[url=https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.0][img width=304 height=120]https://i.imgur.com/LYOA5Fp.jpg[/img][/url]
Have you considered a 2u vertical key in the function row? Similar to the tall Escape and Delete in the old school Thinkpads?
[/url][url=https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.0][img width=168 height=120]https://i.imgur.com/fkFBETF.png?1[/img][/url]
This is SUPER basic but i set up one of those code things for people to put in there signatures.
I wanted a link for this project to put next to the keycaps I am going to get.Code: [Select][/url][url=https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.0][img width=168 height=120]https://i.imgur.com/fkFBETF.png?1[/img][/url]
Would you make a version 2.0 with no numpad for your next project? I would be all over it.
Would you have color on them in R1? color is a must for me, I am in. Otherwise, I go for R2.
Hey! I just filled out the form but there's another form of feedback I want to give: I don't like how the bottom row looks with all 1.25u keys on one side and all 1u keys on the other. Instead of 125/125/125/625/100/100/100 I'd prefer something like 125/100/125/625/100/100/125.
Just having that one slightly bigger key in the mods next to the arrow keys would be a big improvement, imo :)
I ordered a bunch of kits in the last dev/tty run on drop so I'll have enough sensibly labelled keys for the top area of the board ;D
Thanks for the update.
Second, I like the changes to the seam and the added overhang. In my mind that will make it far less of a standout contact point to get annoyed by.
Does this also hide where the two halves meet together? so if the seam is not flawless you wont really see it?
One thing that's a little weird for about this board is the position of the arrow keys. I think the up arrow should line up with the vertical macro keys. Maybe move the arrow cluster down and to the right, below the numpad and the core keys?
Finally!! I, for one am getting a bit worn out by all the 60% clones. Very few offer anything different. While this isn’t original by a long shot, it is one that sticks out amongst today’s offerings. I love me a battleship and am down for one of the versions. Maybe grab the file and get an acrylic one made? Good luck and I sincerely wish you the best.
Interesting. I would love to see a build vids before the GB.
Any ideas about pricing?
I haven't had a chance to look at the latest kicad files yet, but I was thinking it might be nice to have a spare I2c and/or SPI port on the board do be able to drive some OLED or LCD displays. I was thinking it might be kind of fun to come up with a custom case that has some displays just above the PF keys to show what they are mapped to, kind of like the Cherry/Reuters 9009. But that would definitely be a very optional feature and would in no way keep me from getting one of these.
Thank you for all the work and for supporting us full-is size types :)
Though I do suppose an i2C/SPI display could eliminate the need for the lock LEDs and possibly the RGBLED status indicator light, so that could free up 4 pins (though the pins they are currently assigned to do not support SPI or I2C).
Never mind, I thought the 3d printed version was top mount but it is actually sandwich ~ ~ : )
So I played around a little bit tonight, and here is a possible layout using a few of these : https://www.buydisplay.com/serial-spi-1-5-inch-color-oled-display-128x128-graphic-module-ssd1351 (https://www.buydisplay.com/serial-spi-1-5-inch-color-oled-display-128x128-graphic-module-ssd1351)
It looks like it might work, but I think there is room for improvement:
(Attachment Link)
In for Fr4/3d
Any possibility for 7u bottom row or 2x [1.5]u right of spacebar?
This lookin sick. Any chance a brass weight will be available for the FR4 version or has design been finalised already?
Do people want a Discord server? I could also start posting daily updates to this thread or something.
Right now I'm:
- Adding 1.5u and split-space to the PCB. This also necessitates some changes to the plate.
- Trying to work out some minor print quality issues on my 3D printer so that I can reliably print good quality cases. I also reached out to my friend who has a Prusa Mk3 3D printer.
Other stuff on the to-do list:
- Need to implement some features in QMK, set up QMK configurator, and redo the current QMK matrix/keymap files so they're done properly (the current files work but don't follow proper convention)
- Write up assembly instructions
Prototypes for the aluminum version are still a couple of weeks out.
Do people want a Discord server? I could also start posting daily updates to this thread or something.
Right now I'm:
- Adding 1.5u and split-space to the PCB. This also necessitates some changes to the plate.
- Trying to work out some minor print quality issues on my 3D printer so that I can reliably print good quality cases. I also reached out to my friend who has a Prusa Mk3 3D printer.
Other stuff on the to-do list:
- Need to implement some features in QMK, set up QMK configurator, and redo the current QMK matrix/keymap files so they're done properly (the current files work but don't follow proper convention)
- Write up assembly instructions
Prototypes for the aluminum version are still a couple of weeks out.
I would love to have a discord setup for this. I want to make sure I don't miss out on this and I don't check the forums too often.
As usual, apologies for lack of updates - I unfortunately lost power and internet for three days, but am back now. I'm building up a proto of the latest PCB revision, and writing up assembly instructions. I'll make a sound test video soon tomorrow or Monday also.
GB will probably be in mid-November as that's when I'm expecting the chips to restock.
Given this timeline, what do you think the turnaround would be for the 3d printed versions? Something about this keyboard just screams to me to turn it into a Christmas gift for my dad ;D
@Pylon
Unless I am reading it wrong, it looks like the chips are available again?
https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f072c8.html#sample-buy (https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f072c8.html#sample-buy)
@Pylon
Unless I am reading it wrong, it looks like the chips are available again?
https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f072c8.html#sample-buy (https://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32f072c8.html#sample-buy)
Unfortunately, those are the 64kb variant of the chips, not the 128kb that Pylon is looking to use. The earliest that I could find for the 128kb chips being restocked was 24 Nov 2020 at Mouser. Link to Chips (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/STM32F072CBU6TR?qs=s5SkPsIz10%2Fmed9m47hqYw%3D%3D)
Getting email notifications for this thread is a rollercoaster. First, the feeling of excited anticipation at the possibility there could be an update on this board. However more often than not, it’s just some person commenting about how they like the board or worse yet, an update on the 3D print version of it. Nothing against that version, but I’m all about a premium aluminum version of this battleship. When I sit in front of this keeb I want to feel like I’m Homer Simpson in front of those power plant panels with all those buttons to press.
Sorry - the update for the GB dates and other details is delayed, as I was in close contact with a coworker who tested positive for COVID, and have to isolate from others I live with for the next 2 weeks (and can't access my workbench except very late at night). I haven't been able to go through the PCBs and solder microcontrollers to them as a result, as the number of spots I can offer depends on how many working PCBs I have on hand.
Very cool! Will the 3D printed and Aluminum cases be interchangeable?
I was going to ask about print volume required for the case
any update on this limited run of b-stock?
any update on this limited run of b-stock?
Unfortunately I'm running into a lot of issues with my 3D printer as of late, and am still trying to get that resolved. It's a combination of colder winter temperatures (my printer usually lives in my basement) causing print quality issues and a lot of failed prints, and a lot of headaches with the BL-Touch bed leveling sensor I installed in December (which is giving me a lot of bed crashes and resulting print failures). So unfortunately no dates yet unfortunately, as I'm still working on getting that resolved. Sorry for things moving slowly. I do still intend to run a GB with the full 3D printed case in the near future.
Since getting the 3D printing back up to par is taking a while, if anyone owns or has access to a 3D printer, are willing to print their own case, and wants to purchase a B-stock barebones kit (PCB, FR4 plate, FR4 panels, feet, screws and other hardware, and rotary encoder, but no knob) for $80 + shipping, please send me a PM. I have around ~20 keebs worth of PCBs, plates, FR4 panels, and hardware. STL files and a STEP assembly file are available on Github here (https://github.com/bluepylons/Boston/tree/master/Boston%20-%20Current%20design/3D-printed%20case%20-%20parts), with some instructions on printing in the manual here here (https://github.com/bluepylons/Boston/blob/master/Boston%20-%20Current%20design/3D-printed%20case%20-%20parts/Draft%20instructions%20(barebones%20kit).pdf). The microcontroller, USB-C port, and a couple of small parts on the PCB have been hand-soldered due to JLCPCB's limitations. Each PCB is fully tested. I also don't have any knobs on-hand at the moment, but it's fairly easily to find STL files of knobs online to 3D print, or you can buy a nice metal knob such as these guitar knobs (https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/knobs/dome-knob.html) or this knurled aluminum one (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kilo-international/OEDNI-75-2-7/5970341?s=N4IgTCBcDa5gbAWgCwEYAcBWRA5AIiALoC%2BQA).
The PCBs for the above batch are green as JLCPCB at the time only offered green PCBs for PCBs with components soldered on. The plate and all other FR4 pieces are matte black.
(Attachment Link)
I have working QMK firmware for it with all the features I intended implemented (layers, layer indicator LED, and encoder), but I'm still waiting on the pull request to the QMK repo to get approved (https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/pull/11273). QMK Configurator won't work until the pull request gets approved, so you'll have to compile firmware files manually through command line and editing keymap files at this time.
Future boards won't have green PCBs - I got a quote from Elecrow for fully-assembled PCBs with white solder mask and it's quite a bit lower than expected, so I'm planning on running future boards through them.
For the metal version - I'm working things out with an American machine shop and a vendor to run that board. Will have some updates on that soon.
How do we get notified when the GB starts?
Love the look of this board, and am eagerly anticipating have almost enough keys.
Love the look of this board, and am eagerly anticipating have almost enough keys.
The ultimate question is...how many dollars per key?
I mean, I'm already paying ~$1 per keycap, and probably $.50-$.75 a switch, so I've got keep my budget reasonable. For a full alu case, I'd be happy with ~$4 a socket.
How do we get notified when the GB starts?
For the 3D-printed version - I'll post in this thread with some notice. If you want have access to a 3D-printer and want a B-stock barebones kit (PCB, plate, bottom panels, hardware) for the 3D-printed (see post above (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.msg3006394#msg3006394)) PM me as I still have quite a few of those.
It probably won't be at least for another couple of weeks, as unfortunately I've been very busy with work as of late and it probably won't let up for a couple more weeks. I did spend a couple hours tinkering with my Ender 3 3D printer, and unfortunately it does not home the Z-axis consistently anymore and has repeatedly either crashed into the bed or printed far too high above the bed, with no rhyme or reason to it. I need to reflash the firmware and/or possibly replace the bed leveling sensor on it (or just go back to manual bed leveling), but haven't gotten around to doing so. Sorry about that. Once the printer is back up and working reliably I can announce a GB date.
For the metal version - there's been some significant progress with the US shop and vendor I'm working with, and there will be an announcement (and proto pics) in the near future, but nothing I can share yet.
Finally got to building mine, fun board to build!Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/0DnRTRg)
Finally got to building mine, fun board to build!Nice, love the space cadet keycaps :)Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/0DnRTRg)
Finally got to building mine, fun board to build!Show Image(https://imgur.com/a/0DnRTRg)
Will there be split l-shift support? If so, this is definitely something I'd want to pick up!
Yeah, that'll definitely be an option. Sorry to hear the loss of 3D printer access.
Definitely interested in this. I'm a heavy macro user, and already implement many macros using F13-F24 keys. They don't actually exist on my board, but I get my Stream Decks and programs like Autohotkey to perform various virtual gymnastics and talk to each other by simulating and/or listening for those keys to trigger different things. I started doing this when I ran out of 'real' hotkeys to use :D Having an extra row of F keys would be just great (whether to map to real F13-F24 keys to make my life easier, or to use in addition to them). I really like the efficient layout too.
How does one go about obtaining one of these beautiful monstrosities?? :D
Nice work JucheCatgirlTS, Inner-Ear, and LeoneShamoth! Also really appreciate the build video you did LeoneShamoth!How does one go about obtaining one of these beautiful monstrosities?? :D
I've been selling B-stock PCBs, plates, and hardware kits - the people you see in this thread who are posting have 3D printed their own cases. Unfortunately haven't done a formal GB for either the 3D-printed or the metal versions yet. I'm still working on both of them. I apologize for how long this is taking (it's approaching a year since I posted the IC).
I do owe all of you a longer update, which and I'll have something more detailed probably this weekend. I've been spending the past month trying to figure out FCC regulations around selling keyboard kits, and figuring out whether I need to run this keyboard through EMI/RFI compliance testing (which would entail significant cost and likely entail some changes to the project, including probably another redesign and some changes to the supported features and options). So far the regulations, FCC guidance, and past FCC rulings appear to be contradictory, and it's probably fine if I'm selling/running a GB for kits of the current design without testing if they require a substantial amount of assembly, but I'm still trying to figure out what I should do regarding this moving forward, as it might still be best if I get the board through FCC testing. These regulations also have broad implications upon the broader custom keyboard hobby. Again I'll do a more detailed post in a couple of days explaining these regulations and what I'm thinking about moving forward.
The KLE pic is inaccurate when it comes to the gap between the top 2 rows and bottom 5 rows. The KLE shows the gap as being 0.5u, while the prototype pics show it as being 0.75u (I measured in Photoshop). Given there's an extra top row to reach, could the gap be shortened to be more like the KLE? Or even shorter? (On the Corsair K100 I'm using at the moment, the gap seems to be ~0.2u)
Does the detailed Boston city map engraving add to the production cost? If so, can it be made optional? It looks pretty cool, and would be awesome for people who have an emotional attachment to that city, but that's bound to be a minority, and it's also visually busy. No matter what, this beautiful behemoth will cost an arm and a leg, so I'd rather pay for features I'll actually benefit from (or even just for an increased profit margin for you) than for an engraving that will just lie forgotten collecting grime on the underside.
The screws on the front - they're pretty ugly. And I can imagine thumbs occasionally bumping into them as they rest or slide across the keyboard. Could they at least be made flush with the case surface?
What color will the plate for the plastic version be? There's a lot of reflection coming off it in some of the prototype pics, suggesting it's metal or perhaps white. Any chance there'll be a dark/black option?
What does "single-color LED backlight support" mean exactly? Does it mean that every key can have an LED, but their brightness/on/off state can't be controlled independently? Or does it mean that there'll be some LEDs dotted around the PCB independent of the keys, providing a general glow? If it's the former, then will color be changeable in some way (as a single 121-key group, not per-key) or will the color be set in stone by the physical color of the installed LEDs?
I like that the case isn't anodized. It would be easy/inexpensive to get it coated locally and makes for a nice customization option for people.
Oh my! I didn't realize there were plates available. I've got a large-format 3D printer and a dream, how does one get in on a beta?
So I've got one of the B-stock PCB kits but unfortunately I no longer have access to a 3D printer capable of printing the case for this bad boy. Since ordering a one-off from Shapeways is crazy expensive, will there be any option for ordering just a case during the GB, either metal or printed? I'm eager to build it out and start using it but I'm rather stuck at the moment until I can find a printer or until the GB starts.
Regardless, I'm really impressed with the design and I can't wait to start using mine :-)
will this ever run again?
~snip~
~snip~
Where did you get that encoder knob? It would go perfectly with mine.
~snip~That is beyond rad! Thank you!
Legalities aside, what are the practical consequences (if any) for a regular home user of the kind of radio interference you mention? Like, could they interfere with phone reception/wifi, or cause buzzing in audio speakers, or anything like that? Or is it basically an irrelevance, aside from the legal considerations?
...for my skidata relegendables
Again, this is beautiful, and it is getting harder and harder to find monster-size keyboards in this community lately where everything is about getting smaller, and we are spoiled for choice in the 60-65% category. I don't even see many 75% anymore. I have a keyset just for a 120% or larger collecting dust for over a year just waiting for a GB like this.For real. It's cartoonishly hard to find larger boards; I too have a 120% keyset that has been collecting dust in my closet for a little over a year now. :/
Here’s a clip to give people the sound of this keyboard with my Kailh Box Pink switches. I really love the sound and the feel with the FR4 plate.
Totally. Also, aside from the quantity of keys in question, the Boston simply has the smartest layout of any keyboard I've seen.
It knows to give the arrow keys some physical separation, but without the excessive wasted space of a regular full size, and without banishing the entire nav cluster to an inconvenient top corner like a traditional 1800.
And unlike all the hipster 60% boards it's smart enough to know that there's little practical benefit to conserving vertical real estate, so fully utilises that 2nd F-row while concentrating on conserving precious horizontal real estate instead.
The Boston layout simply makes more design sense than just about any other keyboard on the market IMO, at least for anyone who needs to do more than type a few emails. It should be the defacto standard rather than a niche outlier.
Yeah, I don't have any emotional connection to Boston, but even I think the map design is really cool, and will make an already awesome keyboard even more special. Though I wonder if it would be even better with some thinner line weights in areas. Like if the red area in the pic below had line weights more similar to those the green areas. I get that the red area is obviously a downtown area and has wider streets in real life. But at this scale, with such a high contrast between line and background, the detail seems to get a bit overwhelmed. Still cool though!Show Image(https://bit.ly/3xL1pP0)
I'm a complete philistine when it comes to industrial design, but the bottom edge didn't really bother me in those renders.
- Metal version redesign - currently focusing most of my available time getting this done. I'm a little stuck here visual design wise on how to get the angled bottom to be visually cohesive with the top - I'm a little unhappy with the visual cohesiveness and consistency between the various fillets, chamfered edges, and unchamfered edges on the bottom and side cutouts right now. I'm going to try modeling some other ideas later this week to see how they look, but might just end up going with the current design.
It's also very reflective of the chaotic mess that is Boston's street layout. Trust me, I commute there every day.Yeah, I don't have any emotional connection to Boston, but even I think the map design is really cool, and will make an already awesome keyboard even more special. Though I wonder if it would be even better with some thinner line weights in areas. Like if the red area in the pic below had line weights more similar to those the green areas. I get that the red area is obviously a downtown area and has wider streets in real life. But at this scale, with such a high contrast between line and background, the detail seems to get a bit overwhelmed. Still cool though!Show Image(https://bit.ly/3xL1pP0)
I like it as is... the reflective nature of it is striking with the bold lines. It's an art piece, more striking in person. Not intended to be a navigational aid.(...)
Looking forward to the alu version! Here is some input from me, in case you are interested: I would prefer the overhang of the top part to be either bigger or smaller. If it is bigger it looks more like it is floating. If it is smaller (not there) it looks like one big piece (like the 3d printed version). If it is there I would pull it down in the front so the front is only the overhang, without the lower part visible.
You are probably settled on the layout, but my small complaint about it is the white space on the right of the arrow keys. It not symmetric and looks not pleasant to me. Like a little accident. Maybe move the three keys a little to the right, add a fourth on the bottom and fill the gap this way? Not sure this would work. Or take a slice of the rect1800. They pushed the three keys to the numpad on the right. This works great as well.
I tried changing the overhang to a seam and I actually liked how it looked. Definitely appreciate your suggestion! I will probably incorporate this into the final design.
This is how the metal version is looking right now - I played around with different side/bottom profiles and ended up liking this one.
This is an interest check for a compact 120% keyboard I'm working on, with a layout inspired by the Driftmechanics Austin (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=102542.0). This is the first custom keyboard I've designed, though I have a mechanical engineering background and have done other electronics projects before.Show Image(https://github.com/bluepylons/Boston/blob/master/graphics/bostonKLE.png?raw=true)
The original post is a bit outdated - please see this update (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.msg3059822#msg3059822). I will update the original page when I have time.
There will be two case options - a CNC aluminum one, and a 3D-printed/FR4 one.
General Specifications:
- 121-keys - full-size + 18 programmable keys
- About 2u narrower than a regular full-size
- Traditional 2x3 Ins/Del/Home/End/PgUp/PgDn nav block
- Full-sized numpad with 2u "0" key
- ISO, split-backspace, split 0, and numpad = key support (on universal plate)
- Rotary encoder support, above the Esc key
- USB-C
- STM32F072 controller
- QMK and Vial support (Vial is currently in beta)
- Optional single-color LED backlight support
- Single RGBLED to indicate layer status
- Electrical schematic and firmware largely derived from the Austin. Case and PCB are different.
3D-printed/FR4 version:
- 4-piece 3D-printed case, with FR4 bottom panel. STL and STEP files are available on the Github here if you want to print it yourself - you need a minimum 200 long x 150 wide x 210mm tall mm build area, which is achievable by many budget printers (e.g. Ender 3). Prototypes were printed on an Ender 3.
- Colors depend on what color PLA/PLA+ filament I can have access to , but will probably be offering a variety of colors
- Top mount (technically, though an unusual implementation of it)
- FR4 plate only
- 6.5° typing angle
Sound test of the 3D-printed/FR4 version (with Cherry MX Clears,spring ends lubed with Permatex dielectric grease, rails lubed with u/hbheroinbob's Loob-3g, and filmed with Deskey films. Stabilizers are C3Equalz. GMK Bingsu installed)
IC Form specifically for the 3D-printed version only (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeIJ2jjQXNM53C7ovwoUKfZ9U1PVOrajU6r16sreuFScfQhMQ/viewform?usp=sf_link)
FCC 47 CFR § 2.803(c)(2)(iii) disclaimer:QuoteThis device has not been authorized in the United States as required by the rules of the Federal Communications Commission. This device is not, and may not be, offered for sale or lease, or sold or leased in the United States, until authorization is obtained.
Prototype pics of the 3D-printed/FR4 version (with OG Cherry WoB and GMK Neon RGBY mods)
(Attachment Link)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250894;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250896;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250898;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250900;image)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250902;image)
(the one on the left is an older aluminum prototype)Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106501.0;attach=250904;image)
CNC aluminum version
The design for the aluminum version is being reworked again - please see this update (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.msg3059822#msg3059822). I will update the specs below once that design is done, but the older specs are below:
- 3-piece CNC aluminum case, with
bottom brass weight(edit: due to the size of the keyboard it's more than heavy enough with everything made out of aluminum, so a brass bottom is unlikely at this point)- Top-mount
- Knob will be underlit with an RGBLED, to indicate layer status (or whatever other purpose you want to use it for)
- Tentatively intending to offer clear (silver) and black anodization, which were the two most requested colors. Dark gray was the third most requested color on the old IC form, and might also be offered.
- Brass plate. This was by far the most popular requested plate material. I'll publish plate DXF files if people want to make plates using other materials.
- 6.4° typing angle. 0° with the bottom weight removed (there will be bumpon cutouts for 0° if so desired.
Thanks everyone for filling out the IC Form on the aluminum version. I've gotten more than enough feedback on that one, so I took down the IC Form for the aluminum version.
I apologize for not having keycaps or fasteners, and for the generally rushed nature of the renders below. I'm not great with renders, and I've been very busy lately and would prefer to spend time either working on the design or the prototypes. I'll update these with prototype pics once it's built.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
With black mid and bottom pieces:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Pictures of the older aluminum case (this was an older design that put the controller on a separate PCB. This particular proto is also missing its RGB indicator light and its rotary encoder). I will not be running this:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
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(Attachment Link)
The layout for this was inspired by the Austin and also by the 7-row Thinkpad keyboard (http://www.notebookreview.com/picture/?f=60846) you find on Thinkpads of the T420 generation and older. The name is somewhat a pun off Austin since the layout is derived from it, and because I grew up (and currently live) near the city Boston, Massachusetts.
This project uses the open-source Acheron library from the Acheron project (http://acheronproject.com/). KiCAD PCB files are available at my Github below. STL files and STEP files of the 3D-printed version are available here below under the CERN OHL-W (which is fairly permissive), and you are free to use the files to make one yourself. Unfortunately, due to arrangements I'm working out with my manufacturer and vendor, it is unlikely that the metal case will be open-sourced as originally planned.
https://github.com/bluepylons/Boston
Unfortunately,
Many thanks to Gondolindrim for the Acheron project and for feedback on the early PCBs, and to the designers of the Driftmechanics Austin (Driftingbunnies, PheonixStarr and Gondolindrim) from which this was derived. Also thank you to all 129 people that filled out the old IC form - your feedback was definitely appreciated. At this point I've collected more than enough data, so I took down the form.
MouserPounder made a signature graphic if people want to put these in their signatures (this has a picture of the older prototype)Code: [Select][url=https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106501.0][img width=304 height=120]https://i.imgur.com/LYOA5Fp.jpg[/img][/url]
(post revisions)
May 20, 2020 - Initial post
May 20, 2020 - Replaced renders with ones that accurately depict the seam in the middle
May 29, 2020 - Moved F-keys over rightward slightly. Bottom weight is now aluminum instead of brass as the keyboard is pretty heavy to begin with.
June 2, 2020 - Corrected some references to the Austin
June 19, 2020 - Added pictures of prototype (without LEDs or rotary encoder installed)
June 20, 2020 - Added signature link that MousePounder made
July 4, 2020 - Updated signature link
July 12, 2020 - Reorganized feature list, added plate files to Github
August 16, 2020 - Shortened title
September 3, 2020 - Revised post significantly. Removed a lot of outdated info. Added pictures of the 3D-printed version
September 5, 2020 - Fixed required build area to 3D print the case (I overstated the necessary build area). Added some rough tentative pricing for the 3D-printed version. Added IC Form for 3D-printed version.
October 12, 2020 - Added sound test of the 3D-printed version.
January 25, 2021 - Some minor edits, added top pictures of the 3D printed version
February 5, 2021 - Updated the IC in general, removed a lot of out-of-date info. Changed license to CERN OHL-W.
March 27, 2021 - Removed prices
April 11, 2021 - Added FCC disclaimer
I would honestly like a raw machined finish
Would the feet be easily replaceable?
any update on a metal case version? i really like the 3d printed version, but a nice premium aluminum case would only make this better.
Also, as mentioned above, what is the light for next to the rotary encoder?
May I ask how much did you pay for prototyping the CNC alu case, I am interested in this board, let me know the price since I would love to make the alu case. Though if it is out of my budget, I could still do the 3d printed one. ;D ;D
Hello pylon, would you consider also adding a 100% standard layout version, if this project goes on?
Hello pylon, would you consider also adding a 100% standard layout version, if this project goes on?
Pretty unlikely as I'm busy with a couple of other projects right now.
Have you checked out the Dino104? There's also the Austin, though that's not a traditional full size. There's also QMK-compatible controller replacements (e.g. Black Petal) for some Filco and Rosewill full-sized boards. There's also open-source replacement PCBs for the G80-3000, and there's also the NKBM-ST110r2.1 replacement PCB for Filcos and Rosewills (though that requires working with text-only QMK)
Unfortunately the PCBs and prototype will likely be delayed as I fractured my right arm in a bike crash. I'm going to see how well I can solder with my left hand, but it may be delayed several weeks until things heal up.Damn! That sucks get well soon!
Thanks Volny for taking the plunge! Let me know how it goes!
Various updates:More
- I received a prototype case from SuNPe, in raw unfinished aluminum. I still haven't sent out the PCB or plate order though as I'm wrapping up a few things on the design, so I'm still at least 2 weeks out on those parts. I unfortunately have various issues with the quality of this prototype (the top is about 0.5mm longer than the bottom despite matching in CAD, and although raw aluminum is quite soft and easily scratched, the number of scratches overall is pretty concerning in terms of how they might be handling the cases, which would not be acceptable in a group buy). I was hoping to offer a raw aluminum option, but seeing how scuffed it is that is unlikely without some major waivers/disclaimers.
- As mentioned, still wrapping up design on the metal version's PCB, plate, and daughterboard. The daughterboard is compatible with the C3 Universal Daughterboard (same footprint, pinouts, etc.), though I'm making some minor tweaks to try to get better EMI performance (in case I need to run this through FCC or CE emissions testing).
Pics of the case:
(Attachment Link)
I'll be ordering a second prototype with a standard matte bead-blasted finish with anodization after I build this one up and get some time on it. I'm debating trying to laser etch the map of Boston on the back of the metal one - this would be really nice, but I'm pretty worried about whether it'll come out well, and it would add cost and be another item to QC. I've seen some pretty good quality laser marks on other items I own (e.g. my Motu M2 audio interface's items are all lasered, and the quality is excellent), but am not sure how to replicate it.
Unfortunately the PCBs and prototype will likely be delayed as I fractured my right arm in a bike crash. I'm going to see how well I can solder with my left hand, but it may be delayed several weeks until things heal up.
I really like the new metal case design, can't wait! I have a couple nice aluminum TKLs now but the Boston is still my everyday board at my home PC. I just swapped the U4Ts out for Cherry MX Blacks, here's a quick video to ring in the new year:
Wow, this thing is big. Has the price been hinted at anywhere? I love that you released the 3d printer files!
Moving forward, I need to:
- Get a second case proto with a sandblasted, anodized case. I also plan on fixing some minor issues on the 2nd proto (the front bumpon pocket is a little too small for instance). This may be with a different manufacturer (I used SuNPe for the proto).
- Figure out FCC/CE EMI testing and get some quotes with some testing labs. I wrote up about EMI testing laws and regulations (and the likely dubious legal status of most custom mechanical keyboards) on Keebtalk (https://www.keebtalk.com/t/your-custom-keyboard-is-probably-illegal-a-long-post-on-radio-interference-testing-regulations-and-keyboards/16104). I would like to comply with those laws and regulations and actually do the interference testing. This adds time, complexity, and quite a bit of cost, and imposes a bunch of constraints (e.g. I might have to sell this with a fixed layout plate to avoid testing every layout configuration, which would add a lot of testing costs, and have open-source universal plate files published online that people would have to get cut themselves if they want to). This may also cause issues with international availability - the US, EU, and Canada have separate EMI testing regulations and require different tests to legally sell keebs in their jurisdictions, and it likely won't make financial sense to get approval with every jurisdiction (e.g. I received a $3000 quote for CE testing for Europe, and I'm not particularly confident I can make that $3000 back in EU sales). It may end up being US restricted if I only pay for FCC testing (which is still likely $2000+), and you'll have to find a 3rd-party proxy/forwarder or something if you're trying to get this from abroad (e.g. I can't legally sell directly in Europe without CE testing). If these constraints are too problematic (or if the testing ends up simply being too expensive), I am considering just open-sourcing the files metal version and writing up an ordering guide just like the 3D printed version, which would probably preclude a group buy or other sale.
- Compile a final bill of materials, and figure out pricing.
- Work things out with a vendor (there's been some tentative talks with a vendor but nothing's concrete yet).
- There's a chance I run this in-stock, though this is still TBD.
Even unfinished, love that metal board! Created this account for this project, looking forward to what come of it. Take as long as you need!
Hey everyone - the proto is built and working. Some dusty photos:Ah damn it's a major shame if you cannot sell it in EU I own a Austin and use it as my main board I would love a bigger version
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I maybe do a sound test later this week. The switches were lubed a bit inconsistently though so I may do more work on it, but it's enough to evaluate the proto.
Moving forward, I need to:
- Get a second case proto with a sandblasted, anodized case. I also plan on fixing some minor issues on the 2nd proto (the front bumpon pocket is a little too small for instance). This may be with a different manufacturer (I used SuNPe for the proto).
- Figure out FCC/CE EMI testing and get some quotes with some testing labs. I wrote up about EMI testing laws and regulations (and the likely dubious legal status of most custom mechanical keyboards) on Keebtalk (https://www.keebtalk.com/t/your-custom-keyboard-is-probably-illegal-a-long-post-on-radio-interference-testing-regulations-and-keyboards/16104). I would like to comply with those laws and regulations and actually do the interference testing. This adds time, complexity, and quite a bit of cost, and imposes a bunch of constraints (e.g. I might have to sell this with a fixed layout plate to avoid testing every layout configuration, which would add a lot of testing costs, and have open-source universal plate files published online that people would have to get cut themselves if they want to). This may also cause issues with international availability - the US, EU, and Canada have separate EMI testing regulations and require different tests to legally sell keebs in their jurisdictions, and it likely won't make financial sense to get approval with every jurisdiction (e.g. I received a $3000 quote for CE testing for Europe, and I'm not particularly confident I can make that $3000 back in EU sales). It may end up being US restricted if I only pay for FCC testing (which is still likely $2000+), and you'll have to find a 3rd-party proxy/forwarder or something if you're trying to get this from abroad (e.g. I can't legally sell directly in Europe without CE testing). If these constraints are too problematic (or if the testing ends up simply being too expensive), I am considering just open-sourcing the files metal version and writing up an ordering guide just like the 3D printed version, which would probably preclude a group buy or other sale.
- Compile a final bill of materials, and figure out pricing.
- Work things out with a vendor (there's been some tentative talks with a vendor but nothing's concrete yet).
- There's a chance I run this in-stock, though this is still TBD.
Thank you for all your hard work, sad that the GB didn't make it but the keyboard still lives on! Is there any chance that we can support you as a designer other than GB? Seriously the whole Github link is a gold mine and you even plan to do a full assembly video too! Big UPS
Pylon, thank you again for a most awesome input device :) I was wondering if there is any interest in a southpaw version (we could call it southie :) ) I did a quick mockup in KLE:
(Attachment Link)
I am just getting back into KiCad and started playing with the Acheron libs today. I figure there is two possible routes we could go with something like this:
1) design a whole new PCB, probably best to do the daughterboard version and modify the 3d printed case to mount the daughter board
2) look at splitting the PCB into three sections (the 65% center seciton, numpad and dual F-keys). This would allow us to only have one set of boards and rearrange them to suit. At this point, it is just an idea floating in my head and I would probably need to sit down and do some scale layouts to see how feasible this second idea really is.
Hi All,
Now that the group buy rush is over, I plan on carrying the 3D-printed Boston (with 0.7J PCBs) as an in-stock item in my store. Expect about a week lead time as these are printed to order. Big thanks to Pylon for all his hard work + open sourcing this project.
https://rndkbd.com/products/boston-keyboard-kit
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/10z5ivm/ic_rndkbd_metal_boston_120_keyboard/
Worthwhile checking in here and seeing if the GB ever happened / if it's yet to happen.
Any chance we can just buy the case or is it kits only?
Last day for the Alu Boston: https://rndkbd.com/products/gb-boston-120-compact-keyboard-kit