Post by: 127001 on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:11:10
(http://i.imgur.com/oObePL8.jpg)
Just look at how tiny it is :D :
(http://i.imgur.com/gAE8eAu.jpg)
And the future (diagram) layout :
(http://i.imgur.com/YHwX3i0.jpg)
Post em'!
Info:
http://kishy.dyndns.org/?tag=kishsaver
Post by: rowdy on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:21:42
Post by: 127001 on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:24:29
Post by: rowdy on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:30:25
43+ from my understanding...
That many? :eek:
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:32:40
Post by: 127001 on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:34:00
For this recent batch, there were around 20 units, if I remember correctly.
Just that many came to the US.
Post by: rowdy on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:34:38
Post by: 127001 on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:36:14
I'd kinda got the idea from somewhere that these were a very limited custom run.
They're all for banks: http://kishy.dyndns.org/?tag=kishsaver
Post by: 127001 on Mon, 16 December 2013, 17:36:54
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 14:23:16
(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/flags/LL)
Post by: 127001 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:27:45
Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/flags/LL)
Yours seems to have a bunch of funky keys like mine. Were any of your Springs broken? I had one which I'll need to replace. I plan on changing the layout though so I think I'll have a spare. Also I need to repaint the top plate ; lots of rust poking through.
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:39:49
So yeah, things that are missing, the keys obviously. Then I am missing the wire for my spacebar, will I just have to try to make my own wire? Mine needs a bit of paint in some places, top corner is the only part on the top that needs paint. Mine had no rust, I opened it up and it seemed really clean inside.Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/)
Yours seems to have a bunch of funky keys like mine. Were any of your Springs broken? I had one which I'll need to replace. I plan on changing the layout though so I think I'll have a spare. Also I need to repaint the top plate ; lots of rust poking through.
Here it is after its cleaning.
(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/36/3687c134_DSC_0646.jpeg)
I want to contact unicomp and see if they can do custom keycaps, I could get one test one and then if it works we could all go that way. (since I don't think the PD1-3 keys are found on any other keyboard)
I know the short shift is something that can be found on a 122 key, but that is it.
Also, this thing is so heavy, it weighed in at 6.5 pounds. I know nothing about the model f's, are they all made of metal?
Also, we need to find the right paint for touching these up :D
EDIT: Enter and reset are missing as well, those are where the control keys are.
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:40:54
Post by: jwaz on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:43:57
Post by: 127001 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:53:31
The pd3/enter key is a weird size ; the same as the short shift. I have a couple of donor boards around so I was able to get one to put in place of the pd3. I'd love to replace all the keys but I don't know if unicorn has that sort shift mold... Worst case scenario I just ansi mod it and make it like the Hhbk... Which would be fine in my eyes.So yeah, things that are missing, the keys obviously. Then I am missing the wire for my spacebar, will I just have to try to make my own wire? Mine needs a bit of paint in some places, top corner is the only part on the top that needs paint. Mine had no rust, I opened it up and it seemed really clean inside.Tuning in!Nice!Show Image(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1798169/)
Yours seems to have a bunch of funky keys like mine. Were any of your Springs broken? I had one which I'll need to replace. I plan on changing the layout though so I think I'll have a spare. Also I need to repaint the top plate ; lots of rust poking through.
Here it is after its cleaning.Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/3/36/3687c134_DSC_0646.jpeg)
I want to contact unicomp and see if they can do custom keycaps, I could get one test one and then if it works we could all go that way. (since I don't think the PD1-3 keys are found on any other keyboard)
I know the short shift is something that can be found on a 122 key, but that is it.
Also, this thing is so heavy, it weighed in at 6.5 pounds. I know nothing about the model f's, are they all made of metal?
Also, we need to find the right paint for touching these up :D
EDIT: Enter and reset are missing as well, those are where the control keys are.
As for the keys with stabilizers I have a 3D printer coming and I plan on just printing that part out and adding the to the keys. There's also the matter of the plastic stand offs that hold the plate to the case... They've all snapped in half. Going to print some of those off too.
Also I doubt very much that the inside plate of your board has no rust... Every one I've ever bought has been rusting on that plate. I think IBM didn't use rust proof paint. It's about a 3 day fix to sand it, cover the first, and then cover in rustolium.
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 19:58:26
Post by: 127001 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 20:05:23
I am going to need to take it all the way apart, I didn't realize you meant that plate, for some reason I thought you meant there was rust on the top piece. I am tired and not reading correctly ^-^
I got ya. And yeah we do need to find a pair for the case.
I'm actually thinking of finding a professional to sand blast the whole thing and repaint it the same color.
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 20:14:42
I might consider the repainting, if the cost is good and the texture and color turns out the same.I am going to need to take it all the way apart, I didn't realize you meant that plate, for some reason I thought you meant there was rust on the top piece. I am tired and not reading correctly ^-^
I got ya. And yeah we do need to find a pair for the case.
I'm actually thinking of finding a professional to sand blast the whole thing and repaint it the same color.
It's all apart, ahh, where can I check to find rust?
(http://i.imgur.com/BHlqnu9.jpg)
Post by: 127001 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 20:29:19
The hardest part is sanding ; that can take 1 or 2 hours. Everything else us just spray painting and waiting. I wouldn't do it until winter is over though. And don't and it until you're ready to paint it, it will just rust.
That back plate, with the stickers us galvanized and shouldn't really have any rust on it. I think the case might be galvanized as well.
EDIT:
You can see it in this picture :
(http://i.imgur.com/NC4PGRG.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 21:43:01
God I wish there was an oversized, heavy case like this for the poker, that would be awesome, throw some classic beige pbt keycaps on it, retro swag :P
Post by: JPG on Tue, 17 December 2013, 22:09:56
I will look again later but I honestly didn't see any or much at least.
God I wish there was an oversized, heavy case like this for the poker, that would be awesome, throw some classic beige pbt keycaps on it, retro swag :P
Have you tried the F switches side by side with a poker? My filco, that feels so nice since I got it, always feels "cheap" and "super soft" when I use both, one after the other.
So all you want, is all you got and a converter/controller to use it.
Note to myself: How did I miss this?
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 22:20:26
I wish I possessed the tools necessary to just make a keyboard case at any time though :rolleyes:
Post by: noisyturtle on Tue, 17 December 2013, 23:34:56
Post by: 127001 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 23:43:53
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 December 2013, 23:55:26
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 00:17:38
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
22.25mm wide
Connection prongs are 9mm long
wire is 2mm thick
I'll take a photo tomorrow some time. My bar is way too stiff when it's in place though so I wonder if it's the right bar in the first place...
Either way I'm going to make adjustments to it.
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 00:45:12
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
22.25mm wide
Connection prongs are 9mm long
wire is 2mm thick
I'll take a photo tomorrow some time. My bar is way too stiff when it's in place though so I wonder if it's the right bar in the first place...
Either way I'm going to make adjustments to it.
My F122 stabilizer is ~1mm thick, not 2mm. The connection prongs are closer to 4 or 5mm. I don't know what the Kishsaver takes yet, but I imagine it to be the same as the F122. You probably have an M stabilizer.
If the stabilizer snaps into the space bar, then it's almost certainly an M space bar. The F122 space bar has holes that the prongs slide into, not snap into.
Post by: MKULTRA on Wed, 18 December 2013, 00:46:21
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 00:52:57
127001, can I get a picture of the spacebar wire and maybe its length and such?133mm long
22.25mm wide
Connection prongs are 9mm long
wire is 2mm thick
I'll take a photo tomorrow some time. My bar is way too stiff when it's in place though so I wonder if it's the right bar in the first place...
Either way I'm going to make adjustments to it.
My F122 stabilizer is ~1mm thick, not 2mm. The connection prongs are closer to 4 or 5mm. I don't know what the Kishsaver takes yet, but I imagine it to be the same as the F122. You probably have an M stabilizer.
If the stabilizer snaps into the space bar, then it's almost certainly an M space bar. The F122 space bar has holes that the prongs slide into, not snap into.
Thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have even more work :P
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 00:59:22
Thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have even more work :P
I'm working on making a converter stabilizer, but I've been told multiple times that there are easier ways. I'm still going to see if I can work it out, but fohat.digs has recommended making the tabs to hold the larger M space bar stabilizer, not the other way around:
Making a tab is easy. I used sheet metal bent into a "Z" shape and epoxied in place.
I made mine rather long, and they can be "tuned" by bending the opening longer or shorter.
(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50475.0;attach=48274;image)
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:04:46
Thought that might be the case. Thanks for the info. Looks like I have even more work :P
I'm working on making a converter stabilizer, but I've been told multiple times that there are easier ways. I'm still going to see if I can work it out, but fohat.digs has recommended making the tabs to hold the larger M space bar stabilizer, not the other way around:Making a tab is easy. I used sheet metal bent into a "Z" shape and epoxied in place.
I made mine rather long, and they can be "tuned" by bending the opening longer or shorter.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=50475.0;attach=48274;image)
When you have the opportunity could you measure the width of the stabilizer bar for your f122? Is it the same as the dimension I mentioned? if so I'll try just making some adapter rings and get some 1mm thick wire
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:11:40
P.S. I couldn't think of anything that would adapt the size from 1mm to 2mm, but it would work wonderfully if you could find the right piece.
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:14:17
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:19:42
I'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:22:25
I'll let you know when I get to it. It'll likely be a month from now just FYII'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:31:28
That's all right by me. I'll be occupied with my 60% M project if my parts come in a timely manner.I'll let you know when I get to it. It'll likely be a month from now just FYII'm thinking of just printing off some rings in the next few weeks that would do it. I'll try to make a few dozen of them.I'd take a dozen. For the future. Because I don't know when/if I'll need them and I can't imagine they are going to be expensive. (if they are, I'll take 4 :P)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 18 December 2013, 01:54:27
(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Post by: rowdy on Wed, 18 December 2013, 03:41:40
Oh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Be happy - you have Enter key :)
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 07:29:14
And a reset key, and a shift key and pd1-3 keys :POh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Be happy - you have Enter key :)
Lucky
Post by: Game Theory on Wed, 18 December 2013, 07:37:33
Oh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
That ones looks almost exactly like mine with all three PD# keys. Though I am missing keytops for the two keys next to the Alts.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 18 December 2013, 07:37:48
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3665/10970752036_ed4cfe87ba.jpg)
After:
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2838/11333210263_1ea8725f2e.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 08:03:35
Post by: 127001 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 08:07:29
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 18 December 2013, 08:10:18
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 11:13:32
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 18 December 2013, 11:15:04
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 18 December 2013, 11:22:42
HPE1000, keep us informed. I'd like those caps as well :D.The listing on their website makes it sound like its a full set but the person said they could do the 7 keys. I think I will ask what the price of a full set would be since some of my keys are slightly dented and such. These will obviously be 2 piece keys unlike the stock kishsaver keys but it really doesn't matter, makes cleaning the keycaps easier anyway :)
Anyone know what their custom printed keycap process is? Are they just printed, etched, dye-subbed?
I just love unicomps fast responses though, they always seem to have top quality customer service from what I have seen.
http://pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/CPSET
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 18 December 2013, 14:45:08
And a reset key, and a shift key and pd1-3 keys :POh boy oh boy oh boy, here's another! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/4mxjBOL.jpg)
Need to give it a good cleaning, that's for sure. And some paint issues. I also suspect I should open this up and check for rust, as you others in the thread are experiencing issues with that. Feels good though! :thumb:
Be happy - you have Enter key :)
Lucky
Indeed! I noticed right away that I lucked out and got the full set of keycaps. :)
Now we just need that controller to get finished up... :p
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 18 December 2013, 21:56:40
Mine had all of the correct keys except for the right shift. It even has the original spacebar and stabilizer. I have a comparison for those who want to make sure which spacebar they have, even if they don't have the stabilizer. It cleaned up quite nice, minus the dried paint that someone dropped onto it at some point.
For the full text commentary and more pictures, here's the imgur album link http://imgur.com/a/HuLNV#0 (http://imgur.com/a/HuLNV#0).
Some select images for here:
Dirty:
(http://i.imgur.com/raMyFWWh.jpg)
The wrong shift key:
(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
Keys popped off:
(http://i.imgur.com/vlMJBGWh.jpg)
Stabilizer comparison:
(http://i.imgur.com/lo5ajHeh.jpg)
F stabilizer:
(http://i.imgur.com/xN9rpumh.jpg)
M stabilizer:
(http://i.imgur.com/LhYDUOhh.jpg)
Clean!
(http://i.imgur.com/DTrLK5dh.jpg)
Post by: wcass on Sat, 21 December 2013, 20:54:35
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: wcass on Sat, 21 December 2013, 21:13:46
My space bar is in OK shape, but what i did for another model F (and i still have extra material) is to use music wire for a replacement wire and thin stainless tubing to increase the diameter so that it could hold a Model M space bar. I think i have a picture around here ...
[attach=1]
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 22 December 2013, 19:14:32
Post by: codyeatworld on Sun, 22 December 2013, 19:20:35
I'm probably gonna split the right shift too.
Post by: Aer Fixus on Sun, 22 December 2013, 20:56:10
So did anybody else not get a stabilizer bar with their kishsaver? Rather than searching for a stabilizer, I might just pop a 1.75 unit key on the board.
Mine only came with one stabilizer in the backspace.
I'm probably gonna split the right shift too.
If you have the original (Model F) keys, you can make your own stabilizers with the right gauge wire (about 1mm diameter) and there shouldn't be any issues.
Post by: wcass on Tue, 31 December 2013, 15:23:24
Post by: Game Theory on Tue, 31 December 2013, 15:50:16
Post by: Aer Fixus on Tue, 31 December 2013, 16:19:26
I was originally expecting that the new controller would require replacing the existing controller chip with a Teensy, but whatever controller gets made, I suppose I'll have to use.
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 31 December 2013, 18:34:27
Post by: Aer Fixus on Tue, 31 December 2013, 23:41:21
I would prefer a PCB kit. I think it would be cool if the new controller PCB was made in the style of older electronics, with wide, curvy traces and only through hole components. :)idea i;
i = jdcarpe.idea.getIdea();
i++;
That'd be really cool. Personally, I like reusing old components when I can. Having the original circuit board with new parts placed into old holes would be a wonderful combination of new and old technology. The next best thing would be a kit that mimics the older style like jd said.
Post by: wcass on Wed, 01 January 2014, 00:17:43
But the only working KishSaver controller that i know of is based on dfj's work - about 50 components packed into 10 square inches. I will be starting a new thread on that soon. I just wanted to do an interest check to see if a group buy would fly and what would fly best.
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 01 January 2014, 18:14:01
http://www.cfcpowdercoating.com/
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
Post by: E TwentyNine on Wed, 01 January 2014, 18:33:24
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
They're two piece and you get the cap and stem. I recall someone mentioning at one point it was a crapshoot whether you got two or one piece when you bought a keyboard from them, but for custom caps I've always only seen two piece where you get both. Could be worth mentioning when you place the order.
Post by: Aer Fixus on Wed, 01 January 2014, 18:56:15
I am not going to do this until we actually get them working but I found a local place that I might use for media blasting and then powder coating my kishsaver back to its former glory. They seem to do projects of any size so they could probably do it at a good price. If I am happy with them I will surely use them for more projects in the future :)
http://www.cfcpowdercoating.com/
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
Can they replicate the texture? Also, it would be really cool if you made an Industrial Kishsaver. If I get a second, I really want to do that and get a repro silver on black square aluminum IBM badge to put on the upper right corner.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 01 January 2014, 19:21:00
I would prefer a PCB kit. I think it would be cool if the new controller PCB was made in the style of older electronics, with wide, curvy traces and only through hole components. :)
I agree with all of this. I like the idea of soldering it myself and that styling would be splendid. :)
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 01 January 2014, 19:46:49
"With an ever-expanding array of colors, textures and techniques, we can provide the finish you desire."I am not going to do this until we actually get them working but I found a local place that I might use for media blasting and then powder coating my kishsaver back to its former glory. They seem to do projects of any size so they could probably do it at a good price. If I am happy with them I will surely use them for more projects in the future :)
http://www.cfcpowdercoating.com/
I still need to order replacement keycaps from unicomp, does anyone know if their custom keycaps come with the bottom half or is it just the tiny top part?
Can they replicate the texture? Also, it would be really cool if you made an Industrial Kishsaver. If I get a second, I really want to do that and get a repro silver on black square aluminum IBM badge to put on the upper right corner.
I am going to say they probably can, this texture isn't something hard to replicate. I am not going to bother contacting them and asking just yet since I really don't need to.
Post by: The_Beast on Wed, 01 January 2014, 21:57:26
Man I can't wait to get some printed caps made up, the controller to be done, refinish the case (I'm thinking powder coat industrial gray) and painting the inner plate (I'm thinking flat black like OEM or maybe a dark purple.
Post by: Photoelectric on Wed, 01 January 2014, 22:00:31
Post by: HAL9000 on Tue, 14 January 2014, 12:15:28
[attachimg=1]
PD1 (Tab), CapsLock & LeftShift are original all other keys are from unicomp
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 14 January 2014, 12:17:09
This is mine, all I need now is a controller to get it working on PS/2 or USB
(Attachment Link)
Whoa, I really like those 1-0 caps with the function number printed on the front.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Tue, 14 January 2014, 12:48:59
This is mine, all I need now is a controller to get it working on PS/2 or USB
(Attachment Link)
Whoa, I really like those 1-0 caps with the function number printed on the front.
Apparently, Unicomp is stocking those, which is a surprise considering a buckling spring without function keys only exists in custom mod or kishsaver form, both of which are not very common.
I should have bought a set when I ordered a barrel plate this weekend. Dagnabit.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 28 January 2014, 22:40:13
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/12200379924_d8e74f13fc.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99522542@N03/12200379924/)
Kishsaver (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99522542@N03/12200379924/) by HoffmanMyster (http://www.flickr.com/people/99522542@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: tricheboars on Wed, 05 February 2014, 11:48:05
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Post by: SpAmRaY on Wed, 05 February 2014, 11:51:11
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Tinlong found a bunch and sold them recently.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50475.0
Post by: tricheboars on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:00:48
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Tinlong found a bunch and sold them recently.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50475.0
Spam that thread makes me glad i didnt throw down for one. Tin seems to have really taken advantage of Deskthority and Geekhack on that buy.
Post by: 127001 on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:25:10
Spam that thread makes me glad i didnt throw down for one. Tin seems to have really taken advantage of Deskthority and Geekhack on that buy.
Not at all. He was able to source a large number of rare, near impossible to find, highly desirable keyboards and sold them to the communities at a VERY fair price (it's likely they'll never go for that again). The logistics may have been a bit complicated/messy but that was really destined to happen considering the product and the location.
I got one missing a large number of keys and kinda beat up after about a 2 month wait. Regardless, I couldn't be happier with the transaction.
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:38:23
where are you guys getting these? i've never see one for sale. also i bet these things are costly.
kishsaver is the only board to make ssk owners jelly.
Tinlong found a bunch and sold them recently.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50475.0
Spam that thread makes me glad i didnt throw down for one. Tin seems to have really taken advantage of Deskthority and Geekhack on that buy.
Being proxy for some european kishsaver and talking much to tinnie, I must say: No, he didn't.
Post by: Michael on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:41:42
(http://i.imgur.com/LMe6GMC.jpg)
Post by: SpAmRaY on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:42:21
My Kishsaver is currently being restored
Need a bottom shot :p
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:43:47
My Kishsaver is currently being restoredShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LMe6GMC.jpg)
Please tell me that is a real BS BroBot!
Post by: riotonthebay on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:44:16
My Kishsaver is currently being restoredShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/LMe6GMC.jpg)
I'm calling BS on this one.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:57:08
Also, bro, you need to try to make a BS brobot that is the exact color as ibm keycaps :)
Post by: riotonthebay on Thu, 06 February 2014, 12:58:52
Anyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I'm in favor of converting them.
I can't speak for the entire community, of course.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 06 February 2014, 13:00:07
I think everyone is, I meant if we were close to getting them converted or if it is still going to take awhile. :pAnyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I'm in favor of converting them.
I can't speak for the entire community, of course.
Post by: riotonthebay on Thu, 06 February 2014, 13:08:43
I think everyone is, I meant if we were close to getting them converted or if it is still going to take awhile. :pAnyone have any idea where we stand on converting them?
I'm in favor of converting them.
I can't speak for the entire community, of course.
Sorry, in real life everyone knows to assume that I'm being sarcastic 90% of the time, but that's of course more difficult to convey in the written word ;)
Post by: ninjadoc on Thu, 06 February 2014, 17:21:11
I too have talked to Tinlong on line quite a bit. He made little if any on the Kshsavers and gave us all an opportunity to buy a rare keyboard. He may not be the quickest to ship but when you are in school your hours don't always coincide with the businesses that provide shipping. He doesn't always get a fair shake with everything he does and he didn't take advantage of anyone.
Post by: wcass on Thu, 06 February 2014, 18:07:27
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52922
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 06 February 2014, 18:08:18
EDIT: wcass, that is great news, I cannot wait.
Post by: wcass on Mon, 10 February 2014, 19:41:18
Comments?
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 10 February 2014, 19:50:31
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.I was initially thinking I wanted to go 100% original for keys and layout, as in trying to get the PD keys I am missing and everything but now I think I want to convert it to standard ANSI normal keycaps. I was also thinking I might get it powder coated again at a local shop if they are cheap enough. If not then I will try to get a bit of touch up paint that I think would match and fix the chipped paint on mine.
Comments?
I would be scared to spray paint it myself and expect a good texture to it, and I have painted a couple keyboards so far, none aluminum/metal though.
That layout is interesting though, arrows and all.
Post by: riotonthebay on Mon, 10 February 2014, 19:52:32
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
I'd be concerned with having Fn on the same hand as Ctrl/Windows/Alt because I think it will limit your ability to chord easily, especially anything that is Ctrl + anything on the function later.
Post by: wcass on Mon, 10 February 2014, 20:18:07
I'd be concerned with having Fn on the same hand as Ctrl/Windows/Alt because I think it will limit your ability to chord easily, especially anything that is Ctrl + anything on the function later.I don't think I use any Win or Ctrl+Fn layer combos (am I forgetting something?). I use Alt+F4 a fair amount, though. It looks odd, but it is easy enough for me to type with thumb, pinky, and index. But this might be a good time to try out Space Function.
I'm considering adding a pin hole in the case for caps lock LED. What do you guys think?
Post by: jdcarpe on Mon, 10 February 2014, 20:19:43
I'm considering adding a pin hole in the case for caps lock LED. What do you guys think?
Sounds brilliant to me. :thumb:
Post by: riotonthebay on Mon, 10 February 2014, 20:20:02
I don't think I use any Win or Ctrl+Fn layer combos (am I forgetting something?).
I'm currently using a 40% board, so I might just be in the mindset of ****ing everything being on the function later ;)
Post by: CPTBadAss on Mon, 10 February 2014, 20:25:34
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
Huh I like that layout but I don't like the 1x Delete/Backspace. I think if I were using that layout, I'm swap |\ for the backspace like the HHKB delete.
I've also been thinking I might get this board powdercoated black.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Mon, 10 February 2014, 20:42:32
So I'm thinking about how I want my KS to look when it is functional; key cap color, case color, key layout. I am thinking of going with traditional ivory/pebble caps and oil-rubbed-bronze for the case. The paint stripper will take off all of the texture, so I might go with the "hammered" type paint. For key layout, I think I will put Esc at the top left and split the backspace to make room for grave/tilde and delete (I work in Windows). I will also split the right shift (arrow cluster), but join the two keys above for a standard ANSI Enter. Caps Lock will be a Fn key.
Comments?
Interesting. I did not even have plans to mod the board. If anything, I would replace that short left shift and maybe put in an ISO enter. I have grown to prefer the ISO layout, except for that pesky left shift.
On the other hand, that ISO key next to the left shift could make a great FN key.
Post by: wcass on Mon, 10 February 2014, 21:07:59
Huh I like that layout but I don't like the 1x Delete/Backspace. I think if I were using that layout, I'm swap |\ for the backspace like the HHKB delete.HHKB backspace was my first thought (I even have a 1.5 backspace printed). Then I realized that it would be complicated to do Ctrl+Alt+Del without a dedicated delete key. I like the idea of making backspace easier to reach, and what is easier to reach than the space bar? So backspace became Fn+space. I tried to make the second layer so intuitive that second legends would not be needed.
I've also been thinking I might get this board powdercoated black.
Post by: Charizard^ on Tue, 11 February 2014, 00:21:11
Post by: Aer Fixus on Tue, 11 February 2014, 04:01:53
What are the P/N's for the Kishsaver, certainly there is more than one?
6019284 is the P/N for these Kishsavers that were found.
This is the doc of all known serial numbers for the 4704 keyboards. The 62 key is the Kishsaver. People here, including myself have looked far and wide for Kishsavers before the "group buy":
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmX2RHh7e1HxdEFkc29RRjU1RUdDVGdFc1pEdU1kTFE&usp=sharing#gid=2 (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmX2RHh7e1HxdEFkc29RRjU1RUdDVGdFc1pEdU1kTFE&usp=sharing#gid=2)
I've already done the research and the only listing that I found for a Kishsaver is on overstockedcomputer.com: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52281.0 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52281.0)
You can go ahead and try again, but I've searched every serial number and Google hasn't turned up a hint for any of them except for Geek Hack threads and that listing.
Post by: sleepy916 on Wed, 12 February 2014, 18:32:40
(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 12 February 2014, 18:34:59
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Nice, awesome click clack as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
Post by: Charizard^ on Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:12:52
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
Where did you get this guy? It looks awesome, especially with that Clack. :thumb:
Post by: smknjoe on Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:19:08
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:23:51
EDIT: It's about 14" by 7"
(http://i.imgur.com/2QgUXq4.jpg)
Post by: wcass on Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:18:42
[attach=1]
Since Hasu released his converter code, i have been thinking of where i could put a Teensy inside the case. It occurred to me that the sound board was level and close to the case seam. This daughter card is sandwiched between 5 pins and the top rim of a cutout. Interestingly, the thickness of the metal at the seam ... much thicker on the bottom than on the top.
[attach=2][attach=3]
The soundboard is about 4mm too low to be ideal, so i stuck the Teensy on with a blob of hot glue. By the way, hot glue looses it's adhesion when exposed to isopropyl alcohol, so i'm not worried about damaging either part.
[attach=4][attach=5]
I will need to trim the metal a bit for proper fit.
[attach=6][attach=7]
Post by: AKIMbO on Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:27:05
Post by: The_Beast on Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:27:54
So I stripped my Kishsaver naked. Here's a picture of her topless.
(Attachment Link)
Since Hasu released his converter code, i have been thinking of where i could put a Teensy inside the case. It occurred to me that the sound board was level and close to the case seam. This daughter card is sandwiched between 5 pins and the top rim of a cutout. Interestingly, the thickness of the metal at the seam ... much thicker on the bottom than on the top.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
The soundboard is about 4mm too low to be ideal, so i stuck the Teensy on with a blob of hot glue. By the way, hot glue looses it's adhesion when exposed to isopropyl alcohol, so i'm not worried about damaging either part.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I will need to trim the metal a bit for proper fit.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Looks amazing!
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:32:48
Is both the top and bottom of the chasis metal?Yes
Post by: wcass on Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:41:19
Post by: AKIMbO on Sat, 15 February 2014, 20:07:29
Post by: riotonthebay on Sat, 15 February 2014, 20:10:06
I regret not getting a Kishsaver from tin more and more everyday. T_T
QFT
Post by: sleepy916 on Sat, 15 February 2014, 22:10:12
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.Nice, awesome click clack as well :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sTn1VVV.jpg)
Thanks!
@wcass - That thing looks awesome stripped down.
Post by: Monster-Toys on Fri, 21 February 2014, 09:39:20
here is my Kish:
[attachimg=1]
Good
- It is a KISHSAVER
- It IS a Kishsaver
- All Keys were there :D... some now changed to qwerz-layout. Also the right shift key had the Word "Shift" imprinted and i changed it to a blank one. Can someone tell me which one would be authentic?
- IT IS A KISHSAVER
(sorry for beeing loud)
Not so good
- I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint.
Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
- Heavy dent on the bottom - not a drama but also not great :-\
- Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
- Broken plastic on connector. Please PM me if you have a connector in better condition that you do/will not need when the converter will be ready.
What to do:
- further cleaning the shell (as soon as i find a way) or a complete repaint
- tinker a spacebar-wire-thing
- repaint the barrel plate (It is in good condition but for a very small rust spot)
- change 2 springs (do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?)
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 21 February 2014, 09:48:23
Time for me to drop in :)
here is my Kish:
(Attachment Link)
Good
- It is a KISHSAVER
- It IS a Kishsaver
- All Keys were there :D... some now changed to qwerz-layout. Also the right shift key had the Word "Shift" imprinted and i changed it to a blank one. Can someone tell me which one would be authentic?
- IT IS A KISHSAVER
(sorry for beeing loud)
Not so good
- I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint.
Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
- Heavy dent on the bottom - not a drama but also not great :-\
- Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
- Broken plastic on connector. Please PM me if you have a connector in better condition that you do/will not need when the converter will be ready.
What to do:
- further cleaning the shell (as soon as i find a way) or a complete repaint
- tinker a spacebar-wire-thing
- repaint the barrel plate (It is in good condition but for a very small rust spot)
- change 2 springs (do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?)
Welcome to GH! Nice to see you around here. :)
snoopy
Post by: Monster-Toys on Fri, 21 February 2014, 10:07:19
Welcome to GH! Nice to see you around here. :)
snoopy
Thank you. :D... that maybe amplifies my chance to get a good-condition-connector.
Will it be sort of double post to post the same post at DT?
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 21 February 2014, 11:31:46
1) I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint. Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
2) Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
3) Do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?
1) You can try isopropyl alcohol and perhaps hot water/soap. Make sure you dry well after cleaning it though or else it will rust. Also something like WD40 might help to lift the stains.
2) You can powdercoat it. wcass had his stripped of paint and might know how to get the paintjob back to original condition.
3) They should be, yes.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 February 2014, 15:37:20
If I take the stabilizer bar from my model m and put it in the kishsaver, the spacebar just get stuck once it is depressed. Why is this?
Next on the list is getting a bunch of those stabilizer plastic inserts so I can convert this to a standard ANSI layout with model m keycaps. All my keycaps need replaced tbh. It has a mix between the stock, single piece keycaps that came with it from the start, and the rest are model m 2 part keycaps. Most if not all of the stock keycaps are dented really bad.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:30:49
So, about my spacebar, I need help obtaining a proper metal stabilizer bar.
If I take the stabilizer bar from my model m and put it in the kishsaver, the spacebar just get stuck once it is depressed. Why is this?
I am not the expert on this, but I believe the stabilizer wires are slightly different sizes. I think I read that somewhere but I can't remember where. Perhaps someone can confirm.
Next on the list is getting a bunch of those stabilizer plastic inserts so I can convert this to a standard ANSI layout with model m keycaps. All my keycaps need replaced tbh. It has a mix between the stock, single piece keycaps that came with it from the start, and the rest are model m 2 part keycaps. Most if not all of the stock keycaps are dented really bad.
Both the plastic inserts and a fresh set of keycaps can be bought from Unicomp. Keycaps here (http://pckeyboard.com/page/Buttons/PSET) and you may have to contact them for the stabilizer inserts - I know people have bought them, but I don't know how to go about doing that. (You may have known this but were just posting to tell us what you're doing. In that case, I've provided the info for anyone else who's curious. :) )
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:33:00
do you want a "standard" F stabilizer that fits a F spacebar or a M/F stabilizer (connects an M spacebar to an F body)?
Either way, I can make you a stabelizer. PM me your address.
I've ordered inserts from Unicomp ... let me find my notes ...
OK - for inserts, what you want to order is
PRK Single Unit Key - Buckling Spring - printed
under "characters" type something like "4 horizontal inserts"
And if anyone wants a custom full set, open a support ticket with Unicomp and send an image of what key layout you want. You should then be able to order the set by doing something like this:
CPSET Custom Printed Buckling Spring Button Set Comments: layout per support ticket #xxxx
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:47:01
PM incoming, thanks :)
Also, if/when I get this powder coated, how do you think I should go about getting this sticker off? The writing on it is really faint by now but I still like it, it says it was made in 83, I don't know what the orange sticker is for though.
(http://i.imgur.com/AxX8zad.jpg)
stupid images rotating all the time when I upload them..
The bar with the stabilizer wire on it is from my model m, this spacebar looks identical so I guess it's a model m one as well, right? Model f spacebars are different I think.
(http://i.imgur.com/vLeq0Lr.jpg)
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:57:21
Post by: Aer Fixus on Thu, 27 February 2014, 17:04:20
I guess M bar to F body would be the best because I can get a brand new spacebar from unicomp in that case, my spacebar is so dirty.
PM incoming, thanks :)
Also, if/when I get this powder coated, how do you think I should go about getting this sticker off? The writing on it is really faint by now but I still like it, it says it was made in 83, I don't know what the orange sticker is for though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AxX8zad.jpg)
stupid images rotating all the time when I upload them..
The bar with the stabilizer wire on it is from my model m, this spacebar looks identical so I guess it's a model m one as well, right? Model f spacebars are different I think.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vLeq0Lr.jpg)
The space bar on top is definitely a Model M spacebar. I have comparison between the M and F spacebar in this album most of the way down: http://imgur.com/a/HuLNV (http://imgur.com/a/HuLNV)
You will need to do one fo the following:
1. get a converter wire that fits the F body and M bar
2. modify the Kishsaver to take Model M spacebars (a permanent modification)
3. get a Model F spacebar and stabilizer. The ones from a F122 work, but a spare one is just as rare as a Kishsaver...
I've made working converter wires, but my solution was not optimal. I epoxied two different size of wire together and it works fine it just takes a lot of work to get it right and doesn't look very elegant.
A better option might just be to use the Model F thickness of wire and put ordinary scotch/thin tape around the wire where it needs to fit the model M bar.
There also was someone who said that they could print some spacers to fit a Model F sized wire into a Model M spacebar. That would be optimal instead of using tape or trying to find a metal tube of the perfect thickness.
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 18:57:26
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 19:13:31
Again, if anyone wants one of these (or anything else that fits) on gold foil, PM me your postal address, text, and font choice.
[attach=1]
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 27 February 2014, 19:31:57
The label that i am printing for myself will look like this. I might put the IBM logo or buckling spring graphic on the right side - i haven't decided. The dot matrix font is the closest i could find. If anyone out there wants to volunteer to make a better match to IBM dot matrix, please let me know.
Again, if anyone wants one of these (or anything else that fits) on gold foil, PM me your postal address, text, and font choice.
(Attachment Link)
I use this (http://www.mcmaster.com/#89085k84/=qvrrcu) stainless wire and this (http://www.mcmaster.com/#8988k38/=qvrr80) stainless tube. The wire is enough to do 25 and each foot of tube enough to do 6, so i have quite a bit extra. I'm not going to charge anything for this because it's not costing me anything. I use a Vice Grips and channel lock pliers to do the bending. I keep saying that i will do a video. One day.
Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :(.
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:00:04
I just whipped these up. What do you guys think looks better, the plain one in the earlier post or one of these?
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:02:50
Post by: Aer Fixus on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:15:38
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:18:29
I like the IBM logo
Ditto. Would pay money for one. :)
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:39:20
One more idea for your consideration. I can print grayscale ...
[attach=1]
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:50:07
...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
I dropped my KS on a scanner and grabbed a high res image - then played with the color/contrast. Below is before and after.
[attach=1]
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:07:16
I sort of did that with mine, took a picture and then turned up the contrast as high as possible. I'll PM you about a sticker I guess :)...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
I dropped my KS on a scanner and grabbed a high res image - then played with the color/contrast. Below is before and after.
(Attachment Link)
I can't decide between the two IBM mockups ones you have, but count me in.
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:12:29
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:24:02
I think I would like the IBM logo small and in the top right corner, as in your scan there. Can you do mine like that?Ditto, that is what I want.
Post by: wcass on Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:36:34
[attach=1]
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:38:21
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 27 February 2014, 23:00:06
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 28 February 2014, 01:41:46
like this?
(Attachment Link)
Looks great. :)
Post by: rindorbrot on Sat, 01 March 2014, 08:29:18
I went for the Industrial-look.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0HMEzRUVyzs/UwOlZduFd6I/AAAAAAAAC_8/wiwpzeAg2Cs/w1278-h946-no/IMG_20140218_191948.jpg)
Post by: mashby on Sat, 01 March 2014, 08:33:31
This is my Kishsaver.
I went for the Industrial-look.Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0HMEzRUVyzs/UwOlZduFd6I/AAAAAAAAC_8/wiwpzeAg2Cs/w1278-h946-no/IMG_20140218_191948.jpg)
Looks great! It's so clean!
Other than scrubbing it down, did you paint the case, or anything else special?
Post by: rindorbrot on Sat, 01 March 2014, 09:34:15
Other than that I only did the ISO-Layout and used a Teensy with hasu's code to make it usable ;)
Post by: riotonthebay on Sat, 01 March 2014, 09:43:35
Post by: mashby on Sat, 01 March 2014, 12:52:02
like this?
(Attachment Link)
I like all your designs wcass, but I think this one is my favorite.
Post by: wcass on Sat, 01 March 2014, 23:41:40
I also have 8 label requests. Everyone likes the stock label from post 134.
Post by: mashby on Wed, 05 March 2014, 16:57:52
(http://l.mashby.com/UGOf+)
ID NO. 472X-41-08879
MODEL 200
PART NO. 6019284
DATE OF MFG. 26-1983
MADE IN USA BY IBM
ARMONK, NY
Post by: wcass on Wed, 05 March 2014, 18:31:26
http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo (http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo)
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 05 March 2014, 19:03:09
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.I wouldn't have ever thought of doing that(wire tubing on thinner wire). Thank you for making these. :thumb:
http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo (http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 05 March 2014, 19:11:14
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.
http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo (http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo)
Very cool! Thanks for sharing that. :) You've got quite the system there.
Post by: dgreekstallion on Thu, 06 March 2014, 19:11:50
Post by: wcass on Fri, 07 March 2014, 20:39:28
Please check that you are on the list and that i copied your data correctly. Let me know if i need to change anything before i print (would like to do that Monday). There is room for 5 more.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 08 March 2014, 16:26:00
My to do list for this is large, I was planning on contacting the local powder coating place I wanted to use but their website it down, so that is going to have to wait.
I took it completely apart today, partly because my Q key was acting up and I am going to see what was wrong, when I press it, it makes this odd sound, first 3 presses are a normal switch, and the last 3 are the Q key. What could be wrong?
https://soundcloud.com/user343835333/kishsaver-spring-problem
My PCB is dusty, anything I should know about cleaning this thing? Proper way of doing it?
(http://i.imgur.com/odI14jN.jpg)
And my plate is not bad at all, it has very minor rust on it but I might paint it anyway.
I am still not 100% on if I want to convert it to ansi or keep it original, I need to make that decision when I get keycaps but I can't decide what I want to do.
Is this board going to need desoldered when we install the new controllers? I am thinking so.
(http://i.imgur.com/jToeJgJ.jpg)
Also, noob question I suppose, what is this thing?
(http://i.imgur.com/1QFjEvx.jpg)
Post by: Parak on Sat, 08 March 2014, 17:15:44
I took it completely apart today, partly because my Q key was acting up and I am going to see what was wrong, when I press it, it makes this odd sound, first 3 presses are a normal switch, and the last 3 are the Q key. What could be wrong?
https://soundcloud.com/user343835333/kishsaver-spring-problem
That can happen if the barrel/flippy/sping/key are somehow not seated correctly. It may be that the barrel is too loose due to insufficient foam, or that the flippy is out of alignment, or that the spring is not inserted on the flippy fully, etc.
My PCB is dusty, anything I should know about cleaning this thing? Proper way of doing it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/odI14jN.jpg)
I just use isopropyl, just be careful of any exposed traces - those are not common, but should be protected with some clear nail polish on a budget, or chemtronics overcoat if not.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 08 March 2014, 17:53:16
As for the barrels and springs, any ibm experts want to shed light on why the barrels are labeled G(random #) and the springs are labeled (random #)E? Some of them have the same numbers, but most dont, I was just interested in finding out.
Post by: wcass on Sun, 09 March 2014, 23:37:48
[attach=1]
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 18 March 2014, 12:18:29
I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
I'd like a label. I'll post a picture of my sticker later today if that works for you wcass?
Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :(.
And is my request part of the 16 you spoke of earlier? I'd still really like an adapter. :D
Post by: mashby on Tue, 18 March 2014, 12:30:35
I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
Looks awesome!
Post by: wcass on Tue, 18 March 2014, 20:43:29
Sorry CPT. I lost you in the mix. I would be happy to send you a PDF with embedded fonts of your label that you can print yourself on a label sheet. You can order a single sheet of label from www.labelsbythesheet.com (http://www.labelsbythesheet.com) for about $5 including delivery. this (http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/foil-labels/silver-water-resist-poly-full-sheet-laser-labels/list.htm) looks just like the stock silver label.I tweaked the label slightly. Replaced the dot matrix font with one I made and made the logo slightly larger. Both changes to more closely match the original. I have not printed them on the label stock yet, but it should look like the picture below. I still have three more spots is anyone wants one.
(Attachment Link)
I'd like a label. I'll post a picture of my sticker later today if that works for you wcass?Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :( .
And is my request part of the 16 you spoke of earlier? I'd still really like an adapter. :D
Rant at USPS hidden below.
More
I used all of the 15th to print the labels, box everything up, and get it mailed out. I wanted to reduce the chance that a label or stabilizer would get bent in shipping to as close to zero as possible, so I put everything in plastic RAM boxes and put those into 15 cardboard boxes. I took it down to the post office and the lady at the desk said, "you can't use those boxes!"
See i had cut up some Priority Mail boxes to make my boxes - which is a mortal sin apparently. She would not accept them as they were. So I spend another couple of hours Sunday wrapping the 15 packages like Christmas presents making sure that no one can tell what the box is made of. On Monday I stop at the PO on my way to work - it is the same woman behind the desk, but i feel confident that the boxes can not be identified. Ah, but she knows that i just wrapped the same boxes i had before, so she again refuses to accept the boxes.
I told all this to my wife and she has graciously volunteered to take the boxes to a different post office tomorrow. She is handicapped, so it is very much an inconvenience for her, but hopefully it will improve the chance that these will be accepted for delivery.
See i had cut up some Priority Mail boxes to make my boxes - which is a mortal sin apparently. She would not accept them as they were. So I spend another couple of hours Sunday wrapping the 15 packages like Christmas presents making sure that no one can tell what the box is made of. On Monday I stop at the PO on my way to work - it is the same woman behind the desk, but i feel confident that the boxes can not be identified. Ah, but she knows that i just wrapped the same boxes i had before, so she again refuses to accept the boxes.
I told all this to my wife and she has graciously volunteered to take the boxes to a different post office tomorrow. She is handicapped, so it is very much an inconvenience for her, but hopefully it will improve the chance that these will be accepted for delivery.
The same goes for anyone that wants a label (I make replicas of other labels too). I'ld be happy to do the art, but would prefer you do the actual printing.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 18 March 2014, 21:20:07
Post by: wcass on Tue, 18 March 2014, 22:46:18
[attach=1]
Post by: Photoelectric on Tue, 18 March 2014, 23:17:21
Post by: wcass on Wed, 19 March 2014, 11:46:18
[attach=2]
I use a slightly different "clamp" than other folks to hold the plates together ...
[attach=1]
They clamp tight enough to keep the plates together, but loose enough to allow the front and back to slide easily. If you try this, I would suggest using electrical tape inside the "jaws" to prevent scratches.
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 19 March 2014, 12:34:47
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 20 March 2014, 09:25:12
Post by: wcass on Sun, 23 March 2014, 09:56:22
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 23 March 2014, 11:06:57
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Post by: Michael on Sun, 23 March 2014, 11:29:13
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
I plan to have it sand blasted off. It's a lot cleaner than most methods. Also, depending on the grain you use, it leaves a nice texture (if you like that) for the new paint. Also, less chance to damage the case.
Post by: samwisekoi on Sun, 23 March 2014, 11:58:45
However, if a Club Member hears of a way I could gain one and join, I would be very grateful. And I have many interesting things to be grateful with!
Anyhow, please accept my application to be a Kishsaver Club "Member in Waiting".
- Ron | samwisekoi
p.s. jdcarpe, if you are serious, I am interested!
Post by: wcass on Sun, 23 March 2014, 13:20:57
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Great to hear.
I stripped paint using stuff i got at the Home Depot; Klean Strip Premium Stripper 15 minute paste, 1" plastic paint scraper, 1" chip brush. The paint came off very easy. I was tempted to just clear-coat it - the bare metal looked so nice.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 23 March 2014, 15:44:53
Label arrived Saturday. Looks great. Thank, wcass.
On another note, for case re-painting, did anybody just paint over the existing paint? Or did you scrape off the existing paint, and then add another layer? I'm wondering how hard it will be to scrape off all the existing paint, and maybe what I could use to do so.
Great to hear.
I stripped paint using stuff i got at the Home Depot; Klean Strip Premium Stripper 15 minute paste, 1" plastic paint scraper, 1" chip brush. The paint came off very easy. I was tempted to just clear-coat it - the bare metal looked so nice.
Thanks. That does not sound too complex, but could get messy. Sandblasting would be ideal, but getting access to one is a bit of a difficulty.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 23 March 2014, 20:01:19
Now to get this case repainted and everything cleaned up!
Post by: wcass on Mon, 24 March 2014, 16:35:19
[attach=2]
[attach=1]
Post by: Photoelectric on Mon, 24 March 2014, 16:41:07
Post by: Air tree on Mon, 24 March 2014, 16:42:03
Post by: tbc on Tue, 25 March 2014, 01:05:19
Post by: mashby on Tue, 25 March 2014, 16:00:45
*Ahem* err.. I mean, well done sir. Very well done and thank you for making these for us.
(http://l.mashby.com/abm9+)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 25 March 2014, 16:03:38
FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT'S HOLY, WCASS!!!!!! :eek: THESE STICKERS LOOK AMAZING :eek:
*Ahem* err.. I mean, well done sir. Very well done and thank you for making these for us.Show Image(http://l.mashby.com/abm9+)
My thoughts exactly!! I was expecting a single gold sticker, not silver + gold & IBM logos! wcass went above and beyond the call of duty, by far.
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 25 March 2014, 16:14:44
Post by: Michael on Tue, 25 March 2014, 16:19:00
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 25 March 2014, 16:25:22
There's one in classifieds :Psamwisekoi might be interested :)
:( because you are getting rid of yours though
Post by: wcass on Tue, 25 March 2014, 18:37:03
Quote
... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
Making these really was a lot of fun for me.
Post by: sleepy916 on Tue, 25 March 2014, 18:49:49
Post by: E TwentyNine on Tue, 25 March 2014, 18:50:02
I guess you missed the late night TV infomercial.Quote... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
Making these really was a lot of fun for me.
The generosity on your part is absolutely awesome. I don't even have a Kishsaver but was entertaining to see the reactions of those who do.
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 25 March 2014, 18:51:19
I guess you missed the late night TV infomercial.Sounds about right, once I saw mashbys post I had to run to the mailbox :PQuote... but wait. If you act now, I'll triple your order. Not only will you get the super amazing Kishsaver label in luxurious polished gold with painstakingly recreated font and logos - but also two additional labels; one in high reflectivity polished silver and the other in water resistant brushed silver. AND IF YOU ACT NOW - I'll throw in FOUR logo stickers at NO ADDITIONAL COST!
Making these really was a lot of fun for me.
The brushed one is so sexy.
Post by: Monster-Toys on Tue, 25 March 2014, 20:31:06
Has anyone done a 3D model of the rubber feet or that plastic spacer between the top cover and key assembly?
I could make them tomorrow if you want (with autocad and or inventor, accurate to ca. 0,3 mm) but i only have an educational licences (what should be ok, because it is not for commercial use). Just let me know (and what is the prefered file-format).
Post by: tinlong117 on Wed, 26 March 2014, 09:30:58
Post by: ComradeSniper on Thu, 27 March 2014, 18:25:37
I need one :'(
Post by: Pacifist on Thu, 27 March 2014, 18:27:39
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
I need one :'(
$159 i think
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 March 2014, 18:30:11
Post by: Photoelectric on Thu, 27 March 2014, 18:36:46
About 150 after all the shipping and such. A steal imo.
I should have joined :( Stupid finances made me hesitate.
Post by: tinlong117 on Thu, 27 March 2014, 21:44:44
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
I need one :'(
80+35+shippping in the states.
About 150 after all the shipping and such. A steal imo.
Yet someone still said I taken advantage.
I will give you one if I can be your bf. :eek:
I should have joined :( Stupid finances made me hesitate.
Post by: Pacifist on Thu, 27 March 2014, 21:58:35
Post by: Michael on Thu, 27 March 2014, 22:01:04
tinnie don't you already have a gf?
(http://i.imgur.com/ElHKnIc.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 27 March 2014, 22:03:35
Palmela Handersontinnie don't you already have a gf?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ElHKnIc.jpg)
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 27 March 2014, 22:47:34
Post by: jwaz on Thu, 27 March 2014, 22:53:12
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
80+35+shippping in the states.
Weird... they seem to be much more expensive in the classifieds these days...
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 27 March 2014, 22:59:55
Just out of curiosity, how much did these originally sell for (from tinlong)?
80+35+shippping in the states.
Shipping in the states was about $18.
Post by: HPE1000 on Fri, 28 March 2014, 10:34:24
How close are the converters to being done btw?
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 28 March 2014, 10:36:20
Everybody seems to be selling theirs, is there something I don't know about? :-X
How close are the converters to being done btw?
People are just needing money, and have too many projects I think.
There is a working converter, but the replacement controller is still being tested.
Post by: riotonthebay on Fri, 28 March 2014, 10:36:27
Everybody seems to be selling theirs, is there something I don't know about? :-X
How close are the converters to being done btw?
Just a chain reaction :). One person sells because they realize they don't have time for it, then someone else realizes they're in the same boat, etc.
Post by: MOZ on Fri, 28 March 2014, 10:54:23
Post by: BunnyLake on Fri, 28 March 2014, 10:57:32
riot is right, I think many of us jumped at the occasion when tinlong sold them, however after receiving them and having it for a couple of months the realizing that we just don't time.
im similar to that, even if i found time to get it up and going, id never use it, but was too cool of an opportunity not to jump on
Post by: MOZ on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:02:18
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:04:42
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:19:38
My 6019284 isn't going anywhere. Staying with me for a long long time :D.
What if someone offered you one meeeelion dollars for it? Just kidding. If I had one I would keep it too.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:20:26
My 6019284 isn't going anywhere. Staying with me for a long long time :D.
What if someone offered you one meeeelion dollars for it? Just kidding. If I had one I would keep it too.
Then I'd take that one million dollars, buy another 6019284, and pocket the remaining money. Then I'd be rich and still have my keyboard :D
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:28:39
Post by: jdcarpe on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:34:19
Good point! But technically you'd then have someone else's keyboard... And what if it wasn't as good as the original? You'd only have $999,800 or so to console yourself with.
LOL
I love it when people say that something isn't for sale. It just means they haven't been offered the right price. Basically, everything is for sale, it's just a matter of finding an amount that is so ridiculously attractive to the owner that they are finally willing to part with their precious item.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 28 March 2014, 11:37:21
I love it when people say that something isn't for sale. It just means they haven't been offered the right price. Basically, everything is for sale, it's just a matter of finding an amount that is so ridiculously attractive to the owner that they are finally willing to part with their precious item.
You can't buy me keyboard man!
More
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 28 March 2014, 12:11:34
Post by: Monster-Toys on Fri, 28 March 2014, 14:25:39
They can have your kishsaver when they pry it from underneath your cold, dead fingers!
LET HIM HAVE IT! >:D ;D
Post by: wcass on Fri, 28 March 2014, 20:06:14
Actually that sounds like it would be a good forum channel here ... "Project of the Month".
Post by: MOZ on Sat, 29 March 2014, 01:18:15
But I'm in India, so shipping would have killed it anyways.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 01 April 2014, 08:03:59
(http://i.imgur.com/RsdFgG1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Ff1AHYi.jpg)
Post by: rowdy on Wed, 02 April 2014, 04:29:25
Just wanted to say that I got wcass' wire adapter for the spacebar yesterday. Now I can use my Model M set on the 6019284! Works great and the wire fits perfectly. Thanks again wcass. :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/RsdFgG1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ff1AHYi.jpg)
That is extremely neatly done! Impressed!
Post by: josh on Tue, 08 April 2014, 19:26:05
Post by: sleepy916 on Tue, 13 May 2014, 22:30:25
Post by: wcass on Sun, 18 May 2014, 15:39:24
Short story - new rubber feet. I'm getting info on costs now.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58437.msg1334238#msg1334238
Post by: sleepy916 on Sun, 18 May 2014, 20:35:53
(http://i.imgur.com/cQPWeQG.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7lMMprs.jpg)
Faces blocked out for privacy of course... ^-^
Post by: wcass on Sun, 18 May 2014, 21:57:35
- print out the attached template at 100% on legal paper (just a few cents at the office supply store).
- check measurements are accurate. if too small/big, adjust scale and re-print.
- stick thin double-sided tape on the back - just outside the boarder.
- unroll new foam material on top so that it sticks to the tape.
- use dies/mallet to punch out the holes.
- use a razor to cut the slots.
- use scissors to cut the boarder.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k102/=s0yd5e
I got my die set from HF. They go on sale from time-to-time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html
Some folks punch a single big hole that goes around the notch. I prefer to make two punches. Ether way will work. My template for the KS is below. TBH, i have not used this specific template myself (my foam was in like-new condition) so double check the positions. I have templates for the AT and 122 also; PM me if you need one.
Post by: sleepy916 on Sun, 18 May 2014, 23:24:24
How i make replacement foam ...For foam material i use 1/16 neoprene from McMaster. It compresses easily to .5mm and is cheap.
- print out the attached template at 100% on legal paper (just a few cents at the office supply store).
- check measurements are accurate. if too small/big, adjust scale and re-print.
- stick thin double-sided tape on the back - just outside the boarder.
- unroll new foam material on top so that it sticks to the tape.
- use dies/mallet to punch out the holes.
- use a razor to cut the slots.
- use scissors to cut the boarder.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k102/=s0yd5e
I got my die set from HF. They go on sale from time-to-time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html
Some folks punch a single big hole that goes around the notch. I prefer to make two punches. Ether way will work. My template for the KS is below. TBH, i have not used this specific template myself (my foam was in like-new condition) so double check the positions. I have templates for the AT and 122 also; PM me if you need one.
I've done it a few times with my ATs and 122. I do most of what you said except the template, I just spray like that then punch the holes out where it is painted. This will be a lot easier, it is just so small!
Post by: snoopy on Sat, 24 May 2014, 07:35:53
thanks
Post by: Monster-Toys on Sat, 31 May 2014, 14:33:32
BtW... i am still searching for a kishsaver connector (that plastic-chunk at the end of the cable) ... somebody wants to get rid of it now that a controllerboard is in reach?
Post by: vivalarevolución on Thu, 05 June 2014, 07:48:12
Maybe the case is a Zinc-Aluminum blend (Zamak) but it is a unconfirmed rumor^^.
BtW... i am still searching for a kishsaver connector (that plastic-chunk at the end of the cable) ... somebody wants to get rid of it now that a controllerboard is in reach?
I probably will offload my connector once I get the controller. I have not use for it when the controller arrives. Actually, I have no use for it now. I am sure that a more dedicated collector with appreciated it more than me.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 05 June 2014, 11:53:06
Post by: mashby on Thu, 05 June 2014, 12:22:45
OK kids. I got a hold of the powdercoater who did the Panavises (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51148.msg1229409#msg1229409) to look at powdercoating the 6019284s. Does anyone want to powdercoat their board? What color? I'm thinking industrial grey or charcoal grey. And of course purple. But if we're going to GB it, I'll have to compromise.
I would be interested in getting mine painted. Might even go for purple. :cool:
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 05 June 2014, 12:58:42
Any idea what it would cost?
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 05 June 2014, 13:00:29
Post by: jdcarpe on Thu, 05 June 2014, 13:36:05
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 05 June 2014, 13:38:45
I forgot that was an option. OMG. One way or another, I'm getting that color for my board.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 05 June 2014, 15:04:20
Post by: Parak on Thu, 05 June 2014, 15:27:19
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 05 June 2014, 15:28:17
Edit: The powdercoater can do either solvent bath or sandblasting to remove the paint before powdercoating a new color on. I need to find out how it would work if I run a GB. I'm pretty sure, based on my panavise experience, that it needs to be one color for everyone.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 05 June 2014, 16:30:02
Post by: dorkvader on Thu, 05 June 2014, 18:18:17
OK kids. I got a hold of the powdercoater who did the Panavises (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51148.msg1229409#msg1229409) to look at powdercoating the 6019284s. Does anyone want to powdercoat their board? What color? I'm thinking industrial grey or charcoal grey. And of course purple. But if we're going to GB it, I'll have to compromise.
I'd go for grey for sure.
EDIT: nevermind, going to sandblast it (and the beamspring) tomorrow then clearcoat. I'm still interested, but pending sandblasting result.
Post by: riotonthebay on Thu, 05 June 2014, 18:35:54
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 05 June 2014, 18:37:48
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 06 June 2014, 01:08:15
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 06 June 2014, 08:58:01
Can we get a link or explanation on what jdcarpurple is? I have no idea what you guys are talking about. :confused:
(http://i.imgur.com/OjQMJlb.jpg)
Jdcarpe had his...Poker (I think?) powdercoated in this lovely glittery purple color. I've wanted it for a long time but accidently forgot about it until now. He calls it "jdcarpurple".
Post by: mashby on Fri, 06 June 2014, 12:30:10
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 06 June 2014, 23:36:52
Can we get a link or explanation on what jdcarpurple is? I have no idea what you guys are talking about. :confused:
Jdcarpe had his...Poker (I think?) powdercoated in this lovely glittery purple color. I've wanted it for a long time but accidently forgot about it until now. He calls it "jdcarpurple".
Howwwwwwww did I miss this... It's lovely... :'(
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 08 June 2014, 10:32:34
[attach=1][attach=2]
[attach=3]
Post by: absyrd on Sun, 08 June 2014, 10:35:32
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I love that look, scratches and all.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 08 June 2014, 10:52:56
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I love that look, scratches and all.
Thanks. I should clarify that part of the reason I did this is because my spray-painting skills suck and this was sort of a risk-free option.
Post by: sleepy916 on Wed, 11 June 2014, 20:50:33
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 11 June 2014, 20:55:18
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 11 June 2014, 21:03:13
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Damn, now that is attractive. (All of the paint jobs shown so far are, for that matter. I think it's hard to make this keyboard look bad.)
Post by: vivalarevolución on Thu, 12 June 2014, 09:53:10
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
I had some difficulty with sanding in one direction on the thinner sides on the top part of the case, but I think that is a reflection of my poor sanding skills. I think the biggest thing to be careful of is not gouging the metal with the paint chipper. I was a little aggressive with removing the paint.
Post by: wcass on Thu, 12 June 2014, 17:55:12
A mold for feet. You can see how rough the texture is here. I plan to use automobile wax as a surface smother and mold release agent.
[attach=1]
And plastic spacers. I'm going to keep them installed for a while and will give you all notice when/if I notice that they break.
[attach=2]
Thanks again to Monster-Toys for the 3D models.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 12 June 2014, 18:30:16
Post by: vivalarevolución on Thu, 12 June 2014, 18:50:23
If the feet require a higher quality, higher priced alternative, I am not opposed to paying the higher costs, whatever they may be.
Post by: Monster-Toys on Thu, 12 June 2014, 19:18:46
Post by: Parak on Fri, 13 June 2014, 11:01:42
I gave up on the spacers. The case is still tight without them and I have not noticed any problems. I think they mainly serve to line up the keyboard assembly with the case when you screw them together, but it seems the keyboard will be fine without them. The assembled keyboard is still tight and sturdy during use without the spacers.
The spacers are actually there to make sure that there isn't too much pressure on the top plate. If you notice, the curve of the case actually presses into the top plate as it's screwed in, so there's a risk of damage to barrels or pcb if it's screwed down too much.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 13 June 2014, 11:11:47
I gave up on the spacers. The case is still tight without them and I have not noticed any problems. I think they mainly serve to line up the keyboard assembly with the case when you screw them together, but it seems the keyboard will be fine without them. The assembled keyboard is still tight and sturdy during use without the spacers.
The spacers are actually there to make sure that there isn't too much pressure on the top plate. If you notice, the curve of the case actually presses into the top plate as it's screwed in, so there's a risk of damage to barrels or pcb if it's screwed down too much.
Interesting. I may fashion some sort of temporary replacement with some firm foam in the meantime just as a precautionary measure.
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:32:21
Okay, now I need to convert this to HHKB layout. Things that need to change:
split left shift => full size
full size right shift => short right shfit + fn
split enter => full size
backspace => split
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Post by: jwaz on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:35:10
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
ermahgerd you guys quit copying my idea.
If only I wasn't so lazy. :blank:
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:38:07
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
Post by: Puddsy on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:39:32
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:41:26
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 17 June 2014, 12:42:18
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
Yup, you got it.
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 13:54:18
Post by: MTManiac on Tue, 17 June 2014, 17:11:08
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
I don't want to let the hammer drop let alone multiple hammers?!? where do I find this video?
Post by: sleepy916 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 17:53:43
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good, I'm doing the same thing. But I'm going to try to sand it in one direction to get that brushed metal look.
ermahgerd you guys quit copying my idea.
If only I wasn't so lazy. :blank:
That is why you bought me a drink! to steal my kish ideas.. :))
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 17 June 2014, 18:47:07
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 17 June 2014, 18:49:12
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I actually did it earlier today and it wasn't so bad :). I just gave everything a thorough cleaning. Some of the hammers aren't seated quite right and don't click correctly though, but I'll fix that when I take it apart again to install my controller when it arrives.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 17 June 2014, 18:53:58
I believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I actually did it earlier today and it wasn't so bad :). I just gave everything a thorough cleaning. Some of the hammers aren't seated quite right and don't click correctly though, but I'll fix that when I take it apart again to install my controller when it arrives.
Oh, nice. :) Also, you probably already realized this, but just in case not: I had a bunch of trouble getting the caps to seat on the springs properly. I basically had to have the board propped up at a 90 degree angle, on its back, to get the springs to "relax" so as to allow me to put the caps on the right way. Without doing that, they wouldn't click, or really work at all. Maybe that's causing it? If not, then yeah you'll have to re-seat them. :)
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 17 June 2014, 19:05:19
MoreI believe all this is possible but I don't know how to get started. Can someone point me towards a good resource?
Step 1) Unscrew the screws to separate the the case halves.
Step 2) Remove the back and unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate/hammers/caps to the top of the case
Step 3) Remove the screw holding on the PCBs at the top
Step 4) Carefully bend the tab near the screw that holds in the PCB
Step 5) Remove the plate/hammers/caps assembly
From here it's a bit tricky. I couldn't remove the plate from the assembly without a hammer so I couldn't do what phosphorglow shows in his video. He removes the plate then tapes the hammers on a piece of tape, one per row, so the hammers don't all fall out. I did it the hard way. Put the assembly on the side, got the plate off, then all the hammers fell out and it was a PITA to reseat them all. You can try putting the assembly face down, removing the plate, and then taping the hammers them pulling them out. Watch his video if you're not sure what I'm talking about.
Once the plate is removed, you can move the hammers around to accomidate the layout you would like. When you're done, do everything in reverse. It's not too hard. If you don't drop all the hammers out, it's a fairly quick mod.
If you have more questions, I can take pictures.
So, to summarize: Don't drop the hammers. Move some of the around.
Got it :thumb:
TBH, I modified my layout (removed a few hammers and did something similar to what you're doing - turned it into a more standard layout), and it was actually quite simple. If you just remember to always keep it upside down so you don't lose hammers you should be good.
Actually, I'll be taking mine apart soon to clean glass shards out of it, so if you think you would benefit from a video I'd be happy to put something together.
I actually did it earlier today and it wasn't so bad :). I just gave everything a thorough cleaning. Some of the hammers aren't seated quite right and don't click correctly though, but I'll fix that when I take it apart again to install my controller when it arrives.
Oh, nice. :) Also, you probably already realized this, but just in case not: I had a bunch of trouble getting the caps to seat on the springs properly. I basically had to have the board propped up at a 90 degree angle, on its back, to get the springs to "relax" so as to allow me to put the caps on the right way. Without doing that, they wouldn't click, or really work at all. Maybe that's causing it? If not, then yeah you'll have to re-seat them. :)
I appreciate the tips :). I happened to know that one already and I think that the hammers aren't seated quite right, but I'll make sure first.
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 19:12:01
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 17 June 2014, 19:20:32
So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 20:10:43
Wow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 20:15:05
It's a bit painful after you figure in powder coating, new keycaps, and a controller for it. :-XWow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Although I doubt everyone is going to powder coat theirs as well as replace the keycaps.
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 20:17:02
Yeah, a Kishsaver would definitely be an "all in" project.It's a bit painful after you figure in powder coating, new keycaps, and a controller for it. :-XWow that's not even that bad :)So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
Although I doubt everyone is going to powder coat theirs as well as replace the keycaps.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 17 June 2014, 20:37:10
So much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
It was $84 for the board and $36.50 for shipping from HK. Then $17.30 for shipping within CONUS from me to the buyer.
This is the phosphorglow video I was referring to (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54190.msg1213641#msg1213641).
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 17 June 2014, 20:38:08
Even better ;DSo much did you guys have to shell out for yours?
I think it was on the order of $130 to get the board sent to CPTBadAss, and then another $17 or so from him to me. But the first number (the important one, I know :P ) is a guess as I can't find the paypal transaction to confirm it. :-X
It was $84 for the board and $36.50 for shipping from HK. Then $17.30 for shipping within CONUS from me to the buyer.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Tue, 17 June 2014, 22:19:48
Personally, I value mine much more than I would any Korean custom.
Post by: newchemicals on Thu, 19 June 2014, 01:18:42
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Now that is how I would like my keyboard to look like. Very sweet looking prdlm. :thumb:
Post by: phosphorglow on Thu, 19 June 2014, 12:25:55
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That is absolutely gorgeous!!!
Post by: riotonthebay on Sat, 12 July 2014, 10:33:00
(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Post by: mashby on Sat, 12 July 2014, 12:12:47
Post by: riotonthebay on Sat, 12 July 2014, 12:20:12
There's a few things that need to be changed/fixed still:
- The flippers on 8* and a need to be replaced.
- The right shift is sitting funny. Not totally sure what to do to fix that.
- I'm also not entirely sure how the spacebar is supposed to be stabilized. The wire is thicker than can fit in the inserts that are already in the plate – are other people making their own inserts or doing something else entirely?
- Unicomp's dyesub QC is really bad. I ordered an APL set and one of the 1.5u Alt and 1.5u Ctrl were aligned very poorly. I asked for replacements, specifying '1.5unit "Alt" from APL set' and '1.5unit "Ctrl" from APL set' and I received the Option/Alt key pictured and a "Control" key :|. Also the alignment on the Ctrl in the caps lock position is messed up.
All that said, I'm typing on a living dinosaur :D
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sat, 12 July 2014, 16:58:30
Thanks mashby :)
There's a few things that need to be changed/fixed still:
- The flippers on 8* and a need to be replaced.
- The right shift is sitting funny. Not totally sure what to do to fix that.
- I'm also not entirely sure how the spacebar is supposed to be stabilized. The wire is thicker than can fit in the inserts that are already in the plate – are other people making their own inserts or doing something else entirely?
- Unicomp's dyesub QC is really bad. I ordered an APL set and one of the 1.5u Alt and 1.5u Ctrl were aligned very poorly. I asked for replacements, specifying '1.5unit "Alt" from APL set' and '1.5unit "Ctrl" from APL set' and I received the Option/Alt key pictured and a "Control" key :|. Also the alignment on the Ctrl in the caps lock position is messed up.
All that said, I'm typing on a living dinosaur :D
I believe this thread has some information on how to make custom wire atabilizers for the Model F. Wcass made a bunch for Kishsaver owners. He com led some thin wire with metal tubing so a Model M spacebar could work with Model F inserts.
Post by: wcass on Sun, 13 July 2014, 00:35:01
...If you re-used the insert that came from an ISO Enter or num pad Enter, then you are using a vertical insert (hole is off center) - you want to use a horizontal insert (hole is on center).
- The right shift is sitting funny. Not totally sure what to do to fix that.
Quote
- I'm also not entirely sure how the spacebar is supposed to be stabilized. The wire is thicker than can fit in the inserts that are already in the plate – are other people making their own inserts or doing something else entirely?That sounds like you got a Model M space bar; these need a stabilizer wire replacement to function properly. At least one other KS came with an M space bar, so you are not alone. I'm out of stainless steel tubing at the moment, but will get some the next time I order from McMaster. PM me your address and i will send one to you.
Quote
APL != Apple
- Unicomp's dyesub QC is really bad. I ordered an APL set and one of the 1.5u Alt and 1.5u Ctrl were aligned very poorly. I asked for replacements, specifying '1.5unit "Alt" from APL set' and '1.5unit "Ctrl" from APL set' and I received the Option/Alt key pictured and a "Control" key :|
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 13 July 2014, 03:07:00
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Call me strange, but I prefer the full touch keys, like Alt and Ctrl. Exception permitted for Caps Lock, except you have Ctrl on there, ;D
Post by: vivalarevolución on Sun, 13 July 2014, 06:44:57
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Call me strange, but I prefer the full touch keys, like Alt and Ctrl. Exception permitted for Caps Lock, except you have Ctrl on there, ;D
You're strange.
Post by: sleepy916 on Sun, 13 July 2014, 22:36:53
From this:
(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:
(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 13 July 2014, 23:01:40
Has anyone ordered a pack of 3 PCBs from oshpark yet?
Post by: mashby on Mon, 14 July 2014, 10:06:22
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 14 July 2014, 11:46:37
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.
(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Post by: vivalarevolución on Mon, 14 July 2014, 13:47:40
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Did you use any other tools to remove the paint, like a paint scraper and such?
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 14 July 2014, 15:46:55
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Did you use any other tools to remove the paint, like a paint scraper and such?
After you spray the paint remover, the paint gets a bubbly and is easy to remove. But I used an old box cutter to scrape off the paint. It didn't scratch the metal too much. I used the right end piece in the picture where it is rounded. I'm sure you can use pretty much anything, the paint comes off really easy.
(http://www.boxpartners.com/Images/ProductImages/3603_xl.jpg)
Post by: mashby on Mon, 14 July 2014, 15:51:44
Post by: MTManiac on Wed, 16 July 2014, 09:29:49
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
That is freaking awesome!
I knew there had to be an easier way than sanding the poor bugger!
(I'm totally adding this to my shopping list)
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 16 July 2014, 11:39:58
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Techno Trousers on Wed, 16 July 2014, 11:47:18
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 16 July 2014, 11:59:43
You got two! And going for the Darth Vader look? Do you have white on black caps to complete it?
one will become blank black keycaps... the other one... i don't know yet.
btw, it looks black on the pics. But it is a dark grey. :)
Post by: dustinhxc on Wed, 16 July 2014, 12:08:21
Potato, toe for scaleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aCbHxPZ.jpg)
Pretty sure this is the cleanest case I've ever seen very nice bro!
Post by: JPG on Wed, 16 July 2014, 12:10:33
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
Just WOW!
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 16 July 2014, 12:17:48
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
Sexy time. Looking forward to the final product. You've got a nice BS Clack collection too for that little extra touch on top of the case and whatever keycaps you use :D.
Post by: MTManiac on Wed, 16 July 2014, 12:43:40
wonder if they have jdcarpurple :cool:
Post by: vivalarevolución on Wed, 16 July 2014, 16:27:33
Just the top half, it still needs some work. The bottom half still has a lot of spaces I need to get to.
From this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OdoqShT.jpg)
To this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PmbyIKe.jpg)
Looks great Sleepy! What did you use to remove the paint?
I used this, it has worked really well.Show Image(http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/71282100/Aircraft-Paint-Remover-Flexible-Plastic-Aerosol.jpg)
Did you use any other tools to remove the paint, like a paint scraper and such?
After you spray the paint remover, the paint gets a bubbly and is easy to remove. But I used an old box cutter to scrape off the paint. It didn't scratch the metal too much. I used the right end piece in the picture where it is rounded. I'm sure you can use pretty much anything, the paint comes off really easy.Show Image(http://www.boxpartners.com/Images/ProductImages/3603_xl.jpg)
Awesome. The paint remover and scraper that I used required a lot of elbow grease, and I wondered how you were able to remove the paint so cleanly without any deep scratches.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Wed, 16 July 2014, 16:28:17
just have to post this pic also here ;D
(Attachment Link)
Gorgeous.
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 11 August 2014, 20:05:27
I am ordering the following items, tell me if I am grabbing the right stuff.
101 Pearl/Pebble Set
Large Pearl Spacebar
2 Unprinted Pebble 1x Keys
(http://i.imgur.com/euNviHE.png)
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 11 August 2014, 21:09:11
(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Post by: Vibex on Mon, 11 August 2014, 21:09:59
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!**** this is gonna look awesome! :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Post by: CPTBadAss on Mon, 11 August 2014, 22:06:08
Post by: mashby on Tue, 12 August 2014, 10:33:10
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks fantastic sleepy!
Post by: vivalarevolución on Tue, 12 August 2014, 14:20:07
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks pretty darn good.
Post by: wcass on Tue, 12 August 2014, 19:02:05
Ok, I am probably going to throw in an order to unicomp in the next few days to get keycaps for this thing. I am converting it to a standard layout and I was wondering, how many little stabilizer inserts am I going to need in total?There are two types of inserts; "horizontal" (for backspace, ANSI enter, left ANSI shift, right shift, keypad 0) and "vertical" (for ISO enter, keypad +, keypad enter). "Horizontal" inserts have the hole centered; "vertical" inserts have the hole off-center. You will probably want a total of 4 "horizontal" inserts.
I am ordering the following items, tell me if I am grabbing the right stuff.
101 Pearl/Pebble Set
Large Pearl Spacebar
2 Unprinted Pebble 1x KeysShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/euNviHE.png)
And you might want to order some of the GeekHack single unit keys instead of blanks. Or maybe something else off this page:
http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE (http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE)
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 12 August 2014, 19:24:30
Ok, so I should throw in my order and ask for 4 horizonal stabilizer inserts? I will tell them which keys I am using them on just so they know what I mean. (Backspace, Both Shift Keys, and Enter Key)Ok, I am probably going to throw in an order to unicomp in the next few days to get keycaps for this thing. I am converting it to a standard layout and I was wondering, how many little stabilizer inserts am I going to need in total?There are two types of inserts; "horizontal" (for backspace, ANSI enter, left ANSI shift, right shift, keypad 0) and "vertical" (for ISO enter, keypad +, keypad enter). "Horizontal" inserts have the hole centered; "vertical" inserts have the hole off-center. You will probably want a total of 4 "horizontal" inserts.
I am ordering the following items, tell me if I am grabbing the right stuff.
101 Pearl/Pebble Set
Large Pearl Spacebar
2 Unprinted Pebble 1x KeysShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/euNviHE.png)
And you might want to order some of the GeekHack single unit keys instead of blanks. Or maybe something else off this page:
http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE (http://pckeyboard.com/page/category/SBLE)
But outside of that my keycap selection is correct?
I will throw in some geekhack keys with it as well, I forgot about that :D
Thanks :thumb:
Once I get the inserts in and put it back together I don't need to take it apart again, for when I install a new controller, right? I am not looking to build a controller just yet but I want to at the very least get it put together again, since I am worried about messing up the foam sheet while it is taken apart.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 12 August 2014, 19:41:56
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 12 August 2014, 20:00:12
Nice :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
I guess I am going to get in on the next round of the controllers, I can't wait any longer lol
Post by: sleepy916 on Wed, 13 August 2014, 01:37:31
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!**** this is gonna look awesome! :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks fantastic sleepy!
I am just about done with all the sanding on the case. There are small imperfections but trying to get a brush aluminum look will have those. Now to try to get a clear coat on bare metal. I hope it works!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2aBSbfI.jpg)
Looks pretty darn good.
Thanks guys! I was originally going to just have the bare metal plate too but there were so many rust spots I just painted it flat black. I'll have pictures up after I get the clear on the case. I made the new rubber mat too, so it is almost done. Just waiting on the controller.
Post by: clacktalk on Wed, 13 August 2014, 01:40:10
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
i wet my pants : ' ]
Post by: rowdy on Wed, 13 August 2014, 05:55:29
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
i wet my pants : ' ]
I cried.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 14 August 2014, 08:42:48
Hopefully unicomp can get me replacement keycaps, I think I might have talked to them before and the only thing they couldn't do it have the raised up bottom row keys, they will just be uniform height, which is ok to me.
Post by: terrpn on Thu, 14 August 2014, 08:52:24
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TCQNujz.jpg)
This xpost though (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33569.msg1434291#msg1434291)
(http://mugsysrapsheet.com/4blog/Beck_crying.jpg)
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 14 August 2014, 11:02:47
Hopefully unicomp can get me replacement keycaps, I think I might have talked to them before and the only thing they couldn't do it have the raised up bottom row keys, they will just be uniform height, which is ok to me.
Are your bottom row keys really a different height? Mine are uniform, but they sit higher than on MX and other boards because of IBM's sweet curved plates.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 14 August 2014, 11:10:39
By that I mean they are taller in the middle than the sides, like a stepped caps lock but on both sides of the cap.Hopefully unicomp can get me replacement keycaps, I think I might have talked to them before and the only thing they couldn't do it have the raised up bottom row keys, they will just be uniform height, which is ok to me.
Are your bottom row keys really a different height? Mine are uniform, but they sit higher than on MX and other boards because of IBM's sweet curved plates.
Look at my ALT keys, those are the only 2 original keys from the bottom row, the control key on the bottom right should be just like the alt key (Raised in the middle) and it should also say Enter on it, not ALT. The keycaps on this keyboard for a lot of people who got them aren't all original, they were just thrown on there to cover the keyboard.
(http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d6/d6394552_DSC_0640.jpeg)
Post by: wcass on Thu, 14 August 2014, 11:42:23
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 14 August 2014, 11:47:45
By that I mean they are taller in the middle than the sides, like a stepped caps lock but on both sides of the cap.
Are your bottom row keys really a different height? Mine are uniform, but they sit higher than on MX and other boards because of IBM's sweet curved plates.
Okay, I get what you mean. I always mentally associate those unnecessarily stepped keys with the XT keyboard and its awful layout. You may be able to get near-equivalent replacements from one of them.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 14 August 2014, 12:43:37
I'm sure some folks here are using new caps and could hook you up. I ordered a new set of caps, but I've decided on using a mix of new and old (pictured in post 169 of this thread). I'll have to check if I have the caps you are looking for.That sounds good, I am okay not having the bottom row being 100% accurate, but if anyone doesn't even want theirs I would gladly take them. I guess I will contact unicomp about a custom printed set today.
Post by: terrpn on Thu, 14 August 2014, 13:35:25
keep posting your pix and such :cool:
Post by: wcass on Thu, 14 August 2014, 17:33:33
[attachimg=2]
Post by: snoopy on Mon, 18 August 2014, 04:28:03
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
Post by: vivalarevolución on Mon, 18 August 2014, 09:25:14
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
I could sandwich it back together with my hands, no problem.
For foam, we had a couple long discussions on here and Deskthority about the best foam to use with Model F's. I found some 1/8 inch and 1/16 inch foams that worked well with the Model F's sold my McMaster Carr. Now since you are in Europe, McMaster Carr will not work for you, but I have some extra foam laying around that I can ship to you if you are interested.
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 18 August 2014, 09:53:44
Post by: vivalarevolución on Mon, 18 August 2014, 10:00:29
Unicomp quoted me 75 dollars for replacement kishsaver keycaps . . wut, they told me 40 just a couple months ago..
Probably depends on which customer service person that you talk to. You could easily just buy a printed 101 full set for $25 and use that for your Kishsaver. But if you want custom printed with the classic Kishsaver legends, I am sure that will increase the price.
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 18 August 2014, 23:14:46
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
It should be fairly easy because the kish is so small. You just have to put pressure where the tabs are to get them to lock in. Even the AT was not too bad. The 122 is no joke though, clamps or no deal!
Side note: I sprayed the clear coat on my bare metal kish and it looks good so far. I will let it dry before I try to see if it holding to the metal. No pictures because it was too dark by the time I finished.
Post by: The_Beast on Mon, 18 August 2014, 23:16:34
anybody got a hint for me for the foam? I tried 2mm 'Moosgummi', but I can't get the 'sandwich' back together.
Or any good tips for putting the sandwich together?
I've seen people use craft foam for a replacement. Pretty cheap and easily (maybe) found at a craft store.
Post by: sleepy916 on Wed, 20 August 2014, 22:13:14
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^
(http://i.imgur.com/pCOjhkA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RBK2mjN.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/pNzuckV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cZn1ElE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AWj7SEt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mFraH6z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Qo54Wgq.jpg)
Post by: Harrowed on Thu, 21 August 2014, 03:53:52
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.Very tasteful case modification. I like that look :thumb: Gives me ideas for my newly acquired XT...
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pCOjhkA.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RBK2mjN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pNzuckV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cZn1ElE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AWj7SEt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mFraH6z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Qo54Wgq.jpg)
Post by: dustinhxc on Thu, 21 August 2014, 05:14:51
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pCOjhkA.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RBK2mjN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pNzuckV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cZn1ElE.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AWj7SEt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mFraH6z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Qo54Wgq.jpg)
Wowsers man.. Brushed aluminum? Best case I've ever seen.. :thumb:
Post by: sleepy916 on Thu, 21 August 2014, 21:44:19
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.Very tasteful case modification. I like that look :thumb: Gives me ideas for my newly acquired XT...
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^
Ok I got to take some pictures of the case after the clear coat. It definitely less shine but has a nice feel to it now. Not nearly as smooth but more of a matte feel.
I'm thrilled with how it turned out and hopefully it holds up to use well. I'll put it all together over the weekend and just wait for the controller.
Warning: a bunch of pictures coming up. ^-^
Wowsers man.. Brushed aluminum? Best case I've ever seen.. :thumb:
Thanks guys, it definitely was a labor of love. I want to do the 50 key the same way but will hold off for a little while. ^-^
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 24 August 2014, 14:13:55
[attachimg=1]
more and better pics soon
Post by: sleepy916 on Sun, 24 August 2014, 14:24:29
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Oh you're fancy. :cool:
Post by: dustinhxc on Sun, 24 August 2014, 14:51:28
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Kickass!
Damn dude... Making me want to mosh even more!
*edit: a Kish* Mosh was too good had to leave it. Lol
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 24 August 2014, 19:27:05
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Kickass!
Damn dude... Making me want to mosh even more!
*edit: a Kish* Mosh was too good had to leave it. Lol
LOL, do you find yourself moshing at the computer quite often, dustin? :P Hehehe
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 24 August 2014, 19:41:03
Just desoldered my original controller, I am going to put this thing back together tonight. Need to wait to hear back from unicomp about the 75 dollar quote for keycaps... :(
(http://i.imgur.com/E3qX7UO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9LXyXcK.jpg)
[]D [] []V[] []D
(http://i.imgur.com/GrGKpZs.jpg)
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 24 August 2014, 19:44:10
circuit pr0n
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 24 August 2014, 20:02:11
mmmmmmmmmm:thumb:
circuit pr0n
Backlit pcb pr0n too ^-^
(http://i.imgur.com/jSO9vfe.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 25 August 2014, 18:29:16
I am wondering if they could bring the price down if a couple of us bought them, anyone down? (No promise they would, I would rather get a rough estimate before even asking)
Post by: jacobolus on Mon, 25 August 2014, 20:33:24
I don't know if anyone would be interested, or if unicomp would agree. But essentially they are telling me it's $75 for a custom printed setWhat kind of custom printing can they handle? How is the quality? Can you provide a vector design and get them to print it? Lots of the pictures of custom Unicomp keycaps I’ve seen have looked like total garbage. Is that just the fault of the buyer?
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 25 August 2014, 21:52:30
I don't know if anyone would be interested, or if unicomp would agree. But essentially they are telling me it's $75 for a custom printed setWhat kind of custom printing can they handle? How is the quality? Can you provide a vector design and get them to print it? Lots of the pictures of custom Unicomp keycaps I’ve seen have looked like total garbage. Is that just the fault of the buyer?
Some of their QA is less than stellar, in my experience. I purchased an APL set, and it looked like this (not *that* bad):
(http://i.imgur.com/behKZGH.jpg)
It's not awful by any means, but I was a little disappointed. The front legends on ; and ' are fading and the positioning of most of the orange legends is just a tiny bit off. I may be super nitpicky to point this out, but hey - I paid good money for the set, it should be good quality.
That said, I still love it and I still use it. :)) So it still is a good set. I just think it could be *better*.
This is only a comment on the quality of their work, I have no experience with your other questions.
Post by: jacobolus on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:22:03
Some of their QA is less than stellar, in my experience. I purchased an APL set, [...] That said, I still love it and I still use it. :)) So it still is a good set. I just think it could be *better*.Do you code in APL, or is this just for fun?
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Mon, 25 August 2014, 23:38:22
Some of their QA is less than stellar, in my experience. I purchased an APL set, [...] That said, I still love it and I still use it. :)) So it still is a good set. I just think it could be *better*.Do you code in APL, or is this just for fun?
Entirely for fun. I enjoy the way it looks and it's fun to have a different set than the default set.
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:24:18
(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:38:15
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
wow
Post by: Puddsy on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:44:09
my
Post by: Michael on Wed, 27 August 2014, 11:46:01
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
(http://i.imgur.com/R3u7MBx.gif)
Post by: tinlong117 on Wed, 27 August 2014, 12:37:22
Post by: vivalarevolución on Wed, 27 August 2014, 13:44:29
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
Hubba hubba.
Post by: Hypersphere on Wed, 27 August 2014, 13:54:04
Post by: Doyniish on Wed, 27 August 2014, 14:07:56
Post by: JPG on Wed, 27 August 2014, 14:27:53
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
You win the keyboard of the year prize with this one!
What a beauty :-*
Post by: sleepy916 on Fri, 29 August 2014, 16:08:01
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
I had to post even after recovering from jaw surgery because that kish is amazing! ^-^
Ok now back under the covers.
Post by: Rewind on Sat, 30 August 2014, 19:24:33
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
This is the perfect board. I don't even
Post by: naasfu on Sat, 30 August 2014, 20:24:59
some first impressions of my BlacKish:
damn, that's a really beautiful board. that powdercoated black case looks so slick.
Post by: dustinhxc on Sat, 30 August 2014, 21:11:02
BlacKish teaser
(Attachment Link)
more and better pics soon
Kickass!
Damn dude... Making me want to mosh even more!
*edit: a Kish* Mosh was too good had to leave it. Lol
LOL, do you find yourself moshing at the computer quite often, dustin? :P Hehehe
Hahaha occasionally.. ;D
some first impressions of my BlacKish:Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_033601kmw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0329ihkgw.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_03270jj3x.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0332ixj7m.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0333t2j07.jpg)Show Image(http://abload.de/img/img_0334xbj7m.jpg)
Ingredients:
- powdercoated RAL 7021 (case and plate)
- new foam
- xwhatsit Model F rev2 controller
- blank black unicomp keycaps
- depth black bs clickclack (finally it has a suitable home)
- wcass spacebar stabilizer
ToDo:
- floss mod
- new usb cable
Big thanks to tinnie, wcass, xwhatsit, monster-toys, and of course cc.
Damnnnn dude.............
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 31 August 2014, 09:55:30
Thanks for all the nice comments! :)
Post by: Karura on Sun, 31 August 2014, 15:34:48
Post by: dustinhxc on Sun, 31 August 2014, 16:00:05
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
Post by: Techno Trousers on Sun, 31 August 2014, 17:18:33
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sun, 31 August 2014, 17:24:53
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Post by: demik on Sun, 31 August 2014, 18:18:45
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
it's a secret society, all they ask is trust and within a week watch your desk freeze up
Post by: The_Beast on Sun, 31 August 2014, 18:33:42
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Yup, looked months and was willing to pay quite a bit of money. This is my end game board....
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
Post by: sleepy916 on Sun, 31 August 2014, 18:49:21
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Yup, looked months and was willing to pay quite a bit of money. This is my end game board....
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
Yup I regret not getting a second one when I could have. They are lovely. ^-^
Post by: dustinhxc on Sun, 31 August 2014, 21:59:37
How would one go about acquiring one of these? Loving my Model M SSK, and would like to join the club here :)
I was wondering the same thing.. Havent seen them anywhere but here and they go quick..
The thing is before tinlong found a bunch of them, there weren't supposed to be anymore. Think there were only 4-5 before tinlong's discovery late last year. Some people who were in that wave have sold theirs but there don't seem to be any others outside of the initial group of 4-5 and the tinlong's wave.
The_Beast and I spent a while trying to get a hold of one. Months. At this point though, I believe that only the classifieds will yield a 6019284. Don't think there's any others out there AFAIK.
Yup, looked months and was willing to pay quite a bit of money. This is my end game board....
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
Thanks for the information! IBM 6019284 :cool:
Post by: wcass on Sun, 31 August 2014, 22:53:28
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
Post by: The_Beast on Sun, 31 August 2014, 22:58:36
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
Since I have a tinsaver, I doubt anything will come of this, since I have what I really wanted. However, if for whatever reason the tinsaver just isn't up to par with end game, I'll keep you in mind for a baller ass custom 60% capacitive keyboard
Post by: vivalarevolución on Tue, 02 September 2014, 14:25:10
...I'ld be happy to help. I've done a bit of capacitive PCB design. I can't help much with a case design/production, though.
If I didn't find one, I had researched into making capacitive PCBs as well as designing a case for it. IE build a 60% capacitive keyboard from scratch
I think more than The Beast would be interested in such a thing.
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 08 September 2014, 01:03:01
I had a hell of time with the space bar stabilizer, I'm not sure why. :mad:
So bad lighting in the room and I'm not sure if I like it like this. But it's late, so it will have to do. ^-^
(http://i.imgur.com/qJhd5H8.jpg)
Post by: dustinhxc on Mon, 08 September 2014, 01:20:40
I've finally started to get some things done today, getting packages ready and I've still got to get an AT Model F ready for sale. But I did manage to make some time to put this together.
I had a hell of time with the space bar stabilizer, I'm not sure why. :mad:
So bad lighting in the room and I'm not sure if I like it like this. But it's late, so it will have to do. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qJhd5H8.jpg)
Dark and mysterious, very nice bro!
You shall have a nice addition to it soon! ;)
Post by: vivalarevolución on Tue, 09 September 2014, 05:45:40
I've finally started to get some things done today, getting packages ready and I've still got to get an AT Model F ready for sale. But I did manage to make some time to put this together.
I had a hell of time with the space bar stabilizer, I'm not sure why. :mad:
So bad lighting in the room and I'm not sure if I like it like this. But it's late, so it will have to do. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qJhd5H8.jpg)
Cool. What color are the alphanumeric keys? The lighting is rather poor, so I can't tell.
Post by: sleepy916 on Sat, 13 September 2014, 19:56:13
(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Post by: dustinhxc on Sat, 13 September 2014, 20:17:55
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Gorgeous board man!! That Checkey really hit the spot. :cool:
Post by: sleepy916 on Sat, 13 September 2014, 20:18:56
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Gorgeous board man!! That Checkey really hit the spot. :cool:
I forgot to thank you in this thread but I did in the clack thread! Thanks Dustin! It's never leaving my kish. :)
Post by: dustinhxc on Sat, 13 September 2014, 20:20:20
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
Gorgeous board man!! That Checkey really hit the spot. :cool:
I forgot to thank you in this thread but I did in the clack thread! Thanks Dustin! It's never leaving my kish. :)
Hey no problem bro! I knew it was made for you when I saw your board! ;)
Post by: terrpn on Sun, 14 September 2014, 15:17:04
Here is a better picture but it's in the shade too. The direct sunlight was too much.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ympSu0.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NGadM7Z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5MkROnX.jpg)
The Alphas are made from pewter, they are more of a brownish silver color than the case.
love it................that is what i call an "industrial keyboard"
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 17 September 2014, 10:53:54
Post by: Hypersphere on Wed, 17 September 2014, 11:00:43
Post by: BunnyLake on Wed, 17 September 2014, 11:01:23
No more members for this club? Where are all the kishsavers tinnie sold? I know there must be more people out there with a kish! Join us! :D
you scared everyone off, nobody can top yours
Post by: rowdy on Thu, 18 September 2014, 00:40:04
I'd love to join! Still looking for my first Kishsaver.... :(
Me too!
Although I think I'd prefer an SSK first :eek:
Post by: ComradeSniper on Thu, 18 September 2014, 23:11:49
More
(http://i.imgur.com/SSbeyK1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/06Ss1Qz.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wqXYjhM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XUmccEG.jpg)
This thing is seriously a behemoth.
(http://i.imgur.com/uxGQKOk.jpg)
Will take some better pics tomorrow, I'm just way too excited over finding these. ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/06Ss1Qz.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wqXYjhM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XUmccEG.jpg)
This thing is seriously a behemoth.
(http://i.imgur.com/uxGQKOk.jpg)
Will take some better pics tomorrow, I'm just way too excited over finding these. ;D
Post by: Techno Trousers on Thu, 18 September 2014, 23:15:41
Post by: The_Beast on Thu, 18 September 2014, 23:23:57
Holy smokes! How many did you get, and are you planning to share that wealth? I'd put in a reasonable bid for one.
Hurry! (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55819.msg1256696#msg1256696)
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 19 September 2014, 01:27:10
Already got some ideas for it. And thanks for the comparison pics. That thing is huge. :D
Post by: HPE1000 on Fri, 19 September 2014, 18:06:52
(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
Post by: dustinhxc on Fri, 19 September 2014, 18:23:37
Can I play too? :pMoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/SSbeyK1.jpg)
OMGGG its sooooooo long!! ;o
It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
Awe yeah, thats what Im talking about, nice and small! Very nice!
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 21 September 2014, 18:14:54
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 21 September 2014, 18:17:39
So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 21 September 2014, 18:22:16
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
Post by: The_Beast on Sun, 21 September 2014, 18:34:41
Tinsaver shot from my latest shoot.
Post by: dustinhxc on Sun, 21 September 2014, 19:00:55
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJDWc2L.jpg)
Tinsaver shot from my latest shoot.
Whoa, interesting legends man. :)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 21 September 2014, 19:02:14
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
Thanks. :) I'll take it apart again and see if I can get that fitted in there properly. Because according to you, the buzzer is the coolest thing evar. ;)
Post by: epzy on Sun, 21 September 2014, 19:02:46
It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
consider me jelly ^_^
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 21 September 2014, 19:29:09
I think so, worse case scenario you can just remove it or turn the volume dial all the way down and not use it. Be aware that you need to move around the wiring on the buzzer so it works on the kishsaver as shown in the manual and this link http://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/xwhatsit-s-grand-unified-ibm-capsense-usb-controller-thread-t7993-30.html#p163441Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.So I hooked up the buzzer to this keyboard now. My greatest fear now is that it will die some day, it makes the keyboard so much more fun to type on. If for whatever reason it were to randomly die one day, would there be any way of remaking one of these things or what?
Question! Did the mounting hardware interfere in any way with the position of the six-pin hookup? I can not physically hook up my buzzer to the board. :( Could you post some pics of the internals to show us?
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
Thanks. :) I'll take it apart again and see if I can get that fitted in there properly. Because according to you, the buzzer is the coolest thing evar. ;)
It's a little rough right now but hopefully one day it will be completely done. :)It livesssssss :))Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G8R2Sid.jpg)
consider me jelly ^_^
I put in an order for new keycaps from unicomp a couple days ago, hopefully they can recreate the original keycaps good enough, because it wasn't all that cheap.
Post by: The_Beast on Sun, 21 September 2014, 19:46:43
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YJDWc2L.jpg)
Tinsaver shot from my latest shoot.
Whoa, interesting legends man. :)
Yea, I think they're from a model M used at air ports and stuff. The caps are REALLY wore down compared to a fresh unicomp set.
It's a stark contrast to my OG APL, which looks like it's never been typed on.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Mon, 22 September 2014, 07:36:11
Yea, I think they're from a model M used at air ports and stuff. The caps are REALLY wore down compared to a fresh unicomp set.
It's a stark contrast to my OG APL, which looks like it's never been typed on.
I've got a set like that. The airport M caps? I actually love them because I like the smoothness of them. My caps live on my SSK.
Post by: The_Beast on Mon, 22 September 2014, 10:19:22
Yea, I think they're from a model M used at air ports and stuff. The caps are REALLY wore down compared to a fresh unicomp set.
It's a stark contrast to my OG APL, which looks like it's never been typed on.
I've got a set like that. The airport M caps? I actually love them because I like the smoothness of them. My caps live on my SSK.
Yea, mine have a nice shine even though they're PBT.
notevenmad.jpeg
Post by: Touch_It on Mon, 22 September 2014, 12:28:50
So I got around to stripping the paint off my Kishsaver, sanding it down, and spraying on a clearcoat. I probably will keep this bare metal look, even with some of deep scratches from the paint chipper and wire brush that I did not bother to remove. It will match all my kitchen appliances:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
OMG that looks freaking amazing. if i get my 107 key I'm totally copying this. I'm drooling so hard right now.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 24 September 2014, 17:52:54
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Post by: scubaste on Wed, 24 September 2014, 17:55:36
Post by: jacobolus on Wed, 24 September 2014, 18:16:26
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 25 September 2014, 11:23:09
Post by: jacobolus on Thu, 25 September 2014, 11:28:08
Post by: madhias on Thu, 25 September 2014, 12:32:39
Post by: jacobolus on Thu, 25 September 2014, 13:01:58
Post by: JPG on Thu, 25 September 2014, 13:06:21
New name for the 107-key: kishspender.
I am pretty sure that it cost much less making this awesome paint than many people spend on 1 cc.
This awesome paint is much more worth it (my opinion) and give a WOW effect to an already WOW keyboard.
Time to add cc's and Bro's and etc. to this keyboard now :p
Purple only for sure.
Post by: Binge on Thu, 25 September 2014, 13:09:37
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Saw some people on DT were very jelly of this badboy. I do not blame them.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 25 September 2014, 13:12:30
Post by: jacobolus on Thu, 25 September 2014, 13:13:03
I’m pretty sure we’re talking about different things here... The 107 key is the one with a 5x2 block on the left, and 5x3 and 5x4 blocks on the right. “Spender” is just the opposite of “saver”, this has nothing to do with cash.New name for the 107-key: kishspender.I am pretty sure that it cost much less making this awesome paint than many people spend on 1 cc.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 26 September 2014, 11:34:19
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Hawt.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:49:49
Post by: The_Beast on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:52:12
/me needs to make some moves and get his saver painted.
Painted or powder coated?
I think I'm going to get it powder coated and hopefully, it retains some of the original texture found in the paint.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:55:43
Hm, there's too much 6019284 info spread out so maybe someone can help me out. I saw that rindobrot (sp?) on Deskthority got his buzzer working with xwhatsit's controller. Has anyone tried that here? I'd like to get mine working as well.
I'm on mobile, so linking will be hard, but HPE has done this and actually linked me to a great source a few pages back I believe. You need to move a pin position or two on the connector, and then it's a simple setup.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:57:59
I'm on mobile, so linking will be hard, but HPE has done this and actually linked me to a great source a few pages back I believe. You need to move a pin position or two on the connector, and then it's a simple setup.
Do you mean the little black foot thing that attaches the plate to the pcb/backplate? I bent that down towards the backplate and the buzzer plug went in.
It seems exactly like how cpt plugged his into the controller. I do not know if he had to bend the little tab as well though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015622565/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/15015260262/
This picture? I'm not sure what you mean by pin position. I have mine plugged in as shown since that's my board. And yes I did have to bend that tab. But regardless, it doesn't buzz or beep so I was wondering what I was doing wrong.
Post by: Binge on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:58:38
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 08 October 2014, 11:59:40
Be aware that you need to move around the wiring on the buzzer so it works on the kishsaver as shown in the manual and this link http://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/xwhatsit-s-grand-unified-ibm-capsense-usb-controller-thread-t7993-30.html#p163441
This one.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 08 October 2014, 12:04:20
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 13:00:29
I recorded both without the buzzer on and with it on, so all of you who want to know how it sounds, and how loud it is, just adjust your sound from the first 10 or so seconds of the clip so you hear the video as loud as you hear the keyboard normally. (Hope that makes sense)
And before anyone asks, this is as loud as it goes, so you can turn the white dial on the buzzer down if you want the beeping but do not want it this loud.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 08 October 2014, 13:05:22
Post by: Elocutive on Wed, 08 October 2014, 17:49:02
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 18:44:15
LOL. That's amazing. So much beeping.It's so obnoxious in a good way ;)
Post by: tbc on Wed, 08 October 2014, 19:05:49
When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
it'd be a better use of effort to try and FIND a board for sale rather than trying to determine a fair price. but honestly, only a friend would sell you one (if that...).
Post by: Elocutive on Wed, 08 October 2014, 22:04:38
True. Been stalking a couple of threads over at Deskthority that have talked about finding 62 key "loud as hell" keyboards. Hopefully I can grab one of those.When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
it'd be a better use of effort to try and FIND a board for sale rather than trying to determine a fair price. but honestly, only a friend would sell you one (if that...).
Post by: Techno Trousers on Wed, 08 October 2014, 22:27:44
When is the last time one of these showed up and how much did it go for? I would love to get one, but I don't know how much I would have to pay.
Keep an eye on the classifieds here. There were three of them for sale at once several months back. I got mine in the low $200s, which I considered a good deal given its rarity. I'm finally going to be able to take a good chunk of vacation next month, so I'll be working on this and a couple of other keyboard mod projects I've had lined up for some time.
Post by: jacobolus on Wed, 08 October 2014, 22:37:19
I recorded both without the buzzer on and with it on [...]Now we just need a direct video comparison with a beam spring + solenoid. :-)More
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 22:48:43
I would love to, unfortunately I do not have one.I recorded both without the buzzer on and with it on [...]Now we just need a direct video comparison with a beam spring + solenoid. :-)More
Post by: demik on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:21:29
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:38:28
does the keyboard being flat not tire you out more?Not really, I am not a huge fan of keyboard feet in the first place.
Post by: demik on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:40:21
i like the buzzer!
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:46:22
ah, okay. thanks for answering.I am pretty terrible at typing so my opinions are probably not the best. I use my index finger for the spacebar and everything, I just suck. I should have u/HellPirate teach me his ways.
i like the buzzer!
Thanks though, I didn't even know what the buzzer was for the longest time. I was just looking at the instructions for the converter after I had the board built and realized it actually had a use.
Post by: demik on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:49:58
weirdo :P
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:52:35
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.
weirdo :P
Hey, we're people too!
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:52:40
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Edit: I think so :P
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:53:14
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
Post by: demik on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:53:57
to approve of things and to hit spacebars!!!
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:55:41
(http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dr-evil-right.gif)oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:56:53
oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
You know I love you, HPE... :'(
Why don't you love me back...
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 08 October 2014, 23:57:54
(http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dr-evil-crying1.gif)oh OH, you're one of those that doesn't use their thumb huh.I think hoffman said he doesn't either but I can't ever take him serious ^-^
weirdo :P
Whaaaaaa??? I'm totally serious all the time!
You know I love you, HPE... :'(
Why don't you love me back...
Post by: madhias on Thu, 09 October 2014, 05:28:34
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Saw some people on DT were very jelly of this badboy. I do not blame them.
Yep we are, and it's even in the rotating banners, seen right now again:
(http://www.dubhead.at/media/pics/DT_Header_Kishy.png)
Post by: dustinhxc on Thu, 09 October 2014, 05:38:25
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
You painted it purple!! Cute! Love it man.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Thu, 09 October 2014, 07:44:53
ah, okay. thanks for answering.
i like the buzzer!
I find that the BS boards are already so tall and then the caps add even more height so it being flat isn't really a bad thing. It's now my daily driver at home and I haven't had any fatigue issues.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15159170237_777a977b40.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cptbadass/sets/72157647589142718/)Show Image(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15345695975_f9a990fac9.jpg)Show Image(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/15345696925_a7436137a4.jpg)
Saw some people on DT were very jelly of this badboy. I do not blame them.
Yep we are, and it's even in the rotating banners, seen right now again:Show Image(http://www.dubhead.at/media/pics/DT_Header_Kishy.png)
Hehehehehe. My Little Kishsaver looks so good :D. And yes Dustin, I did have it painted purple and I love it <3.
Post by: 0100010 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 18:18:28
(http://s28.postimg.org/hhp111hsd/BS62.jpg)
Can't see the front function printing on the number row in this image. I also don't have a Kishsaver to put these on. :(
Post by: jacobolus on Thu, 09 October 2014, 18:46:10
This thread needs more Unix-y keys :Unfortunately you can’t put the right shift in that position on a kishsaver (or any standard Model F); you’ll need a custom plate and PCB if you want that arrangement.Show Image(http://s28.postimg.org/hhp111hsd/BS62.jpg)
Can't see the front function printing on the number row in this image. I also don't have a Kishsaver to put these on. :(
Post by: 0100010 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 18:54:27
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 18:57:08
Post by: 0100010 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 20:42:41
(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 20:50:56
The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 09 October 2014, 21:05:55
The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
And the left one too. You would need to swap the key size positions. So you can still use those two keys, just swapped.
Post by: HPE1000 on Thu, 09 October 2014, 21:09:21
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.The barrels under the right shift don't align that way.Ah, I guess it would work if the right barrel was a little bit more over to the right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3abKtVh.jpg)
And the left one too. You would need to swap the key size positions. So you can still use those two keys, just swapped.
Post by: jacobolus on Thu, 09 October 2014, 22:26:33
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.It can be easily split into two. It's just that the two it splits into push the shift key very far away, or leave you with a 1x1 size shift.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 10 October 2014, 12:25:17
I see now, I had just assumed it would have been the same as the left shift right enter key situation where they can easily be spit into 2.It can be easily split into two. It's just that the two it splits into push the shift key very far away, or leave you with a 1x1 size shift.
I was actually flirting with the idea of using a 1x shift on the right to give myself another function key. I think I usually hit the very left of those crazy long right shifts anyway, but it would definitely take some getting used to. Too bad it's so time consuming to reconfigure the Model F flippies.
Maybe I'll stick something on top of my F-122 right shift to block of all but that left 1x area, and see how annoying it is to use.
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 15 October 2014, 13:12:14
(Fingers crossed they got all of the original legends correct :P)
Post by: Joey Quinn on Fri, 17 October 2014, 21:57:49
Post by: The_Beast on Fri, 17 October 2014, 22:05:16
This thread is really dangerous for me to keep looking at, a 60% BS is my ideal board. Either I'll make a custom 60% BS or I'll make it my goal to find one of these for sale.
Could try cutting up a model M:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.0
However, it's still just a model M (model F's IMO are a million times better than the M) and it's only a 65% but at least you'd be close and it's fairly cheap to do.
Post by: Joey Quinn on Fri, 17 October 2014, 23:51:11
Could try cutting up a model M:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44875.0
I was thinking something like that with a new controller so I can rebind the keys and add some Fn layers. Ideally I'd be able to afford both so I can have the custom to play with and the Kishsaver for work and school.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 19 October 2014, 16:06:53
Unicomp even did front printing!
(http://i.imgur.com/n2fXpIz.jpg)
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 19 October 2014, 17:39:02
Here were those replacement keycaps that unicomp made for me, if anyone was interested. The printing quality is lower than original ibm keycaps but I am not really complaining, I like them.
Unicomp even did front printing!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n2fXpIz.jpg)
I will never understand Unicomp's business model. An entire custom set for one customer is totally fine, but they won't even entertain the idea of doing custom colors (purple, for example), and it took a really long time to even get RGB options for printing. Oh well.
The set looks stellar! Part of me wants to do what you've done and return it to stock, but I think I'll stick with the layout I've got.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 19 October 2014, 18:10:07
Yeah, that doesn't make much sense. Perhaps they are afraid of the upfront cost, and the possibility that they might get stuck with a bunch of remaining sets because people don't stick to it and buy once they are done. They could always collect money upfront though.Here were those replacement keycaps that unicomp made for me, if anyone was interested. The printing quality is lower than original ibm keycaps but I am not really complaining, I like them.
Unicomp even did front printing!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n2fXpIz.jpg)
I will never understand Unicomp's business model. An entire custom set for one customer is totally fine, but they won't even entertain the idea of doing custom colors (purple, for example), and it took a really long time to even get RGB options for printing. Oh well.
The set looks stellar! Part of me wants to do what you've done and return it to stock, but I think I'll stick with the layout I've got.
The printing looks okay from a rather close distance, but if you get really close some of the legends are a little iffy with some dye splatter. I will take pictures of that tomorrow maybe, but overall they are great.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Sun, 19 October 2014, 18:18:35
Is love to get a couple of fully custom sets, especially front printed for the Kishsaver (arrows & nav keys)
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 19 October 2014, 18:33:55
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 19 October 2014, 19:22:41
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
Post by: The_Beast on Sun, 19 October 2014, 19:24:24
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
They'll just think "If you already have a purple set, why would you need another"
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 19 October 2014, 19:26:40
It didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
They'll just think "If you already have a purple set, why would you need another"
They could have said the exact same thing to HPE. He wanted a new set, so they did it for him. I would like a replacement purple set, please.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 19 October 2014, 19:29:55
XD that will workIt didn't require any sweet talking or anything. I sent them the model number and a ton of pictures and they were on it. It cost me $80 for the set and they got everything right as far as I can tell.
I wonder if they are more likely to do it if it was actually for a keyboard that others might order sets for as well. As in, they aren't going to bother making some crazy printed set that will take a ton of effort and only one person would ever possibly want it.
So what I need to do is alter my photographs of my kishsaver such that the legend color is purple, and then send them the photo, asking them to replicate this totally real and authentic old keyboard keycap set. Got it. :thumb:
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 24 October 2014, 14:17:00
[attachimg=1]
Post by: HPE1000 on Fri, 24 October 2014, 15:36:29
Isn't it beautiful?Where did you get it? :confused:
(Attachment Link)
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 24 October 2014, 15:44:56
Isn't it beautiful?Where did you get it? :confused:
(Attachment Link)
Pulled from my attic. It is from the batch tinnie discovered.
Post by: Aer Fixus on Sat, 25 October 2014, 02:11:09
Isn't it beautiful?
(Attachment Link)
Yes. Yes it is.
Knowing that it's in the hands of someone who appreciates it and who will eventually restore it or pass it onto someone who will care for it is wonderful. Once that is known, damaged items take on a whole new sense of beauty as it's not what they are now, but how far they will come, even if the end state is not currently known.
Post by: Lurch on Sun, 18 January 2015, 15:40:55
^-^
Post by: Joey Quinn on Sun, 18 January 2015, 16:46:30
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Lurch you got yours working right? I really need one.
Post by: Lurch on Sun, 18 January 2015, 16:58:47
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Lurch you got yours working right? I really need one.
Yes sir! I'm making a lot of noise/typing on it now. :p
Installing the controller was a breeze (although still a bit nerve wracking). CPTBadAss' controller swap guide really helped.
Good luck in your search! They are much fun to type on. :)
Post by: Lurch on Sun, 18 January 2015, 17:22:04
before:
(http://i.imgur.com/8hdEVy9.jpg)
after:
(http://i.imgur.com/85gWlKG.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OLS7wL8.jpg) (x-post)
i'll get some more (and higher quality) pictures up once i decide what i want to do with the case...
Post by: Joey Quinn on Sun, 18 January 2015, 17:45:39
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jxeh8Nu.jpg)
^-^
Lurch you got yours working right? I really need one.
Yes sir! I'm making a lot of noise/typing on it now. :p
Installing the controller was a breeze (although still a bit nerve wracking). CPTBadAss' controller swap guide really helped.
Good luck in your search! They are much fun to type on. :)
Thanks, I've been trying pretty hard to find one. Before I left for school I went around with a friend asking local banks about 4704 systems in general. We got a lot of "we can't say anything due to security reasons" but also found a few people who had worked with the systems and knew a ton about them. Sadly our only chance of finding any said they had all been shredded a few years ago. :-X :'(
Post by: The_Beast on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:21:28
A=Sand blasted paint off
B= Paint
C= Polished paint off
D=Polished and sand blasted
(http://i.imgur.com/meFff38.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7JzQBCz.jpg)
Plate blasted too
(http://i.imgur.com/qLXhnSj.jpg)
Still need to get the paint off without rounding the corners this much :(. I'll just have to get a drill attachment
(http://i.imgur.com/TMgHLEb.jpg)
I think I'm going to go with the polished and sand blasted with a clear finish top coat
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:23:23
So I had some time, a polisher and a sand blaster.
A=Sand blasted paint off
B= Paint
C= Polished paint off
D=Polished and sand blastedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/meFff38.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7JzQBCz.jpg)
Plate blasted tooShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/qLXhnSj.jpg)
Still need to get the paint off without rounding the corners this much :(. I'll just have to get a drill attachmentShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMgHLEb.jpg)
I think I'm going to go with the polished and sand blasted with a clear finish top coat
A or D both look excellent IMO
That plate is sexy as hell
Those corners :(
Post by: CPTBadAss on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:25:16
Post by: Joey Quinn on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:27:03
So I had some time, a polisher and a sand blaster.
A=Sand blasted paint off
B= Paint
C= Polished paint off
D=Polished and sand blastedShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/meFff38.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7JzQBCz.jpg)
Plate blasted tooShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/qLXhnSj.jpg)
Still need to get the paint off without rounding the corners this much :(. I'll just have to get a drill attachmentShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TMgHLEb.jpg)
I think I'm going to go with the polished and sand blasted with a clear finish top coat
I'd say go with D, it sucks about the corner but at least you caught it early.
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:27:23
I like option D The_Beast.
I think he intentionally made option D the best one.
He likes when people say they like D.
Post by: exitfire401 on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:28:49
Post by: The_Beast on Tue, 20 January 2015, 17:44:31
Post by: Techno Trousers on Tue, 20 January 2015, 21:45:20
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
All Model Fs have a steel plate and at least a steel bottom plate. They're awesome.
Post by: sleepy916 on Tue, 20 January 2015, 22:04:37
(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
Post by: Joey Quinn on Tue, 20 January 2015, 22:07:09
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
All Model Fs have a steel plate and at least a steel bottom plate. They're awesome.
Yeah they are, I tried Hoff's and CBA's. I can't get it out of my mind. I've been trying to source one for a few months.
Post by: Touch_It on Wed, 21 January 2015, 00:07:27
Close enough :cool:
Unicomp in background.
Post by: dustinhxc on Wed, 21 January 2015, 00:21:30
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
ohhh yeah, very clean! Love it. :thumb:
Post by: atlas3686 on Tue, 24 February 2015, 01:46:32
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
Looking good sleepy!
Post by: hwood34 on Tue, 24 February 2015, 16:05:11
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 26 February 2015, 14:31:36
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
why didn't you use some paint remover? that would have saved you a lot of trouble:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/ae3ce686cefe8846456afbc65733dec8.jpg)
nearly no work and paint is falling of the kish within minutes.
Post by: Touch_It on Thu, 26 February 2015, 14:38:05
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
why didn't you use some paint remover? that would have saved you a lot of trouble:Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/ae3ce686cefe8846456afbc65733dec8.jpg)
nearly no work and paint is falling of the kish within minutes.
wish my paint remover had worked at least 1/2 as good as that.
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 26 February 2015, 14:43:04
It took more time to do the A finish since the paint is so thick and the blast media was so fine. It took forever. Then I found a polishing wheel. Took the paint right off WAY FASTER. It would take maybe 3-5 hours to do the back of the tinsaver. It maybe took 45 minutes to get all the paint off, and maybe another 20 to get the surface finished fine enough to sandblast to get a consistent blast finish.
why didn't you use some paint remover? that would have saved you a lot of trouble:Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/ae3ce686cefe8846456afbc65733dec8.jpg)
nearly no work and paint is falling of the kish within minutes.
wish my paint remover had worked at least 1/2 as good as that.
In my first attempt I had nearly no success... but then I found a good hint somewhere on the big internet.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/e1717c28e653833c885fd686e350cfab.jpg)
HowTo:
http://deskthority.net/photos-f62/save-the-last-kishsaver-t8984-30.html#p190629
Post by: STARLORDCOFFEE on Wed, 11 March 2015, 14:03:59
A picture of my kish, needs the micro usb and it will be all good!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uQGdGsy.jpg)
For the love of all things holy...that is the sexiest thing I've seen on GH to date. Im going to go cry now... :-[
Post by: ctm on Wed, 25 March 2015, 13:38:10
Post by: rowdy on Thu, 26 March 2015, 17:32:33
60% buckling spring. This looks so amazing! I wish I could get one of these in the future!
Be patient and alert.
Every now and again, on rare occasions, one might come up for sale!
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 27 March 2015, 03:29:44
I don't wanna make it even more worse with a diy-try...
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/1b9ac82e0652a753c9e9b7274cca587b.jpg)
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 27 March 2015, 06:50:50
any idea how I could remove the dent from one of my kish? or who could do it? auto repair shop?
I don't wanna make it even more worse with a diy-try...Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/25/1b9ac82e0652a753c9e9b7274cca587b.jpg)
I tried to take out my dent with a diy-try. Didn't work too well. Don't recommend.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 27 March 2015, 07:11:35
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 27 March 2015, 07:40:01
I think you've got the right idea with an auto repair shop snoopy
I'd have to agree.
I think Photoelectric took her LZ-GH (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.0) to an anodization shop and had some good luck with un-bending that, though I don't see explicit mention of which place (anodization shop or somewhere else) un-bent it in the thread. Might be another option to consider.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 27 March 2015, 07:50:14
Post by: cooldiscretion on Fri, 27 March 2015, 08:13:18
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 27 March 2015, 08:14:41
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 27 March 2015, 22:16:28
Photoelectric took the board to a machine shop (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.msg1077920#msg1077920) and I believe the shop had to use presses to straighten it out. I believe the ano shop was a separate place.
That seems to be the case, thanks! :) That is still one of my favourite restoration projects and gives me hope for any future projects that people might be considering.
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 29 March 2015, 01:28:16
Photoelectric took the board to a machine shop (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.msg1077920#msg1077920) and I believe the shop had to use presses to straighten it out. I believe the ano shop was a separate place.
That seems to be the case, thanks! :) That is still one of my favourite restoration projects and gives me hope for any future projects that people might be considering.
Very droll, sir :))
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 19 April 2015, 11:57:54
Post by: wcass on Sun, 19 April 2015, 12:31:04
[attach=1]
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 19 April 2015, 13:00:55
Sure. Print this at 100% and see if it is correct. you might need to adjust the scale slightly so that it comes out exactly right (or slightly smaller than exactly right).
(Attachment Link)
thank you so much!
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 19 April 2015, 14:35:19
Do all model Fs have a metal plate or is it only the 4704 boards?
All Model Fs have a steel plate and at least a steel bottom plate. They're awesome.
Yeah they are, I tried Hoff's and CBA's. I can't get it out of my mind. I've been trying to source one for a few months.
Actually no, the 4704's are the cast case, the rest of the standard F's have a plastic top and stamped steel bottom, with the AT having a plastic bottom. But the plastic they use is very solid for this vintage of plastics. It is a bit brittle as evident on many cracks on the 122 and unsaver variants.
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 03 May 2015, 12:31:47
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 03 May 2015, 12:39:10
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Well then. This is wonderful. :D
Post by: Joey Quinn on Sun, 03 May 2015, 18:31:00
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Words don't describe the level of jealousy I'm feeling right now!
Post by: dustinhxc on Sat, 23 May 2015, 09:23:37
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Oh damn good job man! It looks wonderful! :-)
Post by: hwood34 on Sat, 23 May 2015, 14:54:16
I finished this today:ok this is too nice to be fairShow Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
Post by: pr0ximity on Sat, 23 May 2015, 19:06:27
I finished this today:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/03/23dc6d7130ad8bda1e5665eda6ee0267.jpg)
apl iso keycaps in combination with terminal m keys. Same powdercoating as on BlacKish.
Less crappy pics soon.
(http://i.imgur.com/BSfQLO3.jpg)
I cannot contain my jealousy. Hold me.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 03 June 2015, 22:06:52
Post by: heedpantsnow on Wed, 03 June 2015, 22:13:27
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Not real. Does not exist.
Keep telling myself this to keep the jelly away.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Wed, 03 June 2015, 22:15:35
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Not real. Does not exist.
Keep telling myself this to keep the jelly away.
But it's so
(http://i.imgur.com/h1f7t47.jpg)
Post by: vivalarevolución on Thu, 04 June 2015, 07:46:29
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Go Hoosiers.
Post by: alienman82 on Thu, 04 June 2015, 09:18:01
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Thu, 04 June 2015, 09:25:11
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
DAMN! :eek:
Post by: JPG on Thu, 04 June 2015, 09:40:25
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
I should forbid myself to come look at this thread cause it hurts every time I do. So jelly ...
Post by: Joey Quinn on Thu, 04 June 2015, 10:11:21
Those blue mods look incredible with Enviro!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Post by: alienman82 on Thu, 04 June 2015, 10:56:07
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 04 June 2015, 12:20:02
Post by: alienman82 on Thu, 04 June 2015, 12:20:53
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Thu, 04 June 2015, 12:41:13
I need those mods. :|You're a mod
:O
But I'm not a blue mod!
Post by: alienman82 on Thu, 04 June 2015, 12:43:15
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 05 June 2015, 05:41:11
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wMpunbn.jpg?1)
Go Hoosiers.
Best movie ever made!
I assume that you haven't seen Breaking Away, then.
Post by: epzy on Fri, 05 June 2015, 06:31:32
(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Post by: Air tree on Fri, 05 June 2015, 06:35:03
Post by: heedpantsnow on Fri, 05 June 2015, 06:58:49
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Wow, so fine. Did you repaint it?
Post by: epzy on Fri, 05 June 2015, 07:15:33
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Wow, so fine. Did you repaint it?
these guys did: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rainbow-Paint-Blasting-Inc/337716255868 :)
Post by: cooldiscretion on Fri, 05 June 2015, 09:55:46
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoYikes. So nice. Did you do anything to the case to remove paint or was it like that when you got it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Edit: just saw previous post
Post by: epzy on Fri, 05 June 2015, 09:57:51
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoYikes. So nice. Did you do anything to the case to remove paint or was it like that when you got it?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
my kish was restored by dorkvader, so you gotta ask him
Post by: atlas3686 on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:15:29
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
Post by: epzy on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:21:41
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Post by: atlas3686 on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:27:06
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
Post by: epzy on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:29:40
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
you can order keycaps from unicomp, which I am going to do soon :P
Post by: atlas3686 on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:34:02
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
you can order keycaps from unicomp, which I am going to do soon :P
Do you just have to put odd keys in for those couple odd sized keys? I see snoopy went black blank, I was wondering if that was the reason.
Post by: epzy on Tue, 23 June 2015, 05:52:28
I forgot to post this in here, but here's my kishsaver that I got a little while agoShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/pv1sWbO.jpg)
I just want some new keycaps for it :)
Last board on my dream KB list, congrats man it looks amazing!
thanks mang, hopefully you'll be able to find one as well!
Thanks :) What caps fit? Can't be too easy to find extra caps I suppose..? Colour looks great by the way.
you can order keycaps from unicomp, which I am going to do soon :P
Do you just have to put odd keys in for those couple odd sized keys? I see snoopy went black blank, I was wondering if that was the reason.
not sure how it works, dorkvader is going to take care of it for me
Post by: Air tree on Tue, 23 June 2015, 06:03:07
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 18 December 2015, 15:28:01
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 18 December 2015, 15:36:56
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Before you get too excited about split shift, you should know that it will be 1u,1.75u instead of 1.75u,1u like the HHKB and other such boards have. Fair warning.
I opted to not split due to this. :-/
That said, modifying the layout is surprisingly easy so go nuts. :D
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 18 December 2015, 15:38:37
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 18 December 2015, 15:39:24
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Before you get too excited about split shift, you should know that it will be 1u,1.75u instead of 1.75u,1u like the HHKB and other such boards have. Fair warning.
I opted to not split due to this. :-/
That said, modifying the layout is surprisingly easy so go nuts. :D
Was not aware of that. Thanks man.
It is already programmed for the happy layout, so i'll just leave it as is.
Post by: azhdar on Fri, 18 December 2015, 15:39:29
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Before you get too excited about split shift, you should know that it will be 1u,1.75u instead of 1.75u,1u like the HHKB and other such boards have. Fair warning.
I opted to not split due to this. :-/
That said, modifying the layout is surprisingly easy so go nuts. :D
This is the best way to split imo, I wish more board would offer this. Rshift is uselesss 95% of the time anyway.
Post by: wcass on Fri, 18 December 2015, 22:20:06
This is the best way to split imo, I wish more board would offer this. Rshift is uselesss 95% of the time anyway.
Also, if you can do without Right Alt and Ctrl, the Right shift split gives you a nice arrow cluster.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 19 December 2015, 07:15:49
I don't want to wing it, having no knowledge of metalworking, and ruin the top case.
(http://i.imgur.com/aoILDXj.jpg)
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sat, 19 December 2015, 08:47:46
Post by: Halverson on Sat, 19 December 2015, 09:05:11
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 19 December 2015, 09:37:38
Take it somewhere to have it put in a metal press
Thanks bro. I'll have to look around and see what I can find.
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sat, 19 December 2015, 09:45:28
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 19 December 2015, 10:31:45
Autobody shops or like a small machine shop should have em. You can also pick 'em up at like Harbor Freight or hardware stores.There's a shop that we contract where I work. I'll swing by and speak with them this week and see if they can do anything with it.
Post by: pr0ximity on Sat, 19 December 2015, 14:00:06
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LypgKhf.jpg)
Just got this yesterday, and so far I am really enjoying it. It is my first foray into Model F and was surprised at how good it felt.
Overall the board is in pretty good condition, but could use some TLC. I want to refinish it sometime, but am not quite sure what color or how to yet. I have debated paint, powder coat, and cerakote so far.
Also want to split the right shift out for happy layout, but im in no rush for that.
;D
p.s. Sorry for the potato and necro, but I figured we would be seeing some more posts with Ellipse's new project coming up.
Envy'ing pretty hard right now, awesome get!
4704 Model F is truly a special feeling.
Post by: snoopy on Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:20:30
Combination of ISO APL keycaps, some terminal keycaps and on top Mr. F
(https://i.imgur.com/k4KAkIj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RBt0jCL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/G4la17c.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mfcXYAU.jpg)
And together with its well known brother:
(http://i.imgur.com/n0WG3Fe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/X2vX1Vg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qsRPtKx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VeaWFvl.jpg)
Back in Black:
(http://i.imgur.com/5jjk63P.jpg)
More: https://imgur.com/a/48jd1
Post by: Lurch on Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:29:06
:thumb:
Post by: pr0ximity on Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:34:24
Post by: Joey Quinn on Tue, 29 December 2015, 12:35:42
Awesome boards snoopy!
Post by: rowdy on Tue, 29 December 2015, 16:54:52
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 02 January 2016, 16:22:36
(http://i.imgur.com/Kz34G7B.jpg?1)
Of course, inspired by snoopy's amazing blackish.
Post by: bocahgundul on Sat, 02 January 2016, 17:22:13
Unicomp blanks arrived today. Still need to pickup dye for the right shift but that should happen this weekend.How do the texture compare to old model M or F caps? Are they on par to the old ones?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kz34G7B.jpg?1)
Of course, inspired by snoopy's amazing blackish.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 02 January 2016, 17:32:32
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 03 January 2016, 03:07:34
Unicomp blanks arrived today. Still need to pickup dye for the right shift but that should happen this weekend.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kz34G7B.jpg?1)
Of course, inspired by snoopy's amazing blackish.
Nice :)
I like the way the Bronin matches the case :)
Post by: raymogi on Sun, 03 January 2016, 03:16:15
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 03 January 2016, 03:46:34
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Post by: raymogi on Sun, 03 January 2016, 03:47:16
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Do tell rowdy. Don't hide anything from me.
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 03 January 2016, 04:15:31
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Do tell rowdy. Don't hide anything from me.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73363.0
Post by: raymogi on Sun, 03 January 2016, 04:16:31
2016 resolution: join this club.
You know where to go ;)
Do tell rowdy. Don't hide anything from me.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73363.0
Oh that. Yeah I'm definitely joining.
I thought there's one for sale right this moment.
Post by: Joey Quinn on Sun, 03 January 2016, 16:04:41
2016 resolution: join this club.Seconded, but I'm fairly sure I said that last year too. :))
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Sun, 03 January 2016, 18:25:59
2016 resolution: join this club.Seconded, but I'm fairly sure I said that last year too. :))
I think I remember you saying that, lol. :))
Post by: sleepy916 on Fri, 22 January 2016, 16:32:36
(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 22 January 2016, 16:38:55
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
I don't think$325 for base keyboard with no caps qualifies as "dime a dozen".
Post by: mobbo on Fri, 22 January 2016, 16:41:21
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
You mean soon he will have new friends all around the world :3
Post by: sleepy916 on Fri, 22 January 2016, 16:42:42
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
I don't think$325 for base keyboard with no caps qualifies as "dime a dozen".
I should have used more emoticons. :))
Post by: Joey Quinn on Fri, 22 January 2016, 16:43:18
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Post by: pr0ximity on Fri, 22 January 2016, 17:51:12
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
+1
107-keys are the new hotness :P
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 22 January 2016, 17:58:06
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Bit I won't feel near as bad cutting and hacking up a remake vs an OG.
Also, does anyone know if there was a non4704 50 key with F internals?
Post by: sleepy916 on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:01:57
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Bit I won't feel near as bad cutting and hacking up a remake vs an OG.
Also, does anyone know if there was a non4704 50 key with F internals?
I think there were some 50 key ones that looked like it used the model m plastic instead of aluminum.
Edit: Found one on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-KEYBOARD-4707-50-KEY-POS-1392560-/172050888228?hash=item280f083624:g:6Q4AAOSwoydWirhK
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:05:05
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Bit I won't feel near as bad cutting and hacking up a remake vs an OG.
Also, does anyone know if there was a non4704 50 key with F internals?
I think there were some 50 key ones that looked like it used the model m plastic instead of aluminum.
Edit: Found one on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-KEYBOARD-4707-50-KEY-POS-1392560-/172050888228?hash=item280f083624:g:6Q4AAOSwoydWirhK
But with a date of 1998 that is going to be M internals.
Post by: sleepy916 on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:10:31
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:15:20
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Thanks for that link, the owner of that account is a member here that I have done business with.
Post by: fanpeople on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:20:14
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
I own one of those.
Edit: except mine is a 50 key and came with the clear relegendable key caps.
Post by: Techno Trousers on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:21:38
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 22 January 2016, 18:28:07
Hmm this is the one I was thinking about. You can see the inside is clearly a model f.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/49-Key-IBM-Model-M-Keyboard-SDL-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Remapping-Macros/301402443363?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3D8b9fa2158f2748bb805f70f92d06e331%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D131690249562
Thanks for that link, the owner of that account is a member here that I have done business with.
Nice! I've never seen a Model M with "F guts" before.
Except those are M internals. Well, F style plates with membrane. Clearly states in the description of all 3 by that seller for the 49 key and the 50, that they are either membrane or 2KRO, with is certain membrane.
Post by: atlas3686 on Fri, 29 January 2016, 01:44:22
This old thing. I guess it will be a dime a dozen pretty soon. ^-^OG Kish > $$$ remake any dayShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/tFOFgtc.jpg)
Haha thanks sleepy, had a good lol at dime a dozen :)
Joey I also think the OG will always be worth more but personally I couldn't get myself to part with that kind of cash for a board of that age even partly refurbished. The parts just have to be getting old at this point no matter how well it was made and I want to use this as my daily driver so Ellipse's buy is exactly what the doctor ordered :) Joining the F62 club in 2016 :) I am fast approaching my end game, have a type-s that I use at work and will have this for home. IMHO two of the best boards ever made, just need an HHKB HG style alu case for my type-s and I will be in type heaven :)
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 29 January 2016, 09:09:10
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Because you quoted a pic. :P
Post by: atlas3686 on Fri, 29 January 2016, 10:02:28
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Because you quoted a pic. :P
Testing Hoff's theory :cool: :confused:
Edit: Confirmed :D
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 29 January 2016, 10:05:53
P.S. Anyone know why my smileys aren't working?
Because you quoted a pic. :P
Testing Hoff's theory :cool: :confused:
Edit: Confirmed :D
Yeah it's a weird glitch. :P And if you quote two posts, both with photos, smileys will work. :cool: Don't ask why. :))
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 29 January 2016, 13:10:24
Post by: CPTBadAss on Fri, 29 January 2016, 13:13:05
Would it be reasonable to put up a fully built remake with caps for even trade even 1:1 for an original in any complete condition regardless of caps?
I wouldn't trade mine for an Ellipse one. I think that project is great but it's not the same board to me.
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 29 January 2016, 13:21:28
Would it be reasonable to put up a fully built remake with caps for even trade even 1:1 for an original in any complete condition regardless of caps?
I wouldn't trade mine for an Ellipse one. I think that project is great but it's not the same board to me.
Very true, I want an original, not because of nostalgia but made in US, rather than China.
Post by: snoopy on Fri, 29 January 2016, 16:23:06
Post by: Melvang on Fri, 29 January 2016, 16:52:28
What I was hoping to trade for would be a basket case that at least has all the functional parts, but in bad shape cosmetically and doesn't have the drive or skill to get built back up again.
Post by: riotonthebay on Fri, 29 January 2016, 17:44:29
What I was hoping to trade for would be a basket case that at least has all the functional parts, but in bad shape cosmetically and doesn't have the drive or skill to get built back up again.
I don't think that would be an unreasonable trade at all. From a "value" standpoint, the pricetag of the reproduction Model F's are consistent with the recent going prices of Kishsavers, from what I've seen. Whether or not someone exists with the situation you're describing is another thing, but I don't think you're out of your mind to try.
Post by: SixtyLife on Fri, 12 February 2016, 21:09:59
(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.
(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:
(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:
(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):
(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:
(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:
(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
Post by: jerue on Fri, 12 February 2016, 21:18:20
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
That is lovely. Nice get! Some days I am tempted to put my Displaywrite SSK up for trade for an OG kish...
p.s. I keep thinking that Sixty is back every time I see you post :(
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 12 February 2016, 21:24:24
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'll be powder coating mine soon. Just need to finally settle on a color. I also need to find a cable I'm happy with. The paracord one that the prior owner used with it doesn't do it for me. I do think the original paint looks amazing and wish I found one that still had it. But when it comes to these boards, gotta take what you can get.
Post by: vivalarevolución on Fri, 12 February 2016, 21:35:09
I'm recently using this Kish a lot. (and this club needs a bit more attention)
Combination of ISO APL keycaps, some terminal keycaps and on top Mr. FShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/k4KAkIj.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/RBt0jCL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G4la17c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mfcXYAU.jpg)
And together with its well known brother:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/n0WG3Fe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/X2vX1Vg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qsRPtKx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VeaWFvl.jpg)
Back in Black:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5jjk63P.jpg)
More: https://imgur.com/a/48jd1
Mmm Mmm Mmm. I also wonder how this club will be affected by Ellipse's project.
I kinda wish I still was a member of this club. But the funds from my Kishsaver sale immediately were put into XTant parts, so I don't feel so bad about the sale of my Kishsaver. In the long run, I don't care for having my naveigation keys on the function layer. Or at least that's what I keep telling myself.
Post by: SixtyLife on Mon, 15 February 2016, 16:11:07
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'll be powder coating mine soon. Just need to finally settle on a color. I also need to find a cable I'm happy with. The paracord one that the prior owner used with it doesn't do it for me. I do think the original paint looks amazing and wish I found one that still had it. But when it comes to these boards, gotta take what you can get.
did you decide on powdercoating color? I started painting my plate and now am actually tempted to strip the outer paint and powdercoat it also lol.. really breathes new life into them. Also, I saw that your case had a bent edge.. were you able to straighten that out?
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Mon, 15 February 2016, 16:13:08
got this in the mail today. it'll stay with me til I die and then be passed on to my favorite child. I believe it comes from the same batch of kishsavers that tinlong found a few years ago.Very nice man!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gVlAabt.jpg)
it's dated 1986 and little different from most of the kishes I've seen. instead of two screws holding the top and bottom of the case, it has 4, as can be seen in the bottom side pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iu2LGoL.jpg)
upon opening, we can see that the screws go from the bottom case straight through the plate assembly to the top case. this is different from the other kishes(mainly 1983s) I've seen that have separate internal screws that hold the plate assembly against just the top case and a 3rd set of middle screws that hold the top and bottom together. I personally like the older kish's method of having separate set of screws better, but I also like the fact that the 1986 case is being held together by 4 screws vs just 2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EXDQudN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MhQGwg0.jpg)
ibm also seemed to have done away with the plastic strips that were sandwiched between the plate assembly and the top case. the plate assembly lies right against the screw threads:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nr8s5EB.jpg)
another difference is how thick the walls of the top case are compared to the older kishes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUyHXA9.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2NXQUzc.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zHbvGaS.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Yo76qWU.jpg)
the difference in thickness can be seen against this picture (from wcass):Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54569;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=52394.0;attach=54571;image)
those are the main differences I could see. the paint seems to be in good shape, though there are a couple large chips on the bottom corners. I think I'll give it a good cleaning and keep the original paint for now. the plate has significant corrosion and will be stripped and repainted:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4lYGB5.jpg)
the top plate has a slight curvature that I would like get straightened at machine shop:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FAxGCpe.jpg)
if anyone knows any shops in the san jose area that they'd recommend for straightening it out, please let me know!
I'll be powder coating mine soon. Just need to finally settle on a color. I also need to find a cable I'm happy with. The paracord one that the prior owner used with it doesn't do it for me. I do think the original paint looks amazing and wish I found one that still had it. But when it comes to these boards, gotta take what you can get.
did you decide on powdercoating color? I started painting my plate and now am actually tempted to strip the outer paint and powdercoat it also lol.. really breathes new life into them. Also, I saw that your case had a bent edge.. were you able to straighten that out?
Still undecided on the color, but am considering a purple or blue. In terms of the case, I was able to apply some pressure to it and straighten it some. It's not as noticeable as it was, but I still may take into a shop to get it fixed, idk yet.
Post by: SixtyLife on Mon, 15 February 2016, 16:34:16
Still undecided on the color, but am considering a purple or blue. In terms of the case, I was able to apply some pressure to it and straighten it some. It's not as noticeable as it was, but I still may take into a shop to get it fixed, idk yet.either color would be really interesting to see. I mean... I've seen glittery purple on cptbadass's board but haven't seen any blues yet :) I'm contemplating finding a shop to straightening out some bowing on my case but scared it might crack. glad you were able to straighten it a bit.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Mon, 15 February 2016, 16:36:28
Still undecided on the color, but am considering a purple or blue. In terms of the case, I was able to apply some pressure to it and straighten it some. It's not as noticeable as it was, but I still may take into a shop to get it fixed, idk yet.either color would be really interesting to see. I mean... I've seen glittery purple on cptbadass's board but haven't seen any blues yet :) I'm contemplating finding a shop to straightening out some bowing on my case but scared it might crack. glad you were able to straighten it a bit.
Yeah i'm still on the fence. With the massive amount of colors available, its tough narrowing it down to one.
Post by: sleepy916 on Mon, 15 February 2016, 19:05:36
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:25:15
Post by: bocahgundul on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:27:06
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
OG apl caps? that kishsaver are too hawt!
Post by: riotonthebay on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:29:40
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
OG apl caps? that kishsaver are too hawt!
I wish :-[
I'd love some, but for now Unicomp's ****ty variant must suffice. I'd love an OG set however.
Post by: bocahgundul on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:30:43
Ahh too bad bro, I wish that you could get an OG apl caps somehowShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
OG apl caps? that kishsaver are too hawt!
I wish :-[
I'd love some, but for now Unicomp's ****ty variant must suffice. I'd love an OG set however.
But that KWK/KBK
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:43:09
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Cwtzu7r.jpg)
Ugh you really need an OG set on there. Looks amazing as-is, but that would make it even better. :thumb: Nice board riot. :D
Post by: alienman82 on Tue, 16 February 2016, 08:59:49
Post by: lot_lizard on Mon, 22 February 2016, 08:30:06
Post by: lot_lizard on Mon, 22 February 2016, 20:04:37
EDIT
I have attached the rounded rubber bumper image and object files as well. Shopping around, it seems 5 dollars per is very doable for printed "rubber-like" in natural white. I will edit this later and post up the flat bottom variety (my kish had two of each)
EDIT
Added the bumper slots to the foot bar. Sending everything off for fab. Have a friend that can print the bar, but will need to send the bumpers to an online service.
EDIT
Last edit, and I'll let this be. Last night I cleaned up everything and sent off all three parts for printing. My friend is going to do the bar in HD paintable plastic, and I will have all the bumpers (rounded and flat) printed in "rubber". I have attached the latest version of image and object files if anyone can benefit from this later. There is also an image of the rounded bumper and foot bar integration for clarity.
Post by: jacobolus on Tue, 23 February 2016, 02:16:49
Just use a piece of wood or something. It’s not like the geometry here is anything tricky.
Post by: lot_lizard on Tue, 23 February 2016, 03:26:18
EDIT
I ended up adding the integrated bumpers, see previous post edits. Excited to see the final result. The other up side to this approach is another person could benefit from my work and have an exact duplicate. WCass was nice enough to send me the spacer plans, and I thought I would pay it forward
Post by: lot_lizard on Wed, 02 March 2016, 13:24:04
Post by: lot_lizard on Sat, 12 March 2016, 13:13:38
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sat, 12 March 2016, 13:55:16
Got the printed footbar back from my friend, and couldn't be happier. I really don't even know if I will need to sand anything (planned on that from the beginning), but I actually think the slight course texture of the bar will look great once I color match the case for painting. Anyway... just wanted to show the results. I did price this out on Shapeways (just for giggles), and it came in at 42 dollars. They do great work for the money, but helps to have a friend with a printer on hand
That's a clever little design. How do you feel about typing on the board with the leg?
Post by: lot_lizard on Sat, 12 March 2016, 14:55:00
Post by: SixtyLife on Tue, 15 March 2016, 13:54:03
(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
Post by: ArnavM on Tue, 15 March 2016, 19:10:31
finally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
That's some good **** right there :thumb:
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 16 March 2016, 02:56:49
finally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
Post by: SixtyLife on Wed, 16 March 2016, 14:58:19
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kishShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/88DMjYU.jpg)
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
Post by: snoopy on Thu, 17 March 2016, 02:21:28
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
too bad you live on the other side of the earth. A black and white photoshoot would have been awesome :D
Ever thought about blank keys ( in the original beige color schema)? That would give it a even more clean look.
And, if you're into clacks, try to get a hardcore white bs clack. ;D
Post by: SixtyLife on Mon, 21 March 2016, 19:04:47
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
too bad you live on the other side of the earth. A black and white photoshoot would have been awesome :D
Ever thought about blank keys ( in the original beige color schema)? That would give it a even more clean look.
And, if you're into clacks, try to get a hardcore white bs clack. ;D
I have a feeling the only way to possibly get a hardcore white bs clack would be to trade my kish for it.. which would defeat the purpose :p
Might try the brilliant white blanks from unicomp but first a splash of RGBs!
(http://i.imgur.com/DSkeBKF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3BFfxhu.jpg)
Post by: rowdy on Sat, 26 March 2016, 05:31:41
both the plate and case are powdercoated white.. kinda the opposite of your venerated blackish. won't be getting any blank white keys thoughfinally done reassembling this guy. plain white kish
nice kish! Paint or Powdercoat?
too bad you live on the other side of the earth. A black and white photoshoot would have been awesome :D
Ever thought about blank keys ( in the original beige color schema)? That would give it a even more clean look.
And, if you're into clacks, try to get a hardcore white bs clack. ;D
I have a feeling the only way to possibly get a hardcore white bs clack would be to trade my kish for it.. which would defeat the purpose :p
Might try the brilliant white blanks from unicomp but first a splash of RGBs!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DSkeBKF.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BFfxhu.jpg)
Nicely done :)
Are your Shifts slightly different shades of green? They look the same, but many sets are slightly different.
Post by: SixtyLife on Sun, 27 March 2016, 00:13:40
Are your Shifts slightly different shades of green? They look the same, but many sets are slightly different.I thiiink they're pretty close or the same but not 100% sure. tried to take a couple pics:
(http://i.imgur.com/aMdo9M5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wEflXFU.jpg)
had issues with the printing on the unicomp keys not being properly aligned though. unicomp replaced the keys for free but even the replacements were not aligned so I just gave up. you can see how the right control and left Alt is below center and the right Alt above center
(http://i.imgur.com/Q5uwP3S.jpg)
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 27 March 2016, 03:19:49
So my decission long time ago was, either go blank or hunt for vintage sets. In case of rgb, it's a bit tough. Maybe you should order 3 or 4 sets, pick the best ones and send back the rest.
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 27 March 2016, 21:20:34
Are your Shifts slightly different shades of green? They look the same, but many sets are slightly different.I thiiink they're pretty close or the same but not 100% sure. tried to take a couple pics:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aMdo9M5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wEflXFU.jpg)
had issues with the printing on the unicomp keys not being properly aligned though. unicomp replaced the keys for free but even the replacements were not aligned so I just gave up. you can see how the right control and left Alt is below center and the right Alt above centerShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q5uwP3S.jpg)
That's very ... imaginative ... printing.
My Shifts are fairly obviously different shades of green, unfortunately. Many other sets are too, that I've seen pictures of around here. Yours do seem to be the same.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 06 May 2016, 04:43:49
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
Post by: bocahgundul on Fri, 06 May 2016, 04:47:19
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
WHAT COLOR?!
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 06 May 2016, 04:48:18
Stay tuned. ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
WHAT COLOR?!
Post by: bocahgundul on Fri, 06 May 2016, 07:15:16
Stay tuned. ;)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XuSc14V.jpg)
Last time you will see the case looking like this :D
Still have a good bit if work I want to do before I reassemble everything, hopefully I'll have the updated pics by next weekend.
WHAT COLOR?!
CAN'T WAIT!
Post by: alienman82 on Fri, 06 May 2016, 09:19:14
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sun, 15 May 2016, 13:01:02
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.
(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Post by: SixtyLife on Sun, 15 May 2016, 13:09:07
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Dat texture :cool:. Looks sick man, congrats!
Post by: user 18 on Sun, 15 May 2016, 13:58:14
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
That is absolutely gorgeous. Well done!
Post by: smknjoe on Sun, 15 May 2016, 14:03:47
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Nice.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sun, 15 May 2016, 15:32:43
Edit: Thanks to codyeatworld for the help, it's name is now dethkish.
(http://i.imgur.com/C4YEtxd.jpg)
Post by: avantdark on Sun, 15 May 2016, 19:08:27
Post by: CPTBadAss on Sun, 15 May 2016, 20:02:43
Post by: atlas3686 on Mon, 16 May 2016, 02:39:54
Thanks everyone. Here are some more pics. Turns out my dye job didnt go as poorly as I had thought originally. The color isnt perfect, but it is pretty close.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C4YEtxd.jpg)
Super cool, love the colour!
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 23 May 2016, 09:34:15
(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Post by: Signature on Mon, 23 May 2016, 09:50:13
Finally got oneNice get! Is that sleepy's?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 23 May 2016, 09:57:49
No, I got it from Techno TrousersFinally got oneNice get! Is that sleepy's?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Post by: user 18 on Mon, 23 May 2016, 10:45:07
Finally got oneShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRTC3H0.jpg)
Dry run assembly. Anyone know if this connector is physically compatible with a VGA socket?
Looks to me like it would be physically compatible with DB-9, but not VGA. Would be easier to tell with an end-on picture.
Post by: rowdy on Sun, 29 May 2016, 05:38:23
Picked it up last week from the powder coaters, and have to say I was blown away by the work they did on it. Really happy with how it turned out. Still need to sort the right shift out, but once that is done I will post up a full board pic.
I made the cable using a black cherry cable (big thanks to nickheller). I didn't want to shrink wrap the ends, so the thick insulation proved to be a headache when using the molded connectors.
Next up I want to repaint the plate, and replace the inner foam. I don't think that there is any issue with the foam, but I figure might as well when I have it apart.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/yJBHURz.jpg)
obviously, snoopy's blackish was a huge inspiration.
Very nicely done!
The black cable is a nice touch.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 30 May 2016, 01:02:29
[attach=1]
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 13 June 2016, 07:49:22
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 13 June 2016, 18:35:25
Post by: pr0ximity on Mon, 13 June 2016, 19:24:17
Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 13 June 2016, 19:32:22
Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 13 June 2016, 22:28:24
Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 13 June 2016, 22:33:31
How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Melvang on Mon, 13 June 2016, 22:35:07
That I couldn't tell you. I didn't really look long. Just posted serious interest, asked a couple questions, and I got pmed with an offer. But I have been a member of this community for a long time.How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 14 June 2016, 09:08:26
How about a beat up one missing caps? I dont care what it looks like, I will fix it up.Im pretty patient, Im just waiting on the day someone finds boxes and boxes of f77s and kishsavers in the back room of a bank :)) But seriously, Im sure someone has a kish they would sell me.Damn you guys just seem to want me to spend all my money. How much does it cost to get in the kish club? Im looking for an all original one, doesnt have to be perfecct.
Money shouldn't be your concern as much as finding someone who's willing to let one go, I think.
I just got mine a couple weeks ago for $375 with shipping. This seems to be about the lower end of the average going rate for a complete one. A couple years ago there was a box of 29 (if I remember right) but a good number of them had missing caps, scratches, debts, or very dirty. Cleaned up they do fetch a premium.
There is a long line of people interested in these boards. Not trying to tell you it won't happen, but realistically you'd have to get very lucky or try very hard.
Post by: mike52787 on Tue, 14 June 2016, 09:10:54
Post by: Moistgun on Tue, 14 June 2016, 09:14:55
Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
That would be really interesting, Abandoned office building or warehouses are exciting.
Post by: mike52787 on Tue, 14 June 2016, 09:16:09
We need to get an abandoned building exploration crew going :))Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
That would be really interesting, Abandoned office building or warehouses are exciting.
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Tue, 14 June 2016, 09:22:18
Im just waiting for the next lot of them to be discovered. Im sure theres a ton more out there that havent been found yet.
Oh okay, I gotcha. :) I'm sure you're right. After all, no one knew of the last batch until it was discovered. ;)
Post by: Melvang on Sun, 19 June 2016, 22:50:57
I have mine sent to 125 and for column skips the first two and the last 6.
If I hold down the 4 keys for each standard home row position and jiggle the caps, I can get a quick flash of a key from the other hand. Should I bump it up a couple or leave it there? Keep in mind this test was down not in any case and just sitting on my kitchen table testing a grounding issue that was causing a full line to not sense at all. Pretty sure I have that one solved.
Post by: SixtyLife on Tue, 25 April 2017, 20:28:04
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:
(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:
(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:
(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:
(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.
(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Tue, 25 April 2017, 20:30:27
resurrecting this glorious thread
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
Very nice setup man! That kish is in beautiful condition!
Post by: SixtyLife on Tue, 25 April 2017, 20:59:38
Very nice setup man! That kish is in beautiful condition!thanks!
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Tue, 25 April 2017, 23:18:28
resurrecting this glorious thread
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
Amazing find. Looks like it works great.
Post by: alienman82 on Tue, 25 April 2017, 23:20:02
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Tue, 25 April 2017, 23:20:56
why the hell would you want to take that around with you? too heavy?
get an hhkb, light and it has the layout you're copying
For storage?
Regardless kish > hhkb all day err day
Post by: Joey Quinn on Tue, 25 April 2017, 23:33:24
Regardless kish > hhkb all day err day
True but if I had a Kish my HHKBs would still be my daily carry boards.
As payment for a Kish I'd be happy to carry it around for a few days though. :))
Post by: snoopy on Wed, 26 April 2017, 11:47:18
very nice board and case.
Post by: JP on Fri, 28 April 2017, 13:03:39
Post by: sundin on Sun, 30 April 2017, 00:36:14
resurrecting this glorious thread(https://secure.static.tumblr.com/b9494f6b003709022b73c0dd23134470/yogoawo/Xamo3w53d/tumblr_static_tumblr_static_ew70mzonk3s4gkg4s4o8skg0s_640.gif)
found a nice carrying case this week:
https://www.casematix.com/product/casematix-scout/
the dimensions are almost perfect for the kishsaver with very little modding of the internal foam needed (it comes mostly pre-cut).
from the outside:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7xyorjR.jpg)
sitting in the case:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KXvLUEg.jpg)
internal foam:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/itTxZ0m.jpg)
the corner with less foam is to put the wire-organizer-thingy:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cwThw98.jpg)
I can plug the kishsaver in directly, but prefer using this usb-a to mini adapter so it's easier to swap keyboards.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3K5CbZj.jpg)
highly recommend this case :thumb:
Post by: mrduul on Sun, 28 May 2017, 16:00:43
Post by: alienman82 on Sun, 28 May 2017, 19:29:23
Post by: mrduul on Mon, 29 May 2017, 04:12:39
from a forum member? or did you find one?
Deskthority PM.
Post by: mrduul on Fri, 02 June 2017, 16:44:48
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89929.0
Post by: Marutks on Tue, 11 July 2017, 12:50:30
Is it any good?
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Tue, 11 July 2017, 12:58:35
You can buy new one from https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-model-f-keyboard-kishsaver.
Is it any good?
People seem to have liked it.
Although that's an F62, not a kishsaver
Post by: zacheadams on Tue, 11 July 2017, 12:58:40
You can buy new one from https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-model-f-keyboard-kishsaver.
Is it any good?
yes
Post by: SixtyLife on Thu, 28 September 2017, 15:28:42
(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Post by: sleepy916 on Thu, 28 September 2017, 18:17:07
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
They must have sent it your place by mistake, please pm me for my address. ^-^
Beautiful color! :) ;)
Post by: SixtyLife on Thu, 28 September 2017, 20:17:35
Thanks sleepy!Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
They must have sent it your place by mistake, please pm me for my address. ^-^
Beautiful color! :) ;)
Post by: pr0ximity on Fri, 29 September 2017, 14:49:45
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Wow that looks amazing! I'm surprised it's taken this long for someone to cerakote a kish
Post by: HoffmanMyster on Fri, 29 September 2017, 15:55:04
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
Beautiful!! 😍
Post by: dgneo on Wed, 04 October 2017, 07:43:12
Stainless Cerakote:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/xGA3UCj.jpg)
finished pics pls pls pls
Post by: SixtyLife on Wed, 04 October 2017, 19:08:56
case cerakote color is Stainless H-152Q and plate is Graphite Black C-102Q
(https://i.imgur.com/2MYji3v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8P1QLw0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bNGR3LC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AK70HaG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Up89Yw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dkF4Rnx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OTKU6iC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L4vE3YJ.jpg)
Post by: alienman82 on Wed, 04 October 2017, 21:14:43
Post by: SixtyLife on Wed, 04 October 2017, 21:50:10
is that a cable tie or some wireless solution?thanks. it's just a cable tie
The case color looks really good
Post by: InvidiousIgnoramus on Wed, 04 October 2017, 21:55:35
Post by: JP on Sun, 08 October 2017, 19:31:19
Post by: snoopy on Sat, 02 December 2017, 17:50:06
thanks all! sorry it took awhile to get the plate cerakoted, finally managed to assemble and snap some pics today.
case cerakote color is Stainless H-152Q and plate is Graphite Black C-102QShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/2MYji3v.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/8P1QLw0.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/bNGR3LC.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/AK70HaG.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Up89Yw.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/dkF4Rnx.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/OTKU6iC.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/L4vE3YJ.jpg)
that color looks great! awesome kish!
Post by: PainMaster on Wed, 06 December 2017, 00:08:45
It's my style !!!!
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Fri, 26 January 2018, 04:03:54
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Fri, 26 January 2018, 08:52:25
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Glad to see it in your hands man
Post by: SixtyLife on Fri, 26 January 2018, 09:03:03
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.too sexy
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Post by: JP on Fri, 26 January 2018, 09:47:52
Post by: Puddsy on Fri, 26 January 2018, 12:49:36
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Kishsavers are so cool. I've really come around on them since the first time I saw one.
Post by: pr0ximity on Sat, 27 January 2018, 05:30:18
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Awesome get! My F107 has a similar bend in its case, it's something I'd like to fix but as you mentioned, I worry about the paint. If you do end up trying to fix it I'd be interested to hear how it goes.
Post by: ghostjuggernaut on Sat, 27 January 2018, 05:41:35
Time to share my most recent acquisition. I am extremely grateful to be able to have a new one after having to sell the blackish a year and a half ago.
The case is in very good condition, and I think I will be keeping the original paint on it. Very minor chips and scratches on it, but i love the character it has. Some of the keycaps are damaged, but I plan to keep as many of the original keys as possible. Moving forward I plan to convert it to USB and change it over to happy layout. While I have it apart I will probably repaint the plate since I assume there are issues without even looking.
On to the pictures.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/25034598657_c889458590_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4759/39906230011_0b96bbd2eb_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28125866249_f1f2679293_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/28125872199_d5948e3d07_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/28125878699_0d5b40b6ab_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/25034600747_4d817bb4d0_h.jpg)Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/25034601597_7a45aeef3e_h.jpg)
Here is one issue ive noticed, but unsure if i will do much beyond trying to straighten by hand. My concern with taking it to be straightened would be damage to the paint.Show Image(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/25034596357_60270c484e_h.jpg)
Awesome get! My F107 has a similar bend in its case, it's something I'd like to fix but as you mentioned, I worry about the paint. If you do end up trying to fix it I'd be interested to hear how it goes.
The last one I had, had a similar bend to it. I think it may be a common issue among those types of cases. I was able to use a little force and straighten it out by hand, and will probably try the same thing with this one.
Post by: piercejenkins on Thu, 24 May 2018, 09:06:02
Post by: 00 on Thu, 24 May 2018, 10:27:37
I have had my eye on one of these for years. What is the best way of going about getting one?
look around for news of banks getting rid of old hardware, contact recyclers with known connections to old financial equipment, get the word out as best you can to the relevant people etc.
cross your fingers extra hard and be prepared to wait several years
Post by: 3480px on Sun, 23 August 2020, 13:28:59
so... this is probably a very stupid question, has anyone purchased a case from model f keyboards and then used a different pcb and mx style switches? i love the sound of holy pandas and purchased some of those so was wondering if they would work in this case?
apologies if i messed up any of the terms or anything, new to this. Also if anyone has any tips for doing this or has done this before, all info or help would be much appreciated!
Post by: tinlong117 on Fri, 01 January 2021, 17:50:02
Post by: nevin on Sat, 02 January 2021, 11:09:32
hey! kinda new to keyboards but im hoping to eventually build a grail board and i LOVE the look of kishsaver cases.
so... this is probably a very stupid question, has anyone purchased a case from model f keyboards and then used a different pcb and mx style switches? i love the sound of holy pandas and purchased some of those so was wondering if they would work in this case?
apologies if i messed up any of the terms or anything, new to this. Also if anyone has any tips for doing this or has done this before, all info or help would be much appreciated!
good luck finding one on ebay or used without paying through the nose.
3d print a shell?
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/b8szw3/my_first_3d_printed_keyboard_case_ibm_model_f/
https://keyboardbelle.com/products/saver-case-pre-order?variant=22399275499580
or new production parts
https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/
Post by: absyrd on Mon, 04 January 2021, 13:49:48
Heh I ****ing regretted selling all of them for so cheap.
Hi tinnie!
Post by: snoopy on Sun, 20 November 2022, 07:57:19
Keycaps removed to show off the beautiful plate. The cleaning process was very intense. I hope I didn’t over restore it.
What do you think?