches should be de-soldered.
However, to replace one switch when the PCB is soldered, all the switches should be de-soldered.
False, you can easily desolder one switch and pop it out without touching any of the others. There is absolutely zero reason to desolder all the other switches if you're having issues with just one. All you have to do is desolder the contacts and push in on the two locking tabs and the switch will pop out without having to mess with any of the other switches.
Now I can't decide between Tex or Vortex, I like flatness, yet my keycaps will probably be DSA from now on, I'm not sure about the complete flatness that the Tex will provide
I also like the minimalism of the 60%'s, so Tex seems better on that aspect
Any suggestions?
Now I can't decide between Tex or Vortex, I like flatness, yet my keycaps will probably be DSA from now on, I'm not sure about the complete flatness that the Tex will provide
I also like the minimalism of the 60%'s, so Tex seems better on that aspect
Any suggestions?
I have a Tex case and DSA caps on my Poker and I really like the "flatness" of this setup. The Tex case should come with the large rubber bumpon feet if you need a bit of an angle. Certainly not as much as the Vortex case though.
As for the Infinity....I'm on the fence. I'm not sure if I like the idea of a non-standard backspace. I do want to build a board, I have the switches, I have multiple cases...but I keep looking at that top row and thinking that it would drive me crazy.
Now I can't decide between Tex or Vortex, I like flatness, yet my keycaps will probably be DSA from now on, I'm not sure about the complete flatness that the Tex will provide
I also like the minimalism of the 60%'s, so Tex seems better on that aspect
Any suggestions?
I have a Tex case and DSA caps on my Poker and I really like the "flatness" of this setup. The Tex case should come with the large rubber bumpon feet if you need a bit of an angle. Certainly not as much as the Vortex case though.
As for the Infinity....I'm on the fence. I'm not sure if I like the idea of a non-standard backspace. I do want to build a board, I have the switches, I have multiple cases...but I keep looking at that top row and thinking that it would drive me crazy.
Now I can't decide between Tex or Vortex, I like flatness, yet my keycaps will probably be DSA from now on, I'm not sure about the complete flatness that the Tex will provide
I also like the minimalism of the 60%'s, so Tex seems better on that aspect
Any suggestions?
I have a Tex case and DSA caps on my Poker and I really like the "flatness" of this setup. The Tex case should come with the large rubber bumpon feet if you need a bit of an angle. Certainly not as much as the Vortex case though.
As for the Infinity....I'm on the fence. I'm not sure if I like the idea of a non-standard backspace. I do want to build a board, I have the switches, I have multiple cases...but I keep looking at that top row and thinking that it would drive me crazy.
Does anyone know what these 4 pins are for? I bought a flat plate version of the kit so I could put it in a case that I already had, but the pins poke through and are longer than the case is thick. Is it safe to cut/trim them?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rGKguAo.jpg)
Yeah, it's safe to clip them.
The header is there for bootloader flashing. They are useful if you ever brick your keyboard for whatever reason or for some reason want to change the bootloader. I'd say 99% of people will never use them.
There is one nice dev feature though, if you put a jumper between the middle two pins, you can do a remote reflash without pressing the button using the virtual serial port.
Typical 0.1 inch (2.54 mm) pitch. The connector itself isn't really standard.
Any SWD flasher should work, though you have to be careful about the chip, it's not 5 V tolerant (3.3V). The Vcc pin is 5 V however to prevent you from burning out the chip if you have the usb cable and flasher plugged in at the same time.
Are there build instructions?
Infinity plate does not have the cut outs for switch opening.
- Would the infinity allow opening of the switches while installed by any chance?
It actually does via the alps support (wider on the sides). So switch opening is possible.
Yes.
If for example one switch turn out to be defect after building it, would i have to desolder all the switches in order to access a single switch?
Not sure if I'm missing the point, but if a single switch is defective, you'd just desolder that one switch..
However, to replace one switch when the PCB is soldered, all the switches should be de-soldered.
False, you can easily desolder one switch and pop it out without touching any of the others. There is absolutely zero reason to desolder all the other switches if you're having issues with just one. All you have to do is desolder the contacts and push in on the two locking tabs and the switch will pop out without having to mess with any of the other switches.
I just did this with the infinity and it is doable, I was wrong.
Apart from the exposed pins, how does it fit in the regular/mainstream 60% cases?
Apart from the exposed pins, how does it fit in the regular/mainstream 60% cases?
I will try mine with an standard Poker case tonight. I'll keep you posted on that.
Apart from the exposed pins, how does it fit in the regular/mainstream 60% cases?
I will try mine with an standard Poker case tonight. I'll keep you posted on that.
Thanks a lot, some pictures would be great too, especially the plate and case color blending-wise :)
Of course sir.
Not directly, this isn't a limitation of the configurator really. USB doesn't have mappings for these keys. It's left to the os to do the conversion.
In the long term I plan on writing an OS driver to output unicode directly, but this will take me a while (without help at least).
I'm probably a teeny tiny minority, but how many people besides me would be interested in a similar project that uses Cherry ML switches and a 6 row layout for Function keys?I think you’ll have to DIY this one. Sounds like a fun project though!
I guess if I had the option, I would prefer a black anodized plate, for some reason I have the impression that stainless steel corrodes in 3-4 years-top, but never experienced corrosion problems with anodised metals
(noob question) the keycaps are not going to actually hit the plate even bottomed out?!
if its stainless steel this can usually at least start to pick up rust on the surface and therefore look corroded, unless it's protected by some kind of clear finish.
Also I don't really like the looks of the blank plate and think that changing or refinishing it could also be quite a big improvement for the appearance.First, it’s possible to get a flat plate instead of bent metal plate/case, if you want to put it in a milled wood/metal/plastic or injection molded plastic case.
Also I don't really like the looks of the blank plate and think that changing or refinishing it could also be quite a big improvement for the appearance.First, it’s possible to get a flat plate instead of bent metal plate/case, if you want to put it in a milled wood/metal/plastic or injection molded plastic case.
Second, the look is not something everyone likes. If you don’t like it, don’t buy it. There are many other possible options for keyboards that you might prefer.
I personally don't mind the bent plate too much as I think its cool. It kind of cool how you can show anyone who walks by that it is a DIY keyboard and what goes into it. The sound and feel is not bad while typing on it, and I am not too worried about the durability in the long run.
ideus, yes they corrode in a very short amount of time if you're not using them actively, keyboard plates absorb a lot of humidity from hands, yet they never get rubbed/cleaned/touched, so it's very likely they will corrode at one point, my previous laptop had a stainless steel keyboard top plate, I wasn't using the keyboard of the laptop, the room isn't humid, there were no liquids near the plate, yet it corroded in 2 years, small corrosion spots start forming after a while, they grow in time
I guess I'm going to buy a single infinity and see how it goes, I guess we can always replace the plate when it corrodes
I have a lot of bad experiences modifying/painting stuff, so I would rather let it corrode (the plate gets a lot of side-action, so side-chipping is very likely with paints etc, the switches lean to the plate although they are not moving, there is still stress)
I'm also guessing it's unlikely that we can convince the producers to produce coated/alternative plates at this point in time, I'm guessing it might happen for the future iteration
ideus, yes they corrode in a very short amount of time if you're not using them actively, keyboard plates absorb a lot of humidity from hands, yet they never get rubbed/cleaned/touched, so it's very likely they will corrode at one point, my previous laptop had a stainless steel keyboard top plate, I wasn't using the keyboard of the laptop, the room isn't humid, there were no liquids near the plate, yet it corroded in 2 years, small corrosion spots start forming after a while, they grow in time
On the other hand, this will be my 3rd keyboard in ~1-2 months, so with this pace, I shouldn't worry about longevity much :)
Stainless steel surface is not the best anchor substrate for any paint. Most paints will peel off, but maybe powder-coating, that should be dry in an oven at high temperatures that cannot be reproduced at home, Just a heads up.
That is a great method, you got me back to 2 infinity'sStainless steel surface is not the best anchor substrate for any paint. Most paints will peel off, but maybe powder-coating, that should be dry in an oven at high temperatures that cannot be reproduced at home, Just a heads up.
I sand mine with 80-grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then I apply 3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing it to dry between coats, and let cure 48 hours before installing.
Stainless steel surface is not the best anchor substrate for any paint. Most paints will peel off, but maybe powder-coating, that should be dry in an oven at high temperatures that cannot be reproduced at home, Just a heads up.
I sand mine with 80-grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then I apply 3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing it to dry between coats, and let cure 48 hours before installing.
Stainless steel surface is not the best anchor substrate for any paint. Most paints will peel off, but maybe powder-coating, that should be dry in an oven at high temperatures that cannot be reproduced at home, Just a heads up.
I sand mine with 80-grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then I apply 3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing it to dry between coats, and let cure 48 hours before installing.
Great idea: Sanding increases the anchor points for the painting. I should fix my thinking from repetitive manufacturing to handmade craftsmanship. :)) What is the base material of the paint you used? Some pictures?
I have many keyboard plates made of 304 stainless, and I have yet to have one corrode at all. Of course, I live in a relatively dry climate, but I still can't imagine one of these corroding.
...keyboard plates absorb a lot of humidity from hands, yet they never get rubbed/cleaned/touched, so its very likely they will corrode at one point, my previous laptop had a stainless steel keyboard top plate, I wasn't using the keyboard of the laptop, the room isn't humid, there were no liquids near the plate, yet it corroded in 2 years, small corrosion spots start forming after a while, they grow in time
I sand mine with 80-grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then I apply 3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing it to dry between coats, and let cure 48 hours before installing.
I typically use Kryton brand spray paint.
Here is a stainless Poker plate I painted purple for dustinhxc:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tKmvuKf.jpg)
[Image credit: duxtinhxc]
I guess I'm going to buy a single infinity and see how it goes, I guess we can always replace the plate when it corrodes
THX a lot again to everyone for clearing all this up! =)
I didn't intend to start such a big discussion, but I think It's pretty awesome we got everything clarified, so thx again to everyone supplying all the infos on this! :thumb:
Not being an expert i can't tell the exact properties of stainless 304, but based on the statement of Overkill and JDs experience I very much believe now that it's high grade enough
to be no issue whatsoever in most situations, so sorry for anyone who might be concerned now because you most likely won't have to worry! =)MoreI have many keyboard plates made of 304 stainless, and I have yet to have one corrode at all. Of course, I live in a relatively dry climate, but I still can't imagine one of these corroding.
It's was just the fact that I have seen it at least once (on probably not the highest grade stainless steal) as well
and it's most likely to happen on areas which don't get any physical wear, that would keep 'polishing' the surface constantly like KHAANNN mentioned.More...keyboard plates absorb a lot of humidity from hands, yet they never get rubbed/cleaned/touched, so its very likely they will corrode at one point, my previous laptop had a stainless steel keyboard top plate, I wasn't using the keyboard of the laptop, the room isn't humid, there were no liquids near the plate, yet it corroded in 2 years, small corrosion spots start forming after a while, they grow in time
On the other hand it's still great to know it's possible to diy paint the plate for people who just want to modify it for the looks,
which should also be pretty durable as well since the plate doesn't get any physical wear usually.
So big thx to JD for the tips and experience on this! =)
Really love the poker plate btw! <3MoreI sand mine with 80-grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then I apply 3 thin coats of spray paint, allowing it to dry between coats, and let cure 48 hours before installing.I typically use Kryton brand spray paint.
Here is a stainless Poker plate I painted purple for dustinhxc:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tKmvuKf.jpg)
[Image credit: duxtinhxc]
Also finally I want to mention that if anyone ever where to experience slide surface corrosion on the stainless steal plate its usually pretty easy to remove as it will only affect the surface.
Usually slight sanding with even fine grid sandpaper or some sort of soft metal brush/sponge should be enough to remove corrosion from the surface and make it shiny again.
The only issue is that you might have to remove the plate as it maybe hard to reach all corners with switches mounted but there is no reason to ever replace it.MoreI guess I'm going to buy a single infinity and see how it goes, I guess we can always replace the plate when it corrodes
If you decide to paint it and the paint really wears it would pretty much be the same process of desoldering switches, sanding and repainting it.
I really doubt a well done paint job will come of that easy tho if you prepare the surface well like JD mentioned.
So as mentioned, definitely roughen up the metal, to increase the surface area and give the spray paint more 'bite'.
If possible also use something like aceton or cleaning alcohol to remove any grease that might be left from fingerprints for example and could prevent paint from sticking.
Then spray in thin layers (don't worry about 100% coverage on the first layer) because to worst that can happen is paint to 'run' or drop.
Wait for the appropriate amount of time in between layers (usually mentioned on the paint) and even if it mentions dry after 24h, leave it dry for 48h min before assembling.
(even tho the paint may feel dry on the surface and will be safe to touch it will still be less resistant to scratches that might happen during assembly.)
I typically use Kryton brand spray paint.
Here is a stainless Poker plate I painted purple for dustinhxc:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tKmvuKf.jpg)
[Image credit: duxtinhxc]
You have inspired me too, and that purple just goes extremely well with that keyboard
This is probably a bigger/real issue with this keyboard: https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/commit/a9c5898ba5fcb06f11ff97c4fe1fbafb836ebd87
This and the Mac OSX / sleep issue, but it seems both of the issues will be solved pretty soon, it's also a huge plus that you're not locked in to a simple solution to the debounce issues
I haven't experienced repetitive keypresses with other keyboards, and I sincerely hope I never do, it would probably drive me crazy++
I crossed my fingers and thought, "Hall Effect", maybe?
MAYBE SOME DAY :D
I have a cool design in mind, but the problem really is actually getting the switches at this point. It really depends on how much time I need to spend making Cherry keyboards vs. designing completely new things.
Funny thing, my problems aren't really funds. It's mostly how much time I can spend doing it.
My real job is too fun to quit and do keyboards full time (and pays better too).
At this point, I really just need coding help (C coders, preferably embedded; though there is some Python stuff to do). The less time I have to spend fixing debounce issues (and tracking down Mac OSX sleep quirks), the more time I can spend on making entirely new keyboards.
Funny thing, my problems aren't really funds. It's mostly how much time I can spend doing it.
My real job is too fun to quit and do keyboards full time (and pays better too).
At this point, I really just need coding help (C coders, preferably embedded; though there is some Python stuff to do). The less time I have to spend fixing debounce issues (and tracking down Mac OSX sleep quirks), the more time I can spend on making entirely new keyboards.
After closing up my aluminium plate keyboard after the switch modifications, I'm pretty excited for the steel plate, that aluminium plate turned out to be the major source of the pings, I should have guessed tho
Experiencing an identity crisis, thinking of going back to silenced red's, trying modded clears, giving another chance to green's ...Matias quiet linear are quieter and smoother than lubed silenced MX red; Matias quiet tactile are more tactile than any spring-swapped MX clear; Matias clicky are more tactile and have a more satisfying click sound than any MX green. ;)
I would love to give each matias a try, however the keycap unavailability is an issue in this case, I don't have the ability to use blank keycaps, I take a glimpse at the keyscheme every now and thenExperiencing an identity crisis, thinking of going back to silenced red's, trying modded clears, giving another chance to green's ...Matias quiet linear are quieter and smoother than lubed silenced MX red; Matias quiet tactile are more tactile than any spring-swapped MX clear; Matias clicky are more tactile and have a more satisfying click sound than any MX green. ;)
Well the delivery of the new batch is a whooping 2+ months away, but what do you guys think about using a single blue switch for the backspace and a clear for esc?
I'm so excited, I wish it was at least a month away
(I guess I can test the varying switch idea on a normal keyboard too, in the meantime, blue for both the esc and the backspace makes more sense, on a linear keyboard that is)
Well the delivery of the new batch is a whooping 2+ months away, but what do you guys think about using a single blue switch for the backspace and a clear for esc?
I'm so excited, I wish it was at least a month away
(I guess I can test the varying switch idea on a normal keyboard too, in the meantime, blue for both the esc and the backspace makes more sense, on a linear keyboard that is)
If you want a stiffer ESC, black makes more sense for a board full of reds. But why do you want a clicky backspace on an otherwise linear board? Then everyone will know for sure when you made a mistake.
Funny thing, my problems aren't really funds. It's mostly how much time I can spend doing it.
My real job is too fun to quit and do keyboards full time (and pays better too).
At this point, I really just need coding help (C coders, preferably embedded; though there is some Python stuff to do). The less time I have to spend fixing debounce issues (and tracking down Mac OSX sleep quirks), the more time I can spend on making entirely new keyboards.
I would love to give each matias a try, however the keycap unavailability is an issue in this case, I don't have the ability to use blank keycaps, I take a glimpse at the keyscheme every now and then
I will consider them too, thanks for the input, you just made my decision harder :)
Hey C and Python coder here, I'd love to help out :D I'm a novice coder but I have access to alot of free time at my job where I mostly do C# I ordered the board on massdrop last night and I've been following your controller git, hopefully I'll find something to contribute when I get my hands on it.
Tested the idea for a bit on a sample switcher, it's an idea that initially seems cool, it would also aid in adapting to the non-standard backspace/delete, yet it would probably turn irritating in a short amount of time, I've also tested browns side by side, with reds and a single blue, all trampoline modded, all reds / homogeneity seemed like the best option, I might still initially test the idea and re-solder into red's when I got the board tho (blues tend to get irritating compared to the silence of red's, that's why it might get irritating, on the other hand it's a backspace key, maybe it should be a bit irritating :)Go for it man, might be a little while before it's back again!
Still haven't decided whether I should also give matias's a chance with this batch, I know I will adapt to the blanks in 1-2 days, but I just like printed caps :(
10 hours left
Tested the idea for a bit on a sample switcher, it's an idea that initially seems cool, it would also aid in adapting to the non-standard backspace/delete, yet it would probably turn irritating in a short amount of time, I've also tested browns side by side, with reds and a single blue, all trampoline modded, all reds / homogeneity seemed like the best option, I might still initially test the idea and re-solder into red's when I got the board tho (blues tend to get irritating compared to the silence of red's, that's why it might get irritating, on the other hand it's a backspace key, maybe it should be a bit irritating :)
Still haven't decided whether I should also give matias's a chance with this batch, I know I will adapt to the blanks in 1-2 days, but I just like printed caps :(
10 hours left
Matias switches are among my favorites. I tend to favor the Matias Click over the Matias Quiet. The Click switches give an excellent combination of aural and tactile feedback that synergize to enhance my typing speed and accuracy.Tested the idea for a bit on a sample switcher, it's an idea that initially seems cool, it would also aid in adapting to the non-standard backspace/delete, yet it would probably turn irritating in a short amount of time, I've also tested browns side by side, with reds and a single blue, all trampoline modded, all reds / homogeneity seemed like the best option, I might still initially test the idea and re-solder into red's when I got the board tho (blues tend to get irritating compared to the silence of red's, that's why it might get irritating, on the other hand it's a backspace key, maybe it should be a bit irritating :)
Still haven't decided whether I should also give matias's a chance with this batch, I know I will adapt to the blanks in 1-2 days, but I just like printed caps :(
10 hours left
Go for the ALPS. We'll start a club.
I really do think eventually the ALPS keysets will become more commonplace.
Or, buy this board without caps, and buy a stock Mini Quiet Pro (http://matias.ca/miniquietpro/pc/) for $130 and use those caps. $130 isn't too much more than a lot of custom keycap sets.
Those are some nice ideas, but I decided to skip on Matias on this run, this might be a good idea for the future too: http://matias.ca/60/pc/
However, I rejoined for a second set with MX Blues / standard layout, gonna give clicks a second chance, also thinking of going for an Eve/Dolch - Clicky/Silent combo based on mood / future preferences
These all assume that the rightmost 3 modifiers + the middle/small shift keys make up nice arrow keys, if they don't, this whole thing might be a bust for me :)
(My arrow pose will certainly need some flexing)
Does anyone have any experience with big drops like this one with lots of options? I don't know what kind of operation Massdrop is running, but I can't help but worry that a lot of folks are going to end up with the wrong plates/switches or something like that, just because there are so many different configurations and this has been a relatively popular drop.
Does anyone have any experience with big drops like this one with lots of options? I don't know what kind of operation Massdrop is running, but I can't help but worry that a lot of folks are going to end up with the wrong plates/switches or something like that, just because there are so many different configurations and this has been a relatively popular drop.
Does anyone have any experience with big drops like this one with lots of options? I don't know what kind of operation Massdrop is running, but I can't help but worry that a lot of folks are going to end up with the wrong plates/switches or something like that, just because there are so many different configurations and this has been a relatively popular drop.MassDrop had some issues with sourcing/sorting/distribution like 2 years ago, and e.g. some Ergodox drops had a couple months extra delay in fulfillment as a result, but they’ve gotten a lot better as they figured **** out and scaled up. Also, in my experience and the experience of people I’ve talked to they're always happy to re-send missing parts, in cases something went wrong.
I just realized, I selected the bent plate option for the matias linear switches, does this mean I wouldn't be able to eventually transfer it to an aftermarket case? I hope I can contact support and switch to the flat plate option. Also, the "standard" layout will work fine with the matias linears, right? I opted for the blank dsa caps to go along with it.
Thanks NJ! I'll shoot an email over to Massdrop, I can't imagine that being a tough thing to switch. I chose the "standard" layout for that very reason. I was mostly concerned about the spacebar. Thanks for such a quick reply!I just realized, I selected the bent plate option for the matias linear switches, does this mean I wouldn't be able to eventually transfer it to an aftermarket case? I hope I can contact support and switch to the flat plate option. Also, the "standard" layout will work fine with the matias linears, right? I opted for the blank dsa caps to go along with it.
AFAIK they will match the caps and the plate to the layout you choose, so any switch will work with any layout.
Regarding the bent plate, you will not be able to fit it into an aftermarket case later, as-is. It may be possible with some rather involved metalworking to remove the "legs" and drill out some openings to get in there with a screwdriver. But yes, if you can get Massdrop to change your order that would be a better way to go.
EDIT: I said "any switch will work with any layout" but that's only true at the time of order. In other words, you'll likely not find an aftermarket keycap set with ALPS stems in an Infinity hacker layout, unless these boards become popular enough to sustain some kind of keycap set group buy.
Would be great if something like this happened at the infinity drop too: http://imgur.com/9FEHHft
I'm really having a hard time with not getting a chinese FC660M in the meantime, mainly the right cable setup is holding me back, left cable ftw
Would be great if something like this happened at the infinity drop too: http://imgur.com/9FEHHft
I'm really having a hard time with not getting a chinese FC660M in the meantime, mainly the right cable setup is holding me back, left cable ftw
Are you referring to this drop (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m)?
I just can't get behind the FC660M. It's those two keys on the top right. They drive me nuts.
I don't like massdrop that much honestly, although the early v60/80 shipments were nice, I would just buy the fc660m from aliexpress or ebay and get it instantly
Those two buttons are indeed beautiful, I generally use page up/down for text editor combos, they seem to be perfect for that job too
On different-note, I really really hope the infinity turns out to be ping-free, I really really want to just start enjoying the keyboards instead of obsessing over issues
Definitely don't hear anything like in this video.
By the way, are the cherry infinity switches PCB mounts? I needed to ask as I see the holes and I'm considering buying some switches to pre-mod before the kb arrives, yet I'm guessing they are plate mounts with the holes unused or for matias's etc
By the way, are the cherry infinity switches PCB mounts? I needed to ask as I see the holes and I'm considering buying some switches to pre-mod before the kb arrives, yet I'm guessing they are plate mounts with the holes unused or for matias's etc
The PCB supports PCB mount switches. If you choose to use a plate, you can use either plate mount or PCB mount switches.
I mean, if {PCB == Plate mount + 2 plastic feet} - I would definitely try to get PCB mounted switches although I'm going to utilize the plate too
I mean, if {PCB == Plate mount + 2 plastic feet} - I would definitely try to get PCB mounted switches although I'm going to utilize the plate too
Yep.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dSuNdXW.jpg)
Plate mount ^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SwrsOOT.jpg)
PCB mount ^
Those two little plastic bits are the only difference.
So, getting pcb mount switches are a lot more difficult to snap in once the switches are in the plate.
If 1 switch is 1x switch insertion force, 60 switches is 60x insertion force. It's a lot easier to put in a few switches, then insert the switches into the plate and the pcb at the same time.
But yeah, they'll work, but you might not be able to push down the pcb all the way...
Gateron switches have higher insertion force than Cherry MX I find.
I had a chance to convert a pcb switch to a plate one recently, until I tried to mount it, I didn't even realise that all my mx blacks were pcb mounts, it was strangely satisfying to first rip the pcb mounts and then dremel the remaining parts
I had a chance to convert a pcb switch to a plate one recently, until I tried to mount it, I didn't even realise that all my mx blacks were pcb mounts, it was strangely satisfying to first rip the pcb mounts and then dremel the remaining parts
Typically you just take a pair of small sharp cutters and snip those plastic legs off flush.
What you describe makes it sound difficult. :P
Does someone know if the configurator is working yet?
Does someone know if the configurator is working yet?
Very soon I hope to make an announcement about this :D
Just checked the infinity's on /r/mk - this one stood out: http://i.imgur.com/dAgRjfn.jpgDo you not care for the black anodized TEX plate? They look very similar to me, but you wouldn't have to paint it.
It would probably look much better with a black painted plate, but on the other hand, my plates always get lubed, so there's the lube stains to add to the equation, naked steel would probably hide the lube waves well
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/search?q=infinity&restrict_sr=on
The aluminium slim vortex cased one is a beauty: http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vos2q/photos_infinity_keyboard_in_hands/
EDIT: I see now that this is the case to buy: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1001 - I guess I'm going to try my chances at painting instead, although this seems to be the perfect case for the infinity plate, I guess I enjoy black items more. I should start looking for a steel plate/item to paint and test
The stainless steel plate color is the issue :) Otherwise I really like the black tex case, in fact I ordered 2 of them, as, at that time I was intending to build 2 infinities with different switches for different moods
The stainless steel plate doesn't look too good in the black case, as seen from the first picture, I'm not sure whether it really looks bad or it's the potato picture that enhances the color incompatibility that much
Anyway, I went ahead and ordered matte black spray paint and matte varnishes to test them on steel surfaces, I previously perfected my spray painting method on flexible plastic surfaces, I have a feeling stainless steel will be more forgiving
----
After refreshing my memory, I re-checked ideus's infinity: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64198.msg1666451#msg1666451 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64198.msg1666451#msg1666451) - same keycaps/case, yet in his picture's (or in these picture's) the plate actually looks pretty good, so I guess I will have to re-asses the situation when I actually have access to the components (in 2 months maybe?)
The stainless steel plate color is the issue :) Otherwise I really like the black tex case, in fact I ordered 2 of them, as, at that time I was intending to build 2 infinities with different switches for different moodsYou need need need (!) a good coat of metal primer before you paint the plate. And follow all the instructions carefully (pre-cleaning the metal, etc.). Primer will bond to the metal and help prevent chipping.
The stainless steel plate doesn't look too good in the black case, as seen from the first picture, I'm not sure whether it really looks bad or it's the potato picture that enhances the color incompatibility that much
Anyway, I went ahead and ordered matte black spray paint and matte varnishes to test them on steel surfaces, I previously perfected my spray painting method on flexible plastic surfaces, I have a feeling stainless steel will be more forgiving
----
After refreshing my memory, I re-checked ideus's infinity: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64198.msg1666451#msg1666451 - same keycaps/case, yet in his picture's (or in these picture's) the plate actually looks pretty good, so I guess I will have to re-asses the situation when I actually have access to the components (in 2 months maybe?)
Is the configurator working yet?
Pretty minor.
Extra debug pins on the pcb (could be used to add a bluetooth mod).
Moved a few diodes (potential issue with some 60% cases).
Yeah, we found out about the issue with right when they started getting to people.
Basically, the problem was, these cases are different than all the other 60% poker cases and we didn't anticipate this (this case was added near the end of the drop).
Rev 2 of the Infinity 60% has the diode issue fixed (which should deal with the usb problem as well).
The original buyer had the option of contacting support and getting one of the newer rev 2 pcbs (I think there were only 10 people who bought this case, everyone else shouldn't have any issues). You might be able to contact the original buyer and have them request a new pcb from Massdrop support (rev 2 should be shipping in the next couple weeks).
Personally, I can't really handle any of these issues.
You could also try soldering different diodes and repairing the USB connector, but that's up to your own soldering skills.
Can someone help me out a bit? I just got mine from a another user and the dfu utility displays nothing when I try to list devices :-[
It's so hard to wait :(:eek: by any chance do you have another adapter kit?
HaaTa plx leak the manufacturing status
(Attachment Link)
My keycap sets are ready, switches are ready, anxiously waiting the infinity's
Can someone help me out a bit? I just got mine from a another user and the dfu utility displays nothing when I try to list devices :-[
Similarly, I just got my infinity, going to set up the development environment today, I might help you, however I'm on Mac, so my experiences might not apply to you
Without trying anything yet, after reading the TMK firmware docs, you might need to push the bottom button for the device to appear in that list, are you doing that? (I'm also not sure whether you really need to push the button, or at what stage you need to push it, but it's a good idea to just push it and see what happens, Windows is also extremely irritating, you might need to wait for the driver utils to search for drivers for 30 minutes or so)
Nop, it's already opensourced :p`
https://github.com/kiibohd/KiiConf (https://github.com/kiibohd/KiiConf)
Haha, nope. That means something went wrong (it's on purpose :D ).
Some recent updates were pushed today, I'll try to fix them asap.
The big change with this configurator is that in the zip file there are enough log files to debug the issues.
* Since it's DIY-friendly it would be easily possible to change switches at a later point, so there is no need to buy a whole new keyboard as you would have to with Poker. I'm much interested in such sustainability, I don't want to have 5 Pokers with 5 different switch-styles in 5 years while finding my preferred switches.Nothing as DIY friendly as that. Reworking a whole keyboard is not something I'd describe as "friendly" in any way, especially if you don't have a reworking / desoldering station. (Not the same as a soldering station.)
However I'm not sure if it's actually possible to buy only switches somewhere in Germany/Europe(?), so it might be only a theoretical advantage.Cherry is based in Germany. Their manufacturing capacity is in Germany. I'd be super surprised. Check with electronics parts retailers.
* Since the programming capabilities are only limited by RAM you wouldn't need to buy Poker 3, Poker 4, Poker 5 and so on to gain new programming features. In case the RAM limits will ever be reached: would it be possible to upgrade RAM with Infinity keyboard, or would you have to buy a new PCB?RAM on a microcontroller is integrated in the microcontroller chip, and thus not expansible at all. (A microcontroller can be programmed to use some of its pins as a RAM bus, but this is beyond the scope of "expanding memory" and becomes an exercise in "building a computer architecture" - fun in its own right, but I doubt it's what you're looking for.)
Haha, nope. That means something went wrong (it's on purpose :D ).
Some recent updates were pushed today, I'll try to fix them asap.
The big change with this configurator is that in the zip file there are enough log files to debug the issues.
Cherry is based in Germany. Their manufacturing capacity is in Germany. I'd be super surprised. Check with electronics parts retailers.
Also, WASD ships worldwide, but why pay potentially customs on something that's made in Germany...
I guess they fail to see the market, as a private customer you only get datasheets from the switches - seems like it is needed to be a company and/or have to order at least 1000 switches. Farnell, RS etc. also don't sell to private customers in germany, and the usual german electronic parts sellers (Reichelt, Conrad) don't sell Cherry switches.
Hi Sigmoid,
thanks for your answers.Cherry is based in Germany. Their manufacturing capacity is in Germany. I'd be super surprised. Check with electronics parts retailers.
Also, WASD ships worldwide, but why pay potentially customs on something that's made in Germany...
I guess they fail to see the market, as a private customer you only get datasheets from the switches - seems like it is needed to be a company and/or have to order at least 1000 switches. Farnell, RS etc. also don't sell to private customers in germany, and the usual german electronic parts sellers (Reichelt, Conrad) don't sell Cherry switches. So... thanks for the wasdkeyboards.com link, it was totally unclear to me if it's ever possible to get spare parts. Importing from US is still a lot of hassle, though - and of course it's much more painful when it is even a german product :)
I guess they fail to see the market, as a private customer you only get datasheets from the switches - seems like it is needed to be a company and/or have to order at least 1000 switches. Farnell, RS etc. also don't sell to private customers in germany, and the usual german electronic parts sellers (Reichelt, Conrad) don't sell Cherry switches.You can get Cherry MX switches from 7bit on deskthority. He is in EU and I bet he will ship to Germany and he has better prices than e.g. mouser below.
There is at least one outstanding issue though.Pray tell...
Hi everybody,Now I really cant say no.
Another update, Infinity 60% is back up on MassDrop. They are no longer offering the bent metal case but your choice of white, clear, or black plastic injection molded case (same style as a poker case). MassDrop is also offering pre-assembly of the switch plate now for an extra $25 I believe. That means no soldering for everybody who just wants to put the thing together and type away.
Are you sure Farnell does not sell to private customers in Germany?
Anyone know where to get Matias keycaps outside of this drop? I'd love to have non-blanks if I get Matias switches.I ordered a set of white PBT with black dye sub legends direct from Matias. It's not listed on their site but if you contact them and ask they will get you squared away.
Anyone know where to get Matias keycaps outside of this drop? I'd love to have non-blanks if I get Matias switches.I ordered a set of white PBT with black dye sub legends direct from Matias. It's not listed on their site but if you contact them and ask they will get you squared away.
And then I encourage you to join the group buy for teal modifiers from SP here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0
Now that you made me second-guess myself, I am not sure whether they're ABS or PBT. But according to the Matias website they are laser-etched, not dye-sublimated, so I misspoke possibly on both counts.Anyone know where to get Matias keycaps outside of this drop? I'd love to have non-blanks if I get Matias switches.I ordered a set of white PBT with black dye sub legends direct from Matias. It's not listed on their site but if you contact them and ask they will get you squared away.
And then I encourage you to join the group buy for teal modifiers from SP here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0
I didn't know they finished their PBT tooling yet. Interesting...
Now that you made me second-guess myself, I am not sure whether they're ABS or PBT. But according to the Matias website they are laser-etched, not dye-sublimated, so I misspoke possibly on both counts.Anyone know where to get Matias keycaps outside of this drop? I'd love to have non-blanks if I get Matias switches.I ordered a set of white PBT with black dye sub legends direct from Matias. It's not listed on their site but if you contact them and ask they will get you squared away.
And then I encourage you to join the group buy for teal modifiers from SP here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0
I didn't know they finished their PBT tooling yet. Interesting...
I honestly haven't looked to closely at them because I bought them for the Infinity which hasn't arrived yet. They are in a box on a shelf at the office. But I had planned from the get-go to replace the modifiers with teal from the group buy.
Actually it's past the IC phase and the GB is running. I pasted the link earlier but it might have gotten buried: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0Now that you made me second-guess myself, I am not sure whether they're ABS or PBT. But according to the Matias website they are laser-etched, not dye-sublimated, so I misspoke possibly on both counts.Anyone know where to get Matias keycaps outside of this drop? I'd love to have non-blanks if I get Matias switches.I ordered a set of white PBT with black dye sub legends direct from Matias. It's not listed on their site but if you contact them and ask they will get you squared away.
And then I encourage you to join the group buy for teal modifiers from SP here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0
I didn't know they finished their PBT tooling yet. Interesting...
I honestly haven't looked to closely at them because I bought them for the Infinity which hasn't arrived yet. They are in a box on a shelf at the office. But I had planned from the get-go to replace the modifiers with teal from the group buy.
Okay thanks. I'm still not totally sure what I'm going to do yet. I joined the Delta Blues GB awhile back but that one fell through. I'll be watching the new IC carefully.
Thanks for posting this as I was going to start my own thread on this drop and the board. I'm most concerned about the feel. I think it comes with a metal plate and have heard differing opinions on the board from people who have built it. Right now if I wait till its lowest price point for a board without caps or switches and the frosted case option it will be about $115.00 I have MX clears and gat blacks to try as well as springs and stabs from sprit. I also would like to add LEDs and I am not sure if the PCB is compatible with them. Another lesser concern is the programmability . As long as I can make a few small personal preference changes and supports LEDs I think it will be a nice cheap option for a beginner build. I missed out last time it was available and I am wondering if it is worth picking it up!
So for current infinity owners how do you like the feel of the boards? This is aimed at people with both plastic and metal/aluminum cases. Was this easy to solder (well/thought out) ? Are you happy with your completed boards and what they cost?
Any help and or opinions and feedback on your own experiences would be great !
Thanks guys and gals :thumb:
does the PCB have holes to add LEDs ?Thanks for posting this as I was going to start my own thread on this drop and the board. I'm most concerned about the feel. I think it comes with a metal plate and have heard differing opinions on the board from people who have built it. Right now if I wait till its lowest price point for a board without caps or switches and the frosted case option it will be about $115.00 I have MX clears and gat blacks to try as well as springs and stabs from sprit. I also would like to add LEDs and I am not sure if the PCB is compatible with them. Another lesser concern is the programmability . As long as I can make a few small personal preference changes and supports LEDs I think it will be a nice cheap option for a beginner build. I missed out last time it was available and I am wondering if it is worth picking it up!
So for current infinity owners how do you like the feel of the boards? This is aimed at people with both plastic and metal/aluminum cases. Was this easy to solder (well/thought out) ? Are you happy with your completed boards and what they cost?
Any help and or opinions and feedback on your own experiences would be great !
Thanks guys and gals :thumb:
In regards to backlighting, on Infinity 60% there is none.
This is probably a longshot, but would the PCB fit SMK switches? I'm in the drop regardless, but just curious about this.Nope, sorry. Cherry MX and standard Alps pin spacing only.
I have 5 infinities (1 v1, 4 v2 on the way-ish), I'm tempted to add 2 more just for the plastic cases, I love those plastic cases, would be great to have one of clear/black's, but I should obviously stopWhat were the previous spacebar issues?
The only remaining issue I have with the infinity is the plate symmetry, as it's something I can't easily solve, inside the vortex silver aluminium case, the V1 plate+pcb isn't centered, it's much more closer to the right side, and there is no safe wiggle space, as the usb is perfectly aligned in this placement
Comparatively, the plastic cases mask the plate, so such issues would be suppressed
While on flush 60% cases, any alignment/elevation differences stand out
Edit: the drop3 is very premature, the drop2 hasn't completely launched yet, there are spacebar issues reported again, they also shipped an order I bought from another massdrop user to his original address, it was their mistake, they don't reply to support emails/tickets fast, massdrop is really on my nerves lately, they are extremely greedy
I don't think the alignment issue is probably anything most people need to worry about. We've already established that KHAANNN notices things nobody else notices. He's like the Adrian Monk of keyboards.I have 5 infinities (1 v1, 4 v2 on the way-ish), I'm tempted to add 2 more just for the plastic cases, I love those plastic cases, would be great to have one of clear/black's, but I should obviously stopWhat were the previous spacebar issues?
The only remaining issue I have with the infinity is the plate symmetry, as it's something I can't easily solve, inside the vortex silver aluminium case, the V1 plate+pcb isn't centered, it's much more closer to the right side, and there is no safe wiggle space, as the usb is perfectly aligned in this placement
Comparatively, the plastic cases mask the plate, so such issues would be suppressed
While on flush 60% cases, any alignment/elevation differences stand out
Edit: the drop3 is very premature, the drop2 hasn't completely launched yet, there are spacebar issues reported again, they also shipped an order I bought from another massdrop user to his original address, it was their mistake, they don't reply to support emails/tickets fast, massdrop is really on my nerves lately, they are extremely greedy
Also, do you think version 2 or 3 fixed the pcb alignment issues?
What were the previous spacebar issues?
Also, do you think version 2 or 3 fixed the pcb alignment issues?
Edit: Thanks njbair for the vote of confidence :) - Indeed these are edge issues, but if you care about details, any of these issues might bother you
By the way, the replacement PCB massdrop is sending also seems to be Rev 1.01b, I also have a 1.01b, it's the pcb that I requested a replacements for, does this mean that PCB will also have the same diode placements that press on 60% cases? (I requested photos from Shipito, the Rev version is visible, yet the diode placements are not, haven't received it myself yet)As someone who has so many infinities, should I get one? Are there any issues besides the symmetry issue you mentioned?
By the way, the replacement PCB massdrop is sending also seems to be Rev 1.01b, I also have a 1.01b, it's the pcb that I requested a replacements for, does this mean that PCB will also have the same diode placements that press on 60% cases? (I requested photos from Shipito, the Rev version is visible, yet the diode placements are not, haven't received it myself yet)As someone who has so many infinities, should I get one? Are there any issues besides the symmetry issue you mentioned?
If I manage to sell my ErgoDox this is what the money will go towards to. I am definitely looking for a 60% that is fully programmable and I have been considering both the Nerd60 and the Infinity.By the way, the replacement PCB massdrop is sending also seems to be Rev 1.01b, I also have a 1.01b, it's the pcb that I requested a replacements for, does this mean that PCB will also have the same diode placements that press on 60% cases? (I requested photos from Shipito, the Rev version is visible, yet the diode placements are not, haven't received it myself yet)As someone who has so many infinities, should I get one? Are there any issues besides the symmetry issue you mentioned?
I have one, and 4 on the way, I intended to build them with different switches, but I settled on clears, going to gift one to my brother and one to a friend, build one with clears and the other with linears (abandoned clicky switches all together)
The one I have, definitely does what I want, so go ahead and buy one if you're ok with waiting 2+ months and the non-flexible layout, all keyboard have their issues, the only alternative I can see personally is to either buy the nerd60/pcb/plate or buy a flexible PCB like spirit's and get a plate manufactured, the nerd one is the easiest and shortest path, the most flexible one too
I would also strongly suggest you seek unbuilt infinities to buy, right now, a mechmarket/classifieds post might help you buy one fast
The nerd60's plate is better for the most part, it only supports pcb-mount cherry stabs, while the infinity one supports both, but the nerd60 plate locks switches in place well, while the infinity plate doesn't lock switch tops well, to support alps switches too, so everytime you're pulling of a keycap, you have to be extra gentle, otherwise the switch top might come off, the usb-port also has no pcb-support, it's just a surface mount usb-port
TL;DR: None of these are really strong issues, at 99$'s, definitely buy one, worst case scenario, you can sell it if you don't like it, consider the immediate buying options too :)
The drop just launched should have the new revision pcb, according to HaaTa, even a portion of the drop1 had the updated PCB, I have the Rev 1.01b pcb with diode issues, the replacement they sent is also 1.01b, but the new drop should be a different rev I guess, there are no definite answers from massdrop, actually there are no answers at all, there is no simple guide that lists each pcb rev and the changesThanks for the input. Really now it all hinges on if I can get the money. I am interested in the KLL so this may sway me, but I am still uncertain.
The new pcb's, should be optimal for 60%, regardless from the pcb revisions, but it would be great to get an official response
The politics of the infinity keyboard also seem very complicated, there is an input club that gets the credits, the open source projects seem to be authored by HaaTa, it's unclear what's the role of Massdrop in all of these, they probably just launch and re-launch the drop, without giving it any thought
So, it's more sane to just buy the nerd60, and either his universal plate, or a plate built from the swillkb builder, or just try to forget about these issues and buy an infinitykb and use it
Edit: I seem to bash the infinity project and massdrop, but, compared to the GH60 project for example, infinity is golden, at least we have a keyboard that works and works well :)
I find that quite interesting. I have managed to get my head around tmk quite well and use it on both my ergodox and hhkb, but I stared at KLL for a while and still couldn't understand it.
Btw, Haata, it would be awesome if you wrote a blog, guide or even for-pay e-book based on your experience in small-batch manufacturing and selling via Massdrop. After three rounds of keyboards sold, and two revisions, I'm sure your experience would be priceless to anyone who wishes to create and sell enthusiast hardware.
I'm a total noob when it comes to programmable boards. Can the Infinity be programmed to support spacefn? My ideal layout would be a main layer using colemak using spacefn with an option to latch the space/function down when doing something like media playback with no typing. A second gaming layer using qwerty without spacefn. Can the Infinity be programmed to handle that?
I'm a total noob when it comes to programmable boards. Can the Infinity be programmed to support spacefn? My ideal layout would be a main layer using colemak using spacefn with an option to latch the space/function down when doing something like media playback with no typing. A second gaming layer using qwerty without spacefn. Can the Infinity be programmed to handle that?
Not yet. However, I am working on a software update to make "tap-keys" (or as I call it, "Unique Release") work using kll. No eta yet, but I'm nearly done the kll spec draft for how the configuration files will look like.
The non-standard top row is really challenging me, the 1u Del at top worked well, but I decided to try the intended 1.5u backspace too, after realizing Home key would be great for `~ and Insert key would be great for \| (Ended up using `~ as `~, more appealing)For the record.
Looks good, but so far, it's hard to get used to, I hope my brain survives the trial, the 1u Del was actually pretty easy to get used to, as the left hand presses Esc with one finger, the right hand did the same for the 1u Del
(Attachment Link)
Can the "hacker" version be customized to work with 6.25 space bar? Did I make a big mistake getting the hacker layout? What are people doing with the hacker layout?
Can the "hacker" version be customized to work with 6.25 space bar? Did I make a big mistake getting the hacker layout? What are people doing with the hacker layout?
Can the "hacker" version be customized to work with 6.25 space bar? Did I make a big mistake getting the hacker layout? What are people doing with the hacker layout?
The PCB is the same for both. All you need are the right sized keycaps. Standard layout bottom row is 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25
Anyone else having trouble with the function lock keys in the configurator? I'm working with 3 layers: Main, 1, and 2. Main is QWERTY, 1 is function keys, 2 is Colemak.
Using "Lock-2" on the configurator switches to the Colemak layer as expected, but when I hit Lock-2 again the keyboard bugs out. I assumed it would "unlock" layer 2 and go back to the main layer, but instead it switches my infinity to a completely different layout that doesn't correspond to any of my 3 layers. It stays this way even after a reset and the only way it can be fixed is to flash the infinity again.
Anyone else experience this?
Can the "hacker" version be customized to work with 6.25 space bar? Did I make a big mistake getting the hacker layout? What are people doing with the hacker layout?
The PCB is the same for both. All you need are the right sized keycaps. Standard layout bottom row is 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25
https://www.massdrop.com/keyboard/infinity/assembly - I was referencing this plate, I see now that it's an old plate, the new one seems to have cutouts for both layouts
In that case, you only need to get a plate manufactured, in the end it will become a better keyboard - if you choose your plate/parameters right
Can the "hacker" version be customized to work with 6.25 space bar? Did I make a big mistake getting the hacker layout? What are people doing with the hacker layout?
If you are willing to drill the PCB, get a new plate produced, it can be converted to a standard layout (hard)
As for the mistake part, you might be able to sell it, and buy a new one from someone else
I personally like the standard layout myself, although it's not as "standard" as it can be, it suits my usage pretty well
-----
As for my usage, I decided to drill the PCB myself, 3d print custom plate parts with better cutouts and stab placements, and convert the 2x top 1u's to an 2u regular backspace
Currently waiting my final infinity to arrive, it was shipped only ~friday - going to export them soon
There is no "old plate" there have always been 2 plates and one PCB. One plate is Standard layout and the other plate is the Hacker layout. The files are in the github repo.
I'm having a similar issue, although instead of bugging out it just fails to unlock and I'm stuck in my Dvorak layer.
BTW, are you using the Input Club configurator or the Massdrop one?
njbair, Vindaon, have you tried adding separate layer buttons to your layers too?
I haven't use the configurator, I also don't lock layers with my usage, but I'm just wondering whether this is the problem
Finished building and programming my Infinity Keyboard with Lubed Gateron Blues, Calm Depths SA keycaps, Custom layout, and silenced keycaps with a combo of Durometer and Silicone.
Just some Beauty shots as I basically had to make my own Stabilizer setup.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mQk2XOomaWI/VYwkhKyzRxI/AAAAAAAAeVs/JeHWYREuh10/w1365-h716-no/IMG_20150625_095932.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ttMGRkDFm5HUw3YlYwpYi5A0w_JhNbkwRILRilKgYam-=w1751-h806-no)
Still looking for a Grey SA 1.75 Shift or Blank if someone happens to have one.Show Image(http://)
It's EXTREMELY hard to find color matched blanks in the wild, let alone a printed key (unless it was part of the original run)
Nice keyboard by the way, how does the R4 bottom row feel while typing?
Also it might be interesting to learn how and why you made your own stabiliser steup
It's EXTREMELY hard to find color matched blanks in the wild, let alone a printed key (unless it was part of the original run)
Nice keyboard by the way, how does the R4 bottom row feel while typing?
Also it might be interesting to learn how and why you made your own stabiliser steup
Basically, I had to do different things to different stabilizers (costar type) to make everything fit nicely. I used translucent stabilizers and ended up having to shave them all down and cut the backs on the keycap stabilizer inserts. The spacebar, I had to do in the inner stabilizer spot with cut stabilizers. My metal plate was pretty off as far as those go and its not something I could have easily checked. Taking metal files to the plate was required.
The unique profile of the Calm depths set works well here as its not severely sculpted in profile, but you still get the SA dish!
I silenced the keys with 4 silicone and 1 duromter oring per key. No bottom out noise, but still getting the same length on the stroke.
The return on the lubed Blues from Gateron is smooooth. Might change out the springs on the modifiers though. Originally bought MX greens for this guy, but mine were super gritty and still not as tactile as Gateron blues I had gotten in the week before. New MX Greens are just GRITTY IMO.
I just can't believe they didn't test build these more as just stabilizers took 4 times as look to fudge with than it did to build it.
On my latest build, I'm using fully lubed clears, I don't think I can ever use clicky MX switches again after testing the switches massdrop sent me - they left a rotten taste - I also have a batch of PCB-mount greens that I bought months ago, I was intending to build a single 60% with clicky switches for the occasional clicks, I will probably skip it now
So for future buyers: get the keycaps and switches elsewhere :) (massdrop is probably very unlucky, their SP blanks also seemed deformed to me at a quick glance, I was intending to use some of them for my 1.75/1.25/1.25/1.25 arrow cluster, I've skipped it for now)
Hope this drop could restart. I want one!
I ordered two boards during the second round. One with Matias Quiet switches and the other with MX Browns. I've had the Matias board for about a month and a half. The MX brown just arrived today. I haven't had time to open that one yet, but I've got the Matias board all assembled in a TEX aluminum case.
I'm kind of irked that the Massdrop version of the configurator software is still broken. The input.club one works, but you can't save a layout. That's a pain. And setting up the build system on Windows is pretty much a no-go at this point as well, which means I have to use my secondary computer (a Mac) or a Linux VM if I want to reload a config. Also, I'm sure the KLL spec is great and all, but it's not very approachable, which means you kind of have to become an expert if you want to hand-modify the config files. I was hoping to set up layers 1-4 for QWERTY, Dvorak, Colemak, and a function layer, respectively. So far I haven't been able to get the layer locking/unlocking working properly.
The other big issue I have, is that the plate is really too thick for Matias/Alps switches. The wings don't fully clip into place. Combine this with the extremely tight-fitting SP Alps DSA caps, and you're almost guaranteed to break off a switch or two while swapping caps. Compared to hasu's Alps PCB and the AEKII Alps plate from Nubbinator's recent GB, which holds Alps switches firmly and tightly, I don't think I would have gotten an Alps Infinity if I had it to do over again.
We'll see how the MX Brown build goes. I'm hoping the Cherry switches stay put a little better in the Infinity plate. I plan on setting that one up on my Ubuntu desktop at home, so maybe the firmware build process will go a little more smoothly in a native *nix environment.
I ordered two boards during the second round. One with Matias Quiet switches and the other with MX Browns. I've had the Matias board for about a month and a half. The MX brown just arrived today. I haven't had time to open that one yet, but I've got the Matias board all assembled in a TEX aluminum case.
I'm kind of irked that the Massdrop version of the configurator software is still broken. The input.club one works, but you can't save a layout. That's a pain. And setting up the build system on Windows is pretty much a no-go at this point as well, which means I have to use my secondary computer (a Mac) or a Linux VM if I want to reload a config. Also, I'm sure the KLL spec is great and all, but it's not very approachable, which means you kind of have to become an expert if you want to hand-modify the config files. I was hoping to set up layers 1-4 for QWERTY, Dvorak, Colemak, and a function layer, respectively. So far I haven't been able to get the layer locking/unlocking working properly.
The other big issue I have, is that the plate is really too thick for Matias/Alps switches. The wings don't fully clip into place. Combine this with the extremely tight-fitting SP Alps DSA caps, and you're almost guaranteed to break off a switch or two while swapping caps. Compared to hasu's Alps PCB and the AEKII Alps plate from Nubbinator's recent GB, which holds Alps switches firmly and tightly, I don't think I would have gotten an Alps Infinity if I had it to do over again.
We'll see how the MX Brown build goes. I'm hoping the Cherry switches stay put a little better in the Infinity plate. I plan on setting that one up on my Ubuntu desktop at home, so maybe the firmware build process will go a little more smoothly in a native *nix environment.
I always intended to use modifiers with extended/different purposes, like Shift+Esc as a pure ~ or Alt+I as F13+I+F13 or Ctrl+C as Alt+F4 etc. however, realistically speaking, I don't think this will happen - at least not soon - so I might also give tmk_keyboard another chance, you might consider it too (comparatively, tmk_keyboard's build fails at osx due to library issues, that's why I sticked to infinity's firmware, as it works, and it's pretty practical on osx to re-build and re-deploy) (the infinity framework is pretty much like a programmable poker, non-standard stuff is not possible, so I don't think we reap the benefits of full programmability)
Other than that, I strongly suggest a new plate (or new plates) - especially if you like switches to be perfectly aligned, the nudged cutouts are also non-optimal for Cherry's: http://builder.swillkb.com/ - the regular/square one is much better
Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mQk2XOomaWI/VYwkhKyzRxI/AAAAAAAAeVs/JeHWYREuh10/w1365-h716-no/IMG_20150625_095932.jpg)Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ttMGRkDFm5HUw3YlYwpYi5A0w_JhNbkwRILRilKgYam-=w1751-h806-no)
Has anyone created a Poker II like layout yet on the Infinity keyboard ? I have both my boards built, but I can't just get over the default HHKB based layout.
Has anyone created a Poker II like layout yet on the Infinity keyboard ? I have both my boards built, but I can't just get over the default HHKB based layout.
I did, I'm glad I did too: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72183.0
Theoretically, the PCB should allow almost all kinds of non-standard layouts, the path design seems to be simple enough to allow bypasses (probably not around the space area tho, that area is very crowded, probably adding PCB-mount cherry stabs would be extremely challenging too)
It would have been awesome if the empty areas of the PCB weren't grounded tho, I wonder whether it could pose issues (don't know why they are grounded, whether it has a purpose, but the texture of the PCB seems to be ground lining, as pointed out by another buyer)
Has anyone created a Poker II like layout yet on the Infinity keyboard ? I have both my boards built, but I can't just get over the default HHKB based layout.
I did, I'm glad I did too: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72183.0
Theoretically, the PCB should allow almost all kinds of non-standard layouts, the path design seems to be simple enough to allow bypasses (probably not around the space area tho, that area is very crowded, probably adding PCB-mount cherry stabs would be extremely challenging too)
It would have been awesome if the empty areas of the PCB weren't grounded tho, I wonder whether it could pose issues (don't know why they are grounded, whether it has a purpose, but the texture of the PCB seems to be ground lining, as pointed out by another buyer)
I've created a secondary configurator link which has the absolute latest source code (updates every hour or so). This way you don't have to wait for a full roll-out to try out new changes.
(Fixes double presses)
http://configurator.input.club/latest/ (http://configurator.input.club/latest/)
Still validating OS compatibility (typing should be fine, though there are some debug console issues left I think).
Interestingly I managed to avoid this issue even with clears, didn't even upgrade to the latest firmware yet as it's a lot of work to create a system to persist kll changes
So far I was mostly lucky with infinities, hope my luck persists, I also avoided the pcbs with the missing diodes
Going to share my 3rd infinity build soon, but here's the second one:
(Attachment Link)
Top row drilled to convert it to an 2u - before this I was in agony with a 1u Del
Did you give the HHKB layout a shot, with Backspace directly above Enter in the Backslash position? I found that works pretty well once you get used to it.
Here is my latest/3rd build, a gift to my brother, with 60g lubed springs, tactile grey stems and the Hack'd by Geeks set:
(Attachment Link)
Learned a lot with this build too, the most important lesson was to surface drill/sand-away the ground connections around the spots where the non-standard keycaps was going to be connected
And here are some build photos, the usb connector strengthening was probably my best one yet, it's tied, over-soldered, glued and hot-glued - however a strong pull could still tore it apart, but I'm guessing a strong pull could tore apart anything
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
After the components quality concerns, I considered using other PCB's, only the PCB is left from the actual infinity, however, I couldn't find an alternative PCB that I could verify the PCB routes/compatibility from photos, so sticked with the infinity PCB's - I also don't think there is an electronically bullet proof PCB out there yet, at least not for amateur 60%'s
And here are some build photos, the usb connector strengthening was probably my best one yet, it's tied, over-soldered, glued and hot-glued - however a strong pull could still tore it apart, but I'm guessing a strong pull could tore apart anything
What's the story with that plate? Is it plastic?
That's a pretty neat mod, definitely a lot of work involved! Are you planning to do even more? Because routing may or may not change on future revisions :p
Though I'd be remiss in pointing out that the extra solder is totally unnecessary, as a proper solder connection to a pad is generally stronger than the pad's connection to the underlying substrate, and is strongest in the intermetallic directly between the two parts (metal and pad). So, just a full reflow of each pad would have worked just as well, perhaps with the addition of a tiny bit of leaded solder. I think if you really want to go for total overkill, you could probably drill very small holes to either side (avoiding the traces of course), passing something like a thin steel wire through over the connector, and tying it off below with pliers.
For those who are curious, it's actually super simple to build TMK firmware and flash it to the Infinity. In fact, you don't even have to overwrite the bootloader. Once I had all the build dependencies installed on my linux desktop, I just had to put the Infinity into bootloader mode by pressing the bottom button, then burn the firmware using dfu-util.
For those who are curious, it's actually super simple to build TMK firmware and flash it to the Infinity. In fact, you don't even have to overwrite the bootloader. Once I had all the build dependencies installed on my linux desktop, I just had to put the Infinity into bootloader mode by pressing the bottom button, then burn the firmware using dfu-util.
This is great to hear. I've got an Infinity ordered from the third drop and have been taking a look at TMK to use for spacefn. I've got a ubuntu virtual machine setup and I think I'm understanding at least the layout. I don't completely understand what I'm doing, but I'm muddling through. It's been a long, long time since I've done any programming. I don't think I've used C since high school, and I'm pretty sure the last time I did any programming for work was with 16 bit Visual Basic and Access. I suspect the estimated ship date of tomorrow is a bit optimistic and based on the previous drops I still have plenty of time to get familiar with it. :)
[2] ACTION_LAYER_TAP_KEY(1, KC_SPC)
I really can't express how happy I am with the results using TMK firmware on this board. I had honestly begun to regret buying two Infinities because of my inability to get the layout to do what I wanted, but TMK has given them new life. I'm pretty psyched, in case you couldn't tell.
I really can't express how happy I am with the results using TMK firmware on this board. I had honestly begun to regret buying two Infinities because of my inability to get the layout to do what I wanted, but TMK has given them new life. I'm pretty psyched, in case you couldn't tell.
Thanks a lot for sharing this, I gave up on the infinity firmware's pace too, a while ago, however the firmware seems solid to me, by the way, are you able to measure the amper usage of the infinity kb with tmk_keyboard, my only concern with the tmk_firmware was that it uses a wrapper for ARM, I was afraid it could have been untested and maybe lead to issues (I'm very impressed that the infinitykb uses <=0.01A - I just wonder whether that's because of the firmware is light)
The actual reason I gave up on tmk_keyobard is because I'm too lazy to ssh to a linux server to compile tmk and the osx build routine simply doesn't work, the mbed library isn't compatible with osx/arm, however the issue seems to be pathced/non-existent at the linux versions - comparatively, modifying and compiling the infinity firmware is also very simple, similar to your experience with tmk
I want to extend the "Alt" functionality to output different character sequences that I use frequently, I want to merge the command functionality with the Fn key of the keyboard, but I also need to keep the regular "Alt"/"Cmd" functionality, mainly for Alt+click Command+click's and combos - and many more modifications similar to this, I guess I should also look into tmk_keyboard and test it on my infinity v1
Yeah, sorry about not being as active I should be (I could go into working 13 hour days for the past 3 months at my real job, but no one cares about that :P).
But! Work is actually slowing down so I should be able to more actively work on features/bugs again.
Yeah...that Massdrop configurator. I ended up having to get matt3o to help me out to get one made. Massdrop engineering screwed me over, promising me something in October, then saying in April, "Nope can't do it". It wasn't till May that I had something working.
At least the configurator is opensource now.
Like hasu, I'm just one guy working on keyboard firmware.
TMK is more mature/tested, KLL is more ambitious (and may have a larger install base at this point). But yeah, I make an effort to send all the keyboards I make to hasu just in case he wants to add support (I definitely read his code a lot when working on USB NKRO).
I haven't done any power measurements of the IC60 (I can do some if there's interest).
The current shipment of IC60 is delayed because of (stupid) pcb fabs. We've been trying to fix all the soldering and pcb issues on the IC60 (and ErgoDox) but it's been a long process.
As a bonus, this version of the IC60 will have quite a few fixes (better pcb fab, better soldering, general layout fixes based on user issues). We really do try to read all the comments.
Anyways, back to work so I can go home early and work on KLL :D
Yeah, sorry about not being as active I should be (I could go into working 13 hour days for the past 3 months at my real job, but no one cares about that :P).
But! Work is actually slowing down so I should be able to more actively work on features/bugs again.
Yeah...that Massdrop configurator. I ended up having to get matt3o to help me out to get one made. Massdrop engineering screwed me over, promising me something in October, then saying in April, "Nope can't do it". It wasn't till May that I had something working.
At least the configurator is opensource now.
Like hasu, I'm just one guy working on keyboard firmware.
TMK is more mature/tested, KLL is more ambitious (and may have a larger install base at this point). But yeah, I make an effort to send all the keyboards I make to hasu just in case he wants to add support (I definitely read his code a lot when working on USB NKRO).
I haven't done any power measurements of the IC60 (I can do some if there's interest).
The current shipment of IC60 is delayed because of (stupid) pcb fabs. We've been trying to fix all the soldering and pcb issues on the IC60 (and ErgoDox) but it's been a long process.
As a bonus, this version of the IC60 will have quite a few fixes (better pcb fab, better soldering, general layout fixes based on user issues). We really do try to read all the comments.
Anyways, back to work so I can go home early and work on KLL :D
Just measured an IC60 current. I'd say it's around 18.3 mA @ 5 V
Which is pretty good given that I've done very little in the firmware to make it power efficient (there are things I can do, but I don't really want to look into them until I get more features implemented).
Just measured an IC60 current. I'd say it's around 18.3 mA @ 5 V
Which is pretty good given that I've done very little in the firmware to make it power efficient (there are things I can do, but I don't really want to look into them until I get more features implemented).
infinity's are also very power efficient, that's why I was hesitant to switch to tmk, as I have no idea how much a difference firmware makes (the usb ampermeters read 0.00/0.01 with infinity/infinity firmware)
I guess I should find a compiled tmk firmware just for testing purposes, njbair, if you could upload one somewhere I could test it
90% - it will also use 0.00/0.01 similarly
5% - it could use more if it loops too much (?)
5% - it could use more due to not being native to ARM
Quick question, how do you flash with the hex file?
I use dfu-util at osx to flash .bin's, but my quick google searches for hex flashing were fruitless
Quick question, how do you flash with the hex file?
I use dfu-util at osx to flash .bin's, but my quick google searches for hex flashing were fruitless
Yep, it's dfu-util -D infinity.bin
Quick question, how do you flash with the hex file?
I use dfu-util at osx to flash .bin's, but my quick google searches for hex flashing were fruitless
Yep, it's dfu-util -D infinity.bin
The file you uploaded seems to be infinity.hex, that's why I asked, don't want to attempt a dfu-util -D before being sure :)
Quick question, how do you flash with the hex file?
I use dfu-util at osx to flash .bin's, but my quick google searches for hex flashing were fruitless
Yep, it's dfu-util -D infinity.bin
The file you uploaded seems to be infinity.hex, that's why I asked, don't want to attempt a dfu-util -D before being sure :)
My bad! See attached.
Quick question, how do you flash with the hex file?
I use dfu-util at osx to flash .bin's, but my quick google searches for hex flashing were fruitless
Yep, it's dfu-util -D infinity.bin
The file you uploaded seems to be infinity.hex, that's why I asked, don't want to attempt a dfu-util -D before being sure :)
My bad! See attached.
Thanks!
There is no change in power usage, it's still 0.01A with tmk/infinity
This chip does have power saving modes, but I haven't played around them much.
I might take a look at it once I get USB waking/suspending working properly.
This chip does have power saving modes, but I haven't played around them much.
I might take a look at it once I get USB waking/suspending working properly.
Ah, I forgot this was an ARM chip. I actually don't know much about those...most of my experience is with 8-bit stuff, and the Parallax Propeller back in the day.
Really, power saving doesn't sound like a huge priority because it would only even be an issue with laptops, and people generally don't leave a keyboard plugged into a laptop when they store it for transport. Unless there's another benefit that I don't know about?
It's of significant benefit when calculating bluetooth feasibility...
*cough*
It's of significant benefit when calculating bluetooth feasibility...
*cough*
A plastic plate wouldn't be a bad idea just to keep weight down. I have a Minila Air that actually works really well over bluetooth, but a programmable board with a more standard layout would be a huge upgrade. If it was a little lighter, even better.
I want to test the capacitors to see for myself whether they really match the specs: https://github.com/kiibohd/pcb/blob/master/Massdrop1/massdrop1.pdf
As my electrical knowledge is basic, is it safe to measure the capacitances when the capacitors are connected to the circuit?
Since C6 seems relatively isolated, I went ahead and checked it, it reads 93n - while the spec is 100n - the PCB kept on functioning afterwards
I would like some advice/insight before I go forward
But it's possible the fab sourced cheaper components (and not the exact part numbers we specified) without telling us.
I don't see how they could go so wrong, similarly, I can't imagine how a part manufacturer could produce so out-of-bound components and stay in business
Probably not imminent. I'm currently finishing up ErgoDox related things (base firmware is done, minus a final compatibility check).
However, in a couple weeks I have a business trip (to Chicago) so I might be able to dedicate a bunch of time to things like modifiers/timing/etc. because it's harder to do hardware related testing without my lab.
The spec is pretty much done (unless there are some extra features needed).
If you wouldn't mind taking a look (specifically any section with "State Scheduling" and "Timing") to see if you can do what you want with this spec?
https://www.overleaf.com/read/mnnqqpnxhhyr (https://www.overleaf.com/read/mnnqqpnxhhyr)
Also, as an FYI, I'll be posting all the KLL specs here -> http://input.club/kll (http://input.club/kll)
U["LShift", "RShift"] + U"Esc" : '~';That one, it depends on what's your expected behaviour.
If Shift, then Esc is the only one you need (and should be working since the first Infinity shipped in February):Code: [Select]U["LShift", "RShift"] + U"Esc" : '~';
For clarity, I'll explain what this means.
U["LShift", "RShift"] means I want to take any of these keys in this range as an element. It's also possible to do U["A"-"Z"]. Be careful though, some ranges don't behave as you'd expect ("1"-"0" is actually 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 and "0"-"9" is 0,9 because of how USB Codes are arranged in the spec).
The + just means both have to happen at the same time.
The single quotes ' ' are a special macro expansion. It will evaluate any ASCII expression into USB Codes. Case matters unlike the double quotes (which is for symbolic names).
'~' expands into U"LShift" + U"BackTick".
I don't mind creating a list of commonly used 'Examples" actually. Unfortunately, I don't really know what they are (I don't use keys like this very often). If I can get a list of commonly used "special" keymappings I could write up a wiki page on how I'd implement them (or which KLL spec they'll be implemented in, and what the syntax would look like).
That one, it depends on what's your expected behaviour.
If Shift, then Esc is the only one you need (and should be working since the first Infinity shipped in February):Code: [Select]U["LShift", "RShift"] + U"Esc" : '~';
For clarity, I'll explain what this means.
U["LShift", "RShift"] means I want to take any of these keys in this range as an element. It's also possible to do U["A"-"Z"]. Be careful though, some ranges don't behave as you'd expect ("1"-"0" is actually 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 and "0"-"9" is 0,9 because of how USB Codes are arranged in the spec).
The + just means both have to happen at the same time.
The single quotes ' ' are a special macro expansion. It will evaluate any ASCII expression into USB Codes. Case matters unlike the double quotes (which is for symbolic names).
'~' expands into U"LShift" + U"BackTick".
I don't mind creating a list of commonly used 'Examples" actually. Unfortunately, I don't really know what they are (I don't use keys like this very often). If I can get a list of commonly used "special" keymappings I could write up a wiki page on how I'd implement them (or which KLL spec they'll be implemented in, and what the syntax would look like).
Ah, yep, you are correct.
This is an interesting problem because there has to be an algorithm to decide which output is more important (e.g. priority).
For this example, there are 3 different outputs going on simultaneously:(the shifts actually overlap, so they aren't really a problem in this example)
- Shift
- Esc
- Shift+BackTick
The most sophisticated algorithm, would be to apply a priority rating to each macro assignment. This might be useful for extremely sophisticated combinations, but nothing really comes to mind right now.
Perhaps the easier option is to exclude sub-keys in the macro from being processed. This could be done, without changing KLL (and I think makes more sense overall).
For example, when pressing Shift, both Sequences (Shift and Shift+Esc) activate. Since Shift is complete, it sends out the Shift USB Code. Now, when Esc is pressed, there are two Sequences that can be activated (Esc, and Shift+Esc).
Since Shift+Esc is a long macro and already has an element ready in the sequence, it takes precedence and "consumes" the Esc key. This means that USB Esc is never sent.
Would something like that work? I'd probably have an enable/disable option for it in KLL (default enabled, because I think it makes more sense than the default case).
I'll think about it over lunch, but I could probably implement this rather quickly (maybe today?).
So, I was about to write an explanation on why, but then, figured, might as well write an example on how to use events directly. :thumb:
You're correct, I haven't implemented any specific examples of using capabilities yet (which are extremely useful for this sort of thing).
Even implemented a "super" basic key blocking (only works for a single key at a time). Doesn't require any changes to the kll spec (even though I found/fixed a bug in the compiler while writing it :P).
Code changes.
https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/commit/398018ecf86bac3174d40b8cfb7d7321130759db (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/commit/398018ecf86bac3174d40b8cfb7d7321130759db)
Using the "custom capabilities/actions" in a kll file.
https://github.com/kiibohd/kll/commit/5f8880d7efd7cc0abceb3543a03ba8db78135e7d (https://github.com/kiibohd/kll/commit/5f8880d7efd7cc0abceb3543a03ba8db78135e7d)
Just replace md1Overlay in https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/blob/master/Keyboards/infinity.bash (https://github.com/kiibohd/controller/blob/master/Keyboards/infinity.bash) to md1Action and run the script to try it out.
If you don't mind writing a bit of C code, it's possible to fully interact with all key states (Usually, just Press/Release/Hold but sometimes Off as well). This will also translate to Analog states in the future.
The clunky part here is specifying output USB codes. Due to a compiler/spec limitation it has to be a number (hex or decimal), but I can fix this in a future version.
Seems to work quite well for the Shift+Esc is ~ case. And can work for other single cases as well (simultaneous cases would require a more complicated C code).
Now, I'm not really sure if this is the best approach for this specific case, but it does work.
To lighten things up, I have been using some of the canary code and it does fix many of the issues originally encountered.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aC04cD8W1u0oP0-oF-QcITU4UowHtbyNDehIKidFd0N9WhhbbpLMzOaB0jSt8j2ikiftbwBKBv9qm0E_TO9P0TsShxI2SyRY5N-RNLEX7z9LSe-Gxog62ILF1PGVXMLE6__XaK8lUAlR9UoNA7dhltaHl6TybP_ZSHWr3IklUgYE76dof691oGFs8TeK7WA8P4-L-ZBImTS-VrggEQ-P3essUTDsjTKOT1tMq-KZ9hkPaZiiTJvF-fEdiJ2jpFJ3lOj2a-qRFkvPtL3z5eEsO8QrFsnss4vCQNz6xm7Wd3BQDmAdlma-x_r4O0Nm09I71drs8VIRYufJeK9VwnvmsCGLJZCXI2_P7N2lSVvJTZGM7MdOFiGjfBqK4T3Z6rjedwG47a-iNhgW1YhRL7ipK-w57DQbwDYHRFV_F0z3NHFEc0z7mYLtrErGNMLjOLxK_DiWbgJWLHNXriOebU3PtYG06fzOhGp4R5P8WIwR70_O6iWD5VMkVKUzmEsQoQXqX1gCWvJl5ehf_QqcSV40Pyix2TM6FX0nTc7SdpPgQwW5=w2880-h1004-no)
Got some useful items in the SP trash bag and actually I have quite a few ACTUAL 1.75u sized Shift keycaps if people are interested. MX only though.
I have a Sprit PCB based 60% I am building right now.
Honestly, I really like the layout of the Infinity other than some minor issues with getting certain keycaps.
From experience, I can say that interrupts can be a total Pain in the butt sometimes and you have 60+ of them in virtually any keyboard. That means you need buffer queue's and being able to structure that to work as optimally as possible is not an easy task. These Freescale chipsets on here are just more capable than the ATMega series from Atmel. Like anything new, there are issues but there are many things to like about the infinity and more importantly the architecture of the whole system that allows for greater overall flexibility and scale for custom keyboards than TMK and FaceW do at the moment. As a Linux user, I also really appreciate the ease of load and go. Granted, windows users do not have the same luxury.... but blame windows there.
Honestly, I would like to get some plates and such available outside of Massdrop. I can get stuff waterjetted and PCB's made if there is enough interest.
Can anyone of you folks able to help me out? I've spent few days figuring out how could I use the very well appreciated TMK firmware on the latest infinity 60% keyboard dropped by MD but apparently I simply can't succeed. I get to a point where my environment is properly setup. I'm using Ubuntu bash shell under Windows 10 and it seemingly works fine. I can build configurations and I can write them on the keyboard in both KLL and TMK. I made a simple keymap file (Attachment Link) and managed to build the firmware so now I have the infinity.bin file. I can successfully write this file onto the keyboard but it doesn't react on any button press after the firmware is flashed (not even after disconnecting and reconnecting the keyboard). I can restore the keyboard by writing the original KLL firmware on it, so it is not a brick (yet). I really would love to use TMK because I need spaceFN and I wasn't able to achieve that with KLL no matter what I've tried. Can anyone give me hint what do I need to do to get TMK firmware working on this keyboard?
Have you tried using the client side configurator? https://github.com/kiibohd/configurator/releases/latestThere wasn't any issues getting tmk_keyboard/keyboards/infinity to compile, but that bin file did nothing when flashed. What I actually needed to compile and couldn't get to work was tmk_keyboard/keyboards/infinity_chibios. Though out of sheer stubbornness, I finally found a version of ChibiOS as well as a custom fork of TMK that allowed it to compile and work when flashed.
Also, if you installed the Zadig driver incorrectly, the keyboard will stop working. You'll need to remove the driver.
This goes through the procedure to remove the driver: https://github.com/nefarius/ScpToolkit/wiki/Manual-driver-removal
Though I'd try flashing with the client side configurator first.
So does TMK work reliably on Infinities, I have 3 infinities that I need to reprogram