[IC] Wood Filco TKL / Phantom case

[nilpt]

...
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)
...

I like this very much, specially if the left and right are really on the sides and not on the top face.
This can let you put the keyboard really close to a laptop, for instance.
What is your idea on this?

[tubby]

I'm just happy I could contribute in some way to your very impressive project! 

You're being too kind. My sincere thanks once again, strict. Enjoy your ride with the new tires

Ah, I see. I guess I could live with the small angle without the feet poped out.

I still hope there is a solution that keeps the costs as low as possible

So you won't mind the angled design? =D
As for pushing the cost down, seeing that you like to have minimum tilt, I can exclude the adjustable feet and reduce the cost slightly.
It will be minimal though as the aforementioned price have everything baked in, including molds/jigs, research time, funky contraption....
So it wouldn't be fair on my part if I have to cut down a huge chunk of the price every time someone requests a component removed, if you understand what I mean ^^; plus it will actually be extra work as every different request have to be made separately =)
But if it means a lot to shave off $10-30, I can try to look into where I can cut corners, hopefully not too much on the product itself, but on other stuffs that I have planned to include with every purchase.
For example, I'm planning to place order for custom boxes for safe shipping. I can try to reuse available boxes instead.
I plan to include required hex keys so those who don't have them handy can start assembling once they receive their case. I can exclude those.
They won't be much, but it adds up.
Let me know if that is good for you... or if the community prefers it that way too.

I like this very much, specially if the left and right are really on the sides and not on the top face.
This can let you put the keyboard really close to a laptop, for instance.
What is your idea on this?

Yes, for the left/right route, the cable will jut out from the sides =)
I will try to get pictures of them tomorrow, but mind you that this currently only applies for the Phantom case.
When using the default Filco cable, it can only be routed straight up from the centre of the case.
I plan on making custom cables to make it possible for the Filco to have its cable routed to the sides, but I can't promise anything before actually putting it to work =)

Edit:
Here is the photo to show how the cable would stick out when routed to the side, and also how it would look as a Filco case.
When routed to the side, the cable will leave the keyboard at a 45º angle so the cable can go straight horizontally, straight vertically, or angled without much tension.

[nilpt]

Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist.

[terrpn]

any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.

if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco

what about mahogany while i am asking?

[tubby]

Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist.

I remember seeing someone offering custom braided Filco cables (the ones with the 5pin molex connector). Those could more than likely make use of the side cable routes, but if the lengths encased within the case is also braided, I might have to make the cable routes slightly wider and deeper.  Currently the cable routes can snuggly fit cables up to 5mm in diameter.
An "integrated" female miniUSB port would be for the V2 of the case =) However, it will be at the expense of losing the 45º angle and the current plan is to only have one port at the back side of the case (most likely at the top right hand side of the case). 
Thanks for the compliment, nilpt. I sure hope I can see this through... and eventually get to the V2 in the not-so-distant future =)

any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.

if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco

what about mahogany while i am asking?

I don't currently own a QFR to make measurements of them and they have the miniUSB female port at the centre of the bottom case which I have yet to figure out how to implement on a wood case.
However, I'm looking forward to get a WASD V2 87 (once they restock the clear MX that is) and will look into whether or not it will be possible to make a wood case for it. Their miniUSB port look largely similar to a QFR, so if a WASD case is possible, I don't see why a QFR wouldn't be =)

As for mahogany, they do grow locally and are widely available. However, I'd rather not have them as an option because native mahogany durability are locally rated as class II-III wood (some sources even rate them as class VI-V), hardness class III, average specific gravity of 0.64.
As opposed to Indian Rosewood with durability of class II, hardness class I (some II), avg. specific gravity 0.90. And Ebony durability I, hardness I, avg. specific gravity 1.05.
And I can promise you, the wood grains on both Ebony and Indian Rosewood are a lot more beautiful than that of the local Mahogany
btw... very nice collection, terrpn!

[ApocalypseMaow]

Idaian Rosewood PLEASE!!!
I need dat heavy!!!

[tubby]

Idaian Rosewood PLEASE!!!
I need dat heavy!!!

Now we're talking
Would appreciate it if you could sign your interest in the Google form, and yes, paw prints would be fine

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Just to give a rough idea what to expect in terms of the weight of the case.

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All are weighed without all proper screws installed and without cables. And this is the Ebony case. I expect an Indian Rosewood case would only be slightly lighter.

Weight of the bare bone case


Weight of the case + 1.5mm stainless steel plate


Weight of the case + 1.5mm plate + Phantom PCB + 87 switches


Weight of the case + Filco TKL innards.


They are nowhere as heavy as aluminum cases, but will be about 50% heavier from a default Filco TKL

==============

The response sheet shows that most are planning to use it as a Filco case. And the small number of people interested in it for a Phantom are further divided into 2 equal parties; that is 1/2 wanting a ANSI125 plate, while the other 1/2 are interested in an ANSI150 plate.
This could pose a bit of a problem.
I am planning to let this IC run for about another week or two before I start getting the wood materials to fulfill the 1st batch, and judging on the interests so far, the number of plate orders don't look like they will reach a reasonable amount before then.
We could push to only have 1 type of layout for the 1st batch.... or we could try to please both parties if I may propose to you.....

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an ANSI"175" layout


Only the circled bit needs to be grind off if used for an ANSI125 layout, which I can do for you, or if you prefer, you do it yourself should you haven't decide on your Phantom layout =)

The google form have been revised. Feel free to refill the form should you not mind this approach.
I will, of course, be testing the plate layout first before producing them in numbers.
Please kindly type your ID in so I can have the previous entry removed. Thank you.

[xavierblak]

I'd probably be happy with either solution.

Has you thought about making the case compatible with existing Phantom/Universal plates? I'd guess most people who have a phantom waiting for a case already have a plate.

Also what makes the current plates incompatible? Would something like this adapter work to make the plate fit in the case?

[tubby]

Also what makes the current plates incompatible?

My apologies for the delayed reply, xavierblak. The above very question is actually something I've never asked myself before, so I have to test it out before having it answered.

I faced some hurdles while trying to design the case around existing plates, so I went to design my own plate and have always been under the impression that only my custom plate would fit the case. But I haven't actually given them a try.... not until just now.
And turns out the Phantom plate that I got from WFD could be dropped straight into the case =)

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So these plates could very well be used with the case =)

I will try to confirm this tomorrow.
I have a Filco which uses an aluminum Universal plate (also gotten from WFD), which I wasn't too fond of because the alu plate makes the typing feel feels flimsy. This wood case have those circuitry-like patterns, planned to provide a good area of support to the PCB.
So this would be a good test to see if the Filco innards + alu Universal plate is compatible with the case and also to see whether those PCB support serves their purpose and be able to give a more solid typing feel.
I will try to test this out tomorrow and report my findings, hopefully with a video of test sounds.
Thank you for bringing this up, xavierblak!

I don't quite understand the link to the "adapter" though. The link appears to bit pointing to a 60% plate.

[xavierblak]

I will try to test this out tomorrow and report my findings, hopefully with a video of test sounds.
Thank you for bringing this up, xavierblak!

I don't quite understand the link to the "adapter" though. The link appears to bit pointing to a 60% plate.

Cool. I'll look forward to see how this works out.

Sorry about the adapter link. What I meant to link to was this thread. I'm not 100% certain on how it works but I believe it's a plastic strip that fits between the plate and the pcb. It doesn't go flush with the plate and pcb so it provides a lip so that is can rest on the inside of the vortex case.

[agodinhost]

fantastic work man
out of my price range but you deserve some few words of incentive!
awesome!

[tubby]

Cool. I'll look forward to see how this works out.

Sorry about the adapter link. What I meant to link to was this thread. I'm not 100% certain on how it works but I believe it's a plastic strip that fits between the plate and the pcb. It doesn't go flush with the plate and pcb so it provides a lip so that is can rest on the inside of the vortex case.

Ah, that adapter =) If I understand the purpose of them correctly, they seem to provide extension lips so the Phantom plates can sit on top of the Vortex frame? If that is true, it is kind of the opposite from my case, which actually requires the Phantom plate to be marginally smaller than the middle frame.

But.... great news.... The Universal plate is compatible with my case after all!

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This is my Filco that has its plate replaced with an alu Universal Plate.


And said Filco placed and screwed in the wood case.

The entire internal components will only be held by the two 2mm screws (circled in cyan) though, as opposed to having 9 additional 3mm screws, screwed to the middle metal frame when the custom plate is used (circled in yellow).
However, it could still be quite sufficient as it is how the Universal plate was intended to be used in a Filco case.

And the other good news is, the typing feel is a fair bit improved when moved from the Filco to the wood case. The non-stabilized keys feel crispier and is no longer as muted as when in a Filco case. The same, however, couldn't be said with the stabilized keys. They still feel mushy and have the unsatisfying 'thud' - purely subjective as the stabilizers are replaced with Cherry stabs, and I am never a fan of them, even after they have been clipped. However, they no longer feel (and sound) hollow in general.

Below is a video to demonstrate the sound difference between the two.
White Cherry MX + lubed (Krytox GPL103/205 in 1:1 ratio) + stickered

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fantastic work man
out of my price range but you deserve some few words of incentive!
awesome!

Thank you very much for the kind words of encouragement, agondinhost.

[xavierblak]

But.... great news.... The Universal plate is compatible with my case after all!

Awesome. I assume the plate you designed would probably be the best choice but this sounds like a good option for people looking to save having to buy another plate.

Been looking for a good case for my phantom. Hope this become a reality.

[terrpn]

Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist.

I remember seeing someone offering custom braided Filco cables (the ones with the 5pin molex connector). Those could more than likely make use of the side cable routes, but if the lengths encased within the case is also braided, I might have to make the cable routes slightly wider and deeper.  Currently the cable routes can snuggly fit cables up to 5mm in diameter.
An "integrated" female miniUSB port would be for the V2 of the case =) However, it will be at the expense of losing the 45º angle and the current plan is to only have one port at the back side of the case (most likely at the top right hand side of the case). 
Thanks for the compliment, nilpt. I sure hope I can see this through... and eventually get to the V2 in the not-so-distant future =)

any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.

if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco

what about mahogany while i am asking?

I don't currently own a QFR to make measurements of them and they have the miniUSB female port at the centre of the bottom case which I have yet to figure out how to implement on a wood case.
However, I'm looking forward to get a WASD V2 87 (once they restock the clear MX that is) and will look into whether or not it will be possible to make a wood case for it. Their miniUSB port look largely similar to a QFR, so if a WASD case is possible, I don't see why a QFR wouldn't be =)

As for mahogany, they do grow locally and are widely available. However, I'd rather not have them as an option because native mahogany durability are locally rated as class II-III wood (some sources even rate them as class VI-V), hardness class III, average specific gravity of 0.64.
As opposed to Indian Rosewood with durability of class II, hardness class I (some II), avg. specific gravity 0.90. And Ebony durability I, hardness I, avg. specific gravity 1.05.
And I can promise you, the wood grains on both Ebony and Indian Rosewood are a lot more beautiful than that of the local Mahogany
btw... very nice collection, terrpn!

thanks for the heads up

if this actually takes off it would be worth grabbing a filco and i appreciate your wood choice, sounds much better

[smnanthny]

Beautiful case!

I have quick question though and apologies if it's already been answered, I didn't go through all of the comments:

How do you source your wood and is it sustainable?

The only reason I ask is that I was interested in Mahogany but recently learnt that it's illegally logged in the Amazon and is protected quite heavily. I'd be interested to learn about the wood you're using.

Thanks!

[tubby]

Awesome. I assume the plate you designed would probably be the best choice but this sounds like a good option for people looking to save having to buy another plate.

Been looking for a good case for my phantom. Hope this become a reality.

Yes, will be a great option for those looking to save, and will also make things alot easier for those already having a built Phantom as they won’t be needing to dissemble/reassemble their kit =)
Thank you for your support, xavierblak

thanks for the heads up

if this actually takes off it would be worth grabbing a filco and i appreciate your wood choice, sounds much better

My pleasure, terrpn 
I’m rather surprised there’s not a Filco in your expansive collection

Beautiful case!

I have quick question though and apologies if it's already been answered, I didn't go through all of the comments:

How do you source your wood and is it sustainable?

The only reason I ask is that I was interested in Mahogany but recently learnt that it's illegally logged in the Amazon and is protected quite heavily. I'd be interested to learn about the wood you're using.

Thanks!

Thank you, smnanthny.

No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.

Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.

As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.

[Elrick]

No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.

Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.

As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.

I wanted Ebony Wood but because of it's current status then my next selections (let me know if you could get them) would be Bubinga, Koa (Brilliant when it comes to keeping it's original shape), Genuine Mahogany (NOT Phillippine's version), Purpleheart or Persimmon.

That are my selections for this future keyboard, please let me know which wood can be found 'legally' in your country  .

[smnanthny]

Thank you, smnanthny.

No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.

Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.

As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.

Awesome, that's good to know you're aware of where your wood is sourced

I was equally surprised about mahogany because like you said, there's a lot of products on the market but that is the problem, it's in huge demand and for no particularly good reason. The problem is how much deforestation has occured within just a few generations which is being done so illegally.

[stoic-lemon]

Beautiful. I will be following this with great interest.

[tubby]

I am deeply sorry for the lack of updates and for the delayed replies. I was hoping to give a response once I can be certain of what type of wood I could get, but as it turns out, Indian Rosewoods are difficult to obtain as most suppliers don't entertain small quantity purchases. I am waiting for a reply from another Indian Rosewood supplier who promised to get back to me sometime this week. I'll keep my fingers crossed for that.

On a brighter side.... I am introduced to a supplier who is able to supply wide Ebony planks
The Ebony is of a different species and I am unable to confirm its scientific name, but this is how they look =)

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The furthermost reddish plank is from the previous batch which is the batch I made the prototype Ebony case with (wood species is Diospyros celebica).
The two more neutral colored boards are the newly acquired Ebony wood.
And the square blank below it, is a sample of Diospyros celebica from the current supplier. The deeper color saturation might be due to higher moisture content, but they are doubtful that they have wide enough wood supply for that species.
Personally, I'm liking the neutral colored Ebony more, particularly because of their more exotic grain patterns.
I'm currently negotiating pricing for that species as their asking price is considerably higher compared to how much I got my last Ebony stock for (albeit of different species). If I can get a good enough price from them, it'll most likely be the choice of wood for those who opt for an Ebony case =)

I wanted Ebony Wood but because of it's current status then my next selections (let me know if you could get them) would be Bubinga, Koa (Brilliant when it comes to keeping it's original shape), Genuine Mahogany (NOT Phillippine's version), Purpleheart or Persimmon.

That are my selections for this future keyboard, please let me know which wood can be found 'legally' in your country  .

Koa and Bubinga would make a nice case/rest, and Purpleheart appears to have a nice level of hardness. But sadly, I am having a hard time trying to find information what they are locally called. And from the information I read, it is more than likely that none of the wood are from trees native to my country ^^;
However, it'll just be a matter of price, but it is very likely that I can get a good supply of the neutral colored Ebony.... legally too

Awesome, that's good to know you're aware of where your wood is sourced

I was equally surprised about mahogany because like you said, there's a lot of products on the market but that is the problem, it's in huge demand and for no particularly good reason. The problem is how much deforestation has occured within just a few generations which is being done so illegally.

Sad to hear there a still a lot of illegal loggings occurring, but happy to inform that the current Ebony supplier I'm in contact with have permits for their wood

Beautiful. I will be following this with great interest.

Thank you for your interest.
I apologize for the slow progress though. I am hoping that things will progress a lot faster once I get my wood supply.

[LechnerDE]

Thanks for the update 

[JaccoW]

These look awesome. I am unable to spend that kind of money for the next few months but I would love one in the darker colours.

[tubby]

Thanks for the update 

Pleasure 

These look awesome. I am unable to spend that kind of money for the next few months but I would love one in the darker colours.

Thank you.
I am still trying to obtain some Indian Rosewood samples, but both Indian Rosewood and Ebony are darker type of woods, and even more so after they are finished.
However, Ebony is most likely the darker of the two, but sadly they will be costlier.

[Elrick]

Koa and Bubinga would make a nice case/rest, and Purpleheart appears to have a nice level of hardness. But sadly, I am having a hard time trying to find information what they are locally called. And from the information I read, it is more than likely that none of the wood are from trees native to my country ^^;
However, it'll just be a matter of price, but it is very likely that I can get a good supply of the neutral colored Ebony.... legally too

I do know that Koa is Hawaiian and it is really expensive to get.  But worth it due to it's rarity and immense strength when used as a case to house keyboard bit's and pieces.

If you can easily get Ebony then sign me up for that but the pieces have to be of sufficient width and depth to mill out successfully without chipping or breakage.  The cutting head you will be using must be FIRST class so that it won't damage the edge of the wood when cut or sawn through.

Nothing worse than getting a brilliant sample of wood and it's destroyed by a third rate cutting edge because no one wants to pay up for a BRAND new cutting head.

I've seen valuable pieces of wood totally destroyed because the cutter was really cheap and nasty when it came to working through the material.  Usually a registered carpenter knows how to cut and finish wood due to years of experience and they don't go cheap when it comes to using quality cutting tools and keeping them extremely sharp always.

As you know wood is not a forgiving material because once you make that first cut that would determine whether it will be bought and used or thrown into a stove for kindling.

[tubby]

I do know that Koa is Hawaiian and it is really expensive to get.  But worth it due to it's rarity and immense strength when used as a case to house keyboard bit's and pieces.

If you can easily get Ebony then sign me up for that but the pieces have to be of sufficient width and depth to mill out successfully without chipping or breakage.  The cutting head you will be using must be FIRST class so that it won't damage the edge of the wood when cut or sawn through.

Nothing worse than getting a brilliant sample of wood and it's destroyed by a third rate cutting edge because no one wants to pay up for a BRAND new cutting head.

I've seen valuable pieces of wood totally destroyed because the cutter was really cheap and nasty when it came to working through the material.  Usually a registered carpenter knows how to cut and finish wood due to years of experience and they don't go cheap when it comes to using quality cutting tools and keeping them extremely sharp always.

As you know wood is not a forgiving material because once you make that first cut that would determine whether it will be bought and used or thrown into a stove for kindling.

If your interest for Koa wood is mainly because of its strength, Ebony should indulge you as wood-database claims that Ebony's Janka hardness level is almost trifold that of Koa

Material dimension wise, here are some shots of the prototype parts from the teak case, placed on top of the Ebony boards just to put into perspective the size of materials to be used.

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The base material is thick enough so excess material is rather minimal. Larger excess was prepared for the top/bottom plate however, since they are of thinner material.
But sufficient thickness will be given to all parts, so much so that over 60% of the materials will go to "waste" (I rather not consider it a waste )
Pls don't mind about the cracks visible on the thinner material. This particular sample was most likely damaged during shipment as it may have been too thin to be shipped by air parcel. Future material will be delivered as planks at multiples of 2-4 its current thickness.

As for the cutting materials, here is a close up shot of the unfinished Ebony prototype that have not been given any sanding. Hopefully it'll be a good enough picture to scrutinize and gauge the integrity of the cutting tool. If this is acceptable, we will try to keep the cuts consistent to this.

Appreciate your insights, Elrick.
Do let me know if there are other things you are concern with and should there be more details that I need to pay attention before getting these produced

[witbliz]

Super lovely casing .. Will buy one however might need to save up for a few months beforehand. Agree that the darker wood is much more appealing

[taylordcraig]

I would love an ebony case.
I put unsure for the plate.

edit: omg please have it wkl with 1.5 mods and little 1u wood nubs covering.

[AKmalamute]

Way outside my price range, but they do look nice. Myself, I have a phantom that I'm using caseless -- just laying the bare PCB on my lap for gaming. I plan on building a 7-bit layout phantom next, and having a case of some form would be very nice.

Again I'm poor, I'm sorta planning on cutting a section of plywood, gluing some molding that will let the PCB in but stop at the plate ... and figure some way to secure the plate to the plywood. Probably very long woodscrews. Yes you can stop wincing now I'm done.

Good luck with your wood endeavors!

[Manchias]

Nice case. IF you open a GB, please let me know.

[Jersern]

I quite like the design. I quite like the teak look (without the staining). Is it possible that such a case can be offered without staining but with a lovely coat of lacquer. Could it possible even be slightly.... cheaper? 

[kitsun8]

Man I wish I was rich already

[ControlledBurn]

Oh man, that's gorgeous. I told myself I wasn't going to let myself make this an expensive hobby, but I think this is too amazing to pass up.

[tubby]

My deepest apologies for my absence and for the lack of updates. Was faced with an unfortunate incident so the project was put on hold =(
I, however, have been trying to get this back on track since the past few weeks and have currently obtained a good supply of rosewood, although most of them are not as dry nor as dark-colored as I want them to be.
I have also procured some ebony wood, but I was told that shipping will be delayed from the supplier for an indefinite time.
In the meantime, I will be air drying the rosewood planks and will start working on them once they are sufficiently dry.
Will post updates here once I get something done.
Here is a photo of some of the rosewoods that I will be working with. A good percentage of them have colors similar to the planks to the right

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Super lovely casing .. Will buy one however might need to save up for a few months beforehand. Agree that the darker wood is much more appealing

Thank you for the kind words and for the interest. Sadly the rosewood supply that I currently have are on the lighter side.
Hopefully, I will have received the ebony woods by the time you have saved enough =)

I would love an ebony case.
I put unsure for the plate.

edit: omg please have it wkl with 1.5 mods and little 1u wood nubs covering.

Thank you for your interest.
In regards to the plate layout, I will need to discuss it further when the time comes but from the current responses, most appears to be interested in an ANSI125 layout.

As for the WKL mods, I have put some thoughts of making removable wood blocks that can be secured to the plate for WKL options, but that would be a borrowed concept from the KMAC ^^;
However, I can easily provide different top plate options for those who wants them WKL or HHKB-style layouts =)

Way outside my price range, but they do look nice. Myself, I have a phantom that I'm using caseless -- just laying the bare PCB on my lap for gaming. I plan on building a 7-bit layout phantom next, and having a case of some form would be very nice.

Again I'm poor, I'm sorta planning on cutting a section of plywood, gluing some molding that will let the PCB in but stop at the plate ... and figure some way to secure the plate to the plywood. Probably very long woodscrews. Yes you can stop wincing now I'm done.

Good luck with your wood endeavors!

With softer woods, you'll have to be sure you won't be reopening the case all too often. My teak prototype case lose its bite pretty quickly.
But I reckon it should be fine if you leave it be once it's assembled.
I wish you good luck with your wood project as well, and thank you for the support

I quite like the design. I quite like the teak look (without the staining). Is it possible that such a case can be offered without staining but with a lovely coat of lacquer. Could it possible even be slightly.... cheaper? 

A case from teak could be slightly cheaper than rosewood. Unfortunately however, it is not quite possible with the current case design as teak is not sufficiently hard, I’m afraid ^^;

Nice case. IF you open a GB, please let me know.

Thank you. Will drop a PM once I get this going =)

Oh man, that's gorgeous. I told myself I wasn't going to let myself make this an expensive hobby, but I think this is too amazing to pass up.

They say your wallet will never be safe when you hang around here =) But a keyboard guru once point out to me that this hobby is comparatively less expensive than others
And thank you for your interest.

[LechnerDE]

Thanks for the update!

Looking forward to the finished product 

[pasph]

Great to hear you again.
Waiting for next news

[ControlledBurn]

Sorry to hear about your setbacks, but glad to hear you're still trying to move this forward!

[3vitor]

Really interested in this TKL case. I'll match all my room.

[jackalope]

Really beautiful, only concern would be the wooden feet, would the size be standard to say that of a filco for easy replacement/swap.

[drrtyrokka]

Any news on this? I am really interested in this one, please let me know whats the current status.
Is there any possibility that we can get the CAD files, if you should abandon the project?
I'm thinking about manufacturing myself.